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Just wanna let you know that your videos have helped me tremendously for my diy HVAC and electric subpanel installs. Explaining things concisely and without the "I'm smart" attitude. Thanks brother!
You are a good man for sharing your knowledge and putting yourself out there for criticism from people who think they know what they don't!! Great job. Respect
What I like is that you clearly showed that ambient has an effect. When you toggled to line temp it was above 65°. These lines go underground or through very hot attics.
Great video. I have been looking for something clear and to the point to help me explain to my newbies what the pressures would be on a typical New York summer day.
I never went to school. Was SH and SC taught back in the day? I learned coming up through the trade. 20 yrs ago it was rule of thumb. ( At least that was the way it was taught to me ) Once i learned SH and SC i became knowledgeable and proficient.
Sir , you are an icon of what an achievement is . The young should look at you and learn that mind is a terrible thing to waste. For all those who walk with their pants falling from their butt, I say watch this young man what he does with his life , and what you all doing to your lives . Thank you young man for being who you are , a model for humanity.
The pressures for a 410A refrigerant depends alot on ambient conditions. A 40°F evaporator would give you 118 lbs on the suction side or low side. On the high side and a 95°F ambient temperature you'll generate 295 -300 psig or lbs on the discharge side, or high side
You can do most stuff your self, change filter, clean outside coils, etc. I know electrical so I'll do anything related to that, replace starter cap, contactor, etc. If you have a heat pump, remove the fan cover and rust proof it the best you can, and replace the caps on the valves if there plastic with brass ones that have rubber seals in them. Sometimes a slow leak in the valve will lose Freon and don't need to get bent over to have it fixed if you can seal it with the cap. Nylog works great to around the valves.
I thought it was the cap but just the valve did not seat right took the cap off and there were bubbles .. Pop came out this time when I put Freon in it only 2 pounds and it is cold in the house.. Did a leak test with soap all around that area and nothing.. So far holding a charge I checked it after a week and still right on the mark.. So will see.. Everything is very clean no dirt blocking the fins. A 15 year old 3 ton Sears Kenmore Heat Pump unit.. I am sure another company made there systems for them..
also in class years ago we where all told that HVAC is not 100% correct science ,,,,anything within 3 degrees is acceptable in this trade ,,,,,this comes from a teacher at the time who had 35 years in this trade in today's time add another 25 years ,,,,,thanks guys be safe
Amazing the marketing campaign STILL getting people to call refrigerant "Freon". It has been almost 3 generations and they have such a small percentage of the market. I was unaware Freon was still available until I actually saw a guy use it in July of this year. At least with Kleenex it was on most every shelf. I really don't know how Freon could have been such an effective campaign. Chemours Company now owns the trademark Freon but originally Dow had it when introducing R 12 which really changed peoples lives. I just thought by this generation of techs the habit would be gone. You guys have chosen one of the more difficult trades and they keep throwing technology at you... that should demand higher pay for the techs. Great job... run your own business and make what you deserve. Just noticed that this is 5 years old. Does youtube not have current videos??? 🤣
I love these videos. Even tho I don't run residential anymore but it's these types of videos that give the homeowner a lil bit of courage to try and fix something they know nothing about. In turn they generally make the situation worse and that's more I would charge to fix the initial issue....plus what they jacked up
The most important concept in refrigeration is to realize that pressures are a consequence of temperature. Heat creates the load that causes pressures. Knowing pressures without knowing refrigerant temps (superheat & subcool) is less than half the picture and impossible to make a diagnosis from.
Relying on pressure only show his lack of refrigeration knowledge. Pressure is important, but you should not charge by pressures, but super heat and sub-cooling.
We REPLACED THE INSIDE Coil IN 2010, the 2ND FOR THIS BRYANT/carrier 5 ton. {410A} 2001 model was was made in Mexico rusted and leaked badly made like crap for old refrigerant bad welding smaller tubes. This second has been serviced 5 times and leaked also. Have spent over $1500 in bills for its 10 yrs. Now 2 mos ago was filled for $400, by my wife, by a P>O> S> AC contractor. It has already leaked out and the lines are frozen. The inside blower capacitor went out. Changed it and using only blower fan till we find leaks. I hate these sad excuses for quality. A replacemnt coil costs @ $1000 they had a 10 yr warranty.
Can tell you're definitely not in south Florida. We have to paint our insulation with elastomeric paint, we have to have our units anchored to a 4" thick solid pour hurricane rated slab, and a few other things we have to do differently to pass inspection. Love seeing how other states do things. The way you charge though is universal. Good work.
