How To Cut Perfect Rafters
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- This video is dedicated to learn how you can cut perfect rafters everytime without needing to measure or guess. Cutting rafters doesn't have to be difficult with the use of simple math, and while I am sure there is an easier way out there, this method of cutting my rafters has worked well. Let me know what you guys think in the comments below. I realize post frame style rafters are a little different than a stick frame rafter, but this video will help anyone looking to cut a rafter if they just learn the simple math.
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I need you to know, that I am just a DIY guy who builds for himself and his wife. The tips and practices that you share make my own projects go better, and faster. I really enjoy all of you videos. Thanks!
Great video, one thing I want to point out: all roof pitches in the US are measured out of 12in. A 4/12 pitch is a 4in rise every 12 inches. This also is useful because you can use the pitch as a quick way to find the rise with the run. In this case, the run is 9ft, and since 4/12 is actually 1/3 if you reduce the fraction, you multiply the run by 1/3 and that gets you the rise. If you have a run of 9ft you have a rise of 3ft because 3 is 4/12 of nine. If you have a 6/12 pitch, and a run of 9ft, the rise becomes 4.5ft, because 6/12 reduced is 1/2. 1/2 multiplied by 9 is 4.5ft.
Someone was paying attention in math. :)
Thank you I was wondering how he came up with a three foot rise. I just starting to think it was arbitrary number haha
4" of rise for every foot of run 4"x 9= 36" rise
One point there is no such thing as a 6-12 pitch a 6'' slope is 1/2 pitch. a 8'' sope is a 1/3 pitch
You almost got it right.. Pitches are fractions A 4 '' slope per ft is a 1/6th pitch . It is determined by a 24' span which would give you a4' total rise 1/6th of the span. so other pitches 5'' rise would be a 5/12th pitch.. a 8'' rise would be a 1/3 pitch
I just want to say that this might be one of the first video's I've ever commented on, but I've watched darn near all of yours. I'm just clearing the ground to build my own post frame house next door to you in Indiana and your videos have given me so much more confidence to do so! Thanks for all your tips and tricks! Keep them coming!
good luck with the build
I've never built a house, def not post frame, def not with rafters... More a DIY weekend warrior with an engineering background.
Just letting you know your audience! Love your work and videos like this... Maybe I'll put it to use one day, maybe not.
Shout out from Canada!
I can’t get enough of your math content… keep it up!
Excellent job, Kyle, as always. Thank you for those who this helped.
Not Confusing...you're great at teaching....have came a long way from you're first videos.
I want to thank you for taking the time to show, in this example, what you usually speed through in your videos, and I get dizzy trying to follow what you're trying to relate. I'm not a builder, per se, though the things I have done, I've done like you said you did early on...and that is place what I want where I want and measure it. I never got into trigonometry, after doing almost 8 years of Algebra, it got boring and I lost any interest in math, so thanks for re-inspiring and explaining in a way that makes sense and is a "field application" as you said in your last video, for those of us that watch if only for entertainment value. If I was 30 years younger, I'd like to take a crack at this post framing, but alas, I'll just enjoy watching you and learning what I can. 🙂
I learned so much in this video and that says a lot. Usually this stuff doesn’t “click” with me and I’ll spend hours on my calculator punching numbers in and magically finding my way back to where I started. I downloaded the CM Pro app and played around with it while I watched the video. That’s a game changer! Also dig the Toroe glasses. I love mine. Can’t believe how good they’ve held up for me.
I may never use this. Then again maybe I will. Knowledge is power. Thank you Kyle. And Greg. Somewhere in the background.
Yes! Please ask Mark to make more of those framing squares with the slot inside for his stair gauges!
I believe you can buy them
@@Dan-z6b3d I don’t see them on Marks website
Great tutorial.
Such a solid video mate, super clear explanation of something that quickly becomes a game changer when you are building on a productions scale. Always worth the couple extra minutes of lay out and math to ensure everything is high and tight. I am guilty for sure of just pulling a tape and not taking that extra 5 minutes. Thank you
Great video! So informative! Never done it before, but hope to apply the math to many more things I build! Love the channel brotha!
Awesome video! Easy to understand not planning on a build but I love learning new things that may help in the future.
Thanks for showing you touched one of the most difficult. Issues in framing. Cheers
Not really confused but, have to ask, the board in which you're fastening the rafter too, at the notched end you have, do you intend on using rafter/joist hangers? I've seen similar used like that and have seen that notch split right out over time, hence my question.
Your channel is the best on YT about building/framing, have learned a lot and still learning and some parts, still confused on. Truly enjoy your videos, cheers :)
Great video you taught me something. I would have just subtracted 3 1/2 without accounting for that extra 1/4 inch of the 2x4 diagonal and messed it up.
