Ford Rear Axle Seal Leak Repair
Вставка
- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- I only recommend Ford Seals Here-(check fitment guide)
www.amazon.com/...
The only fluid the differential should be refilled with-(3-4qts required)
www.amazon.com/...
Friction modifier-(1 bottle per needed)
www.amazon.com/...
This is the differential sealant I recommend-
www.amazon.com/...
This is the best Brake Cleaner to get all the residue off-
www.amazon.com/...
In this video I show how to replace an axle seal on a 2012 Ford F150 but the procedure is almost exactly the same on any Ford rear end since the 80's.
great video..just changed my rear brakes and saw that my left rear seal is leaking..another weekend of fun ahead..glad I found your vids , you make my life easier..thanks
Thank you for your video, I just fixed this issue on my 2007 F150, this is about the most “difficult” thing I’ve done myself on my vehicle, but with your help I was able to get it done. Thanks again and God Bless you!
I just finished this service. I blew the vent clear by reaching in to the vent tube through the left rear wheel well, cut the rubber tubing blew the vent both ways with around 120 lbs of air. There was definitely some crap in the upper tube. I simply spliced it with a 1/4 inch brass hose barb and two mini clamps. Replacing the seals was pretty easy, but being that I will hit 78 in two months, I really wished I had a two post lift. I had to go to NAPA for the right seals after Amazon sent me the wrong ones. I used Valvoline full synthetic in the squeeze bags. It took three 1 qt. Bags. The guy/gal that came up with that idea was a true genius. I also used the felpro gasket. I don't like using sealant on this type of repair. I just got rid of the emergency brakes, as I never use them on this truck, and my backing plate rusted through where the pins go through it to hold the spring clips in place. The bolts are 5/16-18 in case you want to replace a couple of the top bolts with studs to hang the cover on. I pre stuck the gasket to the cover with spray adhesive after cleaning, priming and painting the outside.
Also guys. Check/blow out your axle vent line as well. I had both seals leaking and read on the forums I believe to check for blockage in the vent, which will let pressure build in the diff and tubes and blow out the seals. Mine was plugged
luvthesnow I had the same thing . Tell everyone to check vent tube.
How do u blow out the vent I don't have a compressor
I watched several videos before attempting this repair yesterday and I wish I'd seen this one, this is the clearest and easiest to follow instruction out of all the ones I'd seen and I may have been able to avoid the mechanic had I had his calming narration to guide me through the task. Granted I was in an AutoZone parking lot and not in an ideal neighborhood so the mechanic was a welcome alternative by that point but watching this video kinda makes me want to try the job on a scrap vehicle just to get familiar with the differential setup.
Just did my rear diff today on my 2001 S-crew. I had a worn bearing and leaking right rear seal that cut into my right axle shaft. Thank you for the step by step vids. Very informative as always. Thanks again for helping us out!!!👍🏼
Best rear diff/seals vid i have seen. Appreciate the attention to detail, not some 3 minute hack vid. How can someone seriously think a 3 minute video can explain a repair like this?? Keep up the good work, i know how making videos is a lot of work. Much appreciated
Great vid as always did on my dads F150 few years back ,there is only one thing I would suggest is to check axle vent hose and fitting they get clogged with dirt at times or pinched wich tends to blow seals out ,but great instruction vid.
+TIM WEAVER Ive seen plenty of those too on construction trucks.
@@FordTechMakuloco
What if you are changing the rear diff fluid at home and don't have compressed air to clean out bolt holes on rear diff, can a vacuum be used instead?
That's a hell of a video! Thank you very much. My brother just bought his friend's 2012 F150 and drove to show me when I noticed a bunch of diff oil running down the wheel and tire flowing into the street. He hadn't even noticed it... We will be using your video as a guide. Keep up the great work!
Jgizzy -redacted- Sweet it should help allot.
Thanks! Super helpful! Just got a 95 Mazda B2300 with leaking axle seal and I have never done bearings or seals or anything with the differential before. This was well shot and well explained! It all went just as you demonstrated. Feeling good! Thank you!
