Hey joquin tatum, You are very welcome... The 6 MT is a great car to drive, but not in traffic -> "It is more fun to drive a slow car fast, than a fast car slow"
I love your videos! Only thing I hope for is that you would include the sub models it will work with or let us know if it closely resembles it. You can edit older videos to have it under the Video info section. I have a journey coupe. Thanks for the vids!! Subbed.
Hey Dylan, Thanks for the feedback. I do mention what sub model the video is for in the video title, but it may not be very clear. I will add the what models it applies to and what model it does not apply in the video description. For now, any title that shows G37S, is for the rear wheel drive G37 with the sport package. If the title shows G37, the video should apply to G37 Journey, G37x and G37xS. Thanks for subscribing!
Thank you for such a detailed step by step video of how to do the pad replacement. I am going to change my rear pads myself for the first time this weekend on my g3 7s and was a little nervous because I have never done this type before but this made me totally confident that I can do it properly if I follow your process in this video. My only question is is there any reason to disconnect power to my battery before doing this?
Hey ianriggs, There is no need to disconnect the battery. I'm glad you were able to change your brake pads. I'm sure you will agree it is fairly easy when you have the sport brakes :)
@@MotorvateDIY I actually didn't get mine done. I got the first wheel off and realized I really need rotors too 🤬 my a hole dealership machined my stock rotors a few months ago so I assumed they would b fine for a while longer but they machined them with chunks missing from the outer edge near the cooling vanes and didnt tell me they needed to be replaced
@@Reply_if_you_gay Hey Blue Spider, Do your best to wipe up the brake fluid and spray the area with brake cleaner. Brake fluid can dissolve paint, so you want to remove it as quickly as possible. Next time, keep an eye on the brake fluid level while pushing in the caliper pistons and it it gets to high, use a turkey baster to remove some fluid. Good luck!
@@Reply_if_you_gay Generally there is no need to bleed the brakes after changing brake pads. BUT, if your have the tools you can change your brake fluid: Changing Brake Fluid: G37 Sport / 370Z - Motorvate's DIY Garage Ep. 10 ua-cam.com/video/s_0CSMzK1aI/v-deo.html
Motorvate DIY Hi wanted to start by saying I think your videos are phenomenal. I just picked up a 09 g37x coupe and I was wondering if your vids would work for my car. Specifically the brakes and the exhaust tutorials?
Hey Gary, Thanks for the kind words! Somethings are exactly the same and some are different. Here is a short list of some of the differences I am aware of: - Your brakes are VERY different (sliding caliper vs fixed caliper) - I am 98% sure the exhaust removal / install would be the same. - The lower engine cover may have a "door" that you can use to get access to the oil pan drain plug - Your oil filter is in the same area, but it points to the front of the car - Rear differential oil change should be the same
When the brake pedal is not being pressed, it allows fluid to pass from the brake lines to the brake fluid reservoir. So...anytime you press in the the caliper piston, you need to keep an eye on the brake fluid level. As the piston is pushed in, the level rises.
Thanks for the video! I've got one question - if I want just to inspect the brake pads, can I reuse the locking pin while taking off the metal plate from the caliper?
Hey RAymond Diep, I don't, BUT the rotors must not have deep groves. You will need to drive with a little extra space for braking, as it will take a few stops for the pad to conform to the full surface of the rotor.
I just followed step for step this video and some other excellent videos, and now my car veers pretty hard to the right lol. Any idea what's wrong? Is a caliper sticking ?
Hey 2A Philosophy, Soooo, you watch other videos and now you want my help? :) Here is a list of items to check with the car on jack stands and the wheels off: (1) Make sure the pad friction surface and rotor are 100% clean and don't have any grease. This can make the brakes grab and pull to one side. (2) Make sure you can wiggle (side to side) the pads a little. This ensures they are not binding in the caliper. (3) Push on the brake pedal, release and try to turn the rotor by hand. Have a close look and see if the pads are sticking or of the caliper pistons are not retracting. It shouldn't be too difficult to figure out... Good luck!
As a q50s owner I love your videos since there aren’t many q50 vloggers! My car has the same brake system so I was wondering after watching your video does the g37s also have ABS? I’ve read online that cars with ABS should be careful when compressing the pistons back in as it will push dirty fluid into the sensors and damage them. Do you know if this is the case for our cars?
Hey jonathan kim, Thanks for your kinds words! (and I need to make a point to add "Q40 and Q50" tags when it applies) That's a very good question! Yes the G37 has ABS, and as a quick side note, just about every car made since about 2005 comes standard with ABS. The brake system is sealed and dirt really can't get into the brake fluid. The brake fluid may turn a darker color over time which is normal. When the caliper pistons are pushed back in the fluid does travel about 6-12" up the brake line, which doesn't matter since it isn't contaminated. As for "push dirty fluid into the sensors and damage them" the closest sensor would be a pressure sensor connected to the ABS module. BUT that is at least about 4' away from the closest wheel. So to wrap up: There is no dirt in the brake fluid and even if there was, the closest sensor is too far away to get dirty. If you are worried about your brake fluid condition just change it: ua-cam.com/video/s_0CSMzK1aI/v-deo.html Enjoy your Q50S :)
That's a good thought to have. Here's why: Different types of rear brakes have a different methods for a parking brake. The G37 with the sport brake package use a smaller "brake shoe" system inside the brake disk hub. This means it is safe to push in the caliper pistons. Other types of rear brakes require a special tool to "screw in" the caliper piston to retract it. This is where you need to understand what you are working on and follow the correct steps, or you can break parts.
