Clear and simplified part replacement video. It can be very difficult to turn that 1-1/16” nut sometimes (especially with limited space), however you made it look like it was no sweat.
I just replaced this, along with the EGR Control/Vacuum Solenoid and the DPFE sensor. My 2008 Escape has 150K miles on it and the vacuum hoses were at it their life-end. They were all crumbling into dust. Ford used to sell the harness with all these (same diameter) but they discontinued it. There are no aftermarket assemblies available. So, I removed the harness and laid it flat on the workbench, on a large paper towel to catch the rubber dust, so I could keep the direction of the attachments aimed correctly. Then I painstakingly replaced each one carefully. This was not hard to do but it was time-consuming. Just pay close attention when you remove the harness because it passes through a tunnel, close to the firewall and it is a bear to get it back through.
Excellent video, camera work, lighting and description! I agree with the magnets. I have an assortment of them, along with magnetic dishes for screws, nuts and bolts.
@@MattStephensRich I even have a pencil size magnet with a flexible goose-neck that can go around corners. Ask me why I have it. I always have to learn the hard way.
There should have been a gasket in between the valve and the plate. I just did this repair myself my gasket was missing from the new valve I figured it didn’t need one wrong would not idle correctly at low idle called auto parts they said it should have come with a new gasket. Purchased a new gasket and now it runs fine. Was actually trying to find out if I must have a mechanic clear the code to get engine light to stay off ?
Worth a shot to have the mechanic reset the code. Interesting to hear - neither the original nor replacement valves had gaskets, and no engine codes on this side.
@@MattStephensRich thats good to hear just thought I’d mention it if you were having the same problem I was having. You may want to check to make sure it’s not supposed to have as that gets extremely hot. Mine is now reading as a stored code and Im thinking it my only be able to be cleared by a mechanic. Im in California and need to smog it , they won’t even test it with the engine light on
Yeah I don’t really know what to tell you. There wasn’t any gasket on the original EGR valve, nor was there one issued with the replacement part. 🤷🏼♂️
@@isoSw1fty Yes, 2005-2006 models came with a non-ferrous metal gasket. Sometimes with heat and pressure this metal gasket will basically bind with the metal body of the egr valve mounting surface.
Thanks for replying Matt I also replaced the EGR manifold that helped a lot but it still stalling they took the catalytic converter off my car and put a straight pipe and I think that has all to do with it I think I’m gonna put the catalytic converter back on
Great video. Thank you For a 2006 ford escape hybrid 2.3l, the engine light is on and "service emission sys" message. What is the most likely cause for that message? And what is the solution? Is the problem caused by the EGR valve? If yes, will changing the EGR valve as you have shown fix the issue Thank you
Not sure if this problem has been fixed, but here we go. So, the warning you are/were receiving should not be ignored. However, the actual problem causing this warning can vary vastly, from a loose/non-sealing screw on gas cap to something as complicated as the wiring for a purge solenoid. Mechanic is suggested. Others on UA-cam and other forums may be of assistance if you are having obvious (easily describable) symptoms.
That’s apart of the evaporative line, providing the airflow connection from the crank case. You do want to be sure you’re getting a good seal, and might require going to the dealer if there’s bigger damage interfering.
@@dawnscott3370 I'm 6 months late, but on my 2001 with a V6 engine it's in the same location as this video. Look for the tranny dip stick, should be near that.
@@mr.wines-uk May be worth taking to a mechanic to give another ear and set of eyes on the engine as it runs. I did the EGR and IAC valve at the same time on this engine, which did improve overall idle and run smoothness.
I’d recommend whacking away at it with some brake clean and good old pipe cleaners to free/remove debris. Even if it is dirty, also bear in mind that so long as you aren’t getting engine codes or noticing change in idle speed/performance/etc. - it doesn’t need to be squeaky clean, unless apparent no positive pressure can get through.
The valve didn’t have a gasket to start, and the new valve didn’t come with one either. There was no check engine light with this, it was ultimately in the effort to address a engine stall symptom at idle.
@@MattStephensRich Strange not having a gasket. I've just replaced the EGR valve to fix an engine check light. Escape 3.0 V6. The new valve came with a gasket and the original valve also had a gasket. It seems odd to have two mating surfaces without a gasket.
@@PhilUKNet Indeed - promise everything you see shot in the video is both the original EGR coming off and new EGR going on. If you're indeed in the UK, it could be a difference in part spec for American vs. British? In some ways, the mounting bracket used for the bolts *does* act as a gasket/washer to a certain extent.
