Nice work my friend I used to build them myself there's nothing better than a tight cut on every aspect of a home and not only that the homeowners love it when they come by and look at it great work
I agree! A conscientiously well-framed house where everything is cut tight, plumb, and perpindicular is beautiful! Superior work is all the advertisement you need!
Very impressed, I’ve been told about this method, nice to see it done. No doubt faster and probably less opportunity for errors. I think I’m going to follow u guys
First of all, the is nothing prettier than a perfect hand cut roof, properly aligned and trimmed, right before the decking goes on. To bad our roofs are just to cut, up for gang cuts. Anyway keep up the good work. # "The Great American Craftsman"
If you can't read, then i'm sorry for you. But here it goes anyway, the guy commented on how pretty that roof looked, all aligned up and cut correct, I merely agreed in my own way, as an old framer I always loved it when the roof was done and trim installed, when a roof is cut and hung properly, it is the best advertisement of your skill, for others to see, part #2 I rarely get the opportunity to frame a single ridge structure, however when I do, I employ this method, to often the houses we build have to many ridges, which makes gang cutting impractical. #3 I paused the video and examined the rest of his frame job, walls etc. That is why I said keep up the good work. GOOD AMERICAN CRAFTSMEN, are becoming few and far between, when we see someone promoting the craft in this way we must encourage him to continue. I am happy to have enlighten you, reach out if you need anymore clarification. CHUCK.
Roof looks fantastic, and I enjoyed watching you gang cut all those rafters🤩 (its so cool that you got Ryan Reynolds to narrate the video as well😝) Cheers
Roof cutter since the 70’s. I used the swing table for years then got a dado saw and never went back. You would probably have to have one made these days.
I think i will start doing it like this. Up until now ive layed as many boards as i can flat, marking them with my template & cutting. Rinse & repeat. Honestly, this looks like less body movements. Plus you only have to mark and cut once and you remove user error. Im a big fan. Ill just make sure to measure thrice
This is what I’m talking about. Maximizing productivity. How much can you accomplish without running all day, how can the tools around you help you accomplish high quality work in the most efficient ways? May I ask who or where you learned the trade?
Not bad 👍We make a small tail pattern with wall line mark and birds mouth cut out and a small plumb cut pattern for the ridge. Set crown up on horses that are made from precuts line up the plumb cut edge with a square pull a tape down to the wall line mark on each side of the stack connect the lines with a framing square lay rafters flat and cut out. Cut a roof in no time 👍
Prazi has been around a long time. Does what it claims to. I was gang cutting rafters in 1979 in Louisiana for a big tract builder. I usually cut three houses worth of rafters a day in a dedicated cut lot. Id get plans, do the layout and go to town. I had several saws available and I would set them to the angle of the notch cut. Boring being in the same place every day.
You seen the Mafell notching saw? I've been wanting to watch a gang cut birds mouth and fitted with it. Loved reading Larry Haun explain Gang cutting and batch cutting what an ingenious maniac he was.
Questions please? With rafter on 24" centers what thickness roof sheeting do you use? Also, how will the rafters be insulated and to what R-value? TIA.
How did i get here 🤔 i talked to my wife about Building a 8' x 12' shed in the back garden and "someone" was listening 😱😂 nice work bro 👍 could you take a week holiday in the Scottish islands and bring your tools 😂
@@chuckd9007 lol, Georgia. 4/12 roof. Our skylights don’t leak. We frame them out of 2x6 above roof surface (curb type) metal flashing with Prosoco over it, Skylight mounts over exterior of the curb and the flashing. We have never had em leak even on a 2/12 pitch in hawaii
@@chuckd9007 my dads been a roofer since 78, never had one leak, including one on a 2/12 section at my grandparents house. Before liquid flashing like Prosoco he would fire up his kettle and do a little hot mop around the 2x6 curbing. Also roofing contractor were “Roofing and Sheetmetal” back then so they bent and cut all their own flashing. Any roof can eventually leak if it simply wears out and gets old so I wouldn’t fault a skylight if the roof is shot, however now with liquid flashing there’s no excuse other than poor craftsmanship. Sorry you haven’t had a good experience
@@Natedoc808 my only bad experience is having to take them out and re roof because the previous builder put them in. I wont install them on anything less 12/12 and i tell people that in the cold climate we live in the thing will leak eventually, up here ice builds up above skylight from the high temperatures inside the house and the extreme cold outside and we all know what happens with ice dams right, the ice has a way of working its way past the sealer and around the flashing. Over time the ice will make a larger and larger path and eventually water can get in.