I sure woulda been scratching my head if i was lead on the site. Thanks
Great video, I've learned from you and your channel for a few years now, wether it's tips and tricks to tools and equipment. Thx for all of it good sir🤘🤘
Nice clear explaination. Well Done teaching.
Thanks for another great video full of very useful information!
Awesome video really deep content I think you broke my brain 😵💫 Really enjoy the channel thou thanks
relax, you explained it very well.
Kyle, you just took all the mystery out of rafter planning. Great job explaining. Math is your friend!
I learned an old-school trick from my grandpa. You set a nail at the top where the rafter will go and run a string down the lower edge. He took two 1-foot sections of 2x4 with a wing nut thru one end (think of the image of scissors without handles). He set that on top of the horizontal beam and pivoted one board to line up with the diagonal string. He tightened the wing nut and had the angle to transfer to the board. It was a simple matter to do the same for the top then measure the distance between the two top points and transfer the info to the rafter and cut.
Dude! The way you explain math is spot on. I love using the math to verify dimensions. Drives my wife and kids crazy😂.
Great video!
Thanks
Where did you get the pitch?..
Or, how do you get the pitch?
Hey Kyle just want to say thank you- this was so helpful!!!
awesome video, construction master pros are amazing
Good stuff, Kyle.
Here's your UA-cam algorithm booster commentary.
Very Clear. Good video. Just need a calculator like that!
Like Jimmy Diresta’s tips and tricks, your tips also will save years of trial and error.
That calculator is magical? which operations are done when entering rise and pitch?
Awesome video sir!
Looking for part 4 of the big build. Is it coming?
Outstanding! As a construction teacher, I use your videos often ✝️🙏😁
Do you teach rafter cutting
lol, I was wondering the same thing!😱😦@@Dan-z6b3d
Enjoy your videos. What is the device you are marking with ?
I got one for you of a similar nature. I am currently working on a house with all 12/12 pitches. The framers did an okay job until they started having to cut the valley rafters that met the valley board. Wow, I have never seen such butchery of a compound angle cut as those valley rafters where they met the valley ridge board. is that still even considered a ridge if it is the main beam of the valley? the house does a 35 degree kick at the worst location; the framers could not set their saws to the incredibly steep angle, so what do you do for that? Miter saw a 2x12? hard to match the angle still. These guys used a sawzall/reciprocating saw, it appears.
Hi, Kyle and Greg. Great videos, you gentlemen do excellent work. Keep it up. Quick question; was that an app you were using to do those calculations? If so, could I get the name of that? Thanks. Again, amazing work!
Construction Master Pro
I like your job sir... 23:20
Great information! I'm building a post frame myself. What framing process do you use to attach the rafter to the wall? I've watched several of your videos and have never seen what framing you use for the rafters on the walls for the porches. Can you please show that in a video?
Behind the building paper, he probably has nogging in between the studs the same width as the rafter at the correct height for the rafter to fix into
Very helpful!
Is the 9' run measurement including your eave or just from the wall to the 6x6 header?
Also you can double the 4/12 to 8/24 utilizing the full length of the square
not on this square...the inner dimension doesn't go all the way to 24
Shouldn’t the thickness of the sheathing be included in the calculation? Or too small for construction tolerance?
What are you using for a pencil?
What is the name of the computer tool on the phone?
Fuck yeah, math. I remember a while back I was like 3/8 off of your calculation, I think I figured it out. You take the center of the purlin, I was getting the edge. Thought you were taking into account the thickness of the sheathing. Interesting video
On another note, do you take into account the fascia on the run when calculating for purlin location?
In my point in my career I'm trying to be more efficient. I lost my "teacher" in an accident so I moved to another job where I'm the lead guy of a 1 man repair crew. I don't want to be the one holding boards and scribing or asking someone to help hold my tape from another crew. I want to learn the math myself so I can cut in the ground.
If you double both measurements, it’ll give you the same pitch, and allow you to get a bigger line. 4/12= 8/24
This probably gets easier if you do it frequently. The only rafters I've ever built are for a chicken coop. I'm definitely going back to an online calculator to just tell me the cuts if I have to do it again.
I guess your next vid should be how to calculate the hip or valley rafters?
Maybe so lol
What kind of pencils are those?
That lime green one is a Pica pencil. I believe Ox Tools also makes a blue variation.
