PART 2 - 1999 to 2003 ford 7.3L diesel fuel leak interior smell, fuel filter bowl rebuild $save$
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- Опубліковано 16 лис 2017
- Driving my 7.3L diesel moving through the air everything was fine but I began to smell raw fuel smell when I came to a stop with the heat on. The heating system was drawing the fumes right inside.
I discovered a fuel leak. This leak was enough that I also had a drop in mileage. Inspecting for the leak I discovered a puddle of fuel down in the engine valley. It was coming from the bottom of the fuel filter bowl, the water drain valve. It is a tight space so instead of taking half the engine apart I decided to just pull out the fuel filter bowl to rebuild it instead.
It's cheaper to but an entire O-ring kit than it is to buy a new aftermarket water drain valve. The age of the O-rings are the main factor in why it leaked, the O- rings are hard and brittle. The change in the weather, a cold snap they began to leak.
In this video, I'm showing how to remove, repair and rebuild the fuel filter bowl saving big money. This is an easy job that if you take your time should only take a few hours. I hope this helps get back on the road.
This is the only place I found that had all the O-rings available as a kit www.riffraffdiesel.com/complet... I had it quick with regular shipping. Like, Share and Subscribe because you never know what I'm going to do next. - Розваги
All I can say is, "Thank You for the video". I need to get this done and have put it off for too long.
Thanks for taking the extra time and aggravation of recording that repair for us. 👍👍✌
It's no problem, I'm happy if my video helps one person. Thank you for the comment 😊
these trucks are the epitome of "if it aint broke dont fix it". legendary, but grumpy motor.
Just noticed my 2003 F350 was leaking fuel. Went straight to UA-cam and watched your video . Had an idea what it could be but the video definitely confirmed. Thanks
I'm glad I could help. Thank you for the comment.
Great video. Helped me resolve my fuel leak issues.
Thank you for the comment. Glad my video helped 😊👍
One of the best instruction vids I’ve seen yet great job man you sure have put me at ease and I’m fixing to dig into my truck and fix the fuel leak
Thank you for the comment and Good luck 😁👍
Man i just see your two videos and definitely you do a great work and very easy to understand thank
I'm glad they could help you. Thank you for the comment.
Both of your videos were a nice refresher! I have a 2002 that is now requiring a 2nd rebuild....nice to get reacquainted with the process. Thanks for making these videos!
You're welcome and thanks for the comment.
How many miles did you do your first and 2nd?
Thanks for the info. I needed to know what the part numbers were for the Drivers Lines, although you didn't say or show them I can figure out what they are now because you showed what size goes where. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Nonea
Thank you for a very informative video.After watching I believe my fuel leak is in this water drain valve as the diesel fuel when my truck is running is dripping off the end of the fuel tube ! Thanks again !
After years of running an engine the water drain valve o-rings become hard and leak. Almost every 7.3 will leak there eventually. New Regular o-rings will probably last 15 years or more. For a little extra money the Fluorosilicone o-rings will last a lifetime, they stay soft and resilient. I'm glad I could help. Thank you for the comment.
Thanks for this video. I've got an '03, f250, 7.3. I just changed the drain valve for the third time. I've asked and asked around (even at the dealership) why my truck has an appetite for this particular part. Nobody could give me an answer (especially the dealership...they would lose multiple $70 sales...). Now I'll be changing all of the o-rings on the entire fuel boel assembly. Luckily, I've saved my old drain valves. So it appears I'll never be buying another one. Worst case scenario, I just change out the o-rings. Thanks again for the video. Very descriptive and clear instructions.....
Scooter Scarborough I listed the link from where I bought the O-ring kit from riffraff in the description. They were great to deal with and it might be the last time you do this. I'm glad I could help. Thank you for the comment.
Thanks for showing the whole job. Most just say "reassembly is thee reverse of taking it out". Good Job. All with one hand at a time, That is more than I would hope to do.
I try my best to make all my videos so someone, anyone can tackle a repair themselves from beginning to end following my video. I hope my video helps you in your repair and thank you for the comment.