Replaced a heat pump and evaporator coil in a 3 ton air handler with 3-ton equipment. Needless to say I had to switch to a piston ( high head lockout) ... Had the right txv for HP. I thought it was airflow. Had great pressures with the piston. 21 degree temp drop and my 12 degrees. Watch out for that. It is new to me and I had to eat an a coil on that job.
It’s so funny the young guys coming in the trade have to have the fancy and color coordinated hoses and a set of $600.00 gauges to work on basic a/c residential units. I am retired service guy that worked in all aspect of refrigeration from drinking coolers, super market and industrial refrigeration to house hold a/c’s. I have been retired now 6 years now and I still carry a PT card in my wallet and use basic gauges. Young people are a trip
Yes. I plan to do more in depth charging videos in the near future. In this video I only wanted to talk about the pressures and correlating vapor and liquid saturation temperatures. Thanks for asking!
Great human being.God bless u Sir. May I please ask a question tho ..When the heat pump is heating inside..what side on the outdoor shall I take my air on and off the coil...I'm still an amateur in this game.Thank you very much.
Nice video where you discuss the basics. Can you do a similiar video where you discuss what the pressures of a system should be before you get concerned. I mean what sort of pressure ranges are ok. Cover TXV and fixed orifice. This would be very useful for newbies.
@@anthonym6843 I realize that, and to be honest, I think it's kind of interesting that subcool readings can vary on any particular system dependent on its operating pressure/ambient conditions. He could have mentioned that as well. I like this young guy, he's a great ambassador for our industry. I was just raising the issue because I only lasted exactly 30 days in my previous job. I was assigned to work with the companies "top mechanic" all but two days and I was stunned to learn the guy was so "old school", he felt taking subcool readings were unnecessary despite the fact I told him these readings are carefully calculated, that they're actually predictable in a properly charged system. The guy was also unable to use a meter but that could have been more an issue he could not read ladder wiring diagrams. He would literally "TUG" on a pair of wires all the way back to the control panel. I was fired the day I challenged his lack of skills. He also used soap bubbles to leak test. He used soap bubbles to do his initial leak tests. Who does that??? He does!!! I never saw anything quite like it and when I confronted him and his inability to troubleshoot, I received a phone call from the office about an hour later asking me to report to the office at the end of the day which is when they fired me. All the owner said was he was surprised at my behavior and that I should have known better. In a way, I got fired because I stood up for defending the importance of taking subcool readings, so I still have a shot at making it into heaven. LOL!
Hi having issues with a newly installed R410 A 3 1/2 ton unit keeps on freezing up no txv does it take 6 pounds of refrigerant like the name plate says and do you have a proper pressure chart that you can share ?
Is it freezing up in cooling or heating mode? If its in heating, it will freeze in low ambient temps. Make sure your defrost board is working, if it’s not going into defrost you got a bad board, or defrost sensor. If its freezing in cooling youre most likely low on refrigerant, which means you got a leak somewhere.
hey there a friend of mine just bought me a set of gauges analog in celsius but its ok for getting his unit going last week ,, i am retired at age 67,,, times has changed now with utube etc etc those fancy gauges you all have we had to do it all in our heads ,,,,but we did it ! i liked what you showed in trying to teach my friend so he would get a little of it,,,,AAAA+,,,love it , its all good ,,,,how much do those gauges by the way ? the set he got me for helping him he got on amazon in celsius is why they where like 39 bucks ,,,,just saying , better then nothing ,,,,
I believe it was about 55° F but to be honest I didn't take super detailed readings of everything on this one. My goal was to mainly show the VSAT and LSAT temperature pressure relationships. Thanks for asking!!
Morning Benjamin. Just enjoying your hvac videos again. 20 yr old rheem r22 system. It called out only liquid line pressure for charging. Not subcooling. Should I use the liquid line pressure to adjust charge? Or set subcooling to 8-12?
Isn't there a reference chart inside the cabinet or isn't there a reference chart that come with the refrigerant, so you can check pressures as they should be based on tonnage of the unit (3 ton unit I'm my case) and ambient temperature 98f the day my unit installed. As ambient temperatures increase so do the pressures, which my techs failed to do. They based their pressures on a normal day like yours, my accumulator sweating like crazy, and worry, pressures too low. Dealer won't check charts to make sure pressures are where they should be.
the temps on the manifold are from a PT chart correct? Don't you want to be looking at actual measured temp values of the liquid and vapor lines at the condenser and comparing them to the PT for R410A?