Do you mean the length of the Rafters If you do . Take the span of the Building and look it up in a book and it will give you the length of the Rafter to the center of the ridge if there is a one.. if there is a ridge deduct the with usually 1 1/2 and look up that span
I have no doubt this would be faster than cutting one at a time. But not all of us have all of these specialty saws and tool accessories to pull to off. I imagine the tool costs would certainly be justified in time savings. Part of my own issue is that I like the smoother cut and finish of a circular saw and the chain saw cut just seems too imprecise to me. Maybe I'm wrong.
Ok. I've framed with the best of them. I can pick this apart. For starters, there's no way near enough temporary bracing on your walls. Telks me two things; the walls are likely not straight or even plumb, and when you walk on them to install the rafters, they shake. Then you lock them in permanently like that with the rafters, and then wonder why the drywaller and cabinet installers complain. Two, all the steps it took to prep for those rafter cuts with those big fancy saws, could have been done in a third of the time with a 7 1/4" circular saw, on the lumber stack or horses in the front or back yard. Cut a patter, install your butting blocks so you dont need a second guy, and your set. When you carry them to their spot, they are actually a little lighter. Also, snap a chalk line and cut the tails afterwards. Let the scraps fall where they fall outside, pick them up for firewood afterwards. With most lumber, there are sometimes 1/2" to 5/8" difference in depth. I've seen 2x12's at 11" and up to 11 5/8". So unless you are also taking the step of running these beasts through a table saw, cutting the seat cut with your fancy saw like you did agai st a 2x4 guide block can make that cut vary enough to make rafter longer or shorter in just one cut. On a lighter note, I suppose this would work ok on maybe a lig cabin. Besides for that, I would assume either the a cathedral ceiling or the roof would show a random high or low rafter here and there. Let me hear your replies.
Let me address a couple of your comments for the sake of those who will read these comments. 1) Since the exterior soffits are installed on the outside of the wall, we have a 16" strong back to keep the wall straight. Additionally, I run braces as needed work around. We don't walk walls. 2) As far as how fast you are at cutting, if you haven't cut rafters, your time savings is only a guess 3) I don't need to do any tail cutting in the air because the soffits are already installed. 4) cathedral ceilings are flat because by racking them I can remove the ugly rafters. 5) Gang cutting isn't for everyone. But I handled the material less total than using a pattern rafter. That pattern alone is going to be handled x the number of rafters, plus each rafter has to get moved onto and off of the sawhorses. Dragging them onto the racks is easier work for me than putting them on sawhorses. 6) I appreciate your comments because they reflect someone who is open to discuss and not just here to prove how cool they are. We all get better with constructive (pun intended) criticism. theroofcutter.blogspot.com/
Sweet job fellas! Ballpark, what kind of time savings do you think you achieve this way. I know you say it’s faster, by how much do you think! Love the channel! Thanks!
Great video and explanation of gang cutting. Usually laminated beams have a built in crown.....do you run your rafters straight or follow the crown of the laminated beam?
That is some nice work. Nice looking b lumber too. Back in the day I watched my boss measure twice and cut once an entire floor system of wood I beams this way. He should have measured three times. He cut them all three inches short. Oops.
