Land Rover Defender 2.2 TDCI Basic Service Guide
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- Опубліковано 28 січ 2017
- A quick how to covering the servicing basics of the last of the Defenders Covering specifically the 2.2 TDCI. Although it might be the last of the line, servicing at home is possible and simple to do.
I cover:
Fuel filter change procedure,
Oil sump drain - Refill and Oil filter change,
Air filter change.
Oil service indicator reset.
My thanks to:
Matford Land Rover for the filters 01392 825 825
&
Opie Oils for the swift dispatch of the oil. www.opieoils.co.uk
Millers 5W-30 C1 www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60261-mil...
Castrol Syntrans 75W-90 www.opieoils.co.uk/p-739-castr...
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Mail: 4wdsouthwest@gmail.com
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Mate, that's awesome! Thanks very much for taking the time to share, especially for going to the extra trouble of showing all the part numbers and fluid specs. If you're wondering what to do in future videos, my vote would go to showing all the different points that need to be regularly greased (or at least checked). On one video I watched, a guy casually remarked about some part that I couldn't quite make out that if it was allowed to dry out it wouldn't last another 100km (he didn't elaborate as it was incidental to the main thrust of what he talking about). It also got me thinking about how many other grease points there are. They're the sort of thing that is easy and cheap enough if you know what to look for / do but if they're not tended to regularly they can really cause you some unnecessary and big bills. Plus they're exactly the sort of thing that the apprentice working on your car at the dealership is probably going to skip over in his hangover induced funk! Oh, and just BTW, my MY2016 Aussie 90 has the DPF - I think in the later years they became standard across the range.
Yes the 2.4 Puma is similar but has a paper element engine oil filter instead of a spin off type which comes with a new O-ring for the filter housing. I used Mahle oil filter part number OX339/2D and Millers Oils nanodrive EE Longlife eco 5w-30 fully synthetic (spec is Ford M2C913-D and is backwards compatible with the C and B versions, the Jaguar Landrover number is STJLR 03.5003.) For the final drive/diff i used Motul HD 80w-90 EP oil, about 1.6 litres per axle. Front axle is always worth checking as it gets a lot of the water first, has the swivel seals (or not so good seals) and can also suffer from failed oil seals inside the axle allowing the CV lubricant from the swivels to fill the diff. Completely agree with changing gearbox and transfer box oils regularly too, its easy enough with a cheap pump to add the correct amount and so much easier than removing them for rebuilding.
Useful to see how far the engine oil goes. This saved me some mess as I placed the bucket far from the drain. When I removed the oil plug the Oring was broken and smashed - probably an incorrect tightening (by the LR dealer....). These types of plugs are made to last the life of the car, and, if properly mounted, the Oring also is reusable (I have the same type of plug on my bike, a BMW GS). At most, one could buy some spare Orings.
Nice insight. I couldn't find a o ring to match as the thought did cross my mind. So for the £3 or so it costs I just stick a new one on each time.
@@Devonlandrover You are right. The Oring has an odd match of outer and inner diameters so it must be a special LR part - clever choice # ironic #. Tomorrow I will rush to the nearest LR dealer, and tonight the baby will be outside with a pan under the engine and a paper plug .... not really what I had planned.
My go to Land Rover Service video.Taken your advice with changing oil and air filter every 6000K.Always manage to do something wrong,like get more oil down my arm than in the receptacle, not securing the air filter body down correctly after replacing the air filter and hearing it rattle around as I drove proudly down the road or spilling new oil down the side of the engine despite using a proprietary funnel.If and when I shed my stupidity and cack-handedness this job will be something I look forward to rather than dread.Thank you and keep up the great content.....now on to the squeaky pedals....
for the records I haven't pre-filled the fuel filter and everything was fine. Engine started immediately
Fantastic video..many thanks. Just wish to add that they have now upgraded the oil filter part number from LR30778 to LLR058104 to LR104384 for my 2015 Defender 90 XS.
Thanks for the heads up Steve. I only did a routine change last month and not even looked at the invoice. LOL
Great vid and some really helpful stuff esp the oil service dash warning reset 👌. Just got a 2.2 Puma and keen to do all basic servicing myself so this has helped immensely. Just subscribed 😀
Brilliant , I can’t believe people like you exist ,you’re an Angel ✌🏿
Mate that was a fantastic video helped me a great deal as I am now servicing my 2.2 Puma myself. Thanks again very helpful.