Hey Aziz Peers, Great idea! If I can't find a non-sport G37, I can show how to do the brakes on a Subaru Forester. Most Japanese made cars have very similar brakes, a 2 pin sliding caliper. I will add that to the production schedule for this year.
Motorvate DIY Can you make a behind the scene video please? As I would like to do similar videos, but not sure how to make such a great videos like yours! :) thanks
Hey Aziz Peers, When the grease dries up on the caliper pins, the caliper can't slide to accommodate for pad wear. Then the pads wear on a taper, or one pad wears much faster than the other. Using black moly grease on the caliper pins and pad contact points solves this problem. I have been doing my brakes (and friends and family brakes) for 36 years and have tried different greases. The black "moly" grease works the best.
Hey Aziz Peers, Yes, I can make a "behind the scenes' video. BUT I need to continue to work on content for this spring and summer. I hope to have something out by the end of this year. Until then, let me share with you my setup: - Two GoPro Hero 4 Black, shooting in 2.7K @ 60FPS - Canon 70D SLR with 10-18mm lens (wide angle for introductions) - Tascam 60D mark II, 24bit audio recorder - Audio-Technica’s 1800 Series wireless mics and receiver connected to Tascam - 12" x 12" LED lights on stands (two) Plan everything you want shoot. Use a storyboard to visualize it so you have all the content you need in a flowing order. Plan on spending about 15 minutes for every minute of script. (Yes, everything is scripted so I stay on point and don't ramble on....) Shoot multiple takes. This gives you options when editing. Generally the last few take are the better ones. It is not easy to talk to a camera lens! (Well, not for me) I use Adobe Premiere Pro to edit the video/color correct/color grade, Adobe Audion to edit the audio, and After Effects for on screen graphics. The editing takes anywhere from 30 - 80 hours for a 3-4 minute episode. The "$20 Differential Bushing Fix: Motorvate's DIY Garage Ep.23" took a total of about 82 hours in scripting, shooting, and editing. Add another 20 for research. The single most important thing to remember about video is: Good video must have EXCELLENT audio. In a nutshell, start with what gear you have, and review everything you do with an attitude of "How can I do that better?" and then do it again. Right now on youtube, well shot and editing video is an advantage and you will standout.
Hey Joseph Merigold, Thanks for your kind words! The rotors on my car are 10 years old and have 110,000 miles on them... so they are due for replacement soon - then I can shoot and make an episode.
Hey Joseph Merigold, I have never used slotted rotors, so I can't recommend one brand. I assume that you are aware that for driving on the street, slotted or drilled rotors are just for looks. There is no increase in performance and they may wear the pads a little quicker due to the wiping action of the slot or holes. Maybe pop over to myg37.com and see what others have used and liked.
Joseph, sorry but your brakes are different. The G37 Journey has the typical single piston sliding caliper. However, in the spring I will be doing a "Brake Reconditioning" video on a Subaru Forester, which is almost exactly the same.
Hey Jonathan Dinh, I don't think so... and to be completely honest, I never have. Now, that means the brakes won't be 100% effective until the new pads conform to the old rotors. Just take it easy for about the first while and you should be fine.
Hey ianriggs, I suspect your pins are the original Infiniti parts. The previous owner of my car used inexpensive replacement pads which probably came with a "universal" type pin that fits multiple cars. You don't have anything to worry about :)
Hey RzVids, As the brake pads wear, the brake fluid level drops. Sometime the rapid lube shops like to "top up" the brake fluid. After a while, when you need to replace your brake pads you push in the brake caliper pistons. If the brake fluid has been topped up, there is a VERY GOOD change brake fluid will spill out of the brake master cylinder and start to eat the paint. So, keep an eye on the brake fluid level when you push the brake caliper pistons back in :)
Joseph, just to be clear the shims don't come with the factory pads. Normally you can reuse the shims that are on the car, but in my case the previous owner threw them away and I had to buy new ones. Good luck on your brake job!
Motorvate DIY old pads were Wagner thermoquiet. Better than oem pads, they use those built in shims that conform to the piston for quiet braking. Should have gone with those! Oem is meh when it comes to pads.
