Had F1 in VG10 for some time, sold it years back. Now I was in the market for a new, bigger Fällkniven model (despite having lots of similar size custom knives). Watched sh** loads of videos on YT. And you did it - you sold me to this knife. Just ordered S1X. Thanks 😊.
I just bought this knife, and seeing it actually get put to use in your evaluation really helped me make the choice. I felt this was an honest review with no BS, and I found it easy to trust your opinion. Shops, sellers and makers take note!
Hi Rob thanks for your advice and use of this knife. I got the F1x in the black coating. I love it, but I do use gloves with that one. I also have an F1 Pro and an S1 which I don’t need gloves with, I am a female and just find the F1x is a bit harder on my hands, more vibration.
I like this review because, having done this a lot, sh*t doesn’t always work out what with crappy logs and slightly damp wood. It’s not easy and I appreciate you just showing the knife and not making it all perfect. Nice test and I’ve moved this knife to my short list 👍
Hi Rob. Thanks for the great review on this knife. Your use and comments sold me. I got the uncoated one S1x, and an extra sheath. I figure the lack of coating will make it easier in the long run , as I strop the convex. Won't have to fight the super-hard coating as I eventually work up the convex. Knife is basically stainless anyways. Thanks Rob. Great knife.
Rob/ this is Tony in Chicago/ I have the A1X which is my favorite in my small collection. I just ordered the S1X in black after watching your video! Fantastic video buddy.
I’ve had mine for 8 months now. The coating does hold up better than any I’ve experienced though it is now gone from the blades edge not from use but from sharpening. To maintain the convex and using a stone, it was necessary to move up the edge to keep the arc. Almost now resembles a hamon - couldn’t on whetstone.
Hi Rob, I'm looking to add an X series Fallkniven to my collection and was looking for some advice. I mostly stay around a 4" blade for my bushcraft knife, as I use it with an axe and folding saw. However, I've been finding less reason to carry the axe and was looking to go with a bigger blade and saw combo and leave the axe behind. I'm going back and forth between the S1XB and the A1XB, and I was wondering which you prefer as a "do it all knife" out of those two. I'm leaning towards the A1XB, but I've never used a 6" plus blade for the smaller tasks around camp and worry it might be to cumbersome?
Just ordered one after much deliberation on whether the A1X or this, the non coated version, I think it will be strong enough seeing the absolute battering you gave it Rob!
I find the S1x to be too small for heavy work and too big for more controlled things so I'd go with the F1X, there's no real benefits to buying the S, I actually put new thicker scales on mine which totally transformed the knife.
Thanks very much for the review. I have the same complaint you do about Fallkniven; the small handles. Good to know they did better (but not good enough) with this one.
Looks very interesting. I have been looking at this, or the F1X...I feel this is my choice. I'll see what the time table is like. Give it mouth or two.
@@RobEvansWoodsman Yes, you are possible right. I have seen several reviews on both. I like the compact design of F1x, what it's aimed for pilot survival knife. I'll stick with Silky saw and axe...Order F1x. What's your thoughts on Elmax? Cheers Stewart
@@RSLtreecare I recently bought the F1X elmax and sold the black Cos F1X, I really liked the way my R2 in elmax performed, I really don't understand why I just liked the edge on the sabrevex in elmax.
I can say the Fallkniven vg10 works better than the spyderco vg10. Probably due to the lamination. I tend to rely on carbon steel for most things these days.. Another great video. :)
@RobEvansWoodsman spat my brew out twice. Was good. Future reference though. Handy hint. When the knife sticks, turn everything upside down, so the knife blade is now pointing upwards, then rest the tip of the knife on something holding the knife handle in your left hand and the hit the log downward onto the blade instead of hitting the knife. All good bud
I have an A1Pro and an S1Xb, and I prefer the latter. Perfect size, perfect feel. I have MANY expensive knives, and to be in the woods I most like to have the S1xb. Good review -- I think you were throwing plenty of sparks but your feathers must have had a touch of dampness.
Today I got mine S1xb! This is hell of a knife! My only concern now is will I be able to sharp it properly! Hopefully with Ken Onion worksharp system + CC4 and DC4 stones I'll deal with that issue!
Pretty blade...good review mate. Coupled with a Silky saw and a leatherman, that'd be an end of the world set up right there. Do like that Garberg though, the price on it is great as well...something that can't ever be said for the Fallknivens (I got an F1 and an A1 and they are both the absolute mustard, I'd never pay full price for them though, they're just too dear and they're getting dearer all the time).
They are good but as you said, far too expensive. I prefer the A1 size an bigger but it performed well and really tough. Thanks for the comments and support 👍.