Great Instructional Video. Keep up the Great Work!
Bill Speer thank you for the comment!
Thanks for the video. I have this kit on order. It should be here in a day or two. I currently have no leaks but It won't be long so I thought I would head it off at the pass. I appreciate your help.
It's not that difficult of a job to do, hopefully goes smoothly. I'm glad I could help and thanks for the comment.
Thank you for this video! Just started driving my folks old 03 F250 and it's at 315,000 miles. Trying to do a little extra maintenance for them before I hand her back!
Charles Albrecht thank you for the comment and good luck.
Awesome Brother...especially the gaskets on the feed and return lines, that is a must when overhauling the Fuel Bowl or replacing it New. Your vid gave me alot of insite .
I just saw your post. Thank you for the comment. 😉👍
Thank you so very much. I am a woman that lives kind of in the boonies and to find a diesel mechanic is difficult, but after viewing your video I was pretty sure I could do it myself. The only thing I would have changed about my way of doing this was that I ordered the O ring kit from Riff Raff and didn't use the expedited shipping because I thought it would take me a few days to get the fuel bowl out so why hurry with the O ring kit? Well I had the bowl out in an hour so I had to wait a few days for the O ring kit! But in the end it all was ok. The only thing that was different with my kit was that there was no parts id page, so I had to use the process of elimination in order to figure out which o rings went where- but I got it. Thanks again!
Sucks you didn't get an o-ring ID paper. Riffraff is one of the few places that sells a kit for the fuel bowl rebuild. That's Awesome you got it done yourself, I love ❤ hearing stories like this. I try to gear all my videos for people to do it yourself. I'm glad I could help. Thanks for the comment 😁👍
Thank you for telling me where to find that kid the video was excellent
Charles Bunyard thank you for the comment and I'm glad I could help.
Thanks. watched it all. very helpful
Busha Green I'm glad I could help and thank you for the comment.
Good Job ! No Leaks... Life Is Good
Thank you for such a clear instructional video. I am sick of smelling diesel so I will be off to ford for the o-rings
rose smith in my description I have a link to riffraff where I got the o-ring kit. It Will more than likely be cheaper than buying at ford and their shipping is pretty quick. No I'm Not A Salesman For Them But I Should be. I'm Glad I Could Help And Thank You For Your Comment.
Zero Fuel Required
Cannot find a working link for the o ring kit??
rose smith second video in the description. Here It Is. www.riffraffdiesel.com/complete-fuel-bowl-seal-kit-99-03/
thank you so much!
I will be trying this once the orings come.
rose smith no problem and good luck.
Thank you very much now I know exactly where it goes see when it came out I never seen where when I just bought the van I went to go check the oil and I was so pissed and I pulled the wrong handle like yanked it so it came right out I've been driving it and it's hasn't been giving me any problems no leaks no nothing so I guess I didn't open it
Manuel Dasilva ok sounds good then. The 7.3L is a great engine that can last a million miles if taken care of properly. If you are doing all your own work, most repairs anyone can do and do properly. Do your research to learn about your engine there's tons of information out there. Heat is your transmission's enemy. Look up powerstrokehelp.com great site tons of info. Bill is on UA-cam too. He's got some great videos for 7.3 maintenance. I'm glad I could help.
Thank you so much for this video, I have been having the same problem but I couldn't figure out where it was coming from, now I know how to do it, thank you so much
You're welcome. I'm glad I could help. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks, take your time do it right and you automatically hurry up and finish.
Thank you I'm not sure how to use this phone it's not broken when I pulled it it all came out I just don't know where the other end goes to help I appreciate the help
Manuel Dasilva if you look at my video the drain valve that has a yellow handle has a little hole in it. That's where the end of your cable should go in that hole. The retainer might have fallen off allowing the cable to pop out of the hole and pull completely out.
