Excellent work. Two suggestions: 1) use an old toothbrush to clean the dried up grease from the brass threads rather than a pick or screwdriver,. This will avoid damaging the threads, you, or something else if you slip. Second, WD-40 will leave a film (it contains fish oil). I would consider denatured alcohol for cleaning, which will evaporate completely to remove the dried up grease (it is safe enough for tape heads, so you likely have some around anyway.
I've had similar problems in the past , if you're not totally confident about dismantling your sl1200/10 , here's what I do to free up a seized up VTA I use a hairdryer with a slim nozzle to aim the heat to the seized area moving the hairdryer in and out so as not to over warm the plinth, whilst attempting to turn the VTA once it's warm you should start to feel a bit of movement. It always works for me , once free I lubricant the area with a watch oil which is very thin . Once completed give the VTA a turn once in a while. Hope this helps you.
You’re destined to repeat the seizing failure by using white lithium grease. Use synthetic silicone grease. I used it in 1978 on my Hitachi HT-460 tonearm height adjuster. To this day, it is smooth and turns easily! Time tested and proven!
@@octymocty132 synthetic grease is cheap and has proven its worth over time. Ceramic grease? How long has it been around? Do you have an example of its stability over 40 years?
Thanks Wolfman. About to dismember my 1200s and replace the diode number 89 or whatever. Don't really like the idea of flipping around my slider like that one video suggested.
Lithium is usually preferred for metal to metal but it can decay rubber and plastic. I’d go with a silicone in this case as well. PB blaster and WD-40 both make silicone sprays. Never guess when it comes to lubes. It still scares me people think WD-40 is a lube.
Thx for this video. Gave me the confidence to turn my old MK2 over and do this repair. Got them in 95. They are on loan with a friend but will be reclaiming to get back into scratching.
Wow Thanks! I own a SL1210 MK5 which I was unaware of. When I finally get it out of the box and set it up, I'll verify this. I really enjoy your laid back/humorous style to your videos. Hopefully the channel continues to gain traction and you can continue making videos..👍
Thanks for the informative video. Given the large number of SL-1200's out there I am sure plenty of people will benefit from this. I certainly wish my Rega had a simple, accurate adjustment mechanism like this! While the correct VTA adjustment on the SL-1200 is - as you say - an important factor is getting the best sound, manufacturing errors in stylus installation can still be an issue. The tone arm can look right while the stylus is still not positioned correctly. Still, the adjustment you explain, as well as the repair you go over, should help a lot.
I had the same problem. I put light lubricating oil around the top of the threaded portion and left it for two weeks. Then I repeated for another two weeks. After the fourth week the threaded portion could turn and, after a few back-and-forths it has been fine ever since. No need to strip anything down.
As a DJ of 30 years, I love the original grey 1200 mk 2. I'm out of the game now but I bought a brand new 1200 for playback use only. I'm using an Ortofon Blue cartridge. All the cleaning tips I know VTA ANTI-SKATE etc. I even had brackets mounted to my wall rather than sit the deck on a table on the floor to prevent skipping and other problems. I have set the tonearm using a protractor and digital scales etc. This deck will be working long after I'm gone.
the ones i have will sure work a lot after i just vanish, also worked with two SL-1200MKII for 35 years but i sold them completelly working with two concordes and the original cartridges and stylus they came with but i could only get 500€ ,this in 2000, now they have value before was just a working turntable but built like a tank with great engines
Great video, when you start tearing down the technics you really begin to see the quality of the components and just how much goes into one of these decks , you can see why the technics fan boys (and I'm one of them) rave about these players, having the sl1200 G , you really have to go along way to better the 1200s. Thanks again for your video.
@@TheMaxx111 the mk 2 is really that good, the GR is the closest, although completely reworked internally, apart from the classic dust cover , the G is something else in everyway. It has a weight approaching 40LB the top plate is a 1cm thick milled aluminium, straight out of the box, it doesn't really need anything else doing to it it sounds terrific, I've been using nagaoka mp200 and ortofon 2m bronze, the biggest shock was putting on a AT3600L the bargain basement cart , it to sounds incredible, if you can get the chance to audition a G you would be impressed too 😀.
@@TheMaxx111 you'd have to go a long way to better the MK2s 1979 to 2010 I believe, true classics, and still sounds incredible today, the Hana cart you use would be my choice too (Japanese) with my G model I swapped out the new platter mat for a RGS0010 from the MK2 as its 6mm as opposed to the 3mm stock mat 😀.
Nice review. I was given my mom's Kenwood KD-5070, fully automatic, direct drive unit of which we owned since around 1977. I recently had it reconditioned and installed an Ortofon headshell with a Bronze cartridge & stylus. The top plinth is one of the early man-made countertop type solid surfaces with a mix of limestone particles, glass powder & unsaturated resin. I love the looks of it and it performs well. If you ever get your hands on one it would be fun to see your review.
kenwood is my go to brand but because where i live no one sells kenwood i ended up buying more pioneer and technics ,also Sony but never a good brand as the others
My SL-1700 MK2 has the same problem..and needs the tone arm return gear replaced so when the gear gives up the ghost then I'll tackle both issues at one time.still has the Acutec M320iii and sounds great.btw nice video.