Rob/ Tony in Chicago here. Listen/ on the Fallkniven S1X, you do not need to press the release button or whatever it's called to release the knife from the sheath. Just pull the knife while in the sheath towards the lock and pull it out. It will come right out.
It's got a new handle and a kydex sheath now so that plastic sheath is surplus to requirements! I do have the A1X which still has the original handle and sheath.
@@RobEvansWoodsman Ok. I'm going to be ordering the A1X from Chicago Knife Works/ their pricing its incredible when it comes to fallkniven knives/ example, the F1X is only 152.00 dollars. Goes true thru all Fallkniven knives, just awesome low pricing.
I like the knife better with a new, more substantial handle. The steel is great but I'm not a fan of the thin rubber slabs It's a good knife and I think it's a lot of money compared to the A1X. I find people always fixate on the cost and compare fallknivens to cheaper alternatives, let's say Jakarri pukko. If like me you love fallkniven then go for it, if you couldn't afford it you wouldn't buy it! All the best, Rob
Saw a UA-cam video that showed the proper way to test a Bushcraft knife was to split a Teflon frying pan, baton through a brick, drive blade into a tree and stand on the handle. Because those are all important Bushcraft needs. Cheers
Rob/ I received the S1X in black today and my goodness, it's a work of art! I will put it thru its paces in my 3/4 acre wooded lot 50 miles from Chicago next week buddy. Stay safe.
Any issues with full convex sharpening and that coating? Debating on the A1xb. I don't need the coating, but wow does it look cool. I figured you'd have to get through the coating from where the flats end on down to the edge if you want to be able to strop and sharpen it to maintain the convex. One thing I love about my Fallkniven is the awesome convex grind, I have no desire to put a micro bevel on one.
Surely the problem with this knife is when you sharpen it. Over time you will need to abrade the coating to avoid creating a super heavy edge angle. Then you are going to end up with a knife that has 2/3rds of the blade coated and the cutting edge 1/3 cleaned off. It’s gonna look odd. Or, am I missing something here?
You are spot on, I should never have purchased the coated blade, I had to run a diamond rod over the edge to remove the coating before the knife would properly cut anything, chopping and splitting were fine but it couldn't shave wood . The other two X series knives I now have do not have a coating, I did purchase an F1x with coating second hand but that got replaced by the ELMAX version.
Sharpening a convex like it was flat, won't create a secondary bevel, which would destroy the zero edge of the knife? Isn't it a better idea, to stone sharpen it and then maintain it with a strop in the field?
I only took the coating off with the diamond rod, this steel is so good it'll take ages to get it to a point where it needs a visit to the stones. Stroping should be adequate for quite a while (for me anyway as someone who uses a different knife every week!) Unless it gets abuse , hits stone etc. Thanks for the Input.
Yes I had to diamond off the coating initially. There is someone out there who very astutely stated that the coating inhabited the shaving sharpness out of the box and that obviously sharpening will eventually remove the coat; the coating is some unfathomable Rockwell hardness; I think it was our Australian friend who pointed out that it doesn’t really matter how hard the coding is as much as how its affixed to the blade. People want Excalibur but nobody ever asks in those fairytales how do you sharpen Excalibur? And if they interrupt the story and do ask, the answer always is Excalibur never needs to be sharpened. And then enter the merchants with the magic blade. None of this is to besmirch Falkniven, I own 7 of their knives and have given 2 more of their knives as gifts. I think Falkniven playing with the coating was more an experiment in who can make a “best coating” which I think they did compared all the other coatings out there and where better to test it but on a survival knife? The reality is all things need to be sharpened all survival knives will eventually lose your coatings, the irony in this case being that the convex edge does best on the whetstone attesting to its Japanese influence and their love of whetstones, thus the need to ride a bit up the blade to maintain the arc. BUT: in this “experiment” Falkniven did discover the best coating that I could see as extremely effective in high end kitchen knives as these are generally not banged on and abused as are often knives out in the world; kitchen knives safe our meal but not our lives. Oh and then of course those who carry a survival knife to self define that they are bad asses, but never venture far from the dinner table where the chefs knife makes more sense.
i scarped the s1x spine w the fero rod and the places where i scraped it didnt have the shine, where i havent scraped it was still shiny, i dont really care about the shine but rather does the fero rod scratch the metal? or does it color it, dont know kind of confused weather this is normal or no. thanks, and im sorry im asking alot of dumb questions but i know u wont bullshit me.
