I have recently been working on this motor, and thanks for the reply via email. Your videos are very very important because you show everything from start to finish. Couldn't ask for more in giving a shade tree mechanic such as myself the insight to going into this motor. Thank you for your time and information, much appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video! I have the same motor and there was a slow oil leak that I didn't catch, now I get to rebuild my engine. Super helpful stuff here!
I have my FR600V from my cub cadet torn apart on my bench. The motor seems to be exactly the same. I’m having the same problem with oil burning, taking the heads off I had a pool of oil sitting on top of the pistons!That flex hone did an amazing job honing the cylinders! I unfortunately ordered the oversized piston ring set so I’m waiting for the standard size to come in. Just be aware out there they make a 0.5mm oversized ring set. Also my rebuild kit came with the flywheel seals and what not but as you mentioned in a comment earlier might as well not touch it if it’s not an issue and gravity mostly being the issue with the crankshaft seal. Thanks for helping me rebuild my first mower engine!
I just picked up an Ariens 52" that was ran low on oil and it blew the connecting rod to the crank, Had three pieces of the cap in the sump. Threw the rod on an up stroke it seems, as there is no visible damage to the cylinder wall or block. Just some build up on the crank that I think can be dissolved and polished off. This was the best video I came across on the break down and re assembly of the Kawasaki by far! Great job! I'm ordering the full rebuild kit as soon as I'm done typing, Thanks you for your work! I wish I could have left you a couple bucks. You should add a donate to your description and links bro!
Just a phenomenal video that worked perfectly on my 14.5 HP Kawasaki FS481V twin cylinder engine. Found one of my intake ports with 2 loose bolts (sucking dirt for who knows how long). Rings were within .005" (.110 new) wear on the good cylinder and a whopping .036" on the badly worn cylinder. The only improvement I would make is to use TAPE rather than permanent marker to mark the pistons (and connecting rods) during disassembly. The carb cleaner I used immediately removed those marks. When reinstalling the pistons the "K" part number identifier on the connecting rods MUST FACE EACH OTHER or the pistons will bind during assembly since the connecting rods have a slight bend in them. Just make sure the "K" marks face each other and everything will go back together easily. It started right up with a single shot of starting fluid and ran better than new this weekend mowing my 5 acres. Smooth, absolutely no smoke. Just amazing. Thank you for posting such a wonderful video!
Hey Mike, would have liked to see what your ring gap was before you installed them on the piston. Also, when tapping the piston back in the bore, use your third hand to be sure the rod is not beating against the crank surface.
Boutta do a ring job on my cousins, pulled heads off because people thought it was a head gasket and the rings are bad, the pistons move a hair around the cylinder walls. Guess i gotta order rings and sump seals
I really enjoyed this video. I'm about to break one down myself. And hopefully it's not destroyed so can rebuild it and Rock on! Looks like it's a doable job. Thanks man.
I got a stuck engine from a 345 John Deere. Eighteen horsepower water cooled. The pistons are impossibly stuck. Everything else is good as far as I can tell. I have to think that the previous owner had low oil level and they just froze. My plan now is to drill and tap the piston tops and thread in a bolt or bolts to pull them from the bores which appear in decent shape.. My friend bought the second 345 to repair his primary tractor. So hopefully we will have a good as new camshaft, crankshaft and even connecting rods even as the pistons will be destroyed and the bores are questionable right now. These pistons have a very short stroke and they get stuck with the rods at high angles. Wish me luck
Good luck! You may try soaking around the pistons with transmission fluid or some PB blaster to see if they break free. Sounds like a fun redneck project to me.
Well that was pretty kool video. I have a motor about the same as yours. I was thinking about switching it out to a briggs and scrapem. But now I think I’ll just rebuild.
Don’t swap it, just replace the rings and seals. I have a full rebuild video that goes into all the details. If you switch to a different manufacturer the electrical connections won’t sync up.
