Changing Brake Fluid: G37 Sport / 370Z - Motorvate's DIY Garage Ep. 10
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- In this episode of Motorvate’s DIY Garage, we show you how to change the brake fluid on your G37 with sport package or 370Z.
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I got myself a pressure bleeder tool kit with a case for all car adapters. The great thing about it, you fill up the tank with 1-2 liters of brake fluid and pump the pressure and it makes the job very easy.. so you don’t need to check the level all the time you bleed the caliper..
I use it on my cars and friends cars. Very handy.
Hey Aziz Peers,
That method does work very well and there is much less risk of the fluild level getting too low and pushing in air into the system.
These vids are too professional. Good stuff. Could you post a link on where you got the tools to do this? Never mind, got a bleed kit.
Hey duttybiggz,
Thanks for your kind words!
A proper bleed kit is nice to have. No need to fuss around trying to make a good seal.
Happy brake bleeding :)
Do You recommend doing this even if I don’t track days ? Haven’t changed brake fluid and have almost 96k miles
Hey man I’m new to the channel and also new to the vq community, thanks for the great content and keep doing ur thing!
Hey Storm Dizon,
Thanks and welcome to the VQ family :)
This guy is a good educator
I enjoy his videos 👍
Hey Scott Cook,
Well... thanks for your kind words!
I love your videos; they'e a great help. I'm upgrading the rotors and pads on my 370z sport to the Akebono two-piece lightweight rotors and street performance G-Loc pads.
You're a very good teacher.
Coming from chevys they had one bleeder per caliber (even the Camaro's with brembos) on the bottom side so it made it stupid easy to bleed without having to design any tools around this job specifically.
I'm swapping from non sport to sport brakes on my G including going to braided stainless steel lines that aren't like the factory design at all so I'm having to start from scratch and I really appreciate the attention to detail in this video.
That is why I watched your video, just to find the Infiniti specific tips and I found what I was going to do for the bleeding was incorrect as well. And that the ABS should be unplugged.
Thank you for the video, great tips and professionalism all round :)
Hey KC,
I'm glad your found the video helpful :)
Great video! What would you recommend removing the filter of the brake fluid? I am pulling and twisting the filter and it won't budge out.. :(
Hey NuBMikeY,
That's odd... I was able to put in two fingers, apply a little pressure to the outside and lift it up and out. Maybe try that?
Very well done video! I have the Coupe version with these type of calipers, so I'm sure the process is the same. Question though, why use a pressurized bottle as opposed to having some one pump the brakes. Is your method better for a one person situation and that is the only difference? Again, thank you for sharing your knowledge!!
Hey Ryan Scheppe,
The only reason I pressurized the master cylinder is so it can be done by one person and done a little quicker. So you guessed it!
Thanks for your kind words on this video :)
Holy shit these are some quality videos. Subbing since I own a G37.
Wow, well thank you for the great compliment!
can i leave the brake cap off while doing the 2 person method? or leave it on, after re filling the fluid
Leaving the cap off while bleeding the brakes is fine.
Just try to minimize how long it is off for. Brake fluid like to absorb moisture from the air and that lowers its boiling point.
Good luck!
My car had extremely sensitive brakes (same akebonos) but after some work i did on the front end that required me disconnecting the spindle (causing brake line to hang just a bit), my brakes have since been less sensitive and spongier than normal.
It was an immediate effect after working on my car. This didn’t just happen through wear and tear, it happened immediately after putting everything back together..
What do you think went wrong?
Interesting problem!!
I suspect there may be a partial blockage (restriction) in the rubber hose or a kinked metal brake line.
This will reduce the brake fluid flow and result in slow to respond and sticking brakes.
I had this happen on my (wonderful!!) 1999 Altima. The metal mounting collar on the rubber brake line had expanded so much from corrosion, the brake hose was compressed into a pin hole!
Try to bleed your brakes... This will allow you to verify brake fluid flow. Also, check the metal brake lines for any kinks.
Good luck!
Thanks for sharing this video. I'm trying to be more proactive about taking care of my car on my own and this video definitely helps! Keep them coming!
You are welcome and I am very happy that the videos are helpful to you. Every two weeks, a new video will be released and the next one is "How to Change the Differential Oil" on Feb 3.
@@MotorvateDIY I have a question what if you bled all four brake calipers and you still have air in the system how do you go about bleeding the brake master cylinder and after you do that, do you still have to bleed all four brake calipers again
If you have bled all 4 calipers and still have a soft brake pedal / air in the system, then you didn't get all the air out of the system and I would bleed them again.
Once the air is out, you will have good brakes, BUT it may take a few attempts.
AND if you don't have solid brake pedal after bleeding, there may be a problem in your brake system that is allowing air to enter.
@@MotorvateDIY ok great but do I still need to bleed the brake master cylinder as well
Assuming you didn't replace the master cylinder, once you bleed the brakes, there is nothing that needs to be done at the master cylinder, as all the air should be out of the system.
To anyone that doesn't have a helper, those little one man bleeder kits they sell for like $10 works. Just use super glue to put the parts together because once fluid gets on it it tends to fall apart. They have a one way valve inside the cap to prevent air from getting sucked in. So no need to keep constantly closing the bleeder valve.
Thanks for the tip!
Thank you very much for these high quality videos. They have helped me out a lot when working on my g37.
