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I wouldn't say I ever got it perfect, but I was able to get it a lot better by messing with the settings and turning the brightness up quite a bit and installing new electronics in the guns. If the lighting is bright behind the person playing is real bright though, it's still a bit of a challenge.

I struggled so hard on this bike. That's great advice though. I should have probably done that instead of the carpet bombing guesses I was making.

@@matttriestodothings No worries. You show your method, friend. In my time, there was no internet, no chat sites, nothing. It was only friends and family and massive mistakes. Now, though, you have massive knowledge along with stupid people. The main thing is you learn and move forward.

@@olafjensen4508 Just split a case open to replace a transmission on my SV650, so the mistakes and moving forward continue 5 years after I shot this video, hah. It's always a massive learning experience the first time. Doubt that'll ever change.

I did resolve the squeaking. I can't with 100% certainty say since it's been 5 years (still no squeaks) and I had those brakes on and off so many times back then... But I remember thinking it may have actually been the dust shield that was bent and rubbing causing the squeak.

I think you'll get all kinds of opinions on tank risers with a ton of subjectivity. Even if you tested them on and off a dyno, you'd need to mimic air flow over the bike and tank to have a legitimate comparison. Slipper we'll see. I definitely want one. Need to figure out how much money all this tooling up is going to set me back. It probably would have been cheaper to just buy a $1,500 engine than trying to do this myself. But when the offseason lasts 7 months... you want to stay busy.

@@matttriestodothings It's Spears and Yoyodine for the slipper right? I don't think there's other options. It would be really cool to hear your feedback if you got to ride one with it, I'm always chirping that rear tire early. Yeah, I think the engine stuff is like ripping the bandaid off you'll be ready for anything :D -

Those are the two I know of, yep. I've never ridden with a slipper, but I'd like to try it. Downshifts are always an adventure if you're coming in a bit hot and the rear is still dancing around, so a lot of focus is on the left hand trying to find that nice release with the left lever to get things settled in time to turn.

Doncha worry. I'm going to have a plan within like a week or so, then I'm headed up your way and we're meeting up.

Good explanation. Yep, this has started to make a lot more sense to me since having taken apart a few SV650 engines and removing the valves.

There's certainly tons of knowledge out there in the community. If this was just a commuter bike, I'd throw the pistons back in and call it good enough. I figure while I'm here and have the time this offseason, I might as well learn how some of all of this stuff works.

Hah, I'm sure that was only slightly completely maddening. Syncing those things is a bitch! Dumbest one I'm guilty of myself is installing a new Brembo master on my SV earlier this year. I didn't realize that there was a small, clear plug inside of the line. Everything I was trying was failing until I decided to take it all apart... found that plug. Felt like an idiot. Got it pumped up in like 10 minutes after that.

@@matttriestodothings Did a 1996 Ninja Zx6R about 5 years ago that had the same issue as this 86VF. Except it would eventually just die about 5 minutes as well as the stuttering. This was the issue the prior owner had and he gave up on it. I eventually bought another set of carbs. When I was cleaning the donors I noticed the slide springs were way longer. So I popped the lids off and switched the springs. It ran like a scalded dog. Someone did the dynojet kit on it and also cut the springs, although too short. So $900 and a set of $200 carbs and it was solid again.

@@AICD1999 As soon as I see something indicating Dynojet internals, I immediately start questioning everything. They dynojet parts are fine--people just stop thinking when they install them. And often there are some destructive modifications like spring length or drilling out a slide.

@@matttriestodothings exactly

hah, I hear you on that.

Pitt has awesome grip in the rain. It's the sealer patches at Blackhawk Farms in the wet that give me nightmares.

@@matttriestodothings Blackhawk in the dry looks a bit iffy, TBH

@@chrisw8925 Blackhawk looks more treacherous on camera than it is in reality. It's actually got way better dry grip than you would expect. There are a few bumps and cracks in the surface that are annoying. But when it gets wet, ugh, totally different ball game. Some dudes absolutely excel in in that environment though.

That would be an entirely separate video. I'll let someone that's better at that than me tackle that one. I just pull plastic fasteners off until it's loose.

