Thank you. this has proved my point ... Back in the 1980s I ran a garage in Wales called Jim Transit Autos. I had so many discussions with guys and their capris about putting on the 38 or the 40 dfav instead of the 32/36 dgas. But the lads knew better and fitted the 38/38 and the 40/40 on their stock 1.6 and 2.0 pintos and wondered why my mildly tuned 2.0 with its short duration (266) with high lift (.500) cam, 10.5:1 ratio C>R 4 Peco 4 Branch with full peco system a 32/36 DGMV would piss all over them and still stay very drivable. Bring back the good old days.
Been a long while since I seen the words “full Peco exhaust system” in a sentence. I was just a skinny lad back then and always wanted bigger carbs, bigger cams. 😂 my old man always kept me grounded and my cars flew. God I miss him…
Those DGVs are sooo under-rated!! I put one on a stock 2.0 Zetec as a temporary measure until I could afford some twin 45 DCOEs. It made 159 bhp / 162 ft/lb on the dyno so I never bothered with the DCOEs in the end! 👍
Here in Australia, a lot of people fit the 32/36 to Datsun L20B, but my old boss fitted 34 ADM Weber from Ford 4.1 litre 6 cylinder, and they worked very well.
I tested a 38dgas on my 2 litre mk1 escort, it ran sooty rich and apart from the throttle becoming super sensitive because two barrels are opening simultaneously it made no noticeable difference in overall performance. With the right mods it may give a very slight advantage, but alternative set ups are probably much more worthwhile. The old sequential Webbers were pretty good for everyday road use.
Had to fix a customers essex 6 capri many yrs ago..said it wasnt running right & he thought it was blocked jet passages..It would only run on one bank of 3 cylinders until about ⅓ throttle when the other bank of 3 would kick in.. He had fitted a 32/36 progressive off of a pinto from a breakers yard thinking they were the same 🤦♂️ The inlet manifold has a casting that blanks one bank from the other hence the dead bank at partial opening.
Very interesting video. The results show clearly it's not just about the bore of the carb, or bigger is better, it's about getting the right ratio of air and fuel into the engine and matching it to what the inlet manifold can deliver!👍
Yep my testing was done on the drag strip and no difference in ET or MPH going from 32/36 to 38DGAS. The main difference was throttle response from down low so the drivability did change
On that DFI5 carb, the emulsion tube profile and lack of power valve fights against you all the time. Just as it against David Vizard and David Anton in 1977 and again when the same comparison was done by APT. Great work🥝✔️
because after the first couple of jet swaps the airs were smaller than the mains, which doesnt work properly, so going even smaller just doesnt work. the real problem was the 32mm chokes
From the early dyno runs curve I think the 40/40 should have had the air compensator jet reduced in size, rather than just making the main jet bigger, which was a bit of a kludge. But I guess it doesn't really change the result as all curves 32/36 vs 40/40 were basically same. P.S. I solder and redrill jets if I need to make them smaller, even air tube jet ends :D Never had problems with this method as solder sticks so well to brass. I also use solder flux to be sure.
ive been soldering jets up for nearly 40 years! use electrical solder and you dont have to worry about flux. Re air correctors, they only change the AFR at the top of the rev range, but it was lean right through going very lean at the top. we already had airs smaller than the mains which is a bit of a no no so going smaller on the airs wasnt really an option. the main take away from this is really that the carb is huge, but only gave a small power increase, the carb isnt the limiting factor to power here
@@PenguinMotors thanks for reply, I like seeing carb jets drilled ua-cam.com/video/VQVKXAm9QJo/v-deo.html (or soldered closed and redrilled) as its kind of a hot-rod thing to do as its "naughty" and $0 mod.
I needed a 2.3 carb. I was joking at my parts wholesaler about it. He pulled out two brand new 5200 motorcraft carbs. One was perfect. I always change the idle jets at a fixed throttle position just below where the primary boosters start to trickle. So it's totally on the low speed circuit only. Looking at the air fuel ratio display. After that then I can change the main jets. Also at a fixed rpms just below when the secondary boosters start flowing. So I know the primary circuits are all that is flowing. So when I get to the secondary main jets at 3/4 to WOT. I then know which way to go on the secondary main jets. I do this on full size carbs too. One owner complained he could not pull away from any stop sign without spinning the tires no matter how easily he tipped into the throttle. Dont forget that when you are accelerating the engine you are opening the power valve. So as the manifold vacuum comes up at high revs. The power valve closed and leans out the engine.