Hey Diego,
Thanks for your kind words!! I'm glad to help. :)
Instead of putting pressure from the master cylinder, can i pump the the brake pedal to flush it out as well?
Hey JuJu99,
Yes, pumping the brake pedal also works very well, if you can get a volunteer.
As a quick review, the sequence is:
• push on brake pedal
• open the bleeder and fluid will come out and the pedal will go to the floor.
• when the flow stops, close the bleeder
• Lift foot off the brake pedal
• and repeat until the fluid is clear.
*** KEEP A CLOSE EYE ON THE BRAKE FLUID LEVEL WHILE BLEEDING, YOU DON'T WANT THE LEVEL TO GET LOW AND SUCK IN AIR ***
Good Luck!
I have a 2008 Infiniti G37s with 70,000kms. I am the third owner and to my knowledge the brake fluid has never been changed. I would like to flush it out fairly soon, however, have heard that changing it this overdue might cause issues. What is your opinion of this?
Thanks!
Hey Dougie LaForce,
I can't see how changing your brake fluid can cause issues. Changing old transmission fluid can cause issues, but not brake fluid.
Good luck and just be careful when you open the bleeders making sure to use a 6 point wrench and don't over tighten them. The sport brakes bleeder tightening torque is 70 inch pounds or 6 foot lbs.
What's the brake fluid capacity? Will two quarts do or should I get three just in case?
If memory servers correct, 1 quart/litre should be good.
I used about 1 1/2 quarts/litres just to be sure all the old fluid is pushed out.
I really appreciate your videos! How much fluid did you end up using on total - wondering how much to purchase to complete the job? Thanks in advance.
Looking at upgrading to the Motul RBF 600 fluid that I also used for my clutch - based on your video for the clutch fluid. Thanks
Hey Wayne Warnock,
Thanks for your kind words!
One 500 ml bottle is more than enough for the brakes and the clutch, if you have one :)
Anytime :)
Great video man very detailed. I didn't know there was bleeder valves on the inside of the calipers. I know the ones in front I can get too easily with my wide spoked rims. Well I may have to cancel my plans of doing this in the parking lot somewhere today with out lifting the car up. When I lift my car up its at a shop and I pay a pretty penny to use the lift.
Hey hey bud,
I think you have two other options:
• Use the factory jack to remove the wheels, one at a time to get access to both bleeder valves
• Just use the top ones. Changing most of the brake fluid is better than none.
Thanks for you comment & good luck!
Thanks for the video, nice content! Do i really need to build pressure in the master cylinder, ive seen other videos where they omit that ? Thanks
Hey Nassir Kassanaly,
In order to bleed the brakes you need pressure... either from a garden sprayer or by someone pushing on the brake pedal.
Since this channel is a "do it yourself", the video shows how to do it without a helper.
@@MotorvateDIY Ok thanks!
An other way to close the brake fluid reservoir to pressurize it is to use an old brake fluid cap, drill the center, cut a disc shape from an inner tube and fit it inside to make it airtight, and finally add a hose barb adapter with an o ring and a nut. Instead of the hose barb adapter, you could use a tire valve so that you can use an air compressor (making sure you set the correct pressure first) or fit a Schrader clip-on connector to the hose from the garden sprayer.
That works well too. Actually, that is how I bleed my brakes on my E39. For the video I wanted to show something that didn't require building an adapter. BUT the most import thing is to use the tool the best works for you :)
I think I know the answer, but if I were replacing one caliper on the car (let's say the front left caliper), am I able to bleed the brakes for that one caliper, or do I need to follow the order and bleed all the brakes? (2015 Infiniti Q40 Sedan)
You should be ok, if you just bleed that side, assuming you were quick to remove and connect the brake line.
A test drive will tell you quickly if any air is in the system as the brakes will have a soft feel to them.
Good luck!
Just performed this DIY but with a vacuum bleeder instead, after changing it I still have a spongy brake pedal. I noticed alot of air bubbles from the driver rear side. Should I go ahead and rebleed the brakes?
Also what size vinyl tubing did you use for the brake bleeding part? Thanks in advance! :)
Hey Daniel P,
If your pedal is soft or spongy, there is air in the system.
Bleed them again, but maybe use a helper:
(1) Make sure master cylinder is at the full mark
(2) push on a 2-3 foot clear vinyl tube on the bleed nipple and the other end into a jar.
(3) Ask the helper to press firmly on the brake pedal AND NOT TO LIFT UNTIL TOLD TO
(4) Open the bleeder nipple. Once the flow stops, then close the nipple
(5) Ask the helper to lift up the pedal
As for the tubing size, I think it is 3/16" BUT your bleeder nipples may be a different.
I don't like the vacuum bleeders since they can suck air past the threaded part of the nipple. It doesn't get into the system,
BUT it looks like you are removing a lot of air from the system.
*** ALWAYS KEEP AN EYE ON THE BRAKE FLUID LEVEL ***
It is so easy to let it get too low and then get air into the ABS module, which can be difficult to get it out.
Good luck Daniel and please let me know how it turns out :)
Motorvate DIY I have no one to help me! So would going your route work just as good? Also thank you so much for all the help! You are the best!
Hey Daniel P,
If you don't have a helper, I think your best option would be to pressurize the master cylinder as in the video.
I hope you can find something to adapt the garden sprayer to the master cylinder.
Good luck!
