Hey man, phenomenal video. I watched a few others and couldn’t get the old stick out (brand new to soldering), didn’t wanna break the bank on more tools, so the piece by piece method worked wonders. Quick and efficient as well as simple. Controller is working flawlessly now. Thank you so much!
Just repaired mine thanks to your guide. The non lead solder sure was a pair. I ended up trashing the busted left potentiometer (bad tracks) which was going left when pushing right. Clearing solder out of the holes after was still a big pain. Lots of leaded solder, wicks, flux. Ugh.
Yeah, unfortunately there are new guidelines I think I read somewhere which essentially require manufacturers to use lead-free solder now. Congrats on the repair, though!
Nice video that provided the multiple techniques to remove the joysticks (other videos usually only show 1, and also adding leaded solder to the Pb-free solder to lower the melting point). One of the better ones I've seen 👍. Would love to get a Hakko, but I'm stuck with trying the other methods. I wish you made this several months ago before I mangled my controller trying to fix my stick drift 😀.
Hey thanks, I'm not a soldering noob so I'm going to give it a try. Cheapest method will do. Will be a fun project if nothing else lol. Just ordered the things I need and I'll try to remember to report back.
You're welcome! I recommend as hot as you can get it, and hope nothing gives 🤣 Mine goes up to 850F, and that's what I was using. But actually one thing you want to make sure is tip size and make sure it's clean. It may be too small (so limited heat transfer) or not clean enough (limited heat transfer as well). Can use a wet sponge to clean, or I like using the wire ball personally.
Thank you good sir. I have a custom modded controller that the warranty expired on. And it costed 240 dollars. Replacing the whole controller is NOT an option. Glad to see a good way to replace it. And I can learn a thing or two on electronics repair.
So I made the procedure and I've also checked the pots to make sure they were like the ones you showcased in the video. Unfortunately I couldn't buy yours because I'm on the other side of the pond, but I made sure they were exactly like the one you described. I think the desoldering went well (destroying the defective ones on the board) and soldered the new one. Unfortunately the DualSense flashes orange 3 times and that's it. I've checked some connection with a multimeter and they all look good - I hop I didn't manage the motherboard in some ways. FYI: I ha the same green pots as you but they are 2.1k instead of 10k. One guy on reddit said his DualSense worked again after the three blinks-issue by swapping the 2.1k to 10k. Is there some specific check I can make with the multimeter? My DS is one of the very first versions as it came with my PS5 I bought in the first months from the launch - not sure if this can help.
Hey there, no worries. Thanks for the question, I'll try to help the best I can. It shouldn't actually matter the resistance of the pot. What does the flashing 3 times mean, that it doesn't turn on? Are you still able to see it on hardwaretester?
@@SOSSGAMING So as far as I can tell reading on the internet, if it flashes 3 times an orange light when you press the PS button to turn it on, it's some kind of problems. Someone says it's ribbons (which I doubt, you connect your MoBo on the USB-C with no other components connected and it works), some others say it's some short-circuit or something like that. Hardwertester can't even detect it apparently. BTW, shame on me: I might have damaged the PCB by checking some traces, unfortunately so the MoBo I guess is totally gone. I've been probably too aggressive when snapping the components during the de-soldering phase.
@@MillennialBug42 So you are able to connect it while the MoBo, Battery, and USB-C are connected? If that's the case I believe I've had something similar happen. Right at 7:40-7:42 you can see the Cable that has 10 or so metal traces that touch to the MoBo when it's put together. What I did was simply clean that connection really well on both the cable and the board, and perhaps re-fit it. Maybe it had something to do with the controller or board also not closing fully, making that contact weak. Not sure If I had adjusted something there either. Anyway, I'm hoping that's your culprit. Clean it and make sure it contacts the MoBo well and you should be good. Check back in! Fingers crossed.
Hey, do you know if this all works with dual sense edge modules ? I guess mostly the calibration software ? Maybe you can make a video for replacing the dualsense edge modules.
