Відео

@@jamescrane3086 yea I found *a lot* of oil in there. Like 3L.

@matttriestodothings you might want to change the clutch plates to one without a riveted spring plate. That's about the only disaster those things usually have

@@jamescrane3086 I'll put that on the list of considerations. I'll do some research on that. Thank you James.

@@mmotorcycles9497 it was still the coolest motorcycle experience I ever had. I got two problem free days there I'll never forget. Even if I was absolutley spooked to go on that banking the first day!

@@gabe5360 that special cam tool was some bullshit they came up with to try to address manufacturing issues they had with the journals. I do not know of anybody that has used one. I'll see if I can find a recent post on vfrworld by someone much smarter than me addressing that special tool and post back.

"Early designs were not machined using a line boring technique (pre 86), where the head and cam holder were machined together for the cams and always stayed married to each other. The early models were machined to a tolerance and employed semi "floating" cam caps. Sometimes a particular group of parts came together where the tolerances of the mating parts all ended up being perfect together as a system. Sometimes tolerance stack allowed the opposite to happen, leading to odd wear and difficulty adjusting the valve lash. Honda came up with some BS "Cam Holder" tool, but it was just a PR move. Just use 2 feelers at the same time as straycat suggests." -Captain 80s, VFRWorld Oct 24, 2024 Post #3 in this thread: vfrworld.com/threads/1985-vf500-first-bike-concerns-etc.62043/

I have not--just looked it up. That looks pretty sweet. It's expensive, but it's not *significantly* more expensive than the Carbtune. Tell you what, if I ever end up buying a CBX, I'll buy the 6 channel Digi Sync to go with it, hah.

@@matttriestodothings I just bought me the 6 channel one a couple weeks ago for my old 1988 transalp. Only has 2 carbs but at least I'm future proof. It's incredible how much of a difference it makes when it's properly synchronized! Looking forward to you getting one whenever you do man

My worry about getting the lower clamps too loose is if they spin into a spot you can't tighten them once it's seated. But yea, I'm guessing you can get this down to a science to make it far easier than this even.

@@matttriestodothings Just finishing up my 4th VF500F restore. Its been about 4 years since the last so I find myself watching videos to remind me how to do things, no pun intended.

It's a Vance and Hines. You won't be able to keep a centerstand on with this exhaust.

Is there not a center stand on the bike in this video?

@@markvasquez5234 hah, touché. There is, but I didn't install the springs because they interfere with with the exhaust. Sorry it's been a minute since I shot this video. The bike no longer has a centerstand on it and I use a paddock stand. If I could install the centerstand, I would.

Gotcha. Yeah I noticed your exhaust right away and it looks good. I can't stand the stock exhaust tips so I was curious to the brand and what mods might need to done. Appreciate the response. Keep up the good work

No problem man. Good luck with the replacement.

@@tonydryden8332 hell yea man. Makes me glad my dumbass actually made something useful! Good luck with the seal change Tony.

@@boosthacker3974 absolutley man. Hope everything with the carb cleaning goes well for you.

Realistically, you can just make sure the cam lobe isn't pushing on the valve. It doesn't necessarily have to be at TDC in order to check clearances. It's "correct" to use the markings, but not imperative.

I think you'll see different float heights depending on the generation of the bike. Don't quote me on it, but I am pretty certain that the MK2 (like in this video) had the 17mm float height, but the previous generation had a different number. As far as I know, the float heights I set to in this video worked well for me. I think I put about 2,500 miles on the bike, and my buddy now owns it and continues to ride it without issue. The air/fuel screws you're going to get a lot of variation in where people settle on those. I generally run as close to the lean stock setting as I can while knowing the factory always sets these things up too lean for emissions reasons. Pretty sure I settled at either 2 or 2 1/4 turns. I've heard of people running up to 3 without issue. My theory is that once you get over 3, you want to increase the pilot size to get the A/F screws back into the proper range. If you run those A/F screws way out, the spring tension gets weaker and those things can end up backing out over time. Sounds like you've been busy if you've cut up and welded a tank! That's well beyond my ability. Hopefully you're well on your way to getting the bike roadworthy and back for it's triumphant return 13 years later. Jesus, 2011 was already 13 years ago? jeeeeze. That hurt to type.