I am currently tearing my Gravely down after being inspired by your videos. I have the heads off and I'm ready to pull the engine, but trying to get the PTO and and pulleys off of the crankshaft. Any recommendations or videos showing this process of removing the engine or at least the PTO assembly? The Main shaft bolt is on there pretty good. Thanks. Fellow Astros fan and enjoy your videos.
I gotcha man, check this video out. If that doesn’t work I suggest buying a cheap battery powered 1/2in impact and it will zip it right off. ua-cam.com/video/vbMI_DFcXH0/v-deo.htmlsi=75Gt23ERyfnh-0Bd Go Stros!
FYI - The connecting rods have a very minute bevel edge that is to be facing outward of the shaft. When the two connector rods are installed. the flat side that goes around the crank should be flat against each other, The bevel edge on each outward side allow for lubricatioand keeping wear away from the connector rod.
I just replaced a couple bent rods on my daddy’s Scag with a Kawasaki FH580V engine, it still has a little whiteish smoke coming out of the dipstick and before putting the heads back on, I noticed a small amount of oil seeping out of the right cylinder head, is this leak from bad rings?
It is normal to have some oil there. If it was burning oil before you did this job it maybe worth putting new rings on while you have the heads off though. Good luck!
@@MowerMike I had already put everything back together but the guard on back, it seems to run ok. So far, it’s only smoking a little when I first crank it up but after it’s hot it seems to stop. I think I could do the rings myself but I don’t feel like tackling that yet. I’m gonna see how it runs for now but maybe in the winter I’ll take on that project if it starts burning smoke regularly. Just trying to get daddy back going without breaking the bank. Thanks for your input, I’m no mechanic but I’ll try if I feel confident and it helps to have great people to learn from.
@@geramyballard5293 I agree if it is smoking a little but running you should be fine. Mine was smoking a lot and burning about .5 quart each time a mowed. You will know when the rings are really shot. You can always add some Lucas oil treatment to help them seal up a bit
Thanks for the great video! I did this recently on my fr691v but when I put it all back together, I’m getting issues with the throttle speed. Its much too high and it only idles normally if I gently press down on the governor lever. What did I do wrong?
Sounds like it may have an air leak in the intake somewhere. Try spraying carb spray around the carb and intake and hear if it changed rpm that shows you where the leak is. Good luck
@@MowerMike I sprayed starter fluid near the areas of the manifold where there are gaskets but it didnt seem to make a difference. Here is a clip of it happening: ua-cam.com/video/HZBCRt6QXgo/v-deo.htmlsi=Ddkk9QehMcznYkGl
I have a cub cadet with that motor and it has 850 hours on it ..and it recommends changing rings every 400 hours? Hell I never have checked the valve gaps ..it's just runs great for the last 16 years 🤞...the mower deck not so good 🤦
Hey Mike, why did you not remove the Flywheel and remove the Crankshaft to change out the top Seal ? While you were that far into it ? Any reason…I am about to go into my FR691V this next week. -Side-Note-I might actually have a FS691V- The Shroud tag Says FR691 But I have a Voltage Regulator.
Oh, they leak alright... I have to take down a water cooled FD 590 V . The cam looks great and the crank is probably OK .I suspect the pistons sticking are due to head gasket or something leaking water and corrosion. Gonna need some luck
Hi there the cam shaft gear looks like it's made of steel. Is that correct? I'm thinking of buying a cub cadet mower with a FR651V and wonder if you've been into one of those? I'm trying to ascertain if it too has steel cam shaft gear because I know some engines have plastic ones and I want to avoid that.
Yep I think it was plastic. I have no idea on which ones are plastic vs steel. I will say the Kawasaki engines are about the best brand you can get, but they are alll good as long as you take care of them.
@ 4:53. It looks like there a boss behind that motor mount location so that you can use a bolt to break the seal and push the oil pan off, or at least for anyone else doing this job since the vid is a year old as I write this comment.
