Built quite a few of these as a rally/race engine apprentice back in the seventies. Pretty solid old lumps as proven by the 50 years that have since past and they’re still popular. Always found the factory inlet ports were already too big and slow for much power up to 4,000 rpm as they gave poor inlet velocity/fuel suspension/swirl & burn so was pleased to see the pretty reasonable power around 6,000rpm that you achieved quite easily - making it pretty good fun on track I guess! Nice work buddy, thank you! 😁
Very interesting, when I ran a 2.1 Pinto in a kit car I recall getting to about 160 bhp wasn't too expensive but the next 10 bhp cost me rather a lot; a bit like when you want more from your hi-fi.
More power, better hi fi, or lower weight on a bike; the first few gains are easy and cheap, but it gets more and more difficult and expensive for smaller and smaller gains.
@@20alphabet Found the specs, knew they were around someplace. The mob that built this is Peter Larner Engines in Victoria, Australia. They specialise in Formula Fords and historic race cars. If you are UK based there are no doubt plenty of builders over there who could help you out. Cheers Stroke 76.9mm Bore 92.00 2092cc Comp Ratio of 10.8:1 Standard crank H Beam Steel Conrods 5.00" JE Custom Pistons ARP Head Stud Kit ARP Main Stud Kit ARP Flywheel bolts Lightened and balanced Flywheel Heavy Duty clutch Ported the head Inlet valves 44.5mm Exhaust valves 38mm Competition valve springs Competition Camshaft Ported inlet manifold 45mm Webers 38mm chokes 160 Main jets 180 A/C Hp 185@7000rpm
Plenty of good info in your pinto videos as usual. Do you know how far out the webers are, compared to the regular 32/36? I'd like to swap over on mine, but not sure if my brake booster would be in the way.
That all depends, on a short manifold with short ram pipes they won’t stick out any further than a 32/36, but longer is better for power. I’m guessing your car is LHD which I have no experience of so I can’t give specifics
i will if i get time. Although one really good thing about having the dyno is i dont need to pre set the cam timing. I can just run the engine, change the cam timing and re run it overlaying the power curves.
@@PenguinMotors thats right, one more Q, i have seen on newmans page that cam PH4 and more needs to do some machining on pistion crowns for valve clearance. But i am not sure if that is for all their cams as you did not mentioned any of that. I am also interested to buy newman PH4 to my standard 2.0 pinto (EFI, but i will do conversation to 40 DCOE) THX )
@@PenguinMotors it's had a total rebuild and been bored out to just under 2.1. the head has been fully reconditioned but is standard for now, Hoping to get big valve head down the line. I'm currently running Yamaha r1 carbs 2 mm jets. I don't need engine to rev over 6000 but want it to be a good fast road engine, personally would prefer the low end torque, just struggling on a cam choice any help would be appreciated 👍
hi im building a pinto using 205 block big valve head ,ported std pistons il be using it for fast road on mostly country lanes ,thought about newman ph4 but not sure if it would drive ok in the town at 20 30 mph ,dont want to be kangerooing at low speeds
@@PenguinMotorsin the video you said the bottom end is completly stock. Even if the block is decked flush, using 43cc and standard gasket of 1.6, results a 10.2:1 comp. I am really trying to understand why the results are differing so much
To be honest it was that long ago i really dont remember, its always possible i miss quoted the compression, unfortunaly whatever number my brain says isnt alway what comes out my mouth! Possibly its even a video we made whilst i had covid which turned my brain to mush. I know we did record one whilst i had it and there were errors in it. Sorry i just dont have a better answer, especially so many videos/engine builds dyno runs ago.
? - I put another air cleaner on a 73 pinto 2.0 and was wondering how to hook valve cover breather to the air cleaner. for the past 3 yrs, I just have some marine carpet with a clamp where you'd hook the hose on the oil breather? ON YOUR SET UP HERE, does your oil cap have a hose for connecting somewhere??
for dyno running i don't connect the breathers, and because i always use a cam cover with a splash shield under the filler hole i dont even run them with a an oil filler cap
I have a 73 Ford Pinto with a 2.0 h.o engine from Britain, I wanna get her up to 150hp she currently makes 90hp I wanna leave the bottom end alone but get better cam and so on I already re did the valves, any tips?
@@PenguinMotors thanks my goal is to put a roll cage in her and give her abit more hp and race her with the SCCA or the historic Ford leagues and she can still be street legal also.
Done it, there are some small gains to be had, manifold mods too. Videos will be coming early next year, or get yourself a copy of January classic Ford magazine
The Cologne 2.0 was capable of high rpm use. The Liam 2.3 was more suited to low rpm operation with an automatic transmission. I have owned several Pinto's and really loved the 2.0 over the2.3 by wide margins!