Right, the last screw went into the last hole, nothing left over and it works! Thank you very much for that! I'll do my second deck maybe tomorrow. I had two issues, both tiny really. First you didn't mention there's a washer on that spindle with the circlip you have to take off. Of course it came off the spindle and I had no idea where it came from, but looking at your video you touch it when talking about the circlip. The other issue was that cable grip thing, it doesn't just come off when you take the two screws out, you have to remove the centre part to free the cable. But other than that, no problems! I have to say I am very impressed with the build quality, no wonder these decks survived rave DJ treatment! What a fantastic bit of kit. I've had my decks for 25 years and I always knew they were good, but I'd never seen inside before.
this were a surprise when apeared , i use them for a lot of years in a radio station and for 25 years i also had two but in my system in 76 i bought a SL-3310 that uses the same system , and later i bought a SL-1000mkII they were very good and still work today with perfection , the best thing they had was instant stop and start also when stoped the the turntable it self feels loose but when in the 80's and 90 the so called audiophiles said they were bad , now they are the best , only a problem to listen to music at home they don't have auto return, one arrives tired and puts a record when falling a sleep the record keeps rolling with the stylus on top, i bought two with original stylus and ortofon for djs for 500€ much newer than mine ,regards
@@DG-ie5ip i have a lot of turntables i bought all my life but the better sounding ones are two thorens one bought in 83 and other in 92 ,but i have one that worked in a radio station i started when younger ,that it was substituted by 72 technics SL-1200 but this thorens professional from 69/70 is a perfect working turntable all this years working with minor corrections due to it´s engine being thousands of hours used ,still with a clean and perfect sound ,the others are all technics or pioneer most of them direct-drive but have two pioneer turntables with such a perfect sound ,one from 72 other from 74 ,the 72 one using original cartridge and a substitution needle that i bought several in the 80´s, when tested against a new Pro-ject around 1.000€ cost with a 2M red ortofon cartridhge and needle was far from the quality of the 72 pioneer turntable,when measured the pioneer had incredible specifications and the Pro-ject being new was far from the specifications written on it´s manual
Great tutorial! The only thing I would have done differently is use silicone grease (commonly used by plumbers on valves). It never dries out. Also, putting weight on the tone arm while it was flipped over might not have been the best idea. Use blocks so that the tone arm doesn't get squished.
Thank you for sharing this. I have the same issue. I put double mats under the record until now, but I'm going to fix it as you've shown. Anyway, it's crazy how much screws should be removed.
I had the same problem. I put light lubricating oil around the top of the threaded portion and left it for two weeks. Then I repeated for another two weeks. After the fourth week the threaded portion could turn and, after a few back-and-forths it has been fine ever since. No need to strip anything down.
Hi mate. Pro DJ since 1984 this is a common problem with installed turntables in clubs for example. I only have one deck now a Japanese Mk3 with a much better modern power supply and the heavy transformer removed. Also every year add some proper oil to the bearing buy the Technics / Panasonic stuff. In the past I had a Townshend Rock, Linn Sondek, Manticore Mantra, Rega 3.
That other heavy black molding you removed isn't metal but bulk molding compound - there to increase the plinth mass and even FURTHER reduce vibrations and resonances. The SL1200 is the epitome of "they don't make 'em like that anymore!"
@@zukispur5493 open one up, you might change your mind. Not taking anything away from Audio Technica but it's made for a far cheaper cost than the old SL-1200. Most modern "audiophile" decks going for tens of thousands don't measure as well on fundamentals (rumble, wow and flutter etc) as a vintage SL.
@@adampoll4977 I don't use work turntables at home. I use my Garrard 401 with a sme tone arm. Proper. With my Sansui AU 717 amp which drives 4 1969 leek sandwich 600 speakers.
A very informative video. I have a new 1200GR and wanted to be sure that my tone arm was set parallel to the platter. It’s a little hard to see the marks on a tape measure given the angle of view and I didn’t like the idea of holding tape measure over the tone arm assembly while looking at the tape. I made a jig from a very small metal square from Home Depot and clipped a cut piece of white card stock to the square’s blade with a very small binder clip. I set the square on the platter at the front and back of the tonearm and could very easily eyeball the distance from the arm to the card and adjust the VTA. Safe and accurate.
I had a similar problem on a 1978 Technics SL-3200. Although this turntable does not have a VTA adjustment, the dried out grease problem affected the spring connected to the anti skate adjustment dial. The sticky grease in the middle of the spring had the effect of pinching the spring together, so when set at "1" it would pull on the arm too hard. I removed and cleaned the spring (and areas around it) with alcohol and electronics spray cleaner. Then I applied a small amount of lithium grease. Problem solved!
Thank you for info aprecitaed this will help do a future proof I've recently decided to go back to my youth ( had numarks ) an grabbed a 1200 cheap of eb This was the second checke after first major the tone arm Just need a quiet place and no kids to help me brake it as I'll do a good job on me own buggering it up
I had some technics mk5 back in the day, when I moved flat during transportation my record box fell on one, slightly damaged the cosmetics I was gutted but it still worked
The Technics SL-1200Mk2 turntable was originally made as a commercial audiophile table for professional broadcast use. It was not for DJs originally. This is why they are still around working like tanks as they were designed to do...
10:34 Looks like you've bought an Audio Technica AT-VM95 cartridge, I can tell from that white packaging piece... I've been buying way too many cartridges lol 😅 11:00 Yes lithium grease is good for metals. But to others: don't use silicone grease, because that contains acids which corrode metals. 14:45 Way easier is to get an acrylic VTA/Azimuth adjustment block, those can be had for just a few bucks on ebay. It's just a transparent block with a few parallel lines.
Nice video. I had the same problem with mine and fixed it. However i used a toothbrush to clean the threads. One thing i wanted to mention tho is about the calibration when you put everything back together. Yes indeed the zero must be lined up with that red line BUT.. zero is not the point where we start screwing!! The right way to do it is to line up the mark on the tonearm with number one on the ring and then start screwing. When you reach the end...(and you cannot screw no more)...then UNscrew one full cirlce (or one and a half). It is normal when you see the ring going a little bit below zero..but it will stop exactly on six when you turn it the other way. Thank you
I worked on office machines for over 39 years. Old dried grease was a real problem. Also, I had to remove and reinstall those stupid E clips nearly every day. The farthest I ever launched one was 27 feet. I carried many spares.