Buen video yo le hice todo ese servicio al vaso de mi 7.3 porque le mandé a dar servicio a los 8 inyectores todo le cambiaron de adentro y de afuera los puse y le di marcha al principio en lo q cargaban pues se oía extraño de ahí poco a poco se fue normalizando y se oía serenito el motor pero ya que calentó la saqué a recorrer unos 15 km ida y vuelta y resulta q se le oye un golpeteo al motor alguien me podría orientar que será que provoca ese ruido
It's been said that the fuel drain is where the leak is most of the time. Today i measured the thickness of the 2 new seals for the drain, and the depth of the countersink where the seals fit into. I'm just guessing here but i think the reason it leaks from here is there's very little compression on the seals. Since i have a bad memory, i can't remember the dimensions of the depth of countersink and width of seal. I do remember it was approx .007 thou compresssion. Over time the seals are probably getting hard and shrinking. My fix (hopefully it fixes) was to use a Bridgeport mill and mill off .012 thou more off the base of the part the seals fit into. Now it will have .019 compression. If you don't have a mill you could use a file or belt sander if you're careful and good at sanding by hand. It's plastic but there's steel inserts that slide in and out where the 4 Torx screws go. Slide those out first, sand, then grind or file the steel inserts and slide back into part. When you get the part off the fuel bowl you'll see what i'm talking about. It's simple.
Yes it's simple as you describe. I have a Bridgeport mill also. But the reason for most o-ring failures in any part of a vehicle is generally the old o-rings have been compressed, get hard, stay compressed, get cold and no longer keep it sealed. My Excursion is almost 20 years old and this may have been the first time this has ever been done. I think even with shaving off a fraction of an inch and the use of regular O-rings you may have this problem again years down the road and especially so if you live in colder environments. I tell people all the time buy the Fluorosilicone o-rings, they are a few extra bucks $ but are worth every penny. Because they maintain their elasticity over time better than regular black o-rings and you may never have to do this again. I'm not saying your modification won't work, people do plenty of modifications that have great success, only time will tell(it might take 20 years to find out lol). I prefer the Fluorosilicone o-rings over modifying the housing. You idea may work to make this repair last longer, Thank you for the suggestion.
@@ZeroFuelRequired : I took a closer look at the used o-rings. They also seat on the balls inside the drain housing. They're concaved on one side from yrs of being compressed. I took an alum. block and machined it to size and bought a brass valve at Lowe's to delete the entire plastic housing. The brass valve is some weird thread: 24TPI and .430 dia. (not a tapered pipe tap 1/8-27). So i turned the threads off one end, drilled and bored a hole to .383 (valve ended up at .385 dia.) and pressed it into the alum. block. Need to make an extension for the brass valve T-handle so i can open the drain with ease (actually will remove the T-handle and press extension onto shaft)..... Yesterday's comment i said "countersink." I meant counterbore for the 0-rings. Will let you know how it works whenever i get my lazy ass in gear and get it back together.
@@yammerhaw101 you're definitely going above and beyond the call of duty redesigning the fuel drain valve. When simple Fluorosilicone o-ring will suffice. What exactly do you to for a living? Hobbyist? Machinist? Aerospace engineer? Lol. What you're doing sounds interesting. I like to check it out your modification, if you want send me some pics. Zerofuelrequired@gmail.com
@@ZeroFuelRequired: Machinist. Will send pics this week along with brass valve part#. Valve's threads (7/16-24) are not normally used in machine shop. I don't like how the fuel drain plastic housing is hollow around the steel inserts.... Have your email. You can delete it from YT if you want.
@@yammerhaw101 my email is posted on my YT for people or companies to contact me. It's fine.
Complete Fuel Bowl Seal Kit 99-03, Fluorosilicone Drain Valve Orings Set, Parker 60VLV-4 Viton Sleeve (1/4 inch) is that need to do the whole repair?