@@Sierraman59 the tuning guide is wrong, the 205 block is better if you want to rebore the block to a big size like 93mm or bigger, otherwise its no different and its 2kg lighter
its horses for courses, sure an s2000 makes good numbers, but there will always be those that want the correct engine type in their car, and thats what im about improving classic engines :)
Built quite a few of these as a rally/race engine apprentice back in the seventies. Pretty solid old lumps as proven by the 50 years that have since past and they’re still popular. Always found the factory inlet ports were already too big and slow for much power up to 4,000 rpm as they gave poor inlet velocity/fuel suspension/swirl & burn so was pleased to see the pretty reasonable power around 6,000rpm that you achieved quite easily - making it pretty good fun on track I guess! Nice work buddy, thank you! 😁
My new favourite youtube channel!
Brilliant video. Real evidence and not just pub talk.
Keep em coming 👍
Much appreciated, there will be more to follow
picked up the head the other day. as always, top job, thankyou penguin motors
Very interesting, when I ran a 2.1 Pinto in a kit car I recall getting to about 160 bhp wasn't too expensive but the next 10 bhp cost me rather a lot; a bit like when you want more from your hi-fi.
More power, better hi fi, or lower weight on a bike; the first few gains are easy and cheap, but it gets more and more difficult and expensive for smaller and smaller gains.
Well, that's an interesting video! Real engine, real changes!
Can't wait for the comparison with the 40, and even better the DGAV!!!
From the factory in 1970, this engine was constricted with EPA required addon equipment to limit emissions. They really hampered this engine.
I had a 2.3L with a 615 lift Cam 12.l pistons 6" rod's 10.000 rpm launch 8.200 RPM 300 HP 50 webers 200 miles per hour 5 speed
Now this is interesting 👍
glad you think so, theres much more in the pipeline
Excellent video 👍 only just come across your channel, subbed 👍
thanks glad you liked it, plenty more pinto stuff in the pipeline
I built a British Phone Booth. Pip Pip
The engine is cool too!
Great info, keen to see how the twin 40's goes
It’s coming soon, first On a standard engine then this one
My little mk1 makes 180 odd hp with the pinto, 45's, gts1k Kent cam and head work. Its plenty enough for the street.
I'd like to know more about it.
Dream on
@@jellybaby7 "Larner Race Engines" Cheers and GFY.
@@20alphabet
Found the specs, knew they were around someplace. The mob that built this is Peter Larner Engines in Victoria, Australia.
They specialise in Formula Fords and historic race cars. If you are UK based there are no doubt plenty of builders over there who could help you out.
Cheers
Stroke 76.9mm Bore 92.00
2092cc
Comp Ratio of 10.8:1
Standard crank
H Beam Steel Conrods 5.00"
JE Custom Pistons
ARP Head Stud Kit
ARP Main Stud Kit
ARP Flywheel bolts
Lightened and balanced Flywheel
Heavy Duty clutch
Ported the head
Inlet valves 44.5mm Exhaust valves 38mm
Competition valve springs
Competition Camshaft
Ported inlet manifold
45mm Webers 38mm chokes
160 Main jets 180 A/C
Hp 185@7000rpm
Ported polished blueprinted to the max
Plenty of good info in your pinto videos as usual. Do you know how far out the webers are, compared to the regular 32/36? I'd like to swap over on mine, but not sure if my brake booster would be in the way.
That all depends, on a short manifold with short ram pipes they won’t stick out any further than a 32/36, but longer is better for power. I’m guessing your car is LHD which I have no experience of so I can’t give specifics
Grande lavoro ben fatto
great video! is the bottom end stock?
completely stock high mileage engine, no upgrades whatso ever, its not even been rebuilt.
nice video, when is the comparison vid of the 40's released ?
later in the year, but if you want a preview you can read about the test in next issue of classic ford magazine
i would love ,that you would test kent xflow 1300 ccm engines to:-) thanks
Please can you make also video on that adjustable cam pulley how did you set cam timing? Thanks )
i will if i get time. Although one really good thing about having the dyno is i dont need to pre set the cam timing. I can just run the engine, change the cam timing and re run it overlaying the power curves.
@@PenguinMotors thats right, one more Q, i have seen on newmans page that cam PH4 and more needs to do some machining on pistion crowns for valve clearance. But i am not sure if that is for all their cams as you did not mentioned any of that. I am also interested to buy newman PH4 to my standard 2.0 pinto (EFI, but i will do conversation to 40 DCOE) THX )
Why do you. Settle for dips early in the graph
Great videos👌 could you recommend a good fast road cam for a rebuilt 2lt pinto running twin 45s?
what else has been done to the engine? whats more important good power under 3000rpm or the ability to rev past 6,000?
@@PenguinMotors it's had a total rebuild and been bored out to just under 2.1. the head has been fully reconditioned but is standard for now, Hoping to get big valve head down the line. I'm currently running Yamaha r1 carbs 2 mm jets. I don't need engine to rev over 6000 but want it to be a good fast road engine, personally would prefer the low end torque, just struggling on a cam choice any help would be appreciated 👍
what about big valves with standard cam? how much can i gain=
Is better change both valves or just the exghaust one?