I'm actually not sure! And unfortunately I have no way to test for months. If you're willing to give it a shot, or you find out from someone else or one of the developers of the software, I'd love to hear if it works!
A solder sucker/pump. Or a desoldering iron/pump. Emergency options: Supposedly it's possible by tapping/shaking the board after the solder is heated. Someone even told me they used a can of compressed air. Do either of those last two at your own risk, obviously. I've never personally tried any of those.
Hi new subscriber here Can you assist with a issue I'm having with a PS4 control It had very bad drift on the left stick I replaced the the stick and it had the exact same drift as the old stick Have you have a problem like that yet Also just wanna say your stick calibration video was super helpful Thanks
Thanks! That's usually the case of it either being not calibrated, a damaged through hole, or bad solder joints. What is the value it shows on gamepad-tester?
I did the piece by piece on a DS4, wanted to get just the potentiometers out first, and on the middle pin, the last pin came out too, and it took out the copper trace off the board, so rip controller.
I actually will have those as well in stock very soon! With a new video as well in the works. The reason this could be a better option for someone is it's more cost effective (at least in the short term), and if you're repairing just drift, swapping out just the potentiometer is a bit easier and less work. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for mentioning this. From memory it still calibrated the controller and wasn't necessary. As in the controllers well after calibrating like that were still calibrated. If wrong I may need to update the video. Would you be able to test that? I'm not currently able to and won't be fore some time 😅
@@SOSSGAMING My thinking was: why would the creator of the GUI add the option to permanently calibrate the center point (flashing the values to the controller firmware) if it didn't matter? Temporarily calibrating values is just to see how they affect the settings of the joysticks, but when you unplug the power from the controller those changes revert back to what they were before calibration. When it's selected for permanent calibration, the changes are flashed to the controllers firmware. So when you unplug the controller from the computer (power source) the changes don't get lost and reset to pre-calibrated values. Maybe AL (the creator of the GUI and website) could just auto-default the changes to permanent and reduce the confusion between temp/perm. I did suggest adding the circles to see stick position and error rates and he added that. Now maybe I can get him to add the button presses so there would be no need to visit another website to test a controller. Basically one website that does it all.
@@syn80 Yeah those are pretty good suggestions. Thanks for your efforts as well. And that makes sense. However, I'm still fairly sure that I had done the calibration like that on multiple controllers, unplugged them, and plugged that back in and them still being calibrated. Unfortunately I'm gone for at least a couple months right now and can't test that. I could be mistaken and maybe had done the fast calibration procedure in the mix or something. If you or anyone could test that to confirm that'd be great :)
Hay varias razones usar estos sensores! 1. Mas economico 2. Menos trabajo (si cambias solo el potenciómetro) 3. La tensión del joystick puede ser preferible Pero, los sensores magneticos también son buenos. Por eso los vendo ahora también! Gracias por el comentario
I replaced my joystick with the one's from ReplaceBase (UK) and my micro adjustments have gone really bad now. Is this because of a low quality part or issues with instalations?
@@SOSSGAMING like in fps games when I try to make small movements to aim. I realised I have an issue with my circularity it looks more like a square at 20%. No matter how many time's I do it, it remains at 20%. I've tried two different suppliers for the joy stick so I must be using the tool wrong. have you had any issues with version 1.6 of the calibration tool?
@@L44TXF Sounds like a deadzone issue so it could be the joysticks themselves then. Do you notice the removal of carbon inside the pots like I show in the video? If not, double check your in-game deadzone settings.
What are the values on the gamepad tester? It could be a number of things like a damaged through hole pad, solder bridge, bad solder connection, the potentiometer, and it just not being calibrated.
Carpikes states people to use the calibration software at their own risk and to be prepared to throw away your controller as he says it's only been tested on TWO controllers.