Happy to be of "service" for you.
Great video, helped a lot. Thanks for taking the time.
From Kenya, Thanks for the great Video! I have a 2013 Defender 110. I just changed the Air Filter today and it was absolutely hideous getting the cover out, but even worse getting it back in since the cover is so tight up against the underside of the right fender. It took about 30-45 minutes to get it back in. I wish I could have seen your trick to getting it back in. Anyway, this is the best video I have seen thus far that is applicable to my vehicle. Thank you so much and if you do any more of these do-it-yourself videos that are applicable to the 2013 Defender 110, please let us know. With best wishes for you, Jon
Hi. Thank you for the kind words. I kid you not it took me something like 15 mins which had to be edited to keep things smooth. I'm due another 'B' service any minute now as I've done 6K since the last 'A' service. when the weather improves I'll do a driveline video as It'll be time to change all the oils for the Gearbox, Transferbox and Axles. If there is a specific procedure you need help on just ask.
excellent video. very easy to follow.
Well done.
Thanks this was the best video and i think i know you now coz i replayed you at least 100 times. Do a video on how to remove a very tight oil filter as mine was a bastard and all the yanks were too hung ho. I actually laughed out loud when i cleared the oil service warning after 6 times listening to you. Cheers
Joe 110 urban truck
Thanks for a very informative video. Now subscribed.
Castrol 5w30 a5 is the right oil, it is specially used by ford petrol and diesel, good video, I did my one last month
The castrol Meets Ford WSS-M2C913-A/ WSS-M2C913-B/ WSS-M2C913-C/ WSS-M2C913-D so it's good for the 2.4. For the 2.2 you really need one with the WSS-M2C934-B approval which is a Low SAPS oil and won't adversely effect the DPF filter. If you are in the world where it isn't fitted I.E Australia then either grade will be ok.
Doing the NC 500 in two weeks need to do the gearbox asap
..hi..very nice video, straight to the point...some 2.2 pumas doesnt have DPF, in which case oil doesnt have to be C1/C3 grade, so any fully synthetic 5w-30 with ACEA rating A1/B1 up to C3 will be fine for non DPF pumas (im using castrol Magnatec 5w-30 Stop-Start fully synthetic)..
Yes that's right. The ROW ( Rest of world) as JLR call it, means that with no dpf then the spec of the oil can be as you describe a base 5w30 the same is observed with the TDV6 in the discovery when they changed to dpf's in 2010 ~. The engine fundamentaly stayed the same just the oil spec changed to prevent the blockage of the dpf.
thanks for a great video I have a car 2.2 TDI when I start the car and after I push the accelerator to take full RPM 500 but second-time push accelerator does not take full RPM only 300 RPM push again and again but RPM 300 and which of and on the first time take full RPM 500 but Second time does not take full RPM 300 only (I check turbo, Eger Valve, MAF and MAP Senser, actuator valve not any fault) Please Help Me
Hi bro can i know how can i get it of the oil service words on the dash board. Whats's the tips ?
Thanksfor a great video especially comments on oil specs. ...... Reference fuel filter renewal. On the Td5 you can prime the filter by fitting it empty then turning the ignition on and pressing the accelerator to the floor 5+ times. Is it not the same with this engine
The TDCI doesn't have the pump priming programme like the TD5 as you describe It would be nice to have though. At least the 2.2 had the in tank pump fitted so a cycle of the ignition to purge the system helps. With the 2.4 the same procedure 95% of the time works, As there is in intank pump then pre filling the filter is a must and then start the engine and apply revs too 1500 - 2000 rpm will pull enough through and stop it running out. The official method is to get a priming bulb to attach inline on the front of the fuel rail to pull fuel through and purge the air out. Obviously this is what you do if it doesn't work but in my experience it has.
Great video thanks.
Quick question reference wading depth and cat protection, should i be concerned with thermal shock of cat ?
Driving a 2015 2.2 tdci puma detender 110 utility.
Hi john Great question I'll give you the official answer and my own personal answer.
