And looks like Ariens listened to you - gas fill doesn't jut out anymore. Don't know about the 52's blade longevity and aftermarket availability though.
I just lift mine up by hand and put it on a block of wood. The front-end on these zero turns aren't that heavy. Most of the weight is in the back with the engine.
Thanks for watching. You won't get anything but honesty on this channel. Ive6got more content coming on this mower. Not Ariens, just this model Ariens, model number 918.
No disrespect intended but IMO, putting the mower on the tailgate is much safer than using a jack of any kind. Been doing it that way for nearly 24 years and have yet to have a mower fall or roll off. Thanks for watching.
@@thecuss6817 literally changed my blades using a paint bucket and just laying the front of my 50" timecutter right on a empty 5gal. Lol took a strong back but got it up and changed the blades fine. Using what i got in a hurry to get back to work haha. Dont recommend using a 5gal bucket to noone though. Be smart and not like me. Next time id use trailer ramps.
Me too. Like the way you got the deck up. Blade bolts looked a little more than hand tight. No antisieze. Country yards that you mow yourself don't need the upward suction blades. Flatter the better. Suction blades throw up dust in dry weather and, according to other sources, contribute to dulling the blades.
Not surprised; I have a Gravely model L with a rotary plow attachment. At nearly 60 years old, it needed a new bearing. Went to my supply house and Gravely, even then, had a size that no one else has. There was still a Gravely dealer here and they were still able to get me a new bearing. Now, that dealer is gone and likely I won't be able to get a replacement.
Buy you a pair of digital calipers and measure that bearing, then hop on mcmaser-carr. Gravely isn't big enough to be getting bearings custom made just for them, doubt any mower manufacturer is for that matter.
I worked in ball bearing engineering for several years. Often ball bearings that are 100 years old are still around. What gets lost is the cross referencing.. so a 6203 ball bearing us in a model A Ford generator and all my 90s and 80s era alternators too.. The unique things are seals and shields . Grease. The side to side clearance of the balks in the race. If preloaded axial you have a higher slop so the contact angle is better. Some bearings are custom with a freak width or bore size but not too common since costs more since a variant. A Electrolux vacuum model F I have from the late 50s has a roller skate bearing on its motor. My Dads 1985 Toros forged spindle housing has 6204 bearings the same as mowers use today too. 20mm bore.
You were interesting to watch. You were very informative and made us want to watch your video all-the-way through. You were humorous at times and also educational. A BIG thank you😊
Thank you so much for that AWESOME response, and THANK you for watching. I do my BEST to be as informative as I can be without being boring. A little humor mixed in breaks up the monotony and makes the information easier to absorb. Again, THANK YOU for watching.
Great video! I remember mowing my grandparents grass, I don't know how many acres, with their '58 Wheelhorse. All those years and the blades never wore out like that, they were sharpened over and over and over. It of course wasn't a nice zero turn but nothing ever wore out or broke except drive belts. Great content!
Thank you and thanks for watching. I'm a FIRM believer in maintenance, whether it be belts, blades, oil, filters etc... Unfortunately, things aren't built to last anymore. We now live in a "disposable" society. When something breaks, it's more cost effective to replace it than fix it.
@MrCountrycuz thanks for watching and sorry for the delayed response. I'm familiar with sears and at the risk of sounding dumb, I'm not sure about the suburban part. Can you expound on that part?
They are for my Zoom 50, same shape, from new was getting aftermarket blades on Ebay, buying in 3- 6 sets at a time. My yard is 1.5 acres, do it in 1.5hrs, but 2-3 cuts is all I gat before resharpening the blades or new replacements. My Zoom takes that same blade and they are reasonably priced on Ebay. US made also. The biggest issue I have is the lack of good soil here where I live in Michigan, it is all sand. So the blades get sand blasted each and every cutting at 3.5inches. The Zoom series is so-call residential, but the next one up is 60in and for the money I could spend a little more time on the air ride seat that I put on it. The mower is now 8 years old and still operates like new
Thank you for watching. Do you have any problems with debris blowing out the front of the deck and plumming from out the front of the deck? My ariens would cover us in debris. I told the dealer I'm dealing with now and they called Ariensco on my behalf and they sent a baffle set at no cost to me. It completely eliminated that issue. Over time, I've done everything that should've been done at the design and engineering table from the get go. Am I happy with it? NO. Not because it doesn't cut good, but because it is a daily maintenance grind to keep it work ready.
My repair guy gets mostly Oregon blades. I tend to run mulching blades even though I discharge the clippings. They seem dinner and never a clump. I have wanted to try Kavili blades, they just aren't readily available.Thanks for the video.
@BigSouthOutdoorsTV Maybe you could just put a spacer..... And just run a normal straight blade... Or run it with no spacer and just adjust the height of your deck a little differently... Probably only like a half an inch difference I would think
These spindles don't have bolts, they have threaded studs much like a craftsman less the star to hold the blade. With the blade installed, there is just enough thread to tighten the nut with full threads. Yet, another design disaster.
I had the same issue when I bought my cub cadet with a 48 inch cut. I changed the spindles to match a Blade that did not still have patent rights attached because the Cub Cadet Blades were almost twice as much and were very thin. This is strictly a money grab by manufacturers. Redesign Blade, Retain rights for 10 yrs., Charge extreme prices for said Blades and make them cheap so they wear out quickly. They are all scam artists.
I would build a tank neck guard to mount in front of the cap, a tapered aluminum cone if that makes sense. Great mower other than those two things I think.
@BigSouthOutdoorsTV You can use PVC pipe. It's easy to bend when heated and add some "ramps" to the front and back so stuff will ride over it instead of hooking it. Or you could just watch where you're going. Haha! You probably don't remember because you were trying to duck your head out of the away when it happened.
I was planning on buying a gravely 48” or 52” mower for our property in Florida. This was a very good video. You mentioned with using the “better” blade needing to run the mower a bit slower? Could you elaborate on that? Thanks!
@johnforsyth8414 Thanks for watching. Yes I will expound. The reference I made to going slower was simply because the aftermarket blades are slightly shorter than the OEM blades and may require a slower speed to cut all the grass.
Your cut height changed from the offset blades to the straight blades. I’ve got a Spartan SRT-PRO 54”, & I’ve had the same issues there as well. I’ve done some research & checked thru different blades looking for a cheaper alternative as well. I’d found an aftermarket Kubota replacement blade. But, it had a larger size bolt hole that the Spartan 5/8”. I’m a machinist by trade, so I made a simple hat spacer/bushing for that fix. As far that fuel tank, in my opinion, your gonna b replacin more of those! The neck sticks out to far, & will snag on plenty of bushes & limbs. I do understand buyin a mower on a right now basis! Ya nvr know what you’ve bought, ‘til ya use it for a bit? Best of luck to ya!!
It did affect the cut height. I just set the deck, measured the blade height and set the deck height adjustment where the blades would be at the appropriate cutting height. Ie...in order to cut at 2.75 inches, I have to set the height at 3.25.
@dudleycornman1624 the threaded end of the spindle shaft is not long enough to put a spacer on. It would take up to much of the threads and not allow the nut to tighten properly.
On the blade length, I’ve actually cross-referenced different blade length to close the blade gap. Where the ends of the blades get worn down, or wet grass may leave a missed streak as u turn. I had a 72” Bad Boy that I used 2 different length of blades on, to fix its problem. The factory blade length is 24”, I used a 24-13/32” blade on the outers & a 24” blade in the center. Or, I could use the 24” blades on the outer & the 24-13/32” blade n the center, either way? But that 13/32” (.406”) closed up the gap up to fix my streaking problem.
To put that label on product, "Made in America from Globally Sourced Parts". means a small %age of parts based upon value came from almost any country - China, Japan, Vietnam, Taiwan, Mexico, Canada, etc. In California, the %age is 5% unless the parts are not available in the USA, then it's 10%. But given that, the label is a lot better than "Made in China". Even well known American brands (Ford, Chevy, etc) are assembled in foreign countries. Jobs gone.
Thanks for watching. Listen to what I said. I never said every single, solitary part on the machine was produced in America. "Made" can mean many different things. In this case, it means "ASSEMBLED". It's not shipped in from overseas. It's assembled in the plant in Brillion WI.
I have used my Zero Turn mower to mower on our church soccer field. Here in Florida, we have a lot of sand instead of soil. After mowing the field, the lift edge was gone, and the cutting edge severely rounded. Now when I mow that field, I use an old set of blades, and just throw them away afterwards. Sand blades would help, but not available for my model.
Thanks for watching. Have you ever tried Copperhead blades by Rotary? They are high lift blades with a sand relieve divot that allows sand to bypass the lift edge and drastically reduces wear n the lift edge. Check out my blade comparison video. Here's the link... ua-cam.com/video/dRRVXYegNWI/v-deo.htmlsi=VL0HxDqYbZvLcquR
I use the Gravely 44HD and it uses the same blades as the 48" and needs a 47" opening for gates. The model is 991090 with a 6 gallon tank before they changed to 5 gallons to make it look sleek. Everything is going to looking sleek and the needs of the end user is not being met.
Exactly. I don't give a happy about sleek. Does it cut grass evenly the first time through, is it going to cost me an arm and a leg to operate and maintain and is it built to last. Those are the criteria that matters to the end user.