I’ve got a pair of MK2s purchased brand new in 2005. I’ve always used Ortofon Concorde cartridges with them, so there was never any reason to adjust the height. Nevertheless, I’ve been aware of the potential for the ring to seize up and get sticky. I’ve rotated my rings every few months to different heights to keep the mechanism freed up. They’re not buttery smooth to turn, but I don’t need a pair of channel locks to turn them either 😄
I want two pair of those so bad, and yes luckily I have the Rane Serato SL1, and all I have to do is buy the Serato controller vinyl time code and I'm all set 😎🔥🔥🔥
Lighter fluid and a stiff tooth brush will work to clean up the helicoid quite well. I’d recommend using helicoid grease- the sort used when re-greasing a camera lens. I would not use a cotton swab as you will get some cotton fibers in the helicoid.
I got mine working, U just have to be careful though! Thats the tone arm assembly which is the main part of the turntable! U do not want it to get stuck, So, Every now and again, Adjust it! People who own these should be a little more patient and careful. They really are the best ever made
Nice video production👍🏻 I have the SL-1300…..very happy with it, however it lacks this feature. I checked manual and it is not addressed there either. Tone arm appears level…..I will measure for fun😂 Anyone else have a SL-1300 and know how to level the VTA?
Yep. They do stand for it don't they. Like a couple a good time girls enjoying what they do, earning
25 днів тому
i was planning to follow you to unstick my 2 1210s but instead sprayed wd40 and some contact cleaner/isopropyl/lighter fluid into the base...2 days later it works like new. I sprayed some more wd 40 for good measure and will now remember to exercise the ring regularly.
Another alternative to change VTA on a turntable without VTA adjustment is using a ticker or thinner mat. Cartridge shims increase the weight significantly, which can also be detrimental to the sound if the tonearm resonance frequency becomes too low because of that added weight. That's why mats are generally the preferred option.
Shims don't have significant weight - you'd have to have an awfully heavy shim to push your resonant frequency out of range, or you'd have to be a complete edge case where you're already below ideal frequency yet you're getting away with it. As far as altering VTA both with shims or with a mat, it's fun idea but when you get into the world of complex stylus shapes, you'll struggle to find a mat with the right height as altering the rake angle at the site of the stylus is not a subtle adjustment the way that it is when you have a VTA adjustment of any type on the back of the arm
I cant get the ring out of the brace that you screw into the chassis. I already tried soaking it in WD40 and also letting it it in hot water to no avail. any tips?
Great video! Thank you for the education. I have a different issue with my Mk2, and if you would take my question? I’ve been looking online for help for a couple of days, and can’t find any information regarding my plight.
The best cleaning/lubrication for this type of thread would be "contact cleaner" with a small toothbrush followed by Tri-Flo. Then apply a high-tech "grease" lubricant. Not sure if I would use lithium grease. I use "Super-lube" grease and "gun oil" lubricant on my Thornes table.
@@nolan5150yt I use both the oil and the grease. Grease is #92003. Synthetic Oil is 51004. Both contain PTFE. I also use synthetic "gear oil" where the bearing meets the thrust plate on the turntable.
Mine is not stuck yet, but it takes quite a bit of force already. Hopefully i can get it going easier by adding some thin oil so i don't have to disasemble it.
I had the same problem. I put light lubricating oil around the top of the threaded portion and left it for two weeks. Then I repeated for another two weeks. After the fourth week the threaded portion could turn and, after a few back-and-forths it has been fine ever since. No need to strip anything down.
Awesome video! Quick question have you or anyone had problems holding bpms using these SL-1200 with Phase? It’s driving me crazy and my guess is that they belts might need changed not certain but would like to know your thoughts.
I noticed at 5:05 there is a lump/bulge on the plastic cover for the main board that is under the platter is that supposed to be there or is from the components under it getting hot? I have an SL1200 MKII and mine has that same lump should I be concerned?
I bought one from Japan probably paid too much? $450.00 but it has a stuck VTA! But I'm gonna watch this video a few times before I get my courage up! I guess that's why this 1200 came with extra pads up top of platter? Poormans adjustment? What cartridge would you recommend? Thanks Byrne
I had the same problem. I put light lubricating oil around the top of the threaded portion and left it for two weeks. Then I repeated for another two weeks. After the fourth week the threaded portion could turn and, after a few back-and-forths it has been fine ever since. No need to strip anything down.
Hi mate, my problem on my 1210 mk2 is you can twist the arm asin it must be the screw underneath the tonearm but how do i get to it, do i need to take the whole tonearm out from underneath? any help much appreciated thanks
Please help...my sl1200 simplicity is traveling the material back to front,when I push the button to change travel,it pops out and continue to travel back to front
One of the things that I always wondered, If the cartridge is level to the record through the use of shims, (but the tonearm is not) , will it sound as good as BOTH the tonearm and cartridge being level to the record?
Yes, but the cartridge being level to the record is not necessarily indicative of correct rake angle anyways. But I get the idea behind your question, and the answer is yes.
@@DG-ie5ip Sometimes it's important, but only when you get into exotic stylus shapes. If we're talking elliptical or spherical, it doesn't make any perceptible difference.
I've had the same, I didn't dismantle it , I freed it up using a hair dryer with a slim nozzle/ diffuser varing the heat, 10 minutes later the problem had gone.