As someone who tinkers with Pintos too, I really like this kind of content. But I have one little piece of criticism, I think it would be important to list the specs of the engine, what head it has and what's been done to it, valve sizes, what sort of cam etc. It would make the data shown much more useable for people watching these videos, thinking about what they might wanna implement on their own builds. Other than that awesome, I'll keep an keen eye on your videos in the future too!
there always a balance between adding info and making the videos too long, especially if the point of the video is a test on one particular component. what i will be doing is adding a few videos where i do exactly that give a spec and some power figures. in this instance the engine had an almost standard carb head skimmed 20 thou, only other work done to it was 3 angle valve seats on the standard valves and a very minor bit of smoothing to the port short turns. cam was a oval racing cam, bottom end was standard apart from a 20 thou skim to the block
@@PenguinMotors I agree, maybe just showing a short spec sheet in text form would be enough? No need to explain everything in full detail every video. Thanks for the reply!
i remember many years ago we had a client who swapped a pair of 40's for a twinchoke, he said his car went much better afterwards. when i looked at his manifold/carbs i found the linkage was assembled wrongly and he never had more than 1/2 throttle on the 40's. So yes a twinchoke might give more power than a pair of 40's which are faulty or jetted wrongly but all things being equal that wont be the case, especially not an an x/flow manifold which isnt as good as a pinto one
Spot on pal only just come across your video but great stuff and couldn't agree more, i banger raced for years using pintos with different webbers on but always went back to a 32 35 dgav, i always fancied making a manifold and trying 2 of them on one engine
gee whiz, ...... the cam belt flex / distortion with whip @ high rpm was significant, looked like is was pulling advance into cam timing, which would usually drop top end power
Alright, I'm feeling a lot better about this Holley I got for $20. Throttle plates are 40mm with vacuum secondaries that ought not over-flow...? Will top a weiand 7274 split 1/4 2/3 4bbl intake - AND I have the 1/4 2/3 exhaust similar to yours here. The plan is to join them into 1 (out the back instead of under my seat!) soon, much like you've got here. If 40s per cylinder works well, then this setup should, too, right...? I'LL FIND OUT ANYWAY
Thank you for the great videos, I find them well done and very informative. Interestingly I bought a Weber 40 DFI about 20 years ago that I intended on using on a two litre BMW but I never did fit the carb before selling the car, now twenty years later I find myself looking at the DFI that sits on my shelf and I was thinking that I could use it on my mildly tuned crossflow. My thought was that the DFI would be similar to fitting a single 40 DCOE, after all, it's a 40mm carb with 32mm chokes but it is now clear that it is not as simple as that and I am now scrapping that idea. I am playing with a couple of crossflows, one on twin 40 DCOEs and the other will remain with a downdraft of either a 28/36 DCD or 32/36 DGV. I would love to converse with you in greater depth on such topics as removing the choke stranger flaps, deleting the troublesome power valve and consequences of heating or not heating the inlet manifold?
I have not tested a 28/36 against a 32/36 but I think almost certainly say the 32/36 would make more power. Don’t bother removing choke flaps from the 32/36 you won’t see a useful gain for all the pain. On a road car with a sane cam I would NOT remove the power valve it has a very useful function it allows you to run leaner at part throttle and get a richer mixture flat out. Without it if you jet for max power it will be rich at part throttle. In my experience the power valves are actually very reliable
@@PenguinMotors Thank you for the fast reply but I guess that I should have elaborated a bit more on my intentions. I am not looking for maximum power but rather a nice, responsive street engine for my 100e Anglia. The engine spec is mild with +.090 1300 pistons, slightly larger valves in a lightly ported alloy head and 280 degree cam. The 28/36 DCD Weber I have here is choked at 27 and 28 and is jetted as per a 1700 Ford V4 so I thought it might work well as a mild mannered street carb. The reason I was asking about the removal of the DGAV choke flaps was not because I am trying to get more power but because I acquired the DGAV with all it's choke parts removed and didn't know if it's worth looking for the replacement parts, the car will only ever be used in the warmer months anyway. The other question was about the GT inlet manifold hotspot that normally has the heating water flowing out from the cylinder head into the manifold floor area, my cylinder head is an aftermarket alloy head and that passage to the water jacket has not been opened so I did not know if the cold manifold would be an issue at all on a car that's only driven in nice weather? Sorry for all the seemingly silly questions and I don't want to waste your time, if your shop was closer to me I would reward you with a nice used DFI-5 that is obviously surplus to my needs. Thanks again and I will be watching for your videos.
without manifold heating you will probably be fine in warm weather, if you get a problem it will be carb icing, where ice builds up over the aux vent opening and eventually you loose power as it stops drawing fuel through the mains, wait a few mins and the ice will disappear and you will wonder what happened.
