WAGO 221 Assortment Kit: geni.us/H2Jp Legrand USB-C Outlet: geni.us/1MaqH Milwaukee Combo Wire Strippers: geni.us/5zuLAbC #1 Milwaukee ECX Screwdriver: geni.us/fuSEW Klein Voltage Tester: geni.us/fAYN9Rr Klein Outlet Tester: geni.us/kdBAJ Tools Every Weekend Warrior Needs Makita Cordless Drill Combo Kit: geni.us/t7dIA Dewalt Drill Bit Set: geni.us/oFlSl Dewalt Screwdriver Bit Set: geni.us/VDcr Craftsman Screwdriver Set: geni.us/jXqFI Eklind Allen Wrench Set: geni.us/7XfvO Pliers (4-Piece Set): geni.us/RIdx Milwaukee Fastback Utility Knife: geni.us/MlyiLk Stanley Tape Measure: geni.us/bUfD1R Studbuddy Stud Finder: geni.us/RySCuVw Johnson Torpedo Level: geni.us/wiLcDY Stanley Hammer: geni.us/bPDk8Wo Buck Bros Wood Chisel Set: geni.us/vk3cpTW Klein Voltage Tester: geni.us/h9Hl Klein Outlet Tester: geni.us/kdBAJ Milwaukee Wire Strippers: geni.us/5zuLAbC Little Giant Ladder: geni.us/fmlmTk DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Thanks!As a mason contractor for 42 yrs.,I have installed alot of boxes in the walls,but the electrical was done by the contractor in that field of work, which has left me lacking in my knowledge of electrical issues. Your video,s are very helpful. Txs. James Tillar,AAA MASONRY
I was probably going to have another bland boring and depressing 4am but I 100% have you to thank for the change in mind set . Of all the unimportant drama I could have typed in my search bar I looked up wiring basics and found your channel, I'm like 25 minutes in to your content and feel an overwhelming sense of confidence. I've needed electric work done desperately and now I am going to be picking some things up on my way home from work . Hopefully in 12 hours my life will be a little brighter.. thank you for the wisdom and keep it coming
Excellent. For 20 years, my yard lights came on with my indoor hall lights. I used this info to switch them over to my porch light. Took me long enough
I have to say from "My Experiences" This young man @8:08, made his Shepherd Hooks Backwards. You always want to pull the insulation into the screw. You are always tightening to the Right so the wire comes in from the left. Anything else he says is SUSPECT also.
@@Delekham And I can say from my experiences that you didn't listen to or watch the video carefully. In the timestamp you gave, he is not using a hook at all. He is backwiring: leaving the wire straight and the screw terminal has a terminal clamp that pinches down on the wire when the screw is tightened. The back of the receptacle has a stripping gauge so that you strip the insulation such that the wire fully bottoms out in the screw terminal yet the insulation is flush with the terminal clamp once screwed down. Your lack of attention and/or comprehension makes anything else you say suspect also.
Thank you this was informative and helpful. I opened an outlet with the exact configuration you described with 3 sets of wires, 2 back-wired and 1 side-wired, and I wanted to put in a receptacle with a USB port. Learning about Wago lever nuts and making pigtails was also really helpful, and differentiating between line and load is also good. Most times I've done repair I've taken pictures and put the next thing in the way the previous thing was done, but now I realize that's not guaranteed to work or be safe.
Your video saved my confusion. Encounter outlet like this & removed all the wires; afterward, put the wires in the GFCI & nothing happened. Spent about 30 mins switching wires around still didn’t work. Reviewed your video to install the hot & neutral on the bottom then the other pairs on the top, bingo everything perfect 👍 again. Saved me couple hundred to hire an electrician. Thx
I enjoy all your videos. I usually download all the UA-cam videos I watch on all channels, so I can watch them as I get time. After I watch them, I delete most of them. But I usually save yours to a folder on my computer. LOTS of great information!! THANK YOU!!!!
This is the third video of yours I've seen. I'm impressed I've been in construction for 40 odd years . I can build a house no problem. but someone else always did the wiring . I don't build anymore but I still do repairs many of which are electrical . I'm subscribing to your channel and recommending it to any and all home owners whom I work for .. as always ,well done and thank you
Thank you for the info. As a DIYer I've encountered situations like this in our home over the years and knowing this stuff beforehand would have made installing new outlets and switches so much easier. Love those Wago connectors!
I solved a persistent problem I had dealing with a burned out GFCI finally. It was a line/load situation and It was impossible to tell which was which because the insulation was gone back up under the insulation. Anyway, I watched this video (which really helped somehow) and after two attempts at re-arrainging the wiring for the outlet I was able to get the testing plug to register CORRECT. I am grateful to this video for triggering something in my brain that allowed me finally master this situation. The pipes won't freeze up, I fixed it. I had gotten continuity back, but had problems with hot/neutral reversed and tried to find how to know which was line and which was load and which one of those two was wired wrong. It was crazy because there was basically no color descernable on the burned ends. Alot of hit and miss, turn it on, turn it off, Something clicked after this video and it's done. Hooray.
I can't say this enough, this man has made my life easier just by recommending the WAGO connectors. Add in all the other little tips I've gathered from watching, and I feel like I owe this guy an invitation to our next beachside cookout, and a growler of the private reserve.
Great video, it's worth mentioning at time 3:45 to power off the breaker, and double check that no wires are live. I test all wires to be safe, because if someone had wired hot & neutral backwards then you can get a hot neutral.
You not understand neutral . Both are current conductors . Neutral is not a ground period of 0 volts . It a pathway for the return of half the voltage and amps to service transformer only. Never use neutral as a ground. A ground has 0 volts 0 amps connected to earth only. Easy to remember by what it called . Ac means alternsteing curent , means goes out and returns like a magnet. Dc = like batterys= direct curent, goes out but not return to service transformer. A service tranformer only trans form a volt with amps at a even count only as 240 volt 10 ampd to a 120 v 20 amps service. It a 2/1 transformer. A pole transformer is a step down transformer at 10000 volt at 30 amps x 240 volt x 2010 amps , it is a 67/1 rating transformer , if house is 100 amp at 240 volts , then it take a 24 or best to chose 1 size bigger 25 kw step down transformer oil cooled is best.
I was thinking the same thing Cori. Somebody may have switched the hot and neutral so that a white wire may be live. I always check all wires, including the grounds, and check the box if it’s metallic.
I agree that the way this is presented, it looks like he's digging into the same box that he just identified hot wires in. I know he said previously that power should be turned off at the breaker, and then verified, but he doesn't do a very good job of demonstrating this. Newbies/Beginners might be confused...