Hey nemisans13, For me, I like the OEM pads for the street. They seem to have minimal wear on the rotor and give good braking feel and almost ZERO brake dust. (unlike my BMW 530, OEM pads make CRAZY amount of dust) The Wagner ThermoQuiet pads seem to be very similar to OEM, other than the shims. By the way, the brake shims are a "thermal barrier" to reduce how much heat travels from the brake pad backing plate to the caliper piston. I didn't really notice any braking difference after I put back OEM pads, but the rear brakes don't work as hard as the front. As with many things..... use what works for you :)
Hey Nic D, Hmmm, I think it would work for a while. Anti seize paste does dry out after a few months and it might squeak then. There is not harm in trying it an let me know how you make out :)
Got a question for ya. I noticed the other morning my 370 started this vibrating type of feeling from the back passenger wheel. It kinda felt like it was going flat but it wasn't. So i got home and noticed about a weeks worth of brake dust on my wheel (it was just washed the day before) so i took it for another quick ride and it didnt do it. Well not till after it heated up. About 5 minutes of continuous driving then it came back. So it only does it when it's hot. Im gonna pull tge tire today but do you have any ideas that'll maybe explain this? You and your videos are always helpfull i just wanted to ask you about it. Thanks👍
Well i jacked the car up and sure enough the back passenger brake was dragging bad. However all i did was pop 1 of the bolts on the caliper loose and it snapped into place?? The bolts were way to tight so couldve it just been binded up from that? Im gonna drive it and not use the e-brake when i park. Ill just park on flat areas at my house. If it dont bind up I'll start useing the e-brake again and see if it does after that. I'll let you know how it plays out. You never know maybe it'll help someone else with the same issue.
Hey Waugy 370z, (I assume you have the sport brakes on your 370) If you have a lot of brake dust on the wheel, it sounds like the brake pad is not able to move smoothly a little left and right in the caliper. This can be due to rust buildup on the pad edges that contact the caliper, or uneven pad wear resulting in a taper and the pad get stuck on a small angle and gets locked into position. I assume the bolt you loosened is the one that holds the caliper to the hub area? If it "snapped back" it sure sounds like it got stuck, as mentioned above. Remove the caliper pins, and see how easily the pads can be removed. They should slide out with very little force. The brake pad thickness should be the same on the inner and outer pads. If one pad has less depth, that is the one that is sticking. I don't think it is the ebrake. It is uses a "brake shoe" type and all dust (well, almost all) would stay inside the built in brake drum in the rear rotor. Please let me know what you find :)
Well so far so good👍 i dont know why it was hung up like that? But it really popped loose the instant the top caliper bolt came loose. So I dont know what happened to get it stuck?? I lubed up posts that the caliper slides on and its fine. And i haven't had to jam the brakes to stop quick either. I dont yank the hell out of the e-brake neither. ???????
Hey Waugy 370z, It sounds like all is well now. Keep an eye on the dust in the wheel AND compare the rear brake rotor temp by touching it on the left and right side. They should be about the same :)
You are welcome! I hope they are helpful to you. A new episode will be released every second Friday. Next episode is "How to change brake fluid" and will be released Dec 9th.
Hey Abraham Colon, On the G37 with the sport brakes, the front and rear seem to wear about the same. However, on other cars, it is common for the rear pads to wear faster than the front. I think this is due to rear brakes being smaller and vehicle stability system often brake the rear to keep the car on its intended path.
You put the pins in backwards. It's suppose to be long end facing the inside of the car. It doesn't effect anything it's just aesthetics but there your not perfect.
Hey Crusher103, Thanks for your comment. After reading it, I went and double checked the factory shop manual. It shows long end facing outside. However, as you said, it really doesn't matter other than your way looks little nicer.
Hey Dee Jay, Not really, but I back into my garage. If your brakes squeak, try applying a thin coat of a moly (molybdenum disulfide) grease to both sides of the shim and the back of the pads. That should stop the squeak.
Gosh I've tried 3 types of lube including moly and it still squeals. I changed out the pads to Akebono ProAct and it was even worse than stock! Seems like only certain sport brakes have this issue.
Only when it's cold, going in reverse, with light brake pedal application. Dealer said he could clean out the dust and sand the pads but said the squeal would return soon....
The only other thing I can think of is the rotor, is there a 1/16" lip around the outside edge of the rotor? If your rotors are worn, that lip might be causing the squeak.
It depends on the rear caliper design. Some use the caliper piston for the parking brake (and those need to be screwed in) , and others have an internal drum brake for the parking brake.
Hey Troy Sanchez, Nope :( The base (or non-sport) G37 has a different type of brake caliper called a "floating caliper". This allows the caliper for move (or float) on 2 large "pins" as the pads wear. The sport brakes use a fixed caliper, that is bolted to the steering hub. The caliper pistons will simply extend out to compensate for pad wear. In the spring I am planning on doing an episode of how to change pads on the non-sport G37s.
Hmmm, then I would suspect the caliper pistons are not retracting, or if you have the non-sport brakes, the caliper might be hung up on the caliper pins.
Hey Aziz Peers, Excellent question! If you use a black "moly" type of grease, it never really dries and doesn't get sticky like glue. I have used that grease on all of my cars brake jobs for about the last 10+ years. Nothing get stuck and nothing squeaks.
