Probably the best filmed, best explained tutorial I have seen. Well done, thanks. I have two of these giving me issues. One starves occasionally on a late model Toro, one on a newish Husqvarna over fuels occasionally. Still looking for answers !!
I have the 24.5 hp version of the same engine and this cleaning seems to have worked. The only difference is that mine doesn’t have a spring attached to the throttle linkage. At first I wasn’t sure because it was running bad intermittently and stalling but it cleared up and then I was able to mow an acre with no more issues. Thank you!
Awesome! You're welcome. This one also had a spring attached to the choke. I noticed that when you pull the choke lever, it would retract slightly and made it very hard to start when cold.. Upon investigating, I saw what was happening and removed the spring. It starts cold without much trouble every time. I can't imagine the factory doesn't know about this and why they put it there is beyond me.
Awesome video my friend. Just purchased the 42 inchTimecutter and it gets delivered tomorrow. I've just been going over the owners manual and your videos to be familiar with the mower. Thanks again and well done.
You're welcome..! I'm glad I could help. I really like the mower, although mine actually has developed a transaxle leak in one of the axles. It's under warranty, so I'm going to let them fix it..☹️
Want to thank you for this video Rudy. Trying to become more self-reliant and would never be planning on tackling cleaning the carb on my Toro Timecutter without it!
I have the TORO SW4200 74784 Twin engine 24.5 HP, which I think this one is. I think it is the 2015 model but it has less than 100 operational hours on it. It has sat in a protected closed storage locker for 2 years. The problem is that with fully charged battery and fresh fuel after sitting , it will crank fine but not start, after three tries on just premium gas, until i hit it with a shot of starter fluid on the fourth try. It will initially run for about 5 seconds after the FIRST hit of starter fluid (fourth try) and then die. It will do this usually 3 times and then run. Usually I only 'hit it' with the starter fluid twice, (like the FOURTH AND SIXTH TRY if necessary). Once it got running it surged for quite a while but finally pretty much smoothed out after about 15 minutes of running and driving (deck removed). Low speed is a bit shaky...doesn't cut out but surges a bit. I am trying to sell it because it is a clean machine but I can't sell it if I have to 'hit it' with starter fluid each time, which seems to be the case if it sits for a day or two after the last start & run. I don't see any videos for this unique problem...most seem to be saying if you can't get it started at all. I am going to change the plugs today but they were new about a month before I let it sit at the end of 2019. Suggestions?
It sounds like there still could be some trash in the carburetor.. Did you drain out the old fuel from the gas tank before adding new? After sitting, I usually flush the tank out with water, replace the fuel filter, and clean out the carburetor... Also if you are having a surging problem there could be a clog with your Low Speed Jets... I don't remember if that particular carburetor has them. Heres a video I did a while back on this problem. I know it's for a Nikki carburetor, but the problem your having may be similar.. ua-cam.com/video/dnEgZ_uqxiQ/v-deo.html Hope that helps..
I had this exact same problem. This video is amazing and helped me rebuild the carburetor, which I did with a kit. Cleaned it all out like brand new (although it wasn't that dirty to being with). But it didn't fix the problem. I'm pretty sure it's the fuel cutoff solenoid which is attached to the carb bowl but is not removed in this video. If you remove it, you can test it to see if it snaps in when you turn the starter key one click. Mine just barely pulls back in when charged, so I'm ordering a new one. Toro V-Twin Fuel Solenoid Kit (127-9292). It's about $35. If after testing this one, it snaps back in, then that will be the problem, I think. Basically, initial fuel getting into the chamber as it's not snapping back when turning the key. Maybe see if that solves your problem, too?
HI, yes you can also test those solenoids by pushing in the plunger with your finger.. they should come back right away instead of being sluggish about it... Sounds like a good possibility that's your problem.. 😀
Hi Rudy, great video! I appreciate all the details. My 60" timecutter has been sitting idle for the winter season and didn't start for this spring season - it simply doesn't crank over! So far I've determined it's not the battery, or the solenoid, or the break control module, or the air filter (I only have ~20 hours on mine). I'll be checking the spark plugs next, but it did have a bit of left over gasoline in the tank, and I'm thinking it may be the carburetor because of all those months of sitting?
HI, not cranking over? Its probably an electrical problem.. Most likely not the spark plugs or carb if its physically not turning over... Can you hear the starter engaging? Or is it engaging but doesn't have enough torque to turn the engine?
I believe it’s the latter, where it doesn’t have enough torque to fire. I’m planning to also try using some starter fluid to give it a boost. I’ll try to keep you posted, in case this helps someone in the future. Thank you for your detailed video and your reply!
