In my opinion, this is the most wonderful mechanism ever created by man. I admire this thing. The Breguet tourbillon, Saturn-5, the Egyptian pyramids, Northrop B-2 Spirit and the AK-47 go far behind, and Technics SL12** Mk2-5 is confidently ahead of them all in my ranking. Thanks for this video.
You get exactly what you pay for , for the exception of the MK7, the decks are works of art , I'd love to see the tare down of a sl 1200 G . Exceptionally good video. 👍
Nice work, I know replacing the led’s to blue is fashionable now but I prefer the dark red strobe and the green Quartz lock. But that is just a matter of taste. What is the transparant lube you use?
how much time do the restauration of THREE sl 1210 mk2 will take for two mk2 lovers ? one bro is a pro, i'm an absolute beginner. the lucky owner, that wants to learn and help. i want to keep it as original as possible, no gimmixxs and no fx. if it's possible to improve sound quality, that would be accepted. but i'm not interested in any other features 'cause the mk2 are ICONS. and if there ain't no parts to find, is it possible to use parts from NON mk2 decks ? like mk3, mk5, mk7 ! please help and thanxxs.
Hello Technics Haus. I have two questions: 1. Minute 7:53 what type of oil do you use forn cleaning and lubrication of the pitch fader? I can only read "2000" is that cst viscosity? is it some kind of silicone dielectrical oil? Please help me out. 2. My turntable has a weird problem with erratic speed. watching some videos I came across that its due to a pitch fader issue. is it possible that the dirt is making some kind of resistence? Under my strobe light I can see the alignment go crazy Please! Thanks in advance!
Hi, I use Silicone Oil with viscosity of 5000-6000 cst but just for the metal case, for the sliding feel, to regain that original feel in your fingers. This is for the mechanical side of things. For the carbon resistive track of the pitch you would use something like DeOxit Faderlube F5, the idea is to put a thin coat of oil on top of that carbon track in order to prevent premature wear. This is for the electronical side of things, mechanical too.
Great Video I love this turntable BTW I have a Silver SL1200 MKII I noticed you put a Heatsink on the IC AN6680 chip, is it normal for the resistors right next to AN6680 to get HOT? In My 1200 MKII the resistor R201 and R213 reach temperatures of 118F and 132F respectively is that normal?
I did it with Scotchbrite (Green) and WD40 and went only in one direction (lateral). Do this very gently, don't use too much force. After that I polished the faceplate to erase the marks that Scotchbrite might have left
Hi. at 28:40 to what freq you set the VR301? in the manual it says to 262.08kHZ +/- 0.05kHz, but the manual also said that the pitch control VR302 needs to be set at 2.85-2.9kΩ. I calibrated my TT this way but from the platter dots the 6% is accurate, and the 3.3% is on the 2.5%pitch and the -3.3% is also on the -2.5%. thanks for your help
Thank you for reply, I’ve seen these vids from viperfrank and have tried several non-aggressive methods but the dots are still not shiny. I'll try sandpaper 400 or 600, wet.
be VERY wary of using the wrong grit sandpaper (speaking from experience). Lower grit will "clean" them quicker, but they'll also remove the shiny coating that original 1200 platters have. You'll never be able to get that back. I would try with much higher grit, if you're going to use sandpaper (1000 or more). Test on the side rim of the platter, and you'll see what I mean. Good luck!
All you need is Mother's Aluminum Mag Polish for cars. It will clean the platter and anything aluminum with hardly any effort. I used it on my pair of 27 year old 1200Mk2's that did not look dirty but when I applied the Mother's and wiped the platter with a microfiber cloth the platter looked brand new after about 10-15 minutes of work. You only need to apply very little polish.
1st : If you have an early generation MK2 the strobo light is dimmer than the late generation 2nd : Maybe you need to change all of your LEDs 3rd : Try changing the Q202 (2SD637) Transistor
Hi, Great video for us SL1210 users. I have a problem with one of mine in that when you press stop, it stops but then starts turning back and forth, everything else works fine. No one in my area fixes them so was wondering if it's something I can do or check. Any help would be great.