Motorvate DIY Hi! Thanks for a great videos! I really enjoy them! I had that kind of grease in the kit with my Lexus shim kit. And the liquid type of thing in the little bag (like yours) became like a glue in a few minutes... so I applied it only on the back of the pads
I need to fix my brake asap, I took it to my mechanic and he said front and rear brakes have about 60% life left on them but my rear brakes are squealing everytime I brake especially in low speeds and reverse, I don't know if disassembling it, cleaning and greasing will take care of the brake squeal or should I just buy new pads altogether and grease them? also can you send me a link of the shims you used. thanks
Hey Tofuu YAYA, Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. If the rear pads are squealing, I would remove them and sand down the brake surface of the pad with 60-80 git emery cloth sandpaper. Just put the sandpaper on a flat surface and push/pull the pad back and forth for 30ish seconds. This will remove any glaze that may of built up. Then when re-assembling, use a think coat of a black moly grease between the pads & shim, and shim & brake caliper piston. The shims I used are the Infiniti shims that you can get at the dealer. Good luck!
I've owned an 08' coupe S and currently a 2011 coupe S. Both times when I changed the pads/rotors the pins were always flush and that was with OEM pads and rotors from factory(Akebono), and the hardware that came with the new pads I bought(Power Stop Z23's) had the exact same size pins and clips as the old ones. Either way it's not like it will decrease performance with longer pins but I've just never seen it. Also I still can't believe the power increase with the K&N filters! Compared to the old engine's (VQ35DE) single intake, our new dual intake system increases air intake volume by I believe 13% Nissan says.
Hey sk8punk318, Nope. As I see it, there is no need. Why shave away metal making the rotors thinner when they are not warped and don't have a thickness variation. The new pads will seat or bed just fine on the used rotors.
Perfect camera angles! Never changed my brakes myself and this showed me everything i need to know. You just got a subscriber!
Hey Osbourne Heron,
Thanks for your kind words and I am glad you found the video helpful.
AND a big thank you for subscribing!!
Excellent tutorial! Best I’ve ever seen actually for anything auto related, no joke.
Thank you for your kind words! I'm hope it helped you.
Best videos on UA-cam on how to replace the Akebono BBK (Big Brake Kit) for these Infinitis on youtube!!!
Thank you!
That was easy. You don't even have to remove the calipers to change the pads. Great video. 2 Thumbs Up!
Hey JB Hix,
Infiniti couldn't make it any easier :)
Thanks for your kind words on the video.
Your the man thanks 4 valuable content...all way from g37 6mt sedan in N.Y.C
Hey joquin tatum,
You are very welcome... The 6 MT is a great car to drive, but not in traffic -> "It is more fun to drive a slow car fast, than a fast car slow"
Motorvate DIY yes sir..u got fcebook or instagram....for car content purpose not personal ?
Hey joquin tatum,
My main focus is youtube right now. Instagram and Facebook may follow later.
I love akebono. Im glad they made it so easy
Me too! The easiest and quickest brake pad replacement!!
I love your videos! Only thing I hope for is that you would include the sub models it will work with or let us know if it closely resembles it. You can edit older videos to have it under the Video info section. I have a journey coupe. Thanks for the vids!! Subbed.
Hey Dylan,
Thanks for the feedback.
I do mention what sub model the video is for in the video title, but it may not be very clear.
I will add the what models it applies to and what model it does not apply in the video description.
For now, any title that shows G37S, is for the rear wheel drive G37 with the sport package.
If the title shows G37, the video should apply to G37 Journey, G37x and G37xS.
Thanks for subscribing!
Thank you for such a detailed step by step video of how to do the pad replacement. I am going to change my rear pads myself for the first time this weekend on my g3 7s and was a little nervous because I have never done this type before but this made me totally confident that I can do it properly if I follow your process in this video. My only question is is there any reason to disconnect power to my battery before doing this?
Hey ianriggs,
There is no need to disconnect the battery.
I'm glad you were able to change your brake pads. I'm sure you will agree it is fairly easy when you have the sport brakes :)
@@MotorvateDIY I actually didn't get mine done. I got the first wheel off and realized I really need rotors too 🤬 my a hole dealership machined my stock rotors a few months ago so I assumed they would b fine for a while longer but they machined them with chunks missing from the outer edge near the cooling vanes and didnt tell me they needed to be replaced
Love you videos they are definitely helpful 🙏🏽❤️ quick question tho : do you need to flush your brakes after changing the pads ?
No need. BUT flushing your brake fluid every 2-5 years will keep everything inside the braking system happy!
Wow great video. Clear and precise, I'm doing my 370 Z today and your video just saved my hundreds of $! Thanx!!!
Hey skywalk3x,
Thank you! I am glad you found that episode helpful.
When you push the pistons in and the fluid overflows in reservoir what do you do?
@@Reply_if_you_gay Hey Blue Spider, Do your best to wipe up the brake fluid and spray the area with brake cleaner. Brake fluid can dissolve paint, so you want to remove it as quickly as possible.
Next time, keep an eye on the brake fluid level while pushing in the caliper pistons and it it gets to high, use a turkey baster to remove some fluid. Good luck!
Motorvate DIY alright thanks haha so do I have to bleed out the brake fluid afterwards and put new one in?