I had a capri 2000s with American slott mags and side Webber carbs , k&n filters., and i thaught I was the dogs bollocks. NOW I buy JDM but the capri was the best car they ever made .
Great video!!! Your knowledge is impressive. I have a stock mustang efi 2.3 Lima with a svo lower intake manifold ported and modified to accept a carb. Long tube headers with a spark arrestor. Would you recommend a Webber 38/38 ?
Does putting a spacer under the carburetor effect the performance? You could make a bunch of 1/2 inch spacers and keep adding them to see if it makes any difference
@@PenguinMotors Thanks for the prompt reply and extra informative videos. I have been impressed by the Argentinian TC cars with their 250 cu in inline ohv sixes that run a 2 barrel downdraft weber on a spaced inlet manifold and rev to astonishing levels with an F1 sound.ua-cam.com/video/aUphn6egO-Y/v-deo.html
Has anyone recently tried the old Ford Group One downdraft manifold that mounted either a pair of twin-choke downdraft Solexes or downdraft 40IDF Webers ? I ask because there now some very cheap, Chinese, clones of the 40IDF available that work well after a little fettling; air-cooled VW Beetle tuners apparently love them.
hey mate ive got standard 2.0 pinto with mild street cam with 32 36 weber what jets should i run please ? it is a australian smog carb which i was a bit reluctant to keep but it will do for now cheers mate
You clearly have extensive knowledge of the pinto and great facilities but I’m not sure where the channel is going; should it be in quest of the ultimate Pinto?
I like lots of engines so it’s never going to be pinto only. I just see it as information. Before the advent of Facebook people looked to forums for knowledge, which were and are still good in that the information stays put and is searchable. Facebook stuff gets buried and the same questions keep coming up
you wont see any difference dyno testing, ive driven cars with both carbs, the 38 tends to feel snapper at small openings, which is no surprise, it also give a hesitation light throttle in the progression phase
the air correctors were already small, idle circuit wasnt blocked but in any case it has no bearing on WOT, the fact is if you use a carb which has venturi's that are way to big for the rest of the setup you simply cant jet your way out of it and get the AFR correct everywhere.
Hi love your work on 32/36 weber carburetors. Can you pls help. I want my 32/36 weber carburetor to work off both barrels at the same time like 38/38 weber. Any help 🙏
@@ritchiesridemk1vwbuild853 because full throttle is full throttle, you gain no power by that modification, you just loose the good point about the 32/36 the fact it is a progressive carburettor, the 38/38 only has synchronised throttles because its designed for each side of the carb to feed only half of a v6 engine
Probably will at some point, although there won’t be much difference EFI tends to work better lower down in the Rev range and tends to make a couple of horsepower less at the top. But it doesn’t change the power curve that mainly dictated by the cam
@@PenguinMotors it would be good to see what it can pick up lower down compaired to the carbs/mechanical ignition. Also an interesting one, Not sure if you have seen them but there is a Ford Falcon low pressure throttle body. Its like a 38Dgas but Efi. Interesting bit of kit.
or an alternative title, "we put a mk4 zephyr/zodiac 3l V6 carb on a pinto... my dads 1972 zephyr carb used to distort on the base regularly, causing him to file it back to true. he has now run out of carbs to file flat, so has moved onto 38DGAS granada carbs, they seem to stay flat much longer, his file has not been out for the past 10 yrs... would smaller air correction jets not richen it at top end?