The wading depth of the defender is 500mm or in layman's terms the top of the wheel rim. at that depth even when stationary the water level will be just about the touching the exhaust as it snakes under the gearbox let alone reach the DPF so it won't harm it.Now to push the limits of your wading depth and try some bonnet lapping bow wave shenanigans, So looking at circa 1 meter deep then the forced low of the wave will still mean the water level at the DPF will be around the chassis rails and whilst splash and some such might cause it to be wet the exhaust is well built and I highly doubt any harm will come of it.
The DPF will mainly do a regeneration whilst at speed on the road (passive) or as the ECU senses that it is needed (active) in which it will post inject diesel to make the DPF hotter to burn the soot into ash. Temperatures are circa 600'C and I understand your concerns of thermal stress but I trust JLR to have correctly designed their filters to withstand this stress of the worst case scenario of dousing the DPF when in the midst of regeneration. Which would be brave as the DPF as a reference is at about the same height as your air intake grill on the wing and that's not something you want in the water should you park it there as a test.In short no I wouldn't worry for day to day typical wading with a defender (or other JLR vehicle) about it cracking the DPF.
Thanks for tge reply ref DPF and wading depth.
Whats your view on underbody protection, looks quite involved, jetting,steaming,drying and then treating. If in favour what product would you recommend, any suggestions on where i could get it done with confidence that a proper job would be completed.
Appreciate your feedback and time.
Regards
JPW
Hey
Stopping the rust bug setting in is a very very high priority with later Defenders the factory paint is very UV unstable noticed by the chalky fading that happens on the rear cross member paint and the fact it is thin so there isn't much to stop the rust setting in.See my video Part one >> ua-cam.com/video/ugB9IHKEQPc/v-deo.html&
to see how I stopped mine using Bilt hamber Dynax Products which are still doing an amazing job to this day. IMHO if you are unable to DIY then Albeit using an equal and good product called Dinitrol then ccautomotive.co.uk/ Who has a long proven record in keeping not only Land rovers but all manner of nice things rot free.
Hey, Did you have the vehicle jacked / on axel stands for the oil change or is there enough clearance there already?
Hi.
The vehicle was on the floor for the oil change it is a little fiddly but wholly do-able.
fantastic video mate, just what i need to do my defender, is there anything of note that is different for my 2.4TDCI that i should know? thanks
Hi Sylvan billy. Sorry for the late reply My daytime job has been unrelenting lately.
The 2.4 doesn't quite need the higher Spec of oil that the 2.2 does so that helps as there isn't a DPF to be affected. anything ford M2C913B (Or C) standard is ok.
The Fuel filter replacement is critical as the 2.4 doesn't have an In tank pump so fill the new filter right to the top and connect it quickly after removing the old one, Start the engine and instantly bring the revs up to about 1500 - 2000 to help draw the fuel through the system, as there will be a small amount of air and this will be purged as the fuel will be moving through quickly due to the revs. If you don't you will create an air lock, which then you will need to get a bleeding bulb and bleed the system from the top by the engine.
Thank you 🙏
Thanks for this great video on basic servicing! I know the Diesel Particulate Filters (DPF) are common, but as i understand it, not a feature of all Defender 110's (mine is a 2.2 TDCI Defender 110, 2015 model year). How would i confirm if this is installed or not. (it makes a big difference in oil price for 5-30W, or 5-30W with DPF "non-clogging") thanks again in advance for taking the time to cover off the basics in such a clear manner. Appreciated.
Hi Sam. if you have one within the European area then it will have a DPF. Australia is one place where the emissions regulations mean a DPF doesn't have to be fitted.
A quick look in the engine bay on the drivers (RH) side under a few heat shields will reveal all. a large canister just off the back of the turbo with various wires and pipes going in and out will be the DPF filter. if it is a straight pipe then one isn't fitted.
It appears i have a can (off the back of the turbo RHS, back a bit, and below). There is a large nut visible on the top. I don't see any wires and pipes going in an out though. Hmmm hmmm
@@samoir1 if you want in the description is an E-mail bung a photo across and I'll tell you for sure.
Hi i have a 2.2 aswell.. i need assistance with a couple of part numbers, im trying to order my parts but im confused. Im pretty new to a defender 2.2 so could you help me please?
