Mower Mike, your approach and description of this type of valve adjustment is truly the best I have seen, and I am a small engine tech. I was not familiar with this adjuster, your video is a one stop complete education on the subject Hats off to you, Sir!
@@MowerMike I like this adjuster a lot more than the double nut stem adjuster. Adjusted once, not 3-4 times. Now, if it holds is another story! I have 42 plus years of wrenching experience, you're doing a great job.
Great video! My Deere 636m service manual has the specification of Valve Clearance (Intake and Exhaust) ..............0.05-0.10 mm (0.002-0.004 in). Great job!
When you turn the engine by hand, should you hear any suction sounds? Mine makes a sound in the near the intake like you're sucking up a little bit of gas or oil through a straw during one part of the stroke. Should I hear that? Checking it put bc it stalled and lost power randomly. It had bubbles in the oil dip stick. Thanks, mower Mike!
I have a head that I’m about to install and i have to tighten one of the bolts that attaches the head to the block but i have to remove the rocker arm. I don’t want to remove the rocker arm. What socket can I use or do you use?
So you mentioned boosting the horsepower. But you didn’t exactly touch on how you did that and I am greatly interested. So far I’ve had to replace the carburetor. I replaced it with a Chinese carburetor which didn’t work very well so I went and got an original Walboro carburetor. There was too much gap eight or 9 thousandths more specifically well over 007 in the number two cylinder exhaust rocker. I tightened that up. It’s closer to 005 right now. I’m having three separate issues number one not achieving 3600 RPM number two I burn up belts like crazy, but every other time I mow the lawn. Number three occasional backfiring once it starts to backfire it keeps on backfiring
Without seeing the valves how do you know what is intake or exhaust You stated 0.004 and 0.006 but you didn't explain at top dead center in the rocker cover what valve is on top? Thats critical to know to do proper adjustments. I have a cub cadet with a FH430v The valve lash is pretty much the same on most these motors Looking at the chart online and it says intake 0.004 and exhaust 0.006 i can only assume you adjust the intake (top) first but i don't know if thats the case and if they are reversed on the other cylinder side of the motor 0.002 isn't that much difference and the motor might run but it won't run right. It will either run lean or waste gas and run rough. I have to do my lawn tractor myself Ive got no way to take it to get serviced, and after changing the starter, and starter relay it still cranks slowly leading me to think the valve lash is wrong. Last time i used it it ran fine parked it for a few weeks and now won't start, last option is change battery But now i don't think it was any electrical components, just valve lash causing the problem. And for a 20 year old lawn tractor with about 300 hours on it that sounds about right.
intake stroke, compression stroke, combustion stroke, and exhaust stroke. exhaust stroke is what you referred to as the other top dead center. At that point the exhaust valve will be closing and the intake valve will be opening to start the process over. Intake stroke, will be a down stroke, ie piston moving downwards allowing air fuel mixture in. Compression,up stroke, valves must be closed to allow fuel air mixture to be compressed. Combustion,down stroke, engines spark plug fires,on most engines slightly before top dead center valves are still closed. Commonly referred to as power stroke. Gas air fuel mixture ignites (explosion) pushing piston and rod downward to spin the crank. This is why you want to run the proper fuel in an engine. If you have an engine that needs higher octane and you run lower octane then you risk the compression igniting the fuel before the spark plug ignites it. Heat and compression can cause ignition alone i.e detonation.Lower octane ignites easier than higher. Not related to most lawnmower engines but thought I'd add anyway. exhaust, up stroke, exhaust valve opens allowing burnt gasses to excape. Thats how ya get your 4 cycles. On the exhaust stroke as the piston comes up and is pushing the exhaust gaseses out, depending on valve timing, near or at top dead center the exhaust valve will be closing and the intake will start to open. Why there's pressure on the valves and why you don't want to try and adjust valves at that top dead center. I'm no expert just a diy guy but hopefully that clears some things up on that part of the video.
You gave the torque in ft lbs, not nm. It’s 8.7 ft lbs and 5.2 ft lbs respectively, or in nm 11 nm and 7.05 nm, which, as you stated is not much. 87 ft lbs is gonna ruin someone’s day.