Wow! This is a test! Bravo ! I came to the same conclusion as you: It's better the slightly larger A1x with a half-centimetre better handle. My hand fits in it without any discomfort, but I still plan to put a piece of inner tube in it like on the BK. Now it is more a survival knife than a bushcraft knife, and who can do more can do less. So what is the value of your life? You can't go wrong if there's only one tool left to start from scratch. I subscribe to your channel, even if I don't understand your English, which is not my mother tongue either. 😉👍
Subscribed hehe. Fallknivens will be out of my reach for a while (considering just about everything) Well maybe a standard F1 that's somehow a little discounted. It's not that I can't afford them, it's more that I can't justify them for myself atm, because I'd baby it too much, it's too pretty and expensive imo. which beats the point of getting one soon. And my bushcraft black and own handled knives work fine too hehe. (Tho I really should have a real large survival knife one day, I think I'll just make it myself, I have access to a forge/workshop 🤷)
RobEvans Woodsman. Then sell it. There must be something that fits, comfortably. I was close to buying the x until you mentioned the handle issues. Hope Fällkniven see your review. It’s a design fault for sure.
RobEvans Woodsman. If I had the cash I’ld go for the bark river aurora 2. Better steel, fractionally longer and apparently super comfortable. Also looks so discreet... one day maybe
If I was to buy another one I'd get the uncoated, I bought the A1X with no coating, it's only going to come off when it needs sharpening and look a mess! Although they don't need sharpening often and the edge retention is very good.
6" bench stones, they come in plastic or wood boxes, blue, red and green, coarse fine and extra fine, there is an extra extra fine which is brown but I don't have one, yet!
Convex are a pain to sharpen, probably not the best idea to use DMT on a convex, abrasive paper on a mouse pad, use like strops would be the best thing for you not to mess up the convex.
You gave that a bit of a beating. Looks a decent enough knife even if a bit pricey. Wish I'd bought a falkniven 10 years ago when they were a good comparable price. Glad I didn't though cause I got a Rob Evans Bush tool instead.
@@RobEvansWoodsman many thanks for the reply. Much appreciated. Was the guard on the s1 pro smoother? You mentioned in your video that the one on the s1x was a bit sharp. I wondered if the pro was more comfortable because of this?
@@darrengough4400 I bought a s1pro when they came out a few years ago, I didn't keep it long because of the small handle, I see what you mean about the sharp guard on the X, that wouldn't be an issue with the Pro. It's odd because I'm ok with the slab handle on the A1x and F1x.
@@RobEvansWoodsman that is interesting. I certainly think the handle on the A1 is longer. Not sure about the thickness. Thanks again for the help. I have some thinking to do! S1 pro with smoother finger guard or save £50 and get the s1x. Could use the £50 saved on getting some different scales 👍
Yes , Heinnie usually Paul. I have bought a few from Knives and tools and my SRK came from the Bushcraft store when I went there. Years ago I bought a lot from Framar in Blackburn, before Heinnie opened.
The only thing I don't like about the Bob is the stupid Shango notch and the rounded spine, I could live with the notch but it really needs a sharp spine, it's a personal preference. I personally love the cold steel SRK and it's now available in 3v. I have a video on it. The terrava jakkari Pukko is also excellent and cheap!
Now that was a proper field test. Well done, sir. Did you inspect the edge after you've finished? Any chips, rolls? Thank you for this demonstration. Cheers :)
Coating was just a waste of money, with thicker more comfortable scales this blade is transformed, it was ok as standard it really isn't good for prolonged use with those skinny scales. Luckily for me rehandling a knife is easy, but not for everyone.
Hardly made a mark, however if I was to buy this knife again I wouldn't bother with the coating, I have the A1x and I didn't bother with the coating, I picked up a second hand F1x with coating, that had been well used and the coating was rubbing off in places where it touched the plastic sheath , after sharpening it looks a mess so don't bother with the coating unless you are going covert into a hostile environment! Also you might have noticed me running a diamond hone over the edge to take the coating off the edge because it really wasn't sharp enough to shave sticks properly. I have since taken the skinny scales off and put some beefy micarta ones on, it has completely changed the knife, I haven't done it to my other two Xseries knives because I like them like that..... For now!
@@RobEvansWoodsman Thanks for the info. Looks like I'm leaning toward buying the satin finish of the S1X or the A1X. Keep the videos coming, great work!
Loved your video. Looking forward to purchasing this knife. I see you sharpened it using only a diamond rod and a strop. Can I use a stone (like the DC4) instead of the rod? There are a lot of people that scream in agony when they see others touch a convex edge with a hard surface (stone or rod, it doesn't matter). Most of them seem to advise only using a soft surface (like having sandpaper on top of a hard backed strop) which makes sense given the nature of the convex edge. But I also know that all these Fallknivens have a secondary micro bevel so touching it with a hard surface doesn't seem that off if you think about it. I'm just beginning my bushcraft journey and don't seem to find a good generally accepted advice on how to sharpen a convex edge. It seems that you have a lot of experience in the field so I was wondering what would your advice be in this case. Thank you very much and keep the great content coming. Cheers.