Hi. Its 97 degrees out here and my supply duct air temp reading is 63 degrees return duct air temp is 78 degrees. Inside the house by the thermostat it reads 81 degrees in house. The low side reads 125 hi side reads 325. Unit is charged for 15ft of line set. I have 18ft. I added 7 ounces. Do these numbers(low and high side pressures) seem good? I'm not sure how to do subcooling superheated and I dont have clamp probe meters. Thanks for any help. Its 410a . (A condenser I just installed)
@F P excuse me. I just installed the condenser, I did NOT change the evaporator. It's running and cooling. I was just curious if the pressures seemed ok. My delta T supply return differential was 18 degrees. I was told 15-20 is target and having close to 20 degree difference is best. I'm at 18 and happy. Not my house and they are selling the home
Hello ben. I love your videos. I have my home that it doesn’t go lower than 76 during the day Subcooling is at 11. I have a delta T of 14. I dont know what else to do. Please help me. Thank you
Hi Can you please make a video how you charge R410A Refregerant on mini-splt systems Mitsubishi, DAIKIN or at least fujitsu I'm EPA CERTIFIED MANY THANKS
Hi . I packed a small bottle of 410, the size of 800 g. Note that the manufacturer wrote in the outdoor unit, the air conditioner is 710 g. Only When the flask was completely filled, a white layer appeared on the intake pipe. But the scale indicates 70 psi. The air conditioner works normally except for an annoying loud sound when the compressor is running.. What is the solution respect the scale (710g) according to the manufacturer Or play until it reaches about (120psi) thanks
Pressures alone shouldn't be used to tell if the unit is properly charged regardless of the metering device type. txvs regulate superheat, not pressure alone - you can have low suction pressure caused by low airflow as an example, doesn't mean the valve is bad. check superheat/subcool to really see what's going on in a system.
question my unit is having a issue. condenser/fan is cutting on and off .. air handler is running fat checked stat batteries theyre Good i jumpt y and c at stat and yet condenser/fan did same cut on and off. I turned off cool on stat went out to condenser pusht in contactor compressor sounded normal but the fan wasn't kicking on. the start cap doesn't have a wire going from fan to cap .. its a ecm motor.. what could be causing this is issue? gauges w unit off read 125/250 that's low/high side manual old school gauges was about 75⁰ out w humidity here in north east...
what cause the negative value subcooling? I have 410a and the liquid line temp was over 140 f and the red gauge read 102f The system was low in 410a and I put 3lbs that dropped the temp on the low side pipe from 210f to 140 but like I said it's still high and result in negative subcooling value! The low side is reading 40f on gauge and the temp prop on the low side read 68f So the high side pressure is about 345psi and the low side is about 145psi based on the guages reading The outside temp was 74f afternoon The system is roof mount train Thanks
If I understand your question...at 74 degrees ambient..with a high side pressure at 345...sounds like you may ne over charged...so in order to determine sub cooling..put a temperature clamp on the high side copper line...minus the gauge temperature from the relative to psig) 345....remember the 345 represents the condenser saturation...so any temperature below is sub cooling....gas to liquid..do the same for the low side...temp clamp on larger diameter copper pipe...the 45 represents the coils saturation....the temperature above is the liquid to gas....I hope this helps..
Hi Ben, I have a 3.5 ton 14 SEER Goodman packaged heat pump on my house, I'm pretty sure I'm on borrowed time considering I had this unit put in back in the summer of 2009. I noticed lately that almost my entire compressor, the entire accumulator, and most of the fixed metering device is completely covered in condensation, I live in Florida and I assume a lot of this is due to the high humidity here, I also noticed that the insulation under the top cover of the unit fell apart. About a week ago I cleaned the condensing and evap cores on it, the fins on the condensing core are flaking off in a few spots due to the age of it, but nothing super excessive, the evap core is still solid. I had been noticing the compressor was much louder on start up and even when running was a bit louder than it had been, I replaced the dual run cap with an Amrad with the CPT terminal, the cap is a 45/5 mfd, I put a 5-2-1 hard start kit in it with the separate potential relay, the contacts on the contactor looked a bit burnt, it was still working, but I replaced it just to be safe. I did notice after replacing these items the compressor starts up faster and quieter and seems to be running quieter too. I noticed that after doing all of this that the air blowing off the condenser fan isn't as hot as it once was and there is less condensation draining out of the unit. It is still cooling my house and has cold air coming out of the vents. The cap and contactor I replaced were the factory originals with the unit, I tested the original cap out of curiosity and it is supposed to be a 45/5 but it was only giving me 29/3 mfd's. Could the compressor have sustained some damage from running with a weak cap all this time and is this amount of time and is this amount of condensation on it normal? Would the fact that the insulation on the top cover of the unit is gone have anything to do with this?