Just wanted to issue a final update, in case some future reader finds this useful. So I was able to get my mower started! After checking all that I mentioned previously, I still suspected the buildup of old gasoline in the carb. I bought starting fluid and sprayed a small amount directly into the air intake. The first time, it chocked and nearly started - I tried a few more times, and then I sprayed the 2nd time. It started and died after about a second (I think due to my fault, as I forgot to release choke and didn’t throttle). I sprayed the third time, and it fired up! I then throttled her to the max and let her run for a bit. Then mowed some grass, and turned her off, and had no problems starting her back up! I hope this helps someone.
@@rinuxachva8538 I wonder what the original problem was? If there's a buildup of gas, can you let it set for a few days and then try again. The needle and seat in the carb might be leaking past. If it leaks into the cylinder it'll cause a hydro-lock in the cylinder and keep the engine from turning over. Pull the oil dipstick and make sure the oil doesn't have a gasoline odor..
I am a former small engine guy but a few years removed from that. I now have a lawns business for the last 7 years. My dad broke the timecutter i gave him haha. It will run for 20 minutes or so then cut out. It will still turn over and start sometimes though it surges and eventually dies a few minutes later. Def not electrical or safety switch related. The surging tells me its carburetor or fuel supply related in some fashion. I cleaned the tank which had a bunch of debris in it and also the carb. The fuel solenoid cut off works. The filter has a little stuff in it but seems like its doing its job. there is fuel in the carb when it dies and surges. I thought about replacing fuel lines as maybe one is collapsing somewhere but idk. Any ideas?
HI, just guessing that there's some trash in the system somewhere that has contaminated one of the small jets in the carb. If I saw debris in the fuel tank, it's a pretty good bet that some of that has made it's way into the carb. Usually I will flush the tank out with a water hose and let it dry. Of course with a rear tank and the way it's mounted they don't make it easy to remove it and do that... The next best thing would be to disconnect the fuel line and flush it out.. maybe use a shop vac with a hose that'll fit through the fuel cap and suck the water and whatever trash you can out of the tank. I would also replace the fuel lines and filter, then clean the carb again. There could be something small in the system that you're not able to see. If the problem persists after that, then have to re-evaluate the problem!..
@@JLPicard440 Thank you. I will be replacing the fule lines and filter and cleaning carb again. The tank on this particular toro mx4200 timecutter is a side saddle tank so 3 screws to remove the side cover and a single clip that holds the tank in. I did remove and flush with water then dry for a couple of days. When I cleaned the carb last time I didnt take the jets or emulsion tubes out so Ill do that this time around. Thanks for the info. I also noticed it was down to the low mark on oil but I dont think these engines have a low oil sensor that could be giving me issues as the oil heats up and maybe starting to trip the sensor after a while of ruinning. For what the engines cost they should have a low oil sensor!
Oh wow! I'd have to check mine to see if there's a sensor for the oil... Should be on the block somewhere. Even if it doesn't I'd still fill the oil to the mark on the dipstick (I know, I'm stating the obvious!). Yep, hopefully another carb cleaning will take care of the issues. With new fuel lines you shouldn't have any trash contaminating anything.. 😀
@@JLPicard440 Okay sooooo this is going to sound dumb but I never checked the fuel filter. I had changed it this spring and thought nothing of it. I took it off after disassembling and cleaning carb and checking everything else I could think of. I topped the oil off as well but no change. It acted like fuel starvation. Running fine for a while then dying then surging on restart at full throttle. At idle it would die. So anyhow I took the filter off and in the inlet was a folded up piece of leaf. Hooked the fuel line up direct since I dont have access to a filter until tomorrow and bam. Ran great for an hour. Theres your update and maybe this will help someone else in the future. Check the simple things first.
Hi I like this video I learned something . I have a related question is there a way to adjust the air /fuel mix on these carbs? if so will you tell me show me or point me in the right direction
Don't quote me on this, but I don't remember seeing an adjustment screw for that. I think the only way to do that would be to play with the sizes of the main jet.
I can't get the two emulsion tubes to slide out of the carburetor body, they're stuck with crud in there from months of sitting with bad corn gas in it. Any suggestions on how to get the tubes out? Another question, can i put a wrench on the solenoid and back it out the body??