@markchidester6239 I respectfully disagree. To the average home owner that is trying to "keep up with the Joneses", maybe, but for the lawn pros, most all, including yours truly care FAR MORE about cut quality, durability, and LOW operating costs.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV I agree, all industries are selling concepts and making fools of consumers making and selling half A** products spending millions in research on how to fool us and then advertising to make us think it's what we need. It has become the American way and it's so sad.
Thanks for watching. I do everything "outdoors". There is nowhere to use an engine hoist. I'm considering a ridgid high torque 1/2" impact. They have RAVE REVIEWS.
You're welcome. I'm glad you found it helpful. Please consider subscribing if you haven't already. If you already have, welcome to the Big South family.
Ariens bought the manufacturer of my mower (Locke Power Reel Mower) & closed the company. I guess that eliminated a competitor. I now have a Bob-Cat zero turn that I'm very happy with. It has blades like your Gravely. I now about an acre weekly & only have to sharpen the blades a couple times per season.
Thank you for watching. I have operated bobcat machines in the past and yes, they seemed to be a good product. In 2008, after doing much research and "testing" many different brands, I kept going back to Gravely. I looked at JD, bobcat, dixie chopper, husqvarna, exmark, redmax, cub cadet, but I kept going back to Gravely. At that time, I had a friend that owned one tell me that if I ever bought one, I'd never have anything else. He was right. It's not about the engine or transmissions. Every commercial brand uses either Kohler or Kawasaki. It's the build quality. The frames, front casters, decks etc...that to me, set them apart. Watch my 1,200 hour review on my Gravely 452. The thumb nail reads "NO REGRETS". That will explain everything.
Is Ferris mowers available to you in your area? They are made top to bottom here in central N.Y. Great machine and have full suspension, even on the 48 inch "residential" model, which isn't residential at all.
@gregpeterson5067 thanks for watching. Not readily. The nearest dealership is 60 miles away. That's not that far but, when it comes to servicing, parts and repairs, it's quite inconvenient to drive that distance each and every time. On a different note, I've always been leary of the suspension on Ferris mowers. Over the years, I've had multiple guys that operate them tell me that they scalp the grass when the suspension activates. One told me that he is constantly having to lift the deck to prevent scalping. My big machine are Gravely's. Gravely has proven itself to be tough as nails. They cut great, ride very well and have great dealer support less than 20 miles from me.
@mr.lambfries3236 Thank you for watching and for those kind words. I've had so many ugly comments telling me how "unsafe" it was. I've been using this method for over 20 years, and I have til yet to have any issues. Glad my content gave you an idea you can use to make your life easier.
Agreed, the high lift blades width are the same as many standard blades, but because of the lift it doesn't leave much room for a cutting edge that can be sharpened more then once or twice, and high lift blades typically don't have a thick edge on the cutting edge either because of the balance of the blade thus why the edge deteriorates so quickly
@brettraglin8939 thanks for watching. As I've mentioned in many responses, the cutting edge isn't the issue. If you look closely at those blades, the cutting edge is in fairly good shape. The lift edge is what discentegrates. That happens so quickly because the blades aren't hardened. It's a catch 22 situation really. In order to cut once, you need a high lift blade. On the other hand, high lift blades don't last as long as lower lift blades. That's why I chose to go with the flat oregon blades. Although they're flat and I have to compensate with the deck height adjustment to get the proper cutting height, they are hardened and last 3 times longer.
I bought a simplicity zero turn and have the same issue with the blades in fact my dealer didn’t have any in stock and it took a week to get them. I looked all over for aftermarket non available nothing even close.
Thanks for watching. Measure your new blade diagonally from cut edge to lift edge. Whatever the measurement is, look for a blade that is that length that has the same size center hole. That's what I had to do.
Same prob with my Kubota... only one place i know besides Kubota where I can find OTK blades that fit. Not TSC or any chain suppliers that I have found... only a local auto parts store that carries a lot of stuff for land owners.
I almost bought the exact same mower in the spring. The blades thing doesn’t bother me but good to know. The gas fill is a concern though. My toro has plenty of battle scars from over the years and I’m sure I might have a problem with that fill tube. Glad I decided to wait another year.
Thank you for watching. There is a LOT about the Ikon Envy that needs to be redesigned. I was not made aware it was a "new model" until I had made the purchase. That's one of many reasons the thumbnail and title of this video is what it is. If you're still in the market for a new mower, check into the Gravely ZT. It's the extreme lower end of commercial but still fits the bill for residential use.
They had those offset blades in the 60s. One benefit for longer blades is that the offset can get you an additional 1/2 horsepower or so in heavy thatch such as st augustine where the non cutting edge isn't rubbing on the thatch.
Don't like ariens over the gravely, even though the same manufacturer, I use gravely as my backup!? My main mower is the Scag, turf tiger 61, Best on the market, hands down!!
Thanks for watching. Although Ariensco owns the Gravely name, they DID NOT design the machine. I feel the same about Gravely as you do about Scag. There aren't any Scags in this area, NC. The nearest dealer is over 100 miles away.
My hustler raptor plastic around my fuel spout busted all to heck so I bought a plastic welder that basically heats up staples so you can fix the cracks back in place and save a lot of money.
Good idea. When I get the time, I'm going to use gas safe apoxy to do my repair. Thanks for watching and for the idea. I'm going to look into that, and I may end up doing that instead.
What we used to do to change is: Leave the mower on the trailer with the mower facing rearwards. Then park the mower with its forewardmost wheels stopped right at the rear edge of the trailer deck with the deck raised. Laying on the ramp, using a piece of plywood or cardboard, we always had plenty of room to change the cutting edges. It's great for when the ground's wet and also makes it a little easier to get up after! Your blades are all junk. We used our blades about 6 hours a day. They were sharpened once a week and changed twice a season only.
Thanks for watching. The position of the mower is dependent on the angle of the gate. That's why you see me using the ramp. It increases the angle. I'm a big guy and need the extra room. I don't know how you get away with sharpening/changing blades twice a season. I sharpen and change blades every week. Dull blades cause the tips of the grass blades to turn brown, and customers do not like that. I've been doing this for 25 years now, and my system works well.
Thanks for watching. I had another similar comment. All I did was set my deck to 3.00 inches and measure the cut edge of the blade. It was 2.50 inches. I normally cut at 2.75 inches. At that height, I just set the deck to 3.25 and it cuts perfect.
Thank you for watching. The blade you saw in this video was the only blade available for this machine at the time and they cost $84.00 for 3 of them. That's why I went to the Oregon blade for the Dixie Chopper. It's only 1/16" shorter which makes no difference at all when cutting, and they last several sharpenings.
I can see that someone could make good money mfg the blades for these mowers. My grandfather used to weld stalite on the cutting edges to harden the blades so they would last and stay sharp longer. He had a Kubota.
Thanks for watching. With these blades, the lift edge wouldn't last long enough to justify having that done. I'd love to apply that to all blade lift edges.
I just bought a 52 inch ikon. I had the OEM deck belt snap in like 5 min. I found that no one seems to make 151.5 inch belts. And they are 100 bucks. I found that the 150 inch belt works and is 20 dollars. It has not snapped. This is my first experience with ariens and I am not impressed so far. We will see if the blade/belts are the only problems I run into.
Thanks for watching. It seems that Ariens level of quality depends on what you buy. Just as any other mower line, the more "commercial" it is, the higher the quality. That's why I'm sticking with anything Gravely from the ZTHD and up to the 600 series. Anything lower is garbage.
I can't understand a commercial mowing company wanting to mow slower just to save $18. I think you should consider charging a little more or just being able to mow more in the same time, then $20 more on blades is money well spent.
Thanks for watching. Where did you get $18.00 from? The factory blades for this mower were $84.00 for a set of three. The aftermarket blades were $37-38 dollars for three. It's been a long time, but I think that around $47.00 difference. That's a far cry from $18.00.
@pontiacg445 I went to the time stamp you referred to and watched what you were referring to. The figure I gave was a guesstimate off the top of my head. The ACTUALL price for the OEM blades at the time this was filmed was $74.86. Divide that by 3 and that's $24.95 per blade. The Oregon blades for the Dixie Chopper I featured in this video were $14.57 per blade...X 3 equals $43.71. A difference of $31.15. When you're in business and every dollar counts, that's a SIGNIFICANT difference. Regardless of which it is, $18.00 or $31.00, especially when you have to buy a new set every 3 weeks, any money you can save is HUGE. I understand the confusion I caused but it wasn't my intention to create it.
All alloys and heat treatment are not equal and weight alone probably is not a good judge. Adding heavier blades may not fit the engineering of the drive components. The Ariens blades may be better suited for well maintained lawns. The turbulence caused by the lift in those blades would be a blade tip erosion problem where there is a lot of loose dirt and grit. But the lift would likely give you a better manicured appearance to the lawn. The moral of the story is that the blade needs to be tailored to the stuff you are mowing and the appearance that your customer is looking for. So you need to load up the right equipment for the jobs you have scheduled. Personally I would keep the Ariens for manicured lawns for a nicer cut and the prevention of weed contamination. Set up your trailer to make quick blade changes, sharpening and deck cleaning.