Just had an American Standard 80% eff. System installed and they reused th old line set but didn’t put a vacuum on the system ? Talking with their boss he says they never do because it doesn’t matter with R410 ?
Sounds like the boss was blowing some smoke up your butt just to cover some half ass installation techniques. A proper evacuation of the line set/indoor coil is important for any refrigeration system for removal of non - condensables.
You charge a system with super heat and sub cool. Pressures are almost irrelevant as long as they dont show a restriction. If your not using super heat and sub cool your systems are not running at full efficiency
u said cant just check pressures alone cuz its a expantion valve but pistons involve more math to get perfectly charged have to get target super heat and match it with actual superheat
Very good job!!! I have a question...can this unit be adjusted to a lower evaporation temperature ?? ...hence.... to remove as much humidity from the interior ? Thanks
No...has to be charged to target subcool because of txv usually 10 degree subcool depending on wb air temp. To increase humidity removal try lowering air speed and re-evaluate charge.
I get lost on knowing what metering device the system has. I always run into systems that don't have easy access to view the coil. So i never know what im working with a piston or txv.
hey our teacher told us years ago ,,,,get the darn house cool and get out LOL ,,,,,,,just saying ,,,that is whats important,, many techs have those fancy gauges and dont understand what their telling them anyhow ,,,,,peace / love friend dont sweat it too much ,,,,,
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Take it from an OLD Ammonia Service Tech.... That was great info for the general upcoming Service Techs.... Good Job..
Just wanna let you know that your videos have helped me tremendously for my diy HVAC and electric subpanel installs. Explaining things concisely and without the "I'm smart" attitude. Thanks brother!
You are a good man for sharing your knowledge and putting yourself out there for criticism from people who think they know what they don't!!
Great job. Respect
good job explaining.....how the systems works .....on point//!!
Lol
Ssmllgue cotten not uding gas is ex..pls lecking
R410 a 120 to 130 ps discharged 430 450 psi
Very good. I'm an old timer and needed to confirm 410 pressures. Going out to blow one up. Thanks.
R410 sanding psi225sushion psi120to130. Discharge 450to500..
What I like is that you clearly showed that ambient has an effect. When you toggled to line temp it was above 65°. These lines go underground or through very hot attics.
Thank you for the video it does help now with this new high tech tools we need more young technicians like you great job
Great video. I have been looking for something clear and to the point to help me explain to my newbies what the pressures would be on a typical New York summer day.
I never went to school. Was SH and SC taught back in the day? I learned coming up through the trade. 20 yrs ago it was rule of thumb. ( At least that was the way it was taught to me ) Once i learned SH and SC i became knowledgeable and proficient.
Will come in handy every year when i do my inspection of my unit
Sir , you are an icon of what an achievement is . The young should look at you and learn that mind is a terrible thing to waste. For all those who walk with their pants falling from their butt, I say watch this young man what he does with his life , and what you all doing to your lives .
Thank you young man for being who you are , a model for humanity.
The pressures for a 410A refrigerant depends alot on ambient conditions. A 40°F evaporator would give you 118 lbs on the suction side or low side. On the high side and a 95°F ambient temperature you'll generate 295 -300 psig or lbs on the discharge side, or high side
I wish all A/C service people were like you and not try and sell a new system everytime we call them..
Service your unit bi-annually and there's no need for guys like us.
You can do most stuff your self, change filter, clean outside coils, etc. I know electrical so I'll do anything related to that, replace starter cap, contactor, etc. If you have a heat pump, remove the fan cover and rust proof it the best you can, and replace the caps on the valves if there plastic with brass ones that have rubber seals in them. Sometimes a slow leak in the valve will lose Freon and don't need to get bent over to have it fixed if you can seal it with the cap. Nylog works great to around the valves.
I thought it was the cap but just the valve did not seat right took the cap off and there were bubbles .. Pop came out this time when I put Freon in it only 2 pounds and it is cold in the house.. Did a leak test with soap all around that area and nothing.. So far holding a charge I checked it after a week and still right on the mark.. So will see.. Everything is very clean no dirt blocking the fins. A 15 year old 3 ton Sears Kenmore Heat Pump unit.. I am sure another company made there systems for them..
