New Kit link is in the description which now includes 6 total joysticks and some tools. NEW METHOD: Check out another way to manually calibrate (much easier IMO): ua-cam.com/video/Uoxz0oHX9TE/v-deo.html
@@christiandoyle578 It's gone unfortunately I don't do any repairs anymore, sorry. If you type in "xbox controller repair service" in ebay's search bar you can find some sellers that still provide this service.
Man talk about underrated. As much as a lot of people don’t know how to manipulate the inside of a controller, it still doesn’t give a proper excuse on why you don’t deserve hundreds of thousands of subscribers. Thank you
Electronic hobbyist here, do micro soldering on Mac circuit boards. Noticed that the melt point of the factory solder is much higher than the 60/40 I use on Macs and much higher than the standard melt point of 360 .. . 650 - 700 degrees does get this job done for removal, using 60/40 to resolder seemed fine. Thanks for the tutorial.
I had Xbox One Stick Drift, before buying a new set of Alps Analog sticks I salvaged one controller out of the two utilizing above method and it worked. Then I ordered a 6 pack from Soss Gaming on ebay, it was so well packed, came quickly, were genuine Alps keys. I replaced both the joy sticks on the second controller and did not go through the fine tuning process (in my opinion not worth the time unless you are way off). Checked the controller using htmlgamepad website, Joy sticks were 99.99% centered without the manual sheet calibration referenced in the video. Be sure you have intermediate solder skills and a good iron (Weller/Haako), I did not have to cut the sticks as shown as I have a solder vacuum suction pump which sufficed and there was no pressure required to pull old joystick that came out like butter. There are 14 solder points so can be daunting if you are holding a soldering iron the first time for first time, It requires precision and dexterity and common sense as is not hard.
After watching this, I now realize paying for a new controller is not so bad. No way am I going through all this trouble. I was hoping for a "plug-n-play" potentiometer with an auto-calibration. Your video is top-notch, but too much effort for me. Good job!
If you just have stick drift, you can get away with just replacing the potentiometer. My "newest method" video shows how you can even calibrate it without math or measurements, which may not even be necessary. Don't give up lol
I remember watching these years ago and thinking the same. Years later i bought soldering iron and few other bits and now am ready to do it. (1 of those things you will eventually need to repair something)
These videos are awesome. For ignorant people like myself, it would be super helpful if you added temperatures you are soldering at and maybe going a little more in depth on the "whys" when you're desoldering, soldering, adding paste, etc. Can't say enough how good the videos are and thank you for doing this
Haha yeah technically not everything is necessary but they do make things easier. Lots of people on eBay are offering joystick repairs so luckily there are others willing to do it for ya. Cheers.
@@SOSSGAMING if I were to not swap out the controller joy stick but instead only replace the spring inside it and put it back in would I need to calibrate it ? Thanks !
@@SOSSGAMING thank you I’ve been holding off doing this because I don’t have the kit to calibrate . My joysticks are stock and are perfect condition but I was looking to use a different spring for a different tension.
I didn't have a wick neither did I have pliers to take apart the old joystick. I was able to slowly take off the old joystick by applying outward pressure at an angle and heating up pins one by one. Worked out well in the end. Thanks for the video
This was the best tutorial on how to do this, holy shit, it was 3 years ago and its better than anything else i have seen that came after, may you have money raining into your bank account man!
Thanks! This will become obsolete soon, thankfully, because Microsoft now has software to calibrate controllers (on the S/X) and integrated software on the Elite Series 2. So all new controllers won't need manual calibration. Pretty rad.
I just had two Xbox base controllers repaired. Turn around time was less than a week and I had the affected components replaced. I can't recommend strongly enough this service if you're controllers are giving you problems!
@@Tarikmoe The guy running this UA-cam channel does a repair service through the link in the description. That's what I was referring to if I didn't make that clear enough. Well worth it in my opinion.
Josh Bryan I knew what you meant. I was commenting on how well he does his job and I was agreeing with you. I am trying to ask him some questions on how I should proceed thru ebay. Waiting on his answer.
@@Tarikmoe yes, I corresponded with him through eBay for the offer when you subscribe to his channel. I found him to be proactive and the repair was quick and flawless. In fact I prefer the controllers that he repaired to the ones I have not had repaired yet even though they have no drift.
Thanks - lots of good advice - the breaking down of the joystick would have saved me a bunch of time. The pot calculations and matching were something I had no idea the pot matching needed to be done.
It's the first way I figured out how to calibrate. If you watch the "newer" video I show another method (without switching pots, for the most part). Also, if you have a series x/s now they have a built in auto calibration!
@@SOSSGAMING thanks yes I watched the newer video looks like a good way to do it. but I did not quite understand why you didn't preselect / match the pots and click them onto the stick from the start before soldering them. Good to know about series x but I am still running one x and 360 ... the resistance readings will help me out. I actually did the pair on one x original - the tolerances were .16 and .26 which did not initially show until you showed me the tolerance adjuster on controller tester. Seems ok on rocket league but after that who know may have drift.
I think it's kind of ridiculous how much the quality dropped in controllers from 360 to xbox one. Issues like these are way too common. Well made video, though. Seems very manageable even for someone with novice soldering skills.
i have five controllers that ended up with stick drift. i called Microsoft and they wanted almost the same price as a new controller to fix the controller. there should be a class action lawsuit for this crap.
It’s planned obsolescence. They want to make more money in different areas and one of the easiest targets for them is the controller. Expensive enough to make money, yet cheap enough to make people want to just buy a new controller instead of repairing it.
Been practicing micro soldering for a few months, I have a Xbox One controller with left joystick drift and I ordered replacements, can’t wait to try this fix 😄
I would just like to say thank you. I watched your video, got the bits I needed and re watched as I followed what I needed to do. My Xbox Design Lab controller now works a dream, no more stick drift! I well chuffed, thank you! 😀
It's so shitty that Microsoft and other companies don't let you fix your own products. If we had access to their software and things weren't so convoluted, I'd be a happier customer and loyal one too. The only upside to this is it could teach people something new about electronics. Vote for right to repair if you ever see it pop up.
Rip controller he died on 2021 February 6, 5:16pm you have stayed by my side for 3 years and stayed loyal all the time you may join your othee brother and sisters up there you will be missed
damn!! never seen such really deep technique b4!! so complicated yet so damn amazing job! this man is literally the best , i bet Microsoft technicians do such things !
I actually do plan on that soon. And by soon that means a month or two, or three. If you check out the latest video I think it shows enough to figure out how to just remove and put in one pot. I hope.
Yes, exactly! On both axis. I am however working on a new video right now about a new method that doesn't require any measurements or calculations. It should be done by the end of the week.
SOSS gaming I'll let you know in a couple hours. There's definitely a chance I'll buy it from you on eBay but I'll check with you in a bit. Thank you for the offer. I'll let you know today when I'm gonna buy it
SOSS gaming Can you also let me know which solder iron to buy and what solder wick or solder wire did you use. It's gonna be my first time ever soldering anything so I wanna be prepared
SOSS gaming Can you also let me know which solder iron to buy and what solder wick or solder wire did you use. It's gonna be my first time ever soldering anything so I wanna be prepared
@@onstandard absolutely, all of the links of what I specifically used should in the description. Any alternatives should be fine, just be sure to check their reviews and what not. Soldering is an excellent skill to acquire, and may be pretty challenging at first. There are many great videos on here (UA-cam) that explain good soldering technique, etc.
Yes, but it is extremely difficult on elite controllers and the newer controllers that have the smaller through holes. That is why I show the tear apart method. On the older controllers it is much easier to remove the solder with a sucker and/or wick.
Microsoft sells the whole board with new sticks already soldered and also new rumble motors for 59$. Seems like the better option. While this might save you a little money it will require a decent amount of time to complete. Great guide though!
I'm stuck on step around 8:12 of video, removing pins using pliers and soldering iron. When pulling some pins out, I accidentally broke off a part of the pin while pulling it out with pliers. A portion of the pin is still in the hole and I have no place to grab onto it, any advice? Thank you for the video!