@@norcal8718 this one I did one practice on. Before I started doing it this way? Like a weeks worth of swearing and sweating and nearly destroying it, lol

And I saw your bike for even less time at Daytona, heh.

​@@matttriestodothings found out there's no Pitt on the schedule for next year 😕

@@TF_2ofSpades I read that too. That's pretty damn crushing news since it's such an awesome track and facility. 2 was a pretty big ask from most of the midwest guys west of Chicago--I get it. But I really hate that we don't even get one for 2025.

@@TF_2ofSpades oh ffs. It's not on WERA's schedule for next year either. My plan was to just try to do the WERA round instead of ASRA if they had it since it's my favorite track. This sucks.

I was able to get something from mcmaster carr that worked well enough. So I'm good. Thank you very much though Tony, I appreciate the offer.

Thanks man, I appreciate it. You've got a frozen SV too!? Hah, I sure wish there didn't seem to be such an epidemic of frozen SV engines abound. Good to hear you've got it running. Now you've got the offseason to get that bad boy ready to go in 2025. Sounds like you're well on your way.

@@siafu-1764 I wish I could give you a good answer, but it's been several years since I've owned the bike and dont recall if I struggled with the airbox. That being said, I do remember the parts I actually struggled with--particularly the fuel tank rear bolt which seemed too short to me. Sorry that answer is of no help.

@@matttriestodothings I appreciate it very much. I have aftermarket boots that some guy used for pod filters on my bike. They fit good into the oem boots so i might just double boot haha.

That TPS is not affecting the idle rate. Things that have led to a high idle for me: Idle adjust way too high Throttle cable restricted and not allowing the butterflies to completely rest Sync screws way off Choke plungers either scored or not pulling all the way back

Could be. The Mikuni's in my SV650 are awesome. I never fought with a carburetor more than I did with this Bandit.

@@treering hah, sure thing man. Yea I was doing a few other things as well so it looked like a skeleton

@@AICD1999 well, that's a good question. Offseason will start in a few weeks because I made the executive decision that I'm gonna race Daytona. I've got a project SV Superbike I'd really like to see rideable. I have an SV engine I need to replace the transmission on, and I've never cracked open an engine before. And the project I've been neglecting most is the 1986 VFR700 I feel I've done most of the mechanical stuff on, but I'm at the part I absolutley suck at which is fixing destroyed bodywork. I just haven't found the motivation for that yet since it seems so daunting. My VF has been great so far this year. I haven't ridden much of anything on the street tho. The VF is about the only bike I even bother riding on the street since it's fun and just feels like home. Took it to a bike show and a few Harley nights at the museum, hah. Sounds like you're getting mighty close on your most recent VF project, that's awesome.

@@matttriestodothings fairings/plastics are a pain. Watch Windy Urtnowski videos on plastic repair. I use a hybrid approach between JB Weld sometimes and another technique. The other is used in miniature model flying airplane repair. I use fiberglass clothe and super glue. Apply to the back and let sit. You can fill the front crack with superglue as well. It will sand just like resin.

I've watched some of his videos. True-Moto-Resto (he's on the VFRWorld forums) does a ton of awesome work as well on gorgeous restorations. It's just the little things that take forever that I don't know how to do. Like, I ordered a $300 rear fairing from Airtech. It doesn't have any mounting posts, it's just the glass. I have to figure out how to make little mounting posts that correctly go into the mounts with the correct pressure to hold it. That will take me two months, tons of trial and error, a ton of wasted money, and likely very little payback. I'm to the point where I don't know if I'm even going to bother with the VFR700 since the fleet of SV650's I'm trying to maintain and eventually race is already too much. I'm just losing the time and patience. I think I need to cut the projects down. It's why I love where my VF500F is at. It's friggen perfect since I've spent so much time on it. Looks exactly like I want it to. Has everything it needs. More fun on the street than any other bike I own. And I ride about 500 street miles a year at this point.

@@matttriestodothings I use the abs plastics from the old fairings to make new eyelet style anchor points. and its also your reference of where to put them. Then I use the superglue and fiberglass sheet on the inside to secure. That works well. For the post style anchors I use JB weld and then a sheet of fiberglass and superglue surrounding it and out from it at least an inch or two to help secure it. I dont spend a lot of time making it look OEM as all of this is on the inside where nobody will see it. I may file or sand some so it isnt a total mess as well as some kind of spray over similar to the color around it. The cracks seen on the outside if the fairings I will fill with superglue and level by hand sanding just like Windy does. The key is securing all of this from the inside where nobody sees.