@@Howrider65 Heat pump accumulators rust and will leak. Mine is 14 yrs old and did start to leak.
@@jcstudios5629 Mine looks ok do they only get Freon threw them when you put the system on heat??
also in class years ago we where all told that HVAC is not 100% correct science ,,,,anything within 3 degrees is acceptable in this trade ,,,,,this comes from a teacher at the time who had 35 years in this trade in today's time add another 25 years ,,,,,thanks guys be safe
Amazing the marketing campaign STILL getting people to call refrigerant "Freon". It has been almost 3 generations and they have such a small percentage of the market. I was unaware Freon was still available until I actually saw a guy use it in July of this year. At least with Kleenex it was on most every shelf. I really don't know how Freon could have been such an effective campaign. Chemours Company now owns the trademark Freon but originally Dow had it when introducing R 12 which really changed peoples lives. I just thought by this generation of techs the habit would be gone. You guys have chosen one of the more difficult trades and they keep throwing technology at you... that should demand higher pay for the techs. Great job... run your own business and make what you deserve. Just noticed that this is 5 years old. Does youtube not have current videos??? 🤣
I love these videos. Even tho I don't run residential anymore but it's these types of videos that give the homeowner a lil bit of courage to try and fix something they know nothing about. In turn they generally make the situation worse and that's more I would charge to fix the initial issue....plus what they jacked up
The most important concept in refrigeration is to realize that pressures are a consequence of temperature. Heat creates the load that causes pressures. Knowing pressures without knowing refrigerant temps (superheat & subcool) is less than half the picture and impossible to make a diagnosis from.
Exactly I really don't care about pressures, only SH and SC
Relying on pressure only show his lack of refrigeration knowledge. Pressure is important, but you should not charge by pressures, but super heat and sub-cooling.
@@kenbowen5475 These two above comments, for sure. Real HVAC guys....
Super helpful, especially since he uses the new gauges.
Sshhhh. You’re giving the secrets away bro. You’re going to make these DIY guys technicians. 😂😂😂
I like that refrigerant analyzer tool, i wish i could have someday someway.
$675 save you tons of time.
Awesome videos!! Las Vegas ambient temperatures are crazy high 105-120 would like to see videos done in Las Vegas where heat is crazy
Thanks Ben. Please do a video on a R410 Mini-Spit. Pressures... Temp's...
We REPLACED THE INSIDE Coil IN 2010, the 2ND FOR THIS BRYANT/carrier 5 ton. {410A} 2001 model was was made in Mexico rusted and leaked badly made like crap for old refrigerant bad welding smaller tubes. This second has been serviced 5 times and leaked also. Have spent over $1500 in bills for its 10 yrs. Now 2 mos ago was filled for $400, by my wife, by a P>O> S> AC contractor. It has already leaked out and the lines are frozen. The inside blower capacitor went out. Changed it and using only blower fan till we find leaks. I hate these sad excuses for quality. A replacemnt coil costs @ $1000 they had a 10 yr warranty.
Good video. Keep up the good work. We all enjoy learning more about the system. Thanks
Can tell you're definitely not in south Florida. We have to paint our insulation with elastomeric paint, we have to have our units anchored to a 4" thick solid pour hurricane rated slab, and a few other things we have to do differently to pass inspection. Love seeing how other states do things. The way you charge though is universal. Good work.
Alot of ppl here dont even paint it haha florida has some fucked up ac ppl out there
@@micv5713 agreed
Good job, nice info presentation. Keep it up!
Replaced a heat pump and evaporator coil in a 3 ton air handler with 3-ton equipment. Needless to say I had to switch to a piston ( high head lockout) ... Had the right txv for HP. I thought it was airflow. Had great pressures with the piston. 21 degree temp drop and my 12 degrees. Watch out for that. It is new to me and I had to eat an a coil on that job.
Thanx
It’s so funny the young guys coming in the trade have to have the fancy and color coordinated hoses and a set of $600.00 gauges to work on basic a/c residential units. I am retired service guy that worked in all aspect of refrigeration from drinking coolers, super market and industrial refrigeration to house hold a/c’s. I have been retired now 6 years now and I still carry a PT card in my wallet and use basic gauges. Young people are a trip
The old timer know how thing work. Knowledge is power sir. Fancy tool does help!😊
Good man Ben
Reminds me of me when I was a young buck
Thank you for your reply.
please keep the good work and sharing videos.
you good
great explanation young man
You only displayed the pressures.. What were the superheat and subcool running at? Indoor WB? SAT?