Have you ever gotten shuddering from the rotors being warped and pulsing in the brake peddle from the warping on these cars? what can be done, I had bought a set from O'riellys not sure if their rotors could be reason or these cars are prone to warping the rotors
My original Infiniti rotors are still on my car at 113,000 miles (181,000 KM) and they shake the steering wheel a lot when braking on the highway, so I know what you are talking about.
I don't think it is a common issue on the G37. If you have the smaller brakes (non-sport) it is important to clean and regrease the caliper pins.
Over time, the grease dries out and they corrode. This prevents the caliper from fully releasing and that over heats the brake rotors which may warp them.
If you have ever replaced brake pads, and the inboard pad is a different thickness than the outboard, you have a sticking caliper due to sticky or seized caliper pins.
I would check those first. As for what grease to use, I would check and see what the factory shop manual says.
On a final note, there are many *VERY* (too?) cheap brake parts. They seem to work well for a few months and then cause issues. Stick with a well known brand.
i forgot to disconnect the ABS while changing fluid the same way as you did. Is the pressurized fluid going to cause any problem to the ABS unit?
Hey Wayte,
I think you will be just fine.
The reason the factory shop manual wants the ABS unit disconnected is to prevent any chance of the unit powering up. (it does a self test when the ignition is in the ON position and that could cause air to enter the system)
Please let me know how it turns out. Good luck!
@@MotorvateDIY i see. Thank you! I just changed it few days ago and so far so good!
Hey, love the video. I have a quick question. When I turned the the inside and outside nipple of the caliber the brake fluid would only come out of one. Did I do something wrong?? Is there a way to fix that??
Hey Marcus McVay,
You haven't done any thing wrong...
I had that *EXACT* same issue. The bleeder was plugged with some white power.
The fix is to remove it quickly, use a stiff wire to push out the blockage, then blow out any debris and put it back in.
Then bleed the brakes as normal.
Good luck!
Thank you for the quick reply and great advice.
Hey Marcus McVay,
Anytime :)
That one man bleeder they sell at Walmart for $6 did the trick for me. If the damn bottle wasn't so small it would be perfect. I had just changed my calipers and bleed with the engine running and I could actually see the bubbles coming up through the master cylinder.
Hey cooldaddyslick,
Excellent! I'm glad you got the air out of your brake lines.
As with many things there is always more than one way to do something :)
Just stopping in to say thanks for all the helpful information! Your videos as always are top notch and well thought out.
I just did a standard to sport akebono calipers on my 37 this weekend and stainless steel lines. Long story short the bleeding is taking the longest time due to me using the harbor freight bleeder that uses an compressor and air hose to suck the fluid from the caliper bleed screw. My compressor is one of those small hot dog style ones and runs out of air fairly quick. Hoping I can button this up this week with the new compressor I just bought :)
By the way the graphics in your video for the bleed pattern get's a huge thumbs up. Helpful and looked sweet 👍🏼 keep rockin Motorvate!!
Hey Stephen,
Thanks for stopping by and your kind words!
I am happy to hear you liked the bleed pattern graphics.
If you can find a helper, you can always bleed the brakes the old fashioned way :)
Great video thanks
Can I ask
Why do you need to unplug the abs module ?
Hey Nicholas Hollingsworth,
Two reasons:
(1) It is a step in the factory shop manual
(2) It prevents any chance of the ABS pump running. (For example, if you turn the ignition on the pump might run which could pump air into the system)
Could this step be skipped? Sure, but since it only takes a minute to disconnect the ABS unit, it is better safe than sorry.
Hi Motorvate,
I have a question. I have same car as you. I did the brake bleeding and now my brake pedal is spongy and i have a brake pull to right. I remember i did not let the fluid reservoir go empty so there is no way of air getting in ABS. I bled the right rear first then left rear then front right and then front left. Should i bleed the brakes again per your DIY?
Hey Danish Khan,
My guess is that there is some air in the lines, which is why it pulls to the right.
Sometimes if the master cylinder level is low but not empty, it might be able to pull in a little air.
I would bleed them again and try to make sure you close the bleeder while the brake fluid is still flowing.
Good luck!
What is the second reservoir beside the main brake reservoir? Is that for the rear? Mines empty but the main one is filled?
I am not exactly sure what you are referring to.
If you are asking about the small round reservoir on the right, that is for my hydraulic clutch. (which also uses the same brake fluid)
What brake fluid do you recommend? Thanks in advanced
Any brake fluid that meets the spec (DOT 3) is good.
I have had no problems with the Nissan/Infiniti (available at the dealer) or Motul RBF 600 brake fluid.
There really isn't a wrong choice :)
Why did you disconnect abs? Do you have to if you bleed by gravity?
Well... because the factory shop manual said to.
This prevents the ABS pump from starting up at random or if the ignition is turn on during the self test.
Came across this when trying to troubleshoot an issue. Under acceleration, my brake light comes on, then my traction control light comes on and stays on. The brake light turns off. I’ve heard that could be due to low brake fluid. Any advice on this issue?
Hey Cory Clark,
If your brake fluid is low, this will happen.
Check the level and if it is low, add some so the level is at least between the min and max.
Thanks, that worked!!
great video like how you put all the detailed stuff in it and explained it very well also love that you showed how to build cheap and easy way to build pressuring bleeding tool it was really hard to try to find one that I could afford on my budget right now do your video help me out lots and quick question we did this on my friends but I had problems with my motor so I replaced it so I was kind of wondering should I replace my brake fluid because it's got it got the car brand new in the fluid is been in there for 70000 miles and then motor I put in his brand new so what I'm guessing I'm asking you do you think I should replace all fluids in my whole entire car since my motor is new?