HI, Yes I've seen some stubborn ones. They do usually just come right out, but if they don't i've taken a screwdriver and where you see the brass piece of the emulsion tube protruding into the carburetor venturi and just press it to get it started out. If you get it started, but then it bottoms out and you can't press it any further, I've used a small enough allen wrench to fit down through the hole and keep pushing it out. You can also try some PB blaster and soak the area where the emulsion tube lives and let it sit for a while to hopefully soften the crud.. Hope that helps.. 😀
@@JLPicard440 I got one of them out by literally rapping the carbeurator body on the bench pretty hard. The other one I had to take a drill bit that was just slightly smaller than the opening in the emulsion tube, cock it to the side at a slight angle so it bites into the tube, then back it out. That worked for me anyway. After cleaning it as thoroughly as I coul, I'm still having trouble with the gas getting through to the cylinders. I can spray starting fluid while spinning the motor over and it will run for a couple seconds, so it's gotta be not getting gas. I guess some tiny little port somewhere in this carbuerator is clogged up?? It had sat for 8 months when I got it, the gas in the tank had turned orange, so yeah, I drained it all out. THe inside of the carbuerator float bowl area was FILTHY dirty with crud. I may have to suck it up and buy a new one for $248. 😒
Oh no! One thing I like to do is use ethanol free fuel and then still add stabilizer to that too.. You also might want to check the fuel pump by pulling the discharge line off and pointing it into a glass jar. Then crank the engine over to make sure fuel is coming out like it should... A good steady stream. If the fuel pump is working, then it sounds like something is still clogged up.. Also I don't know if there's aftermarket carburetors for Toro, but sometimes those aftermarket carburetors can be $50 or less... Something to look at...
I have this exact same motor and am just replacing my carburetor and it comes with 3 gaskets 2 with 2 holes and 1 with a big opening any idea what that is for? I figured the 2 gaskets with 2 holes is for each side of the carburetor, but unsure of the big mouth one.
HI, sometimes those carburetors will come with extra gaskets for different applications. Do you have your original gaskets? If so, I would match up the new ones with the old ones and just use those... 😊
HI, many times the surging is caused by a problem with the low side jet in the carburetor. I don't remember if I addressed that in this video. I did a video on this a while back, it was on a briggs engine, but the principal should be the same: ua-cam.com/video/dnEgZ_uqxiQ/v-deo.html I hope this helps!
This was a fantastic video. I have a Toro SWX-5050 that is about 5 years old (170 hours). It recently developed a problem wherein it runs rough when not under load. Under load (blades turning and moving forward) it is fine. Sitting still with the blades off it surges like it is not getting enough fuel. This behavior also happens occasionally when driving without the blades turning. I replaced the fuel filter, air filter and spark plugs. I also did the carburetor cleaning as mentioned above (used a piece of wire to clean the fuel jets instead of torch cleaners, but the carburetor looked very clean on the inside even before doing this work). I will try again with some torch cleaners that I ordered from Amazon. I noticed there are two air jets at the top of the carburetor which can be removed by taking out a Philips head screw. I did not do that. Any chance that is the problem - or do you have other ideas?
Forgot to mention - when not under load, it runs smoother with a little choke applied (ca. 1/4 choke), which is what leads me to believe there is a fuel system / carburetor issue.
HI Mark. I would definitely take out the other jets. Some carburetors have an actual plate that is held down by screws and I've seen those jets right there cause a surge. I can't remember if the Toro one is like that or not, but it's worth a try if you have something like that.
The 5th carb has been delivered and they said that has been put on and they said they want to keep for 2 days to do more testing on it, I should get it by Monday will let you know.
Nice video. Brake cleaner can dissolve your rubber gaskets or seals or O rings. Carb cleaner will not. Carb cleaner is bad on nitrile gloves. Brake cleaner is bad on your skin and so is carb cleaner. You should use carb cleaner and wear neoprene gloves.
I usually don't use the brake cleaner any seals or gaskets. Usually just on bare metal. IF there's an occasional o-ring or something in there, I've not had any troubles in the past. I use the brake clean because it's a little cheaper than carb cleaner. You're right, the carb cleaner would be better, but I'm cheap! Thanks for the info.
We have exact mower just bought it a year ago used it started stalling after about 10 or so cuts 1 plus acre cuts, cleaned carb, new plugs and it ran good but now it stalls again after about 10 mins I'm stumped... any help is appreciated
They just told me that the carburetor was bad then the next time there was bad gas, I told them it was the same gas I run all my Equpment on. Then it was back to bad carburetor. The number 5 has been delved. I will keep you informed .
Thanks for the wonderful video! I got a same zero turn with you but the problem is that it kicks the starter motor(it spins very well) but it won’t start the actual engine. Is there anything I can try?
Oh wow... there are several things it could be... Check the spark (you can spray a small amount of starting fluid in the carburetor if you don't have a spark checker). Check to make sure the fuel pump is working (unhook the fuel line from the carburetor and put the end of the fuel line in a jar, then crank the engine and make sure a good amount of fuel comes out..), carburetor could be clogged up, fuel might have water in it, if it's none of those things, check the compression. Theres other possiblities. If there's no compression, there is bigger problem going on with the engine..
@@harryim3218 A wrench won't work very well. Usually I use a deep well socket. It varies on mowers.. some are 5/8, 3/4 and 13/16 are the main ones I think. I don't remember which one this one was..
Wife got Zero Turn stuck in mud. After I dragged it out I tried re engaging the blades and it stopped ad killed the engine. Spindle went bad? Any suggestions to start with? I'd rather try myself before taking it to somebody.