...see my previous reply...the "K" part number marks on the connecting rods must face each other or the pistons will bind. Another person noted the 2 connecting rods (at the crank) have a "ridged" side and a "flat" side -- the flat sides of each connecting rod mate/rub against each other and the ridged sides face outward/away from each other.
I have recently been working on this motor, and thanks for the reply via email. Your videos are very very important because you show everything from start to finish. Couldn't ask for more in giving a shade tree mechanic such as myself the insight to going into this motor. Thank you for your time and information, much appreciated.
I appreciate the note. I am still a shade tree mechanic just have been blessed to have a nice shop to wrench in.
I did my FS730V a few years ago. Has been working great since.
Yep these engines love some fresh rings
Thank you for taking the time to make this video! I have the same motor and there was a slow oil leak that I didn't catch, now I get to rebuild my engine. Super helpful stuff here!
Glad to help. I made several videos on this engine, check out the whole series on my channel. Good luck
I really appreciate the "If I can do it, you can do it." comment - passing on some of that unfound confidence - and I could sure use some! :)
Haha don’t be scared. If it already broke what is the worse that can happen. Just dive in
I have my FR600V from my cub cadet torn apart on my bench. The motor seems to be exactly the same. I’m having the same problem with oil burning, taking the heads off I had a pool of oil sitting on top of the pistons!That flex hone did an amazing job honing the cylinders! I unfortunately ordered the oversized piston ring set so I’m waiting for the standard size to come in. Just be aware out there they make a 0.5mm oversized ring set. Also my rebuild kit came with the flywheel seals and what not but as you mentioned in a comment earlier might as well not touch it if it’s not an issue and gravity mostly being the issue with the crankshaft seal. Thanks for helping me rebuild my first mower engine!
Good on ya for diving in. Glad to help it is a great motor to rebuild.
I just picked up an Ariens 52" that was ran low on oil and it blew the connecting rod to the crank, Had three pieces of the cap in the sump. Threw the rod on an up stroke it seems, as there is no visible damage to the cylinder wall or block. Just some build up on the crank that I think can be dissolved and polished off. This was the best video I came across on the break down and re assembly of the Kawasaki by far! Great job! I'm ordering the full rebuild kit as soon as I'm done typing, Thanks you for your work! I wish I could have left you a couple bucks. You should add a donate to your description and links bro!
Hey thanks for the compliment. I just make videos I would want to use. No tip necessary. (But there is a way to tip on UA-cam just google it)
starting on a Kawa FX730V that needs some TLC - thanks for this vid and the series
Glad it helps, tried putting together the series based on what I would want to see. Good luck
Just a phenomenal video that worked perfectly on my 14.5 HP Kawasaki FS481V twin cylinder engine. Found one of my intake ports with 2 loose bolts (sucking dirt for who knows how long). Rings were within .005" (.110 new) wear on the good cylinder and a whopping .036" on the badly worn cylinder. The only improvement I would make is to use TAPE rather than permanent marker to mark the pistons (and connecting rods) during disassembly. The carb cleaner I used immediately removed those marks. When reinstalling the pistons the "K" part number identifier on the connecting rods MUST FACE EACH OTHER or the pistons will bind during assembly since the connecting rods have a slight bend in them. Just make sure the "K" marks face each other and everything will go back together easily. It started right up with a single shot of starting fluid and ran better than new this weekend mowing my 5 acres. Smooth, absolutely no smoke. Just amazing. Thank you for posting such a wonderful video!
That is great news. I had the same result with my engine. It ran like new with those new wings. Good point on the tape.
Hey Mike, would have liked to see what your ring gap was before you installed them on the piston. Also, when tapping the piston back in the bore, use your third hand to be sure the rod is not beating against the crank surface.
Good points rags!
Boutta do a ring job on my cousins, pulled heads off because people thought it was a head gasket and the rings are bad, the pistons move a hair around the cylinder walls. Guess i gotta order rings and sump seals
I was in the same boat. Very frustrating good luck
@@MowerMike got bottom end back together, wasn't too hard. Now to do upper end lol
@@That1996FordRanger Got all the videos ready for ya good luck!