Hey Austin,
I am glad the video was able to help you! As I DIYer for 25+ years, I love to share tips that have worked for me and hopefully you!
If you plan on keeping the car for a long time, I think it does make sense to change all the fluids.
BUT use the owner's manual as your guide. The original Nissan/Infiniti coolant (like the G37) are good for 84 months (7 Years) or 168,000 KM (105,000 miles) so it might not need to be changed.
With low brake fluid can that cause the VDC warning light to turn on and stay on for the G37S?
Absolutely! The ABS module is thinking you are low on brake fluid and as a result the ABS / VDC system may not be able to function as required.
Easy fix: Top of the brake fluid. BUT If you do your own brakes, when you push in the caliper pistons, this will cause the brake fluid to overflow, and brake fluid can eat paint.
Hey I just installed the akebono bbk on my G37x. It pulls to the left when braking so I checked the right front caliper and only one piston is releasing other 3 release very slowly when pumping the brakes. When I bled the calipers I started from the outer bleed nipple then moved to the inside. Do you think that would be the cause of it? Otherwise im probably going to have to rebuild the caliper. Thanks
Hey latino914,
First of all, excellent troubleshooting! I don't think the bleed order (outside then inside or inside then outside) makes any difference. If there is air in the system or if it is perfectly bled, all 4 pistons will still have the same pressure behind them.
It sounds like 3 caliper pistons are sticking. Before rebuilding the calipers, try this:
• Remove the caliper from the steering hub
• Insert a few pieces of wood between the caliper pistons that leave about 3/8" to 1/2" gap
• GENTLEY press on the brake pedal to extend all 4 pistons WITHOUT popping them out.
• Check for dirt and corrosion around the outside of the pistons and clean it up
• Push in all 4 caliper pistons (this can be tricky as one side goes in, the other may push out - just go slow. This episode may be helpful: ua-cam.com/video/BlYQBWZjUfQ/v-deo.html)
• When you push them back in, you will be able to gauge if the pistons are freed up and it not, a test drive will.
-or- just buy a rebuilt kit and you should be good to go.
Good luck!
@@MotorvateDIY Hey thanks for the advise. I did what you said and one of the pistons came loose and leaked fluid but i was able to pop it back in. I cleaned it the best I could. It's. Def better then it was before but still just a slight pull to the the left when hard braking. Im going to give it another a week and see if it gets better as I use the brakes more. And when I rebled them there was hardly any air in both bleeders. Thanks again!
Hey latino914,
I'm glad you made progress.
Also make sure the front tires are at the same pressure and that the front pads are not binding in the caliper.
I feel like I’m watching This Old House, I want one of these cars so bad, brb, I gotta like all your videos
Hey leinad20002,
Thanks for your kind words. Hopefully one day you will get a G35/G37 and the videos will help you save a little money when you do it yourself.
Another question is it a must to disconnect the battery or ABS module when doing this??
Hey Marcus McVay,
That's what the factory shop manual says to do.
It ensures if the car is accidentally turned on, the ABS pump won't run and pump air in the system if the level is low.
From past comments, I know people have bled their brakes without issues with it plugged in.
So, if you are careful you should be fine.
Hey by any chance do you have a list of the parts you used to make your pressure bleeder?
Off the top of my head:
- 30 PSI, 1/2" NPT gauge (I used a $10 pool pump gauge)
- garden sprayer
- about 3' of 1/4" inner diameter clear vinyl tubing
- 3 1/2" NPT to 1/4" barbed adapter
- 1 1/2" NPT "Tee"
- some kind of rubber plug that fits the master cylinder or modify an brake fluid cap from a scrap yard. (this is the tricky part)
The rubber stopper I used is no longer sold.
You will need to check the type of connection on the garden sprayer and make sure that you can get it to work with this setup.
Good luck!
Thank you very much.
Hey, so I have a question. I ran my master dry a while ago and have been trying to get the air out for literally ages. I have tired the 2 person method, vacuum bleeding, and pressure bleeding. I believe it’s in the abs system and can’t figure out how to get it out. If u have any advice I’d appreciate it!
Hey iOG,
(I am assuming this is on a G37)
I just searched through the G37 factory shop manual to see if there is any mention of how to bleed the ABS unit and it just says to perform the normal bleeding, which you have done.
Just to cover the basics, if you have the sport brakes (big brakes) did you bleed from both nipples on the front calipers?
If the car can be safely driven, you could try braking hard to engage the ABS a few times, then bleed the brakes again.
If air is trapped in the ABS module, this should help to get it out.
You could also try to slightly crack open a brake line fitting at the ABS module, with someone pressing on the brake pedal.
When the pedal hits the floor, tighten the fitting. Make sure to have a rag under the module to catch the brake fluid.
I wish you luck and please let me know how you make out.
@@MotorvateDIY I appreciate the response! I actually did try this a couple times last week, with no luck. I have been doing every single thing possible to get the air out of my brake system. I ended up taking it to the dealership and they sat there bleeding it with a diagnostics tool that allowed them to cycle the abs pumps and still couldn't get the air out! They say that it might be the master cylinder because I did run it dry and was braking hard with no fluid in the reservoir. I'm going to replace the master and see if this fixes my braking problems. Also it is a 350z forgot to mention that!