You're still the best after all of these years Tech.
great Video the only thing i would add is that the first thing to look for when you get an axle leak is a plugged breather tube ( rubber hose near the middle of the axle where the brake lines split off from) often the hose is missing. the breather gets plugger the diff heats up causing pressure which forces oil out of the seals. also as the oil is the most expensive part of this repair i always replace all of the seals since i have it apart anyhow again great video!
Sele I
Hi Brian. Thanks for this video. I see it is quite old. I just changed the rear brakes on my 2004 at 165,000 miles and noticed that the right seal needs to be replaced. One thing that i cannot understand is why Ford decided to commit suicide with the new style trucks. I also own a 1994 F150, and it has been absolutely bullet proof. The rear axle seals are still good, it has normal spark plugs, it did not need a complete timing job, fuel pum modulator or anything else. It needed a water pump at around 80k, and an alternator last year.
About to change bearings and seal on my 09 F-150. You where the only person I could think of right off the bat that I knew would be using Motorcraft parts lol. Had to make sure my seal I got looks the same. Thanks!
I can't believe how expensive the synthetic 75W 140 is ! I was sorely tempted to go with the 85W 140 conventional , but I decided to go with the recommended even though it cost three times as much .
I got a gusher leak on right rear on my 2001 F-150. It has disc brakes in back, so the service brakes should be ok. I plan on brake-Kleening the emergency brake like you did in the video, assuming not totally trashed. I had a similar leak on driver's side of my 1989 F-150, with drum rear brakes, so a bigger job. Seems like nothing on these diffs has changed back to at least 1989. I just hope my axle shaft is not gouged on the 2001, as I have not torn apart yet. Waiting on parts and ordered 1 new bearing just in case, but no new axle shaft.... Great video as usual!!!
I m Edward from Brazil. As a ford lover, I couldnt miss to subscribe your channel.
Here in Brazil we dont have much V8´s and automatic transmission, but we may get some in our repair shop once in while, so I m here watching the videos to learn more how to work on them. So, thanks for your videos.
Man, where were you 2 years ago when I had to replace my axle shaft on my 1998 Lincoln Town Car? Good stuff, as usual.
Thanks for the video, very helpful. 2004 New Style F150 with 10.25 axle and 200,000 Miles. I also replaced the bearings, although I doubt it was necessary. There was some wear on the axle shafts and the fill hole was plugged with a thick greasy concoction of fine metallic particles. I assume it was from the ring gear assembly and drawn in there from the magnetic plug. Wear on the ring and pinion was not what I wanted to see, too far out on the teeth of the ring gear. Next up is the leaking pinion seal, and maybe a new ring and pinion sometime down the road.
As a '09 F150 owner I am glad I came across your video. Very well explained and thorough!! I still have a few miles to go before I have to change out my bearings or diff fluid but I certainly subscribed and will refer to your videos in the future.
Thanks again
Peter
Ontario, CAN
Great pointers and explained well. Thanks for the confidence boost. Im off to get 75w 140 , Friction booster an some sealer.
great camera work. doing this 39 years just wanted to see if you knew your stuff. well done
+tim arnold Yeah by the time I recorded this video I had done countless rear end rebuilds so it was a good time to teach what I have learned.
I had to do axle seals and bearings on my 2002. Easy work thanks to your video. Thank you so much!!
This is, bar none, one of the best tutorials I've seen on UA-cam. Thanks for doing such a great job. I'm thinking about doing this myself, not a great mechanic but do my own fluid changes, tune ups, and so on. This looks like it's something I could do. Thanks again.
It’s easier than it looks 🎉 can be time consuming if your like me and have to over clean everything ( like diff cover and bolts)🤙
The best vid I found in UA-cam, I checked other ones but yours makes it easier and less complicated. Thank you.
I think this is about the most informative and well explained video I have seen on repair work. Thank you for posting it. I have a 2003 F150 and was told my pulsating brakes are from the same seal leaking. Is that a realistic reason brakes would pulsate? Clearly I need to change the seal out anyway.
No I have never seen one that was wet or soaked in this fluid cause the pulsating brakes.
Thanks. Wonder why it's pulsating
The rear are prone to pulsate on these as they are very thin
Brian, I've watched so many of your videos and have learned so much from you. I want to say thanks for making such great videos!
+Joe Correia That's good! Glad to help!