@@paulriggers1558 I guess its possible he was, the standard zephyr carb isnt the Ferrari one, but the Ferrari carb was used as the V6 Capri group one racing carb so it would of fitted his Zephyr
yes it is/was the origonal dyno do engine, bottom end was totally stock, for this test it had a head which had very slight porting on the short turn on the intakes and an oval racing cam
I kinda hate that carb... Same model (Built by Holley) was found on every American Chevette I had, and all eventually suffered the same issue: Hunting idle after many years of service. Makes me wish I'd swap the the Holley Model-2305 (2-Bbl. secondary) version of the Holley 2300-series... of which a Motorcraft-made version (Of the latter) being what was found on the Pinto 4-cyl in America! \:[
we already had pretty small air correctors. part of the problem here is that the 40dfi5 carb doesnt have a power valve or high speed enrichment, because it wasnt origonally intended to be run as a single carb on a 4 cylinder, its best used like dcoes, one choke per cylinder on an individule runner setup
timing is largely a function of compression ratio, combustion chamber and volumetric efficency, jet changes have next to no effect to ignition timing requirements
Just shows bigger is not always better , what are you looking for at full chat @3% ? on the F2 Pinto hotrods i was getting 7-8% at full chat with the 38 DGAS ... and anything from 165 to 178 ... 8200 on stock rods and pistons !!! didnt have many cuck rods more ringlands than anything .... Pinto's rule as the iron dog for sure and long from dead .... PS guess what ive found lol
GIles what % are you referring to? CO? in which case i have no idea i as i use an AFR wideband O2 meter not a gas analyser. What have you found a Dgas? the DF15 did show a midrange power gain so im sure the engine could use a bigger carb the intake just didnt allow it to work at high rpm, i suspect a holley 4 barrel manifold would of worked better with the big carb.
@@MrRossKendall hi Ross, your edelbrock carb will be way way too big, but if we had a manifold to fit it to a pinto we could try it, i suspect the 40DFI5 would of worked better with a holley manifold. we could always try your carb on a V8 rover sometime :)
@@PenguinMotors Ok so your going for the 14.7.1 bit so in the green lol ... dont you sometimes find some engines like it rich others on the lean side ... i found with my Pinto years ago it liked just over 4% full chat ..... dyno what a tool to have !
Thank you. this has proved my point ... Back in the 1980s I ran a garage in Wales called Jim Transit Autos. I had so many discussions with guys and their capris about putting on the 38 or the 40 dfav instead of the 32/36 dgas.
But the lads knew better and fitted the 38/38 and the 40/40 on their stock 1.6 and 2.0 pintos and wondered why my mildly tuned 2.0 with its short duration (266) with high lift (.500) cam, 10.5:1 ratio C>R 4 Peco 4 Branch with full peco system a 32/36 DGMV would piss all over them and still stay very drivable.
Bring back the good old days.
Been a long while since I seen the words “full Peco exhaust system” in a sentence. I was just a skinny lad back then and always wanted bigger carbs, bigger cams. 😂 my old man always kept me grounded and my cars flew. God I miss him…
Those DGVs are sooo under-rated!! I put one on a stock 2.0 Zetec as a temporary measure until I could afford some twin 45 DCOEs. It made 159 bhp / 162 ft/lb on the dyno so I never bothered with the DCOEs in the end! 👍
Hi Marcus thanks for the comment, love your channel by the way
@@PenguinMotors 👍 👍 👍
Marcus re Your ST170 and cam timing. It depends on how you look at it . When you are retarding the cam you Advance the crank!
Here in Australia, a lot of people fit the 32/36 to Datsun L20B, but my old boss fitted 34 ADM Weber from Ford 4.1 litre 6 cylinder, and they worked very well.
Now i know why the 38dgas i put on my 2.0 pinto back in the day felt no quicker.All it did was drink more fuel.
I tested a 38dgas on my 2 litre mk1 escort, it ran sooty rich and apart from the throttle becoming super sensitive because two barrels are opening simultaneously it made no noticeable difference in overall performance. With the right mods it may give a very slight advantage, but alternative set ups are probably much more worthwhile. The old sequential Webbers were pretty good for everyday road use.
Had to fix a customers essex 6 capri many yrs ago..said it wasnt running right & he thought it was blocked jet passages..It would only run on one bank of 3 cylinders until about ⅓ throttle when the other bank of 3 would kick in..
He had fitted a 32/36 progressive off of a pinto from a breakers yard thinking they were the same 🤦♂️
The inlet manifold has a casting that blanks one bank from the other hence the dead bank at partial opening.