Yes absolutely. I've had this happen before as well, when I cut too close and the pin is too short to grab onto. What I do in this situation is heat the solder back up like normal and push the piece out more with the solder tip itself. If you're lucky it will all come out, or it should be enough to grab onto again. Adding more solder may help when doing this. If it's still a struggle, perhaps you still might be able to get the excess solder with the solder sucker or wick.
I feel I needed to post a review about sossgaming repair service. The quality of work and the expedited return of my controller was nothing short of an outstanding service from this guy. If you’re on the fence of whether you should send yours to be repaired, do it and you won’t be disappointed. Happy customer.
Brilliant idea of cutting up that module so you can manually desolder each pin. What a tragedy though that these official pads have such garbage quality modules and the console settings have no native dead zone adjustments for the stock game pads.
will i need to recalibrate the sensors if im only changing the little sensor wheels inside the green housing and not actually desoldering or taking apart any of the insides? and if so how do i do it without soldering or any special tools (i do have that red meter box thing tho if needed)
If that's all that's needed then no, you shouldn't need to do any calibration. You will only need the tools to open the controller: t8 security torx, t6 torx, and a screwdriver or something to pry off the handles, and a small screwdriver or something to open the potentiometer
Nice video, thank you! But I would like to point out that this is the failure of most to understand MSFT considers the controller as "consumable" item. It should not cost $60-$200(elite) but instead be 1/3 that price. I can't imagine in mass, the cost in parts exceeding $14. And why hasn't anyone made an upgrade parts set for these? (hint, cost for that would exceed new controller). I think I go through a controller about one a year (I suspect I'm in the value MSFT estimates of MTBF) and would rather replace the entire joystick mechanism and thumbstick (grip wears off too fast for me). SOSS- any recommended complete stick parts (not just the potentiometers)? Seems a waste of potentiometers to go through to get lucky on resistance number...right?
I actually recommend checking out my latest video. In a lot of cases you don't even need to change potentiometers. Also note that even if a potentiometer doesn't work on a specific joystick on a specific controller, it can still be saved for another joystick/controller in which it may be better suited for. As for any alternative sticks, I'm not aware of any of more reliable quality, as they all seem to use carbon as the resistive material.
Thank u so much ! An no doubt this is the best one out there.. My boys an I go through so many controllers cause of stick drift.. There’s no doubt in my mind with your video I can repair all of them .. Thanks again..
interesting, but i cant allow myself to replace and solder the whole joystick... twice, im going to change only the y-axis potenciometer whole, wish me luck it doesnt end up un-centered.
Hi there, more than two years later thanks for the video! It sucks that this is still a problem on expensive modern controllers. I've been working on fixing a DualSense controller (same joystick part, same potentiometer problems) but after the last joystick swap, the controller reports that it's pointing all the way to the upper-left as if there was no joystick installed at all. Have I potentially lifted the pads or screwed something up along the way? Thanks!
The dualsense controllers are quite more durable, so lifting a pad isn't as common, but still possible. If it wasn't having this issue before the install, only thing I can think of is a small capacitor or transistor or whatever you call them is either damage or fell off. Or maybe the board is scratched (damaging an internal wire). One other thing to double check before that though, is if the wheels in the pots in the right direction. If they're upside down, they will show that same issue.
Whether the Microsoft story was true of not it's totally not necessary to do all of this when you can do it without soldering and a lot less tools. You will need a Torx T8 and T6, small flat head screwdriver, tweezers, and a plastic prying tool that's it. You don't even need to take the whole analog off all you have to do is carefully push the sensor housing outward like in the video bend it back so that you access the sensor and pull it out with a pair of tweezers and replace the sensor it's that simple. He was pretty much done at 6:47
I haven't used this method in quite some time (check out newest method), but if I'm remembering correctly it's because they are the closest measurements to the "diff to center" calculation earlier.
I know you have an updated but this was an absolute treat! Beautifully executed and professional. What is the table top material you use? Stellar thanks!
Thanks so much I thought this would be way to hard at first but I have years of soldering experience so I thought why not because I had nothing to loose especially since a new controller costs €60 I got a new soldering kit which came with a solder sucker which is very handy and a must have for soldering and removed all the solder points which was the hardest and most complicated part and then I put on the new one and success this was my first analog stick replacement and I'm so happy this is a common fault with controllers so I'm glad you helped I really can't thank you enough I've been using my controller with severe stick drift for like 5 months until now and it was annoying now I can play my xbox in peace thanks so much I liked and subscribed you really deserve a lot more views likes and subs your so awesome keep up the great work
At minute 7:56 you say that the button has 4 pins and that we have to cut the high as possible I cut 1 pin too low and now I can’t take it out (literally can’t hold it in the other side of the board with the tweezers) , can you give me an advice or tell me what should I do?
Yes, you can try melting the solder and try pushing it out from the other side so you have more to grab on to. If that doesn't work you can try the old fashion way of solder sucker/wick to just remove the solder from the hole.
SOSS GAMING and what temperature should I set in the soldier? Rn I’m at 300 and It works well to “push” or “move” the solder, but I don’t want to increase it too much and accidentally burn something lol
The aftermarket analogs I've purchased on two different occasions on an elite controller I'm working on when mounted perfectly flush to the board the left analog stick slants right. Any idea why!
Potentiometer? Original xbox pots are best, but PS4 pots also work. If you mean multimeter, than any that can read resistance should be fine. I use a really cheap one in this video. I also recommend checking out the newest method video!
really nice video thanks alot your truly put alot of effort into this following your guide i removed the analog stick no problem i had really bad one so went to remove that to add another and doing so i removed one of the soldier pads any ideas how i can fix this like replacement pads ?
So unfortunately that repair is difficult, but depending which pad it was it may be possible to reroute the pin associated with that pad to a different part of the motherboard with a wire (like a strand of wire from speaker wire). If you go to acidmods.com and post in the xbox section with a picture of which pad was damaged they might be able to help you out.
Yep! Well, acceptable centering anyway. In my experience between 25-50% chance. If you get the joystick pre-centered (Each axis resistance value close-ish to zero) the chance will be a little better.
I didnt calibrate but I did everything when I use it it only works to move left and right but not up and down. Do u know maybe any reasons why this could be?
Yo my controller doesn’t have drift, but when I go forward it just doesn’t work or I slowly walk when I’m supposed to run, do you know why this happens ?
Sounds like it's a faulty joystick. If you plug the controller into your computer and go to html5gamepad.com, do you notice the same thing when moving the joystick around?
Are all pro controllers soldered the same? Because no matter the temp or how long I hold the iron to the points they do not want to come off? It looks solid and never turns to liquid to pull out the pins. Any suggestions would be great. Awesome and very clear video btw.
Yes, so first suggestion is either putting flux on the solder and/or adding more solder of your own. Over time the old solder points can become oxidized and lose the little flux they may have had in it previously. As you mentioned as well temperature is an issue. The tip of the iron should also be free from oxidation. If you're able to melt your own solder on the tip of the iron that would indicate it's hot enough. Hope this helps.
If its lead-free solder (which I suspect), it requires a soldering iron/station that can handle this. Which then costs more than two new controllers so...
@@SOSSGAMING thanks also can i ask whilst i was soldering on a ps4 controller i burnt the led strips port and was wandering if its replacable Subbed nd liked btw
@@p40zz Cool thanks! I'm not exactly sure what that is I don't have much experience in PS4 controllers just yet. If you like you can send a picture to my gmail account sossgamingcs and I can try to see if I can give a better answer
I've been trying to find the proper part to buy but they all seem to be for the regular Xbone and not the Elite. Can you clear this up I have the 1698 elite
They are essentially the same joystick. The only literal difference is a thin metal insert in the shaft of the joysticks on the elites, that sadly doesn't do anything, as I've still seen the shafts broken in two. When I do my repairs I always use the "regular" xbox joysticks (300+ times) and have never had any issues.