No , it's far too expensive for that. This is a good mid size knife but the handle is a little small. I wanted to see what it'll take, it takes abuse well. I couldn't find anyone else on UA-cam doing this kind of review on the knife, plenty taking it out of a box and cutting rope and paper. Wanting to test mid size survival/utility knives came from a recent experience a friend of mine took part in. Basically 4 days in winter with one knife and a ferrorod as the only tools, they were given carbon Scandi grind knives from casstrom, I'll cut a long story short, I asked him if he could have taken a knife of his choice what would it be. Answer, a mid size knife that's tough as hell , something like a Teravaa Pukko or a similar knife in better steel. That's why I've been interested in hard testing mid size knives. By the way that comment came across very sarcastic but I know where you are coming from, I usually prefer a 4" scandi, saw and axe. Variety is the spice of life !
Must say that knife spectacularly failed to impress me. I Certainly would not have put any of my money into it. 👎🏻 £84 pounds MORE than my Bush Tool. (ps a rivet has fallen out of my dingaling Dangler)
Had F1 in VG10 for some time, sold it years back. Now I was in the market for a new, bigger Fällkniven model (despite having lots of similar size custom knives). Watched sh** loads of videos on YT. And you did it - you sold me to this knife. Just ordered S1X. Thanks 😊.
I just bought this knife, and seeing it actually get put to use in your evaluation really helped me make the choice. I felt this was an honest review with no BS, and I found it easy to trust your opinion. Shops, sellers and makers take note!
Hi Rob thanks for your advice and use of this knife. I got the F1x in the black coating. I love it, but I do use gloves with that one. I also have an F1 Pro and an S1 which I don’t need gloves with, I am a female and just find the F1x is a bit harder on my hands, more vibration.
Yes it is rougher than the regular moulded handles, I'm glad I can help.
I like this review because, having done this a lot, sh*t doesn’t always work out what with crappy logs and slightly damp wood. It’s not easy and I appreciate you just showing the knife and not making it all perfect. Nice test and I’ve moved this knife to my short list 👍
Hi Rob. Thanks for the great review on this knife. Your use and comments sold me. I got the uncoated one S1x, and an extra sheath.
I figure the lack of coating will make it easier in the long run , as I strop the convex. Won't have to fight the super-hard coating as I eventually work up the convex. Knife is basically stainless anyways. Thanks Rob. Great knife.
No worries, glad you found the review helpful.
@@RobEvansWoodsman I certainly did. I should have it in a couple days. Looking forward to it!
I was looking for a review of the s1x for a looong time ! thx a lot
No good field review on it , I looked before I bought.
I hope mine filled a void!
I had fun! Thanks for making me smile!
Thank you very much for your efforts. Real videos take time and this is one of them. All the best wishes for your channel. 👍🙋♂️
Thank you!
LOL! “…an endless supply of shiny sharp things.” Classic wisdom.
Hi, I have one, its my favourite Knife, Love it. Great vid thanks.
Thanks for watching 👍
Hi Rob! I will buy this Fallkniven soon, but I will sort out the uncomfortable edges with my dremel, the only sharp thing should be the blade only. 😁
Very impressed with that performance! Thanks for the video.
Rob/ this is Tony in Chicago/ I have the A1X which is my favorite in my small collection. I just ordered the S1X in black after watching your video!
Fantastic video buddy.
I hope you like it, I've got an A1x now and the handle is far better and bigger on the A1X.
I’ve had mine for 8 months now. The coating does hold up better than any I’ve experienced though it is now gone from the blades edge not from use but from sharpening. To maintain the convex and using a stone, it was necessary to move up the edge to keep the arc. Almost now resembles a hamon - couldn’t on whetstone.
Hi Rob, I'm looking to add an X series Fallkniven to my collection and was looking for some advice.
I mostly stay around a 4" blade for my bushcraft knife, as I use it with an axe and folding saw. However, I've been finding less reason to carry the axe and was looking to go with a bigger blade and saw combo and leave the axe behind.
I'm going back and forth between the S1XB and the A1XB, and I was wondering which you prefer as a "do it all knife" out of those two. I'm leaning towards the A1XB, but I've never used a 6" plus blade for the smaller tasks around camp and worry it might be to cumbersome?
Just ordered one after much deliberation on whether the A1X or this, the non coated version, I think it will be strong enough seeing the absolute battering you gave it Rob!
Flx or the s1x which one should i buy?