Yes. I plan to do more in depth charging videos in the near future. In this video I only wanted to talk about the pressures and correlating vapor and liquid saturation temperatures. Thanks for asking!
Great human being.God bless u Sir.
May I please ask a question tho ..When the heat pump is heating inside..what side on the outdoor shall I take my air on and off the coil...I'm still an amateur in this game.Thank you very much.
Nice, neat and concise explanation - thanks!
You are an Electrician, and one of the best , you are hurting yourself doing HVAC or Air conditioning work.
Stay on your trade Ben.
Nice video where you discuss the basics. Can you do a similiar video where you discuss what the pressures of a system should be before you get concerned. I mean what sort of pressure ranges are ok. Cover TXV and fixed orifice. This would be very useful for newbies.
Yes I have no idea how to differentiate between txv and pistons which becomes a non-starter
Great video, the only thing I would have discussed was what subcool readings should be.
Not every system is the same subcooling. You gotta read the data plate, itll tell you what the subcooling needs to be
@@anthonym6843 I realize that, and to be honest, I think it's kind of interesting that subcool readings can vary on any particular system dependent on its operating pressure/ambient conditions. He could have mentioned that as well. I like this young guy, he's a great ambassador for our industry. I was just raising the issue because I only lasted exactly 30 days in my previous job. I was assigned to work with the companies "top mechanic" all but two days and I was stunned to learn the guy was so "old school", he felt taking subcool readings were unnecessary despite the fact I told him these readings are carefully calculated, that they're actually predictable in a properly charged system. The guy was also unable to use a meter but that could have been more an issue he could not read ladder wiring diagrams. He would literally "TUG" on a pair of wires all the way back to the control panel. I was fired the day I challenged his lack of skills. He also used soap bubbles to leak test. He used soap bubbles to do his initial leak tests. Who does that??? He does!!! I never saw anything quite like it and when I confronted him and his inability to troubleshoot, I received a phone call from the office about an hour later asking me to report to the office at the end of the day which is when they fired me. All the owner said was he was surprised at my behavior and that I should have known better. In a way, I got fired because I stood up for defending the importance of taking subcool readings, so I still have a shot at making it into heaven. LOL!
Wow that is unreal dude. That company must have sucked. You were absolutely right. And the guy cant read a ladder diagram? Fuck that company
Hi having issues with a newly installed R410 A 3 1/2 ton unit keeps on freezing up no txv does it take 6 pounds of refrigerant like the name plate says and do you have a proper pressure chart that you can share ?
Is it freezing up in cooling or heating mode? If its in heating, it will freeze in low ambient temps. Make sure your defrost board is working, if it’s not going into defrost you got a bad board, or defrost sensor. If its freezing in cooling youre most likely low on refrigerant, which means you got a leak somewhere.
hey there a friend of mine just bought me a set of gauges analog in celsius but its ok for getting his unit going last week ,, i am retired at age 67,,, times has changed now with utube etc etc those fancy gauges you all have we had to do it all in our heads ,,,,but we did it ! i liked what you showed in trying to teach my friend so he would get a little of it,,,,AAAA+,,,love it , its all good ,,,,how much do those gauges by the way ? the set he got me for helping him he got on amazon in celsius is why they where like 39 bucks ,,,,just saying , better then nothing ,,,,
So superheat and subcooling I never heard the terms you used
Thanks for sharing.
At 85 outdoor temp what was the supply air temp at the registers.
I believe it was about 55° F but to be honest I didn't take super detailed readings of everything on this one. My goal was to mainly show the VSAT and LSAT temperature pressure relationships. Thanks for asking!!
Depends on the indoor air temperature and the static air pressure. Indoor air restrictions increase the delta
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. You video was very helpful
You still did not say what the what the pressure should
Watch the gauges. On a 83 degree day 125 low side. 289 high but other variables count for operating
About 125 psi for all outside weather
Morning Benjamin. Just enjoying your hvac videos again. 20 yr old rheem r22 system. It called out only liquid line pressure for charging. Not subcooling. Should I use the liquid line pressure to adjust charge? Or set subcooling to 8-12?
God bless you keep going i see a brilliant future for you
Isn't there a reference chart inside the cabinet or isn't there a reference chart that come with the refrigerant, so you can check pressures as they should be based on tonnage of the unit (3 ton unit I'm my case) and ambient temperature 98f the day my unit installed. As ambient temperatures increase so do the pressures, which my techs failed to do. They based their pressures on a normal day like yours, my accumulator sweating like crazy, and worry, pressures too low. Dealer won't check charts to make sure pressures are where they should be.