I had the same problem. I put light lubricating oil around the top of the threaded portion and left it for two weeks. Then I repeated for another two weeks. After the fourth week the threaded portion could turn and, after a few back-and-forths it has been fine ever since. No need to strip anything down.
hi mate my tone arm height adjust is stuck and is 1mm off will this cause damage ? i know i need to take it apart and fix but will this cause any problems as it is now? cheers!
I had the same problem. I put light lubricating oil around the top of the threaded portion and left it for two weeks. Then I repeated for another two weeks. After the fourth week the threaded portion could turn and, after a few back-and-forths it has been fine ever since. No need to strip anything down.
My Own Devices Hello, if my replace the T250mA fuse Slow Blow the with same fuse but middle blow time 20 ms,what will happen?Will the fuse work properly?
You recommend the 1200, fine, compare it to your Linn, come on! You talk about vintage, do a comparison. I have subscribed and really like your vids and thumb them up., but it is time you gave your opinion on these decks. , so come on.
Ok...Enjoy them both very much. Each has its pos' and negs. The Linn could be a bit overrated with all of the mythology that surrounds them, also quite pricey. The 1200 could be underrated as "just a DJ table", which it clearly is not. Incredible value for what get for only $300-500. Completely different design goals and approaches to engineering. Keeping both until I find something I like better.
hi there, this is a great video but I still have a problem. Do you have a suggestion of how to unstick the ring. When I try righty loosy it is really seized and i can not loosen it. Could it be cross threaded? I'm really stressed lol! undid all those screws but I knew I still wouldn't be able to do it. Cheers
@@MODAC Hay thanks very much that method worked. I got the wifes (not mine) hairdryer out and after burning my self several times it slowly started to turn. It took me 5 hrs to do this change in the end as I kept messing it up and moving the zero lol. I appreciate the vid very much, helped me out a lot.
Youre not supposed to use Lithium or copper based grease. What the correct stuff is high grade petroleum Jelly. Technics Tonearm Helicoid Grease is the correct name.
@@MODAC It's not the big weakness, this is just some piece of audio dogma that someone has read somewhere. It's adjustable, the bearing friction is decent for what it is, and there's never any slop there. For the price, the 1200 is a good performer.
@@MODAC Yep, the only thing anyone will ever cite is that a removable headshell is a point of resonance, and a one-piece arm has better rigidity. In the real world, the only thing that I see as a shortcoming of removable headshells is that there's some looseness in the fitting that could affect azimuth - but only if you have a very critical stylus shape and you are not paying attention enough to check it. Bottom line, people just love to appear intelligent in the process of poo-pooing others' gear.
Excellent work. Two suggestions: 1) use an old toothbrush to clean the dried up grease from the brass threads rather than a pick or screwdriver,. This will avoid damaging the threads, you, or something else if you slip. Second, WD-40 will leave a film (it contains fish oil). I would consider denatured alcohol for cleaning, which will evaporate completely to remove the dried up grease (it is safe enough for tape heads, so you likely have some around anyway.
i've always used wd-40 to clean electrical contacts , it works and keeps it in top condition , regards
but first i used to buy Deoxit ,but the wd-40 was cheaper
I've had similar problems in the past , if you're not totally confident about dismantling your sl1200/10 , here's what I do to free up a seized up VTA I use a hairdryer with a slim nozzle to aim the heat to the seized area moving the hairdryer in and out so as not to over warm the plinth, whilst attempting to turn the VTA once it's warm you should start to feel a bit of movement. It always works for me , once free I lubricant the area with a watch oil which is very thin . Once completed give the VTA a turn once in a while. Hope this helps you.
You’re destined to repeat the seizing failure by using white lithium grease. Use synthetic silicone grease. I used it in 1978 on my Hitachi HT-460 tonearm height adjuster. To this day, it is smooth and turns easily! Time tested and proven!
Could you also use ceramic grease or is it to harsh
@@octymocty132 synthetic grease is cheap and has proven its worth over time. Ceramic grease? How long has it been around? Do you have an example of its stability over 40 years?
Thanks Wolfman. About to dismember my 1200s and replace the diode number 89 or whatever. Don't really like the idea of flipping around my slider like that one video suggested.
Hello. What synthetic silicone grease do you use exactly? Thank you.
Lithium is usually preferred for metal to metal but it can decay rubber and plastic. I’d go with a silicone in this case as well. PB blaster and WD-40 both make silicone sprays. Never guess when it comes to lubes. It still scares me people think WD-40 is a lube.
Thx for this video. Gave me the confidence to turn my old MK2 over and do this repair. Got them in 95. They are on loan with a friend but will be reclaiming to get back into scratching.
Wow Thanks! I own a SL1210 MK5 which I was unaware of. When I finally get it out of the box and set it up, I'll verify this. I really enjoy your laid back/humorous style to your videos. Hopefully the channel continues to gain traction and you can continue making videos..👍
Never to old to learn something new Thanks mate
Great video. Thanks for this information. this will definitely make my repair process go a lot more smoothly.
Great to see some repair and maintenance content in these modern years. Thank you sir.
You’re welcome. Thanks
Thanks for the informative video. Given the large number of SL-1200's out there I am sure plenty of people will benefit from this. I certainly wish my Rega had a simple, accurate adjustment mechanism like this! While the correct VTA adjustment on the SL-1200 is - as you say - an important factor is getting the best sound, manufacturing errors in stylus installation can still be an issue. The tone arm can look right while the stylus is still not positioned correctly. Still, the adjustment you explain, as well as the repair you go over, should help a lot.
I had the same problem. I put light lubricating oil around the top of the threaded portion and left it for two weeks. Then I repeated for another two weeks. After the fourth week the threaded portion could turn and, after a few back-and-forths it has been fine ever since. No need to strip anything down.
Glad to hear this, was thinking I might try that approach first.