It can definitely be a part of the cause, especially if the oil is passing through the EGR and being burned in the cylinder. Ultimately though, there is a lot that can play into poor gas mileage.
i just replaced EGR valve, which didn't come with a gasket, so reused existing... the car has a low kazoo sound when i accelerate slightly from EGR area. anyone ever have this happen?
Umm im driving a 2002 ford escape and the problem is when i put it in Reverse or Drive it won’t accelerate, when it accelerate sometimes its having trouble
I have a 2003 Ford Escape. I work on it myself and you are by far the best teacher! Do you work strickly on Fords? I'm a Ford gal but I know other do it yourselfers that would love to subscribe to you sight. Thanks so much!
Although the 2008 Escape has the Gen 2 Body, it still has the Gen 1 engine. The 2009 Escape got new engines and transmissions. I think Ford just wanted to use up the old inventory in the first year of the Gen 2 body. Weird. I have the 2008 Escape 3.0 and I prefer the Gen 1 engine. It has fewer complaints than the updated one.
I would also clean MAF sensor and Throttle Body with CRC spray cleaner, NOTE! There are 2 separate cleaners of those - for MAF and for Throttle, do not mix. Try as well a good fuel system cleaner like Royal Purple, it goes in gas tank, fill it up and drive...Walmart has and it's on Amazon too... hope this helps ✌
@@MattStephensRich fair enough. I replaced mine 3 days ago and it came with a gasket as did all the other units I priced out. I guess it always depends
This guy has no idea what an egr valve actually does. Quit watching at that erroneous explanation, he is no professional auto tech, advise you don't watch or maybe on mute
And just in case any one including this youtuber wants to know .......it's not not exhaust gases sent to "Be recombusted" For better efficiency. It Has already been burnt and is free of oxygen this Oxygen this gas is sent into the intake to choke out the combustion flames and keep the heat below 2500ﾟ so let's not to produce nitric oxides . Does not help with efficiency It does not burn it is the opposite it chokes out the fire to keep it and in a temp range where nitrogen oxide is not formed.
Thank you. You helped me double my MPG and now have a clean idle and better performance all around.
Glad it helped!
Clear and simplified part replacement video. It can be very difficult to turn that 1-1/16” nut sometimes (especially with limited space), however you made it look like it was no sweat.
Lubrication and leverage always help if it's being stubborn! Clearance can definitely be a premium in these moments. :)
I just replaced this, along with the EGR Control/Vacuum Solenoid and the DPFE sensor. My 2008 Escape has 150K miles on it and the vacuum hoses were at it their life-end. They were all crumbling into dust. Ford used to sell the harness with all these (same diameter) but they discontinued it. There are no aftermarket assemblies available.
So, I removed the harness and laid it flat on the workbench, on a large paper towel to catch the rubber dust, so I could keep the direction of the attachments aimed correctly. Then I painstakingly replaced each one carefully. This was not hard to do but it was time-consuming. Just pay close attention when you remove the harness because it passes through a tunnel, close to the firewall and it is a bear to get it back through.
Great work on the harnesses!
Excellent video, camera work, lighting and description!
I agree with the magnets. I have an assortment of them, along with magnetic dishes for screws, nuts and bolts.
They’re awesome, those magnets.
@@MattStephensRich I even have a pencil size magnet with a flexible goose-neck that can go around corners. Ask me why I have it. I always have to learn the hard way.
@@boomerguy9935 hah indeed!
There should have been a gasket in between the valve and the plate. I just did this repair myself my gasket was missing from the new valve I figured it didn’t need one wrong would not idle correctly at low idle called auto parts they said it should have come with a new gasket. Purchased a new gasket and now it runs fine. Was actually trying to find out if I must have a mechanic clear the code to get engine light to stay off ?
Worth a shot to have the mechanic reset the code. Interesting to hear - neither the original nor replacement valves had gaskets, and no engine codes on this side.
@@MattStephensRich thats good to hear just thought I’d mention it if you were having the same problem I was having. You may want to check to make sure it’s not supposed to have as that gets extremely hot. Mine is now reading as a stored code and Im thinking it my only be able to be cleared by a mechanic. Im in California and need to smog it , they won’t even test it with the engine light on
Yeah I don’t really know what to tell you. There wasn’t any gasket on the original EGR valve, nor was there one issued with the replacement part. 🤷🏼♂️
@@MattStephensRich mine came with a nickle(I think) gasket and it is sandwiched in between the egr valve and the bolt system
@@isoSw1fty Yes, 2005-2006 models came with a non-ferrous metal gasket. Sometimes with heat and pressure this metal gasket will basically bind with the metal body of the egr valve mounting surface.
