I would love to see more technical teaching videos that are as good as this one. UA-cam has done a great service in making no nonsense videos available and best stay out of anything that cannot be quantified. Thanks to Technics Haus.
Thanks for this . I have watched it a few times now and it has helped a lot. I am intrigued at how you have removed the bearings , they seem so fragile. I was wondering if they are glued or press fit. Online I found a mini bearing puller but its very expensive. On UA-cam there is a guy repairing fishing reels using a nice little tool that works like reverse tweezers. I have some damaged ones to play with. You seem to have it down. It is a pleasure and an education to watch you work. 🙏❤️🙏
Once you've made it to the 10:00 minute mark with the tonearm tube/upper assembly removed from the base, would it be possible to remove/replace the headshell socket without the need to remove the tube itself from the bearings? I have one arm with a corroded tonearm socket that, while works fine (it does not rotates smoothly), I would like to replace with a flawless socket.
What's wrong with you and your UA-cam generation? You take everything for granted or what FFS. Here, I'm sharing some specific details which are not all covered in here and all you do is rant? You could have simply asked kindly for the part I didn't cover and I would have replied to you (even with a follow-up video)
@@technicshaus late reply but I just saw this; I meant no ill will at all! I think I was just frustrated at the time, but I didn't mean to be rude. I do appreciate your videos. Thanks for understanding :)
Sorry do you know any place where i can order only pillow? I bought a second hand 1210 mk2, and the top pillow had a hit... if i screw it proper it has issue... sorry for my english. And one more thing how do you remove the pillow without any demage? Thx... and awesome video, helped a lot. ;)
Hi thanks! First check the "Tonearm Lift Assembly" (part n. SFPRT18201K1) by pushing it up and down, sometimes it gets stuck when it's not used over a long period of time, same goes for the "Oil Damper". It's rarely the spring that's the issue here. My guess would probably be the "Oil Damper" (part n. SFPJL18202A1) (check at 19:37), it's usually this part that gets stuck in a certain position or there is no more lube inside the cylinder. Try to to free this part and check for smooth movement. If it stays stuck or moves too freely you'll need to open it, clean it and lube it with silicone oil (between those range of viscosities 100000cst~300000cst). If you don't wanna bother, you could buy a new part. Good news is that you don't have to disassemble the whole tonearm for this operation. Bad news is that you must use that specific range of silicone oil viscosity if you want that smooth vertical movement when you raise or lower the tonearm. Hope it helped. Cheers
Hi amigo, I would like to know if I can use a technics 1200 tonearm bearing pivot screw on my numark ttx1 tonearm because one pivot screw is missing, I just see on ebay that kind of screw but they are of technics, I hope you undesrtand me, saludos..
Haus I had a problem with one of my tonearms not moving properly with anti skate although I did not have skipping issues. After watching another you tube video I decided in haste to loosen the top screw slightly in tonearm gimble and then just re-tightened until there was no play! Have I screwed it up? Still seems to be playing ok but not moving towards centre spindle with anti skate? Your soldering skills are next level by the way!
The gimbal bearing screws should never be messed with. They are calibrated with serious precision from factory. Really the only option is to replace the tone arm assembly P-AM18201K1. Once you start unscrewing you will never get it within spec of how it should be. If you had anti skate issue, really you should of taken it for a service from a reputable place. Whenever i see ones that have been painted different colours - i know for a fact they wont have been calibrated to oem spec when putting them back together. I would advise take both for a service. I did replace both assemblies on mine, which i did myself, as i purchased mine second hand and they were wobbly and just awful. Shame technics no longer make these parts - which is why prices are ridiculous. Luckily i managed to get for £70 each back when stock levels were not as depleted as they are now... I believe £300 for each is the going rate now!
My new Technics SL-1210GR's tonearm lift makes a door squeaking like clicking noise on lift and descent. I can temporally eliminate the clicking sound by moistening a Q-tip with distilled water and wiping it on the lift. What's wrong here?
I think you need to push it out. I tried it on my arm and it worked because the screw was spinning. I re-inserted it by pressure. I'm trying to calibrate it but from the video it seems easy but it is not at all without the tork key. Either you are very lucky or you need a service center that knows how to calibrate the arms of the turntable. There are many videos on youtube but no one explains neither the reassembly sequence nor the sequence of screws and fixing. If anyone knows how to do it, come forward !!! Thanks in advance
I figured it out, at least on a recent SL-1200 MK2 turntable that I am restoring. There is a small circle perpendicular to the screw, which I believe to contain some sort of glue/adhesive. I doused it with nail polish remover and with a curved pick I slowly removed the adhesive. I also doused both ends of the screw with the nail polish remover. The screw is in itself not a real screw at all and just sits inside the slotted outer ring with no threading. I rounded off parts of the slots thinking I needed to "unlock" the outer ring first to remove the inner screw, but it was locked in place due to the adhesive and not the screw threads, as again there are none. Hope that made any sense. Let me know if you need further details/explanation.
