I find not only are your videos informing and inspirational, but relaxing and soothing. I'm not kidding. I ordered some oxalic acid today to try and get some black ring marks off a very old dresser I got for $10. I hope the acid works.
Hey Tom, that really worked well. Sanding and then apply the acid. Just to mention, I'm always in awe when I look at an old piece like that. Especially if it has really wide boards in it. Given the age you gave the chest , and the width of the boards, that wood could be, maybe, 400 years old. Oh and that hardware was awesome. Great video, please keep shareing , I'm getting to see stuff I probably, would never see. Thanks.
Grazie! Adoriamo l'Italia, ci siamo stati lo scorso autunno. Ci dispiace che il virus abbia colpito così duramente lì. In bocca al lupo! Ti auguro il meglio
@@johnsonrestoration Adoro vedere con quanta esperienza a maestria restauri i mobili antichi, quasi sembri un chirurgo, dopo tornano belli e nuovi. Un saluto Thomas Johnson L'Italia si risolleverà ancora una volta !
Hi Tom. Great Restore. Real neat looking chest. The gray spot really came out. We have been doing a lot chest restorations lately. There fun to do. Hows everything ? I have been a little AWOL here on youtube. Just got a new shop in november, so dealing with that move and with all the work is hard to keep up with my favorite youtubers. Hopefully I will get some videos up soon. Have a lot of projects to share. Thanks, Michael Frey FREY WOODWORKING INC.
Nice job on the chest, to bad it was stripped at some point. I imagine by that fancy B, in the center of the front, the original painted finish could have been impressive. Of course the paint could have also been so damaged over time that it couldn't practically been saved or be presentable. Thanks for the video.
Hi Tom, do you find drying overnight is long enough for your various cleaning and finishing processes? I would have thought at least 2 nights are needed, or are you saying "overnight" for the sake of video editing?
Yes I do! If conditions are humid I might give shellac and varnish a couple of extra days. I will also put on the heat, even in hot and humid weather to be sure it drys
Tom I've watched many of your clips and am really enjoying them. One treatment you do that I don't understand is the varnishing or painting on shellac etc followed by sanding. Why do you paint on tung oil or shellac etc, and then sand it off? 🤔
Nice strap hinges and handles. Too bad they stripped it. I have one from early 19th century that has the original red brown. The lock needs repair and the key is bent though. Don’t know if I’ll bother or not.
@@johnsonrestoration when I bought it it was the first blanket chest I ever owned that even had a key and that locked. When I unlocked it in spite of the key being bent, the lock mechanism and some wood fell out. I saved everything just in case but I was disappointed. I’ll send you a pix here. For the life of me I can’t get the picture to copy to my post. Maybe I’ll send it separately
Hi. Nice work. I am restoring a similar blanket box at the moment. What’s the best way to restore the inside of the box and still allow it to be used as a blanket box? I’ve sanded with 80 then 120 grit paper and then cleaned using 0000 steel wool and mentholated spirits. Still some marks but not bad. What next to seal it but not stain blankets?
Thanks! I have never finished the inside of a blanket chest. But I always finish the inside of drawers that will be used for clothes, and I always use 2 coats of shellac. I coat, dry overnight at least, sand with 220, then 2nd coat. Allow a few days to thoroughly dry
Mr. Johnson, It is with some concern, that i have noticed, how you work with epoxy in your videos. Epoxy is carcinogenic and mutagenic, causing a wide range of deceases and ailments. In my home country of Denmark, a specific course in safety must be taken, and a licence to prove it, must be carried at all times during the work. Special gloves must be worn along with skin-,eye- and respiratoryprotection. And empty containers, left over epoxy and garbage must be disposed of at a government licenced disposal facility. Failing to do any of the before mentioned, carries heavy fines. (In Denmark, of course). Otherwise wonderful work and videos! Please excuse any grammatical errors, or impoliteness, as English is not my native language. Sincerely A.B. Lindsmann
I really like the informative part of his videos, but I am disappointed with the latest edited 5- 15-minute stripped-down versions! The first half dozen or so that I watched were around 30-45 minute long and the attention to detail was the informative parts.