After replacing lots of these potenciometers, do you feel like the controllers fail because of faulty pots, or is it dirt between the clicking mechanism and the bottom end of the stick? I threw in some handy oil into my controller that had a sticky stick, and it greatly reduced the amount of stickdrift. Making me think its not the pots, it's just gunk in the movement mechanism
Almost all the controllers I received were the fault of the wear of the carbon in the pots, so nothing short of replacement would help. Only a handful of times it was other issues other than the pot. But I did have a couple where it was gunk buildup on the thumbstick/dome piece (causing it to stick a little) as it seems you had. You are correct, the readout would be having issues if the pot was malfunctioning.
will the same analog module part work on xbox one and ps4 dualshock controllers ? it's a common question but hard to find a clear answer. Some sellers states it's compatible for both controllers and others mark just one of them..
I would use the correct joystick. The differences worth noting are on the PS4 controller joysticks, the base is raised, and the spring tension is higher. You could install a PS4 joystick on an Xbox one controller, but would need to modify the base (shave or melt the base so it is flush and sits correctly). You could also install an Xbox joystick on a PS4 controller, but it will sit a little lower than normal, and I believe the lower spring tension might also create a "sticking" effect on a PS4 controller, but I am not sure, I have never tried it. Hope this answers your question.
So it's either PS4 compatible or xbox one compatible, and good thing is to avoid sellers who claims that it's for both. Thanks for answer, I get good understanding now.
In have spare analog sticks from my PS4 controllers,, can I use those? I know they look and mount similar, but can't using these damage or make my Xbox not work properly?? Very curious
They will technically work. They will feel different (higher stick tension), will sit higher (may need to shave off the bottom base a little bit to fit), and the potentiometers have a wider range (will max out sooner than xbox joysticks). Hope that helps in deciding whether you want to go through with putting them on the xbox controller. Good luck.
The analog modules that are on modules do they only work for Xbox one controllers or do they work for PS4 controllers too? Could you send a link for PS4 ones?
Technically they are interchangeable. The only difference worth noting is that the PS4 ones are slightly raised and have a slightly stronger spring I believe. I have been meaning to list them actually thanks for reminding me. www.ebay.com/itm/224051689870
Unfortunately I haven't done repairs again in quite some time. There are others on eBay who do, though. Type in "xbox joystick repair service" and you should be able to find some. Good luck!
I got my controller straight from Microsoft brand new and 3 months and a half later it started to drift hard I’m wondering if Im just unlucky or everyone’s controllers don’t last long also
Just the shaft? Technically you can, but in that case you will need to desolder the joystick whole so you can remove the plastic base to get access to the internals. In that case it would be easier to replace the joystick part, and you can leave the potentiometers in. It may throw off the readings a bit though depending on how the new joystick sits so it may still also require some calibration if it's off too much. Hope that makes sense.
Technically, yes. There are some hurdles to overcome, however. The first being that you will also need the dome piece/thumbsticks for the elite 2's. And the other more challenging being that the base of these are raised slightly, so I believe the base will either need to be modified (shaved/melted), or swapped out with original xbox joystick bases (a little tricky to do, but probably the better/easier option). They will also need to be manually calibrated
hello and thanks for the video. I bought your analog stick kit to repair my pad, but i can't take out the old stick :( i also tried with a Hakko desoldering gun on another pad, but I just can't take them off, do you have any indication from give me? P.s. I got an xbox series x controkler.
Figure it out yet? You might want to double check the hakko desoldering gun to make sure the tip isn't clogged up. I have to clean mine out fairly often with the small metal rod thing that came with it. Just heat up the hakko and stick the rod in and out (I grab mine with pliers). Another thing is you may need to add more solder/flux to the connection, so all the solder melts at once, then suck it all out. Just be careful not to overheat the pads because the pads can lift off and be damaged. Worst case, you can try the disassembly method (chopping up the joystick).
@@SOSSGAMING thanks for the tips, i have already tried adding flux, but no luck. The hakko pistol is practically new. By insisting I manage to remove it, but obviously I have damaged something, because once I have installed a new stick from the kit bought by you the pad does not work as it should, it seems totally crazy, even the buttons give wrong inputs, have I perhaps corrupted some pads?
@@mrantonelski So you did manage to remove the old stick then? It's quite possible one or some of the pads have been ruined. It should be somewhat obvious which ones are damaged. If you want to email my gmail account sossgamingcs and send a picture of the board I might be able to see which ones and we might figure out something.
I'm hoping your seeing this but all I'm trying to do is replace my friend controller and since this is my first time with a solder I dont exactly know what I'm doing but this is helped but do I need a solder sucker bc I dont know if I have one or not and another question is it would be great if it matter between the kind of solder or material of the
Of the wick because the stuff used is actually use with cars and stuff related to cars and not motherboards or electronics so idk whether I should use it or not but I rlly want to help my friend out
@@monkishspark8635 Wishing you the best of luck! Make sure to use not too high of heat. Somewhere between 350-400C is usually ok. I use 60/40 solder. Some like to use 63/37. Something to clean up the solder is necessary. Solder sucker and/or wick, but I am not sure what type of wick you are referring to.
working on my repair now. got a 1.0 on my joystick y value when testing it after adding the new stick. making my Y diff to center -5.25.... none of them are near this value. joystick bad? help
Few things I know of that could be the issue: a through hole is damaged, solder is connected between two solder points, the wheel inside the pot is upside down or damaged, not enough solder on one of the solder points, or not a good enough solder connection between a solder point and the motherboard. Hopefully this helps. Let me know!
I use these precision cutters amzn.to/2nbJkLD I would definitely recommend them they come in quite handy for quite a few things and have held up pretty well so far.
I got s controller that wont regester left to right movement on the left stick do I need to change the whole joystick. I changed the wiper but it didnt help
@@mateus.vasconcelos Mechatronics, aka folks who work with robots and machines such as vex robots, a good example is battle bots if you heard of that show.
the temperature of ur iron?? i use a 35w but damage all the solder tracks of the joystick , they get glued to the iron .... can you give me some tips?...
~350* C. If the through holes are damaged, that is not good :( Too high of heat is the usual culprit on these boards. I'm sorry I didn't explain that in this video, as I was still learning how to solder as well, and have since come to find that out. I do mention that in my latest video, but sounds like it might be too late :/
With this method, any joystick replacement will most often times require a second replacement. One is needed to measure and calculate, and the second one that matches those measurements and calculations. You might also get lucky with the first joystick though, so in that case it would only be once. Anyway, I would hold off just a little bit because I have a new video coming out hopefully by tomorrow, or early next week at the latest with a new method where you do only use one joystick. Stay tuned!
I have replaced one of htis joysticks of my controller that was drifting away and now it does not have the fine sensibility anymore, after watching this video I realized what the problem might be, there are different types of joystics and they have the calibration thing... I think I'll have to do it again.
Same problem with ps4 controller. The sticks and potentiometer looks the same. Can this work with ps4 controller also? And do you have more details on the potentiometer it self? The black stuff inside, how it work and something like this?
Yep, it is essentially the same procedure. The black stuff inside is carbon and it is used as the resistive material. The wearing down of the carbon by the wiper is the typical cause for drift.
I'm guessing they are chopped up? If so, you can use the tip of the soldering iron to heat up the solder, then simultaneously push whatever pieces through enough to grab onto. Does that help?
I'm not exactly sure what you're asking, but I'll try to answer as best I can. In short the ones that aren't used aren't useless, and may be a perfect match on different controllers/joysticks. If put on a different joystick, they can also provide different values, because another factor in the values is the positioning of the knob that turns the wipers on the joysticks which also varies slightly from joystick to joystick. Not sure if that answers your question. Anyway, I have another method that I made a video on that you might be interested in.
@@SOSSGAMING that’s the explanation I was looking for. My working was kinda bad with it but you hit the nail on the head. I would be interested in other methods as well to see.
I have a Elite gen 1 and somehow since today my controllers left stick doesn't make that clicking sound anymore when you press on it. I am going to open it up but is this problem fixable? If yes how and if no can i just pop in a regular xbox one controllers board with it's new sticks on it? I have 1 that i have for spare use. All inputs are getting registered up, down, left, right and even press so only the clicking mechanism is somehow defect.