It's routine maintenance...any small engine will need the valve lash adjusted every couple hundred hours. The only issue these Kawasaki FS/FX/FR engines are known for, from what I've heard over the years, is valve train problems due to lack of routine valve lash adjustments (letting the valve springs weaken, valves/valve guides/valve seats work themselves loose).
This is how a repair / maintenance video should be done. Excellent!
Appreciate that.
Just bought a zero turn with this Kawasaki engine. Your video is helpful. All of the negative people on here should post their “expert” way to do this
Haha thanks for the comment Rick. Guys love trying to correct me on here. Funny thing is women never provide those types of comments
Mower Mike, your approach and description of this type of valve adjustment is truly the best I have seen, and I am a small engine tech. I was not familiar with this adjuster, your video is a one stop complete education on the subject Hats off to you, Sir!
Wow well thanks. Most people just argue with me and my valve adjusting ways. Glad it helped
@@MowerMike I like this adjuster a lot more than the double nut stem adjuster. Adjusted once, not 3-4 times. Now, if it holds is another story! I have 42 plus years of wrenching experience, you're doing a great job.
Thanks man! This would probably explain my sputtering and popping I’m getting under heavy load. I’ll try and adjust my lash this weekend.
Maybe but sounds like it maybe more of a fuel or compression issue. Good luck
@@MowerMike thanks! I’ll figure it out
Cool video with the "Inside info" on full display!
Glad you enjoyed it. I have a whole series on this engine for your viewing pleasure
Very nice. Shows how combustion engines work while explaining the to do and not do for adjusting the valves
Thanks I try to make it simple, check out my other Kawasaki videos
Excellent Video: Cleary shows how the adjustment works, amazing how simple it is. Thank you!!
Yep is a sweet design, I am a big Kawasaki fan.
That valve train set up is slick, thank you.
Yep it is cool, very easy to mess with.
Changing jets on a holley carb, I always used cherry chapstick to prevent the bowl gasket from sticking.
Great old school trick, thanks
Great video! My Deere 636m service manual has the specification of Valve Clearance (Intake and Exhaust) ..............0.05-0.10 mm (0.002-0.004 in). Great job!
Glad it helped, it is a great engine
When you turn the engine by hand, should you hear any suction sounds? Mine makes a sound in the near the intake like you're sucking up a little bit of gas or oil through a straw during one part of the stroke. Should I hear that? Checking it put bc it stalled and lost power randomly. It had bubbles in the oil dip stick. Thanks, mower Mike!
Ya suction sounds are normal. But just like air suction sounds, not too sure about those gurgling suction sounds you are getting
I have a head that I’m about to install and i have to tighten one of the bolts that attaches the head to the block but i have to remove the rocker arm. I don’t want to remove the rocker arm. What socket can I use or do you use?
Pretty sure that rocker has to come off to get to all the head bolts. Use the socket that fits
Good video and what what I was looking for. Just FYI On a 4 stroke Intake, Compression, power, exhaust
Glad it helps. And yes you are right, I am just winging it here on these videos lol
Prebond is the sealant kawasaki uses for crank case and valve covers!
Ah thanks for the info.
So you mentioned boosting the horsepower. But you didn’t exactly touch on how you did that and I am greatly interested. So far I’ve had to replace the carburetor. I replaced it with a Chinese carburetor which didn’t work very well so I went and got an original Walboro carburetor. There was too much gap eight or 9 thousandths more specifically well over 007 in the number two cylinder exhaust rocker. I tightened that up. It’s closer to 005 right now. I’m having three separate issues number one not achieving 3600 RPM number two I burn up belts like crazy, but every other time I mow the lawn.
Number three occasional backfiring once it starts to backfire it keeps on backfiring
Sounds like it is running too rich. I would fix your mower before you try and boost horsepower. Good luck
@@MowerMike I intend to fix everything first but I am still curious how you “boost horsepower. What is your method?
Set my fr730 at .004 it is tapping when hot
They all make a little noise, I would just run it till it breaks.
Great video!!!