Good stuff. Was just looking around the other day to learn how to unjam them. Saved for future reference :)
Damn, ill have to go check mine now, great video.
As a DJ of 30 years, I love the original grey 1200 mk 2. I'm out of the game now but I bought a brand new 1200 for playback use only. I'm using an Ortofon Blue cartridge. All the cleaning tips I know VTA ANTI-SKATE etc. I even had brackets mounted to my wall rather than sit the deck on a table on the floor to prevent skipping and other problems. I have set the tonearm using a protractor and digital scales etc. This deck will be working long after I'm gone.
the ones i have will sure work a lot after i just vanish, also worked with two SL-1200MKII for 35 years but i sold them completelly working with two concordes and the original cartridges and stylus they came with but i could only get 500€ ,this in 2000, now they have value before was just a working turntable but built like a tank with great engines
Great video, when you start tearing down the technics you really begin to see the quality of the components and just how much goes into one of these decks , you can see why the technics fan boys (and I'm one of them) rave about these players, having the sl1200 G , you really have to go along way to better the 1200s. Thanks again for your video.
The actual 1200G or the 1200GR? The 1200G is a work of art. I have yet to hear the G and really want to compare it to my good old 1200 mk 2s.
@@TheMaxx111 the mk 2 is really that good, the GR is the closest, although completely reworked internally, apart from the classic dust cover , the G is something else in everyway. It has a weight approaching 40LB the top plate is a 1cm thick milled aluminium, straight out of the box, it doesn't really need anything else doing to it it sounds terrific, I've been using nagaoka mp200 and ortofon 2m bronze, the biggest shock was putting on a AT3600L the bargain basement cart , it to sounds incredible, if you can get the chance to audition a G you would be impressed too 😀.
@@peterstudley1804 I am a 1200 fanboy too. I have 2 1200 mk 2s one with a Goldring 1042 and the other with a Hana SL.
@@TheMaxx111 you'd have to go a long way to better the MK2s 1979 to 2010 I believe, true classics, and still sounds incredible today, the Hana cart you use would be my choice too (Japanese) with my G model I swapped out the new platter mat for a RGS0010 from the MK2 as its 6mm as opposed to the 3mm stock mat 😀.
Thx for this valuable information Sir, greetings from Belgium.
Technics sl-1200 is king, it is Just the best. Nothing comes close. Its mechanical, like a car, service it and it will last you a life time..
Nice review. I was given my mom's Kenwood KD-5070, fully automatic, direct drive unit of which we owned since around 1977. I recently had it reconditioned and installed an Ortofon headshell with a Bronze cartridge & stylus. The top plinth is one of the early man-made countertop type solid surfaces with a mix of limestone particles, glass powder & unsaturated resin. I love the looks of it and it performs well. If you ever get your hands on one it would be fun to see your review.
If he wants to do a review like this, then I can refer him to the person at Ortofon in New York who would probably make a review loaner happen.
kenwood is my go to brand but because where i live no one sells kenwood i ended up buying more pioneer and technics ,also Sony but never a good brand as the others
My SL-1700 MK2 has the same problem..and needs the tone arm return gear replaced so when the gear gives up the ghost then I'll tackle both issues at one time.still has the Acutec M320iii and sounds great.btw nice video.
Right, the last screw went into the last hole, nothing left over and it works! Thank you very much for that! I'll do my second deck maybe tomorrow. I had two issues, both tiny really. First you didn't mention there's a washer on that spindle with the circlip you have to take off. Of course it came off the spindle and I had no idea where it came from, but looking at your video you touch it when talking about the circlip. The other issue was that cable grip thing, it doesn't just come off when you take the two screws out, you have to remove the centre part to free the cable.
But other than that, no problems! I have to say I am very impressed with the build quality, no wonder these decks survived rave DJ treatment! What a fantastic bit of kit. I've had my decks for 25 years and I always knew they were good, but I'd never seen inside before.
Thanks. Those details got lost in the editing. Glad I could help, mostly.
Great video, thanks. Now I need to fix the crazy tempo slider.
@@DG-ie5ip are you saying put the plus direction moving away? I saw that one too. Saw what diode ($.89) and some soldering which is easy. Thanks
this were a surprise when apeared , i use them for a lot of years in a radio station and for 25 years i also had two but in my system in 76 i bought a SL-3310 that uses the same system , and later i bought a SL-1000mkII they were very good and still work today with perfection , the best thing they had was instant stop and start also when stoped the the turntable it self feels loose but when in the 80's and 90 the so called audiophiles said they were bad , now they are the best , only a problem to listen to music at home they don't have auto return, one arrives tired and puts a record when falling a sleep the record keeps rolling with the stylus on top, i bought two with original stylus and ortofon for djs for 500€ much newer than mine ,regards
@@DG-ie5ip i have a lot of turntables i bought all my life but the better sounding ones are two thorens one bought in 83 and other in 92 ,but i have one that worked in a radio station i started when younger ,that it was substituted by 72 technics SL-1200 but this thorens professional from 69/70 is a perfect working turntable all this years working with minor corrections due to it´s engine being thousands of hours used ,still with a clean and perfect sound ,the others are all technics or pioneer most of them direct-drive but have two pioneer turntables with such a perfect sound ,one from 72 other from 74 ,the 72 one using original cartridge and a substitution needle that i bought several in the 80´s, when tested against a new Pro-ject around 1.000€ cost with a 2M red ortofon cartridhge and needle was far from the quality of the 72 pioneer turntable,when measured the pioneer had incredible specifications and the Pro-ject being new was far from the specifications written on it´s manual
also there is a video here on youtube where they test a Po-ject against a full automatic turntable from technics sold from early 80´s to early 90´s
Great tutorial! The only thing I would have done differently is use silicone grease (commonly used by plumbers on valves). It never dries out. Also, putting weight on the tone arm while it was flipped over might not have been the best idea. Use blocks so that the tone arm doesn't get squished.