I bought the small table to go with my small saw, but the handle on the XL looks great, might need to buy a bigger saw to go with a bigger table :) great content Tim.
For us non carpenters the terminology needs to be dumbed downed a bit. Lol But aside from that perfect! Love the concept; been working in that manner with steel all my life. It’s a little nerve wracking at the beginning making sure no mistakes will pop up later but the rewards are exhilarating just knowing gang cutting and prefabing is so much easier and faster. Built the floor wall and prefabed the roof on the floor for this building once. Had the crane pick the roof straight up and popped the walls up underneath and lowered the roof. Boom done ! Took One person to prefab Two on assembly and install and one crane op.
Check out one of the stair videos of essential craftsman on the ...... house project. He uses a chainsaw on rafters, i am not sure if he copied his stair stringers from a pattern (he is scary confident with his skillsaw) or gang cut them with a chain saw also.
I beg to differ, I’ve logged for pretty decent amount of time limbing and topping and hand falling cottonwood and black walnut. Never once have I had a saw push out from using the bottom of the bar. The saw will want to pull you through the cut. You use the top of the bar and it will always want to push you back. I’ve started cuts with the bottom of the bar and just held onto the throttle and nothing else and have the saw do all the work.
I appreciate your experience. Have you tried this? Try it one time and you'll see that cutting the ridge cuts with the top of the bar pulls the saw. Cutting the tail cuts (opposite) with the top of the bar it has a tendency to climb out. I think its just something to do with the baseplate and angle. Of the 10 guys I've worked with who've run the saw and disagreed with me (2 were sons of loggers) at first, they quickly realized. BTW, if you have any chainsaw tips, please post them. That's not something I'm an expert on 👍
Not a whole lot of tricks I can tell ya, you are already wearing all your PPE and have respect for the saw so cut safely. As long as your saw is sharp and your rakers are filed correctly then there should be no problem. The rakers tell your tooth how much to bite. File them down to preference. Start with one swipe of a flat file on a brand new chain and if the saw doesn’t pull how you desire take another swipe after four or five sharpens. If you take too much then your saw will want to hop through the cut and it becomes fairly tiresome. And for the size of bar/ chain you are using you can either file with 7/32 or 13/64. I limbed and topped with 7/32 and filed my rakers way down to pull through limbs and tops faster. For bore cutting (plunging bar straight into tree) I used 13/64. It was just a finer smoother cut and didn’t buck as much as you plunge the tip of the bar straight into a tree
Gang cut...We don't get must opportunity to do that these days...Trusses are the technique de jour...That's how we did it in the 80's... We had a 16 5/16 saw (makita)...It was lighter than a 10 inch Worm drive!...:)
How do you stick frame a rafter roof that has a dual pitch slope on one side of the ridge? Like its 9:12 on one side of the ridge beam, then on the other side its 9:12 for say 10' then changes pitch to 4:12. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
very good question. It doesn't work. Because the material is irregular the blade will pinch badly. I have tried it may times, finally gave up and just free hand it.
@@UGPepeLarry Haun had a dad blade big foot and a chainsaw that he used . He talks about them in his book. I bet he absolutely would have used these tools if they were as readily available then as they are now.
I truly loved framing but now worry I will die because of my employer I have worked with wood but never concrete he had us doing tie down rods and blowing out the holes any framers here do this looking for a little hope. I don't want my life to end
There is indeed enough insulation. In our climate zone (4c) the rafter bays get R38 high density. For this span, 2x12 is far stronger than we need to meet out roof loads.
@@AwesomeFramers whats the loading requirements for roof in your area. Where im at it 48/8 and r-44 minimum. Also want to point out last time i looked i-joists were cheaper and stronger than linear lumber of same height.
I was a framer and i don’t think I would ever cut my rafters like this I can cut an entire gable roofed that size in an hour it’s only 24 rafters that’s nothing I used to cut 12 rafters in about 10 minutes after I put my pattern on there
I was a framer back in the 90,s. I've never seen such a thing. I would love to shadow this guy for a summer. I could learn so much👍🏼. Great video
You should check out theroofcutter.blogspot.com/ so cool!