Hello. I'm not too familiar with this problem, so I am not sure if you would be able to fix the clicking with the joystick that's already in there. Are you saying when you press the joystick in you are getting a response, but just don't hear the click? If that's the case, I personally wouldn't bother fixing it, but I understand if you'd still want to. As for swapping out with a regular controller board, they are not compatible. You can swap out with another elite motherboard though, no problem! Let me know if you have any other questions. Happy to help.
@@SOSSGAMING Yes the response is what i meant. Normally it would make that click sound when pressed on. I was thinking maybe i could clean it up, but don't know if it is reachable. Maybe something got stuck somehow. Do you know where i could find the mechanism? Also thank you for the response and info.
@@turkisch66fireworks No prob. Yeah I'm not sure what could be causing that other than it simply breaking in some way. The button is actually a button on the joystick. It's on one of the sides. You have the 2 potentiometer sides, one plain side with the ALPS logo etched in, and the last side is the portion with the button. It's what the little white piece of the joystick is pushing on when depressing the joystick.
@@SOSSGAMING So replacing the white piece maybe could solve the click problem? I have an un used X1 controller i could salvage for parts. It works like how it is now, but when I am playing I do mis the click response. Also was thinking about calling Xbox for what they could offer as help.
Thanks for the inquiry. Unfortunately I only ship local at the moment. I would recommend checking some options like this one that will ship to Australia: www.aliexpress.com/item/33000638029.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.6d2c2604Iw0uu0&algo_pvid=a91c2ae8-995b-4ffd-80ce-b7aefc15b4fd&algo_expid=a91c2ae8-995b-4ffd-80ce-b7aefc15b4fd-14&btsid=0ab6fb8815935766789483210ea205&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
Yep! Unless it's one of the huge ones meant for larger jobs, but if it's the same type as in the video it should do just fine. Biggest tip is getting the heat adjusted correctly. I'd suggest starting on a lower heat first (too high of heat damages these boards quite easily). Check out my latest video I use one of the cheap soldering irons.
Does anyone know of a better version of the joystick it seems the plastic bars that hold the stick are too week I was wondering if they make ones that don’t flex as much and won’t bend over time
Unfortunately I don't think there are. They even tried to place a metal insert into the elite controller joysticks, but it was futile as they are still able to break over time.
Super informative, excellent detail. This caliber of video work is literally the pinnacle of UA-cam's usefulness. Thank you. Is the plan still November as far as opening shop back up for this service?
Just the one that has the drift. In fact, if it's only drift you are trying to fix, an easier way to fix it would be to change out the potentiometer that's causing the issue. For instance if the left joystick y-axis is drifting, you can just change the left joystick y-axis potentiometer. There's another video I made that shows how you can manually adjust it to calibrate. (Newest Method video). Hope that helps.
I use a temperature of 650* F. The old solder can definitely be a lot more difficult to remove. In such cases I use extra flux and even add some of my own solder to get it to melt better.
I would first test on your own solder to see what temperature it melts best at. You can always slowly increase the temperature to get the best flow, but also be cautious of getting it too hot as that is a contributing factor to board damage.
Great tutorial! Just the info i needed! Question though: Why not just remove the pots and leave the joystick on the pcb, then use a different joystick for measuring the other pots? This would then result in only 6 solderpoints afterwards. Or does a different joystick introduce too big a difference in values that would nulify this method?
In my experience different joysticks do indeed have varying measurements even when using the same potentiometers between both. I do have a new video out that shows a different (easier?) approach to calibrating the pots if you're interested!
New Kit link is in the description which now includes 6 total joysticks and some tools.
NEW METHOD: Check out another way to manually calibrate (much easier IMO): ua-cam.com/video/Uoxz0oHX9TE/v-deo.html
Thank you ☮️💜☮️
@SOSS GAMING, where's the repair service link?
@@christiandoyle578 It's gone unfortunately I don't do any repairs anymore, sorry. If you type in "xbox controller repair service" in ebay's search bar you can find some sellers that still provide this service.
@@SOSSGAMING ahhh bollocks.
@@SOSSGAMING I can't find any Xbox 360 replacement sticks. Will these work for it?
This dude deserves an award for this video 😲
ABSOLUTELY !
Really 😲
Man talk about underrated. As much as a lot of people don’t know how to manipulate the inside of a controller, it still doesn’t give a proper excuse on why you don’t deserve hundreds of thousands of subscribers. Thank you
Electronic hobbyist here, do micro soldering on Mac circuit boards. Noticed that the melt point of the factory solder is much higher than the 60/40 I use on Macs and much higher than the standard melt point of 360 .. . 650 - 700 degrees does get this job done for removal, using 60/40 to resolder seemed fine. Thanks for the tutorial.
I had Xbox One Stick Drift, before buying a new set of Alps Analog sticks I salvaged one controller out of the two utilizing above method and it worked. Then I ordered a 6 pack from Soss Gaming on ebay, it was so well packed, came quickly, were genuine Alps keys. I replaced both the joy sticks on the second controller and did not go through the fine tuning process (in my opinion not worth the time unless you are way off). Checked the controller using htmlgamepad website, Joy sticks were 99.99% centered without the manual sheet calibration referenced in the video. Be sure you have intermediate solder skills and a good iron (Weller/Haako), I did not have to cut the sticks as shown as I have a solder vacuum suction pump which sufficed and there was no pressure required to pull old joystick that came out like butter. There are 14 solder points so can be daunting if you are holding a soldering iron the first time for first time, It requires precision and dexterity and common sense as is not hard.
Awesome! So glad it worked out that well for you. Thanks for sharing
After watching this, I now realize paying for a new controller is not so bad. No way am I going through all this trouble. I was hoping for a "plug-n-play" potentiometer with an auto-calibration. Your video is top-notch, but too much effort for me. Good job!
If you just have stick drift, you can get away with just replacing the potentiometer. My "newest method" video shows how you can even calibrate it without math or measurements, which may not even be necessary. Don't give up lol
I literally had no intention of actually doing something so technical but wow good video I dare say even entertaining
They goin be real mad when that class action lawsuit goes through for stuck drift
Yes im disgusted by this stick drift
Kayboards they can it’s a non acknowledged problem just like how apple throttled iPhones
Kayboards actually yes you can your selling a “premium” product without the premium durability it’s quite simple
I am not ready to do this yet (more tools then I want to get right now), but wow, the video tutorial was easy to follow and well done.
U can buy a cheap kit on Amazon for like 25€
I remember watching these years ago and thinking the same. Years later i bought soldering iron and few other bits and now am ready to do it. (1 of those things you will eventually need to repair something)
These videos are awesome. For ignorant people like myself, it would be super helpful if you added temperatures you are soldering at and maybe going a little more in depth on the "whys" when you're desoldering, soldering, adding paste, etc. Can't say enough how good the videos are and thank you for doing this
😂😂😂 I like the video but this guy had me f’d up. All these tools 😂😂😂
I just need to send you my controller 🎮
Haha yeah technically not everything is necessary but they do make things easier. Lots of people on eBay are offering joystick repairs so luckily there are others willing to do it for ya. Cheers.
I almost turned the video off when I saw all them tools, like yup this controller is trash 😂
@@SOSSGAMING if I were to not swap out the controller joy stick but instead only replace the spring inside it and put it back in would I need to calibrate it ? Thanks !
@@colebertram8482 In that case no, you shouldn't need to :)
@@SOSSGAMING thank you I’ve been holding off doing this because I don’t have the kit to calibrate . My joysticks are stock and are perfect condition but I was looking to use a different spring for a different tension.
Best tutorial for elite controller stick replacing I've found yet definitely replacing mine through this tutorial
I didn't have a wick neither did I have pliers to take apart the old joystick. I was able to slowly take off the old joystick by applying outward pressure at an angle and heating up pins one by one. Worked out well in the end. Thanks for the video
Way to go! Clever thinking. Glad it worked out for you in the end.