Probably buying one soon. It will be nice to finally have a really good turntable
Get the audio technica AT LP 1240. MUCH BETTER TURNTABLE
@@zukispur5493 let's see it still spinning after 30 years.my technics 1210 is by far the best electrical purchase I've ever made.never missed a beat
@@lifesjustanillusion246 my Garrard 401 will still be playing. Them DJ turntables are just donkeys.
@@lifesjustanillusion246 i sold mine and stuck with Garrtard 301 and 401s by far the best turntables i have owned
@@zukispur5493 exactly horrible sounding turntables , cold, thin ,two dimentional junk
Thank you for sharing this. I have the same issue. I put double mats under the record until now, but I'm going to fix it as you've shown.
Anyway, it's crazy how much screws should be removed.
I had the same problem. I put light lubricating oil around the top of the threaded portion and left it for two weeks. Then I repeated for another two weeks. After the fourth week the threaded portion could turn and, after a few back-and-forths it has been fine ever since. No need to strip anything down.
@@russellswanborough6089 Thanks.
Hi mate. Pro DJ since 1984 this is a common problem with installed turntables in clubs for example. I only have one deck now a Japanese Mk3 with a much better modern power supply and the heavy transformer removed. Also every year add some proper oil to the bearing buy the Technics / Panasonic stuff. In the past I had a Townshend Rock, Linn Sondek, Manticore Mantra, Rega 3.
Good job well done and worth pointing out.. I enjoyed this a lot. Thanks Dave. 👍
John.
loved this video :) nice job
What I did was just another platter mat and that got the tone arm level with the platter
I shared it with my Technics Group
That other heavy black molding you removed isn't metal but bulk molding compound - there to increase the plinth mass and even FURTHER reduce vibrations and resonances.
The SL1200 is the epitome of "they don't make 'em like that anymore!"
Yes they do. Audio technica AT LP 1240. Badass turner
@@zukispur5493 open one up, you might change your mind. Not taking anything away from Audio Technica but it's made for a far cheaper cost than the old SL-1200. Most modern "audiophile" decks going for tens of thousands don't measure as well on fundamentals (rumble, wow and flutter etc) as a vintage SL.
@@adampoll4977 I don't use work turntables at home. I use my Garrard 401 with a sme tone arm. Proper. With my Sansui AU 717 amp which drives 4 1969 leek sandwich 600 speakers.
for sure
so I should not remove it like he did?
A very informative video. I have a new 1200GR and wanted to be sure that my tone arm was set parallel to the platter. It’s a little hard to see the marks on a tape measure given the angle of view and I didn’t like the idea of holding tape measure over the tone arm assembly while looking at the tape. I made a jig from a very small metal square from Home Depot and clipped a cut piece of white card stock to the square’s blade with a very small binder clip. I set the square on the platter at the front and back of the tonearm and could very easily eyeball the distance from the arm to the card and adjust the VTA. Safe and accurate.
I had a similar problem on a 1978 Technics SL-3200. Although this turntable does not have a VTA adjustment, the dried out grease problem affected the spring connected to the anti skate adjustment dial. The sticky grease in the middle of the spring had the effect of pinching the spring together, so when set at "1" it would pull on the arm too hard. I removed and cleaned the spring (and areas around it) with alcohol and electronics spray cleaner. Then I applied a small amount of lithium grease. Problem solved!
Thank you for info aprecitaed this will help do a future proof
I've recently decided to go back to my youth ( had numarks ) an grabbed a 1200 cheap of eb
This was the second checke after first major the tone arm
Just need a quiet place and no kids to help me brake it as I'll do a good job on me own buggering it up
I had some technics mk5 back in the day, when I moved flat during transportation my record box fell on one, slightly damaged the cosmetics I was gutted but it still worked
Brilliant video! Loving your work, thank you 👏👌🙏
The Technics SL-1200Mk2 turntable was originally made as a commercial audiophile table for professional broadcast use. It was not for DJs originally. This is why they are still around working like tanks as they were designed to do...
Yes you are right, I've heard Abbey Road studios in London uk has a technics sl1200 G on hand , that speaks volumes. 😀.
10:34 Looks like you've bought an Audio Technica AT-VM95 cartridge, I can tell from that white packaging piece... I've been buying way too many cartridges lol 😅
11:00 Yes lithium grease is good for metals. But to others: don't use silicone grease, because that contains acids which corrode metals.
14:45 Way easier is to get an acrylic VTA/Azimuth adjustment block, those can be had for just a few bucks on ebay. It's just a transparent block with a few parallel lines.
Thanks for the tips. I don’t own a vm95. The one I show on the 1200 is a Shure V15 Type 3. I also own AT VM540ML and a 740ML.
Nice video. I had the same problem with mine and fixed it. However i used a toothbrush to clean the threads. One thing i wanted to mention tho is about the calibration when you put everything back together. Yes indeed the zero must be lined up with that red line BUT.. zero is not the point where we start screwing!! The right way to do it is to line up the mark on the tonearm with number one on the ring and then start screwing. When you reach the end...(and you cannot screw no more)...then UNscrew one full cirlce (or one and a half). It is normal when you see the ring going a little bit below zero..but it will stop exactly on six when you turn it the other way. Thank you
Thanks for the tips.
OoOoOo this is the turn table I use so I'm very interested to see what's up here
Thanks - great Video. You should change the oil of the Tonearm lift because it lowers to slow. :-)
I worked on office machines for over 39 years. Old dried grease was a real problem. Also, I had to remove and reinstall those stupid E clips nearly every day. The farthest I ever launched one was 27 feet. I carried many spares.