If you go to riffraffdiesel they make this easy www.riffraffdiesel.com/complete-fuel-bowl-seal-kit-99-03/
On this kit checkmark the Fluorosilicone o-rings and the price will change and be added to the kit. The Parker 60VLV-4 viton sleeves 1/4 only include two in this kit where the fuel line enter the fuel bowl. If you plan on removing the fuel line that run to the cylinder head buy two more. It's easier to remove the fuel line from the cylinder heads when the fuel bowl is removed. Down near the bottom of the page you can download a PDF of the o-ring identification chart. It's handy to have just to see what you get and should come in the kit. Since I've done this video riffraff has created a PDF download of step by step instructions with pictures that is right above the the o-ring identification download(it is also handy to have). That is every thing you need for the rebuild. I hope this helps and thanks for the question.
Where do you get the kit? I talked to oreillys and auto zone and neither of them could find it. I just bought the separater valve to fix for now cause it came with gaskets.
wht240sxka www.riffraffdiesel.com/complete-fuel-bowl-seal-kit-99-03/ they ship pretty quickly, I had mine in 2 days regular shipping. This is where I bought my kit. They were the only place I found that had them all. I'm adding this link to my description. Thank you for the comment and I hope this helps.
Great video! Everything went great but in the end I'm stuck I have 3 sleeves stuck inside the nut on the lines and can't get them out. Any suggestions on how I can get them out. I've use 4 different picks and still can't get them to budge
Curtis Cobb I would say slide the nut back so the flared line is exposed, just so you are sure the flared line isn't interfering with the pick. If the sleeve is stuck inside the nut the sleeve has hardened to the point the only way you are going to get it out is to use a pick and take out a piece of the sleeve at a time until you've got all of it out. Try not to mess up the brass threads on the nut while you do it. It's not going to be easy down in the engine. Worst case disconnect the lines from the head on each side and work on getting the sleeves out on a work bench. You'll need a few more sleeves if you pull the lines. I hope this helps, Good luck and thanks for the question.
Zero Fuel Required thanks I got them out finally appreciate the help
Curtis Cobb no problem, I'm glad I could help and thanks for watching.
Curtis C: I see your comment where you finally got them out. I'm in the process of rebuilding my bowl and one is stuck. I haven't tried picking at it yet. I'm thinking of spraying carb cleaner on the fuel line and the rubber sleeve. After it dissipates, smear some glue on the line only then slide the nut up and let it dry to the sleeve, then pull the nut back. If that fails, take a heat gun and try to melt the thing away - and hope it doesn't explode (haha) or make a hardened, drippy mess which will effect the new sleeve seal.
Better just to keep take off the plunger and spring. Its only in there for dummys who would run the 7.3 without a fuel filter.
Remove it and youll flow more fuel to the injectors which is important.
At 11:22 you show the sleeves for the fuel lines. Another YT video on this fuel bowl rebuild, the guy says the sleeves are only for support so the lines don't wiggle around, not to seal the lines to the bowl so fuel doesn't leak (not his exact words). If he's correct, then the seal is made by a metal-to-metal connection much like certain propane gas lines work, right?
He is 100% INCORRECT. A propane or gas or even brake line compression fitting is all metal either brass or steel to compress all metal flange surfaces to make the seal. The compression collars on the fuel bowl lines and return lines are designed to compress the rubber sleeve to make the seal. There is no metal to metal to make the seal. The steel lines are flared on the end and looks like a metal to metal compression line but they are not. The flare in the line is to properly space the sleeve outward enough when the compression nut is tightened is crushes sleeve filling the gap around the flare in the steel making it properly seal. If any of those sleeves dry rot, those lines leak. End of story. I hope this explanation helps. Thank you for your question.
@@ZeroFuelRequired: When i looked at the end of the steel fuel line a couple days ago, it looked too small, i.e, not enough surface area, to be a metal-to-metal seal. Thanks.
Hi there very helpful on the replacement since I have to do one myself. But I also have a quick question when you are going on the highway. And your doing 65 mph what are your rpms at that speed if you could help with that 2 thanks
If you have stock rims and tires probably about 1800 rpm. I'm running 2013 king ranch 20 inch rims with 37 inch tires and I'm running about 1700rpm in overdrive at 65mph. Hope this helps.