Arrrgh... I've done that before myself! 1st thing is a visual inspection. Look under the deck to see if the blades look ok... Look at the belts and pulleys and see if anything looks wrong. If everything looks ok visually, try to remove the belt from the engine pulley. Then once the belt is removed start the engine and activate the PTO to see if the engine dies. IF it does, then you've got an electrical safety switch problem. Also with the belt removed you should be able to manually spin things to see if there's any problems anywhere. Hope that helps..
Fuel shut off switch was my issue , 6hrs on the engine and sit in garage for 1 year, purchaser of unit put gas in and tried to start drawing the E85 fuel that must have had water in it. After fuel system drain, tank removed and all . assembled still would not start. switch was not checked , sure enough that was my issue.
Excellent! Glad you were able to figure it out. Seems like I read in the book that E85 could cause damage to the engine? I could be remembering wrong..
I have stripped the carby on my Toro but it is not getting fuel. I will take the fuel solenoid off and check it out. Is this solenoid necessary or can l by-pass it? It seems to be there only to stop the fuel from flooding the carby when the engine us stopped. What's the go on this solenoid? Can l get rid of it?
I don't recommend trying to bypass that. I believe it suppresses backfiring. Without it, I don't know what would happen. To much backfire and the head gasket will probably blow. Is it getting power? Have you taken it off yet to see if the plunger is moving freely?
@@JLPicard440 Thanks for the reply, l will take the solenoid out in the morning and test it and see if it is opening when the key is switched on. It has been backfiring a lot when trying to start, especially when it's hot. Will test it in the morning.
@@jbonnell1117 Weird thing about the Toro engine.. They recommend starting and stopping the engine with more than 3/4 throttle to prevent backfiring.. I don't like that personally, especially after it's been sitting. I like to start the engine on an idle to give the oil a chance to circulate. Briggs has no problem with this, but this is the recommended way by Toro. Have you been doing that?
@@JLPicard440 I will remove the solenoid when l get home. I have tried stopping the engine at 1/2 or 3/4 throttle but it makes no difference. I am putting a tap in the fuel line next to the carby. This will be turned off when stopping and turned on to start and run. If all fails, l can simply turn off the fuel and let it run out till it stops.
Have you tried getting the engine model number and you can look up parts on toro.com/en/parts. I think there's a parts breakdown there so you can identify that gasket.. (not sure if the parts breakdown will show that gasket by itself)
You should be able to take your engine model number and look it up online... or if you have a local Toro dealer they'll be able to look it up for you and probably get it too...
@@JLPicard440 i have a Toro zero turn mower that I cleaned the carburetor because it didn’t idle and after cleaned the carburetor, change fuel filter, clean pump, clean tank & check the solenoid still up and down revolutions and don’t idle. What you think can happen?
Thats a surge. Usually caused by a carburetor issue on the low speed jet. I don't remember if this Toro has that or not, but here's a video I did on a Briggs engine a while back that shows what I did to fix it. It might give you something to look for on the Toro.. ua-cam.com/video/dnEgZ_uqxiQ/v-deo.html
Probably the best filmed, best explained tutorial I have seen. Well done, thanks. I have two of these giving me issues. One starves occasionally on a late model Toro, one on a newish Husqvarna over fuels occasionally. Still looking for answers !!
Wow... thanks for the great feedback. You're welcome.. 😊😊
I have the 24.5 hp version of the same engine and this cleaning seems to have worked. The only difference is that mine doesn’t have a spring attached to the throttle linkage. At first I wasn’t sure because it was running bad intermittently and stalling but it cleared up and then I was able to mow an acre with no more issues. Thank you!
Awesome! You're welcome. This one also had a spring attached to the choke. I noticed that when you pull the choke lever, it would retract slightly and made it very hard to start when cold.. Upon investigating, I saw what was happening and removed the spring. It starts cold without much trouble every time. I can't imagine the factory doesn't know about this and why they put it there is beyond me.
Thank you so much for this video! I was looking everywhere for something about my mower and I finally found your video.
Sweet.. happy to do it. You're welcome.. 🙂
Awesome video my friend. Just purchased the 42 inchTimecutter and it gets delivered tomorrow. I've just been going over the owners manual and your videos to be familiar with the mower. Thanks again and well done.
You're welcome..! I'm glad I could help. I really like the mower, although mine actually has developed a transaxle leak in one of the axles. It's under warranty, so I'm going to let them fix it..☹️
Want to thank you for this video Rudy. Trying to become more self-reliant and would never be planning on tackling cleaning the carb on my Toro Timecutter without it!
Wow! That's awesome... so glad I could help.. 😀
Very well done! Thanks solved my problem. Be sure to watch the solenoid wire path when removing!