@@AwesomeFramers 11qà
Love it. I have been a framer for 38 years thinking out of the box is fun. Great way to cut rafters and quick. Great job
"Thinking out the box"👍.When things don't follow "protocol" 💪💪
Framed for 38 years retired and at home watching framing videos. Man get a life.
Nice work my friend I used to build them myself there's nothing better than a tight cut on every aspect of a home and not only that the homeowners love it when they come by and look at it great work
I agree! A conscientiously well-framed house where everything is cut tight, plumb, and perpindicular is beautiful! Superior work is all the advertisement you need!
Blown away. Never seen that done here in Britain. I'm fast, but that is amazing
Agreed. This dude would absolutely kill it on price work.
Very impressed, I’ve been told about this method, nice to see it done. No doubt faster and probably less opportunity for errors. I think I’m going to follow u guys
I wish i could work with a crew like yours would learn so much !! Awsome videos like always.
Thanks!
Its always top notch with this crew and the getalongness with humor makes it such a gooderer day.
The goodest
@@austindorf83 bestestist
you sir are one smart man!!! I have framed homes since 97 .never seen anything like that .
First of all, the is nothing prettier than a perfect hand cut roof, properly aligned and trimmed, right before the decking goes on. To bad our roofs are just to cut, up for gang cuts. Anyway keep up the good work. # "The Great American Craftsman"
If you can't read, then i'm sorry for you. But here it goes anyway, the guy commented on how pretty that roof looked, all aligned up and cut correct, I merely agreed in my own way, as an old framer I always loved it when the roof was done and trim installed, when a roof is cut and hung properly, it is the best advertisement of your skill, for others to see, part #2 I rarely get the opportunity to frame a single ridge structure, however when I do, I employ this method, to often the houses we build have to many ridges, which makes gang cutting impractical. #3 I paused the video and examined the rest of his frame job, walls etc. That is why I said keep up the good work. GOOD AMERICAN CRAFTSMEN, are becoming few and far between, when we see someone promoting the craft in this way we must encourage him to continue. I am happy to have enlighten you, reach out if you need anymore clarification. CHUCK.
@@chuckkillawood8229 I appreciate the sarcasm. There's not enough of it in the world anymore
@Ken )llllll)l)llll
@Ken ppl
These videos are awesome to watch. I could nerd out on this all day. Would love to learn this trade.
Easy trade to get into.
We're hiring.
Been framing since early 80's. But to each his own. Nice work
This guy is a process optimizer...a badass!!! Thumbs up dude!!! This is how you make your life easier..by using your head and not your muscles. Lol
Roof looks fantastic, and I enjoyed watching you gang cut all those rafters🤩 (its so cool that you got Ryan Reynolds to narrate the video as well😝) Cheers
Ryan and I go way back to 2 Guys a Girl and a Pizza place :-)
@@AwesomeFramers Sorry man, you must have heard that a thousand times🤔 Great videos mate😎
Great to see you here TC! 😀
@@benh1216 Hi Ben. I got this video suggested to me and I think this guy is really cool😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter Yeah same here! Love the bit of banter in your first comment 😂
Best construction tool I seen yet
Roof cutter since the 70’s.
I used the swing table for years then got a dado saw and never went back. You would probably have to have one made these days.
Awesome! A STIHL with a plate to cut rafters. Your tool arsenal is sick!!!!
Bro Perkins suggested this channel. You do have some nifty tricks!
i was skeptical before the video, but you nailed it.
I think i will start doing it like this. Up until now ive layed as many boards as i can flat, marking them with my template & cutting. Rinse & repeat. Honestly, this looks like less body movements. Plus you only have to mark and cut once and you remove user error. Im a big fan. Ill just make sure to measure thrice
Impressive! I’ve never seen that done with a chainsaw before, nice!