Hey iOG,
There is one more thing you could try: Push in all the caliper pistons using a c-clamp. This will force the brake fluid to move in the other direction, and MIGHT allow any trapped air to escape. Then try to bleed the system.
If you do change the master cylinder, make sure to prime it to remove all air. Attach short brake lines to it and loop them into the reservoir. Fill the reservoir and pump the master until all air is gone.
Good luck and let me know what happens.
@@MotorvateDIY Never heard of that c-clamp idea, that's actually pretty smart. Ya I plan to bench bleed the new master and then bleed the system again. Hopefully that fixes my issues. I'll let you know how it goes!
@@iog9644 So how did it go?
motorvate, did a brake upgrade on my 370Z (AKEBONO) I disconnected the ABS module before bleeding, Bled the whole system, and plugged it back. Now i am gettin Check engine, ABS, TPMS, ETC. on the dash. as well as no speedometer. I have tried the ECU reset, (On, wait 3 seconds, gas pedal 5 times, wait ten seconds) yada yada yada, still getting messages.Also, mine is a convertible and top will not open or close. ANY IDEAS? great video by the way!
Hey Russell Alvarez,
I do have an idea: The ABS connector is not properly or fully seated. This removes the ABS module from the CAN bus network and you get ABS, TPMS errors.
Unplug the ABS module and check for any bent or broken pins. If all is well, plug it in again and see if anything is different.
Good luck!
PS Thanks for your kind words on the video. I appreciate it!
Hi mr Motorvate DIY,
Do i have to set 70 inch-pound same as your videos clip showing.The torque wrench you showing me,i think is from
200 inch-1pound, so how can i set low from 70 inch-pound?
How often do I need to flush the break fluid?
Thank you very much for your time sir.
Hey Darton Nguyen, Here is an example of a torque wrench that is adjustable from 20-200 inch pounds a.co/dQ9XV5A
Something like that is what you should get.
How often should you change the brake fluid? I think every 2-3 years is good.
I hope this helps and good luck!
Appreciated for your time sir.
Do you really need to bleed the the vehicle when you replace the break pads? Hope i recieve your responce..
Hey Marco Martin Danlag,
There is no need to bleed the brake fluid when you change your brake pads.
BUT, you should change your brake fluid every 2 years or when the manufacture recommends.
This removes the water build up in the braking system, as brake fluid is designed to absorb any moisture in the braking system to reduce internal corrosion.
Thanks for the great vids. Wish you owned a Toyota Tundra so I could confidently get it up to speed.
Hey Tim,
Wow, thanks for your kind words!
I'm not much of a truck guy, so I can't see that happening any time soon.
Hi, I know you have instructions for a bleed time of 20-30 seconds at each caliper, but is there a visual way to tell that you have sufficiently bled the caliper? Thanks!
Hey PlayerZen14, depending on the type of brake fluid you use, you should be able to see a change in colour and then give it a few more bleed sequences. The old brake fluid normally turns darker in colour.
Good luck!
Thanks! Since I am replacing fairly fresh fluid with high temp fluid for HPDE purposes, I am worried it will be quite difficult to tell the new fluid vs. old fluid. When you say "bleed sequences", is each bleed sequence = one iteration of each corner? Thanks again for the video.
PlayerZen14, Sorry I should of defined "bleed sequence" better. It is when you (1) pump on the pedal 5 times and hold to the floor, (2) open the bleeder, (3) fluid flows out, (4) close the bleeder, (5) Lift the pedal.
I hope this helps!
Motorvate DIY a
Motorvate DIY Aaa
Just finished bleeding my brakes but when I turned my car on, all the ABS, Slip, VDC, Tire pressure and “key” light turned on. Any idea how to fix this?
It feels like it could be the ABS connector isn’t properly on. It still feels kind of loose when I wiggle it. Could this be it? Should the connector be tightly on there?
Hey Ian James,
Disconnect it, check for any bent pins and reconnect it.
Align the connector and push connector arm all the way down, as this locks the connector to the abs module.
Good luck!
@@MotorvateDIY Looks like i was right. It was just that the ABS connector was loose. After minutes of wiggling, I was able to push down the arm with a little bit of force (It didn't have this before) then connected itself. GREAT VIDEO! Would love to see more content with the G37. Earned yourself a subscriber
Hey Ian James,
That's good news... You fixed your problem and subscribed :)
Here is a teaser video of upcoming episodes:
ua-cam.com/video/rbOvh6rYV9k/v-deo.html
This guy should have way more subs
Hey Drew,
Thanks for the comment. Overall, I am very happy with the channel's performance. Since I focus on just the G37/370Z I don't have a large audience. and I am OK with that :)
I honestly value quality over quantity :)
@@MotorvateDIY That is a very good point! Keep killing it man always look forward to your videos
If the brake fluid is incorrectly bleed can that stop on on my calipers from working properly? My rear passenger caliber is pushing up against the rotor on the outside pad and won’t disengage now.
Hey David Guzman,
If the brakes are incorrectly bled, they don't work as well or at all.
In your case, it sounds like a caliper piston is sticking or the brake pad is seized (due to rust) to the caliper groove, where the brake pad "tab" sits in.
You should be able to move the brake pad easily with your hand, with the caliper removed.