Exactly what I found in my wife's home office. A third outlet was wired through the middle of the run but the grounds were just connected together and shoved in the back of the box with no pigtail to the green wire. I disconnected everything and used 4 point wagos just like you did. I can't believe it hadn't started a fire.
Wouldn't the ground wires only be dangerous in case of a ground short, that is a miswiring of the hot wires to the grounded parts? As i understand, In normal conditions, the ground wires are not live, so connected or not they cannot cause a fire(until there's a ground short somewhere on the line and the ground wires become live, then dangling live wires can cause arcs, or electrocution).
Great info. I really like the connectors. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve struggled with sets of 12 gauge wires trying to get them back into a small electric box only to end up tearing the small box out and replacing it with a deeper box. 12 gauge wiring is no fun to work with! The connectors and outlets are definitely on my immediate shopping list! Thank you.
I cannot recall how many poor twists and attached wire nuts I have come across in my 62 years and almost all were ‘allegedly’ installed by electricians. WAGOs have been used for decades and like all electrical, they should be installed with care.
Be careful, there are some knock offs out there and the quality is definitely cheaper. I always let my customers know before hand because the wago 221 are spendy but worth it when it comes to electrical and safty for your customers.
Thank you so much, i just installed my first gfci in my tenants apartment. I own an older home and a few receptacles are not grounded. My tenant understands and he is very appreciative
I just had to fix a plug like this. It had reversed polarity so I took apart to fix. I had no ground wires connected plus my main power was from bx cable to Romex. The wagu lever nuts worked great for pig tailing. The only thing I added was a piece of tape to keep the levers locked while fumbling with all the wires. I was checking videos to make sure what I did was even close to code! Your video series has been very helpful!!
Thank you very much for your videos. I am working on renovating a house built in 1995 and the electrical wiring is a bit interesting. Some of it does not make sense as far as why certain receptacles are connected and others are not. Your videos are helping me quite a bit. I'm commenting on this one, but I have watched several of your videos (sometimes 2-3 times) to help me figure out the correct way. It has also helped my regarding connectors and tools. Thanks again.
I've been having issues with an outlet in our dining room and this video gives me an idea of how to replace the outlet with one that has a usb plug. Thanks for the detailed information.
As a pro for over 2 decades your the 1st person on UA-cam that I have seen recommending the Pigtail. You should've explained why it's not a good idea to wire an outlet with 7 wires on it (including 1 ground). But let me ask you "if that outlet with 7 wires was to go bad which they do how long would it take a reg Joe to troubleshoot"? You should ALWAYS Pigtail outlets. Saves you time and money plus your wallet.
Theoretically, it doesn't matter... the bus bar and terminal are solid brass or whatever material connecting all the wires. They can't really go bad, on a standard receptacle as they're monolithic chunks of metal. (Not including shitty backstabs.) The outlet itself may be junk but the rest of the circuit should be fine since they're all still in parallel wiring configuration whether pigtailed or connected at the receptacle.. One exception would be the GFCI but it's expected to disable all loads downstream of it if it goes bad as that's how it is designed.
Exactly what I needed, thank you! Was replacing an unnecessary switch with an outlet, but one of the 3 wire sets in the box registered a low flickering light on voltage tester - so glad you said that’s common and not a hot line. Great video all around!!!
And don't you just love it when a homeowner does the wiring themselves and uses what ever color wire they have available? I helped my best friend change an outlet that was also connected to an upstairs outlet. The home owner used green wire for hot blue for negative and yellow for ground. We were able to replace the outlet because my best friend saw how the wires were connected before we began the work. It was a nightmare.
Scott I’m happy to see you have a great following of subscribers. You deserve it. Thanks so much for the invaluable information. With info from your channel I’m learning a lot…so with your help I safely/successfully wired in gfci outlets in my kitchen and bathrooms. Will be purchasing the materials I need to upgrade old outdoor receptacles. My father built the garage here in 1962 and he installed the outlets and while they are three prong grounded and they work and are weather proof I want to swap them for new gfci and upgraded wp boxes. Thrilled to be a new subscriber here! Mucho gracias! ✌️ - Michele
Excellent work sir. I just started watching your videos and appreciate the care you take to explain the work you do. That being said, I would like to request a video that explains multiple switches. I have a bathroom with a light and a fan, and there's two switches for each one (One inside the bathroom and one outside). The dude that did them didnt know how to hook them up properly, so now both light switches work as expected, but the fan requires one switch to be on for the other fan switch to work. I have the same issue for another room with a ceiling fan. Two switches for the fan. Switch 'A' turns it on or off, but the other switch 'B' only works if switch 'A' is also on.
It's been 7 months since you've posted your question, so I don't know if you found your answer yet, but you can find diagrams all over the internet on 3 way wiring methods. 3 ways are a little more complicated to explain because of the different wiring methods used by electricians. I can tell you that this issue is due to the travelers and the common wire crossed. Three-way switches have 4 screws. One black, two brass, and one green. The black is common, used for the power or switchleg. The brass screws are for travelers. The two wires traveling to both boxes. Usually, they are red and black wires. The green is the ground. Hope this helps.
One other maybe common situation - or at least I've seen it - is where the outlet has been split to have 2 15 amp circuits (used to be common in kitchens here) or where one half is switched and the other is always powered. These situations could result in surprises that weren't mentioned in your video.
My problem started when my wife asked why the switch in the bathroom was beige and the switch plate was white. Although it had been that way for many years I guess she just realized it bugged her. Wanting to say with white, since that's what we have in the rest of the house, I decided to replace the switch. Our house was built in the late fifties so I have steel boxes that have always struck me as being too small. I'll not bore you with the various troubles I encountered but it was frustrating and took much longer then I had ever suspected it would. When finished I ended up with a light switch and a GFCI receptacle above it (which was there before). I tested the GFCI and it showed Open Ground that would not bother me as in a previous video when you replaced older two pronged plugs with a GFCI you said that was OK just put a label on the plate that says it's not grounded. Here come the BUT... While both switch and plug work the plug gives a red on the GFCI and is dead whenever I turn the light on. Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated as I have given it much thought and do not realize what I did wrong. I'm a homeowner handyman and have done basic work like this before with no problems, Help! Jim Y.
This was a great video! Very clear video & instructions. We were swapping out a new usb C port outlet and were confused about connecting 3 sets of wires.
Haven't even finished this video and already I feel the need to say, "Excellent video, very informative and covered all the questions I have now, and had prior to starting my search hours ago. Thank you!" I have subscribed and liked this video!
Great video, I couldn't figure out how to wire in an GFI outlet with the 3 black and 3 white wires. Goggled the question and up popped your video it was so useful and easy to do thank you. 👍👍👍👍
GFCI and USB receptacles can be problematic when you have two or three sets of wires to deal with in a small receptacle box. Sometimes a deeper box can be a solution if there is enough room inside the wall.