@@Reply_if_you_gay Generally there is no need to bleed the brakes after changing brake pads.
BUT, if your have the tools you can change your brake fluid:
Changing Brake Fluid: G37 Sport / 370Z - Motorvate's DIY Garage Ep. 10
ua-cam.com/video/s_0CSMzK1aI/v-deo.html
Great videos! I have a g as well and your videos provide lots of help. please keep them comin!
Thanks for your comment and there are many more episodes to come.
Motorvate DIY Hi wanted to start by saying I think your videos are phenomenal. I just picked up a 09 g37x coupe and I was wondering if your vids would work for my car. Specifically the brakes and the exhaust tutorials?
Hey Gary,
Thanks for the kind words!
Somethings are exactly the same and some are different. Here is a short list of some of the differences I am aware of:
- Your brakes are VERY different (sliding caliper vs fixed caliper)
- I am 98% sure the exhaust removal / install would be the same.
- The lower engine cover may have a "door" that you can use to get access to the oil pan drain plug
- Your oil filter is in the same area, but it points to the front of the car
- Rear differential oil change should be the same
My question is how do you prevent from breaking the brake master cylinder? Just take the cap off incase pressure builds?
When the brake pedal is not being pressed, it allows fluid to pass from the brake lines to the brake fluid reservoir.
So...anytime you press in the the caliper piston, you need to keep an eye on the brake fluid level. As the piston is pushed in, the level rises.
Thanks for the video! I've got one question - if I want just to inspect the brake pads, can I reuse the locking pin while taking off the metal plate from the caliper?
If they are in good condition (only surface rust) then you can re-use them.
Excellent video
Thanks for your kind words!
Very very helpful video, do you have a video showing how to replace de brake rotors?
not yet... even after 109,000 miles they are still good. BUT when they are replaced, there will be an episode on that :)
I need to change my brakes asap. Don't you need to resurface your rotors when you change your brake pads?
Hey RAymond Diep,
I don't, BUT the rotors must not have deep groves.
You will need to drive with a little extra space for braking, as it will take a few stops for the pad to conform to the full surface of the rotor.
Very helpful D.I.Y. Saw your post on MYG37 Forum and you have a new subscriber :D
I'm glad you found it helpful and thanks for subscribing!
Me 2
Hey CRIPPYMAN,
Thanks!
Great job. Question. Are the pins the same for top and bottom ? Also same question for the front brakes.
Yes they are
I just followed step for step this video and some other excellent videos, and now my car veers pretty hard to the right lol. Any idea what's wrong? Is a caliper sticking ?
Hey 2A Philosophy,
Soooo, you watch other videos and now you want my help? :)
Here is a list of items to check with the car on jack stands and the wheels off:
(1) Make sure the pad friction surface and rotor are 100% clean and don't have any grease. This can make the brakes grab and pull to one side.
(2) Make sure you can wiggle (side to side) the pads a little. This ensures they are not binding in the caliper.
(3) Push on the brake pedal, release and try to turn the rotor by hand. Have a close look and see if the pads are sticking or of the caliper pistons are not retracting.
It shouldn't be too difficult to figure out... Good luck!
@@MotorvateDIY It went away after my second drive, thankfully. Thanks for the response!
As a q50s owner I love your videos since there aren’t many q50 vloggers!
My car has the same brake system so I was wondering after watching your video does the g37s also have ABS? I’ve read online that cars with ABS should be careful when compressing the pistons back in as it will push dirty fluid into the sensors and damage them. Do you know if this is the case for our cars?
Hey jonathan kim,
Thanks for your kinds words! (and I need to make a point to add "Q40 and Q50" tags when it applies)
That's a very good question!
Yes the G37 has ABS, and as a quick side note, just about every car made since about 2005 comes standard with ABS.
The brake system is sealed and dirt really can't get into the brake fluid. The brake fluid may turn a darker color over time which is normal.
When the caliper pistons are pushed back in the fluid does travel about 6-12" up the brake line, which doesn't matter since it isn't contaminated.
As for "push dirty fluid into the sensors and damage them" the closest sensor would be a pressure sensor connected to the ABS module. BUT that is at least about 4' away from the closest wheel.
So to wrap up:
There is no dirt in the brake fluid and even if there was, the closest sensor is too far away to get dirty.
If you are worried about your brake fluid condition just change it: ua-cam.com/video/s_0CSMzK1aI/v-deo.html
Enjoy your Q50S :)
I’m afraid if I press in the caliper my brake master cylinder is going to break. How do I prevent this
That's a good thought to have. Here's why:
Different types of rear brakes have a different methods for a parking brake.
The G37 with the sport brake package use a smaller "brake shoe" system inside the brake disk hub. This means it is safe to push in the caliper pistons.
Other types of rear brakes require a special tool to "screw in" the caliper piston to retract it.
This is where you need to understand what you are working on and follow the correct steps, or you can break parts.