Good point! You're welcome, and thanks for the great feedback..
I have the TORO SW4200 74784 Twin engine 24.5 HP, which I think this one is. I think it is the 2015 model but it has less than 100 operational hours on it. It has sat in a protected closed storage locker for 2 years. The problem is that with fully charged battery and fresh fuel after sitting , it will crank fine but not start, after three tries on just premium gas, until i hit it with a shot of starter fluid on the fourth try. It will initially run for about 5 seconds after the FIRST hit of starter fluid (fourth try) and then die. It will do this usually 3 times and then run. Usually I only 'hit it' with the starter fluid twice, (like the FOURTH AND SIXTH TRY if necessary). Once it got running it surged for quite a while but finally pretty much smoothed out after about 15 minutes of running and driving (deck removed). Low speed is a bit shaky...doesn't cut out but surges a bit. I am trying to sell it because it is a clean machine but I can't sell it if I have to 'hit it' with starter fluid each time, which seems to be the case if it sits for a day or two after the last start & run. I don't see any videos for this unique problem...most seem to be saying if you can't get it started at all. I am going to change the plugs today but they were new about a month before I let it sit at the end of 2019. Suggestions?
It sounds like there still could be some trash in the carburetor.. Did you drain out the old fuel from the gas tank before adding new? After sitting, I usually flush the tank out with water, replace the fuel filter, and clean out the carburetor... Also if you are having a surging problem there could be a clog with your Low Speed Jets... I don't remember if that particular carburetor has them. Heres a video I did a while back on this problem. I know it's for a Nikki carburetor, but the problem your having may be similar..
ua-cam.com/video/dnEgZ_uqxiQ/v-deo.html
Hope that helps..
I had this exact same problem. This video is amazing and helped me rebuild the carburetor, which I did with a kit. Cleaned it all out like brand new (although it wasn't that dirty to being with). But it didn't fix the problem. I'm pretty sure it's the fuel cutoff solenoid which is attached to the carb bowl but is not removed in this video. If you remove it, you can test it to see if it snaps in when you turn the starter key one click. Mine just barely pulls back in when charged, so I'm ordering a new one. Toro V-Twin Fuel Solenoid Kit (127-9292). It's about $35. If after testing this one, it snaps back in, then that will be the problem, I think. Basically, initial fuel getting into the chamber as it's not snapping back when turning the key. Maybe see if that solves your problem, too?
HI, yes you can also test those solenoids by pushing in the plunger with your finger.. they should come back right away instead of being sluggish about it... Sounds like a good possibility that's your problem.. 😀
Thanks so much for this video. I have an Exmark that has this exact engine and this video solved the problem.
You're welcome! So glad I could help.. 😀
I'll check if this applies to the 32" Timecutter! Great video!
If it has the same v-twin engine there shouldn't be any difference.
Hi Rudy, great video! I appreciate all the details. My 60" timecutter has been sitting idle for the winter season and didn't start for this spring season - it simply doesn't crank over! So far I've determined it's not the battery, or the solenoid, or the break control module, or the air filter (I only have ~20 hours on mine). I'll be checking the spark plugs next, but it did have a bit of left over gasoline in the tank, and I'm thinking it may be the carburetor because of all those months of sitting?
HI, not cranking over? Its probably an electrical problem.. Most likely not the spark plugs or carb if its physically not turning over... Can you hear the starter engaging? Or is it engaging but doesn't have enough torque to turn the engine?
I believe it’s the latter, where it doesn’t have enough torque to fire. I’m planning to also try using some starter fluid to give it a boost. I’ll try to keep you posted, in case this helps someone in the future. Thank you for your detailed video and your reply!
@@rinuxachva8538 No problem. If it's just turning slowly, are you sure the battery has a good charge?
Just wanted to issue a final update, in case some future reader finds this useful. So I was able to get my mower started! After checking all that I mentioned previously, I still suspected the buildup of old gasoline in the carb. I bought starting fluid and sprayed a small amount directly into the air intake. The first time, it chocked and nearly started - I tried a few more times, and then I sprayed the 2nd time. It started and died after about a second (I think due to my fault, as I forgot to release choke and didn’t throttle). I sprayed the third time, and it fired up! I then throttled her to the max and let her run for a bit. Then mowed some grass, and turned her off, and had no problems starting her back up! I hope this helps someone.
@@rinuxachva8538 I wonder what the original problem was? If there's a buildup of gas, can you let it set for a few days and then try again. The needle and seat in the carb might be leaking past. If it leaks into the cylinder it'll cause a hydro-lock in the cylinder and keep the engine from turning over. Pull the oil dipstick and make sure the oil doesn't have a gasoline odor..
Great video, fantastic lighting.
Thank you very much!