U can just desolder all the pins on back and pull the whole stick he literally made his life harder in the video
This was the best tutorial on how to do this, holy shit, it was 3 years ago and its better than anything else i have seen that came after, may you have money raining into your bank account man!
Thanks! This will become obsolete soon, thankfully, because Microsoft now has software to calibrate controllers (on the S/X) and integrated software on the Elite Series 2. So all new controllers won't need manual calibration. Pretty rad.
@@SOSSGAMING Nice.
I just had two Xbox base controllers repaired. Turn around time was less than a week and I had the affected components replaced. I can't recommend strongly enough this service if you're controllers are giving you problems!
That’s what what I’d like to hear
@@Tarikmoe The guy running this UA-cam channel does a repair service through the link in the description. That's what I was referring to if I didn't make that clear enough. Well worth it in my opinion.
Josh Bryan I knew what you meant. I was commenting on how well he does his job and I was agreeing with you. I am trying to ask him some questions on how I should proceed thru ebay. Waiting on his answer.
@@Tarikmoe yes, I corresponded with him through eBay for the offer when you subscribe to his channel. I found him to be proactive and the repair was quick and flawless. In fact I prefer the controllers that he repaired to the ones I have not had repaired yet even though they have no drift.
Thanks - lots of good advice - the breaking down of the joystick would have saved me a bunch of time. The pot calculations and matching were something I had no idea the pot matching needed to be done.
It's the first way I figured out how to calibrate. If you watch the "newer" video I show another method (without switching pots, for the most part). Also, if you have a series x/s now they have a built in auto calibration!
@@SOSSGAMING thanks yes I watched the newer video looks like a good way to do it. but I did not quite understand why you didn't preselect / match the pots and click them onto the stick from the start before soldering them. Good to know about series x but I am still running one x and 360 ... the resistance readings will help me out. I actually did the pair on one x original - the tolerances were .16 and .26 which did not initially show until you showed me the tolerance adjuster on controller tester. Seems ok on rocket league but after that who know may have drift.
@@simoncossettini9680 Great! Simply it's because it takes more work doing it that way, and with the "new method" it's not necessary. Happy gaming!
I think it's kind of ridiculous how much the quality dropped in controllers from 360 to xbox one. Issues like these are way too common. Well made video, though. Seems very manageable even for someone with novice soldering skills.
i have five controllers that ended up with stick drift. i called Microsoft and they wanted almost the same price as a new controller to fix the controller. there should be a class action lawsuit for this crap.
@@machoman2881 there is I seen somewhere they are being sued. Something with the sensitivity of their potentiometers.
It’s planned obsolescence. They want to make more money in different areas and one of the easiest targets for them is the controller. Expensive enough to make money, yet cheap enough to make people want to just buy a new controller instead of repairing it.
Been practicing micro soldering for a few months, I have a Xbox One controller with left joystick drift and I ordered replacements, can’t wait to try this fix 😄
I would just like to say thank you. I watched your video, got the bits I needed and re watched as I followed what I needed to do. My Xbox Design Lab controller now works a dream, no more stick drift! I well chuffed, thank you! 😀
It's so shitty that Microsoft and other companies don't let you fix your own products. If we had access to their software and things weren't so convoluted, I'd be a happier customer and loyal one too.
The only upside to this is it could teach people something new about electronics. Vote for right to repair if you ever see it pop up.
Definitely! Well said.
sad most of controllers go to trash, i mean not everyone could repair this, wish they could design it on more easy to fix
Rip controller he died on 2021 February 6, 5:16pm you have stayed by my side for 3 years and stayed loyal all the time you may join your othee brother and sisters up there you will be missed
Yoooo just letting you know your video helped me a lot I got super lucky when calibrating wasn’t as hard as I thought it would be thanks man!
Dude thaaaaanks so much my left stick kept drifting and I knew I Could replace it but didn't know how thanks so much dude
damn!! never seen such really deep technique b4!! so complicated yet so damn amazing job! this man is literally the best , i bet Microsoft technicians do such things !
I definitely need more tools than what I have, but the video was very well done very informative. Thank you
Can u make a video on how to remove just the sensor housing and not the whole joystick
I actually do plan on that soon. And by soon that means a month or two, or three. If you check out the latest video I think it shows enough to figure out how to just remove and put in one pot. I hope.
where are you getting 2 pairs of measurements for each wiper @ 14:50? are you trying every pot on both axis?
Yes, exactly! On both axis. I am however working on a new video right now about a new method that doesn't require any measurements or calculations. It should be done by the end of the week.
when can i buy the entire module from amazon again? it says that they're currently unavailable
Thanks for checking in. They are restocked and available now amzn.to/2SOhEc1
SOSS gaming I'll let you know in a couple hours. There's definitely a chance I'll buy it from you on eBay but I'll check with you in a bit. Thank you for the offer. I'll let you know today when I'm gonna buy it
SOSS gaming Can you also let me know which solder iron to buy and what solder wick or solder wire did you use. It's gonna be my first time ever soldering anything so I wanna be prepared
SOSS gaming Can you also let me know which solder iron to buy and what solder wick or solder wire did you use. It's gonna be my first time ever soldering anything so I wanna be prepared
@@onstandard absolutely, all of the links of what I specifically used should in the description. Any alternatives should be fine, just be sure to check their reviews and what not. Soldering is an excellent skill to acquire, and may be pretty challenging at first. There are many great videos on here (UA-cam) that explain good soldering technique, etc.
Around 6:00 you take apart the joystick with pliers. Can you just use wick to absorb the solder on it already? Then just take the joystick off?
Yes, but it is extremely difficult on elite controllers and the newer controllers that have the smaller through holes. That is why I show the tear apart method. On the older controllers it is much easier to remove the solder with a sucker and/or wick.
SOSS GAMING thanks a lot your video helped me start up my personal project. Without it I would be no where
I greatly appreciate your explanation as well as your attention to detail...amazing video sir!
Microsoft sells the whole board with new sticks already soldered and also new rumble motors for 59$. Seems like the better option. While this might save you a little money it will require a decent amount of time to complete. Great guide though!
Yeah one could do that or just get a new controller for sure (what they want you to do). Thanks for the comment!
Thank You VERY MUCH for your video! I was searching exaktly the tutorial how to calibrate the poties of the stick. THANK YOU VERY MUCH!
I'm stuck on step around 8:12 of video, removing pins using pliers and soldering iron. When pulling some pins out, I accidentally broke off a part of the pin while pulling it out with pliers. A portion of the pin is still in the hole and I have no place to grab onto it, any advice?
Thank you for the video!
Yes absolutely. I've had this happen before as well, when I cut too close and the pin is too short to grab onto. What I do in this situation is heat the solder back up like normal and push the piece out more with the solder tip itself. If you're lucky it will all come out, or it should be enough to grab onto again. Adding more solder may help when doing this. If it's still a struggle, perhaps you still might be able to get the excess solder with the solder sucker or wick.
Gotcha, I appreciate all your time and help.
@@oscar45833 No prob!
@@oscar45833 add more solder, heat it, make sure all the solder is molten and use the solder sucker, it will pull the pin right out
Wow, this is the very best video I have seen on how to remove these little bastards. Thank you!
I feel I needed to post a review about sossgaming repair service. The quality of work and the expedited return of my controller was nothing short of an outstanding service from this guy. If you’re on the fence of whether you should send yours to be repaired, do it and you won’t be disappointed.
Happy customer.
Thank you!
Brilliant idea of cutting up that module so you can manually desolder each pin. What a tragedy though that these official pads have such garbage quality modules and the console settings have no native dead zone adjustments for the stock game pads.
Great video! Well said and easy to follow. However I don’t have the time to do this. Can you fix mine?
Thanks! I have a link in the description.
will i need to recalibrate the sensors if im only changing the little sensor wheels inside the green housing and not actually desoldering or taking apart any of the insides?
and if so how do i do it without soldering or any special tools (i do have that red meter box thing tho if needed)
If that's all that's needed then no, you shouldn't need to do any calibration. You will only need the tools to open the controller: t8 security torx, t6 torx, and a screwdriver or something to pry off the handles, and a small screwdriver or something to open the potentiometer
Great explanation! Very easy to follow for a pretty complex subject. Thank you!