Very interesting video. The results show clearly it's not just about the bore of the carb, or bigger is better, it's about getting the right ratio of air and fuel into the engine and matching it to what the inlet manifold can deliver!👍
I love your channel. Very good job covering a subject that interests me, the 2300 Ford. I use one in a pulling garden tractor.
Yep my testing was done on the drag strip and no difference in ET or MPH going from 32/36 to 38DGAS. The main difference was throttle response from down low so the drivability did change
There you go, the drag strip although having many variables is another form of dyno test
Put the air filter back on, that should drop the lean out. Ran a 2.3 back in the 80's from a 76 Pinto, thing was surprising.
Love you on Turbosport Forum love you on UA-cam keep the Ford stuff coming
Remembering buying a new DFI5 Webber for my 3.0s Capri , Went rather well !
great content. fully satisfies my carburetor, dyno, test cravings. so glad i found your channel.
On that DFI5 carb, the emulsion tube profile and lack of power valve fights against you all the time. Just as it against David Vizard and David Anton in 1977 and again when the same comparison was done by APT. Great work🥝✔️
Graham if you are reading this, if it was going lean at top end, why did you not go smaller on the airs rather than just trying to go up on the mains?
because after the first couple of jet swaps the airs were smaller than the mains, which doesnt work properly, so going even smaller just doesnt work. the real problem was the 32mm chokes
From the early dyno runs curve I think the 40/40 should have had the air compensator jet reduced in size, rather than just making the main jet bigger, which was a bit of a kludge. But I guess it doesn't really change the result as all curves 32/36 vs 40/40 were basically same.
P.S. I solder and redrill jets if I need to make them smaller, even air tube jet ends :D Never had problems with this method as solder sticks so well to brass. I also use solder flux to be sure.
ive been soldering jets up for nearly 40 years! use electrical solder and you dont have to worry about flux. Re air correctors, they only change the AFR at the top of the rev range, but it was lean right through going very lean at the top. we already had airs smaller than the mains which is a bit of a no no so going smaller on the airs wasnt really an option. the main take away from this is really that the carb is huge, but only gave a small power increase, the carb isnt the limiting factor to power here
@@PenguinMotors thanks for reply, I like seeing carb jets drilled ua-cam.com/video/VQVKXAm9QJo/v-deo.html (or soldered closed and redrilled) as its kind of a hot-rod thing to do as its "naughty" and $0 mod.
I needed a 2.3 carb. I was joking at my parts wholesaler about it. He pulled out two brand new 5200 motorcraft carbs. One was perfect.
I always change the idle jets at a fixed throttle position just below where the primary boosters start to trickle. So it's totally on the low speed circuit only. Looking at the air fuel ratio display.
After that then I can change the main jets. Also at a fixed rpms just below when the secondary boosters start flowing. So I know the primary circuits are all that is flowing. So when I get to the secondary main jets at 3/4 to WOT. I then know which way to go on the secondary main jets.
I do this on full size carbs too. One owner complained he could not pull away from any stop sign without spinning the tires no matter how easily he tipped into the throttle.
Dont forget that when you are accelerating the engine you are opening the power valve. So as the manifold vacuum comes up at high revs. The power valve closed and leans out the engine.
awesome test. would be good to measure manifold vacuum on tests like these.
Another excellent video.
That coming soon one looks a bit tasty 👍
As someone who tinkers with Pintos too, I really like this kind of content. But I have one little piece of criticism, I think it would be important to list the specs of the engine, what head it has and what's been done to it, valve sizes, what sort of cam etc. It would make the data shown much more useable for people watching these videos, thinking about what they might wanna implement on their own builds. Other than that awesome, I'll keep an keen eye on your videos in the future too!
there always a balance between adding info and making the videos too long, especially if the point of the video is a test on one particular component. what i will be doing is adding a few videos where i do exactly that give a spec and some power figures. in this instance the engine had an almost standard carb head skimmed 20 thou, only other work done to it was 3 angle valve seats on the standard valves and a very minor bit of smoothing to the port short turns. cam was a oval racing cam, bottom end was standard apart from a 20 thou skim to the block
@@PenguinMotors I agree, maybe just showing a short spec sheet in text form would be enough? No need to explain everything in full detail every video. Thanks for the reply!