Thanks Chuck
Old stuff in germany for 25 years
If youre cutting lumber for framing with a chainsaw youre a hack.
This is what I’m talking about. Maximizing productivity. How much can you accomplish without running all day, how can the tools around you help you accomplish high quality work in the most efficient ways? May I ask who or where you learned the trade?
You had me at "You have to invest in the tools". I love tools!
I find this excellent. I built trailer, and clapped all my cuts together like you did. They all go together the same.
You guys are top notch! Thank you for the amazing content!
You are a building scientist. Love these videos!
Not bad 👍We make a small tail pattern with wall line mark and birds mouth cut out and a small plumb cut pattern for the ridge. Set crown up on horses that are made from precuts line up the plumb cut edge with a square pull a tape down to the wall line mark on each side of the stack connect the lines with a framing square lay rafters flat and cut out. Cut a roof in no time 👍
Have you ever used the Prazi beam cutter?? It’s a chainsaw blade attachment for a worm drive. I’m curious if you know if it’s any good?
Prazi has been around a long time. Does what it claims to. I was gang cutting rafters in 1979 in Louisiana for a big tract builder. I usually cut three houses worth of rafters a day in a dedicated cut lot. Id get plans, do the layout and go to town. I had several saws available and I would set them to the angle of the notch cut. Boring being in the same place every day.
Funny seeing Shane again. Great video. I wish the majority of our work wasn't on old buildings where we could utilize these time saving tactics.
What size are the notches on those blocking? And, how high are the rafter above ridge beam? Impressive frame work.
Have you tried the Makita cordless chainsaws for gang cutting? I wonder if they would actually be able to compete with gas power.
That's a great idea for a video. There are gas powered makita chainsaws too. Wonder how they compare
You seen the Mafell notching saw? I've been wanting to watch a gang cut birds mouth and fitted with it. Loved reading Larry Haun explain Gang cutting and batch cutting what an ingenious maniac he was.
I've read that saw is slow. But I don't know.
I am a Union Electrician.. We have nothing on you carpenters.. I love watching these videos, Masters at work..
Questions please? With rafter on 24" centers what thickness roof sheeting do you use? Also, how will the rafters be insulated and to what R-value? TIA.
FANTASTIC, WE BEEN DOING THIS IN CALIFORNIA FOR 55 YEARS.
How did i get here 🤔 i talked to my wife about Building a 8' x 12' shed in the back garden and "someone" was listening 😱😂 nice work bro 👍 could you take a week holiday in the Scottish islands and bring your tools 😂
absolutely, but you have to promise decent enough weather so I can capture some epic sunsets :-)
@@AwesomeFramers 😂 not this day 😫🌧🌧🌧 summer was last Tuesday 😂👍
Bruh!! You are the man! Gave me a couple of good ideas... Thanks! And yeah... That was square!
Love the skylight up in that roof. Our upcoming build is going to have several, because nothing beats a naturally well lit home
I hope your house has a nice steep roof pitch, is in a warm climate and not too much rain.
@@chuckd9007 lol, Georgia. 4/12 roof. Our skylights don’t leak. We frame them out of 2x6 above roof surface (curb type) metal flashing with Prosoco over it, Skylight mounts over exterior of the curb and the flashing. We have never had em leak even on a 2/12 pitch in hawaii
@@Natedoc808i have 30 years of building experince and the only skylights that dont leak eventually are on steeper roofs in warm climates.