Thank you for watching. That is good information but, from experience, the Oregon blades cut far better. This has nothing to do with wear, stress or anything of the sort. This mower has the same spindles my Gravely 452 has and the same clutch. Only difference is the engine size. My first Gravely has a 23 hp Kawasaki engine with a 52 inch cut. 21.5 hp is MORE THAN ENOUGH for 42 inch cut. This is all about money. That's why they put a patent on those blades. They litterally blocked the aftermarket from being able to reproduce that blades design and sell them cheaper. The Oregon blades are $38.00 a set(3). The oem blades are $27.85 each. $27.85 × 3 equals more than double what aftermarket blades cost, $83.55 for 3 blades. FOLLOW THE MONEY.
bought an ariens edge 36" er a couple of years ago ... runs really well ... cuts really well ... I have about 3/4 acre inner city ... got the 36" so I could keep it on my enclosed back porch ... 70+ years old
Thanks for watching. I'm glad you're having success with your purchase. Unfortunately, I haven't had the same fortune. This machine, at this moment, is "out of service" for structural repair.
Thanks for watching. I got the part number from the parts manual that came with the machine and checked the load capacity of each spindle before I installed the blades. With all due respect, I've been doing this for 25 years. I know what I'm doing. The video was long enough, I didn't think it was necessary to include that too.
It's all some pompass jerk in the comment trying to be smarter than an experienced veteran (jerk go play your video games & continue taking your equipment to the shop like you always do
Thanks for watching! I have now used the oem blades, copperhead blades made by Rotary and the Oregon bladed featured in this video. In all honesty, they all cut about the same used or not. The Oregon blades, by FAR, last the longest. Although it is true the flat blades throws the cutting height off, it is EASILY compensated for by setting the blade tips on 3 inches and measuring the actually blade height. Mine was 3/4" off. So, if I want to cut at 3.25 , I just set the deck height pin at 4.00" and I'm good to go.
Good video! The Arion is residential mower. Looking at the thickness of the metal is a good sign. The sound of the transmission from the Gravely to the Arion is alot different . Gravely is much stronger mower. Any how great video, good insight and content.
Thanks for watching. I had a craftsman z6400. The only thing lighter built on it was the stamped deck. The craftsman had many of the same components as the Ariens with 2 exceptions. The craftsmahad 2 blades and the ariens has 3 blades. They market the Ariens as a "heavy duty" residential mower. My craftsman z6400 weight more than the ariens.
That Icon series is really for residential only. Aries Apex series is there middle of the road mower for larger lots and some commercial. I find it better to use factory parts for everything, and my cuts are real nice. Good luck with all the hard work I do some on the side also.
I responded to your other comment. I find myself have to clarify myself to a lot of people that don't seem to understand that I knew it was a residential machine. I bought this machine because of that very fact. As I stared in my.other comment, I had been running a Craftsman Z6400. It was made by MTD. When I bought it, it was used and had 149 hours on it. When I sold it, it had over 600 hours on it, and the man that bought it is still using it. That is why I felt comfortable buying this Ariens. I was told by the dealer that it was a superior machine to the craftsman in every way. IT'S NOT! It's a P.O.S. I have spent a lot of money just keeping it going. As I stated, had the dealer told me, "you need something heavier and more commercial", I would've listened. They told me it would be a much better machine than what I had. THEY WERE WRONG.
Made in USA, that's one of the reasons I bought a new Gravely last summer, so far so good. I think you are right about the filler neck on the other mower. It sticks out too far and could be very easy to damage. You more than likely hit a tree branch without knowing it. Thanks for the video
Thank you for watching. My dad always said if it ain't broke....and we all know the rest of that statement. Engineers aren't happy until they complicate something. If they had left well enough ALONE, the fill cap would've gotten damaged. On previous year models, it was located on the same side but on TOP of the fender behind the seat. Whatsworse, the dealer I purchased it from told me it was not covered under warranty. The dealer I'm trading with now, told me it most certainly was covered by the warranty. THAT, to me at least is a MUCH BIGGER problem and one if the many reasons I no longer trade with them.
I'm going to put another gas tank on my troybilt on the other side the same kind of gas tank that comes with it I'm going to put one on the other side so I got two of them
When a blade is dull the grass bend back and wears out the blade i cut grass for years in Florida it it is how you matain your mower in sharping the blade thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching. I change my blades weekly. I have a system where I rotate them according to date of purchase. As they move up in the stack, they get good sharpening and put on the mowers.
Well, I am sorry for the issues you have and have had. Mine must be a rare bird. I was going to rebuild the deck this winter, but I have had trouble with an engine overhaul on one of our cars and that has me wishing I had done differently. I almost traded up on the mower a couple of years ago, but decided not to do it. This Zoom 50 still has the original belts operating, heck, the battery lasted 6yrs. I did put an air ride seat on it early on, because it rides rough w/o the air ride seat. I don't recall ever having a problem with blowing stuff out of the mower deck front area.
Well, all in all, I'd 100% agree with you being pissed! It's bad enough forcing their customers to use proprietory blades, but if they can't even make a GOOD quality blade it's adding insult to injury! I can understand why they're designed like that, and there're good reasons for it, but the way they're going about it will just alienate potential buyers and certainly those who've already made the purchase of the machine! Sure, one can fabricate spacers, and use longer HT bolts, to use the blades one prefers - but one SHOULDN'T need to have to resort to that to get blades that are up to the job. That fuel tank design is one of the most asinine designs I've seen in a looong time - it's bad enough that it's sticking out in the breeze waiting to be broken off, but it means the whole tank needs to be replaced instead of just a neck. So, you have some excellent points there, but while it says "Made in the USA", that means assembled*, as the rest of the label clearly states it uses parts from other countries, too. It may be mostly US sourced parts, though, to be fair. *Other terms that may be misleading are "assembled", "packed", etc. Not sure about the current state of affairs, but for many years Honda and Toyota had more US sourced content than any of the "Big Three", on their cars made on the US assembly lines, because they used their own US factories for their parts. Oh, forgot, you may find this amusing - way back in the sixties, you could buy cheap plastic toys marked "Made in USA" - there was a Japanese manufacturing town that renamed itself "USA", so it was technically correct.
Thanks for watching and WOW, what a response. This situation is partly my doing. When my craftsman z6400 went down unexpectly, I had to have a small mower...FAST. I didn't have time to do proper research, I bought the first 42" cut machine I found. If I had it to do all over again, I'd run, not walk away. All I can say is...LESSON LEARNED. It is a great machine other than the issues I mentioned in this video.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV I think we've all made a decision, or purchase, we regret later. I call them BAD decisions - Best Available Data - it was the best call we could make on what we knew at the time. Along the same lines, I call 'mistakes' "learning experiences" - the initial mistake is annoying, but if one can learn something from it, it can be some recompense. It's when I repeat the SAME 'learning experience' the real problem lies. As it is, you should be able to have some spacers machined to place the cutting edges at the correct depth, and that will also allow you to have the pilot machined to the correct diameter for your favourite blades' mounting bore. That fuel tank, though - NO POSSIBLE EXCUSE for that FUBAR design that should never have reached the drawing board/screen, let alone production.
Gosh I don’t have any of these problems with my John Deere 915B. I run 2-3 acres and change the blades before the season starts and about half way through. It holds 13 gallon and uses no more than my former tractor mowers, the Cub Cadet 1050 or the John Deere L120. I have the 60” cut on the zero turn.
Thank you for watching. This machine is not a commercial grade machine. It's more of a heavy duty residential, much like a cub cadet zero turn or a craftsman zero turn. I used to have a 2005 craftsman z6400. Other than the stamped deck, it was built much "heavier" than this mower. I maintain 6-7 acres a day. When you cut the volume of grass I do, you HAVE to keep your blades sharp. I change blades every week.
@Rosedach are you referring to a "mulch/chute guatd"? If so, the was that deck is designed, I would have to weld on the deck. Doing so would void the warranty on the deck.
It's a relief to see a guy that ain't worried 'bout get'n a bit dirty. You did an awesome job at teaching. It's obvious you're smart and know your stuff, but you aren't condescending. You're respectful, which is a rare virtue nowadays. 👍🏻 I subbed a couple minutes in...👍🏻 Thank you for doing this for us.
WOW! I'm humbled. Thank you for watching and for those kind words. I am not the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I do my best to have my ducks in a row before filming. Thanks for the sub and WELCOME to the Big South family.
If you hard face those blades with a 7018 welding rod, you won't have to sharpen them but every couple of years. Nobody does it but me, I guess. But I ve been a mower mechanic for decades. Saves a lot of wasted time underneath the mower.
Thanks for taking the time to watch my video. That's something Worth looking into. Also something I've never heard of. The problem is, blades used every day won't last near that long. The lift edge wears through long before then. As you saw on this video, the cutting edge wasn't the issue. The lift edge was useless after only 18/19 hours of cutting. If there was a way to extend the life of the lift edge that would be AWESOME.