@@aramm7052 Hi. Thanks for the reply. I have had a look and the screw part is missing so I can't adjust it. Now found the part so will fit it asap. Thanks again for your help.
Hello, could you tell me, what kind of lubricant did you use in the pitch and the target lamp? and The RCA adapptation is a brand in the market? Where to buy it? Thanks a lot
Hi! The lubricant I used for the metal case and target lamp case are silicone oil based, there are a lot of viscosity so you might choose what suits you the best. The RCA adaptation is my creation, if you like to order one go to my facebook page and contact me there. Cheers
hI Grate Job, I have a Sony SP 333 and it's power up but unable to rotate the turntable, I cant find any one to repair it . Any idea is very much appreciate. Thank you.
Awesome video!!! Question. Why you connect the ground to the chassis instead of one of the negatives wires from the RCA? I been reading online and I'm still debating if self ground it or keep it original, I'm not a DJ I just like to listen the music.
Hi! I connect the ground to the chassis because the RCA's negative of your mixer or phono preamp are already connected together to the ground, it's called common ground. If you decide to leave your Technics ground cable, the ground is connected with the RCA's negative after anyway. In your setup I suggest to leave it stock if your turntable stays at home and if you use it to listen regularly to music.
Cool video, what components did you replace on the main board and why? I usually just clean the mainboard and test it, calibrate the pitch range, also add new thermal paste
Hi! Thanks. On the main board I replaced the resistors (R212, R213, R305, R401) to a higher value in order to obtain a not so bright/intense luminosity and to make it look cleaner, I didn't want to cut wires and put resistors in between. For the value of the resistors, it depends on the LED color and the luminosity you wanna get (higher value = less luminosity, low value = high luminisity). Hope it helped. Cheers
Thanks! I use resistors because I never had a problem with. I usually put 1.5K to 4K resistors, depends on the LED color and the brightness I want to achieve. You could also use (and I do too on some projects) an L7805CV +5V Regulator. Both methods work but with a voltage regulator we could say it's the "better/stable/safer way".
R212 : between 1KΩ to 10KΩ (original resistor is 150Ω) R213 : between 50KΩ to 200KΩ (original resistor is 1.2KΩ) Those are the ranges I work with for blue LEDs. For white LEDs, you might wanna use lower values. There is not a definitive answer, you have to find what works best for you. Even I too change time to times resistor values depending on the LED brand, type, size, millicandelas etc.
Hi, everyone, at 26:15 minutes some components are replaced to allow the blue LEDs to function correctly. Referring to the manual service which components are replaced? I should do the intervention in reverse or restore the LEDs to their original color.
As I use Blue LEDs, the luminosity/brightness is not the same as the Red LEDs. If you do only LED swipe without replacing resistors, you'll see the Blue LEDs will emit much brightness. For a better effect, I replaced the resistors of the ON/OFF Strobo lights (4x 5mm LEDs, R212, I used a 560ohms value), 33/45RPM (2x 3mm LEDs, R213, I used a 56kohms), Pitch Fader (1x 2x5mm LED, R305, I used a 6.8kohms), Pop-Up light (1x 3mm LED, R401, I used a 3kohms). You can play with the values to get the brightness you want to achieve. For a clean operation I replaced the resistors directly on the motherboard except for the Pop-Up light which is located on the Target light assembly.
Forgot to screw down the plate under the platter. And forgot to lubricate the shaft before putting back together. Raced through scenes making it impossible to see what you were doing. Hands in the way too often... Thumbs up for effort though.
hI Grate Job, I have a Sony SP 333 and it's power up but unable to rotate the turntable, I cant find any one to repair it . Any idea is very much appreciate. Thank you.
that music !!!! amazing it s great to see technics lovers are keeping these machines alive !
In my opinion, this is the most wonderful mechanism ever created by man. I admire this thing. The Breguet tourbillon, Saturn-5, the Egyptian pyramids, Northrop B-2 Spirit and the AK-47 go far behind, and Technics SL12** Mk2-5 is confidently ahead of them all in my ranking. Thanks for this video.