That box is nailed on to the stud so you'd have to cut the nails with an oscillating blade and get a deeper old work box with the wings in there. Messy but doable IF you have enough wire length to work with.
I've done this a handful of times lately, and it's not too bad. You're right that getting the wire back in can be tricky. Would be a great video for this channel.
Unless line/load on a GFCI or having a split receptacle, I would always pigtail multiple wires in a box. Therefore you are eliminating the confusion for the next person to open the box. Also it is easier to tighten down one wire on a screw rather than 2 or even 3.
Wago or not, this is simply good wiring practice. Why loose everything downstream if there is a problem in the future. Troubleshooting can be time consuming as it is. Always pigtail if it's just feeding through. Always. Period. Don't even get me started on back-fed outlets.
@@charlesford157 Could you explain why it would help trouble shooting by pig tailing vs having both wires on the receptacle? Trying to learn as I was planning on putting all wires into my receptacle vs adding another wire and pig tailing. Thanks!
@@raiderxx It's just like anything else. To be honest this pigtail method is really the result of back-wired outlets behind just literally stabbed in the back. One wire gets loose and you lose every device down the line. Typically yes, using both sets of screws on the outlet is fine, but what do you do when there is 3 wires? Adding another wire to a screw is a bad idea. So to keep things simple, if you pigtail all problems screw or back-stab related are moot. If you have a problem you know right where it is.
a recent home reno with having to relocate a triple gang box of switches including three way and power in and outlet, take a pic or two, and colour code with electrical tape each pair of wires marking which switch/outlet.. when pulling/feeding/moving the wire and boxes to new outlets and switches it makes for a very quick rewire without having to retrace everything.
I'm just an electrician's apprentice, but I've been instructed by several journeyman to wire up your ground first, then neutral, then hot last. This is done for safety, but disassemble the receptacle in reverse order.
Always good videos. Would you mind doing a video on how to identify different types of common circuits based upon what you have in the box? (multi-wire, pass throughs, switch legs, switch loops, junctions). Also, after watching this. I think it might be a good idea to have a video showing how to determine box fill. Maybe show the different types of boxes, (Plastic switch boxes, 1900s, 11Bs, 8Bs, metal work boxes), the difference between ganged and non-ganged work boxes. Then show where you can, and can not have certain things, based on size of the box, amount of conductors, and size of the device.
Thank you! This was very helpful (: Just replaced a three way combination switch receptacle with a receptacle and wanted to double check what to do with the multiple wires.
Over the course of several years as outlets in the house wore out leaving cords that wouldn't stay in the receptacles I found many of the outlets to have been wired with the back stabbing method...as I've replaced them, I have been using those commercial type receptacles, they make a very easy to install replacement and absolutely no back stabbing I hate that, I'm not an electrician but can tell those wires are not very secure. I just got finished rewiring a bunch of lights, switches, receptacles, and adding receptacles, lights and switches...wish I had those WAGO connectors...I have ordered some, and will be cleaning up a couple junction boxes with them for a much nicer mess of wires LOL....I have one right now that I need to replace the junction box as its way too small, not sure who put it in but its a very shallow box, so trying to get the wires into it is, well there's no cover on it at the moment. I'm thinking of breaking up whatever is in that mess and putting in a 2nd junction box, and I'll be using the WAGO connectors from now on, much better storage utilization than bulky and sometimes questionable wire nuts.
Thanks for the video man, great job. I love how informative you are with the complete process with the occasional speed up for those inherently slow parts of the job.
We'd behooved to learn about AFCI GFCI combination receptacles AND / OR breakers, AND with USB. At what point does it end, that we have to protect people from themselves ? I would argue that the breakers are the best option, so they protect the ENTIRE circuit and not just the individual or branch circuit. For example, when I trip the GFCI, in one instance of a particular room, it takes out all the outlets in that room but not the lights. In another room, it takes out all outlets AND the porch light, AND the ceiling lights as if I tripped the entire breaker, however, other things attached to that same breaker are still live. In that scenario, I would argue that it is best to have both AFCI GFCI combination receptacles with USB AND AF-GF CI breakers too. This will offer extra protection, or be a fail safe, and it will also help determine which specific circuit has the problem. If it were up to me, all basic house wiring would be 10 or 12 gauge and absolutely NEVER 14, except when attaching ONE outlet or ONE switch. You can go from thicker gauge to thinner but not thinner gauge to thicker. I would also like to see two electrical boxes. One with a removable decorative plate below the outlet itself, where all the splices are. Never in the box of the actual switches and receptacles. There is a very good reason and use for that, but also goes along with METAL (Steel) boxes. Plastic and nylon boxes should be banned. But that's a different rant for a different time. It has to do with grounding and heat. I would also like to see each outlet, and each light fixture on it's own breaker. So you might have 4 or 5 breakers for one bed room, or 3 breakers for one bathroom, etc. That ensures you always have power when you need it, and can safely work on another circuit, without taking down half your house. I would even further that by saying that each receptacle that has two outlets also have their own feeder of 12 gauge wire minimum. When I talk about wire (Romex) I am meaning COPPER. NEVER aluminum. However I think the lever wire nuts or even the push ins would be better for joining copper to aluminum. Further still, I would like to see that instead of receptacles with 2 outlets, they only have 1 outlet, with the top half being a switch to control the bottom half. This is for safety AND convenience. These days, you cannot truly TURN OFF, anything. When things are OFF, they're still drawing power in most cases. When you turn something OFF, it should be OFF, not in standby and not drawing any current at all. It should be truly off, and breaking the connection ensures it. So anyway, that's my stance on these things. I'm sure the next generation will be talking about even more B.S. for safety because we live in a society that have people that are SO STUPID, they don't realize that using a blow dryer will NEVER get their hair dry while standing under a shower. Hence the warning tags and the government needing to protect stupid people from themselves. It is a good thing in some cases, but in other cases, it's taken too far, and no doubt it is so that corporate America can get richer off the poor.
On a GFCI the loads do not need to be connected to the load side of the GFCI. This is only necessary if you want the load to also be GF protected and it may not work if the previous circuit has a shared neutral downstream... the GFCI will trip every time.
This video was perfect for my conversion of an old two prong outlet to a three prong / usb outlet. In my case, I was able to ground from the new outlet to the old metal box.
I too think you should advise your viewers that by using that type or the GFCI receptacle, there really isn't enough room in the standard box for all those wires assuming using the WAGO and a 4th set of pigtail wires.
I think you are right on, especially when you notice the vents this fixture has in the back and the sides, I'll bet there was a very detailed instruction with this fixture explaining the volume of the box required and number of conductors allowed in each volume of the potential boxes.