I would use a 7024 rod in the weak area, while it's thick enough to weld on. 7024 beads are flat, so you won't need to grind them down or anything. It will alloy with the blade metal, and should last two or three times as long. It's harder than the blade so it won't wear as much. If you choose to hard face the cutting edge, get the beads as smooth as you can, or it will take a long time grinding to get an edge back on it. I would guess two seasons then a touch up sharpen. The different metals will weigh different than the blade metal so try and get the same amount on both sides. When you go to sharpen the blade, you'll wonder if the grinder is doing anything. It won't be that easy to tell. You can see the metal is gone in the middle of the thrower. Just build it up an inch wide, make it thick. It's a harder metal. The blade might last three or four years if you do it right. It won't wear like the old one. It'll wear a little bit then you can put another pass or two on it next year. The harder metal will just polish up from the grass. They're making soft blades that wear out in the middle. They're not going to sell you blades that might last five years, or even three. I hard faced a set of blades with 9010 rod once, and it took forever to sharpen them but they stayed sharp for three years. Just my push mower. But I mowed yards back then. Yeah that whole middle about an inch wide needs built up on that blade. I would bet it'll last two years no matter how much you mow. There's probably something designed about the mowing deck that's throwing the grass all out to the edge, so it's sliding across the blade on its way out instead of going up away from the blade. I'd make a pair of hard blades out of some regular blades, and just see how long they lasted. That will tell you what you need to do to them. But yeah they don't advertise about hard facing mower blades. So what's your blade guy going to say when you don't buy any more for a couple of years? I'd love to see that picture...
Agree whole heartedly on hard surfacing the blades. I service dozens of commercial mowers and hard surface with nickel, resharpen and rebalance. Generally get three or four times the life out of them.
@@rogerray7820 this idea is intriging to me. I spoke with a metallurgist and he told me that doing so is a catch 22 situation. He said it's expensive to do and although it absolutely will extend the life of the cutting edge, it won't extend the life of the lift edge. That's how blades wear out. It's not the cutting edge that is no longer useful, it's the fact that dust, dirt and grass itself literally eat away the lift edge. Adding material before use would most certainly make the blade too heavy and a waste of money doing it after. His words, not mine....new blades are cheaper.
Airens probably won't move the filler to the rear near the engine for fire safety. Just my observation. I had a Poulan Pro tractor style mower that I purchased a new fuel tank for, then found out that the original fuel tank had a recall on it. AYP/Husqvarna wouldn't reimburse me for the fuel tank because I am not an "authorized service center". Swapping out a fuel tank, and checking for leaks is elementary work, but they don't think so.
@Thomas-ul3uy thanks for watching. Funny thing is, the filler neck had been on the operator left arm side for several years with, to my knowledge, zero issues. WEIRD!
🤣🤣🤣 Yep! Ariensco is not getting good feedback on their poor design. If you watched the whole video, and I hope you did, I ran the Oregon blades for 13 hours. I sharpened them and ran them for another 9 hours. They've good for one more sharpening. They've performed well.
It has to do with the material and thickness of the blade. Some blades are harder. Example. Every honda blade lasts 10 times longer. I have already cut blades to fit for my applications
Thank you for watching and thanks for the kind words. I'm far from an expert. The info I give is from personal experience. I'm not a mechanic, I'm just a working man that works on my own stuff as much as I can.
I own the Ariens Zenith for 3 years and I have had no problems whatsoever never change the blades but I don't mow my grass low or wet grass either I mow 4 inches or higher.
Thanks for watching. When you mow every day, changing/sharpening blades weekly is a MUST. Otherwise, the grass blade tips turn brown. That is a sure sign the blades need sharpening. Some guys put sharp on every other day. That is kind of overkill IMHO.
Call copperhead mower blades, talk to tech service and give them the spec's of the OEM blades. They may be able to help you out. They make blades with the same offset.
Thanks for the advice but, unfortunately, with the patent, no aftermarket blades are available. The ones in this video just happen to be the same dimensions even thought they are for a Dixie Chopper.
@robertlam-qd1xb after speaking with ariensco, not knowing how it got damaged, they said it was most likely operator error and wouldn't offer any resolution. I love my Gravely, but this experience has left a BAAAAAD taste in my mouth for Ariens as a company. It will be years down the road but when that day comes, I'm SERIOUSLY considering going to another brand mower.
Brian, the blades I use on my Zoom 50, same as yours shape wise. I order blades off of Ebay, aftermarket blades, You can order 1-10 sets or more at a time and save $$$. They are made in the USA and I get up to 3 cuts on blade usage, weather new or sharpened.
Thanks for letting me know. I will have to check to see if they have them for a 42" cut. The blades for this machine have a patent on them, and as of the filming of this video, there were no blades available in the aftermarket world. That's why I went with the flat oregon blades featured in this video. I called Rotary, Stens and USA blades. None of them had blades the same shape and length as the OEM bldes.
It was. It was also unnecessary. Poor design was to blame for that. I had a Craftsman Z6400 and its fill cap was located where I stated in this video this one should've been located. Last years Ariens Ikon model was designed completely different. Thanks for watching. If you have subscribed, please do so. It would help the channel and I'd really appreciate it....very much.
Great video i have been landscaping for 37 years Just bought a new Wright stander 48 not happy the gas tank should always be on the the right side of the mower just a dumb design . As a landscaper you know we all try to get as close to the edge of every thing we cut less time on the trimmer
Look at encore before hand! It's the best mower I've ever used! And ice tried all of them! I'm not a dealer! I'm a owner operator lawncare service! You'll love the price and how much heavier duty they are!!! Plz don't just dismiss it cuz you don't know about them ( if you do cool) but wow! 52 inch is small ass I can go!
I love you man!!! I operate a Yazoo 61" Master Mower retired from Chicago Park District that is wildly over designed from 1998. Twin cylinder TJD wisconsin engine (yes I had to rebuild it once). The trans is a Rockford that upon rebuild (one time) resulted in clutch plates that wore less than 0.001". I'm a retired engineer & machinist, and that machine is built like a tank. My blades are offset, and are close to 1/2" thick. I sharpen every 2 years. Of course, its only cutting 5 acres per week, but I shave the earth every other week .... cutting at the street. I had to rebuild the deck once ... I had my mower parked outside for years. Upon rebuild, I made it bullet proof. My blades are keyed to the spindle. I think the original designer was a genius. I made it better. It's noisy, so I added another muffler so it looks like a "chopper". Yes, I'm crazy but I need quiet so I can listen to music while I cut. I'm not ready for something new while I operate the oldest lawn mower in my county. I love your channel, keep posting.
I wish you was my neighbor. Seriously. We need more good people like you. You have made this video and it has nothing to do with me, yet i continued to watch. Just wanted to hang out with ya. If that makes sense. Wish you well brother. Keep up the good info. God speed!
Thanks for reporting and the trouble you went through to make this video, Brian. Do you still use the OEM tires you got on that "96 F-150? or the oil or brake shoes? Just get the heaviest ,hardest, and thickest 14 in. blades (preferably Oregon ) with 5/8 in hole that you need, and after a week or two, order another set and just switch them out every two or three weeks after you take a file or flap wheel to the sharp edges and bottoms. I get the 42" restriction on the width of you machine and the huge contrast in quality after that Craftsman. I use a floor jack and a couple of jack-stands (Harbor Freight) to support and change the blades on my 600 lb. 54 " BadBoy. That fuel tank filler tube De-laminating is an Ariens design flaw.and probably should be recalled by the National Highway Traffic Safety Board (NHTSA) or equivalent in your state ; just a few phone calla and the pictures from your UA-cam video ,and tell Ariens that you're thinking of running those same pictures to your lawyer, too. Fuel leaks are BIG Deals. Wishing You well, Brian .
WOW! Thanks for watching and for that GREAT response. It was full of great info. Although I still have Ole Gertrude, she's retired. We're in the process of going through her and getting her road worthy for Nate to use as his daily driver. I'll look into the fuel tank safety issue. In all honesty, I never considered or even thought about reporting it. Food for thought.
I just guessing that you probably hit a tree branch that was sticking out just far enough to hit the tank because you would have felt it had it stuck the tire and tank. What a bummer. I have a 48 Encore Edge (budget commercial $5900) and love the dual tanks 9gal. Best of luck and be careful. ✌️✌️✌️✌️
I have the upgraded one, get it! It's worth it! The FX engine is a beast and only uses 1 gal per 2 acres of hilly land!!! Love the 4500 hydros! Did you find Gator blades for it?
Putting a thin weld beed,, on the ends of the original blades may resolve/ help the splitting blade pitch issues...... i used to wax the inner decks and i run walk behinds with sulkeys for the gate issues, hydro lesco that is
Thanks for watching! Good thought but As long as there are alternative blades I'm not spending time trying to weld, grind and balance blades. The Oregon blades I featured in this video work very well. Time is money and as long as I can get them at a reasonable price, I'll stick with them.
24 years in lawn care for me. Sand? Some but not much. Most of my accounts are borderline muddy. Look at the difference between the oe and Oregon blades. I got 3 sharpening out of the Oregon blades. As you saw, 18/19 hours and the oe blades were shot.
I spent 20 years as a fleet mechanic with as many as 20 mowers running all day in very dry and muddy condition. Remember, it's all grit. Now some blades may be softer than others and not all mowers have the same blade speed.
@henrysmith8012 thanks for watching. Exactly! The blades for this machine are NOT hardened. I found that out AFTER filming this video. I thought it might be a defective set of blades so, I bought another set. Turns out they WERE NOT defective. We cut in even wetter conditions and I got the same result. The long and short of it, the OEM blades are JUNK.