The 3l carb i put on my x flow was a 38 dgas, so much better than the worn out twin 40s.
i remember many years ago we had a client who swapped a pair of 40's for a twinchoke, he said his car went much better afterwards. when i looked at his manifold/carbs i found the linkage was assembled wrongly and he never had more than 1/2 throttle on the 40's. So yes a twinchoke might give more power than a pair of 40's which are faulty or jetted wrongly but all things being equal that wont be the case, especially not an an x/flow manifold which isnt as good as a pinto one
Spot on pal only just come across your video but great stuff and couldn't agree more, i banger raced for years using pintos with different webbers on but always went back to a 32 35 dgav, i always fancied making a manifold and trying 2 of them on one engine
gee whiz, ...... the cam belt flex / distortion with whip @ high rpm was significant, looked like is was pulling advance into cam timing, which would usually drop top end power
You should team up with Stav Tech to do a UK Engine Masters!
Excellent... another great video, keep em coming 👌 The bike carbs v side draught webers dyno test has got me salivating 😃
Alright, I'm feeling a lot better about this Holley I got for $20. Throttle plates are 40mm with vacuum secondaries that ought not over-flow...? Will top a weiand 7274 split 1/4 2/3 4bbl intake - AND I have the 1/4 2/3 exhaust similar to yours here. The plan is to join them into 1 (out the back instead of under my seat!) soon, much like you've got here. If 40s per cylinder works well, then this setup should, too, right...? I'LL FIND OUT ANYWAY
one 40mm throttle per cylinder is a totally different proposition to 2 x 40mm feeding the whole engine
@PenguinMotors exactly! I've a weiand 7274 4bbl so it splits the carb in half, 40mm to 1/4 & 2/3. Am I off-base?
Thank you for the great videos, I find them well done and very informative. Interestingly I bought a Weber 40 DFI about 20 years ago that I intended on using on a two litre BMW but I never did fit the carb before selling the car, now twenty years later I find myself looking at the DFI that sits on my shelf and I was thinking that I could use it on my mildly tuned crossflow. My thought was that the DFI would be similar to fitting a single 40 DCOE, after all, it's a 40mm carb with 32mm chokes but it is now clear that it is not as simple as that and I am now scrapping that idea. I am playing with a couple of crossflows, one on twin 40 DCOEs and the other will remain with a downdraft of either a 28/36 DCD or 32/36 DGV. I would love to converse with you in greater depth on such topics as removing the choke stranger flaps, deleting the troublesome power valve and consequences of heating or not heating the inlet manifold?
I have not tested a 28/36 against a 32/36 but I think almost certainly say the 32/36 would make more power. Don’t bother removing choke flaps from the 32/36 you won’t see a useful gain for all the pain. On a road car with a sane cam I would NOT remove the power valve it has a very useful function it allows you to run leaner at part throttle and get a richer mixture flat out. Without it if you jet for max power it will be rich at part throttle. In my experience the power valves are actually very reliable
@@PenguinMotors Thank you for the fast reply but I guess that I should have elaborated a bit more on my intentions. I am not looking for maximum power but rather a nice, responsive street engine for my 100e Anglia. The engine spec is mild with +.090 1300 pistons, slightly larger valves in a lightly ported alloy head and 280 degree cam. The 28/36 DCD Weber I have here is choked at 27 and 28 and is jetted as per a 1700 Ford V4 so I thought it might work well as a mild mannered street carb. The reason I was asking about the removal of the DGAV choke flaps was not because I am trying to get more power but because I acquired the DGAV with all it's choke parts removed and didn't know if it's worth looking for the replacement parts, the car will only ever be used in the warmer months anyway. The other question was about the GT inlet manifold hotspot that normally has the heating water flowing out from the cylinder head into the manifold floor area, my cylinder head is an aftermarket alloy head and that passage to the water jacket has not been opened so I did not know if the cold manifold would be an issue at all on a car that's only driven in nice weather? Sorry for all the seemingly silly questions and I don't want to waste your time, if your shop was closer to me I would reward you with a nice used DFI-5 that is obviously surplus to my needs. Thanks again and I will be watching for your videos.
without manifold heating you will probably be fine in warm weather, if you get a problem it will be carb icing, where ice builds up over the aux vent opening and eventually you loose power as it stops drawing fuel through the mains, wait a few mins and the ice will disappear and you will wonder what happened.
Can you also do a comparison between twin idf & dcoe carbs??