Awesome video and thank you for being thorough and explaining ithe different types of outlets and how to deal with the numerous wires. My only question is, where can I get the wires you are using for the pigtails... - Newbie DIYer
We have two original wire one white ( hot) one black ( neutral) four others two black hot and two white neutral apparently wired later to add two more recepticles on counter in kitchen, 20 amp breaker what outlet should I use and how should I wire it correctly? Like your videos so much and very helpful. Thanks 😊
Great video! As a pro Pig tailing is recommended which makes trouble shooting for you or a electrician easier and j hooks for the connections. Nothing wrong with using wagos either just double check all connections made no matter what you use
In my city it is actually code to use pigtails. Also another way the three sets of wires could be set up is a switched outlet that one of the white wires may be hot when a switch is switched on. This way one outlet is always hot and the other is hot only when switched on. This can be done by removing the little taps on the side of the outlet.
Very very nice explanation. I have exactly the same configuration to fix. On the other hand I have an electrical box. To ground it: can I simply put a new pigtail in the ground connector and screw the other end onto the box? (green screw) I have the Wago 5-socket connectors. (so space for one last pigtail) Thanks
So I noticed that there are 2 sets of black and white but that the 2 white wires arent coming from the same (wire holder?) but rather its a single set of black and white per (wire holder?). This video has helped me to understand 2 main options I have. I can cap the other set off since Im fairly certain I know what that set runs and dont really care about it, or I can just put the 2 black on the hot side and the 2 whites on the neutral side since Ill also be screwing the other screw down anyways. An issue I did run into though is that I dont see a ground wire at all in any of the housings….. Is there a way to have ground wires put in without having the entire house’s wiring redone? Also does it matter whether these new 3 prong plugs are being put in a housing that doesnt have a ground wire and is it safe to plug a 3 prong plug into the outlet without a ground wire?
After testing for the hot lead you didn’t mention that you turn off the breaker again seems quite obvious but in an instructional video like this you should
Thank you for the idea on the connectors is so much better than using wire nuts which I normally would tape to make sure they don’t come out God bless and stay safe
You got an example of doing the same wiring but for a 14-3 wire? I’d love to pigtail all wires, but the red wire (travellers) are confusing when trying to fit a gfci or regular outlet. I don’t know where to put the traveler wires if you pigtail tjem 😅 Right now I got a 14-3 speed wiring by the builder. And it’s lead to a failure
I have a four-gang box in an extension off my kitchen that has a three-way light switch where the other switch is on a different circuit. That was a fun one to suss out.
When I run new wiring, I always bring the "LINE" cable, the one closest to the service panel, into the box from the upper left corner. Helps me once the wall is rocked over again, and (I hope) helps the Next Guy. [DIYer here]
What was the box fill? Using the wago takes up more space than a wire nut. I found by using a wire nut, the wires can be tucked in more neatly into the back of the box. More caution has to be taken when using wagos so the receptacle doesn't push the wires against a sharp object at the back of the box, damaging the insulation and/or conductor also.
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He likes taking the easy way out... what you're not seeing in this video is how he struggled for 10 minutes repositioning all his wago'ed wires to get the GFCI to fit. A nut would have worked so much better here.
My experiences is that Wago connectors tend to use less space in a box - primarily because all the individual wires are still free to spin in the connector. That usually lets you pack the wires in the box more efficiently. With a wire nut you tend to get a solid bunch of wires that have much less freedom of movement.
There are sharp objects in the back of boxes ! ?. O my. You must have elves sticking things in there . My boxes are usually empty before I strip the wires and feed em in .....................
Two things, 1. Take a picture of all the connections before starting, this can be helpful. 2. Pigtailing the GFCI is appropriate if you do not want to protect the downstream connections.
5:29 is exactly how my outlet is setup and I’m having issues with my garage opener. Will update once I get a fix but good to know this is NOT recommended to be wired this way.
thank you for all the videos that you have been putting. I would like to have your help in figuring it out why we don't have electricity going inside our shed. I can see the power is there outside the shed but someone has done the wiring and I am not able to figure it out why there is no current going inside. Thank you. Jasbir
This is such an awesome video!! I'm going to scour your channel to see if you have a video on this same exact situation but with AL to CU connections! 🤞🏽 Thank you!
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Thanks!As a mason contractor for 42 yrs.,I have installed alot of boxes in the walls,but the electrical was done by the contractor in that field of work, which has left me lacking in my knowledge of electrical issues. Your video,s are very helpful. Txs. James Tillar,AAA MASONRY
I was probably going to have another bland boring and depressing 4am but I 100% have you to thank for the change in mind set . Of all the unimportant drama I could have typed in my search bar I looked up wiring basics and found your channel, I'm like 25 minutes in to your content and feel an overwhelming sense of confidence. I've needed electric work done desperately and now I am going to be picking some things up on my way home from work . Hopefully in 12 hours my life will be a little brighter.. thank you for the wisdom and keep it coming
Hey Greg, happy to help. Be safe and best of luck on your projects.
How'd it turn out😅
@@stuartewoldt1513 let’s just hope his lack of response wasn’t because he ended up on his local news channel
Excellent. For 20 years, my yard lights came on with my indoor hall lights. I used this info to switch them over to my porch light. Took me long enough
Better late than never 👍
The wire for the yard lights was on the wrong switch
I can tell you from my own experience that this young man has the best presentations I have seen. Nice job sir.
I have to say from "My Experiences" This young man @8:08, made his Shepherd Hooks Backwards. You always want to pull the insulation into the screw. You are always tightening to the Right so the wire comes in from the left. Anything else he says is SUSPECT also.
@@Delekham And I can say from my experiences that you didn't listen to or watch the video carefully. In the timestamp you gave, he is not using a hook at all. He is backwiring: leaving the wire straight and the screw terminal has a terminal clamp that pinches down on the wire when the screw is tightened. The back of the receptacle has a stripping gauge so that you strip the insulation such that the wire fully bottoms out in the screw terminal yet the insulation is flush with the terminal clamp once screwed down. Your lack of attention and/or comprehension makes anything else you say suspect also.
@@Demolishionist Good reply !
@@Demolishionist Touché Sir !
Haters gotta hate.
Thank you this was informative and helpful. I opened an outlet with the exact configuration you described with 3 sets of wires, 2 back-wired and 1 side-wired, and I wanted to put in a receptacle with a USB port. Learning about Wago lever nuts and making pigtails was also really helpful, and differentiating between line and load is also good. Most times I've done repair I've taken pictures and put the next thing in the way the previous thing was done, but now I realize that's not guaranteed to work or be safe.