You are exactly right about the blades being very soft. If you cut a whole day long . You have to sharpen the blades. And the next day the same. Then you have to get new blades. And I live in the mountains of N.C. But I love the engine and power . I have Ikon XD 52
Thanks for watching. Not all Ariens machines are lemons. They changed the design on the envy 42" cut in 2023. The 2022 models was completely different. I'm glad you've had success with your choice. Best of luck in the future.
The lawn mower I got carries 103 inch belt and it's $60 102 inch belt is 10.00 I cut the end of the tensioner off and redrill the hole belt works great
Thanks for watching. Yes, it was easy, but EXPENSIVE. If they had loated the fill neck on the back where I described in the video, it wouldn't have been an issue. I wish they would involve end users in the designing process of these machines. Wishful thinking I know.
right on man. good points. i ride an x mark lazer z w 60" . blades are 50$ a setand i getabout 3 sharpenings before they are toast. buttheyare thick. i sharpen with a belt sander and an angle jig.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV yep .thats how i used to do it. i made the angle jig from old car parts. it keeps blade at correct angle and i remove less metal to achieve a nice uniform edge. i can shave with these . keep blades cool by dipping in water bucket when too hot to hold. keeps the temper in the blade. actually can get 4 sharpenings per blade and each sharpening goes 18 hrs on avg. i mow high thick pastures not nice lawns. except my lawn. 🤣.i also break rules by throwing grass to the inside and mulch itas i move it to a center location. clean cut and no grass clumps . my pastures look like a golf course for a week. less bugs and healthy grass . throwing to center alao removes most weed seed and keeps weeds away without chems.
@@KevinFreist I stripe grass. Watch some of my lawn are videos. After cutting, I go back over it and redisperse the clippings. Either way works well but I don't cut hrass lower than 3 inches. In this NC heat, if it's cut much lower, it will cook it. When I sharpen blades I usually use the blade close to the center, the most unused portion of the cutting edge as a guide to get the 30° angle. I've thought about getting an all American blade sharpening system just haven't pulled the trigger on that yet.
Thank you for watching and.....THANK YOU! I found out at the dealership I am dealing with now that the gas tank WAS covered by the warranty. The dealership I bought this machine from, the one I left after 22 years of trading with them, it was NOT covered under the warranty. Another reason I am no longer trading with that dealer.
Thanks for watching. I wish I had time to scrape decks. I usually lift the deck, stick it in a pool of standing water, turn the blades on and lift the deck up and down. It doesn't get every morsel of grass off but it does that the majority of it.
There are a few of my clients that have sand but most aren't. I've spoke to two others that had the same issue I had, premature blade wear. The Oregon blades I installed on this video are still on the ariens mower as of today, 6-7-23. They have 12 hours on them and other than the missing paint, the look almost new. The patented ariens blades are obviously made of very soft material.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV I did some research and it seems like the Ikon, Gravely ZT-X, ZT-XL don't have after market blades like you said. Things like the Gravely HD and up and the Ariens Apex(which is the step up from the Ikon) do. The blades on those are about .2 inches thick while the one that's for the Ikon and the gravely ZT-Xs is only .16 inches so I'm guessing the .20 inch blades are more high quality.
As a gardener for 20+ years i can say this base on years of experience, bought a route with a mix of yards some nice yards and some with nothing bit patches of weeds and weedy grass, I was replaceing blades very often all looking like the ones you show in this video, for a reason not worh mentioning i separeate the account with nice lawns, and after just cutting this nice yards i dont have to reaplace the blades for months, so if you make dust when moving for sure you are removing life on the blades
Thanks for watching. How do you do that? I don't have time to stop and change blades. All blades, regardless of ground quality stir dust, much like a helicopter blade. Only difference between the two is a mower creates suction where a helicopter blows downwards. The end result is the same, DUST. No metal blade is going to last any length of time and give a quality cut traveling at those speeds that close to the source of the damage.
A few things to look for when buying a zero turn. Depth and thickness of the deck, standard blades that are not bent stupid and gauge wheels in the 4 corners and in the middle of the deck. You will find that John deere makes a great commercial mower even though I am a kubota guy. I personally have a kubota commercial mower and I absolutely love it. The city runs Deere and I like that even better. Magmow blades fit on both. Awesome blades.
Thanks for watching. No offense intended but I wouldn't have a JD if it was given to me. Stamped decks don't last. My Gravely has almost 1200 hours on it and the deck still looks brand new. I've seen the magmow blades. Never used them though. I would have to check to see if they would be cost effective. If they're like tweels, most likely not.
I have a Dixie Chopper and it is 20 years old. On second set of blades and the blades are perfect. The weight of the blades shouldn't affect the mower deck.
Thanks for watching. With all due respct to you, and I want to reinterate, this is nothing personal, if you've only used 2 sets of blades in 20 years, you're either not using it much, not cutting a lot of acreage or you're abusing it. Even a full residential mower should have new blades at the first hint of lawn growth in spring. Not doing so puts unnecessary stress on the belts, spindles, bearings and if it's an electric pto, it overheats and shortens the clutch's life. When blades get that dull, you're no longer cutting grass, you're beating it to death.
Thank you for subscribing and for watching. BEFORE you pull the trigger on that purchase, may I suggest you watch this video FIRST.... ua-cam.com/video/or-QxPETcjg/v-deo.htmlsi=taZaxv0ZKxkaqryJ
Ariens is like a cheap Gravely. Have a two year old Gravely zt48. Very fast mower. Cut 4 acres. Sharpened once. Heated the edges cherry red and quenched in water. Also have a 1996 Sears (by AYP). Has 12 x 12 x 26 tractor lug tires. Still use it for cutting saplings, brush and ditches when wet and the steep banks around my shop and pulling the Gravely out when it gets stuck. Its blades are .200 thick spring leaf material. Two issues with the Gravely. Brake cable broke and it did not come with Donaldson air filter. Has one now.
Thanks for watching. My pro turn 300 and 452 doesn't have a brake cable. This ariens does. The Gravely's brake system is contained inside the hydrogear pumps. I don't run factory blades. Too expensive. I run the HD copperhead blades by Rotary. The last FOREVER.
If I were to guess where you hit gas cap and side panel is backing off trailer. I back my wife"s ZTR mower into its storage area each week so she does not have to back up and I can tell you, they are hard to back up straight. See if your trailer railing has a matching scrape. My Up Nort accent loves your Dixie accent.
Thanks for watching. I have tested that theory myself and in order for that to have happened with the trailer, it would've had to happen driving up onto it because I don't back my machines on the trailer. To tell you the truth, I have run a thousand times and for the life of me, I don't know how or where it happened. Thanks for the compliment on my accent and again, thanks for watching.
Thanks for watching. 918 model number, RUN! That is the EXACT SAME TURD as this Ariens, just has red paint. STAY AWAY from it. If you're looking at the Gravely line, look at the proturn Z or ZX. They are the entry level commercial but many buy them for personal use. They're only a grand or so more but are FAR better built than the "RED" Ariens.
I bought an Ariens Ikon XD 52 with the Kawasaki. I've had it for almost 4 years and have had zero problems with. I even used it commercially for a year, Gator Blades and all... It runs/cuts great. I agree that you should be able to use aftermarket blades. Sorry to hear you haven't had a great experience.
Thanks for watching. They redesigned the envy and changed a lot of things and NOT for the better. I'm glad to hear you've had good success. I wish I could say the same.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTVI'm not going to lie. I'm a little jealous of the lights on yours! 😂 😂 Not sure when I would use them but I like them. I've looked at adding lights to mine just for fun. 👍👍
Thank you for watching. That's one of the reasons I started using Oregon blades. They work just as good even though they are completely different, plus they're available everywhere.
Aaron's built my Craftsman 20 years ago had the same shape blades they were $90 to replace. The reason for the shape of the blade at the time was so you could add a flat one on the bottom so it could be a mulching deck. That way both cutting edges were at the same level
Thanks for watching. Absolutely not. I made sure of that before I installed them. The dealer told me they are capable of handling up to a 52 inch cut blade length.
Not a landscaper, dont own a zero turn, watched whole video, good consumer info, you seem like a good dude, best of luck with that machine
Thank you for watching and for the kind words. I try as best as I can to present accurate info. Thanks again for the encouraging words.
It’s pretty grass, got to love a man that cares about his grass.
We care about ours and our customers...
I have a Ikon 52in cuts like butter and I love all the features. Very well built machines with the Kawasaki engine.
Thanks for watching!
And looks like Ariens listened to you - gas fill doesn't jut out anymore. Don't know about the 52's blade longevity and aftermarket availability though.
Love my 52" Ikon
I have the same unit. Cut my two acres twice now. Love it so far. We shall see.
@mitchg.5125 it looks the same to me on the Lowes website
I use my engine hoist to pick the mower up almost vertical where the blades can be removed standing up while holding a beer with the free hand.
I prefer doing things outside if possible. I'm a firm believer in using what you have, and I don't have an engine hoist. Thanks for watching.