You forgot 90's toyota Helux
It's pretty close
I agree with you
Great vid. At first I was a bit annoyed at the sped up video and lack of dialogue, but the music really made it for me.
Yeah Full zen lol :D
@@bartk174 Shit, I thought he was fast! Didn't realize it's sped up.
This is my favorite
segment.
You get exactly what you pay for , for the exception of the MK7, the decks are works of art , I'd love to see the tare down of a sl 1200 G . Exceptionally good video. 👍
The most beautiful video about technics sl mk2 on UA-cam
Thanks
Amazing congrats I just got pair of sl mk2 and could not replace the RCA s
Hello ! thank you very much for this great video.
can you tell me which product is marked 2000 that you put on the pitch please? thank you so much
Nice work, I know replacing the led’s to blue is fashionable now but I prefer the dark red strobe and the green Quartz lock. But that is just a matter of taste. What is the transparant lube you use?
Thank you, I need to repair and replace some lights, your vidéo is my guide to do it !
It takes time and preparation for operation.
how much time do the restauration
of THREE sl 1210 mk2 will take
for two mk2 lovers ?
one bro is a pro, i'm an absolute beginner. the lucky owner, that wants to learn and help.
i want to keep it as original as possible, no gimmixxs and no fx.
if it's possible to improve sound quality, that would be accepted.
but i'm not interested in any other features 'cause the mk2 are ICONS.
and if there ain't no parts to find,
is it possible to use parts from NON
mk2 decks ? like mk3, mk5, mk7 !
please help and thanxxs.
Wow! Impressed. Thanks for the video!
It takes experience and
know how.
Hello Technics Haus. I have two questions: 1. Minute 7:53 what type of oil do you use forn cleaning and lubrication of the pitch fader? I can only read "2000" is that cst viscosity? is it some kind of silicone dielectrical oil? Please help me out. 2. My turntable has a weird problem with erratic speed. watching some videos I came across that its due to a pitch fader issue. is it possible that the dirt is making some kind of resistence? Under my strobe light I can see the alignment go crazy Please! Thanks in advance!
Hi, I use Silicone Oil with viscosity of 5000-6000 cst but just for the metal case, for the sliding feel, to regain that original feel in your fingers. This is for the mechanical side of things. For the carbon resistive track of the pitch you would use something like DeOxit Faderlube F5, the idea is to put a thin coat of oil on top of that carbon track in order to prevent premature wear. This is for the electronical side of things, mechanical too.
Amazing! This video is A piece of art. Especially with the good music. Well done and thanks
Perfect record, perfect video. Subscribed, liked, saved!
Great Video I love this turntable BTW
I have a Silver SL1200 MKII I noticed you put a Heatsink on the IC AN6680 chip, is it normal for the resistors right next to AN6680 to get HOT? In My 1200 MKII the resistor R201 and R213 reach temperatures of 118F and 132F respectively is that normal?
thank you for the video. Can you please describe how to clean the faceplate/cabinet? especially greasy stains
Very nice video, thanks to you I make mine like new ❤
Hi great video! Could you please tell me, how to clean the faceplate of a Sl1200mk2 ? The silver color turned to a yellow -silver color.
I did it with Scotchbrite (Green) and WD40 and went only in one direction (lateral). Do this very gently, don't use too much force. After that I polished the faceplate to erase the marks that Scotchbrite might have left
Would it be possible to make a turntable with everything but the tonearm? Possibly custom to where it’s just the platter and the pitch control???
Master sensei of technics
Hi. at 28:40 to what freq you set the VR301? in the manual it says to 262.08kHZ +/- 0.05kHz, but the manual also said that the pitch control VR302 needs to be set at 2.85-2.9kΩ. I calibrated my TT this way but from the platter dots the 6% is accurate, and the 3.3% is on the 2.5%pitch and the -3.3% is also on the -2.5%. thanks for your help
Thank you for this educational video.
Two questions:
How to clean the dots on the platter?
Is it possible to add a 78rpm function?