@@FordTechMakuloco do these bearings have some radial play? My axle shaft can move up and down enough to make a little clunk, but there's no putting and the shaft looks really smooth and good condition.
Is some play normal?
@@FordTechMakuloco i have a 03 f250 superduty xlt 4x4 with the 5.4 and i replaced the axle seal twice because it keeps leakin from the axle seal. What would cause that
@@bradylane8502 axle shaft might be worn, get a micrometer and measure thickness where seal rides
I had my seal done a year ago by a shop and the seal has been leaking for a year I've never replaced these before what should I do since I've never done these before I'll keep watching the video ,I have wicked bad anxiety when doing jobs I've never done before and mines on a 91 mustang gt
That was helpful. I noticed the rear brakes on my '03 Ranger felt weird and the brake wasn't holding very well. Pulled off the drums and found one side completely saturated with gear oil and the other side getting damp. Oh well, looks like an easy enough job to do. I'll obviously do both sides and will have to replace the brake shoes also since they're wet. I was considering putting new axle bearings in but I can't imagine they are bad. They are cheap enough to do while I'm in there I guess. Thanks for the video!
I just did this to my 2008 Ford F150. You are a lifesaver bro thank you so much!
Awesome video thank you I have a 99 f-150 5.4 L V8 triton not sure what the axle is but I’m hoping I can get it done my self, I just noticed my rear passenger tire it’s very wet looking and I just hope it’s the seal I hope to hear from you thank you again
Hello..GREAT VIDEO. I have to agree with the above comments, the detail is Phenominal. I have a question. On my 05 Explorer XLT I just found my fluid on my Left and Right Half shafts and am wondering if I go about repairing my truck the same way?? Do I need to remove both half shafts and the case?? Could you help Please? Thank you in advance.
jsjizza1 You just need to remove both halfshafts then pop the seals out and put new in.
Maybe you have a different kind of wrench than I do, but I tried to do what you did and after tapping it a couple times with a hammer I had sheared off all the points on the head of the bolt (and it was a 5/16ths). I would not suggest that method. I did manage to get it out by sticking the same size socket on it, then adding an extension to that. I doesn't sit perfect but it still held way better than the round end of a wrench.
Thank you for spending the time for us, I was going to take mine in because i am getting too old for this stuff but thanks to you I am going to do the repair my self. great video.. I have a 2007 f150 and it is my first ford and I have to say its my last I have got the biggest lemon I think for has ever made or there really is a chevy god and he is really pissed at me for jumping ship.
Thanks again Brian
Great video, im not changing mine but having a mechanic change it, but i wanted to know the process to make sure they dont mess with me, turns out seals are really cheap too
Best mechanic youtuber.thank you always say all neccassary things to know.
Thanks, this help much about on our 2000 Ford Transit 330. Never done this before and after watching this is was easy. Never done before, never...
Thank you for sharing this video . It was very helpful to me. Good step by step instruction . Does this procedure work for a 1997 Ford Crown Victoria police interceptor as well ?
No gasket? Just sealant?
What type/Brand of sealant?
Great video.
Great video, im doing my seals but where do find the seal install tool?
Aye, probably the best vid about this job, next time don't tap the ring spanner on the inner pin retaining bolt but torque to Ford specs same like the well explained torque set and pattern on the outer diff cover. Overall good job.
Thank you very much. I really appreciate your quick response!!!!! I look forward to more of your vids!!!
I follow a lot of your videos, so I appreciate that you have this out there - I have this exact problem, but I"m wondering, should I just plan to replace both seals or just the one that has the leak? It seems like a good amount of effort to do one if the other may develop the same leak soon...
Thank you so much for this!! I’m hoping that the same process will apply for me 1992 E-150? The local shop quoted $800 and I would love to do this myself. I enjoy doing my own work as long as I have toque specs etc.
Oanother question, what types of sealant should I be purchasing for the differential housing and plug? Cheers!
Great video. You are very meticulous and I’d 100% trust you to work on my truck.