@SOSSGAMING In Germany and across the European Union, the use of leaded solder is heavily restricted by the RoHS Directive (Restriction of Hazardous Substances). For private use, particularly in the hobbyist sector (e.g., DIY electronics), there is no outright ban on leaded solder. Individuals can still purchase and use leaded solder. However, many stores increasingly stock only lead-free solder, as it complies with regulations for new electronics and is preferred for health and environmental reasons. In Germany, leaded solder is almost impossible to buy. All major retailers, including Amazon, have removed leaded solder from their offerings. Importing from China is risky, and the quality is usually poor.
@@CyPress19880 Oh wow I didn't know that. I knew the industry standard now was lead free solder but didn't know it trickled down to private use. Thanks for the info.
For beginners, I highly recommend the piece by piece method. It worked for me.
Awesome!
Hey man, phenomenal video. I watched a few others and couldn’t get the old stick out (brand new to soldering), didn’t wanna break the bank on more tools, so the piece by piece method worked wonders. Quick and efficient as well as simple. Controller is working flawlessly now. Thank you so much!
Thank you for your thoughtful comment! Glad you found it useful.
Just repaired mine thanks to your guide. The non lead solder sure was a pair. I ended up trashing the busted left potentiometer (bad tracks) which was going left when pushing right.
Clearing solder out of the holes after was still a big pain. Lots of leaded solder, wicks, flux. Ugh.
Yeah, unfortunately there are new guidelines I think I read somewhere which essentially require manufacturers to use lead-free solder now. Congrats on the repair, though!
Nice video that provided the multiple techniques to remove the joysticks (other videos usually only show 1, and also adding leaded solder to the Pb-free solder to lower the melting point). One of the better ones I've seen 👍. Would love to get a Hakko, but I'm stuck with trying the other methods.
I wish you made this several months ago before I mangled my controller trying to fix my stick drift 😀.
Oh no! 😅 Well at least if it happens again this will help I hope. Thanks for the nice comment!
Hey thanks, I'm not a soldering noob so I'm going to give it a try. Cheapest method will do. Will be a fun project if nothing else lol. Just ordered the things I need and I'll try to remember to report back.
Best of luck!
Best video showing how to desolder. Thanks!
I’m struggling badly with the lead free solder not melting. What do you recommend temperature wise?
You're welcome! I recommend as hot as you can get it, and hope nothing gives 🤣 Mine goes up to 850F, and that's what I was using.
But actually one thing you want to make sure is tip size and make sure it's clean. It may be too small (so limited heat transfer) or not clean enough (limited heat transfer as well). Can use a wet sponge to clean, or I like using the wire ball personally.
The best guide and covering all methods! Thank you so much! 💪
Glad you liked it! Thanks for the comment
Thank you good sir. I have a custom modded controller that the warranty expired on. And it costed 240 dollars. Replacing the whole controller is NOT an option. Glad to see a good way to replace it. And I can learn a thing or two on electronics repair.
Thanks for the comment!
@SOSSGAMING Thank you for the video! Just ordered your links from Amazon and will get started this weekend!
@@ChefofWar33 Nice! Thanks for the support. Good luck on the repair 👍
Yep. Just fixed mine. Very nice tutorial.
@@ChefofWar33 Fantastic! Great job.
Worked thanks it wasn’t a bad drift but definitely was some dust
Fantastic!
So I made the procedure and I've also checked the pots to make sure they were like the ones you showcased in the video. Unfortunately I couldn't buy yours because I'm on the other side of the pond, but I made sure they were exactly like the one you described.
I think the desoldering went well (destroying the defective ones on the board) and soldered the new one.
Unfortunately the DualSense flashes orange 3 times and that's it. I've checked some connection with a multimeter and they all look good - I hop I didn't manage the motherboard in some ways.
FYI: I ha the same green pots as you but they are 2.1k instead of 10k. One guy on reddit said his DualSense worked again after the three blinks-issue by swapping the 2.1k to 10k.
Is there some specific check I can make with the multimeter?
