My Polishing Procedure: Tools & Materials
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- Опубліковано 27 вер 2024
- My Polishing Procedure Including Tools & Materials
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I've watched this video and went back to work to redo the sanding process instead of trying to buff out all scratches out.
You've motivated and enlightened me, thank you for that! 😅
We use the blue pads a lot at work but only for sanding before the base coat and obviously a lower grit and they last forever but I have the same problem, it doesn't sand the orange peal as fast as the flat disks but I find that you don't need to worry about sanding rings. Try getting a wool pad with heavy cut 3m at a higher speed to cut down the sanding scratches faster. I use the wool pad as a step before the foam pad after the 3000 and I find that it really knocks down those deep scratches fast. High speed low pressure with a lot of compound for the wool. As for the 1500 I have had the same problem no matter what sander I use. I did find that if you use a sander with a 2.5mm hub the sanding scratches from the 1500 are significantly less but then it cuts very slowly. I cant imagine sanding clear with 800 and then trying to get out those deep sanding scratches, that must take forever. Sorry if my terminology is not correct as I live in Germany and all of our products have different names.
Try using water with your 2000 discs ,I start with 1500 dry disc then 2000 wet disc and Finnish with 3000 trizac all Mirka discs except trizac ,Ferecla G360 paste using Ferecla high cut pad it’s fantastic ,but that’s on fresh cured lacquer and lacquer cured a long time is a nightmare to cut slow movement and fast speed is best
This is why i love you reviews, sometimes the truth is hard to hear but a way to better. If i was a Sonax rep. this is what i would wanna hear.
Your correct, 3M have the best abrasives. Their compounds and polishes are decent as well. Their pads are not in the same league but as a system 3M works well. You could go to another brand like 3D or Scholl and that would again lack elsewhere. No system in complete. The foam backing is needed on cars with contours and uneven surfaces. That orange think is flat as :). If your just cutting cars you spray up then you would know already what suits it. But if your cutting factory paint you need different compounds and pads. For Toyota paint, the Carpro Cool Pad Wool/MF is the one to use.
You tried or got farecla g360 over in Australia? 10x quicker cut than the 3m I use that with the green 3m head perfect and then the blue 3m and waffle for refine.
custom jobs, 5+ coats of clear on car. Ive always started with 800 grit for years, but recently started doing 400 grit to start( i know scary) a fellow painter told me i should try it, he says he gets the flatest surface starting with 400, only on the flat areas of panels, no curves. breaking the skin open with 400 grit on a 55 chevy next week, going to let it cure for a while before finishing through the grits.
- 400 grit wet using solid acrylic block, wash clean, dry
- dry guide coat, 800 grit wet using balsa wood block, wash clean, dry
- dry guide coat, 1200 grit wet using balsa wood block, wash clean, dry
- dry guide coat, 2000 grit wet using balsa wood block, wash clean, dry
- cut/buff.
Sounds awesome, but you should look into 3,000 and 5,000 grit, makes polishing so much easier
400 does sound pretty vicious 😮, but I agree, the guidecoat is the key. Currently doing my first polishing job on direct gloss 2k using this method and it's working out very well. (800-1200-2k-3k polish).
Good honest opinion, i'm obsessed with trying to find a decent finish and have gone through nearly all off the products on the market . Farecla do a great compound called 360 with a finishing compound works well on fresh paint . Hard paints like BMW and Audi take a little more thinking about .
Slow hardeners and slow clear coats buff much better some weeks later than fast ones, right? That is my impression. They take longer to close, but when they close, it's like glass. Fast clears sometimes take months under the sun to become hard enough for buffing.
thanks ,check that ! Happy new year🎉Gunman Chiers mate! Great vidios🎉thank you
The worst clear coat to polish is that ceramic clear coat. I forget now but I think Mercedes and BMW use it and it is a nightmare to polish. The only thing that I found that would get out the sanding scratches was super high speed on the wool pad with 3m extreme cut and after that, the swirl was horrific and if your not careful and you don't keep the wool wet it will burn straight through the clear. Just getting rid of the hologram took forever, I had to buff the hologram with 3m fine cut before the swirl remover and it was still hard to get rid of. I hate polishing!!