I would love to, but I don’t have any to test. If someone wants to lend me some or help with the cost of buying a set ………
I had a capri 2000s with American slott mags and side Webber carbs , k&n filters., and i thaught I was the dogs bollocks. NOW I buy JDM but the capri was the best car they ever made .
Great video!!! Your knowledge is impressive. I have a stock mustang efi 2.3 Lima with a svo lower intake manifold ported and modified to accept a carb. Long tube headers with a spark arrestor. Would you recommend a Webber 38/38 ?
a weber 32/36 is probably a better carb for economy and part throttle driving, but the 38/38 should work ok
Does putting a spacer under the carburetor effect the performance? You could make a bunch of 1/2 inch spacers and keep adding them to see if it makes any difference
We tried some spacers in another video and yes power did go up, although it doesn’t always
@@PenguinMotors Thanks for the prompt reply and extra informative videos. I have been impressed by the Argentinian TC cars with their 250 cu in inline ohv sixes that run a 2 barrel downdraft weber on a spaced inlet manifold and rev to astonishing levels with an F1 sound.ua-cam.com/video/aUphn6egO-Y/v-deo.html
what the compression and vacu?
Has anyone recently tried the old Ford Group One downdraft manifold that mounted either a pair of twin-choke downdraft Solexes or downdraft 40IDF Webers ?
I ask because there now some very cheap, Chinese, clones of the 40IDF available that work well after a little fettling; air-cooled VW Beetle tuners apparently love them.
In terms of power 44 IDFs will give around 15bhp more in most states of tune
hey mate ive got standard 2.0 pinto with mild street cam with 32 36 weber what jets should i run please ? it is a australian smog carb which i was a bit reluctant to keep but it will do for now cheers mate
Proper video, again.
Please keep them coming 😁
You clearly have extensive knowledge of the pinto and great facilities but I’m not sure where the channel is going; should it be in quest of the ultimate Pinto?
I like lots of engines so it’s never going to be pinto only. I just see it as information. Before the advent of Facebook people looked to forums for knowledge, which were and are still good in that the information stays put and is searchable. Facebook stuff gets buried and the same questions keep coming up
Keep up the god work!
32/36 to 38/38 top end not much, but what about how the engine drive being opening 2 throttles at once compared to staggered?
you wont see any difference dyno testing, ive driven cars with both carbs, the 38 tends to feel snapper at small openings, which is no surprise, it also give a hesitation light throttle in the progression phase
valuable info, thanks for the vid penquin
Hi excellent video just wondering what cam you running
it varys, but in this video it was a short circuit oval racing cam
Thanks for these great videos - subscribed!
Glad you like them!
Needs a smaller air corrector if its lean at the top and rich low down?. Idle circuit was probably blocked with all that crud
the air correctors were already small, idle circuit wasnt blocked but in any case it has no bearing on WOT, the fact is if you use a carb which has venturi's that are way to big for the rest of the setup you simply cant jet your way out of it and get the AFR correct everywhere.
Hi love your work on 32/36 weber carburetors. Can you pls help. I want my 32/36 weber carburetor to work off both barrels at the same time like 38/38 weber. Any help 🙏
you can buy linkages to do it , but its an utterly pointless modifcation
Hi thanks for your reply. Can I ask why are you saying that?
@@ritchiesridemk1vwbuild853 because full throttle is full throttle, you gain no power by that modification, you just loose the good point about the 32/36 the fact it is a progressive carburettor, the 38/38 only has synchronised throttles because its designed for each side of the carb to feed only half of a v6 engine
This guy looks like my twin
Can you put a 2inch spacer on the 40 twins. Have you seen Dan esslinger tune the 2.3 on Powernation. He had to put a diverted in the intake
Yes I have but the Esslinglinger set up while looking similar is a very different set up,
Any chance your going to run an EFI comparison? Just wondered how the power curve is comapired to the old world mechanical stuff.
Probably will at some point, although there won’t be much difference EFI tends to work better lower down in the Rev range and tends to make a couple of horsepower less at the top. But it doesn’t change the power curve that mainly dictated by the cam
@@PenguinMotors it would be good to see what it can pick up lower down compaired to the carbs/mechanical ignition. Also an interesting one, Not sure if you have seen them but there is a Ford Falcon low pressure throttle body. Its like a 38Dgas but Efi. Interesting bit of kit.
or an alternative title, "we put a mk4 zephyr/zodiac 3l V6 carb on a pinto...
my dads 1972 zephyr carb used to distort on the base regularly, causing him to file it back to true. he has now run out of carbs to file flat, so has moved onto 38DGAS granada carbs, they seem to stay flat much longer, his file has not been out for the past 10 yrs...
would smaller air correction jets not richen it at top end?