Your calipers are great! How about making a video about normal calipers with the pins that get stuck overtime..
thanks
Hey Aziz Peers,
Great idea! If I can't find a non-sport G37, I can show how to do the brakes on a Subaru Forester. Most Japanese made cars have very similar brakes, a 2 pin sliding caliper.
I will add that to the production schedule for this year.
Motorvate DIY great idea! Would be great! As I did it to my Lexus gs300 recently.. as those pins were causing a brake pads to wear out quickly
Motorvate DIY Can you make a behind the scene video please? As I would like to do similar videos, but not sure how to make such a great videos like yours! :) thanks
Hey Aziz Peers,
When the grease dries up on the caliper pins, the caliper can't slide to accommodate for pad wear. Then the pads wear on a taper, or one pad wears much faster than the other.
Using black moly grease on the caliper pins and pad contact points solves this problem.
I have been doing my brakes (and friends and family brakes) for 36 years and have tried different greases. The black "moly" grease works the best.
Hey Aziz Peers,
Yes, I can make a "behind the scenes' video. BUT I need to continue to work on content for this spring and summer.
I hope to have something out by the end of this year.
Until then, let me share with you my setup:
- Two GoPro Hero 4 Black, shooting in 2.7K @ 60FPS
- Canon 70D SLR with 10-18mm lens (wide angle for introductions)
- Tascam 60D mark II, 24bit audio recorder
- Audio-Technica’s 1800 Series wireless mics and receiver connected to Tascam
- 12" x 12" LED lights on stands (two)
Plan everything you want shoot. Use a storyboard to visualize it so you have all the content you need in a flowing order.
Plan on spending about 15 minutes for every minute of script. (Yes, everything is scripted so I stay on point and don't ramble on....)
Shoot multiple takes. This gives you options when editing. Generally the last few take are the better ones. It is not easy to talk to a camera lens! (Well, not for me)
I use Adobe Premiere Pro to edit the video/color correct/color grade, Adobe Audion to edit the audio, and After Effects for on screen graphics.
The editing takes anywhere from 30 - 80 hours for a 3-4 minute episode. The "$20 Differential Bushing Fix: Motorvate's DIY Garage Ep.23" took a total of about 82 hours in scripting, shooting, and editing. Add another 20 for research.
The single most important thing to remember about video is:
Good video must have EXCELLENT audio.
In a nutshell, start with what gear you have, and review everything you do with an attitude of "How can I do that better?" and then do it again.
Right now on youtube, well shot and editing video is an advantage and you will standout.
fantastic. how do i find your videos to change both front and rear rotors thx you
Hey Joseph Merigold,
Thanks for your kind words!
The rotors on my car are 10 years old and have 110,000 miles on them... so they are due for replacement soon - then I can shoot and make an episode.
Very informative! Just subscribed, good job dude !
Hey Awdray37,
Thanks for your kind words and for subscribing. I've got some very interesting episodes in pre-production right now :)
also, my son being 18 wants slotted rotors. any kind you would recommend
Hey Joseph Merigold,
I have never used slotted rotors, so I can't recommend one brand.
I assume that you are aware that for driving on the street, slotted or drilled rotors are just for looks. There is no increase in performance and they may wear the pads a little quicker due to the wiping action of the slot or holes.
Maybe pop over to myg37.com and see what others have used and liked.
Is this the same setup for my 2010 infinity g37 sedan journey?
Joseph, sorry but your brakes are different. The G37 Journey has the typical single piston sliding caliper.
However, in the spring I will be doing a "Brake Reconditioning" video on a Subaru Forester, which is almost exactly the same.
Very nice and helpful video
Hey MoneyMakingPerfect,
Thanks for your kind words!
As you now know, the sport brakes are really easy (and quick!!) to replace.
Is it necessary to resurface the rear rotors when changing the pads?
Hey Jonathan Dinh,
I don't think so... and to be completely honest, I never have.
Now, that means the brakes won't be 100% effective until the new pads conform to the old rotors. Just take it easy for about the first while and you should be fine.
Great video! Do you have a link to the shims you bought I'm also in Canada
I just went to the local Infiniti dealer and picked them up. They were $65 and in stock. The part number is: D4080 JL00A.
Motorvate's DIY Garage thanks!
My pins dont stick out at all on my back calipers like yours do in the front. Is that normal?
Hey ianriggs,
I suspect your pins are the original Infiniti parts. The previous owner of my car used inexpensive replacement pads which probably came with a "universal" type pin that fits multiple cars.
You don't have anything to worry about :)
great job !
Hey bluesky9320,
Thanks! I hope everything went well :)
Why follow the shop manual when I have this video! ;D
Also, why would I need to check the brake fluid?
Hey RzVids,
As the brake pads wear, the brake fluid level drops. Sometime the rapid lube shops like to "top up" the brake fluid. After a while, when you need to replace your brake pads you push in the brake caliper pistons. If the brake fluid has been topped up, there is a VERY GOOD change brake fluid will spill out of the brake master cylinder and start to eat the paint.
So, keep an eye on the brake fluid level when you push the brake caliper pistons back in :)
Motorvate DIY I see, I will look out for this
You don't need the shims if you buy the brake pads from the dealer correct?