Be careful with that screw! This one is not screwed on the pivot, it is press-fitted and glued. This screw does not have threads. So in order to remove it, tap multiple times carefully with a small flat head object on that screw (not on the nut just the screw). You'll see, it will come off and then remove the nut. Sometimes, the nut comes too also.
Nice video but i belive it is impossible or so close that we can calibrate the bearings of tonearms without tork key! reassembly it's easy but calibrate tonearms without NO FACTORY SETTING is like hell! I entered the second day of attempts .... before it was enough to change the arm for a fair amount, instead now that they sell the spare by weight in gold, you have to swear for months with the fucking screw!!!!
I would love to see more technical teaching videos that are as good as this one. UA-cam has done a great service in making no nonsense videos available and best stay out of anything that cannot be quantified. Thanks to Technics Haus.
Great video, now I know enough to take it to my vintage repair tech for service. They earn their $$ and I gladly pay it to be done right.
Poetry.......just poetry.....
The one thing I wanted to see and you disassembled it and reassembled it off camera, The gimbal pivot that's held in with the grub screw,
Thanks for this . I have watched it a few times now and it has helped a lot. I am intrigued at how you have removed the bearings , they seem so fragile. I was wondering if they are glued or press fit. Online I found a mini bearing puller but its very expensive. On UA-cam there is a guy repairing fishing reels using a nice little tool that works like reverse tweezers. I have some damaged ones to play with. You seem to have it down. It is a pleasure and an education to watch you work. 🙏❤️🙏
Once you've made it to the 10:00 minute mark with the tonearm tube/upper assembly removed from the base, would it be possible to remove/replace the headshell socket without the need to remove the tube itself from the bearings? I have one arm with a corroded tonearm socket that, while works fine (it does not rotates smoothly), I would like to replace with a flawless socket.
great video many thanks. With what the parts of tonerarm should be lubrificated
What is the spanner size what you use for tonearm locking ring pivot screw, is that #10
Are you kidding me? The ONLY part of this video i needed to see, your hands are out the frame of the camera! 🙏🏻✨
What's wrong with you and your UA-cam generation? You take everything for granted or what FFS. Here, I'm sharing some specific details which are not all covered in here and all you do is rant? You could have simply asked kindly for the part I didn't cover and I would have replied to you (even with a follow-up video)
@@technicshaus late reply but I just saw this; I meant no ill will at all! I think I was just frustrated at the time, but I didn't mean to be rude. I do appreciate your videos. Thanks for understanding :)
Wow that's a whole lot of engineering!
Nice! Someone in a forum told me that its close to impossible to recalibrate the tone arm bearings as good as from the factory. Is that true?
Sorry do you know any place where i can order only pillow? I bought a second hand 1210 mk2, and the top pillow had a hit... if i screw it proper it has issue... sorry for my english. And one more thing how do you remove the pillow without any demage? Thx... and awesome video, helped a lot. ;)
Hello.. what size u shaped screwdriver did you use to remove the toen arm from the swivel base? Thanks
YES SIR !!!!!! I WAS TRYING TO FIGURE OUT HOW TO REMOVE THE TUBE WHERE THE WEIGHT REST.....LOL... GOT IT !!!! TANX !!!
Thank you for your very very usefull video
Be VERY careful assembling tonearm pivots, these need to be calibrated to
do you know how to calibrate it, id like to know, cause mine has tracking issue.
I read somewhere else that if you take the screws out of the pivot gimbal there are ball bearings in there but there did not appear to be any here?
For all those wondering; That converts to = .0001 Nm which equates to .0009 inch lbs
Are you absolutely sure about that 100 µNm value? The industrial specialized tools I can find go to about 0.1 Nm, which is 1000 times more.
At what time in the video are the tonearm pivots?
Is the antiskate set correctly in this video? I thought when the dial is set at 0 it should be touching the shaft from tonearm? This is opposite?
Thank you for this!!
Great vid! I have a problem... my tonearm doesn't want to lift. Should I replace the spring?
Hi thanks!
First check the "Tonearm Lift Assembly" (part n. SFPRT18201K1) by pushing it up and down, sometimes it gets stuck when it's not used over a long period of time, same goes for the "Oil Damper". It's rarely the spring that's the issue here.
My guess would probably be the "Oil Damper" (part n. SFPJL18202A1) (check at 19:37), it's usually this part that gets stuck in a certain position or there is no more lube inside the cylinder. Try to to free this part and check for smooth movement. If it stays stuck or moves too freely you'll need to open it, clean it and lube it with silicone oil (between those range of viscosities 100000cst~300000cst). If you don't wanna bother, you could buy a new part. Good news is that you don't have to disassemble the whole tonearm for this operation. Bad news is that you must use that specific range of silicone oil viscosity if you want that smooth vertical movement when you raise or lower the tonearm.