Thanks! When I started, I was determined to keep the videos as short as possible, the assumption was that on UA-cam, everyone had short attention spans. But the demand for longer, more detailed videos grew quickly, and you will see in my videos of the past 3 years the good, the bad, and the ugly
,@@johnsonrestoration, Your knowledge of finishes, and how to get the desired results and your ability with tools was impressive! your shorter edited versions are a disappointment. I am repeating myself! All that are presented recently seem to be the 5- 10-minute versions.
@@johnsonrestoration may I suggest R0DE microphones? we are using them a lot and they do a very nice job, specially about reducing unwanted noise. www.amazon.com/Rode-WIGOW-Wireless-White-Edition/dp/B086YZGCX2/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=rode&qid=1623015579&sr=8-9
Yup!
I think it looks pretty good too!
Thanks Connie!
I find not only are your videos informing and inspirational, but relaxing and soothing. I'm not kidding. I ordered some oxalic acid today to try and get some black ring marks off a very old dresser I got for $10. I hope the acid works.
Thanks for watching! Good luck!
Another great video Tom. Can't tell you how much I have learned from you. Thanks.
Lawrence Jackmin You're welcome and thanks for watching
Tom, you do great work! Thanks for sharing,
+Bob Perry You're welcome!
What a great piece. You made look like it never needed refinishing. Awesome.
Thank you very much!
Very nice with some videos popping up from you again, as always very inspiring. Keep posting your good work for us to enjoy.
Parken26 Thanks! I intend to keep making them!
I agree it looks pretty good.
Bill Bumpus Thanks!
Very nice work, Thanks
J Fred You're welcome!
Hey Tom, that really worked well. Sanding and then apply the acid. Just to mention, I'm always in awe when I look at an old piece like that. Especially if it has really wide boards in it. Given the age you gave the chest , and the width of the boards, that wood could be, maybe, 400 years old. Oh and that hardware was awesome. Great video, please keep shareing , I'm getting to see stuff I probably, would never see. Thanks.
billfromelma You're welcome!
UN GRANDISSIMO MAESTRO RESTAUTATORE MOBILI ANTICHI !!!!
Grazie! Adoriamo l'Italia, ci siamo stati lo scorso autunno. Ci dispiace che il virus abbia colpito così duramente lì. In bocca al lupo! Ti auguro il meglio
@@johnsonrestoration Adoro vedere con quanta esperienza a maestria restauri i mobili antichi, quasi sembri un chirurgo, dopo tornano belli e nuovi.
Un saluto Thomas Johnson
L'Italia si risolleverà ancora una volta !
Hi Tom. Great Restore. Real neat looking chest. The gray spot really came out. We have been doing a lot chest restorations lately. There fun to do. Hows everything ? I have been a little AWOL here on youtube. Just got a new shop in november, so dealing with that move and with all the work is hard to keep up with my favorite youtubers. Hopefully I will get some videos up soon. Have a lot of projects to share.
Thanks, Michael Frey
FREY WOODWORKING INC.
FWI356 Hi Mike, congratulations on the new shop! I have been wondering where you've been! I'll check out your channel and see what you've been up to
A++++
Oxalic acid is pretty handy stuff. We Beekeepers vaporize it with heat to kill the mites on the Bees.
Woah! I never heard of that! My hives were wiped out with mites. I'll have to give it another try.
Nice job on the chest, to bad it was stripped at some point. I imagine by that fancy B, in the center of the front, the original painted finish could have been impressive. Of course the paint could have also been so damaged over time that it couldn't practically been saved or be presentable. Thanks for the video.
zachtownsend1 Yes, it's always too bad it doesn't have the original finish but there could have been a very good reason to strip it. I hope so!
WOW ! :-)
Thanks! I appreciate you watching so many videos!
Hi Tom, do you find drying overnight is long enough for your various cleaning and finishing processes? I would have thought at least 2 nights are needed, or are you saying "overnight" for the sake of video editing?
Yes I do! If conditions are humid I might give shellac and varnish a couple of extra days. I will also put on the heat, even in hot and humid weather to be sure it drys
Awesome job.