Thanks Craig, I appreciate it.

@@surek0959 thanks man.

I wish I had an answer for you. I plan to determine what the actual cause is this winter. I swapped the engine with another one I bought--that was my "fix". I left the old engine intact incase I needed to swap it back into my bike if the new one had a problem. Even though the old one didn't shift right, I could at least ride it--just couldn't clutchless shift. I purchased another gen1 transmission set from mad8v.com and plan to crack the case open on the original engine this winter. Maybe it'll turn out to be something really dumb that I could have fixed externally, but I really don't think so. Sorry I don't have a better answer yet.

@@matttriestodothings okay well i definitely appreciate the response and when you do, please don’t hesitate to make a vid because there are alot of us who are interested

Will do. Given how much time I've wasted trying to figure out what in the world is wrong, I'm as hungry for an answer as you are. It's definitely an annoying problem to have.

Absolutely man. May your carburetor synchronizations go swift and simply.

Now I've watched the whole video, I realise it was you, damn! Should have been braver :)

Yessir, that was me. Oh come on, just come by and say "hi!"--it was pretty much just my buddy and I arguing over whose body hurts more at this time of the year. Oh god. I'm watching your most recent video right now. You were parked right in front of my truck. I need to apologize for that obnoxiously loud generator. He fired it up, and I just plugged into it. By the time lunch hit, I realized it was blowing out my damn ears and we swapped over to my quiet Champion 2500. Jesus I'm so embarrassed watching this video right now hahaha I am so so sorry.

Alright, as i'm getting further into the video I'm realizing that wasn't all us since my generator was switched to by noon, and then off for good about 2:30pm. Even still, hah I'm so sorry.

@@matttriestodothings haha honestly my generator was one of the culprits I’m sure. It’s also obnoxious but I’m definitely used to loud paddocks and generators. Yeah for sure next time I’ll say hi, but I also know how it is during the day and I’m also rather socially awkward so that doesn’t help either 😂

No worries man. This one confused the hell out of me 4 years ago.

For sure Joe. That's awesome you're considering giving it a go soon. I'll have to do some research on 419--didn't even know it was a team. I just watched the STG video about their AIM mount and was convinced to give it a go. The thing is a better solution than any other I've seen by far. Don't worry about doing justice to the bikes. The vast majority of us aren't and never will. I'm one of them. The thing about racing vs track days that surprised me was how much it turned into a "me vs me" as opposed to "me vs. the field". After that first few turns, it's settled into single file for the most part and then it's working on improving over the last time I was out there by trying to hang onto the next guy and learning something from them. I've got the same thing with my fitness for this offseason. If you've got any specific questions, let me know. I'm not well-versed in the 2nd gen SV's (which I assume yours is), but general stuff I may have answers or know where to point you. I see from your page you've run Mid Ohio--that's one I'm hoping to add next year and hopefully make it my first race with WERA. Looking forward to seeing you out there 2025 or 2026 or whenever you decide to give it a go!

@@matttriestodothings We do Mid Ohio several times a year. We generally make our trackday schedule for the year in February. We should hook up at Mid Ohio next year, we generally rent 2 garages and would always make room for another! The 419 guys are great! Damn fast too!! Jerry has raced with MotoAmerica a few times, and he cleans up at Vintage Days at Mid Ohio. Mostly they run WERA endurance events if I understand correctly. He and John have helped me tremendously! They also make a GoPro mount that we use, but you will have to contact them as it’s not on their website. It’s very much like the solo mount. Yeah both mine are 2nd gens. Various state of builds to them. My fitness has slacked off bad the last year with starting a new job. I honestly feel like it’s holding me back a lot. The goal is to get my core strength back and drop a solid 40lbs by May next year. Should be obtainable with some dedication. I’m located 30 minutes south of Indianapolis, so if you ever need or want an extra set of hands at the track, I would be happy to come lend a hand!