My DS is one of the very first versions as it came with my PS5 I bought in the first months from the launch - not sure if this can help.
Hey there, no worries. Thanks for the question, I'll try to help the best I can. It shouldn't actually matter the resistance of the pot. What does the flashing 3 times mean, that it doesn't turn on? Are you still able to see it on hardwaretester?
@@SOSSGAMING So as far as I can tell reading on the internet, if it flashes 3 times an orange light when you press the PS button to turn it on, it's some kind of problems. Someone says it's ribbons (which I doubt, you connect your MoBo on the USB-C with no other components connected and it works), some others say it's some short-circuit or something like that.
Hardwertester can't even detect it apparently.
BTW, shame on me: I might have damaged the PCB by checking some traces, unfortunately so the MoBo I guess is totally gone.
I've been probably too aggressive when snapping the components during the de-soldering phase.
@@MillennialBug42 So you are able to connect it while the MoBo, Battery, and USB-C are connected? If that's the case I believe I've had something similar happen. Right at 7:40-7:42 you can see the Cable that has 10 or so metal traces that touch to the MoBo when it's put together. What I did was simply clean that connection really well on both the cable and the board, and perhaps re-fit it. Maybe it had something to do with the controller or board also not closing fully, making that contact weak. Not sure If I had adjusted something there either. Anyway, I'm hoping that's your culprit. Clean it and make sure it contacts the MoBo well and you should be good. Check back in! Fingers crossed.
Thanks this helped a lot! For some reason the joysticks I kept getting from mobile sentrix had issues with calibration
Oh good! Glad it helped. So you were able to calibrate in the end then?
@@SOSSGAMING Yes! i went through a different vendor for my latest attempt and it calibrated just fine
@@B.JQuintanilla Great to hear!
I had no issues with the small joints, it was the bigger ones, I'm new to soldering and it seems very tricky at first, I'm sure I will find a way
Good job! You got this.
Hey, do you know if this all works with dual sense edge modules ? I guess mostly the calibration software ? Maybe you can make a video for replacing the dualsense edge modules.
I'm actually not sure! And unfortunately I have no way to test for months. If you're willing to give it a shot, or you find out from someone else or one of the developers of the software, I'd love to hear if it works!
What can we use instead of wick?
A solder sucker/pump. Or a desoldering iron/pump. Emergency options: Supposedly it's possible by tapping/shaking the board after the solder is heated. Someone even told me they used a can of compressed air. Do either of those last two at your own risk, obviously. I've never personally tried any of those.
Hi new subscriber here
Can you assist with a issue I'm having with a PS4 control
It had very bad drift on the left stick I replaced the the stick and it had the exact same drift as the old stick
Have you have a problem like that yet
Also just wanna say your stick calibration video was super helpful
Thanks
Thanks! That's usually the case of it either being not calibrated, a damaged through hole, or bad solder joints. What is the value it shows on gamepad-tester?
@@SOSSGAMING I will have to check this
Thanks for responding
I did the piece by piece on a DS4, wanted to get just the potentiometers out first, and on the middle pin, the last pin came out too, and it took out the copper trace off the board, so rip controller.
Oh no :/ I think the PS5 controllers have a little better quality boards, hopefully that won't be much of an issue for anyone else.
@@SOSSGAMING was totally bad luck, nothing to do with your procedure.
Thank you!!
You're welcome! Glad you found it useful. Thanks for the comment
*Dude why didn't u go for hall effects ??? The ones u have will start drifting sooner or later*
I actually will have those as well in stock very soon! With a new video as well in the works. The reason this could be a better option for someone is it's more cost effective (at least in the short term), and if you're repairing just drift, swapping out just the potentiometer is a bit easier and less work. Thanks for the comment!
@@SOSSGAMING already awesome
You're welcome, Good luck 👍🏻
On the calibration section for center, you didn't tick the box for permanent.