Thanks for replying Matt I also replaced the EGR manifold that helped a lot but it still stalling they took the catalytic converter off my car and put a straight pipe and I think that has all to do with it I think I’m gonna put the catalytic converter back on
hope you're back in working shape!
Nope!
Great video. Thank you
For a 2006 ford escape hybrid 2.3l, the engine light is on and "service emission sys" message. What is the most likely cause for that message? And what is the solution? Is the problem caused by the EGR valve? If yes, will changing the EGR valve as you have shown fix the issue
Thank you
Not sure if this problem has been fixed, but here we go. So, the warning you are/were receiving should not be ignored. However, the actual problem causing this warning can vary vastly, from a loose/non-sealing screw on gas cap to something as complicated as the wiring for a purge solenoid. Mechanic is suggested. Others on UA-cam and other forums may be of assistance if you are having obvious (easily describable) symptoms.
Is replacing the egr valve preventive maintenance or do I wait until it goes out ?
Thanks! John
Indeed is preventative maintenance, and worth doing ahead of the engine acting up!
Can you tell me what size is the other two bolts holding the other piece on to the intake
Sorry don't have the car anymore!
10mm
10mm
Hey buddy, my Escape 2006 is trowing out some oil thrue the oil cap, is that because this EGR valve?
Back pressure could be it!
You shoud've put some antiseize on tube' connection. 🤔🛠
Good tip!
What’s the copper colored metal tube that connects the EGR to the intake? My gasket is fucked and I don’t know what it’s called
That’s apart of the evaporative line, providing the airflow connection from the crank case. You do want to be sure you’re getting a good seal, and might require going to the dealer if there’s bigger damage interfering.
Where do I find a replacement egr for my 05 mazda tribute
Check with your local auto parts store!
@matt SR Thanks for the reply I ended up finding one, my only issue now is getting that dam bottom bolt off its not budging at all
I had to replace my tube and there is a little play down at the exhaust manifold nut... Is this to allow for heat expansion or is this a problem?
It absolutely could be a factor!
Would this can cause misfire as well ?
Unlikely, that would usually be more engine-specific.
Thanks for the video! changed it without a hitch.
Glad it helped!
I have a 2001 Ford Escape is there more than one egr valve
Nope, just the one
@@MattStephensRich where exactly is it located on a 2001.
@@dawnscott3370 I'm 6 months late, but on my 2001 with a V6 engine it's in the same location as this video. Look for the tranny dip stick, should be near that.
Fitted a new one because the car blew a hole in the side of it, now the new one has blown a hole in it . Any ideas?
Stop blowing holes! 😜 it may be a restriction issue elsewhere in the system. Is the engine running ok otherwise?
@@MattStephensRich was running lumpy on tick over until a new egr valve was fitted. Back to a lumpy engine again now the new one has blown
@@mr.wines-uk May be worth taking to a mechanic to give another ear and set of eyes on the engine as it runs. I did the EGR and IAC valve at the same time on this engine, which did improve overall idle and run smoothness.
Bad catalytic converter. Pieces of the convertor are moving around internally, causing too much pressure. Can actually cause exhaust leaks aswell.
The metallic pipe from egr to the engine is pretty much clogged on my car. Is there an easy way to clean it or is it easier to buy a new one?
I’d recommend whacking away at it with some brake clean and good old pipe cleaners to free/remove debris.
Even if it is dirty, also bear in mind that so long as you aren’t getting engine codes or noticing change in idle speed/performance/etc. - it doesn’t need to be squeaky clean, unless apparent no positive pressure can get through.
@@MattStephensRich Thanks, I’ll just remove debris 👍🏼
Let us know how it goes!
@@MattStephensRich Will do. Still waiting my spare parts arriving from USA. Here in Northern Europe it is impossible to find some parts.
Did replacing the IAC and EGR valves resolve your intermittent stall when coming to a stop issue?
It did! The car also ends up having troubles with the cooling system, but this helps with getting a solid years worth of operation.
No gasket between the valve and the plate? Are you replacing this to fix an EGR check engine light?