That's awesome--I'm eyeing up Vintage Days for 2025, but we'll see. It sounds like a riot. I'll be waiting to put my schedule together as well and do it sometime in the winter as well after the schedules have been released. There is only so many times I'm willing to drive through Chicago in a given year, and I want to get out to PittRace again. It's just my absolute favorite that I've been to. I'd say there's a good chance we'll be bumping into each other at one of these tracks in the upcoming years. If it's at one of them I've never been to and you have, you'll have to show me how to get around. 40lb is a lofty goal, but even 10-20 is going to have you feeling way better out on track. What do they say... 10lb is worth 1HP? Well 1HP might not be worth much on an R1, but on an SV like ours? That's not a negligible difference!

Thanks man. It was great to meet you, and you taught me quite a bit out there. Also pretty awesome to watch your battle with the 01 on Sunday when you were on the Yamaha. You guys always seem to get some interesting weather when you head out east to NJMP, so I'm glad to hear it was a blast!

Yea I just was so focused on following and trying to make time/keep time with the two bikes in front of me, I didn't leave myself enough remaining brain points to deal with a variable in the equation. I've seen that type of thing on tons of track days, race days,etc., but always when I had some additional mental capacity to play with. It is what it is. Nobody hurt, couple hundred bucks in parts, a weekend of fixing some things, and some additional rash on already rashed fairings. If you see me backing it in, I can promise you it's not intentional, haha.

I knew you'd enjoy the intro 🙂 So glad you bought that SV and persevered through the early year mechanical/electrical issues you had. I knew based on how quickly you were progressing and the work you put in on the track days leading up to the september round that we were going to end up battling, and it was great. 17's seems really far away, but it's good to have dreams, haha.

Wish I had a time machine to go back to Blackhawk Farms during that era. I hear so many stories about how huge the grids and attendance used to be, I have to imagine it was incredible.

I'm glad to hear it was useful.

Thanks man. Finding another second is going to be a really tall order, but that'll be a problem for 2025 me to solve. I need to gain some more confidence in the rear, and hopefully it will help me pick up little bits of speed everywhere. Awesome racing with you this year man. Congrats on your lightning quick results a few weeks ago!

If you're talking about the long right hand turn 3 (carousel), that's me not being comfortable enough to give it enough gas for fear of slipping the rear. I was particularly bad on it in these videos, but what I should be doing is adding enough throttle to push me outward about a lane towards the end of it. It sounds counterintuitive, but being out a lane actually makes the little kink before the bus stop easier to hit at higher speed. My entry into the carousel was also too inside most of the laps in this video. If you're talking the little right hander after turn 6 (turn 6 silo I *think* it's called), it's a near full throttle knee-down right hander that just doesn't feel like you should be able to make it through it without letting off the throttle. I'd venture to guess it's the part of the track most people lose time on, and they may not even know it. I wasn't aware just how much I was compromising my lap in that section until I had somebody else's data (with similar bike) to compare against.

Hah, I know you know this as well as me now!

The AIM data is really useful in trying to pinpoint things that aren't obvious on the bike or in videos. I really can't even tell the difference on T6 silo from most videos but you can absolutely feel it on the bike when you're not having to throttle chop to make that little turn. I'm not sure it was a fluke, but it's certainly one I'm not planning on doing again in the future! Thanks again for all your help this year and especially your feedback from riding the bike. That helped a ton.

@@jakejansen196 thanks for the feedback Jake. This week is the first time I'm hearing about the slick patch! I fugured it was just a spot where people like myself continued to add too much lean to combat push and ended up sliding the rear. I guess I'll keep that in mind for next time. I'll go back and watch my T1 entry and work on figuring out a reference tip in point. Figure out how to keep that roll speed up. Congrats on another beastly weekend at Blackhawk last weekend!

My immediate first two thoughts on the ways I've ended up with a super high idle: 1. Idle set screw is way too high. This is really difficult to ballpark after a rebuild, so bring 'er way down to see if it's responsive. 2. I once had my carburetors so poorly out of sync on first start, it shot to a super high idle and I couldn't bring it down below 3500rpm until I resolved that. An air leak will make things erratic but I'm not sure they'd fire your RPMs up towards 4k.

Thanks geoffrey.

I know that Captain 80s on the VFRWorld forums raves about the best race tires he'd ever used were Avons; however, that may have been 20 or more years after the bikes were released. I really have no idea what they used. The only bike I know of that's still semi-actively racing in AHRMA has both front and rear swaps to allow it to use modern 17" rubber sizes. I'm sure Bridgestone was a player at that time. No idea who else it would have been though. I've never worked on an 86. I'm curious to see the differences on the carburetor and fuel delivery. Good luck with the paint and rest of the restoration!