I find the S1x to be too small for heavy work and too big for more controlled things so I'd go with the F1X, there's no real benefits to buying the S, I actually put new thicker scales on mine which totally transformed the knife.
Thanks very much for the review. I have the same complaint you do about Fallkniven; the small handles. Good to know they did better (but not good enough) with this one.
There's a new micarta handle going on the S1XB very soon, it'll need a new sheath aswel.
@@RobEvansWoodsman who is the new handle maker?
Me
@@RobEvansWoodsman cool stuff
Looks very interesting. I have been looking at this, or the F1X...I feel this is my choice. I'll see what the time table is like. Give it mouth or two.
I'd personally go with the F1X, the S1x really needs a bigger handle whilst the F just gets away with it.
@@RobEvansWoodsman Yes, you are possible right. I have seen several reviews on both. I like the compact design of F1x, what it's aimed for pilot survival knife. I'll stick with Silky saw and axe...Order F1x. What's your thoughts on Elmax? Cheers Stewart
@@RSLtreecare I recently bought the F1X elmax and sold the black Cos F1X, I really liked the way my R2 in elmax performed, I really don't understand why I just liked the edge on the sabrevex in elmax.
I can say the Fallkniven vg10 works better than the spyderco vg10. Probably due to the lamination. I tend to rely on carbon steel for most things these days.. Another great video. :)
Exactly what i needed to know! The S1X or the A1 PRO? Thumbs up!
Good review. Thanks for the content!! Subbed
Too funny. Love it
Not sure how to take that.
@RobEvansWoodsman spat my brew out twice. Was good. Future reference though. Handy hint. When the knife sticks, turn everything upside down, so the knife blade is now pointing upwards, then rest the tip of the knife on something holding the knife handle in your left hand and the hit the log downward onto the blade instead of hitting the knife. All good bud
You are correct, that coating is tough!
YOU GOT YOUR HANDS ON ONE! BRAVO!
I have an A1Pro and an S1Xb, and I prefer the latter. Perfect size, perfect feel. I have MANY expensive knives, and to be in the woods I most like to have the S1xb. Good review -- I think you were throwing plenty of sparks but your feathers must have had a touch of dampness.
Hey, great vid. Thumbs way up, I’ll sub for more.
Like the review and subbed. Waiting on my F1Xb to come in.
Excellent, glad to be of help.
Today I got mine S1xb! This is hell of a knife! My only concern now is will I be able to sharp it properly! Hopefully with Ken Onion worksharp system + CC4 and DC4 stones I'll deal with that issue!
Pretty blade...good review mate. Coupled with a Silky saw and a leatherman, that'd be an end of the world set up right there. Do like that Garberg though, the price on it is great as well...something that can't ever be said for the Fallknivens (I got an F1 and an A1 and they are both the absolute mustard, I'd never pay full price for them though, they're just too dear and they're getting dearer all the time).
They are good but as you said, far too expensive. I prefer the A1 size an bigger but it performed well and really tough.
Thanks for the comments and support 👍.
Garberg is a good knife but I still prefer the Bushcraft black.
THAT is tough testing :)
Rob/ Tony in Chicago here.
Listen/ on the Fallkniven S1X, you do not need to press the release button or whatever it's called to release the knife from the sheath.
Just pull the knife while in the sheath towards the lock and pull it out.
It will come right out.
I know that buddy.
@@RobEvansWoodsman oh ok.
Thanks Rob.
It's got a new handle and a kydex sheath now so that plastic sheath is surplus to requirements!
I do have the A1X which still has the original handle and sheath.
@@RobEvansWoodsman
Ok.
I'm going to be ordering the A1X from Chicago Knife Works/ their pricing its incredible when it comes to fallkniven knives/ example, the F1X is only 152.00 dollars.
Goes true thru all Fallkniven knives, just awesome low pricing.
That's a hell of a price?
If it wasn't for the duty and administration charges here in the UK I'd buy a F1X with them, just got the blade.
awesome .,cant beat giving a knife a good beating impressive as always ,certainly done ok
Cheers Simon.
It's not worth the money but it's a tough little bugger.
@@RobEvansWoodsman
Wait Rob.
You don't think the S1X is not worth the money??
I like the knife better with a new, more substantial handle. The steel is great but I'm not a fan of the thin rubber slabs It's a good knife and I think it's a lot of money compared to the A1X.
I find people always fixate on the cost and compare fallknivens to cheaper alternatives, let's say Jakarri pukko. If like me you love fallkniven then go for it, if you couldn't afford it you wouldn't buy it!
All the best, Rob
Saw a UA-cam video that showed the proper way to test a Bushcraft knife was to split a Teflon frying pan, baton through a brick, drive blade into a tree and stand on the handle. Because those are all important Bushcraft needs. Cheers
DBK?