Hope it helped. Cheers
I got 2 technics Sl1200 MK5 which require extensive cleaning on the tonearm, watching this make me scared on even starting 😆
Hi amigo, I would like to know if I can use a technics 1200 tonearm bearing pivot screw on my numark ttx1 tonearm because one pivot screw is missing, I just see on ebay that kind of screw but they are of technics, I hope you undesrtand me, saludos..
Gracias!
Haus I had a problem with one of my tonearms not moving properly with anti skate although I did not have skipping issues. After watching another you tube video I decided in haste to loosen the top screw slightly in tonearm gimble and then just re-tightened until there was no play! Have I screwed it up? Still seems to be playing ok but not moving towards centre spindle with anti skate? Your soldering skills are next level by the way!
The gimbal bearing screws should never be messed with. They are calibrated with serious precision from factory. Really the only option is to replace the tone arm assembly P-AM18201K1. Once you start unscrewing you will never get it within spec of how it should be. If you had anti skate issue, really you should of taken it for a service from a reputable place.
Whenever i see ones that have been painted different colours - i know for a fact they wont have been calibrated to oem spec when putting them back together.
I would advise take both for a service. I did replace both assemblies on mine, which i did myself, as i purchased mine second hand and they were wobbly and just awful. Shame technics no longer make these parts - which is why prices are ridiculous.
Luckily i managed to get for £70 each back when stock levels were not as depleted as they are now... I believe £300 for each is the going rate now!
Is that a special tool head @13:05?
You've saved my life :-) thank you !
My new Technics SL-1210GR's tonearm lift makes a door squeaking like clicking noise on lift and descent. I can temporally eliminate the clicking sound by moistening a Q-tip with distilled water and wiping it on the lift. What's wrong here?
I think it needs some oil lubrication
Great video
Thanks for this
13:16 What is the tool required to disassemble and assemble to tonearm pivots?
It's a flat head screw cut in the middle
Technics Haus How did you cut the notch on the flat head screw driver?
@@altab5614 I cut it with a Dremel cutting disk
I wish you wouldn't have speed up the 2nd part. putting it back together, is what i really needed to see slowly
You can play the video at 0.25 speed if you want to
@@dirkvantroyen9170 How do i control the speed on a video?
@@1995themike It's under settings
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!
Ciao come hai fatto a togliere i due piccoli cuscinetti al minuto 15:28?
At 15:00 how do you unscrew the screw?
I think you need to push it out. I tried it on my arm and it worked because the screw was spinning. I re-inserted it by pressure. I'm trying to calibrate it but from the video it seems easy but it is not at all without the tork key. Either you are very lucky or you need a service center that knows how to calibrate the arms of the turntable. There are many videos on youtube but no one explains neither the reassembly sequence nor the sequence of screws and fixing.
If anyone knows how to do it, come forward !!! Thanks in advance
I figured it out, at least on a recent SL-1200 MK2 turntable that I am restoring. There is a small circle perpendicular to the screw, which I believe to contain some sort of glue/adhesive. I doused it with nail polish remover and with a curved pick I slowly removed the adhesive. I also doused both ends of the screw with the nail polish remover. The screw is in itself not a real screw at all and just sits inside the slotted outer ring with no threading. I rounded off parts of the slots thinking I needed to "unlock" the outer ring first to remove the inner screw, but it was locked in place due to the adhesive and not the screw threads, as again there are none. Hope that made any sense. Let me know if you need further details/explanation.
does not show removing the 3 bolt, I was curious how should I do
Hi! What 3 bolts are you talking about?
Technics Haus thanks for the feedback, Yes one of the pivot bolts of the bearings, I could not identify in the video, how was the removal
You mean the left screw on the pivot, the one that I removed off camera?
Exactly that screw!
Be careful with that screw! This one is not screwed on the pivot, it is press-fitted and glued. This screw does not have threads. So in order to remove it, tap multiple times carefully with a small flat head object on that screw (not on the nut just the screw). You'll see, it will come off and then remove the nut. Sometimes, the nut comes too also.
8 dislikes? Why they must can do this better or something🤔😂😂😂😂
Nice video but i belive it is impossible or so close that we can calibrate the bearings of tonearms without tork key! reassembly it's easy but calibrate tonearms without NO FACTORY SETTING is like hell! I entered the second day of attempts .... before it was enough to change the arm for a fair amount, instead now that they sell the spare by weight in gold, you have to swear for months with the fucking screw!!!!
Track ID ? 🥵
Great, thank you!
I think some nice Jazzy music would’ve gone good here, something that doesn’t keep me on fucking edge the entire video🫣😅