Your video saved my confusion. Encounter outlet like this & removed all the wires; afterward, put the wires in the GFCI & nothing happened. Spent about 30 mins switching wires around still didn’t work. Reviewed your video to install the hot & neutral on the bottom then the other pairs on the top, bingo everything perfect 👍 again. Saved me couple hundred to hire an electrician. Thx
Peter Xuong, You could've hired me for just $200.
@@auletjohnast03638 too much this job is only 100 or less
I enjoy all your videos. I usually download all the UA-cam videos I watch on all channels, so I can watch them as I get time. After I watch them, I delete most of them. But I usually save yours to a folder on my computer. LOTS of great information!! THANK YOU!!!!
Thanks for all your support 👍👍
This is the third video of yours I've seen. I'm impressed I've been in construction for 40 odd years . I can build a house no problem. but someone else always did the wiring . I don't build anymore but I still do repairs many of which are electrical . I'm subscribing to your channel and recommending it to any and all home owners whom I work for .. as always ,well done and thank you
Thank you for the info. As a DIYer I've encountered situations like this in our home over the years and knowing this stuff beforehand would have made installing new outlets and switches so much easier. Love those Wago connectors!
This was GREAT. Thank you for not just showing me HOW to do this, but explaining WHY (how to track down which is the power in, etc). Very cool.
I solved a persistent problem I had dealing with a burned out GFCI finally. It was a line/load situation and It was impossible to tell which was which because the insulation was gone back up under the insulation. Anyway, I watched this video (which really helped somehow) and after two attempts at re-arrainging the wiring for the outlet I was able to get the testing plug to register CORRECT. I am grateful to this video for triggering something in my brain that allowed me finally master this situation. The pipes won't freeze up, I fixed it. I had gotten continuity back, but had problems with hot/neutral reversed and tried to find how to know which was line and which was load and which one of those two was wired wrong.
It was crazy because there was basically no color descernable on the burned ends. Alot of hit and miss, turn it on, turn it off, Something clicked after this video and it's done. Hooray.
I can't say this enough, this man has made my life easier just by recommending the WAGO connectors. Add in all the other little tips I've gathered from watching, and I feel like I owe this guy an invitation to our next beachside cookout, and a growler of the private reserve.
PLUS, you can probe them (at the back of the Wago) if you want to test for voltage; saves you from taking the "wire nut" off to get to the conductors.
Thanks Jerad, appreciate the kind words and will keep an eye out for the invitation 😁
Does it matter the order the wires go in the Wago
@@ReservationFire - It does not matter because the WAGO connects them all together.
@@manny7886 👍
Great video, it's worth mentioning at time 3:45 to power off the breaker, and double check that no wires are live. I test all wires to be safe, because if someone had wired hot & neutral backwards then you can get a hot neutral.
You not understand neutral . Both are current conductors . Neutral is not a ground period of 0 volts . It a pathway for the return of half the voltage and amps to service transformer only. Never use neutral as a ground. A ground has 0 volts 0 amps connected to earth only. Easy to remember by what it called . Ac means alternsteing curent , means goes out and returns like a magnet. Dc = like batterys= direct curent, goes out but not return to service transformer. A service tranformer only trans form a volt with amps at a even count only as 240 volt 10 ampd to a 120 v 20 amps service. It a 2/1 transformer. A pole transformer is a step down transformer at 10000 volt at 30 amps x 240 volt x 2010 amps , it is a 67/1 rating transformer , if house is 100 amp at 240 volts , then it take a 24 or best to chose 1 size bigger 25 kw step down transformer oil cooled is best.
He says it at 1:50 boss
@@treposey4107 yep
I was thinking the same thing Cori. Somebody may have switched the hot and neutral so that a white wire may be live. I always check all wires, including the grounds, and check the box if it’s metallic.
I agree that the way this is presented, it looks like he's digging into the same box that he just identified hot wires in. I know he said previously that power should be turned off at the breaker, and then verified, but he doesn't do a very good job of demonstrating this. Newbies/Beginners might be confused...
Exactly what I found in my wife's home office. A third outlet was wired through the middle of the run but the grounds were just connected together and shoved in the back of the box with no pigtail to the green wire. I disconnected everything and used 4 point wagos just like you did. I can't believe it hadn't started a fire.
Wouldn't the ground wires only be dangerous in case of a ground short, that is a miswiring of the hot wires to the grounded parts?
As i understand, In normal conditions, the ground wires are not live, so connected or not they cannot cause a fire(until there's a ground short somewhere on the line and the ground wires become live, then dangling live wires can cause arcs, or electrocution).
Great info. I really like the connectors. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve struggled with sets of 12 gauge wires trying to get them back into a small electric box only to end up tearing the small box out and replacing it with a deeper box. 12 gauge wiring is no fun to work with! The connectors and outlets are definitely on my immediate shopping list! Thank you.
I cannot recall how many poor twists and attached wire nuts I have come across in my 62 years and almost all were ‘allegedly’ installed by electricians. WAGOs have been used for decades and like all electrical, they should be installed with care.
Be careful, there are some knock offs out there and the quality is definitely cheaper. I always let my customers know before hand because the wago 221 are spendy but worth it when it comes to electrical and safty for your customers.
Thank you so much, i just installed my first gfci in my tenants apartment. I own an older home and a few receptacles are not grounded. My tenant understands and he is very appreciative
I just had to fix a plug like this. It had reversed polarity so I took apart to fix. I had no ground wires connected plus my main power was from bx cable to Romex. The wagu lever nuts worked great for pig tailing. The only thing I added was a piece of tape to keep the levers locked while fumbling with all the wires. I was checking videos to make sure what I did was even close to code! Your video series has been very helpful!!
Thank you very much for your videos. I am working on renovating a house built in 1995 and the electrical wiring is a bit interesting. Some of it does not make sense as far as why certain receptacles are connected and others are not. Your videos are helping me quite a bit. I'm commenting on this one, but I have watched several of your videos (sometimes 2-3 times) to help me figure out the correct way. It has also helped my regarding connectors and tools. Thanks again.
I've been having issues with an outlet in our dining room and this video gives me an idea of how to replace the outlet with one that has a usb plug. Thanks for the detailed information.
Happy to help!
I just found an outlet like this in my room and boy did that have me scratching my head. This is very helpful. Thank you.
Great video. Everything a person would need to know to replace a receptacle with no superfluous banter! Great job!
Love the way you explain things. Very simple and to the point. No music, no fanfare…if I want to hear music, I’ll take out my trumpet.
After your thorough presentation I'm opting to call an electrician. Thank you for the precautions that you share.