They batton through perfect knot free short rounds of pine, no challenge for any knife.
This knife would have done all of them silly things with ease, it's a little beast.
Rob/ I received the S1X in black today and my goodness, it's a work of art!
I will put it thru its paces in my 3/4 acre wooded lot 50 miles from Chicago next week buddy.
Stay safe.
Great news!
Does the Fallkniven X series come with the big plastic box or just in a paper box? My A1X came in a paper box.
Any issues with full convex sharpening and that coating? Debating on the A1xb. I don't need the coating, but wow does it look cool. I figured you'd have to get through the coating from where the flats end on down to the edge if you want to be able to strop and sharpen it to maintain the convex. One thing I love about my Fallkniven is the awesome convex grind, I have no desire to put a micro bevel on one.
Good test. Good video. Thanks!
interisting !
Surely the problem with this knife is when you sharpen it. Over time you will need to abrade the coating to avoid creating a super heavy edge angle. Then you are going to end up with a knife that has 2/3rds of the blade coated and the cutting edge 1/3 cleaned off. It’s gonna look odd. Or, am I missing something here?
You are spot on, I should never have purchased the coated blade, I had to run a diamond rod over the edge to remove the coating before the knife would properly cut anything, chopping and splitting were fine but it couldn't shave wood . The other two X series knives I now have do not have a coating, I did purchase an F1x with coating second hand but that got replaced by the ELMAX version.
Now that was a great test.
Bet you were beat after that one.
Sharpening a convex like it was flat, won't create a secondary bevel, which would destroy the zero edge of the knife? Isn't it a better idea, to stone sharpen it and then maintain it with a strop in the field?
I only took the coating off with the diamond rod, this steel is so good it'll take ages to get it to a point where it needs a visit to the stones.
Stroping should be adequate for quite a while (for me anyway as someone who uses a different knife every week!)
Unless it gets abuse , hits stone etc.
Thanks for the Input.
Yes I had to diamond off the coating initially. There is someone out there who very astutely stated that the coating inhabited the shaving sharpness out of the box and that obviously sharpening will eventually remove the coat; the coating is some unfathomable Rockwell hardness; I think it was our Australian friend who pointed out that it doesn’t really matter how hard the coding is as much as how its affixed to the blade. People want Excalibur but nobody ever asks in those fairytales how do you sharpen Excalibur? And if they interrupt the story and do ask, the answer always is Excalibur never needs to be sharpened. And then enter the merchants with the magic blade. None of this is to besmirch Falkniven, I own 7 of their knives and have given 2 more of their knives as gifts. I think Falkniven playing with the coating was more an experiment in who can make a “best coating” which I think they did compared all the other coatings out there and where better to test it but on a survival knife? The reality is all things need to be sharpened all survival knives will eventually lose your coatings, the irony in this case being that the convex edge does best on the whetstone attesting to its Japanese influence and their love of whetstones, thus the need to ride a bit up the blade to maintain the arc. BUT: in this “experiment” Falkniven did discover the best coating that I could see as extremely effective in high end kitchen knives as these are generally not banged on and abused as are often knives out in the world; kitchen knives safe our meal but not our lives. Oh and then of course those who carry a survival knife to self define that they are bad asses, but never venture far from the dinner table where the chefs knife makes more sense.
i scarped the s1x spine w the fero rod and the places where i scraped it didnt have the shine, where i havent scraped it was still shiny, i dont really care about the shine but rather does the fero rod scratch the metal? or does it color it, dont know kind of confused weather this is normal or no. thanks, and im sorry im asking alot of dumb questions but i know u wont bullshit me.
Thanks Man! What is your long time experience?
I changed the handle, it was awful, I couldn't use it for any length of time.
Edge retention and strength is excellent.
Wow! This is a test! Bravo ! I came to the same conclusion as you: It's better the slightly larger A1x with a half-centimetre better handle. My hand fits in it without any discomfort, but I still plan to put a piece of inner tube in it like on the BK.
Now it is more a survival knife than a bushcraft knife, and who can do more can do less. So what is the value of your life? You can't go wrong if there's only one tool left to start from scratch.
I subscribe to your channel, even if I don't understand your English, which is not my mother tongue either. 😉👍
Great video 👍
Thank you 👍👍👍
Hi, thanks for the video and experience, but are you sure you like the forest?
Subscribed hehe.
Fallknivens will be out of my reach for a while (considering just about everything)
Well maybe a standard F1 that's somehow a little discounted.
It's not that I can't afford them, it's more that I can't justify them for myself atm, because I'd baby it too much, it's too pretty and expensive imo.
which beats the point of getting one soon.