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great fucken video am leaking its time to do mine.i pulled up the site and now I cant pull it up again dame lol
Please State the Company where you ordered the Complete "O" ring rebuild kit in Flurosilicon and the Kit Number. Thanks
The link to the kit from riffraff is right in the video description. Click on it and it'll take you right to the kit. Thanks for the question.
How do you install the water in fuel cable on a Ford 350 Powerstroke need to know installing 1 7.3 L
Manuel Dasilva are you working on a van? Is your cable broke or frozen? If it's froze and won't budge try spraying PB blaster or WD 40 in at the handle till it drips out the other end. Spraying lubricant in it will save a lot of work if it frees up. If it's broken you can get replacements online or eBay. Hope this helps.
Manuel Dasilva I found this online for you that explains it easier than me typing it out to remove the cable if you have to. Hopefully this helps. www.justanswer.com/ford/22aty-2001-e350-cargo-van-7-3l-diesel-cable.html
Thanks for question.
Booths steel lines on driver side I have to replace. How do I get those long lines down under truck thanks. Mine is 1\99 7.3
They aren't as long as you think. If I remember correctly, They are premade front and rear sections. Rear sections go from the tank to the fuel pump inside the frame rail about the middle of your vehicle. The front sections go from the fuel pump up to the engine area. They are prebent and could be particularly plastic or steel. The lines have quick connect spring loaded fittings on the ends. These lines aren't going to be cheap and you might be only able to get them fom the ford dealer or to save money a junkyard. Figure out where your leak is and just replace what you need to replace or if you've got the money laying around replace it all. Double check it's not something else leaking before you replace the lines. I hope this helps and thanks for the question.
Zero Fuel Required. I bought lines from Napa already. The ones from fuel bowl 105 dollars. I disconnected them from the braided fuel lines under truck but I had to take alt. Off ,power steering pump and bracket,four bolts. Still doesn't look like they will slide down through very narrow area. Might get to it tomorrow if I have time. I payed to have my driveway plowed other day. So I have to get this truck done or pay to have snow plowed job is a little more involved than I thought.I can't find a single video on U tube showing my truck. I understand that being manufactured one of 99 makes it different from 99 f350. I'm not very good with computers. But I can't punch in 99 f350 powerstroke ,superduty diesel ,it keeps bringing up same crap ,but no details how to get those tubes run from fuel bowl down along motor. If u get what I mean. But thanks for your reply.
@@johnsellers2999 check out this forum there's a few pictures that might be handy. www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1075688-e450-hard-fuel-line-leak.html
If the leak was cause by this clamp in pictures, stick some thick rubber like a piece of old bike inner tube or wrap it with wraps of electrical tape. Then install the clamp, it'll help protect the line in the future from wear.
I just want to reemphasize what he said about the pressure regulator line.
With the other lines(the supply line and the two feed lines), tighten them until they bottom out. However, with the pressure regulator line, only tighten it enough to get the sleeve to seal.
The return line is under a lower pressure than the supply line so it doesn't need as much ass to tighten. Plus, that housing is aluminum and very fragile.
Yes, you can get a new one if you break it, but do you really want to be out $50 to $80 because you were too heavy handed? It shouldn't leak but if it does, give it a little more. Too little is better than too much.
ref page 10 of www.dieselorings.com/docs/FuelBowlRebuild.pdf
Thanks for the info. 😁👍
At how many miles did you replace your orings?
I had about 170k miles on it at the time.
Where do you get the line that runs through the intake valley? I think mine's bad
moto GP you could try www.riffraffdiesel.com/search.php?search_query=7.3+fuel+bowl+line&x=11&y=9 same place I bought the O-ring kit. They have fast shipping. Or try www.rockauto.com
You ever changed that line? I just purchased a 99 7.3 and just wondering how hard it would be to change
Also what is that line called?