As a pro for over 2 decades your the 1st person on UA-cam that I have seen recommending the Pigtail. You should've explained why it's not a good idea to wire an outlet with 7 wires on it (including 1 ground). But let me ask you "if that outlet with 7 wires was to go bad which they do how long would it take a reg Joe to troubleshoot"? You should ALWAYS Pigtail outlets. Saves you time and money plus your wallet.
Theoretically, it doesn't matter... the bus bar and terminal are solid brass or whatever material connecting all the wires. They can't really go bad, on a standard receptacle as they're monolithic chunks of metal. (Not including shitty backstabs.) The outlet itself may be junk but the rest of the circuit should be fine since they're all still in parallel wiring configuration whether pigtailed or connected at the receptacle.. One exception would be the GFCI but it's expected to disable all loads downstream of it if it goes bad as that's how it is designed.
Exactly what I needed, thank you! Was replacing an unnecessary switch with an outlet, but one of the 3 wire sets in the box registered a low flickering light on voltage tester - so glad you said that’s common and not a hot line. Great video all around!!!
They call it ghost voltage.
And don't you just love it when a homeowner does the wiring themselves and uses what ever color wire they have available? I helped my best friend change an outlet that was also connected to an upstairs outlet. The home owner used green wire for hot blue for negative and yellow for ground. We were able to replace the outlet because my best friend saw how the wires were connected before we began the work. It was a nightmare.
You have the best instructional videos I’ve seen for common electrical scenarios and I’ve watched way too many
Thanks Blake 👍
Scott I’m happy to see you have a great following of subscribers. You deserve it. Thanks so much for the invaluable information. With info from your channel I’m learning a lot…so with your help I safely/successfully wired in gfci outlets in my kitchen and bathrooms. Will be purchasing the materials I need to upgrade old outdoor receptacles. My father built the garage here in 1962 and he installed the outlets and while they are three prong grounded and they work and are weather proof I want to swap them for new gfci and upgraded wp boxes. Thrilled to be a new subscriber here! Mucho gracias! ✌️ - Michele
Welcome to the channel and thanks for all the great feedback. Best of luck with all your upcoming projects 👍
Excellent work sir. I just started watching your videos and appreciate the care you take to explain the work you do. That being said, I would like to request a video that explains multiple switches. I have a bathroom with a light and a fan, and there's two switches for each one (One inside the bathroom and one outside). The dude that did them didnt know how to hook them up properly, so now both light switches work as expected, but the fan requires one switch to be on for the other fan switch to work. I have the same issue for another room with a ceiling fan. Two switches for the fan. Switch 'A' turns it on or off, but the other switch 'B' only works if switch 'A' is also on.
It's been 7 months since you've posted your question, so I don't know if you found your answer yet, but you can find diagrams all over the internet on 3 way wiring methods. 3 ways are a little more complicated to explain because of the different wiring methods used by electricians. I can tell you that this issue is due to the travelers and the common wire crossed. Three-way switches have 4 screws. One black, two brass, and one green. The black is common, used for the power or switchleg. The brass screws are for travelers. The two wires traveling to both boxes. Usually, they are red and black wires. The green is the ground. Hope this helps.
One other maybe common situation - or at least I've seen it - is where the outlet has been split to have 2 15 amp circuits (used to be common in kitchens here) or where one half is switched and the other is always powered. These situations could result in surprises that weren't mentioned in your video.
They'll figure that out when the breaker keeps kicking
I agree, if wired wrong you could also be bypassing the switch
I have split receptacles in my kitchen. 240 volts between the two hot leads....
wait this is the problem I'm having lmao help!
I really appreciate a channel that is helping people learn.
This has been helpful. I will have to check out some of the other videos
My problem started when my wife asked why the switch in the bathroom was beige and the switch plate was white. Although it had been that way for many years I guess she just realized it bugged her. Wanting to say with white, since that's what we have in the rest of the house, I decided to replace the switch. Our house was built in the late fifties so I have steel boxes that have always struck me as being too small. I'll not bore you with the various troubles I encountered but it was frustrating and took much longer then I had ever suspected it would. When finished I ended up with a light switch and a GFCI receptacle above it (which was there before). I tested the GFCI and it showed Open Ground that would not bother me as in a previous video when you replaced older two pronged plugs with a GFCI you said that was OK just put a label on the plate that says it's not grounded. Here come the BUT... While both switch and plug work the plug gives a red on the GFCI and is dead whenever I turn the light on. Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated as I have given it much thought and do not realize what I did wrong. I'm a homeowner handyman and have done basic work like this before with no problems, Help! Jim Y.
I'm so glad I found your video because I just couldn't figure out what to do with those extra sets of wires.😅Thanks a lot!!
This was a great video! Very clear video & instructions. We were swapping out a new usb C port outlet and were confused about connecting 3 sets of wires.
I have to say: your presentations are excellent. They are clear and concise. Very helpful.
Haven't even finished this video and already I feel the need to say, "Excellent video, very informative and covered all the questions I have now, and had prior to starting my search hours ago. Thank you!" I have subscribed and liked this video!
You have a very clear way of speaking and explaining these things. Perfect for DIYers.
Thanks Andrew!
Great video, I couldn't figure out how to wire in an GFI outlet with the 3 black and 3 white wires. Goggled the question and up popped your video it was so useful and easy to do thank you. 👍👍👍👍
That is one itty bitty box you shoved that giant receptacle into!
GFCI and USB receptacles can be problematic when you have two or three sets of wires to deal with in a small receptacle box. Sometimes a deeper box can be a solution if there is enough room inside the wall.
With that many wires you need a 20 cubic inch box.
That box is nailed on to the stud so you'd have to cut the nails with an oscillating blade and get a deeper old work box with the wings in there. Messy but doable IF you have enough wire length to work with.
I've done this a handful of times lately, and it's not too bad. You're right that getting the wire back in can be tricky. Would be a great video for this channel.
@@1575murray No room for me and 20 amp. circuits. PIA.
Thank you for this video! I was installing a new outlet with USB and didn’t know about using the Wago connectors. Thanks again!
Thank you! This is not the first video of yours that has helped me.
Kudos and Well Done. I always learn from your Clear, Well-Filmed & Edited videos. Thank you John 3:16
Unless line/load on a GFCI or having a split receptacle, I would always pigtail multiple wires in a box. Therefore you are eliminating the confusion for the next person to open the box. Also it is easier to tighten down one wire on a screw rather than 2 or even 3.
WAGO. FFS.
Wago or not, this is simply good wiring practice. Why loose everything downstream if there is a problem in the future. Troubleshooting can be time consuming as it is. Always pigtail if it's just feeding through. Always. Period. Don't even get me started on back-fed outlets.