And my bushcraft black and own handled knives work fine too hehe.
(Tho I really should have a real large survival knife one day, I think I'll just make it myself, I have access to a forge/workshop 🤷)
Real review. Good job.
Cheers Paddy, I try my best to test without being nuts and to do real scenarios.
Can't decide whether to re-handle it or sell it. It's a good knife but the handle is too small for me.
RobEvans Woodsman. Then sell it. There must be something that fits, comfortably. I was close to buying the x until you mentioned the handle issues. Hope Fällkniven see your review. It’s a design fault for sure.
I've been told that fallkniven don't giv e a shit about what people think. Most of their handles are too small.
RobEvans Woodsman. If I had the cash I’ld go for the bark river aurora 2. Better steel, fractionally longer and apparently super comfortable. Also looks so discreet... one day maybe
Hey man, you remember how the edge and the coating both held up after extreme batoning?
Both excellent, the coating is probably the best I've ever seen, but when I bought the A1X I didn't bother with the coating.
Great Video! What kind of vest are you wearing?
got a question is there a big diffrence between coated and not coated?
If I was to buy another one I'd get the uncoated, I bought the A1X with no coating, it's only going to come off when it needs sharpening and look a mess!
Although they don't need sharpening often and the edge retention is very good.
@@RobEvansWoodsman thank you :)
me again. What are some sharpening systems u can recomend for this knife? iv got in mind worksharp field sharpener is it good enough? thanks.
I do all my sharpening free hand , DMT, water stones and micromesh strops.
@@RobEvansWoodsman what set of dmt would u recomend?
6" bench stones, they come in plastic or wood boxes, blue, red and green, coarse fine and extra fine, there is an extra extra fine which is brown but I don't have one, yet!
@@RobEvansWoodsman do u have any tips on how to not mess up the convex edge? I think ill buy those dmt ones,is a strop super necesary?
Convex are a pain to sharpen, probably not the best idea to use DMT on a convex, abrasive paper on a mouse pad, use like strops would be the best thing for you not to mess up the convex.
You gave that a bit of a beating. Looks a decent enough knife even if a bit pricey. Wish I'd bought a falkniven 10 years ago when they were a good comparable price. Glad I didn't though cause I got a Rob Evans Bush tool instead.
They are expensive for a factor made knife, I can't argue mate.
That will probably be the last fallky for a while.
The first A2 I bought cost £125.
Do you prefer the xb version or the uncoated one (x version)?
Great video 👍 have you by any chance handled the s1 pro? Would be interested to know which of the s1 pro and s1x has the comfier handle?
I found that both knives have handles that are too small for me, I have rehandled the S1x and it's now my favourite midsize survival utility knife.
@@RobEvansWoodsman many thanks for the reply. Much appreciated. Was the guard on the s1 pro smoother? You mentioned in your video that the one on the s1x was a bit sharp. I wondered if the pro was more comfortable because of this?
@@darrengough4400 I bought a s1pro when they came out a few years ago, I didn't keep it long because of the small handle, I see what you mean about the sharp guard on the X, that wouldn't be an issue with the Pro.
It's odd because I'm ok with the slab handle on the A1x and F1x.
@@RobEvansWoodsman that is interesting. I certainly think the handle on the A1 is longer. Not sure about the thickness. Thanks again for the help. I have some thinking to do! S1 pro with smoother finger guard or save £50 and get the s1x. Could use the £50 saved on getting some different scales 👍
Can you tell us where you normally buy your production knives from Rob? Is it Heinnie Haynes by any chance.
Yes , Heinnie usually Paul.
I have bought a few from Knives and tools and my SRK came from the Bushcraft store when I went there.
Years ago I bought a lot from Framar in Blackburn, before Heinnie opened.
Hi Rob. If you have to choose , A1 pro or S1x??
A1pro.
@@RobEvansWoodsman
Good. Thx. I have sold my s1x
So at this point, do you prefer the s1x to the tops B.O.B. 154cm?
Now that's a good question.
I think that with a sharp spine the BOB would be my choice.
@@RobEvansWoodsman thanks I've been thinking about getting the 154cm bob for a while. Any other knives you'd recommend over that?
The only thing I don't like about the Bob is the stupid Shango notch and the rounded spine, I could live with the notch but it really needs a sharp spine, it's a personal preference.
I personally love the cold steel SRK and it's now available in 3v.
I have a video on it. The terrava jakkari Pukko is also excellent and cheap!
I am sorry, what Diamond rod do you use?
Now that was a proper field test. Well done, sir. Did you inspect the edge after you've finished? Any chips, rolls? Thank you for this demonstration. Cheers :)
Gleaming vid mate. We can do a swap when I get my Crusader back. You can borrow my A1X to review, but I'll need it back lol...