You won’t gain a lot of power with big valves and standard cam 5bhp maybe
Inlet valve is more important
hi im building a pinto using 205 block big valve head ,ported std pistons il be using it for fast road on mostly country lanes ,thought about newman ph4 but not sure if it would drive ok in the town at 20 30 mph ,dont want to be kangerooing at low speeds
yes it shoudl be able to drive ok at 20-30mph if teh engine is set up correctly
How is the compression ratio rated to 10.9:1 with 43cc and standard gasket?
I've made the calculations and the result is around 10:1
This is years old so I really dont remember but Deck height of piston makes a big difference to calculations
@@PenguinMotorsin the video you said the bottom end is completly stock. Even if the block is decked flush, using 43cc and standard gasket of 1.6, results a 10.2:1 comp. I am really trying to understand why the results are differing so much
To be honest it was that long ago i really dont remember, its always possible i miss quoted the compression, unfortunaly whatever number my brain says isnt alway what comes out my mouth! Possibly its even a video we made whilst i had covid which turned my brain to mush. I know we did record one whilst i had it and there were errors in it. Sorry i just dont have a better answer, especially so many videos/engine builds dyno runs ago.
I've got about three of those , plus a 1.6 in a capri , I've got the injection system also , this isn't a boast I don't know what to do with them ?
you could send them to me????
when you say "choke" are you talking about, what we would refer to in the states as, the venturis??
yes
? - I put another air cleaner on a 73 pinto 2.0 and was wondering how to hook valve cover breather to the air cleaner. for the past 3 yrs, I just have some marine carpet with a clamp where you'd hook the hose on the oil breather? ON YOUR SET UP HERE, does your oil cap have a hose for connecting somewhere??
for dyno running i don't connect the breathers, and because i always use a cam cover with a splash shield under the filler hole i dont even run them with a an oil filler cap
325 ring and pinon 9in
I have a 73 Ford Pinto with a 2.0 h.o engine from Britain, I wanna get her up to 150hp she currently makes 90hp I wanna leave the bottom end alone but get better cam and so on I already re did the valves, any tips?
twin carbs, more compression and hot cam will do it
@@PenguinMotors thanks my goal is to put a roll cage in her and give her abit more hp and race her with the SCCA or the historic Ford leagues and she can still be street legal also.
@@Ford17x cool although over here most people want more than 150bhp for the road car!
@@PenguinMotors not me as long as I can push 120hp out of a 2000 pound car ill be happy, ill be able to race with 300hp+ cars depending on weight...
What about just modifying the original twin choke Weber. Must be some numbers there. Carb, head ,cam , valves and headers.Be a mighty road car.
Done it, there are some small gains to be had, manifold mods too. Videos will be coming early next year, or get yourself a copy of January classic Ford magazine
40cc 148 172 valves Head
the german-made 2.0 was always a better engine than the american-made 2.3
That said I seem to recall in Europe the cologne V6 was preferred which is Europe had a 2.0 v6
Esslinger make good power with the American Pinto.ua-cam.com/video/pv6h9auhMPQ/v-deo.html
The Cologne 2.0 was capable of high rpm use. The Liam 2.3 was more suited to low rpm operation with an automatic transmission. I have owned several Pinto's and really loved the 2.0 over the2.3 by wide margins!
it"s a 2.0 or 205 bloc ? Thx
Its a 205, but that doesnt really matter a 2.0 block would of given exactly the same results
@@PenguinMotors ok, because Burton Power tuning guide says the 2.0 bloc is limited for tuning. ( sorry for my bad english ) :)
@@Sierraman59 the tuning guide is wrong, the 205 block is better if you want to rebore the block to a big size like 93mm or bigger, otherwise its no different and its 2kg lighter
Weber, Fabricado en España.
Yes Spanish Webers
@@PenguinMotors They are made at Guadalajara, near 80Km from my home Madrid.
Why are you not giving timing your loosing power
Lumpy lumpy lumpy 300 something duration I cannot remember the duration it's been twenty years since I built that I gave it to my daughter
Everything I did to that engine cost me ten thousand plus
It sounded like a V8
Sorry but you sound like george roper off George and Mildred 🤣🤣
Only on video not real life! I did have a family member that was a dead ringer for him, Your not the first to say I sound like George though
Having a sense of humour is 👌 I do love your work
2.4is better power
yes a 2.4 would give more power, BUT making engines bigger tends to have a much bigger effect on torque than poweroutput
Dump that boat anchor, and drop an S 2000 motor.
its horses for courses, sure an s2000 makes good numbers, but there will always be those that want the correct engine type in their car, and thats what im about improving classic engines :)