Mk4 zodiac carb was a 40DFAV, thats a different carb . This was a 40DFI5 with big 32 chokes. It had small airs
@@PenguinMotors thankyou, learning all the time, all these years my dad told me he was running a ferrari carb....
@@paulriggers1558 I guess its possible he was, the standard zephyr carb isnt the Ferrari one, but the Ferrari carb was used as the V6 Capri group one racing carb so it would of fitted his Zephyr
Hi I have this 40 Carb on a 71 V6 zodiac wonder if it has much potential please
Hi, was the intake flange bored up for the 40mm throttles?
yes it was opened up to suit
When I drill a jet, I also obliterate the original markings.
That way the next person will not be led astray by wrong #'s.
yes i file the size offthem too
Hi Graham, hope all is well. What was the specs of the dyno dog engine ? This is the dyno dog engine, is not it ?
yes it is/was the origonal dyno do engine, bottom end was totally stock, for this test it had a head which had very slight porting on the short turn on the intakes and an oval racing cam
@@PenguinMotors many thanks Graham. Is the oval racing cam one of the Kent cams ?
I kinda hate that carb... Same model (Built by Holley) was found on every American Chevette I had, and all eventually suffered the same issue: Hunting idle after many years of service. Makes me wish I'd swap the the Holley Model-2305 (2-Bbl. secondary) version of the Holley 2300-series... of which a Motorcraft-made version (Of the latter) being what was found on the Pinto 4-cyl in America! \:[
Run it with nitro.... you dont need jets.... just 6mm holes, and still it may be too lean :D
wouldn't it have been better to put smaller air correctors in?
we already had pretty small air correctors. part of the problem here is that the 40dfi5 carb doesnt have a power valve or high speed enrichment, because it wasnt origonally intended to be run as a single carb on a 4 cylinder, its best used like dcoes, one choke per cylinder on an individule runner setup
at what point do you adjust the air bleeds?
you dont, air bleeds are normally left shut
Excellent video👌👌👌 Cheers
Do you rebuild carbs?
Sorry no
Now you read plugs lol
i also read the afr gauge!
Jet changes and no timing changes 🎉
timing is largely a function of compression ratio, combustion chamber and volumetric efficency, jet changes have next to no effect to ignition timing requirements
Have you tried a 350 holly
its in the pipeline
@@PenguinMotors can’t wait
Your not getting enough pump🎉
good to no ,nice vid
Very interesting
thumbs up
I love 4 bang ford
Pinto ❤️
Alright I watch Ferrari carb
Dont touch on jets, :)
Just shows bigger is not always better , what are you looking for at full chat @3% ? on the F2 Pinto hotrods i was getting 7-8% at full chat with the 38 DGAS ... and anything from 165 to 178 ... 8200 on stock rods and pistons !!! didnt have many cuck rods more ringlands than anything .... Pinto's rule as the iron dog for sure and long from dead .... PS guess what ive found lol
GIles what % are you referring to? CO? in which case i have no idea i as i use an AFR wideband O2 meter not a gas analyser. What have you found a Dgas? the DF15 did show a midrange power gain so im sure the engine could use a bigger carb the intake just didnt allow it to work at high rpm, i suspect a holley 4 barrel manifold would of worked better with the big carb.
@@PenguinMotors can we try a 4 barrel carb? i got an edelbrock 500
@@MrRossKendall hi Ross, your edelbrock carb will be way way too big, but if we had a manifold to fit it to a pinto we could try it, i suspect the 40DFI5 would of worked better with a holley manifold. we could always try your carb on a V8 rover sometime :)
@@PenguinMotors Ok so your going for the 14.7.1 bit so in the green lol ... dont you sometimes find some engines like it rich others on the lean side ... i found with my Pinto years ago it liked just over 4% full chat ..... dyno what a tool to have !
@@gileshamilton4462 14.7 is ok for light throttle cruise, its way too lean for full power, usually most power comes somewhere between 12.5 and 13.5