Now you're talking Dai!
@@RobEvansWoodsman Anytime mate, no worries at all...
What’s your view after years?
Change the handle!
Coating was just a waste of money, with thicker more comfortable scales this blade is transformed, it was ok as standard it really isn't good for prolonged use with those skinny scales.
Luckily for me rehandling a knife is easy, but not for everyone.
Great video! What was the condition of the tungsten coating after you used the knife? Did the coating come off and was it scratched?
Hardly made a mark, however if I was to buy this knife again I wouldn't bother with the coating, I have the A1x and I didn't bother with the coating, I picked up a second hand F1x with coating, that had been well used and the coating was rubbing off in places where it touched the plastic sheath , after sharpening it looks a mess so don't bother with the coating unless you are going covert into a hostile environment!
Also you might have noticed me running a diamond hone over the edge to take the coating off the edge because it really wasn't sharp enough to shave sticks properly.
I have since taken the skinny scales off and put some beefy micarta ones on, it has completely changed the knife, I haven't done it to my other two Xseries knives because I like them like that.....
For now!
@@RobEvansWoodsman Thanks for the info. Looks like I'm leaning toward buying the satin finish of the S1X or the A1X. Keep the videos coming, great work!
@@rayferrer1709 I'd buy the A1X .
@@RobEvansWoodsman I've seen both your videos on these knives and I'm thinking the same thing.
You could rap your knife handle with tape or something like that that is what I did👍
Has wrapping the handle helped with how sharp the scales are?
Yes very much so
@@lexor101 Nice, thank you. Did you use something specific like hockey tape?
No I used slingshot rubber
@@lexor101 Interesting, thanks again!
Why would you fault the knife for the feather sticks not igniting? You were getting plenty of sparks!! Maybe the feather stick was too moist?
Trust me the sparks look better on film than they were coming off the spine.
Loved your video. Looking forward to purchasing this knife. I see you sharpened it using only a diamond rod and a strop. Can I use a stone (like the DC4) instead of the rod? There are a lot of people that scream in agony when they see others touch a convex edge with a hard surface (stone or rod, it doesn't matter). Most of them seem to advise only using a soft surface (like having sandpaper on top of a hard backed strop) which makes sense given the nature of the convex edge. But I also know that all these Fallknivens have a secondary micro bevel so touching it with a hard surface doesn't seem that off if you think about it. I'm just beginning my bushcraft journey and don't seem to find a good generally accepted advice on how to sharpen a convex edge. It seems that you have a lot of experience in the field so I was wondering what would your advice be in this case. Thank you very much and keep the great content coming. Cheers.
Nice review Rob!
What's the brand of that diamond sharpener?
that was starting to look like a knife destruction test, lol
Take a lot to destroy it!
I can not believe how often knife brands can not figure out what is a good handle.
I think the Gogs would call that tree Coed y Basdad!!!!
Well who needs a gym membership with a workout like that 🤔 a beast of a knife 🔪 not my cup of tea but if I ever hold one my opinion may change 😉
Handle is way too small for a big dude like you, handle is probably too small for a little fella like me.
@@RobEvansWoodsman you saying I got big hands ✋ mate
Yes!
S1x or A1x ?
A1x for me.
Nice knife Rob. I bet you don,t keep it though...
We'll see mate.
So this is the knife for haphazard, needless bashing about in the woods, eh?
No , it's far too expensive for that.
This is a good mid size knife but the handle is a little small.
I wanted to see what it'll take, it takes abuse well. I couldn't find anyone else on UA-cam doing this kind of review on the knife, plenty taking it out of a box and cutting rope and paper.
Wanting to test mid size survival/utility knives came from a recent experience a friend of mine took part in. Basically 4 days in winter with one knife and a ferrorod as the only tools, they were given carbon Scandi grind knives from casstrom, I'll cut a long story short, I asked him if he could have taken a knife of his choice what would it be. Answer, a mid size knife that's tough as hell , something like a Teravaa Pukko or a similar knife in better steel.
That's why I've been interested in hard testing mid size knives. By the way that comment came across very sarcastic but I know where you are coming from, I usually prefer a 4" scandi, saw and axe.
Variety is the spice of life !
RobEvans Outdoorsman On the contrary, mate; I may damn well buy that knife after watching your review.
Must say that knife spectacularly failed to impress me. I Certainly would not have put any of my money into it. 👎🏻
£84 pounds MORE than my Bush Tool.
(ps a rivet has fallen out of my dingaling Dangler)
Send me an email, I'll give you my address to send it back and I'll fix it.
Sorry about that.
Too much money for me...Doesn't even look that good with to many bad points :-(