How to Remove Orange Peel
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- Опубліковано 27 вер 2024
- In this video, we will be removing all the orange peel in the boot of my 1975 LH Torana.
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In my eyes, you’re absolutely the best painter on UA-cam, you do the most excellent work you should be proud of yourself and I’m sure you want my friend. I would do anything for you to lay some paint down on my Honda.
Looks incredible. Yes, 4 coats of clear but no more with 2K clear. All that sanding, priming, more sanding, more priming, bloody everything, colour, clear coat, more sanding, buffing and much more. All that hard work because we just love our hobbies. The car looks incredible and will do so for many many more years, cherish it.
That boot looks fantastic Gunny you can see the difference in the peel from before you started to when it was finished, the lights in the reflection are really sharp with no wavering when you move the camera👏🙏👍John UK
Great to see more tore content Gunny. Looking amaaaaazing.
Looks killer Man! Your getting that buffing down!! :)
Get a festool electric sander. Not cheap, but.. well. Best. I have ETS EC 150/3 Sander. Better then mirka in my opinion.
I have polished so many cars. I did a lot of private work when I was younger and where I painted had a lot of dust no matter what I did so I had to polish every job. I hate polishing cars! I agree that 3m makes the best products but another company that makes good polish is a German company called Menzerna.
Man I love that color. Have you tried Festool sanders? I know they're expensive, but they are the best I've ever used. The RO 125 and RO 150 are amazing. Surfprep interface pads fit perfectly on them for heavily contoured areas, since Surfprep makes the best interface pads on the planet. Both the RO 125 & 150 can switch from course sanding to fine sanding to polishing with the flip of a switch. If you're ever in the market for a smaller sander, their RO 90 has an interchangeable head to switch from a round pad to a delta head, (triangle), which is perfect for thoroughly sanding corners, and it as well can sand & polish.
Try Mirka deross electric sander and you dont want use festoll never ever anymore. So much more powerfull, lighter and smaller machine.
Beautiful job Gunny. So should I look forward to seeing you at the next show n shine?
When moving up the grits how do you know when youve got all the previous scratches out? if i sand with 1000 i always have problems by the time im buffing, even when i feel like ive been on each stage for too long. i was taught to work 1000-1500-2000-3000-wool-polish
Need sunglasses to look at that😎
outstanding Z ,very therapautic
Very nice job 👍
Ive never heard of using rupes for sanding just for polishing i guess, but im not autobody as trade just finishing work for many different types of material. Depensing on the place if it was more pnematic based it was ingresol rand air type tools with 3m type pads. Sorry for the typos.
Sorry bad night because a dog is gunna have to get put down due to cancer spread throughout.
Immaculate
Lol looks edible mmmm
You’re off the gun finish was better than my after polish finish 😂
I have been using the 3M Trizact disc for my wet sanding with my DA Dynabrade Spirit for my wet sanding. The 1500, 3k, and 5k, then using my rotary polisher. I find the 3m trizact last a long time
Hell yea brother 🤘 haha what ever way you tackle it. Its still just alot of work but once its done its done. 😅
Outstanding ❤
Hi gunman, I've tried quite a few different sanding/polishing methods over the years, but the one that wins hands down for me is the current method which i've refined over the last couple of days. Working with direct gloss 2k Wanda paint, 4 coats and it's had about 3 weeks to cure up. It had a lot of dust in it so i spent a couple of hours first with the tungsten and then attacked it with 800 grit using the Melomotive acrylic and black blocks. The next step (that i've added in the last few days) was to guidecoat it at this stage and go over it again with the 800 until all the defects and orange peel were gone. At this stage it is now as perfecly flat as i want to go so all the remaining steps are purely getting rid of the 800 scratches. Next step is dry guidecoat and then using the thin melomotive black block with 1200 until all the guidecoat and 800 scratches are gone (red block in some places). More guidecoat and then using 2000 grit until all the 1200 scratches are gone, then 3000 trizact with the foam back. I don't bother guidecoating the 2 to 3k step but it pays to be pretty thorough with the 3k trizact. No machine sanding, lots of water and a bit of time. The only polishing i have sofar done is with the Colad One-Step polish on rotary polishers and wool pads. Results are the best i have ever had to date. Definitely worth a try! flic.kr/p/2psbEZQ
Wow, your doing an awesome job.
I've been buying up everything to start the polishing job on my ride.
So thanks for sharing the knowledge man.
Peace ✌️.
I polished a few cars outside in the summer and didn't clean off the polish splatters and the polish got baked off the car and took longer to get off the car than it took me to polish the car.
Looking good 👌 nice to see you enjoying your own cars after all these years.
Great job Gunny, it's very extremely satisfying watching your progress on this build. 👍
Looking mighty sharp Gunny!
It's coming up a treat Gunny.
I have 8 litres of car paint, 4 part A and 4 part B. Its unopened from about 10 years ago. Is it stuffed or still ok? Ta.
If it's been sealed well and it's solvent then it should be fine. Add a bit extra thinners if it's starting to dry a bit. Water paint can freeze if it gets below 0°
Great work, man! The foam backed pads won't take out any orange peel. They are just for refining scratches. Looks like you're getting the methods down, looks amazing