I use 300k-500k weight Silicone Oil like is used in the damping mechanism to lubricate the arm height adjustments threads
I learned that back in the 80s I had to go inside my turntable everything still works fine
I’ve got a pair of MK2s purchased brand new in 2005. I’ve always used Ortofon Concorde cartridges with them, so there was never any reason to adjust the height. Nevertheless, I’ve been aware of the potential for the ring to seize up and get sticky. I’ve rotated my rings every few months to different heights to keep the mechanism freed up. They’re not buttery smooth to turn, but I don’t need a pair of channel locks to turn them either 😄
You should still adjust the height when using Concordes
Great video man. Good job good info.
Glad it was helpful!
mine is sized, will have to do this as well. maybe on the weekend :))
I want two pair of those so bad, and yes luckily I have the Rane Serato SL1, and all I have to do is buy the Serato controller vinyl time code and I'm all set 😎🔥🔥🔥
Lighter fluid and a stiff tooth brush will work to clean up the helicoid quite well. I’d recommend using helicoid grease- the sort used when re-greasing a camera lens. I would not use a cotton swab as you will get some cotton fibers in the helicoid.
I got mine working, U just have to be careful though! Thats the tone arm assembly which is the main part of the turntable! U do not want it to get stuck, So, Every now and again, Adjust it! People who own these should be a little more patient and careful. They really are the best ever made
Use degreaser and a brass wire brush .. cleans beautifully 😛..!
I wonder if the ambient temp of the room makes a big difference. Dead of winter vs summer
Some tone arms like SMEs have built-in height adjustment...
Nice video production👍🏻 I have the SL-1300…..very happy with it, however it lacks this feature. I checked manual and it is not addressed there either. Tone arm appears level…..I will measure for fun😂
Anyone else have a SL-1300 and know how to level the VTA?
Thanks. I owned a 1300 recently. The simplest way is to find platter mats of different thicknesses. I should have mentioned that in the video.
I’ve had three pairs of SL1200/1210’s shamefully abused as DJ turntables.. boy will they put up with abuse.
Yep. They do stand for it don't they. Like a couple a good time girls enjoying what they do, earning
i was planning to follow you to unstick my 2 1210s but instead sprayed wd40 and some contact cleaner/isopropyl/lighter fluid into the base...2 days later it works like new. I sprayed some more wd 40 for good measure and will now
remember to exercise the ring regularly.
Agree that using SOFT toothbrush and alcohol to remove old grease would be best. Good job though.
1300 better table for home use. Good video.
I had a 1300. Besides the automatic feature, the 1200 is a much better turntable in every way.
Another alternative to change VTA on a turntable without VTA adjustment is using a ticker or thinner mat.
Cartridge shims increase the weight significantly, which can also be detrimental to the sound if the tonearm resonance frequency becomes too low because of that added weight.
That's why mats are generally the preferred option.
Shims don't have significant weight - you'd have to have an awfully heavy shim to push your resonant frequency out of range, or you'd have to be a complete edge case where you're already below ideal frequency yet you're getting away with it. As far as altering VTA both with shims or with a mat, it's fun idea but when you get into the world of complex stylus shapes, you'll struggle to find a mat with the right height as altering the rake angle at the site of the stylus is not a subtle adjustment the way that it is when you have a VTA adjustment of any type on the back of the arm
I cant get the ring out of the brace that you screw into the chassis. I already tried soaking it in WD40 and also letting it it in hot water to no avail. any tips?
Great video! Thank you for the education. I have a different issue with my Mk2, and if you would take my question? I’ve been looking online for help for a couple of days, and can’t find any information regarding my plight.
This is a great video! Thanks!!
Thank you!
Fascinating. And thorough.
Now I need another 'table.
Very well done. Sold me!
Why not use a form of anti-seize on the threads?
Not sure what anti-seize is.
@@MODAC Penetrating Oil. It's a very thin oil used to unseize stuck threads.
The best cleaning/lubrication for this type of thread would be "contact cleaner" with a small toothbrush followed by Tri-Flo. Then apply a high-tech "grease" lubricant. Not sure if I would use lithium grease. I use "Super-lube" grease and "gun oil" lubricant on my Thornes table.
Hello. Which Superlube product do you use exactly? Thank you.
@@nolan5150yt I use both the oil and the grease. Grease is #92003. Synthetic Oil is 51004. Both contain PTFE. I also use synthetic "gear oil" where the bearing meets the thrust plate on the turntable.
My lock button is stuck. I guess it is turned into the lock-position way too far. This way done by its previous owner.. How can I fix this?
You may have to open it up and get in there like I did.
Who's ever had the DTI take a pair of their 12s (and everything else) pirate radio days in the 80s. Dem man deh didnt play.
Never put face down a SL-1200, you can damage the bearings and arm tube
What's wrong with the turntable when it starts a little slow? I can barely put my hand on it with the slipmat and it completely stops.
Mine is not stuck yet, but it takes quite a bit of force already.
Hopefully i can get it going easier by adding some thin oil so i don't have to disasemble it.
I had the same problem. I put light lubricating oil around the top of the threaded portion and left it for two weeks. Then I repeated for another two weeks. After the fourth week the threaded portion could turn and, after a few back-and-forths it has been fine ever since. No need to strip anything down.
Awesome video! Quick question have you or anyone had problems holding bpms using these SL-1200 with Phase? It’s driving me crazy and my guess is that they belts might need changed not certain but would like to know your thoughts.