I am a former small engine guy but a few years removed from that. I now have a lawns business for the last 7 years. My dad broke the timecutter i gave him haha. It will run for 20 minutes or so then cut out. It will still turn over and start sometimes though it surges and eventually dies a few minutes later. Def not electrical or safety switch related. The surging tells me its carburetor or fuel supply related in some fashion. I cleaned the tank which had a bunch of debris in it and also the carb. The fuel solenoid cut off works. The filter has a little stuff in it but seems like its doing its job. there is fuel in the carb when it dies and surges. I thought about replacing fuel lines as maybe one is collapsing somewhere but idk. Any ideas?
forgot to mention playing with the choke will change the surge so def fuel related.
HI, just guessing that there's some trash in the system somewhere that has contaminated one of the small jets in the carb. If I saw debris in the fuel tank, it's a pretty good bet that some of that has made it's way into the carb. Usually I will flush the tank out with a water hose and let it dry. Of course with a rear tank and the way it's mounted they don't make it easy to remove it and do that... The next best thing would be to disconnect the fuel line and flush it out.. maybe use a shop vac with a hose that'll fit through the fuel cap and suck the water and whatever trash you can out of the tank. I would also replace the fuel lines and filter, then clean the carb again. There could be something small in the system that you're not able to see. If the problem persists after that, then have to re-evaluate the problem!..
@@JLPicard440 Thank you. I will be replacing the fule lines and filter and cleaning carb again. The tank on this particular toro mx4200 timecutter is a side saddle tank so 3 screws to remove the side cover and a single clip that holds the tank in. I did remove and flush with water then dry for a couple of days. When I cleaned the carb last time I didnt take the jets or emulsion tubes out so Ill do that this time around. Thanks for the info. I also noticed it was down to the low mark on oil but I dont think these engines have a low oil sensor that could be giving me issues as the oil heats up and maybe starting to trip the sensor after a while of ruinning. For what the engines cost they should have a low oil sensor!
Oh wow! I'd have to check mine to see if there's a sensor for the oil... Should be on the block somewhere. Even if it doesn't I'd still fill the oil to the mark on the dipstick (I know, I'm stating the obvious!). Yep, hopefully another carb cleaning will take care of the issues. With new fuel lines you shouldn't have any trash contaminating anything.. 😀
@@JLPicard440 Okay sooooo this is going to sound dumb but I never checked the fuel filter. I had changed it this spring and thought nothing of it. I took it off after disassembling and cleaning carb and checking everything else I could think of. I topped the oil off as well but no change. It acted like fuel starvation. Running fine for a while then dying then surging on restart at full throttle. At idle it would die. So anyhow I took the filter off and in the inlet was a folded up piece of leaf. Hooked the fuel line up direct since I dont have access to a filter until tomorrow and bam. Ran great for an hour. Theres your update and maybe this will help someone else in the future. Check the simple things first.
Hi I like this video I learned something . I have a related question is there a way to adjust the air /fuel mix on these carbs? if so will you tell me show me or point me in the right direction
Don't quote me on this, but I don't remember seeing an adjustment screw for that. I think the only way to do that would be to play with the sizes of the main jet.
I can't get the two emulsion tubes to slide out of the carburetor body, they're stuck with crud in there from months of sitting with bad corn gas in it. Any suggestions on how to get the tubes out? Another question, can i put a wrench on the solenoid and back it out the body??
HI, Yes I've seen some stubborn ones. They do usually just come right out, but if they don't i've taken a screwdriver and where you see the brass piece of the emulsion tube protruding into the carburetor venturi and just press it to get it started out. If you get it started, but then it bottoms out and you can't press it any further, I've used a small enough allen wrench to fit down through the hole and keep pushing it out. You can also try some PB blaster and soak the area where the emulsion tube lives and let it sit for a while to hopefully soften the crud.. Hope that helps.. 😀
@@JLPicard440 I got one of them out by literally rapping the carbeurator body on the bench pretty hard. The other one I had to take a drill bit that was just slightly smaller than the opening in the emulsion tube, cock it to the side at a slight angle so it bites into the tube, then back it out. That worked for me anyway. After cleaning it as thoroughly as I coul, I'm still having trouble with the gas getting through to the cylinders. I can spray starting fluid while spinning the motor over and it will run for a couple seconds, so it's gotta be not getting gas. I guess some tiny little port somewhere in this carbuerator is clogged up?? It had sat for 8 months when I got it, the gas in the tank had turned orange, so yeah, I drained it all out. THe inside of the carbuerator float bowl area was FILTHY dirty with crud. I may have to suck it up and buy a new one for $248. 😒
Oh no! One thing I like to do is use ethanol free fuel and then still add stabilizer to that too.. You also might want to check the fuel pump by pulling the discharge line off and pointing it into a glass jar. Then crank the engine over to make sure fuel is coming out like it should... A good steady stream. If the fuel pump is working, then it sounds like something is still clogged up.. Also I don't know if there's aftermarket carburetors for Toro, but sometimes those aftermarket carburetors can be $50 or less... Something to look at...