@@charlesford157 Could you explain why it would help trouble shooting by pig tailing vs having both wires on the receptacle? Trying to learn as I was planning on putting all wires into my receptacle vs adding another wire and pig tailing. Thanks!
@@raiderxx It's just like anything else. To be honest this pigtail method is really the result of back-wired outlets behind just literally stabbed in the back. One wire gets loose and you lose every device down the line. Typically yes, using both sets of screws on the outlet is fine, but what do you do when there is 3 wires? Adding another wire to a screw is a bad idea. So to keep things simple, if you pigtail all problems screw or back-stab related are moot. If you have a problem you know right where it is.
a recent home reno with having to relocate a triple gang box of switches including three way and power in and outlet, take a pic or two, and colour code with electrical tape each pair of wires marking which switch/outlet.. when pulling/feeding/moving the wire and boxes to new outlets and switches it makes for a very quick rewire without having to retrace everything.
I'm just an electrician's apprentice, but I've been instructed by several journeyman to wire up your ground first, then neutral, then hot last. This is done for safety, but disassemble the receptacle in reverse order.
Yeah same I saw him do the hot first and I was like aye even tho it’s off
Yep, this dude is obviously not licensed.
Thanks so much for your helpful explanation of WAGOs and how they really do simplify multi-wiring.
Always good videos.
Would you mind doing a video on how to identify different types of common circuits based upon what you have in the box?
(multi-wire, pass throughs, switch legs, switch loops, junctions).
Also, after watching this. I think it might be a good idea to have a video showing how to determine box fill.
Maybe show the different types of boxes, (Plastic switch boxes, 1900s, 11Bs, 8Bs, metal work boxes), the difference between ganged and non-ganged work boxes. Then show where you can, and can not have certain things, based on size of the box, amount of conductors, and size of the device.
😊 my ym😊 lobbies up h
You have no idea how much this helped me!! Thanks so much for this very helpful video!
Very well done and easy to understand. Thank you very much for taking the time!
Typical great & easy to understand video. On occasion I will go back to review one. Thanks.
Thank you! This was very helpful (:
Just replaced a three way combination switch receptacle with a receptacle and wanted to double check what to do with the multiple wires.
Some electricians say those Wago style connectors don't work or will fail on you. I've never had an issue. I love them.
Over the course of several years as outlets in the house wore out leaving cords that wouldn't stay in the receptacles I found many of the outlets to have been wired with the back stabbing method...as I've replaced them, I have been using those commercial type receptacles, they make a very easy to install replacement and absolutely no back stabbing I hate that, I'm not an electrician but can tell those wires are not very secure.
I just got finished rewiring a bunch of lights, switches, receptacles, and adding receptacles, lights and switches...wish I had those WAGO connectors...I have ordered some, and will be cleaning up a couple junction boxes with them for a much nicer mess of wires LOL....I have one right now that I need to replace the junction box as its way too small, not sure who put it in but its a very shallow box, so trying to get the wires into it is, well there's no cover on it at the moment. I'm thinking of breaking up whatever is in that mess and putting in a 2nd junction box, and I'll be using the WAGO connectors from now on, much better storage utilization than bulky and sometimes questionable wire nuts.
Really learning a lot with your videos, especially with the WAGO wire connectors.
Thanks for the video man, great job. I love how informative you are with the complete process with the occasional speed up for those inherently slow parts of the job.
I love these videos. The electrical ones are my favorite.
Thanks Rexx, appreciate the feedback and support
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Please report any "Flixzone" comments as spam and block the user.
It's a credit card scam
Excellent videos! I just wanted to say thanks for these explanations with all of the technical and minor details! Keep up the awesome work!
That was a very thorough description of the various ways to wire for the home. Thanks!
We'd behooved to learn about AFCI GFCI combination receptacles AND / OR breakers, AND with USB. At what point does it end, that we have to protect people from themselves ? I would argue that the breakers are the best option, so they protect the ENTIRE circuit and not just the individual or branch circuit. For example, when I trip the GFCI, in one instance of a particular room, it takes out all the outlets in that room but not the lights. In another room, it takes out all outlets AND the porch light, AND the ceiling lights as if I tripped the entire breaker, however, other things attached to that same breaker are still live. In that scenario, I would argue that it is best to have both AFCI GFCI combination receptacles with USB AND AF-GF CI breakers too. This will offer extra protection, or be a fail safe, and it will also help determine which specific circuit has the problem.
If it were up to me, all basic house wiring would be 10 or 12 gauge and absolutely NEVER 14, except when attaching ONE outlet or ONE switch. You can go from thicker gauge to thinner but not thinner gauge to thicker. I would also like to see two electrical boxes. One with a removable decorative plate below the outlet itself, where all the splices are. Never in the box of the actual switches and receptacles. There is a very good reason and use for that, but also goes along with METAL (Steel) boxes. Plastic and nylon boxes should be banned. But that's a different rant for a different time. It has to do with grounding and heat.
I would also like to see each outlet, and each light fixture on it's own breaker. So you might have 4 or 5 breakers for one bed room, or 3 breakers for one bathroom, etc. That ensures you always have power when you need it, and can safely work on another circuit, without taking down half your house. I would even further that by saying that each receptacle that has two outlets also have their own feeder of 12 gauge wire minimum. When I talk about wire (Romex) I am meaning COPPER. NEVER aluminum. However I think the lever wire nuts or even the push ins would be better for joining copper to aluminum. Further still, I would like to see that instead of receptacles with 2 outlets, they only have 1 outlet, with the top half being a switch to control the bottom half. This is for safety AND convenience. These days, you cannot truly TURN OFF, anything. When things are OFF, they're still drawing power in most cases. When you turn something OFF, it should be OFF, not in standby and not drawing any current at all. It should be truly off, and breaking the connection ensures it. So anyway, that's my stance on these things. I'm sure the next generation will be talking about even more B.S. for safety because we live in a society that have people that are SO STUPID, they don't realize that using a blow dryer will NEVER get their hair dry while standing under a shower. Hence the warning tags and the government needing to protect stupid people from themselves. It is a good thing in some cases, but in other cases, it's taken too far, and no doubt it is so that corporate America can get richer off the poor.
I just found your channel and really enjoy your videos. They really are informative. Keep up the great work!
On a GFCI the loads do not need to be connected to the load side of the GFCI. This is only necessary if you want the load to also be GF protected and it may not work if the previous circuit has a shared neutral downstream... the GFCI will trip every time.
This video was perfect for my conversion of an old two prong outlet to a three prong / usb outlet. In my case, I was able to ground from the new outlet to the old metal box.
Thanks for the tutorial! I was able to replace my old outlet that was humming and successfully do it the first time
I too think you should advise your viewers that by using that type or the GFCI receptacle, there really isn't enough room in the standard box for all those wires assuming using the WAGO and a 4th set of pigtail wires.