@@chuckd9007 my dads been a roofer since 78, never had one leak, including one on a 2/12 section at my grandparents house. Before liquid flashing like Prosoco he would fire up his kettle and do a little hot mop around the 2x6 curbing. Also roofing contractor were “Roofing and Sheetmetal” back then so they bent and cut all their own flashing. Any roof can eventually leak if it simply wears out and gets old so I wouldn’t fault a skylight if the roof is shot, however now with liquid flashing there’s no excuse other than poor craftsmanship. Sorry you haven’t had a good experience
@@Natedoc808 my only bad experience is having to take them out and re roof because the previous builder put them in. I wont install them on anything less 12/12 and i tell people that in the cold climate we live in the thing will leak eventually, up here ice builds up above skylight from the high temperatures inside the house and the extreme cold outside and we all know what happens with ice dams right, the ice has a way of working its way past the sealer and around the flashing. Over time the ice will make a larger and larger path and eventually water can get in.
when are you coming over?! We need you here pronto
Looks good. Most carpenter dont care anymore about their work
I picture Ryan Reynolds when I hear your voice lol. No offense intended. Excellent video btw. Very informative and helpful.
You'd make a pretty good teacher at this... just saying as a teacher going into carpentry!!
Wonder how I could move from IT into doing this, this is an awesome job
Awesome work for sure. I would not even have a clue on how the math/layout works for the rafters to be tied to the beam.
Do you mean the length of the Rafters If you do . Take the span of the Building and look it up in a book and it will give you the length of the Rafter to the center of the ridge if there is a one.. if there is a ridge deduct the with usually 1 1/2 and look up that span
One of the last shots shows notches in the ridge beam. Are those for ventilation?
Larry would be proud of you!
I have no doubt this would be faster than cutting one at a time. But not all of us have all of these specialty saws and tool accessories to pull to off. I imagine the tool costs would certainly be justified in time savings. Part of my own issue is that I like the smoother cut and finish of a circular saw and the chain saw cut just seems too imprecise to me. Maybe I'm wrong.
Ok. I've framed with the best of them. I can pick this apart. For starters, there's no way near enough temporary bracing on your walls. Telks me two things; the walls are likely not straight or even plumb, and when you walk on them to install the rafters, they shake. Then you lock them in permanently like that with the rafters, and then wonder why the drywaller and cabinet installers complain.
Two, all the steps it took to prep for those rafter cuts with those big fancy saws, could have been done in a third of the time with a 7 1/4" circular saw, on the lumber stack or horses in the front or back yard. Cut a patter, install your butting blocks so you dont need a second guy, and your set. When you carry them to their spot, they are actually a little lighter. Also, snap a chalk line and cut the tails afterwards. Let the scraps fall where they fall outside, pick them up for firewood afterwards.
With most lumber, there are sometimes 1/2" to 5/8" difference in depth. I've seen 2x12's at 11" and up to 11 5/8". So unless you are also taking the step of running these beasts through a table saw, cutting the seat cut with your fancy saw like you did agai st a 2x4 guide block can make that cut vary enough to make rafter longer or shorter in just one cut. On a lighter note, I suppose this would work ok on maybe a lig cabin. Besides for that, I would assume either the a cathedral ceiling or the roof would show a random high or low rafter here and there. Let me hear your replies.
Let me address a couple of your comments for the sake of those who will read these comments.
1) Since the exterior soffits are installed on the outside of the wall, we have a 16" strong back to keep the wall straight. Additionally, I run braces as needed work around. We don't walk walls.
2) As far as how fast you are at cutting, if you haven't cut rafters, your time savings is only a guess
3) I don't need to do any tail cutting in the air because the soffits are already installed.
4) cathedral ceilings are flat because by racking them I can remove the ugly rafters.
5) Gang cutting isn't for everyone. But I handled the material less total than using a pattern rafter. That pattern alone is going to be handled x the number of rafters, plus each rafter has to get moved onto and off of the sawhorses. Dragging them onto the racks is easier work for me than putting them on sawhorses.