18.417°
🙏
Those who said geometry was useless out in the real world clearly do not build anything.
agree 100%
Learn how to use a framing square .. all the measurements are on it!!
that app, does it also have metric? not going to go into how stupid imperial is, since the rest of the world think as i do :D if you want to keep doing imperial(which i guess is easy since you are taught only that, thats fine by me)
I coulda used this 3 months ago lol
Dont forget your hap
🎉🎉pro
Great Video - One thing! When using that calculator you should consider that any fraction is within the calculator a decimal for calculation purposes so it is best to use the result as apposed to retyping a result if you want to be really exact if cumulative error could be a factor - see Gary Kats explanation @9:40 - ua-cam.com/video/Pb6-8pUJZ4k/v-deo.html
Or … Asquared plus B squared is equal to C Q ..
Throw away the drawings on the back of cardboard boxes and the the calculator.
Get yourself the Full Length Roof Framer by A.F.J. Riechers, the bible of rafter cutting since 1917 renewed in 1944.
It gives detailed explanations as well as exact lengths of hips, valley and common rafters of pitches from 1/2: 12 to 24:12 for spans up to 50 ft.
Anything else is a complete waste of time. You'll have all the information you need in this pocket size masterpiece of roof framing before you find the cardboard to draw on...Guaranteed.
You'll be laying out and cutting your rafters long before any numbers are punched in a calculator. All the calculations were done and published in a book long before you were born.
I have used that book to cut rafter since 1964. You are right Here is something you may know this say a building is L shaped one span is 24' and the other is 18' you want a hip on the 18' side and a gable on the 24' side.. Hips and valleys are exactly the same length.the ridge is 1 1/2.. so figuring the 24' common raters you deduct 1 1/2 from 24' and look that up .23' 10 1/2 under common rafter. that would be the exact length of the plumb cut to the seat cut on the top edge of the rafter. to draw the seat put another plumb line at that point and slide a 2/4 flat until one edge reaches the bottom of the plumb cut... now look at the 18' side and do the same thing on the commons... then to get the length off the hip just look at the page the gives hip and valley and use the book length off the common and you just read off the length of the hip and valley no shorting needed, You can get the drop of the hip by using 4 and 17 marking on the 17 side. what is actually happening at the hip Say the common has a heel of 5 '' height above plate and you want the same on the hip well when you frame the hip it doesn't reach the point at the plate line so you could measur from the edge of the plate usually 3/4 '' and at that point make the seat 5'' HAP on the valley continue the seat cut 1/2 the with of the valley usually 3/4 and this will allow the hip to fit into the corner tight. it will also drop the hip
👍✌
Can you make a video for Europeans who only understand 'cm' ' degrees ' . We don't know inches and other American terminology 😅
Should you ever have to give up building for some reason (God forbid) I see teaching math in your future. (I’m sure your wife would hire you)Geometry was my favorite of all the math genres and once I became a carpentry student what I had learned in high school made perfect sense. ( and some dare to say you’ll never use this stuff)
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
I am wasting time not making money to show you idiots how with a downloaded App and a couple of known numbers can have a calculator do the calculations for me, although what I am showing you is not how to figure the problem but let the machine figure the problem for me to make more money. Honestly, very cool and very quick which is what is needed to get the job done accurately and quickly especially if you have a crew waiting for the dimensions and lengths needed to complete a job and not to waste money standing around.
I am now more confused than before I watched
Huh???
25 MINUTES ?
MORE LIKE FIVE MINUTES OR LESS
I love your math technique, but I do it differently. I know because you are measuring through a 90 degree or rise to run.I just know because 12/12 pitch always equal 45 degrees, so I just decided. Just divide 45 by 12 and multiply it by what the pitch recommended, witch is 4/12 pitch to get an angle of 15 degrees and every thing is straight fowards.
Except a 4/12 pitch creates angles of 18.43° and 14.04° on the acute angles respectively. Rounding to 15 would be a rough fit at best.
Hypotenuse
audio is so random... some videos are good, at industry standards, some, like this one are way too low... -6dB video guy... -6dB on the meters
Hard to explain to a homeowner
Imperial measures....what a nightmare for metric technicans
You didnt do any math...you took measurements and inserted them into a computer that gave you a semi close enough anwer to frame your simple project... ive seen many so called builders walk on a job site acting like they can frame because of their construction pro...without fail they are embarrassed everytime anything even slightly complex comes up. Good luck on a broken ridge, bastard hip, long run hips, timber framing, turrets, falling archs, tutors ect.
For what he does, it's plenty. He's not building complex hips. Let's see your business.
@@tamugrad2007 lol I'm currently running a 30 million dollar job ass clown but thanks for your worthless comment that still doesn't mean he used any math.
There is no such thing as a 4/12 pitch... Pitch is the relationship between the span of the building and the total rise of the roof . A 4-12 slope based on a 24' span A woud be a 1/6 pitch the best way to calculate rafters is a raffter book
You’re wrong.
If you want to know why you’re wrong,best way to find a definition, is to use a dictionary or just google it.