Nice video, thank you! But I would like to point out that this is the failure of most to understand MSFT considers the controller as "consumable" item. It should not cost $60-$200(elite) but instead be 1/3 that price. I can't imagine in mass, the cost in parts exceeding $14. And why hasn't anyone made an upgrade parts set for these? (hint, cost for that would exceed new controller). I think I go through a controller about one a year (I suspect I'm in the value MSFT estimates of MTBF) and would rather replace the entire joystick mechanism and thumbstick (grip wears off too fast for me). SOSS- any recommended complete stick parts (not just the potentiometers)? Seems a waste of potentiometers to go through to get lucky on resistance number...right?
I actually recommend checking out my latest video. In a lot of cases you don't even need to change potentiometers. Also note that even if a potentiometer doesn't work on a specific joystick on a specific controller, it can still be saved for another joystick/controller in which it may be better suited for.
As for any alternative sticks, I'm not aware of any of more reliable quality, as they all seem to use carbon as the resistive material.
Thank u so much ! An no doubt this is the best one out there.. My boys an I go through so many controllers cause of stick drift.. There’s no doubt in my mind with your video I can repair all of them .. Thanks again..
Awesome video! Alas, too much work for me, I just bought a new one.
interesting, but i cant allow myself to replace and solder the whole joystick... twice, im going to change only the y-axis potenciometer whole, wish me luck it doesnt end up un-centered.
Hi there, more than two years later thanks for the video! It sucks that this is still a problem on expensive modern controllers.
I've been working on fixing a DualSense controller (same joystick part, same potentiometer problems) but after the last joystick swap, the controller reports that it's pointing all the way to the upper-left as if there was no joystick installed at all. Have I potentially lifted the pads or screwed something up along the way?
Thanks!
The dualsense controllers are quite more durable, so lifting a pad isn't as common, but still possible. If it wasn't having this issue before the install, only thing I can think of is a small capacitor or transistor or whatever you call them is either damage or fell off. Or maybe the board is scratched (damaging an internal wire).
One other thing to double check before that though, is if the wheels in the pots in the right direction. If they're upside down, they will show that same issue.
@@SOSSGAMING Thanks for the feedback, I'll continue investigating!
Whether the Microsoft story was true of not it's totally not necessary to do all of this when you can do it without soldering and a lot less tools. You will need a Torx T8 and T6, small flat head screwdriver, tweezers, and a plastic prying tool that's it. You don't even need to take the whole analog off all you have to do is carefully push the sensor housing outward like in the video bend it back so that you access the sensor and pull it out with a pair of tweezers and replace the sensor it's that simple. He was pretty much done at 6:47
Hi, thanks for your video. Could you clarify why you chose the two pots 0.08 and 0.11?
I haven't used this method in quite some time (check out newest method), but if I'm remembering correctly it's because they are the closest measurements to the "diff to center" calculation earlier.
I know you have an updated but this was an absolute treat! Beautifully executed and professional. What is the table top material you use?
Stellar thanks!
Thank you! It's literally a $40 Home Depot foldable table lol
@@SOSSGAMING hi . Can I replace a broken analog with one from another controller? Thanks.
@@alexstefan8418 Yep, absolutely!
@@SOSSGAMING thank you very much
Can I get that white part inside potentiometer alone for purchase?
I sell the whole joysticks or the potentiometers, but not just the wipers unfortunately.
can u do this for the xbox elite series 2 or is the same thing?
What temp do you run your solder gun at? I just destroyed 3 mother boards 😅. Thankfully, after watching your video I found where I went wrong
Oh no! I use mine at 650 degrees.
SOSS GAMING its all good! I gotta destroy stuff to learn lol. I have a bad habit of jumping in before reading directions
@@tristenjones845 lol I hear ya!
Thanks so much I thought this would be way to hard at first but I have years of soldering experience so I thought why not because I had nothing to loose especially since a new controller costs €60 I got a new soldering kit which came with a solder sucker which is very handy and a must have for soldering and removed all the solder points which was the hardest and most complicated part and then I put on the new one and success this was my first analog stick replacement and I'm so happy this is a common fault with controllers so I'm glad you helped I really can't thank you enough I've been using my controller with severe stick drift for like 5 months until now and it was annoying now I can play my xbox in peace thanks so much I liked and subscribed you really deserve a lot more views likes and subs your so awesome keep up the great work
Always great to hear! Thanks for sharing.
At minute 7:56 you say that the button has 4 pins and that we have to cut the high as possible
I cut 1 pin too low and now I can’t take it out (literally can’t hold it in the other side of the board with the tweezers) , can you give me an advice or tell me what should I do?
Yes, you can try melting the solder and try pushing it out from the other side so you have more to grab on to. If that doesn't work you can try the old fashion way of solder sucker/wick to just remove the solder from the hole.
SOSS GAMING and what temperature should I set in the soldier? Rn I’m at 300 and It works well to “push” or “move” the solder, but I don’t want to increase it too much and accidentally burn something lol
SOSS GAMING nevermind, I created the biggest drift you can image, I fucked my controller
@@SebasOver Oh no, is the through hole damaged now? I use ~350C
@@SOSSGAMING Yes, It seems like I melted an internal circuit or something, yea I used 450 lol
The aftermarket analogs I've purchased on two different occasions on an elite controller I'm working on when mounted perfectly flush to the board the left analog stick slants right. Any idea why!
Hmmm I honestly have no idea, I've never heard of anything like this nor can think of any reason that's the case.
Do you need any special speedometer for tgis controller or the normal ones work on this
Potentiometer? Original xbox pots are best, but PS4 pots also work. If you mean multimeter, than any that can read resistance should be fine. I use a really cheap one in this video. I also recommend checking out the newest method video!
really nice video thanks alot your truly put alot of effort into this following your guide i removed the analog stick no problem i had really bad one so went to remove that to add another and doing so i removed one of the soldier pads any ideas how i can fix this like replacement pads ?
So unfortunately that repair is difficult, but depending which pad it was it may be possible to reroute the pin associated with that pad to a different part of the motherboard with a wire (like a strand of wire from speaker wire). If you go to acidmods.com and post in the xbox section with a picture of which pad was damaged they might be able to help you out.
So I can either do all these calculations or just skip it and solder it on right away and hopefully turn out lucky with good calibration?
Yep! Well, acceptable centering anyway. In my experience between 25-50% chance. If you get the joystick pre-centered (Each axis resistance value close-ish to zero) the chance will be a little better.
Is there a way around using a sauder sucker because I do not have one like could I just use a paper towel or somthing
Lol unfortunately the only other option I'm aware of is a wick :/
I didnt calibrate but I did everything when I use it it only works to move left and right but not up and down. Do u know maybe any reasons why this could be?
Oh no! Yes, 3 possibilities that I can think of: Damaged wiper, solder connections touching, or most likely that a through hole was damaged.
Yo my controller doesn’t have drift, but when I go forward it just doesn’t work or I slowly walk when I’m supposed to run, do you know why this happens ?
Sounds like it's a faulty joystick. If you plug the controller into your computer and go to html5gamepad.com, do you notice the same thing when moving the joystick around?
ChargeSZN same with mine. So frustrating
Are all pro controllers soldered the same? Because no matter the temp or how long I hold the iron to the points they do not want to come off? It looks solid and never turns to liquid to pull out the pins. Any suggestions would be great. Awesome and very clear video btw.
Yes, so first suggestion is either putting flux on the solder and/or adding more solder of your own. Over time the old solder points can become oxidized and lose the little flux they may have had in it previously. As you mentioned as well temperature is an issue. The tip of the iron should also be free from oxidation. If you're able to melt your own solder on the tip of the iron that would indicate it's hot enough. Hope this helps.
If its lead-free solder (which I suspect), it requires a soldering iron/station that can handle this. Which then costs more than two new controllers so...
Wait a sec... what about build in windows calibration? isn't it supposed to correct offcenter?