If you aren't sure if the line is bad, see if you can find someone to borrow an inspection camera to look down in the valley before you tske it apart or you order parts. Or home depot has an inspection camera that is cheap and comes in handy for tons of stuff. $79 RIDGID Micro CA25 Inspection Camera
homedepot.app.link/HzE2TCMalJ
SKU# 203258908 that way you know for sure and you don't order parts you don't need. Also it is much easier to replace those lines if you remove the fuel filter bowl. In the video I put my camera down in the valley to show the passenger side line. I hope this helps and good luck.
Zero Fuel Required I'm just making sure that when I change the O rings in the filter that if I need to change that line I can do it while the bowl is removed
My 7.3 leaking there too where did u order the kits from.
I don't get paid for this lol, Riffraff is great company and offer a nice kit to rebuild the fuel bowl. Don't forget to get the fluorosilicone o-ring for the drain valve. Shipping was fast. Good luck on the rebuild.
www.riffraffdiesel.com/fuel-system-o-rings-sleeves-hoses-99-03/
Thank u
Thank you for watching my video. 😉👍
Not a bad job should of left the plunger out , also more cleaning on the inside of the housing
That s restrictive, powerstroke help.com say remove all those parts + spring
ask steevies I personally wouldn't recommend modifying the fuel system if you are running a basically stock 7.3, on a Stock engine those parts are designed to supply proper amounts of fuel, So ...No they aren't restrictive and if anything prevent someone from running the engine without a fuel filter. You might be like so... Well if you don't do your own service to your truck to change the filter and you pay a shop to do it. A mechanic forgets to put a filter in it or does it on purpose, it will run till it sucks Crap into the fuel system causing $1000s in damage. Ford's way to prevent unnecessary preventable damage. Yes it's slightly restrictive ....if you are running a heavily modified 7.3 with larger injectors, heavier fuel regulator spring(more pressure definitely need all new O-rings in fuel bowl), tuner, performance compressor wheel, intercooler, exhaust etc etc. By all means Yes do the mod to remove the spring and internal guts to the tower but if you are doing that don't stop there. Drop the fuel tank clean it and the screen on the sending unit to prevent a possible clog that can starve your engine. Take the Banjo bolts out of each head and drill the holes larger. It's pointless to do one without the other, These mods will make your fuel system flow the most it can. But I still go back to only remove the guts from the Tower if you change your own fuel filter. Thanks for the comment.
Delete the spring and plunger.Better fuel flow more power
I couldn't find at audozone
You can buy the o-rings just about anywhere but they are only sold individually. One o-ring at Ford can be the cost of an entire kit at riffraff. Riffraff sells them as a kit and very reasonable with quick shipping(regular shipping I got my kit in 2 days) . Get the Fluorosilicone ones too for extra insurance they don't leak again. www.riffraffdiesel.com/complete-fuel-bowl-seal-kit-99-03 they have them for all year trucks. I hope this helps and thanks for the question.
Discard the inside guts , more fuel , powerstroke help. Com
Like I replied to you 9 months ago, I personally wouldn't recommend modifying the fuel system if you are running a basically stock 7.3, on a Stock engine those parts are designed to supply proper amounts of fuel, So ...No they aren't restrictive and if anything prevent someone from running the engine without a fuel filter. You might be like so... Well if you don't do your own service to your truck to change the filter and you pay a shop to do it. A mechanic forgets to put a filter in it or does it on purpose, it will run till it sucks Crap into the fuel system causing $1000s in damage. Ford's way to prevent unnecessary preventable damage. Yes it's slightly restrictive ....if you are running a heavily modified 7.3 with larger injectors, heavier fuel regulator spring(more pressure definitely need all new O-rings in fuel bowl), tuner, performance compressor wheel, intercooler, exhaust etc etc. By all means Yes do the mod to remove the spring and internal guts to the tower but if you are doing that don't stop there. Drop the fuel tank clean it and the screen on the sending unit to prevent a possible clog that can starve your engine. Take the Banjo bolts out of each head and drill the holes larger. It's pointless to do one without the other, These mods will make your fuel system flow the most it can. But I still go back to only remove the guts from the Tower if you change your own fuel filter. Thanks for the comment.