Haha, thanks Steve! I figure I'm likely in for another humbling year in 2025 results-wise, but as long as I can continue to improve on my riding, lap times, and racecraft, it'll be a win in my books. It was great to see you at the track this year, and I especially appreciate you coming by that Blackhawk weekend (July round I believe) to hang out during the ASRA races! I still haven't figured out if/what to do for a Daytona video. I don't want to make a downer video since it was the coolest motorcycle experience of my life. I just don't have much video that's interesting since my camera stopped working on Saturday, and my bike didn't run right either Saturday or Sunday and I withdrew from multiple races. I'm sure i'll get deep enough into winter depression that I'll want to go back and watch the footage I do have and try to find something interesting to say though.

@@matttriestodothings Great attitude, I’m impressed by your dedication to the sport! Your videos are always interesting and entertaining, whatever you piece together from Daytona will be worth watching.

@@DylonND hah. 2025 is gonna be better. Life lessons learned the hard way in 2024. Looking forward to following your 2025 as well.

@@matttriestodothings Same! I'm looking forward to my first season racing for points.

The lessons hit a little harder when they involve a hard hit with the ground. I had a ton of good though this year. More than bad. Just doesn't make for a great highlight vid if you're not battling for podiums but rather tenths off personal bests.

Hah. You've had a pretty good excuse to have a quiet 2024. I appreciate all the advice over these last couple years and for you keeping so many of us on SV's on the track with mad8v.

Absolutely. Looking forward to following your 2025 campaign!

Thanks man. Can't wait to get back out there and mix it up with you in 2025. We're knockin' some time off for sure next year. Merry Christmas 🎅 🎄 to you too.

hah, that's the idea! 1:17's at Blackhawk and sub 2:00 at PittRace is the primary goal. Get my ass competitive and stay upright.

Sure thing Taurus. Congrats and the new-to-you bike, and good luck with the light installation. The primary headlight function of the bike is still working well for my friend (I sold the bike), but one of the "halo" white running lights stopped working on it. I believe that's the weak point on these units from what I can tell.

@@user-gz1hu5px1z thanks man.

np James. This one frustrated me quite a bit before coming across a random Triumph board that had the same situation. Good luck with the forks.

@@jamescrane3086 yea I found *a lot* of oil in there. Like 3L.

@matttriestodothings you might want to change the clutch plates to one without a riveted spring plate. That's about the only disaster those things usually have

@@jamescrane3086 I'll put that on the list of considerations. I'll do some research on that. Thank you James.

@@matttriestodothings If you want to research it, you'll benefit from using the term "grenade plate" with "Sportster"

@jamescrane3086 great. "grenade plate". As if I dont have enough motorcycle issues in my life now lol.

It comes with a horn, yes. I got rid of it. If you're talking about street legal fairings, you're pretty much stuck with the fairings it comes with unless you're very skilled and creative. If you're talking about track fairings, well... you can make a ton of different bike fairings work. I use 01-03 GSXR fairings.

@@mmotorcycles9497 it was still the coolest motorcycle experience I ever had. I got two problem free days there I'll never forget. Even if I was absolutley spooked to go on that banking the first day!

I'm really not much of a motorcycle mechanic--just an amateur tinkerer trying to figure this all out. There are likely a lot better options than me to going through the bike. Unless you're in the midwest and within like an hour of me, it probably wouldn't make sense. Start with the simple things first. There's no need to try to do everything all at once. Working on bikes is a lot more research and staring at things trying to understand them than it is actually turning a wrench. At least on a bike you've never worked on before.

@@gabe5360 that special cam tool was some bullshit they came up with to try to address manufacturing issues they had with the journals. I do not know of anybody that has used one. I'll see if I can find a recent post on vfrworld by someone much smarter than me addressing that special tool and post back.

"Early designs were not machined using a line boring technique (pre 86), where the head and cam holder were machined together for the cams and always stayed married to each other. The early models were machined to a tolerance and employed semi "floating" cam caps. Sometimes a particular group of parts came together where the tolerances of the mating parts all ended up being perfect together as a system. Sometimes tolerance stack allowed the opposite to happen, leading to odd wear and difficulty adjusting the valve lash. Honda came up with some BS "Cam Holder" tool, but it was just a PR move. Just use 2 feelers at the same time as straycat suggests." -Captain 80s, VFRWorld Oct 24, 2024 Post #3 in this thread: vfrworld.com/threads/1985-vf500-first-bike-concerns-etc.62043/

I have not--just looked it up. That looks pretty sweet. It's expensive, but it's not *significantly* more expensive than the Carbtune. Tell you what, if I ever end up buying a CBX, I'll buy the 6 channel Digi Sync to go with it, hah.