If not, you need to file off the rust in the caliper groove (after you remove the shim) and file the rust off the brake pad "tab" that is at the top and bottom.
Please keep me up to date on your problem.
@@MotorvateDIY caliber was shot. Piston was sticking just like you said. Had my friend come over who is an actual mechanic and we bought a new caliper for the g37s off ebay and installed last night. Bled car again and bingo works perfectly. Thank you for your help and great video!
Hey David Guzman,
I'm glad you figured out the issue and fixed it. :)
I just upgraded my G35 with Akabono G37 brake calipers, but front two calipers both inside bleeder valves keep leakin does matter how tight it is so an option I have left is to delete both inside valves with some screw got from Homedepot. Now I able to only bleed the outside cylinder, after done bleeding when I step on the pedal couple time its stay hard n stiff BUT after like 10sec pedal turn soft again. I sure bleeded very well except the two valve that I cant bleed. you think I necessarily need to bleed those two also to make it work? plz anyone help I really appreciate it alot.
Hey DaVinn Em,
I think you do need to bleed the other side to make sure all the air is purged from the caliper.
You could try loosening the bolt 1-2 turns and get some one to press on the brake pedal and after 10-15 seconds tighten the bolt. There should be enough space between the treads to let out a little brake fluid and air when the bolt is loose. Repeat if the pedal is not firm.
However, I really would like to you find out why the factory bleeders are leaking. Make sure the end taper is not damaged.
Those "Home Depot" bolts are not automotive grade and will rust quickly and that just might mess up you new big brake kit.
Good luck!
Excellent video. Very thorough and easy to watch. Subscribed.
Glad to hear it! Thanks for subbing!
do i bleed before or after installing rotors and pads ?
It is nice to bleed before new pads and rotors, this way you don't push back old brake fluid into the system.
BUT it is also OK to change pads/rotors without bleeding. Just make sure to follow the manufactures schedule on changing brake fluid.
Oh, so the point of the pressure bleeder is so you don't have press the brakes at all during this? What if, accidentally, air does get into the system, what would be the procedure of removing it?
Hey RzVids,
You got it, the pressure bleeder makes it a one person job.
If air gets in the system, it can be tricky to get it all out with the multiple passages inside the ABS module. Some cars can use special software to run the ABS pump and cycle it while bleeding to ensure there isn't any air in the ABS module.
Now, if the car hasn't had the ignition turned on, there is a good chance a normal bleeding procedure will get out all the air. When the ignition is turned on, the ABS module may perform a self-test and allow the air to enter the ABS module.
As you can guess, you need to do EVERYTHING you can to keep the fluid level up while bleeding and you won't have to spend a lot more time trying to get the air out.
Motorvate DIY Can the same thing be done to flush the clutch fluid?
Hey RzVids,
I don't think so... the factory shop manual says:
"Do not use a vacuum assist or any other type of power bleeder on this system. Use of vacuum assist or power bleeder will not purge all the air from the system."
When you do bleed the clutch, be VERY careful and don't over tighten the clutch bleeder. If you do, there is a VERY GOOD chance it will snap the next time you try to loosen it.
The factory torque spec is 40 inch/lbs or 3 foot/lbs.
Can you explain your bleeding sequence please.
I always bleed rear right 1st rear left 2nd front right 3rd and front left last.
No good?
Hey e30M31989,
I just follow what the factory shop manual says.
Typically the longest brake line is bled first, then the next shortest, etc.
I really don't think it makes a difference, if you are just changing the brake fluid.
BUT the factory bleed sequence may be more important if you are trying to get air out of the system.
Thats ok. Sometimes the brake system is diagonally split with RR,LF then LR,RF. Some vehicles need to have a live system bleed using a diagnostic tool so if you have a fancy luxury vehicle try to find the service manual to be sure!
Can you put link to the gear (bleeding kit specific to g37)?
Well, that's weird.
I searched all over the internet looking for these plugs... it looks like they are no longer sold, as I can't find them anywhere. :(
fantastic videos man, love the ending about taking care of enviro as well
Hey Edumacation95,
Thanks for your kind words about the videos and proper disposal of fluids.
Excellent video, will definitely reference this when I install my Akebono brakes in March!
I am glad to help! By the way, I think you will love the Akebono brakes. I can not believe how well they work.
Motorvate DIY I went with Z1 slotted rotors, Z1 stainless steel lines, Hawk HPS 5.0 pads, and Motul RBF-600 fluids... It's gonna be a crazy difference over the stock brakes!
Those brake rotors are very nice and I really like it when the rotor hub is painted. They will look great.
Where did you get the rubber piece with the brass nipple to put in the master cylinder?
Hey Frank Murray,
It was purchased from a store in Toronto called Princess Auto and was called a
"pipe purge kit" and is not longer listed :(
You could try to modify a master cylinder cap (from a scrap yard) to do the same.
@@MotorvateDIY thank you sir, I appreciate your help.
Hi Motorvate DIY,
Do you know how many foot-pound to set for the torque wrench for Infiniti g37 x coupe 2013 Caliper bracket bolts?
I try to change all 4 of the rotor
Please help me out with this very appreciate.
Thank you very much for your time sir.
Darton, This is weird.... I spent 20 minutes trying to find the spec in the factory shop manual and couldn't find it. There wasn't even a section on how to replace the brake rotors, which would have the torque amount.
Maybe try searching with google or head over to my37.com.
Good Luck!