Hot Cams 30 Pack Shim Kit 5/ea in .05 Increments from 1.50-1.75mm 7.48mm OD

I had pace in sections on them, but not enough to actually pass them. It's one thing to catch somebody, it's a completely different thing to pass them. I'm still very green on making passes and learning to get comfortable picking my spots. I made some bike changes to the last round at Blackhawk that would have helped me quite a bit at Pitt to get towards that 2 minute mark. If you're a leg dangler I'm getting more motivation to keep up with you! It freaks me out when I'm not expecting it lol. I can't emphasize how cool Pittsburgh is as a track. If you ever get the opportunity to run it, give it a shot. Both ASRA and WERA run there.

​@@matttriestodothings You had a great race year! I can't wait to have a full one next year as well :D And maybe we can end up at the same track at some point

@@DylonND 2025 is going to be a fun one! Maybe i'll figure out logistics to get down towards your part of the country sometime. Barber, little Tally, Jennings... we shall see. Little Tally actually interests me because it's so left-hand turn dominant compared to everywhere else.

The specific range you're reading in isn't actually that important for this test--only that they're all reading the same. You're just trying to get the butterflies all set identical to open at the same time. The colors aren't important since the gauge backgrounds aren't specific to this (or any) other bike. If there was a vacuum *leak*, the needle wouldn't move as much on one as the others.

@@matttriestodothings Well that sure makes some good sense to me about how the needle wouldn't move as much if there were a leak, Thanks!!

@@CarsGuitarsARs Sure thing man. Good luck with whatever you're working on.

@@matttriestodothings Fixing up my dad's old 91 Suzuki sport bike!!

@@CarsGuitarsARs Hell yea! That's excellent.

Thanks man. Looking forward to sharing the track with you at the farm in a couple days!

@matttriestodothings I just want to end up in 1 of your videos, lol. That's the only reason I'm racing, hahaha. See you Friday.

@@Maximumtrack Considering our personal bests are within 0.2seconds of one another at Blackhawk and you actually know how to launch a start, there's a pretty damn good chance I'm going to be chasing you a bunch this weekend. Just drag me down into the 18s and I don't care where I finish! See you then.

Yep, I've spoken with him a few times. It sounds like you guys have been mighty busy! There won't be much to fix on that bike besides a broken mirror and replaced front master cylinder. It'll just live the rest of its life with some war wounds and blemishes. Regarding the valve stems, the only ones that I could get to actually work were these which I ordered in 2022. None of the big brand name ones fit right, but someone on VFRWorld recommended these. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWY6SM8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The ones I ordered are no longer available; however, these look extremely similar. www.amazon.com/valve-Degree-Motorcycle-angled-valves/dp/B09CZ1W7KM

@@matttriestodothings Thank you. I may try to tighten up my existing ones but I will definitely order those as backups. Yes we have been busy. The 86 should be mostly reassembled next weekend and mine is close. I need to check the valve gaps again because I believe I may have gapped them in the wrong order. The Clymer manual I was using back in February had the wrong instructions. The Honda shop manual has the correct procedure. I will let you know if that fixes the ticking noise since you may have the same cause.

@@vipershockvipershock3387 I don't think it'll matter what order you gap them in. The manual just has the procedure that minimizes the amount of times you need to rotate the engine by giving you specific points to allow checking multiples at a time. I would definitely use two different feeler gauges though because those rockers have a little bit of rotation or tilt, so leaving a feeler under the opposite side (not tight, just so it doesn't rock) will help you get a more accurate reading. That being said, I'm not going to try to talk you out of using the correct manual procedure. Honda engineers are a lot smarter than me, so listen to them.

@@matttriestodothings I used two feeler gauges when I did it the first time. When I think I went wrong was I gapped both sides of the rear bank at the same TDC R. I can’t remember but I noticed when doing my friends 86 that if that is done, there is some slop in the rockers when you start rotating it. The sound only comes from the rear bank so I figured I would just check before I mushroom a valve stem.

Not a problem. Hopefully your fork seal replacement goes smoothly!

Never say never to Pitt :-P