I really enjoyed this video. I'm about to break one down myself. And hopefully it's not destroyed so can rebuild it and Rock on! Looks like it's a doable job. Thanks man.
Yep is a great job to learn on. I have a whole series on this engine.
I got a stuck engine from a 345 John Deere. Eighteen horsepower water cooled. The pistons are impossibly stuck. Everything else is good as far as I can tell. I have to think that the previous owner had low oil level and they just froze. My plan now is to drill and tap the piston tops and thread in a bolt or bolts to pull them from the bores which appear in decent shape.. My friend bought the second 345 to repair his primary tractor. So hopefully we will have a good as new camshaft, crankshaft and even connecting rods even as the pistons will be destroyed and the bores are questionable right now. These pistons have a very short stroke and they get stuck with the rods at high angles. Wish me luck
Good luck! You may try soaking around the pistons with transmission fluid or some PB blaster to see if they break free. Sounds like a fun redneck project to me.
Well that was pretty kool video. I have a motor about the same as yours. I was thinking about switching it out to a briggs and scrapem. But now I think I’ll just rebuild.
Don’t swap it, just replace the rings and seals. I have a full rebuild video that goes into all the details. If you switch to a different manufacturer the electrical connections won’t sync up.
I am currently tearing my Gravely down after being inspired by your videos. I have the heads off and I'm ready to pull the engine, but trying to get the PTO and and pulleys off of the crankshaft. Any recommendations or videos showing this process of removing the engine or at least the PTO assembly? The Main shaft bolt is on there pretty good. Thanks. Fellow Astros fan and enjoy your videos.
I gotcha man, check this video out. If that doesn’t work I suggest buying a cheap battery powered 1/2in impact and it will zip it right off.
ua-cam.com/video/vbMI_DFcXH0/v-deo.htmlsi=75Gt23ERyfnh-0Bd
Go Stros!
Thank you! Great video!!
You bet!
Well done Mike!
Thanks, was a hard one to shoot
FYI - The connecting rods have a very minute bevel edge that is to be facing outward of the shaft. When the two connector rods are installed. the flat side that goes around the crank should be flat against each other, The bevel edge on each outward side allow for lubricatioand keeping wear away from the connector rod.
Good advice lol wish I would have known this earlier
Great video but one question. Was there a good cross hatch on the cylinder? Honing the cylinder will help bigtime with new rings.
Yep I have a video on honing the cylinder. I thought it was mentioned here, maybe stop fast forwarding through the good stuff. :)
@MowerMike You are 100 percent correct. I went back and watched again and you absolutely mentioned it! My apologies and great videos by the way!
@@Harrison6624 All good man, was a fun series to put together. That is an excellent engine.
I just replaced a couple bent rods on my daddy’s Scag with a Kawasaki FH580V engine, it still has a little whiteish smoke coming out of the dipstick and before putting the heads back on, I noticed a small amount of oil seeping out of the right cylinder head, is this leak from bad rings?
It is normal to have some oil there. If it was burning oil before you did this job it maybe worth putting new rings on while you have the heads off though. Good luck!
@@MowerMike I had already put everything back together but the guard on back, it seems to run ok. So far, it’s only smoking a little when I first crank it up but after it’s hot it seems to stop. I think I could do the rings myself but I don’t feel like tackling that yet. I’m gonna see how it runs for now but maybe in the winter I’ll take on that project if it starts burning smoke regularly. Just trying to get daddy back going without breaking the bank. Thanks for your input, I’m no mechanic but I’ll try if I feel confident and it helps to have great people to learn from.
@@geramyballard5293 I agree if it is smoking a little but running you should be fine. Mine was smoking a lot and burning about .5 quart each time a mowed. You will know when the rings are really shot. You can always add some Lucas oil treatment to help them seal up a bit
Thanks for the great video! I did this recently on my fr691v but when I put it all back together, I’m getting issues with the throttle speed. Its much too high and it only idles normally if I gently press down on the governor lever. What did I do wrong?