Hi Sir,
They may try to make people come to the dealership and get it done from them 😄.
Alright very appropriated for your help Sir.
Would it be the same device and bleeding procedure for a 2003 Infiniti G35 coupe?
Hey Frank Murray,
It took me a little bit of time to find the 2203 G35 factory shop manual...
BUT I did and here is the process:
Bleed air in the following order. Right rear brake → Left front brake → Left rear brake → Right front brake
1. Connect a transparent vinyl tube to bleed valve.
2. Fully depress brake pedal several times.
3. With brake pedal depressed, open bleed valve to release air.
4. Close bleed valve.
5. Release brake pedal slowly.
6. Repeat steps 2, through 5, until clear brake fluid comes out of bleed valve
So yes, it is the same :)
@@MotorvateDIY very much appreciated sir. I am going to try another device I found and hopefully it works well.
How many CC's is that syringe? Trying to find one similar to that one!
Hey Daniel P,
In looking online, it looks to be 60cc. (I loaned mine to a friend, other wise I would just look or measure the capacity)
Here is a link to it from amazon.com www.amazon.com/Hopkins-10111-FloTool-Mixmizer-Injector/dp/B000G72U0K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521078064&sr=8-1&keywords=mixmizer+syringe
You can also get a large syringe at any horse supply store.
Thanks a bunch! :)
Turkey baster from the kitchen works great. Just assign it the workshop when done. Returning to kitchen may not work out so well if your significant other finds out..... Motorvate, just Sub’d. Good stuff!
If you don't disconnect the abs what's could happen?
Hay Dr. Abe,
I really don't know... As I rule I don't try to figure out why the factory wants me to do something.
My guess it is prevents the ABS pump running by accident (I don't know how or why it would start) and pumping out all the brake fluid, leaving you with an ABS module full of air.
what is a good set of replacement rotors 2012 g37x
Suane, I still have the original rotors on my car, so I don't have any first hand experience. I do like the quality of Infiniti rotors, but they do cost more. Maybe pop over to my37.com and search around there...
Good luck!
whats the reservoir next to the one your working on? mine looks low.
(I am assuming your car is a 370 or G37)
That is the clutch fluid reservoir. If you car is more then 2-3 years old, I would change the clutch fluid as I did here:
ua-cam.com/video/DvOa0gPJN6Q/v-deo.html
At a minimum you should top it up to the "MAX" line using DOT3 brake fluid from an unopened bottle. Keep an eye on the level and if it continues to drop, there is a leak in the system and you should get it fixed before you can't disengage the clutch and need to call a tow truck.
Motorvate DIY thank you I'm working on my clutch now I'm pretty sure I need a new slave and clutch because it's slipping and reservoir is now empty!
If your reservoir is empty, I suspect your concentric slave cylinder (CSC) leaked onto your friction disk, causing it to slip.
You might want to also replace the clutch master cylinder. I am starting to suspect that if the return port gets partly blocked, it can over extend the CSC, cracking the metal sleeve and causing a leak.
Good luck on your repair.
Man your the best u save us g37 boys a lot of money
Hey Mccoy Henry,
That's great to hear!
I really like how a little knowledge learned though watching a video, can help people save money and learn something.
Anyways, I need to get back to editing the next episode :)
Thanks, I'm going to do this on my 2016 370z.
Hey cotes42,
It looks like your Z will soon be in TOP condition!
Motorvate DIY Question I got 45K mile on my 2015 Q40 Which is basically a G37 should I change my brake fluid, what do you recommend on the maintenance fluid wise,
Hey Da, Taper,
In the factory shop manual, the Maintenance section shows it should be changed every 2 years.
I think that is too often and change mine every 4 years.
Hi, its really amazing how you can DIY everything to do this. Just one simple question, what's the size of wrench for the bleeding valve? Thank you
Hey 瑞哲何,
That's a good memory testing question! The video was shot in July 2016.
I think the front calipers were 8mm and the rear was 6mm.
Thank you for replying so quick. Also I have checked out your old videos regarding G37S. They are great and they are amazingly helpful for a beginner like me who is trying to work on my own car... Have a good day sir
Hey 瑞哲何,
Thanks for your kind words!
Do an online search to find the Infiniti shop manual.... then do some reading. This will give you a good understand of how to fix your car.
Good Luck!
Actually, I have never done anything on my car before and after watching many of your videos, I got inspired and started working on my own car. It's great that we have the (almost) exactly same car so I can literally copy your steps. Just a quick question. If I can't afford both wrenches and sockets, should I get a full set of wrenches or a full set of sockets? Thank you for applying for me the whole time
I am glad you are doing your own work. Make sure to take your time and think about what you are doing.
It can be easy to break something when you don't understand how it comes apart.
I think a socket is is the better purchase. Almost all the DIY work can be done with just a socket set and it is quicker then wrenches.
Why did you have to unhook the ABS module?
It stops any chance of the ABS module doing anything like a pump motor self test.
It probably isn't critical, but since the factory shop manual mentions it and since it is easy to get to, why not?
@@MotorvateDIY gotcha just wondering, cuz I didn’t do that
@@MotorvateDIY I ended up sucking the fluid down through each caliper with a vacuum pump, same concept
Agreed... there is more than one way to do this... the important thing is just to do it every 2-5 years :)
Can I do it without pressure?
Hey Loser Channel,
Yes you can, but you will need someone else to carefully listen to you.