Good job & good speaker
Thank you so much!
I have this exact same motor and am just replacing my carburetor and it comes with 3 gaskets 2 with 2 holes and 1 with a big opening any idea what that is for? I figured the 2 gaskets with 2 holes is for each side of the carburetor, but unsure of the big mouth one.
HI, sometimes those carburetors will come with extra gaskets for different applications. Do you have your original gaskets? If so, I would match up the new ones with the old ones and just use those... 😊
Awesome video. Thanks so much. My Toro is surging. Do you think any of the issues you addressed might fix my problem. Thanks again.
HI, many times the surging is caused by a problem with the low side jet in the carburetor. I don't remember if I addressed that in this video. I did a video on this a while back, it was on a briggs engine, but the principal should be the same:
ua-cam.com/video/dnEgZ_uqxiQ/v-deo.html
I hope this helps!
This was a fantastic video. I have a Toro SWX-5050 that is about 5 years old (170 hours). It recently developed a problem wherein it runs rough when not under load. Under load (blades turning and moving forward) it is fine. Sitting still with the blades off it surges like it is not getting enough fuel. This behavior also happens occasionally when driving without the blades turning. I replaced the fuel filter, air filter and spark plugs. I also did the carburetor cleaning as mentioned above (used a piece of wire to clean the fuel jets instead of torch cleaners, but the carburetor looked very clean on the inside even before doing this work). I will try again with some torch cleaners that I ordered from Amazon. I noticed there are two air jets at the top of the carburetor which can be removed by taking out a Philips head screw. I did not do that. Any chance that is the problem - or do you have other ideas?
Forgot to mention - when not under load, it runs smoother with a little choke applied (ca. 1/4 choke), which is what leads me to believe there is a fuel system / carburetor issue.
HI Mark. I would definitely take out the other jets. Some carburetors have an actual plate that is held down by screws and I've seen those jets right there cause a surge. I can't remember if the Toro one is like that or not, but it's worth a try if you have something like that.
Yes I agree it's in the carburetor...
@@JLPicard440 Will try this weekend and report back. Thank you!
Great! Thank you.. 😊
The 5th carb has been delivered and they said that has been put on and they said they want to keep for 2 days to do more testing on it, I should get it by Monday will let you know.
Let's hope it turns out to be fixed this time!
Nice video. Brake cleaner can dissolve your rubber gaskets or seals or O rings. Carb cleaner will not. Carb cleaner is bad on nitrile gloves. Brake cleaner is bad on your skin and so is carb cleaner. You should use carb cleaner and wear neoprene gloves.
I usually don't use the brake cleaner any seals or gaskets. Usually just on bare metal. IF there's an occasional o-ring or something in there, I've not had any troubles in the past. I use the brake clean because it's a little cheaper than carb cleaner. You're right, the carb cleaner would be better, but I'm cheap! Thanks for the info.
The 5th carb is working OK so far , time will tell.
Excellent! 😀
We have exact mower just bought it a year ago used it started stalling after about 10 or so cuts 1 plus acre cuts, cleaned carb, new plugs and it ran good but now it stalls again after about 10 mins I'm stumped... any help is appreciated
Interesting problem... Does it start back up again? I wonder if the fuel pump might be pumping until it gets hot, then quits..
Just replaced it just in case but still it won't turn consistently thinking about getting a new carb. @@JLPicard440
Could be that. I've never actually seen one run for a few minutes and quit. But of course that doesn't mean that's not what's wrong. 😊
They just told me that the carburetor was bad
then the next time there was bad gas, I told them it was the same gas I run all my Equpment on. Then it was back to bad carburetor.
The number 5 has been delved. I will keep you informed .
Wow... That's a bit strange how this could happen so many times. Yes, I'm curious what they come up with next time..
Thank you great video!
You are welcome!
Thanks for the wonderful video! I got a same zero turn with you but the problem is that it kicks the starter motor(it spins very well) but it won’t start the actual engine. Is there anything I can try?
Oh wow... there are several things it could be... Check the spark (you can spray a small amount of starting fluid in the carburetor if you don't have a spark checker). Check to make sure the fuel pump is working (unhook the fuel line from the carburetor and put the end of the fuel line in a jar, then crank the engine and make sure a good amount of fuel comes out..), carburetor could be clogged up, fuel might have water in it, if it's none of those things, check the compression. Theres other possiblities. If there's no compression, there is bigger problem going on with the engine..
@@JLPicard440 thanks for the reply! Do you know the wrench size for spark plug?
@@harryim3218 A wrench won't work very well. Usually I use a deep well socket. It varies on mowers.. some are 5/8, 3/4 and 13/16 are the main ones I think. I don't remember which one this one was..