I did a dumb thing and I need some help. I upgraded my rear diff to a limited slip. I MAY have put way too much preload on my carrier bearings. Yukon says you almost can't put too much but I may have. I re-used my old shims and my backlash was in spec, and my gear markings looked really good. I am noticing too much metal shavings so I am going to take it apart again and redo it. The thing is, I am 100% confident I got my end caps or retainers on the correct side. I just don't know with 100% confidence if I got one or both put in upside down or not. How can I tell based on the markings? With the old 8.8s the caps had arrows that pointed out towards the axles. Not so with the 9.75 does the lettering or numbering go in a certain way? Does it go the same direction both sides or does one side marking go one way and the other side the other? HELP PLEASE. I am going to redo this and am prepared to change my carrier bearings and re shim before I ruin the other bearings but any help to know that I got the retainers on correctly would be MUCH help.
Thankyou for your video. You make it look like an easy job. I plan on doing this job on my ford explorer.
Wonder why ford recommends 75w 140 on everything but the Crown Vic you mentioned which I assumed would be the same as the Town Car up until 2011 because they are the panther chassis.
It seems that 75w 140 is a fully synthetic fluid and would give better protection than the 80w 90 that came in those Factory and what I assume is still recommended.
I have seen some talk that in certain applications that 80w 90 differential fluid actually gives better protection then I fully synthetic 75w 140. Maybe it's one of those situations???
Good job with the video, thanks! This is tomorrow's project for me weather permitting. Approximately how many hours does this job pay a professional auto tech?
3-4 I believe.
Would cleaning out the diff with brake cleaner be a not so bad idea? It evaporates not to mention a bunch of fresh fluid is going right in afterwards, but I have done about four of these myself and almost as many fronts (NEVER knew about any vent or even noticed if the seals were leaking or not, lol) I always used a gasket with red permatex and thought if ANY grit was left on the teeth, I was asking for trouble, so I'd use brake cleaner, and a rag in the bottom to wipe out the debris and excess cleaner. Any thoughts?
Another great video. I am looking at a tone ring replacement on a 2005 F250 SD Diesel. I am trying to find some information on that how to. Do you have any video recommendations?
For some reason my leaky seal continues to leak after my repair what do you think went wrong... 04 e150.. could maybe a overfill I did put three quarts plus the friction modifier..
vent pipe plugged up?
Wow these oil seals are a pain to install without the manufacturers tool. Any suggestions?? Thanks again.
this looks like something average guy can do? if he has all tools needed, and if I took it to shop, how much time? lastly thanks for the vid .very helpfull
Absolutely love your videos! Saved me a lot of money so far. So my 2006 f150 recently started to get a squeaking from the rear, changed brakes. Thought maybe some dust. Took them apart and cleaned everything good and checked for any rubbing from the rotor splash shield. Also watched your video with the heat shield on the driveshaft, wasn't that either. All seemed to check out. Could this be a rear bearing gone bad? It a similar squeaking like brakes which I notice at 10-20 mph. I don't want to have to take everything apart, replace and then the bearings be completely fine because it's my daily driver. Thanks!
Hi Brian. Would you kindly do a video on 2011-2017 Ford Explorer rear differential fluid drain and fill service? I looked on BSG Automotive for similar on Mazda CX-9, but it seems Mazda was smart enough to design an accessible drain and fill plug.
Hello. Love your attention to cleanliness and detail. I was concerned however that you dramatically over-tightened the 3/8 bolt for the locking bar. spec torque is only 20lbs. you probably had 2 or 3 times that.. can you give an input to your reasoning?
Good luck with your helping tour - i have donated
Battery time for me... i saw your video on batterys and i think you said Auto Zone has a great battery correct??? i think you said it was a Dura last ??? please tell me should i get a interstate battery or a ford battery??? its for my 1996 F-150 4.9L 2 Wheel drive standard trans... thx...
Hello Brian. This video is so far the most detailed I have found on replacing a rear axle seal. I have a Ford Taurus X '08 with a passage rear axle seal that needs replaced. What I am wondering is this "how-to" the same for the Taurus X as well?
I was just about to do the same job, Thanks to your video well explained, I don't think I going to have any problem. Thank you for it. And from now on I am one more Subscribed
Apparently previous owner of my brothers 97 f150 XL 2 WD had rearend work done. While he was attempting to replace outer axle seals and bearings. Low and behold while trying to remove pinion pin the locking bolt it seems the end of the bolt is broke off in the pin. Because pin will not come out. And the end of the bolt seems jagged. Hmmm. Now hes stuck. How can we get it out? He tried a magnet.