Here is the sequence:
(1) Ask the helper to press the brake pedal (medium force)
(2) Open a bleeder. (make sure there is a hose to direct it into a bottle. I like to use a clear vinyl tube to see the brake fluid colour)
(3) You will see the brake fluid flow into the bottle and stop. Once it has stopped the brake pedal will be touching the floor.
(4) Close the bleeder.
(5) Ask the helper to slowly lift their foot off the brake pedal and the pedal will rise.
(6) go back to step 1
While doing this it is CRITICAL to keep an eye on the brake fluid level. Don't let it get too far below the minimum line on the master cylinder or air can get sucked into the brake system and it can be very difficult to get it out. This results in a "spongy" or "soft" brake feel.
Good luck!
When do you need to replace brake line hoses?
A good quality flair wrench to loosen the hose fitting.
@@MotorvateDIY oh I meant the hose line where brake fluid goes in and out to the caliper!
Simply loosen the bolt that connects it to the caliper.
@@MotorvateDIY hmm i meant when do you have to replace it?
Sorry, I mis-read you question a few times!!
Generally, if you can see cracks in the rubber brake hose, it is time to replace it.
Don't you have to pump the brakes to get more of the fluid out?
Hey Jonathan Dinh,
No really. Since the master cylinder is slightly pressurized, there is not need to pump the brakes.
If the master cylinder was not pressurized by the pump, then you would have to pump the brakes and get a helper.
can you make a video on how to remove the brake calipers safely ( I'm trying to take off the calipers so I can paint them)
Thanks
Hey Edumacation95,
It is on the production schedule for later this year, or early next spring.
Since the last track day (Episode 20) was not too kind to the stock brake pads, I am planning to install new rotors and track capable brake pads.
thanks mate!
The fronts are super easy cause you can turn the wheel outward and it's only 2 bolts that you can hit them with a impact wrench. The rear is a little harder cause you have suspension parts in your way and you have no room for the impact wrench.
What if I can’t get the filter out?
I guess you have 2 options: Keep trying or just bleed the brakes more.
Work with coupe?
If you have the same "sport brakes" it is the same.
Otherwise the overall process is the same but you will only see one bleeder per caliper.
@Motorvate DIY thank u very much!
VERY well made video, thanks!
Thank you Sparky! This video was shot with 3 cameras over two days in my garage. Then just over 40 hours of editing to accomplish one goal: Short & Sweet. (Hmm, that may be 2 goals) :)
Well it definitely shows!
What does disconnecting the ABS module do?
Hey Kenny Nguyen,
It prevents the ABS pump from running and ensures all the internal valves are in the "powered down" position.
Do you really need to do that? I don't think so.
Do I want to find out what happens if I don't? Nope :)
Motorvate DIY is it possible to use the pump method (pressing on the brakes) instead of pressurizing the master cylinder?
Hey Kenny Nguyen,
Yes the pump method will also work, as long as can find a helper.
Motorvate DIY great! Thank you for the prompt responses
Very nicely done!
Thank you very much! I am now editing the Stillen cat-back exhaust dyno video. :)
Motorvate's DIY Garage Cant wait! You sold me on the k&n filters
Splendid presentation
Hey joquin tatum,
Thanks for your kind words! I have the next 5 episodes outlined and will be shooting video this weekend :)
Great explanation!
Hey Daniel Wong,
Thanks!
Amazing!! Thanks for this!!!
You are very welcome!
How come you don't have anybody pumping the brakes?
Hey 19hundred Block,
Good question! I am using a "garden sprayer" to slightly pressurize the master cylinder. Then, when a bleeder is open, the brake fluid flows out.
With this setup, you can do it by yourself. When I say Motorvate DIY garage, I mean it: Doing it yourself :)
So 20-30 seconds for each bleeder ?
That should be good, just make sure to keep an eye on the brake fluid level. You don't want air in the ABS module.
Would you do this for me if I paid you? I live in Toronto
Hey Jashan Swaich,
Thanks for asking, but since I'm not a licensed mechanic I only work on my own cars.
Can I just have the car running instead of unplugging the abs?
Hey Dark Haze,
The reason the factory shop manual wants the ABS module unplugged it to make sure the ABS internal valves are in the correct position and to prevent any chance of the module from activating.
Since the ABS module is fairly easy to unplug, I think that is the best option.
Thanks for your comment :)
Cool
Glad you liked it!
Gravity bleed! The only expense is brake fluid! Do this only after new brake installs so that your master isnt full when the brake pads are low!
Hey Ah Umm,
Gravity bleeding is an option, but I like the idea of the fluid being pushed out under slight pressure.
I don't think it matter how the fluid is changed, as long as it gets done every 2-3 years.
1,3,4,2
Hey 社长x,
I'm not sure what you mean... Can you tell me more?
great video
Hey L Thomas,
Thanks :)
Thanks again
Sorry, didn't see this until today, but you are very welcome :)
This is one of those things where if you don't have a garage you might just want to pay a shop you trust. Just bring your own fluid. Bleeding brakes is no fun at all with bugs on the ground and the sun on your neck.
Hey cooldaddyslick,
Yup, working on a car outside is no fun!
i swear his breaking fluid is still new
Maybe the camera didn't catch it well, but is was much darker!
As a matter of fact, I will be doing this again in the late spring to keep the brakes in top shape :)
NICE VIDEO
Hey nick bercea,
Thanks!