There are some videos on cleaning the platter by @viperfrank ... takes a bit of elbow grease, that's for sure
Thank you for reply,
I’ve seen these vids from viperfrank and have tried several non-aggressive methods but the dots are still not shiny. I'll try sandpaper 400 or 600, wet.
be VERY wary of using the wrong grit sandpaper (speaking from experience). Lower grit will "clean" them quicker, but they'll also remove the shiny coating that original 1200 platters have. You'll never be able to get that back. I would try with much higher grit, if you're going to use sandpaper (1000 or more). Test on the side rim of the platter, and you'll see what I mean. Good luck!
@Tony Jaksn great suggestion. I'll give that a shot on my next platter cleaning, which by the looks of it, needs to happen sooner than later!
All you need is Mother's Aluminum Mag Polish for cars. It will clean the platter and anything aluminum with hardly any effort. I used it on my pair of 27 year old 1200Mk2's that did not look dirty but when I applied the Mother's and wiped the platter with a microfiber cloth the platter looked brand new after about 10-15 minutes of work. You only need to apply very little polish.
What type of fluid and grease did You used for pitch fader, spindle and tonearm?
thank you for sharing this :)
Hello, thanks for this video, great stuff.
Do you know if there major differences with an MK5 interior?
Cheers
What is that stuff you are using for the pitch slider?
Technics Haus One question my strobe leds are super low on light barely visible compared to my other turntables? any idea what it could be
1st : If you have an early generation MK2 the strobo light is dimmer than the late generation
2nd : Maybe you need to change all of your LEDs
3rd : Try changing the Q202 (2SD637) Transistor
You'll need plenty of
time to put the turntable
back together.
Ready for the world. I wonder what it has experienced?
good video, what colors do you use of the pitch do you use to calibrate them?
Whats the grease you used for the pilot light ?
Could you do a similar video with the SLDZ turntable. One of mine is playing up & id like to take it apart & replace a few bits
no resistors or regulators on the on off and 33 45s if theres wich kind?thank you! following
Hi, @ min 30. you add a white paste. What paste is this? grtz
Thermal paste. You can use CPU paste for example...
Very impressive ! Respect !
you are using normal thermal paste for cpu?
Hi, Great video for us SL1210 users. I have a problem with one of mine in that when you press stop, it stops but then starts turning back and forth, everything else works fine. No one in my area fixes them so was wondering if it's something I can do or check. Any help would be great.
Marc Bates you need to adjust te brake, take a look on viperfrank videos
Try manipulating VR201 pot anti-clockwise while turntable off
@@juliantraja Thank you. I will check that out. :)
@@aramm7052 Thanks. I'll also check this after the other trying my other suggestion below. :)
@@aramm7052 Hi. Thanks for the reply. I have had a look and the screw part is missing so I can't adjust it. Now found the part so will fit it asap. Thanks again for your help.
Hello, could you tell me, what kind of lubricant did you use in the pitch and the target lamp? and The RCA adapptation is a brand in the market? Where to buy it? Thanks a lot
Hi! The lubricant I used for the metal case and target lamp case are silicone oil based, there are a lot of viscosity so you might choose what suits you the best. The RCA adaptation is my creation, if you like to order one go to my facebook page and contact me there. Cheers
hI Grate Job,
I have a Sony SP 333 and it's power up but unable to rotate the turntable, I cant find any one to repair it . Any idea is very much appreciate. Thank you.
Very cool
Loved it. 👍
Nice one !
Hi. Are you able to answer a question about one of your youtube video's? Thanks.
Awesome video!!! Question. Why you connect the ground to the chassis instead of one of the negatives wires from the RCA? I been reading online and I'm still debating if self ground it or keep it original, I'm not a DJ I just like to listen the music.
Hi! I connect the ground to the chassis because the RCA's negative of your mixer or phono preamp are already connected together to the ground, it's called common ground. If you decide to leave your Technics ground cable, the ground is connected with the RCA's negative after anyway. In your setup I suggest to leave it stock if your turntable stays at home and if you use it to listen regularly to music.