Hi, I replaced the axle seals on my 2002 f150 4x4 -- Now I can't get the cross pin back in -- I used a hammer like you did, and it slightly marred the axle splines -- Should I just hammer them in anyways? It's really close to going in.
Great video... What happens once you remove the pinion nut, but don't have a wheel puller? What if I was hammering the whole flange off, and the shaft is coming out as well? :-(
Great Video! I think it is recommended to only use that lock pin twice. Great views not much editing and good detail.
The most informative UA-cam video I've ever seen. Great job! How did you push the axles in tho? And I have a good 2000 crown vic. What rear dif fluid do you recommend
On the crown vic you likely have to push in the axles and turn them a bit then they will drop in a bit more then you will be able to get the c clip in. The wheel studs interfere with the brake hardware and wont let you push axle in far enough until you turn them a bit. Full synthetic 80w-90 unless your towing.
This is how you make vid!
Very good vid,attention to detail great,thanks!
Kudos for the Christian music playing. Glad to hear it!Informative video. About to tackle this on my 09 F250
Thank you for this! What tool are you using to center the seal in this video and where can you get one? Thank you!
I just asked the same question.
What sealant did you use on the differential? How long after applying the sealant do you install the cover?
Thanks for the video.
Good vid. Got an 03 marquis needing an axle seal. What fluid will i be needing to refill diff?
The rear differential in my 4x4 97 Expedition was leaking. My mechanic replaced the seal but two days later it began leaking again. Are there any additives, epoxies or other type of sealant that will help to stop the leak? Apparently the cover or axle housing are too far gone for the gasket alone to hold the fluid. Thanks
thanks for all your videos! but I'm wondering why use a silicone type sealant and not a paper gasket of some kind?
+Curtis Bull I follow what Ford uses on them from the factory following workshop manual procedures is all.
The music is amazing thanks for the information
Could you describe what tools/method you used to get your diff cover mating surface so immaculate before re-installation? Great video!
This is my gasket cleaning method here tools used are linked in the video description- ua-cam.com/video/Uy5p-cUge5s/v-deo.html
+FordTechMakuloco Awesome, thanks for the point out. Great instruction.
I've been looking for rear wheel seals for my 2004 model, and it's been confusing because apparently there's more than one type of wheel seal for more than one type of rear end. I can't seem to figure out what to look for, so if I could get some help, that would be appreciated.
I am very worried, can you help me, my car also has this problem, how much does it cost?
Is there an interval when the bearings should be replaced? If it was your truck, would you have replaced the bearings while you had the axle shaft out?
As long as the differential was setup right and the fluid was maintained the bearings can last 200k so we inspect but never just replace for the heck of it.
I have 06 F150 with 150k miles and change rear diff every 60k miles. Rear pinion seal is leaking. Wasn’t sure if good time to replace axle shaft bearings while already replacing pinion seal and bearing. I will check drive shaft components for wear to see if that caused the pinion seal leak.
Btw, I followed your videos on timing chain kit for the 5.4L. I have driven 10k miles since and truck is still running great. Thank you for taking the time to film, edit and share your videos. I have learned a lot that I wouldn’t have other wise.
Is there any risk of the spider gears falling out? Everyone tells me they will fall out if your not careful
Excellent video, thanks! So, I would use 75w140 in my 1994 10.25 rg rear and 75w90 in the Dana 50 front, with friction additive in the rear? Also, what sealant did you use on the fill plug?
idahomountainelk The plug sealant is just regular Teflon thread sealant. I would use the 75w-140 in the rear and 80w90 in the front for yours.
Les schwab couldn't do my seal . They said someone put a bandaid repair on it ?? Do you know what they meant ??
Question before I head into work. Doing this repair on a 95 explorer with a traction lock diff. Any tips on that curvy spring thingie or what to do if the pin snaps? I've done this repair on an open diff on my bronco II (got lucky and the pin wasn't broken) This explorer is in rough shape and we're finding a lot of hidden sins the last owner never told us about. I'm expecting the pin to snap... And of course, does that S-Curve spring just drop out and go back in, and if so? Does it need to be directional.