Hi DJM yeah sure what are you after? If you don't want to reveal details here then Email is in the description.
Thanks for this video. I do something wrong. I put castrol 5w30 c3 and not c1 I have 2.2 puma. It’s very bad or could wait next oil service?
Hi
It's not catastrophic as oil still lubricant even if the slightly wrong spec at least it wasn't the wrong grade like a 20w 50.
It is a Low SAPS oil so the risk is lessoned it is a slight difference, (c1 - 0.5% to c3 - 0.8%) in the ash content so IMHO a short service interval of 6 thousand miles shouldn't do any harm. The DPF location means it's pretty good at regenerating so I wouldn't worry unduly about the small amount of extra ash generated as the 2.2 doesn't use all that much oil.
@@Devonlandrover Hi, thanks for your answer. I am reassured with your explanation. Thank you very much !
Hey. Anyone of you know how to reset the dpf light? My dpf
Is actually removed and the light only comes forced by some clock as far as I understand. There is supposed to be a way of cancellation also by ignition key and pedals but I cannot find it. Any help here?
Hi. I cannot say for sure but would go back to whoever reprogrammed your ECU in the first place. As I don't know where you are in the world, the hot potatoe of Emissions devices and their modification and use thereof, is a hot potato I'd rather not juggle for long.
Hi there - well done indeed. Questions re the fuel filter WJI500040 on the 2.2TDCI: (i) There is a plastic screw on the bottom of the filter. Is that to drain any water or debris? (ii) How do you find out if the filter collected water? (iii) Is it recommended to change the filter every 60,000 km? (iv) upon changing the filter, do I need a priming pump to get the air out (I heard that if this is not done the high pressure fuel pump might get damaged) ? Thanks.
Hi. Yes the tap is a water drain. TBH unless you are in the outback, Africa or other countries where fuel quality and supply chain is considered risky then a cursory check after 1/2 a mile after filling up will tell you a lot about the quality and whether further action will be needed. Ok maybe if you leave it parked with very little in the tank for a long time then maybe quick test can't harm but in the whole it isn't needed.
When unscrewing the tap then have a collecting bowl underneath or say the bottom of a PET bottle and if there is any water then you will see it in layers as the diesel will float on top of the water.
The service regime suggests a Filter drain every 12K miles (19,200 KM's) and renew the filter every 24K miles (38,400 KM's), for normal road use most of the time. For severe use (Offroad rough terrain muddy, dusty and wading), then the replacement is down to 6,250 miles (10000 KM's) . I'm a fussy person so even with normal road usage then I replace the filter every 12K miles as filters cost less then an injector pump.
On the 2.2 then you can just replace the filter then turn the ignition key to Position 2 then the intank pump will prime the system. Running the intank pump out of diesel will cause issues and damage the pump hence, the (hiccup and Limp mode when you run the tank really low, then eventual shut down) Just changing the filter and purging the air won't do any harm. If you're really concerned then 1/2 prefill the filter before the change so there isn't that much air there. FYI the 2.4 needs a bleed tool or the old prefill start, rev and hope as there isn't a intank pump to push the diesel to the engine just the suction to pull it through, and so an air lock will mean an engine non start.
@@Devonlandrover Late, but no less thankful for your kind response!
Hi there! If it is Castrol Edge Professional C1 5W-30, it has WSS-M2C934-B?
Should be this kind of oil that fits the last Defender?
Every what kilometers should I change fuel filter?
Thank you so much!
Hi yes that spec will be fine for the last ones using the 2.2 with a DPF.
In the NA, urban Australia and European countries then 2 years or every 24 thousand will be fine. If your filling from cans or in Africa, south America or the outback where debris in fuel storage tanks could be an issue the do it yearly or after a trip to that type of area.
@@Devonlandrover thank you so much! Take care and God bless!
Hello again. Sir pls help me. I have the last Defender 90 2016 2.2L Heritage edition. Our dealer here in Jaguar Land Rover have Castrol Edge Professional C1 5W-30 with STJLR.03.5005 indicated at the engine oil plastic container. And nowhere WSS-M2C934-B written. Does it fit my Defender? Thank you so much!