6) I appreciate your comments because they reflect someone who is open to discuss and not just here to prove how cool they are. We all get better with constructive (pun intended) criticism.
theroofcutter.blogspot.com/
That is some gorgeous work! Much respect
Dude you sound like Ryan Reynolds! You got mad skills 👍
Larry haun would approve 👌
Sweet job fellas! Ballpark, what kind of time savings do you think you achieve this way. I know you say it’s faster, by how much do you think! Love the channel! Thanks!
I would say it takes half the time or less. I'm hoping to time the next one both ways since we have two gables nearly identical running front to back.
F....... briliant bro ..I've learned something new and worthy 👍
Is that black chalk in your snap line!? Never seen it before, i need it.
Yep, and it will last through rain and snow. You can buy it online or at any big box store.
Wade Wilson? Why is deadpool in the framing business 😂 Especially at the end, all I can hear is chimichanga’s , awesome job
Great video and explanation of gang cutting. Usually laminated beams have a built in crown.....do you run your rafters straight or follow the crown of the laminated beam?
Good question, I run them straight through, but only after sighting the beam.
Precut and install soffit on the ground!? You magician..
That is some nice work. Nice looking b lumber too. Back in the day I watched my boss measure twice and cut once an entire floor system of wood I beams this way. He should have measured three times. He cut them all three inches short. Oops.
He was just leaving room for 2x girders on each end. Now that's planning.
So what are the measurements and dimensions of that roof being work??
Ah, sometimes I grow so tired
But I know I've got one thing I got to do
Ramble on!!!!
I bought the small table to go with my small saw, but the handle on the XL looks great, might need to buy a bigger saw to go with a bigger table :) great content Tim.
I wonder with a stubby bar if the smaller Headcutter would be good for seat cuts?
light-bulb moment here at the end. letting the direction of the bevel relative to the guide dictate top of bar vs bottom of bar is a gamechanger.
I think it would work, I've cut with the end of the bar buried before, obviously a riskier cut but wasn't hard to control.
For us non carpenters the terminology needs to be dumbed downed a bit. Lol
But aside from that perfect!
Love the concept; been working in that manner with steel all my life. It’s a little nerve wracking at the beginning making sure no mistakes will pop up later but the rewards are exhilarating just knowing gang cutting and prefabing is so much easier and faster.
Built the floor wall and prefabed the roof on the floor for this building once. Had the crane pick the roof straight up and popped the walls up underneath and lowered the roof. Boom done ! Took One person to prefab
Two on assembly and install and one crane op.
Glad to see you over frame. I can't stand when the trusses don't land on studs.
Nice work Tim! Do you think this technique will work for stair stringers? I’ll have a project with 16 stairs
Check out one of the stair videos of essential craftsman on the ...... house project.
He uses a chainsaw on rafters, i am not sure if he copied his stair stringers from a pattern (he is scary confident with his skillsaw) or gang cut them with a chain saw also.
What was the attachment you had on your chainsaw called?
Nice sunny September day? Where the hell did August go?
Last September :-)
I beg to differ, I’ve logged for pretty decent amount of time limbing and topping and hand falling cottonwood and black walnut. Never once have I had a saw push out from using the bottom of the bar. The saw will want to pull you through the cut. You use the top of the bar and it will always want to push you back. I’ve started cuts with the bottom of the bar and just held onto the throttle and nothing else and have the saw do all the work.
I appreciate your experience. Have you tried this? Try it one time and you'll see that cutting the ridge cuts with the top of the bar pulls the saw. Cutting the tail cuts (opposite) with the top of the bar it has a tendency to climb out. I think its just something to do with the baseplate and angle. Of the 10 guys I've worked with who've run the saw and disagreed with me (2 were sons of loggers) at first, they quickly realized.