Hello, I have a question, Can the same procedure be applied to a 2009 Ford Crown Victoria?
My mechanic discovered the 3/8" cross pin bolt (pinion shaft retaining bolt) on my F150 has its head broken off, so he got scared and replaced the diff. cover. Any suggestions on how I could remove the bolt? It doesn't look highly accessible for a drill.
First I want to thank you for your videos I've used at least 8 to do job on my truck so thanks for that. I have a 2000 f150 with limited slip, Ive read online and saw that there is also an s-clip between the bevel gears. How would I take that out and would anything in the process that you showed change?
Hi Brian, I was wondering if CV shaft at the driver side front that connects to the front diff. should have a little play on it? There is a leak between the diff and the small shaft that connects to the CV shaft. So I am assuming its a seal. But do not want to disassemble it and find out more problems. Thanks
+Mike P Oh.. BTW. I have a 2005 XLT 4.6L 4x4 F150.
hola a que kilometraje es recomendable cambiar el aceite al diferencial ?
If you get leaking axle seals it's always good to inspect the wheel bearings. I had a Nissan Titan that the wheel bearings kept going bad and the bearing material kept destroying the axle seals causing them to leak.. I'll never own another Nissan since they refused to upgrade the diff, only replace parts while under warranty.
Brother you have a wonderful video here. Thank you so much for taking the time to tutor me on this job. Blessings!
Thanks for your help God Bless Y6
Hey man I have a 99 F250 LD would this have the same diff as the one in the video? I can't find any info on this truck at all but need to replace the seals ASAP.
Is this what eventually happens if you never change the diff fluid like Ford recommends on my 2012 F150? Suppose to be good forever.
First place I go 🤘🤩🤘
Unfortunately I swapped out axles from a crewcab that already had pitting already (crews have 3:73’s vs 3:55’s)but changed the driver’s seal 🦭 already did pinion’s but the C clip didn’t want to come out for passenger’s (didn’t need it but was going to since apart)
I have a few 10th gens so I’m not to worried of this axle. Will be using axle that’s in best condition for the 4:88’s I have.
Iv watched your videos for a while but need to go back through to add any suggestions for topics that would be beneficial done by U 🫵
What weight fluid belongs in my 2011,F350 6.7 diesel, srw with 3.73 gears. The owners manual has two different weight oils. One for limited slip and one for 10.5 inch rear. How do I tell what axle is in truck. Thanks
where did you order the seal from also what is the correct name of the seal?
I think you are sppt on // My F250 SD is older But you really get It/ Iwish FORD would make stainleess lines on ALL Thanks for tranny advise I appreciate tou// You are GOOD
Very well filmed and narrated! Very helpful! Thanks!
Ever deal with a broken crosspin bolt? Real PITA to get out.. When those leak at high miles I always replace the bearing too (with a Timken).
alb12345672 One time yes but I was able to tap it and unscrew it out I was very lucky.
FordTechMakuloco I was messing in my box not long ago and found my extra pin bolt I kept on hand back in the day. I got lucky and walked everyone I had break out with a pick.
I swear I've redone the seal on my rear differential cover 3 times! Leaks every damn time!
Your supposed to remove the fill plug first. Plus most RTV brands say to let the RTV dry for an hour before torqueing to spec.
Oh yeah when is the last time you found a seized fill plug? The plugs NPT thread pitch is designed to get tighter the further it goes eliminating water ingress plus the pipe sealant, so a seized plug is very uncommon. I have worked in the salt belt 30 years never saw one and I have worked on some rusted nightmare vehicles. I set the cover bolts right away as Ford instructs and never a problem with diff covers leaking. My work is done based on lots of experience not what a package or workshop manual says.
hi!
great job first of all. do you have a video for a ford escape 2005 changing rear seals? if not is it about the same procedure?
thanks!
+cos boc The procedure is the same but the escape uses cv shafts so you need to remove them and the suspension on that partivular side in order to get at them the diff cover does not have to come off. I have no videos on that sorry.
I have a 2010 FX4 with an E-locker. I'm replacing the fluid in a few days and was wondering if I need to add the friction modifier?