And sir sorry I forgot. I have only 6,100 kilometers. City driven only. Do I have to change my fuel filter? Thank you!
Fuel will be ok if as before you do normal city driving with good quality gas stations to visit. The oil is all good www.opieoils.co.uk/p-162109-castrol-edge-professional-c1-5w-30-fully-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx
Hi, Nice video, but I did not understand what do I have to do to reset the oil service light, can you please help me with that? What do I have to hold for 15 seconds?
Hi. The Brake and the Accelerator (Gas) pedals at the same time. then the little Red oil can (oil warning light) will blink on and off. Release the pedals switch off the ignition switch leave 2 minutes and it'll be reset.
Hello! My red oil can didn’t blink 🤷🏻♂️
Mmm interesting, it's not even a unique LR thing it's a ford thing. you held the brake and accelerator down fully depressed for at least 15 seconds or until the oil light starts blinking right? As that is the only recorded DIY way to do it without resorting to using OBD scan tools to plug in and reset.
4WDSouthWest oh now it blinks!🤦🏻♂️Thanks! I just didn’t understand the instructions at first. Saludos desde Costa Rica 🇨🇷
No problems, Happy to help.
does the puma 2.4 have an oil service warning on the dash?
Hi. Yes it is the same process, just the trigger is different. also things like Freelander 2. The reset is a basic ford wide thing for transits etc etc
So the euro 5 dpf will have more complex driving style algorithms built in to decide when oil dilution is at a critical level. Where as the euro 4 stuff it's a fixed mileage service reminder.
@@Devonlandrover Ok thank you, iv just started changing my own oils and filters. So i will get a reminder on the dash at some point but the removal process is the same as you showed in the vid. is that correct?
Hi i need your help. I have a 2.2 as you do. I'm in the US and with no one here to help i had to figure everything out myself. My stupid question is what is the piping and where does it go in video? reference behind the word " Briefly ". Sensor is above letter " r " I just got my motor running and not sure where to plumb that. Thanks.....Romel
Hi. I'm not sure which sensor you are referring too. I looked back through the vid and didn't see the word briefly. Do you have a time stamp (I.e. time on the video when this sensor is visable?) I'll help as much as I can.
@@Devonlandrover Hi at exactly 16 minutes in there is direction to " Run the engine Briefly ......
@@cocoritemassiveify Gotcha, missed that part of the text. lol. The green plug on the metal pipe is an Air charge Temp sensor PN: LR032216 It is upstream of the inlet manifold and downstream of the intercooler
@@Devonlandrover Hi thanks so far. Please give more details. Yes i know it sounds pretty straight forward but this motor is all very new to me. Is this the bottom side of the inter-cooler? This is the A/C inter-cooler?
Thanks again
@@Devonlandrover HI i found where the hose goes to the intercooler. Do you have a part number for that hose? Don't want to buy the wrong one
Thanks, again
Great video but get a dead cat for your mic please. it'll fix the wind noise.
Hi Ryan I'm looking at better quality equipment. This is all being done on a Canon 230 HS compact camera and edited on movie maker.
Excellent video, but you didn’t show how you do the gearbox oil. The filler plug is in a awkward place and it would be interesting to see how it’s done.
Hi B C, I didn't include the G'box oil in the basic guide as 'According to LR' it is a 120K replacement Item. IMHO It should be done ASAP from the factory as there are countless cases of them being under or over filled, (Or none at all for about 500 units in 2007 *cough), As the gearbox beds in during the first couple thousand miles that is when it needs a change.
And really depending on how much work you do be it gentle commute or heavy towing then I would say every 30K to drain and replace.
I replaced the oil @6000K and then again @33630K as I had the rear main oil G'box seal leak so whilst I was in there I did the G'box & T'box oils.
Yes you are right the filler is a pain. There is pumps available (google Quicksilver Gear oil pump) that have a thin filler style pipe to get in there or I just used the Squeezy bottle that is supplied with the oil. it is a little fiddly but you can get it high enough to pour it in. The capacity is 2.2 litres so 2 bottles then 200ml in on top. depending on your model year it will be a T50 Torx bit or an 8mm hex head driver.
Ah its a ford transit with a Landy Defender body.