Glad it helped
I heard somewhere in another video to set them at .002 so by the time they warm it’s .004 🤔🤔🤔🤔
Whatever you want to do
Without seeing the valves how do you know what is intake or exhaust
You stated 0.004 and 0.006 but you didn't explain at top dead center in the rocker cover what valve is on top? Thats critical to know to do proper adjustments.
I have a cub cadet with a FH430v
The valve lash is pretty much the same on most these motors
Looking at the chart online and it says intake 0.004 and exhaust 0.006 i can only assume you adjust the intake (top) first but i don't know if thats the case and if they are reversed on the other cylinder side of the motor
0.002 isn't that much difference and the motor might run but it won't run right.
It will either run lean or waste gas and run rough.
I have to do my lawn tractor myself
Ive got no way to take it to get serviced, and after changing the starter, and starter relay it still cranks slowly leading me to think the valve lash is wrong.
Last time i used it it ran fine parked it for a few weeks and now won't start, last option is change battery
But now i don't think it was any electrical components, just valve lash causing the problem.
And for a 20 year old lawn tractor with about 300 hours on it that sounds about right.
The one closer to the exhaust manifold is the ???? You got this
Ty for sharing
You got it!
What’s the torque spec
You should Google that ;)
I like your shirt
Thanks Jimmy!
600 hours on my mower I guess it’s time for adjustment wouldn’t you say?
Can’t hurt to check
Pretty sure Kawasaki engine is made in usa
Yep they are
Like Mexico, they give kawasaki a bad name.
intake stroke, compression stroke, combustion stroke, and exhaust stroke.
exhaust stroke is what you referred to as the other top dead center. At that point the exhaust valve will be closing and the intake valve will be opening to start the process over.
Intake stroke, will be a down stroke, ie piston moving downwards allowing air fuel mixture in.
Compression,up stroke, valves must be closed to allow fuel air mixture to be compressed.
Combustion,down stroke, engines spark plug fires,on most engines slightly before top dead center valves are still closed. Commonly referred to as power stroke. Gas air fuel mixture ignites (explosion) pushing piston and rod downward to spin the crank. This is why you want to run the proper fuel in an engine. If you have an engine that needs higher octane and you run lower octane then you risk the compression igniting the fuel before the spark plug ignites it. Heat and compression can cause ignition alone i.e detonation.Lower octane ignites easier than higher. Not related to most lawnmower engines but thought I'd add anyway.
exhaust, up stroke, exhaust valve opens allowing burnt gasses to excape. Thats how ya get your 4 cycles.
On the exhaust stroke as the piston comes up and is pushing the exhaust gaseses out, depending on valve timing, near or at top dead center the exhaust valve will be closing and the intake will start to open. Why there's pressure on the valves and why you don't want to try and adjust valves at that top dead center. I'm no expert just a diy guy but hopefully that clears some things up on that part of the video.
Dang that is a great description. Wish I read this before I shot the video. Thanks!
That's why it's a 4 stroke 😅
The exhaust valve isn't the bigger valve. The bigger valve is going to be your intake valve. Your not a engine guy. Can't be to say that.
Nope am just a shade tree mechanic with a fancy camera phone.
@@MowerMikethat’s a fact 😢
@@philliphall5198 haha someone should take my UA-cam license away.
You gave the torque in ft lbs, not nm. It’s 8.7 ft lbs and 5.2 ft lbs respectively, or in nm 11 nm and 7.05 nm, which, as you stated is not much. 87 ft lbs is gonna ruin someone’s day.
I don’t even know what a nm is.
He said inch pounds not foot pounds. There is a huge difference.
@@AlbertBayer-mm5qy Thanks for the backup!
@MowerMike it's a newton metre.
Way too much work on that engine. Why? I thoughtvthese are good engines.
You should check out one of those new fangled electric mowers.
It's routine maintenance...any small engine will need the valve lash adjusted every couple hundred hours. The only issue these Kawasaki FS/FX/FR engines are known for, from what I've heard over the years, is valve train problems due to lack of routine valve lash adjustments (letting the valve springs weaken, valves/valve guides/valve seats work themselves loose).
Stop calling the engine a motor 😂
Motor Motor Motor Motor ;)