Some awesome information Mr Gunman.
I'm hoping that you can do the ceramic coating on camera.
✌️ Peace
Coming soon mate 😀
Great video, learned a lot, have you ever tried Menzerna?
I just brought 3000 and 5000 discs bloody expensive
Looking good spares are not cheap when it comes to products so much.
Rupes, pronounced Ru-pay, is the best!
Have you heard of Kovax sand papers? I only hear amazing things about them. Great video as always man!
Yeah that's actually a very good brand
Whats the best trick you know to do to pick up a side job when you have no work at the moment...that gets someone to drop off..and you say ok good hunting i made it again till things pick up.
Do advertising on marketplace or gumtraa, show pics of your work so they can see what you can do.
👍
Hey gunny i keep getti g swirl marks any advice?
3M 3 step rotary, use that system properly and you will not have swirls. Don't forget as you go finer, slow the buff speed down and hold less pressure
3M is called 3M because everything costs 3 million
It’s not just you having problems with the 1500. My paint rep sends a box of 1000 trizact every once in a while instead of the 1000 film style sandpaper and I find they absolutely suck. I would spend 4x as much time sanding. As far as buffing I don’t know as I always start with 2k grit
GUNNY... I hard block with a piece of 1" dia pvc pipe with a flattened side with EAGLE 1500-2000-3000(Japanese manufactured) it is a MUCH MUCH better product, which I thought would be more expensive... it is half the cost of 3M, lasts longer with a more consistant grain size, so it leaves more uniform surface.
Man I love when you do vids like this. A bit off topic, but I noticed around 8:00 in you had some Penetrol on your lower shelf on your work bench and was curious if you have any use for that in automotive applications? I've been primarily into architectural coatings for the last 35 years and I know what we used it for in the past, although I haven't used it as a flow enhancer/paint leveler in years, due to the natural yellowing of white paints especially when it's added. I just think there's better options now available for nearly every architectural paint.
Yeah it's actually good to use like an odourless fish oil, so it will lock the moisture and air out but it's obviously not solvent proof, I find it really handy to just load up on inner sections to stop further rust. It's definitely incompatible with automotive paint so it must be used properly.
after painting 2 k solid white I cut back with a DA 1500 ,2000,3000,5000 and still see scratches.WHY? then used every buffing pad and polish there is but still can't get rid of those scratches.very frustrating
Hey gunny! Have you heard of the denim buffing pad already? Its for OP removal.Keep bringing great content.
I’ve heard some gunman-ANI colaboration spray gun time ago man any update about it?
This is very similar to my method! No need to block every grit up. But I need to get myself some final blocks though!Those seem awesome
They definitely are awesome
How do you feel about rupes polish and pad system? I just switched and honestly love it compared to 3m
I'm not a big fan of Rupes to be honest
Hey Gunny mate
I used to be the body filler, primer, sanding and masking guy.
I got F all time on the spray gun in the shop.
I’m happy to block my whole car with 2000 grit wet and then buff. I only had 4 years experience so my painting isn’t very sharp. But at least with blocking I know it’ll be super flat.
I use a Supercheap DA polisher and it goes hard for the $120 or so I spent on it. Pair it with a carpro denim pad, then a Woolie, using Menzerna products, you might like it bro. It’s probably better than the Sonax and Rupes overpriced combo. Use that saved money for beers 🍻
400 dry single stage scratches under paint maybe not fine enough
Jeez off the gun finish is looking better and better to me $$$$😂
How do I know if my car is a good candidate to have a heavy clear coat refresh, and not too thin?
I can generally tell by looking at it if it's safe to cut back. But there's still a risk of cutting through if you haven't painted it yourself and applied a few extra coats.
@Ivan_5150 I forgot to mention that 😆 I actually have one but didn't think to use it for polishing
Recently, I did a job, starting with 1000 dry on the DA (no interface pad, stikit backing), then 2,500 wet with a block by hand, then 3000 trizact. 3M polishing system. Huge time saver in the sanding phase. I have never jumped grits that far, but it totally worked.