The valve didn’t have a gasket to start, and the new valve didn’t come with one either. There was no check engine light with this, it was ultimately in the effort to address a engine stall symptom at idle.
@@MattStephensRich Strange not having a gasket. I've just replaced the EGR valve to fix an engine check light. Escape 3.0 V6. The new valve came with a gasket and the original valve also had a gasket. It seems odd to have two mating surfaces without a gasket.
@@PhilUKNet Indeed - promise everything you see shot in the video is both the original EGR coming off and new EGR going on. If you're indeed in the UK, it could be a difference in part spec for American vs. British? In some ways, the mounting bracket used for the bolts *does* act as a gasket/washer to a certain extent.
@@MattStephensRich I'm not doubting you, but it just seems odd! There must be a good reason.
@@PhilUKNet definitely weird!
Does a bad egr valve cause the truck to burn a lot of gas and run rich? I’m idling at 1,000 rpm in park. I get 100 miles to a half gallon. I need help
It can definitely be a part of the cause, especially if the oil is passing through the EGR and being burned in the cylinder. Ultimately though, there is a lot that can play into poor gas mileage.
Bad EGR can definitely cause it since it can cause the engine to think it's running lean, so the car tells the fuel pump to burn more gas
Lol love how yours just unscrews. I had to get the penetrant and jam a screw driver in there to wedge it out.
I too was surprised lol
i just replaced EGR valve, which didn't come with a gasket, so reused existing... the car has a low kazoo sound when i accelerate slightly from EGR area. anyone ever have this happen?
Would recommend double checking tightness of the bolts, and could try again without the gasket to see if the sound goes away.
My air valve sensor is facing the other way. Out from the engine instead of in towards it.
You most likely have a different sized engine
Mines the same earlier models its different
Why in the world did he not put the replacement gasket in as well ?
Gasket wasn’t included with the kit.
Umm im driving a 2002 ford escape and the problem is when i put it in Reverse or Drive it won’t accelerate, when it accelerate sometimes its having trouble
Great thing to take to your mechanic!
@@MattStephensRich i dont have a mechanic
I have a 2003 Ford Escape. I work on it myself and you are by far the best teacher! Do you work strickly on Fords? I'm a Ford gal but I know other do it yourselfers that would love to subscribe to you sight. Thanks so much!
Glad you enjoy it!
Does this work on a 2008 escape
For the 3L V6 yes! Same Duratec engine.
Although the 2008 Escape has the Gen 2 Body, it still has the Gen 1 engine. The 2009 Escape got new engines and transmissions. I think Ford just wanted to use up the old inventory in the first year of the Gen 2 body. Weird. I have the 2008 Escape 3.0 and I prefer the Gen 1 engine. It has fewer complaints than the updated one.
I replaced egr on 2001 Ford Escape and it still doing the same thing. I feel like it’s going to stall
Can you help with any suggestions please
If it’s still stalling, you could do the IAC valve (have a separate video for that). Ultimately, could be good to take to mechanic for diagnostic.
I would also clean MAF sensor and Throttle Body with CRC spray cleaner, NOTE! There are 2 separate cleaners of those - for MAF and for Throttle, do not mix. Try as well a good fuel system cleaner like Royal Purple, it goes in gas tank, fill it up and drive...Walmart has and it's on Amazon too... hope this helps ✌
We have the same color and all twins 😎
twinsies!
Matt are you there? Please help
Me
Is yours a 4 or 6 cylinder
6 cylinder
I think you forgot the gasket
Gasket didn’t come with this unit!
@@MattStephensRich fair enough. I replaced mine 3 days ago and it came with a gasket as did all the other units I priced out. I guess it always depends
Thanks,so helpful..
Glad it was helpful!
you are not to smart, sorry for your lost!!
Thanks... ?
This guy has no idea what an egr valve actually does. Quit watching at that erroneous explanation, he is no professional auto tech, advise you don't watch or maybe on mute
And just in case any one including this youtuber wants to know .......it's not not exhaust gases sent to "Be recombusted" For better efficiency. It Has already been burnt and is free of oxygen this Oxygen this gas is sent into the intake to choke out the combustion flames and keep the heat below 2500ﾟ so let's not to produce nitric oxides . Does not help with efficiency It does not burn it is the opposite it chokes out the fire to keep it and in a temp range where nitrogen oxide is not formed.
Oh? I mean, did I swap the EGR Valve or not?
pos, pos pos fix or repair daily.