Відео

You're welcome! Always nice to give second life to a controller.

You're welcome! I recommend as hot as you can get it, and hope nothing gives 🤣 Mine goes up to 850F, and that's what I was using. But actually one thing you want to make sure is tip size and make sure it's clean. It may be too small (so limited heat transfer) or not clean enough (limited heat transfer as well). Can use a wet sponge to clean, or I like using the wire ball personally.

Good job! You got this.

Oh no! 😅 Well at least if it happens again this will help I hope. Thanks for the nice comment!

I'm actually not sure! And unfortunately I have no way to test for months. If you're willing to give it a shot, or you find out from someone else or one of the developers of the software, I'd love to hear if it works!

At the moment I do not, but there are some sellers on eBay who have a repair service.

Thanks!

Best of luck!

The Elite Series 2 for sure, way more than any other model they've. Makes you wonder 😅

​@@SOSSGAMING Every controller. I have 2 Elite 2s here, both have it. I am on my 3rd regular xb1 controller on pc, all had lb go too. I dont wonder about this anymore. I have repaired this stuff for 30 years. This is absolutely intentional. Logitech does it too with their paper thin "springs" on their buttons, resulting in misclicks, double clicks, etc. You could theoretically fix this problem with a piece of HAIR if you were able to get any leverage to bend the "thinner than paper" springs. (thick hair lol)

@@timmyp6297 Yeah, I'm with you on that. Rather unfortunate.

Thank you for your thoughtful comment! Glad you found it useful.

Hay varias razones usar estos sensores! 1. Mas economico 2. Menos trabajo (si cambias solo el potenciómetro) 3. La tensión del joystick puede ser preferible Pero, los sensores magneticos también son buenos. Por eso los vendo ahora también! Gracias por el comentario

Oh no!

Oh good! Glad it helped. So you were able to calibrate in the end then?

@@SOSSGAMING Yes! i went through a different vendor for my latest attempt and it calibrated just fine

@@B.JQuintanilla Great to hear!

You're welcome!

It definitely can be :/

I think I remember someone had mentioned that it's to the Bluetooth. This is something I should know 😅 Unfortunately I'm unable to test that. However, I think you still may be able to strip the wire a little and solder it on?

@SOSSGAMING thanks!! I'll give that a shot. Just managed to lift a pad on the second of 4 I'm trying to fix - not going so well 😆 I just left that wire connected on this one.

@@ReticentRobot It's definitely tricky on these xbox controllers. The pads are crappy. Perhaps try to turn the heat down a little just to where it barely melts the solder then adjust slightly above that. Its the glue under the pads that melt when too much heat / too long of heat is applied. Easier said than done for sure. Good luck on the next ones!

@@ReticentRobot Also here's a "fix" for damaged pads that I did a write up on sossgaming.com/xbox-joystick-jump-wire/

​@@SOSSGAMING Awesome! That looks very doable, just gotta find my scrap wire. Thanks again!!

Someone else had mentioned that too 🤔

Thanks for the comment!

@SOSSGAMING Thank you for the video! Just ordered your links from Amazon and will get started this weekend!

@@ChefofWar33 Nice! Thanks for the support. Good luck on the repair 👍

Yep. Just fixed mine. Very nice tutorial.

@@ChefofWar33 Fantastic! Great job.

Sometimes it can be a little difficult :/ Sorry for the struggles!

What are the values on the gamepad tester? It could be a number of things like a damaged through hole pad, solder bridge, bad solder connection, the potentiometer, and it just not being calibrated.

For real? Can you not import any either like from Amazon or Aliexpress?

@SOSSGAMING In Germany and across the European Union, the use of leaded solder is heavily restricted by the RoHS Directive (Restriction of Hazardous Substances). For private use, particularly in the hobbyist sector (e.g., DIY electronics), there is no outright ban on leaded solder. Individuals can still purchase and use leaded solder. However, many stores increasingly stock only lead-free solder, as it complies with regulations for new electronics and is preferred for health and environmental reasons. In Germany, leaded solder is almost impossible to buy. All major retailers, including Amazon, have removed leaded solder from their offerings. Importing from China is risky, and the quality is usually poor.