They are direct drive motors so there are no belts, The speed can be corrected using potentiometers on the circuit board
Didn’t show what method u used to free up the ring so u can remove it
I noticed at 5:05 there is a lump/bulge on the plastic cover for the main board that is under the platter is that supposed to be there or is from the components under it getting hot? I have an SL1200 MKII and mine has that same lump should I be concerned?
For me, the locks are stuck. Anyone have any suggestions?
Have a plastic VTA gauge to avoid marring surface of my 1600Mk2.
I bought one from Japan probably paid too much? $450.00 but it has a stuck VTA! But I'm gonna watch this video a few times before I get my courage up! I guess that's why this 1200 came with extra pads up top of platter? Poormans adjustment? What cartridge would you recommend? Thanks Byrne
I had the same problem. I put light lubricating oil around the top of the threaded portion and left it for two weeks. Then I repeated for another two weeks. After the fourth week the threaded portion could turn and, after a few back-and-forths it has been fine ever since. No need to strip anything down.
@@russellswanborough6089 thanks for the information! Light lubrication oil! Like 3M?
Hi mate, my problem on my 1210 mk2 is you can twist the arm asin it must be the screw underneath the tonearm but how do i get to it, do i need to take the whole tonearm out from underneath? any help much appreciated thanks
Not sure I understand. If you join my Patreon, I will try to help you with your questions. www.patreon.com/myowndevices
Please help...my sl1200 simplicity is traveling the material back to front,when I push the button to change travel,it pops out and continue to travel back to front
Nice! What cartridge would recommend for the 1200?? Thanks Byrne
Depends on your budget. Check out the VM series by Audio Technica.
Nagaoka mp110, often used.
One of the things that I always wondered, If the cartridge is level to the record through the use of shims, (but the tonearm is not) , will it sound as good as BOTH the tonearm and cartridge being level to the record?
Yes, but the cartridge being level to the record is not necessarily indicative of correct rake angle anyways. But I get the idea behind your question, and the answer is yes.
@@DG-ie5ip Sometimes it's important, but only when you get into exotic stylus shapes. If we're talking elliptical or spherical, it doesn't make any perceptible difference.
mine has been seized for years. Probably because I never adjusted luckily via is straight.
Well, now you know how to fix it.
I've had the same, I didn't dismantle it , I freed it up using a hair dryer with a slim nozzle/ diffuser varing the heat, 10 minutes later the problem had gone.
@@peterstudley1804 Wow! That worked in like 3 min. Thanks for the rad tip
I had the same problem. I put light lubricating oil around the top of the threaded portion and left it for two weeks. Then I repeated for another two weeks. After the fourth week the threaded portion could turn and, after a few back-and-forths it has been fine ever since. No need to strip anything down.
hi mate my tone arm height adjust is stuck and is 1mm off will this cause damage ? i know i need to take it apart and fix but will this cause any problems as it is now? cheers!
One millimeter Isn’t too bad. Damage will not be such a problem, but it won’t be performing at its best.
@@MODAC nice one thanks
I had the same problem. I put light lubricating oil around the top of the threaded portion and left it for two weeks. Then I repeated for another two weeks. After the fourth week the threaded portion could turn and, after a few back-and-forths it has been fine ever since. No need to strip anything down.
My Own Devices
Hello, if my replace the T250mA fuse Slow Blow the with same fuse but middle blow time 20 ms,what will happen?Will the fuse work properly?
Sorry, I’m not the guy for a question of that nature.
such an old unit needs elco replacement and resistor replacement and the vr regulator sucks
You recommend the 1200, fine, compare it to your Linn, come on! You talk about vintage, do a comparison. I have subscribed and really like your vids and thumb them up., but it is time you gave your opinion on these decks.
, so come on.
Ok...Enjoy them both very much. Each has its pos' and negs. The Linn could be a bit overrated with all of the mythology that surrounds them, also quite pricey. The 1200 could be underrated as "just a DJ table", which it clearly is not. Incredible value for what get for only $300-500. Completely different design goals and approaches to engineering. Keeping both until I find something I like better.
Ouch...DO NOT rest the turntable on the ARM (not even soft), add a firm support next to it....
It’s fine. Thanks
if you would have turned it the right way, you wouldn't need to take it apart.
Not true.
WASHER KIND OF LOCK THING = C-CLIP
Yes, I know.
hi there, this is a great video but I still have a problem. Do you have a suggestion of how to unstick the ring. When I try righty loosy it is really seized and i can not loosen it. Could it be cross threaded? I'm really stressed lol! undid all those screws but I knew I still wouldn't be able to do it. Cheers
Try heat.
@@MODAC Hay thanks very much that method worked. I got the wifes (not mine) hairdryer out and after burning my self several times it slowly started to turn. It took me 5 hrs to do this change in the end as I kept messing it up and moving the zero lol. I appreciate the vid very much, helped me out a lot.
Youre not supposed to use Lithium or copper based grease. What the correct stuff is high grade petroleum Jelly. Technics Tonearm Helicoid Grease is the correct name.
Good to know. I just sold it, and own two more. Thanks.
WD40.... boom.... done!
The tonearm is the big weakness of the 1200.
Please elaborate
@@MODAC It's not the big weakness, this is just some piece of audio dogma that someone has read somewhere. It's adjustable, the bearing friction is decent for what it is, and there's never any slop there. For the price, the 1200 is a good performer.
Agreed. That’s why I asked. They never specify the so-called “weakness”. Just nonsense. Thanks
@@MODAC Yep, the only thing anyone will ever cite is that a removable headshell is a point of resonance, and a one-piece arm has better rigidity. In the real world, the only thing that I see as a shortcoming of removable headshells is that there's some looseness in the fitting that could affect azimuth - but only if you have a very critical stylus shape and you are not paying attention enough to check it. Bottom line, people just love to appear intelligent in the process of poo-pooing others' gear.