That’s a sweet set up👍🏻
@@sweetdrahthaar7951 thanks for watching and for the awesome comment. It's taken me 24 years, one step at a time to get here.
thats why kubota zds are smart they have build in jack on the front of theres @@BigSouthOutdoorsTV
I just lift mine up by hand and put it on a block of wood. The front-end on these zero turns aren't that heavy. Most of the weight is in the back with the engine.
Great video. I appreciate your honesty and information about these mowers.
Thanks for watching. You won't get anything but honesty on this channel. Ive6got more content coming on this mower. Not Ariens, just this model Ariens, model number 918.
I've had a Harbor Freight lawn tractor jack for a decade, was about $90. I recommend that for ease of blade/deck maintenance and for safety.
No disrespect intended but IMO, putting the mower on the tailgate is much safer than using a jack of any kind. Been doing it that way for nearly 24 years and have yet to have a mower fall or roll off. Thanks for watching.
Keep doing it your way, I'll do mine !!!
@@thecuss6817 literally changed my blades using a paint bucket and just laying the front of my 50" timecutter right on a empty 5gal. Lol took a strong back but got it up and changed the blades fine. Using what i got in a hurry to get back to work haha.
Dont recommend using a 5gal bucket to noone though. Be smart and not like me. Next time id use trailer ramps.
I guess I do it the redneck way, I pick it up with the front end loader .
Propriatary consumables are a deal breaker for me.
Thanks for watching. Me too. That's what the title of this video is what it is.
There are a ton of manufacturers that make that style blade.
Me too. Like the way you got the deck up. Blade bolts looked a little more than hand tight. No antisieze. Country yards that you mow yourself don't need the upward suction blades. Flatter the
better. Suction blades throw up dust in dry weather and, according
to other sources, contribute to dulling the blades.
Not surprised; I have a Gravely model L with a rotary plow attachment. At nearly 60 years old, it needed a new bearing. Went to my supply house and Gravely, even then, had a size that no one else has. There was still a Gravely dealer here and they were still able to get me a new bearing. Now, that dealer is gone and likely I won't be able to get a replacement.
Thank you for watching. If you lived in NC I could hook you up.
Buy you a pair of digital calipers and measure that bearing, then hop on mcmaser-carr. Gravely isn't big enough to be getting bearings custom made just for them, doubt any mower manufacturer is for that matter.
@@pontiacg445 just go to a bearing house they can get anything. Seals also.
I worked in ball bearing engineering for several years. Often ball bearings that are 100 years old are still around. What gets lost is the cross referencing.. so a 6203 ball bearing us in a model A Ford generator and all my 90s and 80s era alternators too..
The unique things are seals and shields . Grease. The side to side clearance of the balks in the race. If preloaded axial you have a higher slop so the contact angle is better.
Some bearings are custom with a freak width or bore size but not too common since costs more since a variant.
A Electrolux vacuum model F I have from the late 50s has a roller skate bearing on its motor.
My Dads 1985 Toros forged spindle housing has 6204 bearings the same as mowers use today too. 20mm bore.
I’m currently using a bad boy mower with carbide tungsten blades. 4 hours cutting per week. I only sharpen 2 per year. Don’t need more.
Thanks for watching. We cut nore than 4 hours in a day. Doing commercial lawn care, carbide tungsten blades are not cost effective.
You were interesting to watch. You were very informative and made us want to watch your video all-the-way through. You were humorous at times and also educational. A BIG thank you😊
Thank you so much for that AWESOME response, and THANK you for watching. I do my BEST to be as informative as I can be without being boring. A little humor mixed in breaks up the monotony and makes the information easier to absorb. Again, THANK YOU for watching.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTVkoijiytn
Great video! I remember mowing my grandparents grass, I don't know how many acres, with their '58 Wheelhorse. All those years and the blades never wore out like that, they were sharpened over and over and over. It of course wasn't a nice zero turn but nothing ever wore out or broke except drive belts. Great content!
Thank you and thanks for watching. I'm a FIRM believer in maintenance, whether it be belts, blades, oil, filters etc...
Unfortunately, things aren't built to last anymore. We now live in a "disposable" society. When something breaks, it's more cost effective to replace it than fix it.
Same with the Sears Suburban’s
@MrCountrycuz thanks for watching and sorry for the delayed response. I'm familiar with sears and at the risk of sounding dumb, I'm not sure about the suburban part. Can you expound on that part?
What you talking g about I don't have a sirburban
They are for my Zoom 50, same shape, from new was getting aftermarket blades on Ebay, buying in 3- 6 sets at a time. My yard is 1.5 acres, do it in 1.5hrs, but 2-3 cuts is all I gat before resharpening the blades or new replacements. My Zoom takes that same blade and they are reasonably priced on Ebay. US made also. The biggest issue I have is the lack of good soil here where I live in Michigan, it is all sand. So the blades get sand blasted each and every cutting at 3.5inches. The Zoom series is so-call residential, but the next one up is 60in and for the money I could spend a little more time on the air ride seat that I put on it. The mower is now 8 years old and still operates like new
Thank you for watching. Do you have any problems with debris blowing out the front of the deck and plumming from out the front of the deck? My ariens would cover us in debris. I told the dealer I'm dealing with now and they called Ariensco on my behalf and they sent a baffle set at no cost to me. It completely eliminated that issue. Over time, I've done everything that should've been done at the design and engineering table from the get go. Am I happy with it? NO. Not because it doesn't cut good, but because it is a daily maintenance grind to keep it work ready.
My repair guy gets mostly Oregon blades. I tend to run mulching blades even though I discharge the clippings. They seem dinner and never a clump. I have wanted to try Kavili blades, they just aren't readily available.Thanks for the video.
Oregon blades have always been great for me, but I was unaware that they're not avail for this particular mower, and no one told me that beforehand.
@BigSouthOutdoorsTV Maybe you could just put a spacer..... And just run a normal straight blade... Or run it with no spacer and just adjust the height of your deck a little differently... Probably only like a half an inch difference I would think
These spindles don't have bolts, they have threaded studs much like a craftsman less the star to hold the blade. With the blade installed, there is just enough thread to tighten the nut with full threads. Yet, another design disaster.
I had the same issue when I bought my cub cadet with a 48 inch cut. I changed the spindles to match a Blade that did not still have patent rights attached because the Cub Cadet Blades were almost twice as much and were very thin. This is strictly a money grab by manufacturers. Redesign Blade, Retain rights for 10 yrs., Charge extreme prices for said Blades and make them cheap so they wear out quickly. They are all scam artists.
Thank you for watching. I feel the same way. No machine should be built for the explicit purpose of wearing out prematurely, even down to the blades.
I would build a tank neck guard to mount in front of the cap, a tapered aluminum cone if that makes sense. Great mower other than those two things I think.
Great suggestion but with the plastic that surrounds the neck I know know of that would work without a ton of modifications.
My thought as well...
@BigSouthOutdoorsTV You can use PVC pipe. It's easy to bend when heated and add some "ramps" to the front and back so stuff will ride over it instead of hooking it. Or you could just watch where you're going. Haha! You probably don't remember because you were trying to duck your head out of the away when it happened.
Gas tank issues probably caused by someone else driving
I was planning on buying a gravely 48” or 52” mower for our property in Florida.
This was a very good video. You mentioned with using the “better” blade needing to run the mower a bit slower? Could you elaborate on that? Thanks!
@johnforsyth8414 Thanks for watching. Yes I will expound. The reference I made to going slower was simply because the aftermarket blades are slightly shorter than the OEM blades and may require a slower speed to cut all the grass.
Your cut height changed from the offset blades to the straight blades. I’ve got a Spartan SRT-PRO 54”, & I’ve had the same issues there as well. I’ve done some research & checked thru different blades looking for a cheaper alternative as well. I’d found an aftermarket Kubota replacement blade. But, it had a larger size bolt hole that the Spartan 5/8”. I’m a machinist by trade, so I made a simple hat spacer/bushing for that fix.
As far that fuel tank, in my opinion, your gonna b replacin more of those! The neck sticks out to far, & will snag on plenty of bushes & limbs.
I do understand buyin a mower on a right now basis! Ya nvr know what you’ve bought, ‘til ya use it for a bit? Best of luck to ya!!
It did affect the cut height. I just set the deck, measured the blade height and set the deck height adjustment where the blades would be at the appropriate cutting height. Ie...in order to cut at 2.75 inches, I have to set the height at 3.25.
I custom fit blades as well... bigger hole, hat spacer whatever. All I care about is they are the right length. :)
@dudleycornman1624 the threaded end of the spindle shaft is not long enough to put a spacer on. It would take up to much of the threads and not allow the nut to tighten properly.
I saw that to
On the blade length, I’ve actually cross-referenced different blade length to close the blade gap. Where the ends of the blades get worn down, or wet grass may leave a missed streak as u turn. I had a 72” Bad Boy that I used 2 different length of blades on, to fix its problem. The factory blade length is 24”, I used a 24-13/32” blade on the outers & a 24” blade in the center. Or, I could use the 24” blades on the outer & the 24-13/32” blade n the center, either way? But that 13/32” (.406”) closed up the gap up to fix my streaking problem.
This gentleman has done his homework! Thanks for the video.
Thank you for watching. I'm not perfect, but I do try to be as accurate as possible.