@@juliantraja thanks! Very helpful!
I can't cope with you mixing all them screws up.
A M A Z I N G
what s the multi meter u are using named ?
i need one like that aswell please could you tell me the model and Company name !!!?
What I use is called Multimetrix DMM220
In the black round plastic that screws the 2XRCA females and connects the wires of the head that I will find. (20:40)
Question. Where do I get the parts for the power supply and the rca connectors? Do you sell them?
Hi! Yes I do sell them on eBay www.ebay.fr/itm/184165984047
Cool video, what components did you replace on the main board and why? I usually just clean the mainboard and test it, calibrate the pitch range, also add new thermal paste
Hi! Thanks. On the main board I replaced the resistors (R212, R213, R305, R401) to a higher value in order to obtain a not so bright/intense luminosity and to make it look cleaner, I didn't want to cut wires and put resistors in between. For the value of the resistors, it depends on the LED color and the luminosity you wanna get (higher value = less luminosity, low value = high luminisity). Hope it helped. Cheers
Hi and thanks for video; why do you prefer resistor for stylus lamp (R401) instead of a voltage regulator?
Thanks! I use resistors because I never had a problem with. I usually put 1.5K to 4K resistors, depends on the LED color and the brightness I want to achieve. You could also use (and I do too on some projects) an L7805CV +5V Regulator. Both methods work but with a voltage regulator we could say it's the "better/stable/safer way".
to avoid too bright (eyepain), for blue or white LED, what resistors do you put for strobo (R212) and speed buttons (R213)?
R212 : between 1KΩ to 10KΩ (original resistor is 150Ω)
R213 : between 50KΩ to 200KΩ (original resistor is 1.2KΩ)
Those are the ranges I work with for blue LEDs. For white LEDs, you might wanna use lower values. There is not a definitive answer, you have to find what works best for you. Even I too change time to times resistor values depending on the LED brand, type, size, millicandelas etc.
Good luck!
Bravo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Once you have taken it
apart, it's not going to be
easy.
What kind of oil do you use ?
Very Nice!!!
You are awesome
Hi, everyone, at 26:15 minutes some components are replaced to allow the blue LEDs to function correctly. Referring to the manual service which components are replaced? I should do the intervention in reverse or restore the LEDs to their original color.
As I use Blue LEDs, the luminosity/brightness is not the same as the Red LEDs. If you do only LED swipe without replacing resistors, you'll see the Blue LEDs will emit much brightness. For a better effect, I replaced the resistors of the ON/OFF Strobo lights (4x 5mm LEDs, R212, I used a 560ohms value), 33/45RPM (2x 3mm LEDs, R213, I used a 56kohms), Pitch Fader (1x 2x5mm LED, R305, I used a 6.8kohms), Pop-Up light (1x 3mm LED, R401, I used a 3kohms). You can play with the values to get the brightness you want to achieve. For a clean operation I replaced the resistors directly on the motherboard except for the Pop-Up light which is located on the Target light assembly.
TOP!!!!
All of the parts are
disassembled.
Hi mate! I add heavy lubricant for pop-up target led but the speed is very fast, no progressive. Is there any trick for target go up slowly? Thx
use same silicone fluid as for tonearm lift 300000 or 600000 it will be slow and no pop.
@@vskhat Yes that's it, from 300000 cst and above you should see the difference in slow lifting
It's like working on your
car.
Working on a Technics turntable isn't a joke at
all.
the ground ?
I internally ground it
I break my arm help pls 😢
whats wrong with that beat? someone died or what?
Sir, take a break.
F**k this is so scary.
Forgot to screw down the plate under the platter. And forgot to lubricate the shaft before putting back together. Raced through scenes making it impossible to see what you were doing. Hands in the way too often... Thumbs up for effort though.
I'll do better next time, it's not as easy as one might think filming on what you work
Very upset music....
It's a matter of taste
hI Grate Job,
I have a Sony SP 333 and it's power up but unable to rotate the turntable, I cant find any one to repair it . Any idea is very much appreciate. Thank you.