Could you explain 410 A without digital gauges Charging procedures
the temps on the manifold are from a PT chart correct? Don't you want to be looking at actual measured temp values of the liquid and vapor lines at the condenser and comparing them to the PT for R410A?
Your video doesn’t show up in my subscription feed. It’s only showing up in my notification section
So, what is the maximum pressure that an evaporator should be capable of using r-410A?
Best video I have see. Yet
Hi. Its 97 degrees out here and my supply duct air temp reading is 63 degrees return duct air temp is 78 degrees. Inside the house by the thermostat it reads 81 degrees in house. The low side reads 125 hi side reads 325. Unit is charged for 15ft of line set. I have 18ft. I added 7 ounces. Do these numbers(low and high side pressures) seem good? I'm not sure how to do subcooling superheated and I dont have clamp probe meters. Thanks for any help. Its 410a . (A condenser I just installed)
@F P excuse me. I just installed the condenser, I did NOT change the evaporator. It's running and cooling. I was just curious if the pressures seemed ok. My delta T supply return differential was 18 degrees. I was told 15-20 is target and having close to 20 degree difference is best. I'm at 18 and happy. Not my house and they are selling the home
@F P What a dickhead.
Hello ben. I love your videos. I have my home that it doesn’t go lower than 76 during the day
Subcooling is at 11. I have a delta T of 14. I dont know what else to do. Please help me. Thank you
Hi benjamin,what is the common trouble of the TXV or thermostatic expansion valve,,,anyway im edgar from the philippines also a ac technician
Big blue and little red lol How it was first shown to me 12 years ago and still How I say it when teaching new guys in the field
Hi
Can you please make a video how you charge R410A Refregerant on mini-splt systems Mitsubishi, DAIKIN or at least fujitsu
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MANY THANKS
Great job guys. Keep it coming.
What should be suction pressure of normal mini Split inverter R410a system at 110 Degrees Ambient temperature????
Hi . I packed a small bottle of 410, the size of 800 g. Note that the manufacturer wrote in the outdoor unit, the air conditioner is 710 g. Only
When the flask was completely filled, a white layer appeared on the intake pipe. But the scale indicates 70 psi. The air conditioner works normally except for an annoying loud sound when the compressor is running..
What is the solution respect the scale (710g) according to the manufacturer
Or play until it reaches about (120psi) thanks
Awesome explanation, thank you
Pressures alone shouldn't be used to tell if the unit is properly charged regardless of the metering device type. txvs regulate superheat, not pressure alone - you can have low suction pressure caused by low airflow as an example, doesn't mean the valve is bad.
check superheat/subcool to really see what's going on in a system.
Agreed.
So what would be the correct reading on the gauges with a 410a Compressor model zp38k5e-tf5-130?
question my unit is having a issue. condenser/fan is cutting on and off .. air handler is running fat checked stat batteries theyre Good i jumpt y and c at stat and yet condenser/fan did same cut on and off. I turned off cool on stat went out to condenser pusht in contactor compressor sounded normal but the fan wasn't kicking on. the start cap doesn't have a wire going from fan to cap .. its a ecm motor.. what could be causing this is issue? gauges w unit off read 125/250 that's low/high side manual old school gauges was about 75⁰ out w humidity here in north east...
Very good information bro keep it up God bless
what cause the negative value subcooling?
I have 410a and the liquid line temp was over 140 f and the red gauge read 102f
The system was low in 410a and I put 3lbs that dropped the temp on the low side pipe from 210f to 140 but like I said it's still high and result in negative subcooling value!
The low side is reading 40f on gauge and the temp prop on the low side read 68f
So the high side pressure is about 345psi and the low side is about 145psi based on the guages reading
The outside temp was 74f afternoon
The system is roof mount train
Thanks
If I understand your question...at 74 degrees ambient..with a high side pressure at 345...sounds like you may ne over charged...so in order to determine sub cooling..put a temperature clamp on the high side copper line...minus the gauge temperature from the relative to psig) 345....remember the 345 represents the condenser saturation...so any temperature below is sub cooling....gas to liquid..do the same for the low side...temp clamp on larger diameter copper pipe...the 45 represents the coils saturation....the temperature above is the liquid to gas....I hope this helps..
Deffenitly overcharged.