If there is a defination on the internet about 4/12 pitch that article is mixed up@@scottallen5269
@@scottallen5269 Pitces are in fractions Like a 4 rise per foot is a 1/6th pitch
@@Dan-z6b3d You have the information at your finger tips. Go look up the definition of roof pitch. Once you know the definition, you can see that if ask a person what is the roof pitch on a house, they can say it’s a 4/12.
The pitch, is the slope of the roof that that fraction is describing.
It's how the yanks describe it. Every 4 up gives a pitch.
It's actually 18.4°
Way over complicated , been a Carpenter / custom home builder for 45 years. All you need is a pice of plywood with a right angle measure up 4”” for your rise from the corner then measure 12” across the bottom for your run nail a 1 x 2 cleat from both points and your done. Same thing with stairs . It would take less then 3 mins to show some one and the story is over. The distance from the 2 points is your run per foot. Sorry man this is ridiculous. No calculator , no framing square with square dogs no bs just a 12 “ x 16” pice of ply wood .
Tools are cool. You do you.
I wonder what you are trying to accomplish? making people more confused??
Nobody understands a word you're saying. It's not 4-12, it has to be so many degrees!
Pitch is always in run/twelve. The only angle you need to know is which one is 90°. But, since you seem to need to know, the acute angles are 18.43 and 14.04.
Pütagoras. A2&&B2=C2
Excellent, Excellent, Excellent. Kyle you keep nailing it big time on the content you produce and share with all of us. I'm a fan. Here is one suggestion, maybe you can add a rafter with an overhang so a bird mouth would have to be cut into the rafter. It would be nice to illustrate the math behind and the actual cut of a bird mouth. Plus I enjoy the tutorial on the use of the Construction Master 5 software.
Sure
There is no math cutting a birds mouth... Here is how say the rafter is a 2/6. you can use a scrap to make a pattern take one about 24'' lay it flat so the part on the left is the ridge and to the right would be the birds mouth. say the roof is 6'' rise... lay a square on the material with the edge off the board put the 6'' and 12'' so you can draw a line on the 6'' giving you a plumb cut now if you wall plate is 3 1/2 then take a small 2.4 scap and slide it down the plumb line until it first touches the bottom of the board... A 2x4 is about the biggest birds mouth you can use because it would weaken the heel off the rafter if you want a 2'' birds mouth rip a small piecd 2'' and use that
This breakdown synopsis changed a gear in my mind. I’m sort of a hands on learner. Having a consistent method to approach roof framing takes some of the intimidation out of it.
If you have time for further explanation and demonstration, I bet a whole bunch of folks could make the leap into trusting themselves to pull this off.
Learning how to use the two tools: speed square and framing square, in multiple scenarios, would help us learn a confident approach.
Thanks for the time you take explaining, the drawings, math, the practical cuts.
This video is well done. When I was young in the trades an older Master Carpenter told me that carpentry was just common sense. That is what you explained in this video. I was also told, "the mark of a good carpenter is no mark at all, make it look like it grew there." You showed the rafter grow from the side of that building.
If you look on your framing square all the info you need is there.
This was FREAKIN' GREAT!!!!! THANK YOU for "wasting" your time to teach us...
You made the carpenters calculator so easy!!! I build metal buildings!! I've been doing it almost a decade and owned my own business for 3 years, and you just made my life so much easier!! Thank you!!!
You method is cute and archaic.....I use trigonometry which is older, cuter and even more archaic.
Your buddy could make a killing selling those framing squares, I need one
if your doing common rafters alot get yourself a rafter book dont even have to do math on it just figure out your overall length and the book will tell you how to cut it
Or just do the math
Great video and explanation thanks for sharing
I first learned wall framing layout and then my grandfather taught me common rafters using the step-off method to get birdmouth cuts.
Brilliant! Way to make it look easy
Thank you, that really helped me get it right.
The sound is pretty low on this video, just wanted to make you aware
No issues here
We are putting up SIPs walls and trusses on our pole barn.
I vote yes for the epic 3 1/2 hour super in-depth every single little detail video. I've learned a lot from you and I really enjoy it when you go into the details.
Thanks for the videos mate!! Great help for sure!! One question though; what order should your info be entered?? I noticed if you enter run, rise, pitch; you'll get a different diagonal than rise, run, pitch or even pitch, rise, run. So what is the correct order and why are there different answers??
Thanks Kyle, very informative, just the right amount of explanation with the app, drawings and a great practical example to go with it!
How do I attach my rafters to my outside walls with no overhang, no birds mouth. I can’t go any further than the outside edge of the stud wall.
The only weight this is supporting is the wood itself and the drywall. Building vaulted ceiling within an already existing metal building.