To put that label on product, "Made in America from Globally Sourced Parts". means a small %age of parts based upon value came from almost any country - China, Japan, Vietnam, Taiwan, Mexico, Canada, etc. In California, the %age is 5% unless the parts are not available in the USA, then it's 10%. But given that, the label is a lot better than "Made in China". Even well known American brands (Ford, Chevy, etc) are assembled in foreign countries. Jobs gone.
Thanks for watching. Listen to what I said. I never said every single, solitary part on the machine was produced in America. "Made" can mean many different things. In this case, it means "ASSEMBLED". It's not shipped in from overseas. It's assembled in the plant in Brillion WI.
I have used my Zero Turn mower to mower on our church soccer field. Here in Florida, we have a lot of sand instead of soil. After mowing the field, the lift edge was gone, and the cutting edge severely rounded. Now when I mow that field, I use an old set of blades, and just throw them away afterwards. Sand blades would help, but not available for my model.
Thanks for watching. Have you ever tried Copperhead blades by Rotary? They are high lift blades with a sand relieve divot that allows sand to bypass the lift edge and drastically reduces wear n the lift edge. Check out my blade comparison video. Here's the link...
ua-cam.com/video/dRRVXYegNWI/v-deo.htmlsi=VL0HxDqYbZvLcquR
I use the Gravely 44HD and it uses the same blades as the 48" and needs a 47" opening for gates. The model is 991090 with a 6 gallon tank before they changed to 5 gallons to make it look sleek. Everything is going to looking sleek and the needs of the end user is not being met.
Exactly. I don't give a happy about sleek. Does it cut grass evenly the first time through, is it going to cost me an arm and a leg to operate and maintain and is it built to last. Those are the criteria that matters to the end user.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV You got a Amen Brother!
Ugly doesn't sell.
Cool looking sells better than performance.
@markchidester6239 I respectfully disagree. To the average home owner that is trying to "keep up with the Joneses", maybe, but for the lawn pros, most all, including yours truly care FAR MORE about cut quality, durability, and LOW operating costs.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV I agree, all industries are selling concepts and making fools of consumers making and selling half A** products spending millions in research on how to fool us and then advertising to make us think it's what we need. It has become the American way and it's so sad.
I use an old engine hoist to pick up the mower. I just pick the front end up and I use my Milwaukie m18 1/2" drive impact to bust them blades off.
Thanks for watching. I do everything "outdoors". There is nowhere to use an engine hoist. I'm considering a ridgid high torque 1/2" impact. They have RAVE REVIEWS.
Thanks for the valuable information. Watching from the Navajo Nation USA.
You're welcome. I'm glad you found it helpful. Please consider subscribing if you haven't already. If you already have, welcome to the Big South family.
I think it’s awesome that he replies to his subscribers!!!
We love our Big South family...
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV I’m from the South Mobile Al, but have and currently live in Birmingham Al, yes us southerners know how to treat folks!!!
@@PamelaBrandonChromeFoto southern hospitality in action.
Ariens bought the manufacturer of my mower (Locke Power Reel Mower) & closed the company. I guess that eliminated a competitor. I now have a Bob-Cat zero turn that I'm very happy with. It has blades like your Gravely. I now about an acre weekly & only have to sharpen the blades a couple times per season.
Thank you for watching. I have operated bobcat machines in the past and yes, they seemed to be a good product. In 2008, after doing much research and "testing" many different brands, I kept going back to Gravely. I looked at JD, bobcat, dixie chopper, husqvarna, exmark, redmax, cub cadet, but I kept going back to Gravely. At that time, I had a friend that owned one tell me that if I ever bought one, I'd never have anything else. He was right. It's not about the engine or transmissions. Every commercial brand uses either Kohler or Kawasaki. It's the build quality. The frames, front casters, decks etc...that to me, set them apart. Watch my 1,200 hour review on my Gravely 452. The thumb nail reads "NO REGRETS". That will explain everything.
Is Ferris mowers available to you in your area? They are made top to bottom here in central N.Y. Great machine and have full suspension, even on the 48 inch "residential" model, which isn't residential at all.
@gregpeterson5067 thanks for watching. Not readily. The nearest dealership is 60 miles away. That's not that far but, when it comes to servicing, parts and repairs, it's quite inconvenient to drive that distance each and every time. On a different note, I've always been leary of the suspension on Ferris mowers. Over the years, I've had multiple guys that operate them tell me that they scalp the grass when the suspension activates. One told me that he is constantly having to lift the deck to prevent scalping. My big machine are Gravely's. Gravely has proven itself to be tough as nails. They cut great, ride very well and have great dealer support less than 20 miles from me.
this video is totally worth it for the idea of the ramp rig you set up to change the blade! Thank you!!
@mr.lambfries3236 Thank you for watching and for those kind words. I've had so many ugly comments telling me how "unsafe" it was. I've been using this method for over 20 years, and I have til yet to have any issues. Glad my content gave you an idea you can use to make your life easier.
All high lift blades degrade much faster in my experience. I only use medium lift for that reason. Nice video!!
Thanks for the tip!
Agreed, the high lift blades width are the same as many standard blades, but because of the lift it doesn't leave much room for a cutting edge that can be sharpened more then once or twice, and high lift blades typically don't have a thick edge on the cutting edge either because of the balance of the blade thus why the edge deteriorates so quickly
@brettraglin8939 thanks for watching. As I've mentioned in many responses, the cutting edge isn't the issue. If you look closely at those blades, the cutting edge is in fairly good shape. The lift edge is what discentegrates. That happens so quickly because the blades aren't hardened. It's a catch 22 situation really. In order to cut once, you need a high lift blade. On the other hand, high lift blades don't last as long as lower lift blades. That's why I chose to go with the flat oregon blades. Although they're flat and I have to compensate with the deck height adjustment to get the proper cutting height, they are hardened and last 3 times longer.
I bought a simplicity zero turn and have the same issue with the blades in fact my dealer didn’t have any in stock and it took a week to get them. I looked all over for aftermarket non available nothing even close.
Thanks for watching. Measure your new blade diagonally from cut edge to lift edge. Whatever the measurement is, look for a blade that is that length that has the same size center hole. That's what I had to do.
Same prob with my Kubota... only one place i know besides Kubota where I can find OTK blades that fit. Not TSC or any chain suppliers that I have found... only a local auto parts store that carries a lot of stuff for land owners.
I enjoyed your video, May you be blessed with work to do.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the blessing. May the Lord bless you and keep you.
I almost bought the exact same mower in the spring. The blades thing doesn’t bother me but good to know. The gas fill is a concern though. My toro has plenty of battle scars from over the years and I’m sure I might have a problem with that fill tube. Glad I decided to wait another year.
Thank you for watching. There is a LOT about the Ikon Envy that needs to be redesigned. I was not made aware it was a "new model" until I had made the purchase. That's one of many reasons the thumbnail and title of this video is what it is. If you're still in the market for a new mower, check into the Gravely ZT. It's the extreme lower end of commercial but still fits the bill for residential use.
They had those offset blades in the 60s. One benefit for longer blades is that the offset can get you an additional 1/2 horsepower or so in heavy thatch such as st augustine where the non cutting edge isn't rubbing on the thatch.
Thanks for watching....
Don't like ariens over the gravely, even though the same manufacturer, I use gravely as my backup!? My main mower is the Scag, turf tiger 61, Best on the market, hands down!!
Thanks for watching. Although Ariensco owns the Gravely name, they DID NOT design the machine. I feel the same about Gravely as you do about Scag. There aren't any Scags in this area, NC. The nearest dealer is over 100 miles away.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV Worth the drive to get the Scag!!
@user-br5nx7pn6i not when it comes to servicing and such. That's why I run Gravely. There's an authorized dealer 18 miles away.
I buy ALL my original parts online and service everything myself!?
@user-br5nx7pn6i I do too after the warranty has expired.
My hustler raptor plastic around my fuel spout busted all to heck so I bought a plastic welder that basically heats up staples so you can fix the cracks back in place and save a lot of money.
Good idea. When I get the time, I'm going to use gas safe apoxy to do my repair. Thanks for watching and for the idea. I'm going to look into that, and I may end up doing that instead.
What we used to do to change is: Leave the mower on the trailer with the mower facing rearwards. Then park the mower with its forewardmost wheels stopped right at the rear edge of the trailer deck with the deck raised. Laying on the ramp, using a piece of plywood or cardboard, we always had plenty of room to change the cutting edges. It's great for when the ground's wet and also makes it a little easier to get up after!
Your blades are all junk. We used our blades about 6 hours a day. They were sharpened once a week and changed twice a season only.
Thanks for watching. The position of the mower is dependent on the angle of the gate. That's why you see me using the ramp. It increases the angle. I'm a big guy and need the extra room.
I don't know how you get away with sharpening/changing blades twice a season. I sharpen and change blades every week. Dull blades cause the tips of the grass blades to turn brown, and customers do not like that. I've been doing this for 25 years now, and my system works well.
the dixie blades need washers between to offset and make it cut right and the right height
Thanks for watching. I had another similar comment. All I did was set my deck to 3.00 inches and measure the cut edge of the blade. It was 2.50 inches. I normally cut at 2.75 inches. At that height, I just set the deck to 3.25 and it cuts perfect.