U could be doing the maths wrong, its line minus gauge one side, then gauge minus line on other
Hi Ben, I have a 3.5 ton 14 SEER Goodman packaged heat pump on my house, I'm pretty sure I'm on borrowed time considering I had this unit put in back in the summer of 2009. I noticed lately that almost my entire compressor, the entire accumulator, and most of the fixed metering device is completely covered in condensation, I live in Florida and I assume a lot of this is due to the high humidity here, I also noticed that the insulation under the top cover of the unit fell apart.
About a week ago I cleaned the condensing and evap cores on it, the fins on the condensing core are flaking off in a few spots due to the age of it, but nothing super excessive, the evap core is still solid. I had been noticing the compressor was much louder on start up and even when running was a bit louder than it had been, I replaced the dual run cap with an Amrad with the CPT terminal, the cap is a 45/5 mfd, I put a 5-2-1 hard start kit in it with the separate potential relay, the contacts on the contactor looked a bit burnt, it was still working, but I replaced it just to be safe.
I did notice after replacing these items the compressor starts up faster and quieter and seems to be running quieter too. I noticed that after doing all of this that the air blowing off the condenser fan isn't as hot as it once was and there is less condensation draining out of the unit. It is still cooling my house and has cold air coming out of the vents.
The cap and contactor I replaced were the factory originals with the unit, I tested the original cap out of curiosity and it is supposed to be a 45/5 but it was only giving me 29/3 mfd's. Could the compressor have sustained some damage from running with a weak cap all this time and is this amount of time and is this amount of condensation on it normal? Would the fact that the insulation on the top cover of the unit is gone have anything to do with this?
Just had an American Standard 80% eff. System installed and they reused th old line set but didn’t put a vacuum on the system ? Talking with their boss he says they never do because it doesn’t matter with R410 ?
Sounds like the boss was blowing some smoke up your butt just to cover some half ass installation techniques. A proper evacuation of the line set/indoor coil is important for any refrigeration system for removal of non - condensables.
Thank you for the video!
nice gauges nice quick review. what brand wrist watch do you wear? thats what im looking for
why does my r410a heat pump suction pressure read 400 psi even if its not running 77 degrees outside
we just had someone install a our new AC R-410A and is very loud inside the house but not outside, is this normal, I just can't stand the loud noise.
You charge a system with super heat and sub cool. Pressures are almost irrelevant as long as they dont show a restriction. If your not using super heat and sub cool your systems are not running at full efficiency
At least you are honest !
Nice easy explanation. 👍🏻
The range of pressures for R -22 in the Low Saturation Side is also from 38 to 45 degrees or is it just for 410 A? Thank you for the video
Good job guys appreciate it
Ben I have a 4 ton 410a Goodman and have to add freon what leak sealant do you recommend for leaks if any
What are the non operating pressures of R22 and R410? when the unit is filled but not running?
Standing pressure for R22 is around 165 PSI and for R410a it is around 225 psi
Thanks for your explanation it is profesional .what brand Dig monifiled gauge you are usig?
u said cant just check pressures alone cuz its a expantion valve but pistons involve more math to get perfectly charged have to get target super heat and match it with actual superheat
My suction side is running high 360 psi on the R410 what is the problem please advise me
Do you have a heat pump that is running in Heating mode?
Very good video, thanks Ben
Thanks amigo easily explained
Nice video man.
Muy buena esplicacion mi amigo👍
Holly crap it's the Beaver.. Where is Wally and Eddie.. Good job buy the way..
Awesome job thank you
where you make your service ? Are you also service as an electrician ?
Very helpful love the vid
Good job 👏 👍
thank you for this video
Good job Guys
Great video!
Thanks
What pressure should have if unit has full charge of 410A whit unit off??
Dependnds on the ambient temperature outside
Very good job!!! I have a question...can this unit be adjusted to a lower evaporation temperature ?? ...hence.... to remove as much humidity from the interior ? Thanks
No...has to be charged to target subcool because of txv usually 10 degree subcool depending on wb air temp. To increase humidity removal try lowering air speed and re-evaluate charge.
I get lost on knowing what metering device the system has. I always run into systems that don't have easy access to view the coil. So i never know what im working with a piston or txv.
hey our teacher told us years ago ,,,,get the darn house cool and get out LOL ,,,,,,,just saying ,,,that is whats important,, many techs have those fancy gauges and dont understand what their telling them anyhow ,,,,,peace / love friend dont sweat it too much ,,,,,