Where do you buy your acid at, I live in N.C. and can't seem to find it anywhere,
+Lee Goins I get it from Hood Finishing Products, they're online
Tom I've watched many of your clips and am really enjoying them. One treatment you do that I don't understand is the varnishing or painting on shellac etc followed by sanding. Why do you paint on tung oil or shellac etc, and then sand it off? 🤔
Thanks! No, I'm sanding the finish itself with very fine paper - 320 and 500, smoothing it for subsequent coats
@@johnsonrestoration I see so you only take a little off before you add another coat. I'm learning a lot from you! 👍
what is the difference between the use of steel wool and sandpaper in poilshing ?
Thanks! The sand paper will actually cut down and level the finish, the steel wool cuts a little but basically just smooths
Curious if anyone ever asks to restore original paint color. Would be fascinating to see a video on that.
Thanks! I have done jobs like that. If one comes along I'll make a video
......👍👌🏻
Thanks!
Nice strap hinges and handles. Too bad they stripped it. I have one from early 19th century that has the original red brown. The lock needs repair and the key is bent though. Don’t know if I’ll bother or not.
Thanks! I'd like to see that paint! And yes, it might just be best not to fuss with it
@@johnsonrestoration when I bought it it was the first blanket chest I ever owned that even had a key and that locked. When I unlocked it in spite of the key being bent, the lock mechanism and some wood fell out. I saved everything just in case but I was disappointed. I’ll send you a pix here. For the life of me I can’t get the picture to copy to my post. Maybe I’ll send it separately
🤝🤝😍❤
Thanks!
Hi. Nice work. I am restoring a similar blanket box at the moment. What’s the best way to restore the inside of the box and still allow it to be used as a blanket box? I’ve sanded with 80 then 120 grit paper and then cleaned using 0000 steel wool and mentholated spirits. Still some marks but not bad. What next to seal it but not stain blankets?
Thanks! I have never finished the inside of a blanket chest. But I always finish the inside of drawers that will be used for clothes, and I always use 2 coats of shellac. I coat, dry overnight at least, sand with 220, then 2nd coat. Allow a few days to thoroughly dry
Mr. Johnson,
It is with some concern, that i have noticed, how you work with epoxy in your videos.
Epoxy is carcinogenic and mutagenic, causing a wide range of deceases and ailments.
In my home country of Denmark, a specific course in safety must be taken, and a licence to prove it, must be carried at all times during the work.
Special gloves must be worn along with skin-,eye- and respiratoryprotection.
And empty containers, left over epoxy and garbage must be disposed of at a government licenced disposal facility.
Failing to do any of the before mentioned, carries heavy fines. (In Denmark, of course).
Otherwise wonderful work and videos!
Please excuse any grammatical errors, or impoliteness, as English is not my native language.
Sincerely
A.B. Lindsmann
Andreas Bach Lindsmann Wow, that's interesting. Luckily I don't use it much, but I'll definitely be more careful. Thanks!
I really like the informative part of his videos, but I am disappointed with the latest edited 5- 15-minute stripped-down versions! The first half dozen or so that I watched were around 30-45 minute long and the attention to detail was the informative parts.
Thanks! When I started, I was determined to keep the videos as short as possible, the assumption was that on UA-cam, everyone had short attention spans. But the demand for longer, more detailed videos grew quickly, and you will see in my videos of the past 3 years the good, the bad, and the ugly
,@@johnsonrestoration, Your knowledge of finishes, and how to get the desired results and your ability with tools was impressive! your shorter edited versions are a disappointment. I am repeating myself! All that are presented recently seem to be the 5- 10-minute versions.
NO, YOU DON'T HAVE TO BLEACH THE ENTIRE TOP,JUST THE STAIN.JUST WET THE REST OF THE TOP TO BLEND THE COLOR.
Hi, thanks for watching! I didn't bleach the top, I used oxalic acid. Always best to do the entire surface to avoid any problems
I strongly agree with Tim on this.
... should have got a new mic while you were at it... that hum is bad
Thanks! Yeah, sound has been a problem, we replaced all the flourescents with LED's so the hum is now gone!
your new camera has terrible background noise.
Thanks! Noise is a problem - we're working on it
@@johnsonrestoration may I suggest R0DE microphones? we are using them a lot and they do a very nice job, specially about reducing unwanted noise. www.amazon.com/Rode-WIGOW-Wireless-White-Edition/dp/B086YZGCX2/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=rode&qid=1623015579&sr=8-9
Looks like a coffin. Lolol sorry
Thanks! That's OK, it does!