Joseph, just to be clear the shims don't come with the factory pads.
Normally you can reuse the shims that are on the car, but in my case the previous owner threw them away and I had to buy new ones.
Good luck on your brake job!
Motorvate DIY old pads were Wagner thermoquiet. Better than oem pads, they use those built in shims that conform to the piston for quiet braking. Should have gone with those! Oem is meh when it comes to pads.
Hey nemisans13,
For me, I like the OEM pads for the street. They seem to have minimal wear on the rotor and give good braking feel and almost ZERO brake dust. (unlike my BMW 530, OEM pads make CRAZY amount of dust)
The Wagner ThermoQuiet pads seem to be very similar to OEM, other than the shims. By the way, the brake shims are a "thermal barrier" to reduce how much heat travels from the brake pad backing plate to the caliper piston.
I didn't really notice any braking difference after I put back OEM pads, but the rear brakes don't work as hard as the front.
As with many things..... use what works for you :)
would anti seize work fine in place of grease?
Hey Nic D,
Hmmm, I think it would work for a while. Anti seize paste does dry out after a few months and it might squeak then.
There is not harm in trying it an let me know how you make out :)
Got a question for ya. I noticed the other morning my 370 started this vibrating type of feeling from the back passenger wheel. It kinda felt like it was going flat but it wasn't. So i got home and noticed about a weeks worth of brake dust on my wheel (it was just washed the day before) so i took it for another quick ride and it didnt do it. Well not till after it heated up. About 5 minutes of continuous driving then it came back. So it only does it when it's hot. Im gonna pull tge tire today but do you have any ideas that'll maybe explain this? You and your videos are always helpfull i just wanted to ask you about it. Thanks👍
Well i jacked the car up and sure enough the back passenger brake was dragging bad. However all i did was pop 1 of the bolts on the caliper loose and it snapped into place?? The bolts were way to tight so couldve it just been binded up from that? Im gonna drive it and not use the e-brake when i park. Ill just park on flat areas at my house. If it dont bind up I'll start useing the e-brake again and see if it does after that. I'll let you know how it plays out. You never know maybe it'll help someone else with the same issue.
Hey Waugy 370z,
(I assume you have the sport brakes on your 370)
If you have a lot of brake dust on the wheel, it sounds like the brake pad is not able to move smoothly a little left and right in the caliper. This can be due to rust buildup on the pad edges that contact the caliper, or uneven pad wear resulting in a taper and the pad get stuck on a small angle and gets locked into position.
I assume the bolt you loosened is the one that holds the caliper to the hub area?
If it "snapped back" it sure sounds like it got stuck, as mentioned above.
Remove the caliper pins, and see how easily the pads can be removed. They should slide out with very little force. The brake pad thickness should be the same on the inner and outer pads. If one pad has less depth, that is the one that is sticking.
I don't think it is the ebrake. It is uses a "brake shoe" type and all dust (well, almost all) would stay inside the built in brake drum in the rear rotor.
Please let me know what you find :)
see full reply below :)
Well so far so good👍 i dont know why it was hung up like that? But it really popped loose the instant the top caliper bolt came loose. So I dont know what happened to get it stuck?? I lubed up posts that the caliper slides on and its fine. And i haven't had to jam the brakes to stop quick either. I dont yank the hell out of the e-brake neither. ???????
Hey Waugy 370z,
It sounds like all is well now. Keep an eye on the dust in the wheel AND compare the rear brake rotor temp by touching it on the left and right side. They should be about the same :)
thank you!
You are welcome! I hope they are helpful to you. A new episode will be released every second Friday. Next episode is "How to change brake fluid" and will be released Dec 9th.
Do the rear brake pads wear out faster than the front ones???
Hey Abraham Colon,
On the G37 with the sport brakes, the front and rear seem to wear about the same.
However, on other cars, it is common for the rear pads to wear faster than the front. I think this is due to rear brakes being smaller and vehicle stability system often brake the rear to keep the car on its intended path.
Motorvate DIY - okay thanks!
You put the pins in backwards. It's suppose to be long end facing the inside of the car. It doesn't effect anything it's just aesthetics but there your not perfect.
Hey Crusher103,
Thanks for your comment. After reading it, I went and double checked the factory shop manual. It shows long end facing outside.
However, as you said, it really doesn't matter other than your way looks little nicer.
Do you have any issues with Loud Squealing when you reverse out of your garage after a cold soak (over night)?
Hey Dee Jay,
Not really, but I back into my garage.
If your brakes squeak, try applying a thin coat of a moly (molybdenum disulfide) grease to both sides of the shim and the back of the pads. That should stop the squeak.
Gosh I've tried 3 types of lube including moly and it still squeals. I changed out the pads to Akebono ProAct and it was even worse than stock! Seems like only certain sport brakes have this issue.
That's odd... The squeaking sound is usually caused by the pad/shim vibrating in the caliper.
When does it squeak?
Only when it's cold, going in reverse, with light brake pedal application. Dealer said he could clean out the dust and sand the pads but said the squeal would return soon....