What should I do if gas is leaking into the oil tank as described at 7:48? Simply replace the needle and seat?
HI,... Yes that's usually what's wrong. The needle is leaking past and it's getting in through the intake valve..
Works perfectly with the replacement needle, thanks for the advice!
Wife got Zero Turn stuck in mud. After I dragged it out I tried re engaging the blades and it stopped ad killed the engine. Spindle went bad? Any suggestions to start with? I'd rather try myself before taking it to somebody.
Arrrgh... I've done that before myself! 1st thing is a visual inspection. Look under the deck to see if the blades look ok... Look at the belts and pulleys and see if anything looks wrong. If everything looks ok visually, try to remove the belt from the engine pulley. Then once the belt is removed start the engine and activate the PTO to see if the engine dies. IF it does, then you've got an electrical safety switch problem. Also with the belt removed you should be able to manually spin things to see if there's any problems anywhere. Hope that helps..
Fuel shut off switch was my issue , 6hrs on the engine and sit in garage for 1 year, purchaser of unit put gas in and tried to start drawing the E85 fuel that must have had water in it. After fuel system drain, tank removed and all . assembled still would not start. switch was not checked , sure enough that was my issue.
Excellent! Glad you were able to figure it out. Seems like I read in the book that E85 could cause damage to the engine? I could be remembering wrong..
Perfect 👍 ty
You're welcome!
i have the same mower, any idea why it would keep fuel flooding?
Is the needle and seat leaking into the carb? Check the oil and see if it smells like gas..
Is there a way to adjust the spray by turning a screw?
I don't remember if this one has any adjustments. Fastest way to tell is to look for an adjustment screw.
Hi, have this carburetor on my Toro V-twin and the dealer has put on 4 carb and waiting for my 5 th carb (on back order) why is this?
I've never heard of that. What's the reason they've gone through 4 of them? I mean what did they tell u?
I have stripped the carby on my Toro but it is not getting fuel. I will take the fuel solenoid off and check it out. Is this solenoid necessary or can l by-pass it? It seems to be there only to stop the fuel from flooding the carby when the engine us stopped. What's the go on this solenoid? Can l get rid of it?
I don't recommend trying to bypass that. I believe it suppresses backfiring. Without it, I don't know what would happen. To much backfire and the head gasket will probably blow. Is it getting power? Have you taken it off yet to see if the plunger is moving freely?
@@JLPicard440
Thanks for the reply, l will take the solenoid out in the morning and test it and see if it is opening when the key is switched on. It has been backfiring a lot when trying to start, especially when it's hot. Will test it in the morning.
@@jbonnell1117 Weird thing about the Toro engine.. They recommend starting and stopping the engine with more than 3/4 throttle to prevent backfiring.. I don't like that personally, especially after it's been sitting. I like to start the engine on an idle to give the oil a chance to circulate. Briggs has no problem with this, but this is the recommended way by Toro. Have you been doing that?
@@JLPicard440 I will remove the solenoid when l get home. I have tried stopping the engine at 1/2 or 3/4 throttle but it makes no difference. I am putting a tap in the fuel line next to the carby. This will be turned off when stopping and turned on to start and run. If all fails, l can simply turn off the fuel and let it run out till it stops.
@@jbonnell1117 Good idea, that should work.
I ended up breaking the gasket. Is their a place i can buy just the shroud gasket? Gasket at 4:40
Have you tried getting the engine model number and you can look up parts on toro.com/en/parts. I think there's a parts breakdown there so you can identify that gasket.. (not sure if the parts breakdown will show that gasket by itself)
Did you find the gasket? I broke mine too; it was very stuck. Where did you find it?
You should be able to take your engine model number and look it up online... or if you have a local Toro dealer they'll be able to look it up for you and probably get it too...
My have the other size full of gas how i can fixed that.
Can you re-phrase the question?
@@JLPicard440 i have a Toro zero turn mower that I cleaned the carburetor because it didn’t idle and after cleaned the carburetor, change fuel filter, clean pump, clean tank & check the solenoid still up and down revolutions and don’t idle. What you think can happen?
Thats a surge. Usually caused by a carburetor issue on the low speed jet. I don't remember if this Toro has that or not, but here's a video I did on a Briggs engine a while back that shows what I did to fix it. It might give you something to look for on the Toro..
ua-cam.com/video/dnEgZ_uqxiQ/v-deo.html
Is so shame rhis people from el toro make it so difficult to have accessible to the carburator on the Z5030 timecutter machine.
Yes sometimes the engineer doesn't consider the person who has to work on the machine! Thanks for your feedback.. 😀
Part number for actual carb anybody?
Should be pretty easy to google that with your engine model number.
You could use a Holley 600...😂😂😂
Lol.... double pumper... 😀