I think you are right on, especially when you notice the vents this fixture has in the back and the sides, I'll bet there was a very detailed instruction with this fixture explaining the volume of the box required and number of conductors allowed in each volume of the potential boxes.
Thanks!
This was very very helpful. Thank you for sharing. I personally appreciated your effort👍
Wow! I thought for sure I had to use all the ports on the wago, didn’t know you could leave any empty.
Awesome video and thank you for being thorough and explaining ithe different types of outlets and how to deal with the numerous wires. My only question is, where can I get the wires you are using for the pigtails... - Newbie DIYer
This video has absolutely assured me I am doing this correct. Very good job explaining things this has really helped!!
Great tutorial. Loved the tiny bits of knowledge you pepper in.
We have two original wire one white ( hot) one black ( neutral) four others two black hot and two white neutral apparently wired later to add two more recepticles on counter in kitchen, 20 amp breaker what outlet should I use and how should I wire it correctly? Like your videos so much and very helpful. Thanks 😊
Great video! I’m about to wire the outlets in my bus so I’m glad I checked this!
That was beautiful work! Some of the videos I watch, make me realize how beautiful and creative doing electrical work can be.
Great video!
As a pro Pig tailing is recommended which makes trouble shooting for you or a electrician easier and j hooks for the connections. Nothing wrong with using wagos either just double check all connections made no matter what you use
Love these videos! Your explanations are so thorough. Really helps new DIYer's like myself understand everything that is going on. Thanks so much!
Great video, thanks. Looks like pigtails with wagos is the best way to go in all three cases.
In my city it is actually code to use pigtails. Also another way the three sets of wires could be set up is a switched outlet that one of the white wires may be hot when a switch is switched on. This way one outlet is always hot and the other is hot only when switched on. This can be done by removing the little taps on the side of the outlet.
If you have this situation the switched hot wire is usually red. White is always used for neutral never for anything else.
@@1575murray or the white wire is labeled with some red tape (at least you hope it is labeled)
Ya if you find an outlet with a hot white someone didn’t get it quite right
Plus if you have a white for a switch leg it must be taped black or marked black to designate a current carrying or Hotwire
Excellent. The three example receptacles are what we encounter in residences. Your explanation was clear and concise. Thank you.
Don’t get anymore straight forward than this, thanks
Very very nice explanation. I have exactly the same configuration to fix. On the other hand I have an electrical box. To ground it: can I simply put a new pigtail in the ground connector and screw the other end onto the box? (green screw)
I have the Wago 5-socket connectors. (so space for one last pigtail)
Thanks
So I noticed that there are 2 sets of black and white but that the 2 white wires arent coming from the same (wire holder?) but rather its a single set of black and white per (wire holder?). This video has helped me to understand 2 main options I have. I can cap the other set off since Im fairly certain I know what that set runs and dont really care about it, or I can just put the 2 black on the hot side and the 2 whites on the neutral side since Ill also be screwing the other screw down anyways. An issue I did run into though is that I dont see a ground wire at all in any of the housings….. Is there a way to have ground wires put in without having the entire house’s wiring redone? Also does it matter whether these new 3 prong plugs are being put in a housing that doesnt have a ground wire and is it safe to plug a 3 prong plug into the outlet without a ground wire?
After testing for the hot lead you didn’t mention that you turn off the breaker again seems quite obvious but in an instructional video like this you should
I was thinking the same thing.. I thought maybe I was just overthinking or something.
I was just about to make this comment as well.
Corrective criticism is important when working with electric
Thanks for this advice
I thought you were being over critical until I watched this and cringed when I saw it.
Absolutely
Thank you for the idea on the connectors is so much better than using wire nuts which I normally would tape to make sure they don’t come out God bless and stay safe
You got an example of doing the same wiring but for a 14-3 wire? I’d love to pigtail all wires, but the red wire (travellers) are confusing when trying to fit a gfci or regular outlet. I don’t know where to put the traveler wires if you pigtail tjem 😅
Right now I got a 14-3 speed wiring by the builder. And it’s lead to a failure
Really well done video all around! It's clear, well articulated, steps are not skipped, and I feel like I can safely tackle this!
I have a four-gang box in an extension off my kitchen that has a three-way light switch where the other switch is on a different circuit. That was a fun one to suss out.
like a puzzle 😅
Thanks only video on UA-cam showing multiple wires
When I run new wiring, I always bring the "LINE" cable, the one closest to the service panel, into the box from the upper left corner. Helps me once the wall is rocked over again, and (I hope) helps the Next Guy. [DIYer here]
What was the box fill? Using the wago takes up more space than a wire nut. I found by using a wire nut, the wires can be tucked in more neatly into the back of the box. More caution has to be taken when using wagos so the receptacle doesn't push the wires against a sharp object at the back of the box, damaging the insulation and/or conductor also.
He likes taking the easy way out... what you're not seeing in this video is how he struggled for 10 minutes repositioning all his wago'ed wires to get the GFCI to fit. A nut would have worked so much better here.
My experiences is that Wago connectors tend to use less space in a box - primarily because all the individual wires are still free to spin in the connector. That usually lets you pack the wires in the box more efficiently. With a wire nut you tend to get a solid bunch of wires that have much less freedom of movement.
3 sets of wire will fit in 20 cu in box.
There are sharp objects in the back of boxes ! ?. O my. You must have elves sticking things in there . My boxes are usually empty before I strip the wires and feed em in .....................
@@nickleclaire85453 sets of 12-2 wires and those are 14-2 I can assume
Two things,
1. Take a picture of all the connections before starting, this can be helpful.
2. Pigtailing the GFCI is appropriate if you do not want to protect the downstream connections.
Thanks for some very basic yet good to have info that I need to know as I have finally had to take over my homes basic wiring needs.
5:29 is exactly how my outlet is setup and I’m having issues with my garage opener. Will update once I get a fix but good to know this is NOT recommended to be wired this way.
thank you for all the videos that you have been putting. I would like to have your help in figuring it out why we don't have electricity going inside our shed. I can see the power is there outside the shed but someone has done the wiring and I am not able to figure it out why there is no current going inside. Thank you. Jasbir
This is such an awesome video!! I'm going to scour your channel to see if you have a video on this same exact situation but with AL to CU connections! 🤞🏽 Thank you!
Wonderful video. Clearly explained the situation and offered helpful courses of action.
This channel is a lifesaver, probably literally
We are here to help 🙌
Thank you. Great video - best explanation of how to do this that i've come across.
Thank you so much for these videos, really helpful and presented so well!
Great video, but there's always room for improvement. The only knock I have is that you didn't make the plate screws vertical.