The only other thing I can think of is the rotor, is there a 1/16" lip around the outside edge of the rotor? If your rotors are worn, that lip might be causing the squeak.
Great Videos !
Hey Dee Jay,
Thanks for your kind words, I appreciate it!
Are the rear pads the same as the front pads?
Thanks :)
Hey HospitalMusic,
This should answer your question:
Changing the front brake pads: ua-cam.com/video/BlYQBWZjUfQ/v-deo.html
The process is the same, however, the size of the front brake pads are different from the rear.
Hey I had a mechanic tell me you needed to
Turn the calipers before you pushed them in or they wouldn’t go in I guess that’s not true?
It depends on the rear caliper design. Some use the caliper piston for the parking brake (and those need to be screwed in) , and others have an internal drum brake for the parking brake.
@@MotorvateDIY thank you very much
Are they the same size form the base g37?
Hey Troy Sanchez,
Nope :(
The base (or non-sport) G37 has a different type of brake caliper called a "floating caliper". This allows the caliper for move (or float) on 2 large "pins" as the pads wear.
The sport brakes use a fixed caliper, that is bolted to the steering hub. The caliper pistons will simply extend out to compensate for pad wear.
In the spring I am planning on doing an episode of how to change pads on the non-sport G37s.
Ok just making sure , I have the 2014 Infiniti Q60s awd coupe, witch is the same as a g37xs , just double checking.
Spectacular videos
Hey Roger Doger,
Thanks for the kind words, you made my day!
What if the rotors don’t rotate?
Hmmm, then I would suspect the caliper pistons are not retracting, or if you have the non-sport brakes, the caliper might be hung up on the caliper pins.
Is a 2019 different
No... assuming you have the "sport brakes" that is offered on the G/Z/Q vehicles.
Follow the shop manual or just watch your videos =)
Hey Yol,
Thank you!
Are you sure about putting grease everywhere ? When it dries it becomes like a glue
Hey Aziz Peers,
Excellent question!
If you use a black "moly" type of grease, it never really dries and doesn't get sticky like glue.
I have used that grease on all of my cars brake jobs for about the last 10+ years. Nothing get stuck and nothing squeaks.
Motorvate DIY Hi! Thanks for a great videos! I really enjoy them!
I had that kind of grease in the kit with my Lexus shim kit. And the liquid type of thing in the little bag (like yours) became like a glue in a few minutes... so I applied it only on the back of the pads
Hey Aziz Peers,
Interesting... I guess it wasn't a "moly" kind of grease.
I'm going to do this today. Tired of paying someone else to do something so simple.
Hey Worlson Corriolan,
Awesome! It is very satisfying doing your own work and saving money :)
Motorvate DIY Thanks to you. I got it done yesterday, I'm very satisfied with how it turned out. Thank you
Hey Worlson Corriolan,
That's awesome! Thanks for letting me know.
I need to fix my brake asap, I took it to my mechanic and he said front and rear brakes have about 60% life left on them but my rear brakes are squealing everytime I brake especially in low speeds and reverse, I don't know if disassembling it, cleaning and greasing will take care of the brake squeal or should I just buy new pads altogether and grease them? also can you send me a link of the shims you used. thanks
Hey Tofuu YAYA,
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you.
If the rear pads are squealing, I would remove them and sand down the brake surface of the pad with 60-80 git emery cloth sandpaper. Just put the sandpaper on a flat surface and push/pull the pad back and forth for 30ish seconds.
This will remove any glaze that may of built up.
Then when re-assembling, use a think coat of a black moly grease between the pads & shim, and shim & brake caliper piston.
The shims I used are the Infiniti shims that you can get at the dealer.
Good luck!
Can you reuse the cotter(?) Pins or did you have to buy new ones?
Hey ChowMane,
Yes... You can reuse the cotter / hair pins.
Sh-Crud 😂nice save
Hey Arque Blackwell,
Thanks... :)
damn your pins seem so long. mine are flush with the caliper
Hey sk8punk318,
What year is your G37?
I wonder why the length would be different...
After market hardware kits have the same size pins front & back with no philips head on either pin acc. to a Beck Arnley Rep I spoke with.
Hey Dee Jay,
That just may explain it. The pads I removed were aftermarket, so maybe the OEM pins were replaced.
Thanks for letting me know.
I've owned an 08' coupe S and currently a 2011 coupe S. Both times when I changed the pads/rotors the pins were always flush and that was with OEM pads and rotors from factory(Akebono), and the hardware that came with the new pads I bought(Power Stop Z23's) had the exact same size pins and clips as the old ones. Either way it's not like it will decrease performance with longer pins but I've just never seen it. Also I still can't believe the power increase with the K&N filters! Compared to the old engine's (VQ35DE) single intake, our new dual intake system increases air intake volume by I believe 13% Nissan says.
hopefully u resurfaced ur rotors :/
Hey sk8punk318,
Nope. As I see it, there is no need.
Why shave away metal making the rotors thinner when they are not warped and don't have a thickness variation.
The new pads will seat or bed just fine on the used rotors.