Sounds like it may have an air leak in the intake somewhere. Try spraying carb spray around the carb and intake and hear if it changed rpm that shows you where the leak is. Good luck
@@MowerMike I sprayed starter fluid near the areas of the manifold where there are gaskets but it didnt seem to make a difference.
Here is a clip of it happening: ua-cam.com/video/HZBCRt6QXgo/v-deo.htmlsi=Ddkk9QehMcznYkGl
@@TheScubacamper Sounds like a plane taking off haha. Good luck
Turned out to be the governor lever out of adjustment
@@TheScubacamper glad you found it! Was going to suggest maybe governor linkage.
For those cheapskates like me, there is free PDF versions of the full service manual online.
I have a cub cadet with that motor and it has 850 hours on it ..and it recommends changing rings every 400 hours? Hell I never have checked the valve gaps ..it's just runs great for the last 16 years 🤞...the mower deck not so good 🤦
That is great. You probably changed your oil way more often than my buddy who ran this engine into the ground. Works great now though
The manual you are using where can I get one?
I think I got mine on eBay. Or you can find a PDF version online
So you're not going to hone the cylinders?
I have a separate video on honing, go rummage through my channel
Hey Mike, why did you not remove the Flywheel and remove the Crankshaft to change out the top Seal ? While you were that far into it ? Any reason…I am about to go into my FR691V this next week. -Side-Note-I might actually have a FS691V- The Shroud tag Says FR691 But I have a Voltage Regulator.
No reason just figured the top seal would never leak due to gravity and didn’t want to mess with it
Oh, they leak alright... I have to take down a water cooled FD 590 V . The cam looks great and the crank is probably OK .I suspect the pistons sticking are due to head gasket or something leaking water and corrosion.
Gonna need some luck
Is it possible to change the flywheel seal while the engine is on the mower?
@@gregorytolson1648 No idea, try it and let us know
Which direction does this motor turn?
Well it all depends on which angle you are looking at her from. Haha
Hey Mike over here in central NC, FR961V here with an oil leak. are you sure it's crankshaft seal?
I have no idea why your engine is leaking lol
Hi there the cam shaft gear looks like it's made of steel. Is that correct? I'm thinking of buying a cub cadet mower with a FR651V and wonder if you've been into one of those? I'm trying to ascertain if it too has steel cam shaft gear because I know some engines have plastic ones and I want to avoid that.
Yep I think it was plastic. I have no idea on which ones are plastic vs steel. I will say the Kawasaki engines are about the best brand you can get, but they are alll good as long as you take care of them.
@@MowerMikeI would disagree, nothing beats a Honda.
@@RobertHaselwood Very true, you got me there. Always take a Honda if you can get it.
@ 4:53. It looks like there a boss behind that motor mount location so that you can use a bolt to break the seal and push the oil pan off, or at least for anyone else doing this job since the vid is a year old as I write this comment.
That there is, good eye
Long stroke = more torque. Shorten the stroke, higher revving engine.
That’s what she said!
More stroke more torque
That’s what she said!
Shoulda' honed the cylinders.
Cylinder Honing w Flex Hone + Sweet Pumas!
ua-cam.com/video/Z1HGEzXzH4I/v-deo.html
Sounds like you need to subscribe my man ;)
Sub!!
Strap in things could get weird
All this and the sorry mf couldn't show how the connecting rods are installed to the piston. They go a certain way
Haha love your passion for my UA-cam’n!!! Check my other videos for more disappointments.
😂😂😂 there’s always a jeremy out there
...see my previous reply...the "K" part number marks on the connecting rods must face each other or the pistons will bind. Another person noted the 2 connecting rods (at the crank) have a "ridged" side and a "flat" side -- the flat sides of each connecting rod mate/rub against each other and the ridged sides face outward/away from each other.