@@CyPress19880 Oh wow I didn't know that. I knew the industry standard now was lead free solder but didn't know it trickled down to private use. Thanks for the info.

Glad you liked it! Thanks for the comment

Hello, so normally when this happens it's a sign that one or multiple through hole pads are damaged. If you can see which ones are damaged its still possible to make it work. I did a write up here: sossgaming.com/xbox-joystick-jump-wire/

It's also possible the connection between the joystick pin and the pad is just bad (may need flux to help it join together), there is a solder bridge between two points, the wiper is either missing or upside down, or least likely the pot itself is bad. I've actually seen a pot missing the carbon a couple times. Hope this helps.

On these controllers about 370-400C (700-750F)

@ for some reason I got it all installed but the analog stays going to the right in lost as to why would it be a bad solder connection

@@HBLOS14 Yeah it could be a bad solder connection, solder bridge, or more likely a damaged through hole pad. If it's a pad I did a write up here on a workaround sossgaming.com/model-1797-elite-series-2/

Awesome! Glad that worked out for you.

Is it twisting and not doing anything? If that is the it is stripped and if it's just the left joystick you can remove the joystick by de-soldering it from the underside (After removing the right thumbstick cap and lifting separating the backplate) If it's the right joystick I'm not sure what you can do. If it's not slipping and just super tight, you can try heating it up with a lighter to loosen the glue in it (be careful not to melt the plastic around it. Hope that helps.

On the new X/S series controllers there is fortunately now calibration software in the accessories app, no manual calibration needed on them. On all older xbox controllers the manual calibration is needed in 60%+ cases to center them. Custom controller companies "should" be doing this on the older model controllers if they replace the joysticks somehow. Hope this helps!

:(

Thanks! Great job on the repair.

@@SOSSGAMING Yup!😁

Haha thanks glad to hear that!

Thanks! Unfortunately on the older controllers, yes. The calibration does work on the new series X/S controllers which is nice!

Yeah, unfortunately there are new guidelines I think I read somewhere which essentially require manufacturers to use lead-free solder now. Congrats on the repair, though!

It's a good one!

Thanks! The only "new" thing is that on the series is that on the x/s controller you don't need to calibrate anymore :) Either by just moving the joysticks around, or in the accessories app there is a calibration procedure.

Hello. What do you mean by micro adjustments?

@@SOSSGAMING like in fps games when I try to make small movements to aim. I realised I have an issue with my circularity it looks more like a square at 20%. No matter how many time's I do it, it remains at 20%. I've tried two different suppliers for the joy stick so I must be using the tool wrong. have you had any issues with version 1.6 of the calibration tool?

@@L44TXF Sounds like a deadzone issue so it could be the joysticks themselves then. Do you notice the removal of carbon inside the pots like I show in the video? If not, double check your in-game deadzone settings.

It does require some patience. Thanks for the comment!

Thanks!

It's actually not as hard as you'd think :)

It's been tested on many many more controllers since then by now :) BUT, you are correct, there is still always a risk.

Not yet that I'm aware of :/

If you're trying to test it, the battery (back plate) needs to be connected to the boards now.

@@SOSSGAMING no I assembled it didn’t even test but yeah I’m lost imma play with it after work

@@MugiwaraElvin Oh ok, I'd check the cable, the connection, and the power source first

@@SOSSGAMING got it working! The button that was broke is working but now my LB doesn’t 😂

@@MugiwaraElvin Nice! I'd double check the solder joints, making sure there's a connection with the pin of the switch to the board, and no solder bridge between the joints. Clean well with isopropyl alcohol. You are using flux, right? It's possible one of the pins through hole is damaged. Particularly the top left pin can be damaged. If that's the case let me know.

Right on! Good luck on the repair!

True as well!

Very true! Unfortunately it was an oversight on my part. Good luck on the repair!

Yeah :/

Not without removing the joystick, which requires desoldering :/

@@SOSSGAMING 😭