@@matttriestodothings I just bought me the 6 channel one a couple weeks ago for my old 1988 transalp. Only has 2 carbs but at least I'm future proof. It's incredible how much of a difference it makes when it's properly synchronized! Looking forward to you getting one whenever you do man

My worry about getting the lower clamps too loose is if they spin into a spot you can't tighten them once it's seated. But yea, I'm guessing you can get this down to a science to make it far easier than this even.

@@matttriestodothings Just finishing up my 4th VF500F restore. Its been about 4 years since the last so I find myself watching videos to remind me how to do things, no pun intended.

It's a Vance and Hines. You won't be able to keep a centerstand on with this exhaust.

Is there not a center stand on the bike in this video?

@@DOC-Sinister hah, touché. There is, but I didn't install the springs because they interfere with with the exhaust. Sorry it's been a minute since I shot this video. The bike no longer has a centerstand on it and I use a paddock stand. If I could install the centerstand, I would.

Gotcha. Yeah I noticed your exhaust right away and it looks good. I can't stand the stock exhaust tips so I was curious to the brand and what mods might need to done. Appreciate the response. Keep up the good work

No problem man. Good luck with the replacement.

@@tonydryden8332 hell yea man. Makes me glad my dumbass actually made something useful! Good luck with the seal change Tony.

@@boosthacker3974 absolutley man. Hope everything with the carb cleaning goes well for you.

Realistically, you can just make sure the cam lobe isn't pushing on the valve. It doesn't necessarily have to be at TDC in order to check clearances. It's "correct" to use the markings, but not imperative.

I think you'll see different float heights depending on the generation of the bike. Don't quote me on it, but I am pretty certain that the MK2 (like in this video) had the 17mm float height, but the previous generation had a different number. As far as I know, the float heights I set to in this video worked well for me. I think I put about 2,500 miles on the bike, and my buddy now owns it and continues to ride it without issue. The air/fuel screws you're going to get a lot of variation in where people settle on those. I generally run as close to the lean stock setting as I can while knowing the factory always sets these things up too lean for emissions reasons. Pretty sure I settled at either 2 or 2 1/4 turns. I've heard of people running up to 3 without issue. My theory is that once you get over 3, you want to increase the pilot size to get the A/F screws back into the proper range. If you run those A/F screws way out, the spring tension gets weaker and those things can end up backing out over time. Sounds like you've been busy if you've cut up and welded a tank! That's well beyond my ability. Hopefully you're well on your way to getting the bike roadworthy and back for it's triumphant return 13 years later. Jesus, 2011 was already 13 years ago? jeeeeze. That hurt to type.

@@norcal8718 this one I did one practice on. Before I started doing it this way? Like a weeks worth of swearing and sweating and nearly destroying it, lol

And I saw your bike for even less time at Daytona, heh.

​@@matttriestodothings found out there's no Pitt on the schedule for next year 😕

@@TF_2ofSpades I read that too. That's pretty damn crushing news since it's such an awesome track and facility. 2 was a pretty big ask from most of the midwest guys west of Chicago--I get it. But I really hate that we don't even get one for 2025.

@@TF_2ofSpades oh ffs. It's not on WERA's schedule for next year either. My plan was to just try to do the WERA round instead of ASRA if they had it since it's my favorite track. This sucks.

@TF_2ofSpades Pitt added may 10-11 for 2025. 😎. Congrats on the expert bump!

I was able to get something from mcmaster carr that worked well enough. So I'm good. Thank you very much though Tony, I appreciate the offer.

Thanks man, I appreciate it. You've got a frozen SV too!? Hah, I sure wish there didn't seem to be such an epidemic of frozen SV engines abound. Good to hear you've got it running. Now you've got the offseason to get that bad boy ready to go in 2025. Sounds like you're well on your way.

@@siafu-1764 I wish I could give you a good answer, but it's been several years since I've owned the bike and dont recall if I struggled with the airbox. That being said, I do remember the parts I actually struggled with--particularly the fuel tank rear bolt which seemed too short to me. Sorry that answer is of no help.