What is the tool you use to cut the housing? Nothing i had could cut through that thing
It's called a micro cutter, but a wire cutter should also work.
@@SOSSGAMING thanks for the quick response! Off to the store
Hi will this work on ps4 controllers?? Also is it possible if you have a broken ps4 controller to show a vid thanks
I will be making a PS4 one after the new one coming. Probably 3 weeks out :)
The same method can be used on a PS4 controller though. Just I won't be showing it on one specifically.
@@SOSSGAMING thanks also can i ask whilst i was soldering on a ps4 controller i burnt the led strips port and was wandering if its replacable Subbed nd liked btw
@@p40zz Cool thanks! I'm not exactly sure what that is I don't have much experience in PS4 controllers just yet. If you like you can send a picture to my gmail account sossgamingcs and I can try to see if I can give a better answer
@@SOSSGAMING thanks for the help its alright il be getting a new controller soon
I've been trying to find the proper part to buy but they all seem to be for the regular Xbone and not the Elite. Can you clear this up I have the 1698 elite
They are essentially the same joystick. The only literal difference is a thin metal insert in the shaft of the joysticks on the elites, that sadly doesn't do anything, as I've still seen the shafts broken in two. When I do my repairs I always use the "regular" xbox joysticks (300+ times) and have never had any issues.
Thanks for clearing that up
After replacing lots of these potenciometers, do you feel like the controllers fail because of faulty pots, or is it dirt between the clicking mechanism and the bottom end of the stick? I threw in some handy oil into my controller that had a sticky stick, and it greatly reduced the amount of stickdrift. Making me think its not the pots, it's just gunk in the movement mechanism
Pot readout would be glitchy if the pots were malfunctioning right?
Almost all the controllers I received were the fault of the wear of the carbon in the pots, so nothing short of replacement would help. Only a handful of times it was other issues other than the pot. But I did have a couple where it was gunk buildup on the thumbstick/dome piece (causing it to stick a little) as it seems you had. You are correct, the readout would be having issues if the pot was malfunctioning.
will the same analog module part work on xbox one and ps4 dualshock controllers ? it's a common question but hard to find a clear answer. Some sellers states it's compatible for both controllers and others mark just one of them..
I would use the correct joystick. The differences worth noting are on the PS4 controller joysticks, the base is raised, and the spring tension is higher. You could install a PS4 joystick on an Xbox one controller, but would need to modify the base (shave or melt the base so it is flush and sits correctly). You could also install an Xbox joystick on a PS4 controller, but it will sit a little lower than normal, and I believe the lower spring tension might also create a "sticking" effect on a PS4 controller, but I am not sure, I have never tried it. Hope this answers your question.
So it's either PS4 compatible or xbox one compatible, and good thing is to avoid sellers who claims that it's for both. Thanks for answer, I get good understanding now.
@@shoo7thesun Yeah they all seem to have their little differences.
In have spare analog sticks from my PS4 controllers,, can I use those? I know they look and mount similar, but can't using these damage or make my Xbox not work properly?? Very curious
They will technically work. They will feel different (higher stick tension), will sit higher (may need to shave off the bottom base a little bit to fit), and the potentiometers have a wider range (will max out sooner than xbox joysticks). Hope that helps in deciding whether you want to go through with putting them on the xbox controller. Good luck.
@@SOSSGAMING 👍
The analog modules that are on modules do they only work for Xbox one controllers or do they work for PS4 controllers too? Could you send a link for PS4 ones?
Technically they are interchangeable. The only difference worth noting is that the PS4 ones are slightly raised and have a slightly stronger spring I believe. I have been meaning to list them actually thanks for reminding me. www.ebay.com/itm/224051689870
How do I reach out to send you controllers?? I have 4 normal controllers and a series 2 elite controller in dire need or stick drift help
Unfortunately I haven't done repairs again in quite some time. There are others on eBay who do, though. Type in "xbox joystick repair service" and you should be able to find some. Good luck!
I got my controller straight from Microsoft brand new and 3 months and a half later it started to drift hard I’m wondering if Im just unlucky or everyone’s controllers don’t last long also
the actual joystick part in the middle of that, can I replace just that if I have another one laying around?
Just the shaft? Technically you can, but in that case you will need to desolder the joystick whole so you can remove the plastic base to get access to the internals. In that case it would be easier to replace the joystick part, and you can leave the potentiometers in. It may throw off the readings a bit though depending on how the new joystick sits so it may still also require some calibration if it's off too much. Hope that makes sense.
Gotcha, thank you
Hey! I have a problem with my right joystick, but it isn’t necessarily drift. Does this method fix issues involving the sensor?
Yep! Basically any issue regarding the joystick's functionality can be remedied by a replacement.
Hello I need a question answered. Can I put elite series 2 joystick in a 1?
Technically, yes. There are some hurdles to overcome, however. The first being that you will also need the dome piece/thumbsticks for the elite 2's. And the other more challenging being that the base of these are raised slightly, so I believe the base will either need to be modified (shaved/melted), or swapped out with original xbox joystick bases (a little tricky to do, but probably the better/easier option). They will also need to be manually calibrated
@@SOSSGAMING thank for the response i bought a set from u i fixed two already thank you ima try it ill update
@@SOSSGAMING thank you for the kit, its amazing i love it will keep buying so i dont run low i love with the stuff it came and packaging
@@Alexbk007 Awesome! Glad to hear!
hello and thanks for the video. I bought your analog stick kit to repair my pad, but i can't take out the old stick :( i also tried with a Hakko desoldering gun on another pad, but I just can't take them off, do you have any indication from give me? P.s. I got an xbox series x controkler.
Figure it out yet? You might want to double check the hakko desoldering gun to make sure the tip isn't clogged up. I have to clean mine out fairly often with the small metal rod thing that came with it. Just heat up the hakko and stick the rod in and out (I grab mine with pliers). Another thing is you may need to add more solder/flux to the connection, so all the solder melts at once, then suck it all out. Just be careful not to overheat the pads because the pads can lift off and be damaged. Worst case, you can try the disassembly method (chopping up the joystick).
@@SOSSGAMING thanks for the tips, i have already tried adding flux, but no luck. The hakko pistol is practically new. By insisting I manage to remove it, but obviously I have damaged something, because once I have installed a new stick from the kit bought by you the pad does not work as it should, it seems totally crazy, even the buttons give wrong inputs, have I perhaps corrupted some pads?
@@mrantonelski So you did manage to remove the old stick then? It's quite possible one or some of the pads have been ruined. It should be somewhat obvious which ones are damaged. If you want to email my gmail account sossgamingcs and send a picture of the board I might be able to see which ones and we might figure out something.
@@SOSSGAMING thank you very much! You are super nice, I'll take a pic of the board and I'll mail it to you.
@@mrantonelski Sounds good. Still haven't received an email. Did you get it figured out?
I'm hoping your seeing this but all I'm trying to do is replace my friend controller and since this is my first time with a solder I dont exactly know what I'm doing but this is helped but do I need a solder sucker bc I dont know if I have one or not and another question is it would be great if it matter between the kind of solder or material of the
Of the wick because the stuff used is actually use with cars and stuff related to cars and not motherboards or electronics so idk whether I should use it or not but I rlly want to help my friend out
@@monkishspark8635 Wishing you the best of luck! Make sure to use not too high of heat. Somewhere between 350-400C is usually ok. I use 60/40 solder. Some like to use 63/37. Something to clean up the solder is necessary. Solder sucker and/or wick, but I am not sure what type of wick you are referring to.
@@SOSSGAMING ok thx
working on my repair now. got a 1.0 on my joystick y value when testing it after adding the new stick. making my Y diff to center -5.25.... none of them are near this value. joystick bad? help
Few things I know of that could be the issue: a through hole is damaged, solder is connected between two solder points, the wheel inside the pot is upside down or damaged, not enough solder on one of the solder points, or not a good enough solder connection between a solder point and the motherboard. Hopefully this helps. Let me know!
where can I get the chart/graph paper you use in this video?