BTW, if you have any chainsaw tips, please post them. That's not something I'm an expert on 👍
Not a whole lot of tricks I can tell ya, you are already wearing all your PPE and have respect for the saw so cut safely. As long as your saw is sharp and your rakers are filed correctly then there should be no problem. The rakers tell your tooth how much to bite. File them down to preference. Start with one swipe of a flat file on a brand new chain and if the saw doesn’t pull how you desire take another swipe after four or five sharpens. If you take too much then your saw will want to hop through the cut and it becomes fairly tiresome. And for the size of bar/ chain you are using you can either file with 7/32 or 13/64. I limbed and topped with 7/32 and filed my rakers way down to pull through limbs and tops faster. For bore cutting (plunging bar straight into tree) I used 13/64. It was just a finer smoother cut and didn’t buck as much as you plunge the tip of the bar straight into a tree
Gang cut...We don't get must opportunity to do that these days...Trusses are the technique de jour...That's how we did it in the 80's... We had a 16 5/16 saw (makita)...It was lighter than a 10 inch Worm drive!...:)
Love watching a pro
kickin butt with these vids .... superb!
It's great to lean different techniques, thanks!
Ever use a dado to gang cut the bird mouths? My old man has a giant old dado saw and it is completely terrifying...
How do you stick frame a rafter roof that has a dual pitch slope on one side of the ridge? Like its 9:12 on one side of the ridge beam, then on the other side its 9:12 for say 10' then changes pitch to 4:12. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Google it
Dude I thought Ryan Reynolds was narrating your video lol.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 He says thank you
Nice work as always…thank you
Thank you for your knowledge and video's USA 🇺🇸
Good stuff....in my day it was the Prazi
Maybe a battery chainsaw for this method, my 16” Dewalt has been solid, I’m a weekend wacker & NoT professional FYI
Man, you love your job 👍
when its not too hot or too cold :-)
Why don't you use a guide when you use the beam saws for the bird's mouth cuts?
very good question. It doesn't work. Because the material is irregular the blade will pinch badly. I have tried it may times, finally gave up and just free hand it.
Why not nail fences for the birds mouth cuts too?
Larry Haun would be proud
Larry Haun probably wouldn't need to use 3 separate power tools and a $250 gig to do this
@@UGPepeLarry Haun had a dad blade big foot and a chainsaw that he used . He talks about them in his book. I bet he absolutely would have used these tools if they were as readily available then as they are now.
High praise
As a noncarpenter this scares the crap out of me. With my luck I'd mis measure and have 24 miscut boards
Will Holidays book explains this. Roof cutters secret
nice, another happy new sub!
You guys are a hoot!
I truly loved framing but now worry I will die because of my employer I have worked with wood but never concrete he had us doing tie down rods and blowing out the holes any framers here do this looking for a little hope. I don't want my life to end
Can I borrow you guys for a week... Good info.
How come you use 2x12? Theres not enough thickness for insulation. And not nearly as strong as 14 inch i-joists.
There is indeed enough insulation. In our climate zone (4c) the rafter bays get R38 high density.
For this span, 2x12 is far stronger than we need to meet out roof loads.
@@AwesomeFramers whats the loading requirements for roof in your area. Where im at it 48/8 and r-44 minimum. Also want to point out last time i looked i-joists were cheaper and stronger than linear lumber of same height.
Me gusta el estilaso del carpintero bien coloresco, me recuerda la pastorela de mi rancho.hahaha saludos Raza
on a side note..i missed the saw horse build...need that show...
And theirs me using a festool HKC with a fsk track that's smart
I was a framer and i don’t think I would ever cut my rafters like this I can cut an entire gable roofed that size in an hour it’s only 24 rafters that’s nothing I used to cut 12 rafters in about 10 minutes after I put my pattern on there
Thing of beauty!
Nice martinez..its all i use now. Way better than stiletto
You're like the Eddie Van Halen of sawing
A band saw will work .Just keep the blade tight.
I'd hire awesome framers cause tim is so awesome
Problem is it would take him more than a hr to fly to my job😂
Beautiful clean job site.
Why did you notch the ridge blocks?
Ventilation
@@AwesomeFramers that’s what I thought just wanted to make sure. About to do first big hand cut roof