Thanks for mentioning this. From memory it still calibrated the controller and wasn't necessary. As in the controllers well after calibrating like that were still calibrated. If wrong I may need to update the video. Would you be able to test that? I'm not currently able to and won't be fore some time 😅
@@SOSSGAMING My thinking was: why would the creator of the GUI add the option to permanently calibrate the center point (flashing the values to the controller firmware) if it didn't matter? Temporarily calibrating values is just to see how they affect the settings of the joysticks, but when you unplug the power from the controller those changes revert back to what they were before calibration. When it's selected for permanent calibration, the changes are flashed to the controllers firmware. So when you unplug the controller from the computer (power source) the changes don't get lost and reset to pre-calibrated values. Maybe AL (the creator of the GUI and website) could just auto-default the changes to permanent and reduce the confusion between temp/perm. I did suggest adding the circles to see stick position and error rates and he added that. Now maybe I can get him to add the button presses so there would be no need to visit another website to test a controller. Basically one website that does it all.
@@syn80 Yeah those are pretty good suggestions. Thanks for your efforts as well. And that makes sense. However, I'm still fairly sure that I had done the calibration like that on multiple controllers, unplugged them, and plugged that back in and them still being calibrated. Unfortunately I'm gone for at least a couple months right now and can't test that. I could be mistaken and maybe had done the fast calibration procedure in the mix or something. If you or anyone could test that to confirm that'd be great :)
por que no utilizan los sensores magneticos?
Hay varias razones usar estos sensores! 1. Mas economico 2. Menos trabajo (si cambias solo el potenciómetro) 3. La tensión del joystick puede ser preferible
Pero, los sensores magneticos también son buenos. Por eso los vendo ahora también! Gracias por el comentario
I replaced my joystick with the one's from ReplaceBase (UK) and my micro adjustments have gone really bad now. Is this because of a low quality part or issues with instalations?
Hello. What do you mean by micro adjustments?
@@SOSSGAMING like in fps games when I try to make small movements to aim. I realised I have an issue with my circularity it looks more like a square at 20%. No matter how many time's I do it, it remains at 20%. I've tried two different suppliers for the joy stick so I must be using the tool wrong. have you had any issues with version 1.6 of the calibration tool?
@@L44TXF Sounds like a deadzone issue so it could be the joysticks themselves then. Do you notice the removal of carbon inside the pots like I show in the video? If not, double check your in-game deadzone settings.
Thank you so much
You're welcome!
Ow hay you got my same holder. That blue one.
It's a good one!
Thank you so much, you rock
Thanks!
Muy bueno!❤😊
Is there a calibration for xbox one controllers
Not yet that I'm aware of :/
i remove left analog and still showing drift, thats mean its motherboard fault?
What are the values on the gamepad tester? It could be a number of things like a damaged through hole pad, solder bridge, bad solder connection, the potentiometer, and it just not being calibrated.
Carpikes states people to use the calibration software at their own risk and to be prepared to throw away your controller as he says it's only been tested on TWO controllers.
It's been tested on many many more controllers since then by now :) BUT, you are correct, there is still always a risk.
Unfortunately, you can no longer buy lead solder in Germany. Only lead-free...
For real? Can you not import any either like from Amazon or Aliexpress?
@SOSSGAMING In Germany and across the European Union, the use of leaded solder is heavily restricted by the RoHS Directive (Restriction of Hazardous Substances).
For private use, particularly in the hobbyist sector (e.g., DIY electronics), there is no outright ban on leaded solder. Individuals can still purchase and use leaded solder. However, many stores increasingly stock only lead-free solder, as it complies with regulations for new electronics and is preferred for health and environmental reasons.
In Germany, leaded solder is almost impossible to buy. All major retailers, including Amazon, have removed leaded solder from their offerings.
Importing from China is risky, and the quality is usually poor.
@@CyPress19880 Oh wow I didn't know that. I knew the industry standard now was lead free solder but didn't know it trickled down to private use. Thanks for the info.