Hello, all links are in the description. If you have troubles finding it lmk!
Just a quick one, I need a decent set of cutters for this, mine are rubbish, what make/brand, size are you using please? Thanks once again!
I use these precision cutters amzn.to/2nbJkLD I would definitely recommend them they come in quite handy for quite a few things and have held up pretty well so far.
They are hakko brand micro/flush cutters.
I got s controller that wont regester left to right movement on the left stick do I need to change the whole joystick. I changed the wiper but it didnt help
You can try just changing the x-axis potentiometer usually that will do the trick.
Welp, hopefully this helps me get extra credit in my MT class for literally fixing my own controller.
Sorry for the question. But what does MT stands for? 🤔
@@mateus.vasconcelos Mechatronics, aka folks who work with robots and machines such as vex robots, a good example is battle bots if you heard of that show.
So what do you do if the controller doesn't register the new joystick? All other buttons work but the left joy that I had to replace. Any tips?
Sounds to me like some of the pads on the board were lifted/damaged. Can you tell if all the solder connections look fine?
the temperature of ur iron?? i use a 35w but damage all the solder tracks of the joystick , they get glued to the iron .... can you give me some tips?...
~350* C. If the through holes are damaged, that is not good :( Too high of heat is the usual culprit on these boards. I'm sorry I didn't explain that in this video, as I was still learning how to solder as well, and have since come to find that out. I do mention that in my latest video, but sounds like it might be too late :/
I've got an issue where the white part of the joystick mechanism has broken, do I only need to replace it once?
With this method, any joystick replacement will most often times require a second replacement. One is needed to measure and calculate, and the second one that matches those measurements and calculations. You might also get lucky with the first joystick though, so in that case it would only be once.
Anyway, I would hold off just a little bit because I have a new video coming out hopefully by tomorrow, or early next week at the latest with a new method where you do only use one joystick. Stay tuned!
I have replaced one of htis joysticks of my controller that was drifting away and now it does not have the fine sensibility anymore, after watching this video I realized what the problem might be, there are different types of joystics and they have the calibration thing... I think I'll have to do it again.
Same problem with ps4 controller. The sticks and potentiometer looks the same. Can this work with ps4 controller also? And do you have more details on the potentiometer it self? The black stuff inside, how it work and something like this?
Yep, it is essentially the same procedure. The black stuff inside is carbon and it is used as the resistive material. The wearing down of the carbon by the wiper is the typical cause for drift.
some of the pins from the original analog are stuck in the motherboard part, idk how to get them out.
I'm guessing they are chopped up? If so, you can use the tip of the soldering iron to heat up the solder, then simultaneously push whatever pieces through enough to grab onto. Does that help?
So are all the potentiometers variable with different joysticks or are the values that you got a set value with each one and useless?
I'm not exactly sure what you're asking, but I'll try to answer as best I can. In short the ones that aren't used aren't useless, and may be a perfect match on different controllers/joysticks. If put on a different joystick, they can also provide different values, because another factor in the values is the positioning of the knob that turns the wipers on the joysticks which also varies slightly from joystick to joystick. Not sure if that answers your question. Anyway, I have another method that I made a video on that you might be interested in.
@@SOSSGAMING that’s the explanation I was looking for. My working was kinda bad with it but you hit the nail on the head. I would be interested in other methods as well to see.
I have a Elite gen 1 and somehow since today my controllers left stick doesn't make that clicking sound anymore when you press on it. I am going to open it up but is this problem fixable? If yes how and if no can i just pop in a regular xbox one controllers board with it's new sticks on it? I have 1 that i have for spare use. All inputs are getting registered up, down, left, right and even press so only the clicking mechanism is somehow defect.
Hello. I'm not too familiar with this problem, so I am not sure if you would be able to fix the clicking with the joystick that's already in there. Are you saying when you press the joystick in you are getting a response, but just don't hear the click? If that's the case, I personally wouldn't bother fixing it, but I understand if you'd still want to. As for swapping out with a regular controller board, they are not compatible. You can swap out with another elite motherboard though, no problem! Let me know if you have any other questions. Happy to help.
@@SOSSGAMING Yes the response is what i meant. Normally it would make that click sound when pressed on. I was thinking maybe i could clean it up, but don't know if it is reachable. Maybe something got stuck somehow. Do you know where i could find the mechanism? Also thank you for the response and info.
@@turkisch66fireworks No prob. Yeah I'm not sure what could be causing that other than it simply breaking in some way. The button is actually a button on the joystick. It's on one of the sides. You have the 2 potentiometer sides, one plain side with the ALPS logo etched in, and the last side is the portion with the button. It's what the little white piece of the joystick is pushing on when depressing the joystick.
@@SOSSGAMING So replacing the white piece maybe could solve the click problem? I have an un used X1 controller i could salvage for parts. It works like how it is now, but when I am playing I do mis the click response. Also was thinking about calling Xbox for what they could offer as help.
Do u need a soldering iron
Indeed!
Hi. I am interested in the kit, but I am unable to get it sent to Australia. Are you able to offer it?
Thanks for the inquiry. Unfortunately I only ship local at the moment. I would recommend checking some options like this one that will ship to Australia: www.aliexpress.com/item/33000638029.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.6d2c2604Iw0uu0&algo_pvid=a91c2ae8-995b-4ffd-80ce-b7aefc15b4fd&algo_expid=a91c2ae8-995b-4ffd-80ce-b7aefc15b4fd-14&btsid=0ab6fb8815935766789483210ea205&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
And make sure to order the originals variant not the oems.
That potentiometer part is ridiculously complicated, why isn't the new stick work out of the box? I've never seen these types before.
Will any solder gun work? I have one from harbor freight. Just a cheap one.
Yep! Unless it's one of the huge ones meant for larger jobs, but if it's the same type as in the video it should do just fine. Biggest tip is getting the heat adjusted correctly. I'd suggest starting on a lower heat first (too high of heat damages these boards quite easily). Check out my latest video I use one of the cheap soldering irons.
@@SOSSGAMING ok thanks.
Can you buy better potentiometers? Instead of perpetually sticking in ones that are going to fail quickly?
That's the dream :/
Real good video man. That soldering bit is quite difficult tho.
Does anyone know of a better version of the joystick it seems the plastic bars that hold the stick are too week I was wondering if they make ones that don’t flex as much and won’t bend over time
Unfortunately I don't think there are. They even tried to place a metal insert into the elite controller joysticks, but it was futile as they are still able to break over time.
Super informative, excellent detail. This caliber of video work is literally the pinnacle of UA-cam's usefulness. Thank you. Is the plan still November as far as opening shop back up for this service?
Thank you! Check out the latest video if you want to see a little "simpler" method. Opening around Nov. is still the plan for now.
Quick question do we need to remove both or just one cause what if one has just one stick drift
Just the one that has the drift. In fact, if it's only drift you are trying to fix, an easier way to fix it would be to change out the potentiometer that's causing the issue. For instance if the left joystick y-axis is drifting, you can just change the left joystick y-axis potentiometer. There's another video I made that shows how you can manually adjust it to calibrate. (Newest Method video). Hope that helps.
Hello, how many degrees soldering iron did you use?
about 650f (350c)
what temperature does the soldering iron need to be cause i dont feel like mine is melting shit
I use a temperature of 650* F. The old solder can definitely be a lot more difficult to remove. In such cases I use extra flux and even add some of my own solder to get it to melt better.
I would first test on your own solder to see what temperature it melts best at. You can always slowly increase the temperature to get the best flow, but also be cautious of getting it too hot as that is a contributing factor to board damage.
@@SOSSGAMING thanks i was able to get it to work im just kinda new at it
Great tutorial! Just the info i needed!
Question though: Why not just remove the pots and leave the joystick on the pcb, then use a different joystick for measuring the other pots? This would then result in only 6 solderpoints afterwards. Or does a different joystick introduce too big a difference in values that would nulify this method?
In my experience different joysticks do indeed have varying measurements even when using the same potentiometers between both. I do have a new video out that shows a different (easier?) approach to calibrating the pots if you're interested!