@@matttriestodothings I appreciate it very much. I have aftermarket boots that some guy used for pod filters on my bike. They fit good into the oem boots so i might just double boot haha.

That TPS is not affecting the idle rate. Things that have led to a high idle for me: Idle adjust way too high Throttle cable restricted and not allowing the butterflies to completely rest Sync screws way off Choke plungers either scored or not pulling all the way back

Could be. The Mikuni's in my SV650 are awesome. I never fought with a carburetor more than I did with this Bandit.

@@treering hah, sure thing man. Yea I was doing a few other things as well so it looked like a skeleton

@@AICD1999 well, that's a good question. Offseason will start in a few weeks because I made the executive decision that I'm gonna race Daytona. I've got a project SV Superbike I'd really like to see rideable. I have an SV engine I need to replace the transmission on, and I've never cracked open an engine before. And the project I've been neglecting most is the 1986 VFR700 I feel I've done most of the mechanical stuff on, but I'm at the part I absolutley suck at which is fixing destroyed bodywork. I just haven't found the motivation for that yet since it seems so daunting. My VF has been great so far this year. I haven't ridden much of anything on the street tho. The VF is about the only bike I even bother riding on the street since it's fun and just feels like home. Took it to a bike show and a few Harley nights at the museum, hah. Sounds like you're getting mighty close on your most recent VF project, that's awesome.

@@matttriestodothings fairings/plastics are a pain. Watch Windy Urtnowski videos on plastic repair. I use a hybrid approach between JB Weld sometimes and another technique. The other is used in miniature model flying airplane repair. I use fiberglass clothe and super glue. Apply to the back and let sit. You can fill the front crack with superglue as well. It will sand just like resin.

I've watched some of his videos. True-Moto-Resto (he's on the VFRWorld forums) does a ton of awesome work as well on gorgeous restorations. It's just the little things that take forever that I don't know how to do. Like, I ordered a $300 rear fairing from Airtech. It doesn't have any mounting posts, it's just the glass. I have to figure out how to make little mounting posts that correctly go into the mounts with the correct pressure to hold it. That will take me two months, tons of trial and error, a ton of wasted money, and likely very little payback. I'm to the point where I don't know if I'm even going to bother with the VFR700 since the fleet of SV650's I'm trying to maintain and eventually race is already too much. I'm just losing the time and patience. I think I need to cut the projects down. It's why I love where my VF500F is at. It's friggen perfect since I've spent so much time on it. Looks exactly like I want it to. Has everything it needs. More fun on the street than any other bike I own. And I ride about 500 street miles a year at this point.

@@matttriestodothings I use the abs plastics from the old fairings to make new eyelet style anchor points. and its also your reference of where to put them. Then I use the superglue and fiberglass sheet on the inside to secure. That works well. For the post style anchors I use JB weld and then a sheet of fiberglass and superglue surrounding it and out from it at least an inch or two to help secure it. I dont spend a lot of time making it look OEM as all of this is on the inside where nobody will see it. I may file or sand some so it isnt a total mess as well as some kind of spray over similar to the color around it. The cracks seen on the outside if the fairings I will fill with superglue and level by hand sanding just like Windy does. The key is securing all of this from the inside where nobody sees.

Thanks Craig, I appreciate it.

@@surek0959 thanks man.

I wish I had an answer for you. I plan to determine what the actual cause is this winter. I swapped the engine with another one I bought--that was my "fix". I left the old engine intact incase I needed to swap it back into my bike if the new one had a problem. Even though the old one didn't shift right, I could at least ride it--just couldn't clutchless shift. I purchased another gen1 transmission set from mad8v.com and plan to crack the case open on the original engine this winter. Maybe it'll turn out to be something really dumb that I could have fixed externally, but I really don't think so. Sorry I don't have a better answer yet.

@@matttriestodothings okay well i definitely appreciate the response and when you do, please don’t hesitate to make a vid because there are alot of us who are interested

Will do. Given how much time I've wasted trying to figure out what in the world is wrong, I'm as hungry for an answer as you are. It's definitely an annoying problem to have.

Absolutely man. May your carburetor synchronizations go swift and simply.