@Big South Outdoors TV it's designed with the baffle in the deck I would play with 4 washers on each and compare
@Shane Pipkin it's nowhere near the baffle and is only 1/4 inch higher than the OEM blades. I checked with dealer and they said that is within specs.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV dealers will tell you anything. it will make a difference if you try just saying I have played with it on my ferris
On the Ikon you can use a straight mulching blade with the curve sharp edges. I use the mulching blade. I believe it's a 52 inch three blade Murray .
Thank you for watching. The blade you saw in this video was the only blade available for this machine at the time and they cost $84.00 for 3 of them. That's why I went to the Oregon blade for the Dixie Chopper. It's only 1/16" shorter which makes no difference at all when cutting, and they last several sharpenings.
I can see that someone could make good money mfg the blades for these mowers. My grandfather used to weld stalite on the cutting edges to harden the blades so they would last and stay sharp longer. He had a Kubota.
Thanks for watching. With these blades, the lift edge wouldn't last long enough to justify having that done. I'd love to apply that to all blade lift edges.
I just bought a 52 inch ikon. I had the OEM deck belt snap in like 5 min. I found that no one seems to make 151.5 inch belts. And they are 100 bucks. I found that the 150 inch belt works and is 20 dollars. It has not snapped. This is my first experience with ariens and I am not impressed so far. We will see if the blade/belts are the only problems I run into.
Thanks for watching. It seems that Ariens level of quality depends on what you buy. Just as any other mower line, the more "commercial" it is, the higher the quality. That's why I'm sticking with anything Gravely from the ZTHD and up to the 600 series. Anything lower is garbage.
God Bless you Brother.
Well thank you and thank you for watching.
I can't understand a commercial mowing company wanting to mow slower just to save $18. I think you should consider charging a little more or just being able to mow more in the same time, then $20 more on blades is money well spent.
Thanks for watching. Where did you get $18.00 from? The factory blades for this mower were $84.00 for a set of three. The aftermarket blades were $37-38 dollars for three. It's been a long time, but I think that around $47.00 difference. That's a far cry from $18.00.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV From you, around 28:40 or so in this video, or so I thought.
@pontiacg445 I went to the time stamp you referred to and watched what you were referring to. The figure I gave was a guesstimate off the top of my head. The ACTUALL price for the OEM blades at the time this was filmed was $74.86. Divide that by 3 and that's $24.95 per blade. The Oregon blades for the Dixie Chopper I featured in this video were $14.57 per blade...X 3 equals $43.71. A difference of $31.15. When you're in business and every dollar counts, that's a SIGNIFICANT difference. Regardless of which it is, $18.00 or $31.00, especially when you have to buy a new set every 3 weeks, any money you can save is HUGE. I understand the confusion I caused but it wasn't my intention to create it.
More profit with cheaper light weight blades and they think everyone will be forced to by them for 10 years
BINGO!
All alloys and heat treatment are not equal and weight alone probably is not a good judge. Adding heavier blades may not fit the engineering of the drive components. The Ariens blades may be better suited for well maintained lawns. The turbulence caused by the lift in those blades would be a blade tip erosion problem where there is a lot of loose dirt and grit. But the lift would likely give you a better manicured appearance to the lawn. The moral of the story is that the blade needs to be tailored to the stuff you are mowing and the appearance that your customer is looking for. So you need to load up the right equipment for the jobs you have scheduled.
Personally I would keep the Ariens for manicured lawns for a nicer cut and the prevention of weed contamination.
Set up your trailer to make quick blade changes, sharpening and deck cleaning.
Thank you for watching. That is good information but, from experience, the Oregon blades cut far better. This has nothing to do with wear, stress or anything of the sort. This mower has the same spindles my Gravely 452 has and the same clutch. Only difference is the engine size. My first Gravely has a 23 hp Kawasaki engine with a 52 inch cut. 21.5 hp is MORE THAN ENOUGH for 42 inch cut. This is all about money. That's why they put a patent on those blades. They litterally blocked the aftermarket from being able to reproduce that blades design and sell them cheaper. The Oregon blades are $38.00 a set(3). The oem blades are $27.85 each. $27.85 × 3 equals more than double what aftermarket blades cost, $83.55 for 3 blades. FOLLOW THE MONEY.
Man look at all that clearance. I'm going to try that. Putting a ramp on the ramp. 👍
Thanks for watching. Been using this method for 24 years. I've always said if it's not broke, don't fix it.
bought an ariens edge 36" er a couple of years ago ... runs really well ... cuts really well ... I have about 3/4 acre inner city ... got the 36" so I could keep it on my enclosed back porch ... 70+ years old
Thanks for watching. I'm glad you're having success with your purchase. Unfortunately, I haven't had the same fortune. This machine, at this moment, is "out of service" for structural repair.
How do you know that the spindles can handle the heavier blades?
Thanks for watching. I got the part number from the parts manual that came with the machine and checked the load capacity of each spindle before I installed the blades. With all due respect, I've been doing this for 25 years. I know what I'm doing. The video was long enough, I didn't think it was necessary to include that too.
It's all some pompass jerk in the comment trying to be smarter than an experienced veteran (jerk go play your video games & continue taking your equipment to the shop like you always do
I have gravely mower o.m.e blade has slight curve too tip. Flat replacement blades don't cut as well when used. Also cuts 1/2 higher
Thanks for watching! I have now used the oem blades, copperhead blades made by Rotary and the Oregon bladed featured in this video. In all honesty, they all cut about the same used or not. The Oregon blades, by FAR, last the longest. Although it is true the flat blades throws the cutting height off, it is EASILY compensated for by setting the blade tips on 3 inches and measuring the actually blade height. Mine was 3/4" off. So, if I want to cut at 3.25 , I just set the deck height pin at 4.00" and I'm good to go.
Good video! The Arion is residential mower. Looking at the thickness of the metal is a good sign. The sound of the transmission from the Gravely to the Arion is alot different . Gravely is much stronger mower. Any how great video, good insight and content.
Thanks for watching. I had a craftsman z6400. The only thing lighter built on it was the stamped deck. The craftsman had many of the same components as the Ariens with 2 exceptions. The craftsmahad 2 blades and the ariens has 3 blades. They market the Ariens as a "heavy duty" residential mower. My craftsman z6400 weight more than the ariens.
That Icon series is really for residential only. Aries Apex series is there middle of the road mower for larger lots and some commercial. I find it better to use factory parts for everything, and my cuts are real nice. Good luck with all the hard work I do some on the side also.
I responded to your other comment. I find myself have to clarify myself to a lot of people that don't seem to understand that I knew it was a residential machine. I bought this machine because of that very fact. As I stared in my.other comment, I had been running a Craftsman Z6400. It was made by MTD. When I bought it, it was used and had 149 hours on it. When I sold it, it had over 600 hours on it, and the man that bought it is still using it. That is why I felt comfortable buying this Ariens. I was told by the dealer that it was a superior machine to the craftsman in every way. IT'S NOT! It's a P.O.S. I have spent a lot of money just keeping it going. As I stated, had the dealer told me, "you need something heavier and more commercial", I would've listened. They told me it would be a much better machine than what I had. THEY WERE WRONG.
Get er done!
Hey brother! I need to call you. Got some camera questions.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV I’m all ears!
Made in USA, that's one of the reasons I bought a new Gravely last summer, so far so good. I think you are right about the filler neck on the other mower. It sticks out too far and could be very easy to damage. You more than likely hit a tree branch without knowing it. Thanks for the video
Thank you for watching. My dad always said if it ain't broke....and we all know the rest of that statement. Engineers aren't happy until they complicate something. If they had left well enough ALONE, the fill cap would've gotten damaged. On previous year models, it was located on the same side but on TOP of the fender behind the seat. Whatsworse, the dealer I purchased it from told me it was not covered under warranty. The dealer I'm trading with now, told me it most certainly was covered by the warranty. THAT, to me at least is a MUCH BIGGER problem and one if the many reasons I no longer trade with them.
I'm going to put another gas tank on my troybilt on the other side the same kind of gas tank that comes with it I'm going to put one on the other side so I got two of them
Can't do that with this one unfortunately.
When a blade is dull the grass bend back and wears out the blade i cut grass for years in Florida it it is how you matain your mower in sharping the blade thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching. I change my blades weekly. I have a system where I rotate them according to date of purchase. As they move up in the stack, they get good sharpening and put on the mowers.
Ho Lee Chit ❤ had that problem also would not cut good after my first cutting.
I've talked with several that now own this mower. Like me, they HATE IT.
Well, I am sorry for the issues you have and have had. Mine must be a rare bird. I was going to rebuild the deck this winter, but I have had trouble with an engine overhaul on one of our cars and that has me wishing I had done differently. I almost traded up on the mower a couple of years ago, but decided not to do it. This Zoom 50 still has the original belts operating, heck, the battery lasted 6yrs. I did put an air ride seat on it early on, because it rides rough w/o the air ride seat. I don't recall ever having a problem with blowing stuff out of the mower deck front area.
I would have to say yes, you got a rare one. I guess it depends on which model you get. The Ikon envy isn't one of them.
Well, all in all, I'd 100% agree with you being pissed! It's bad enough forcing their customers to use proprietory blades, but if they can't even make a GOOD quality blade it's adding insult to injury!
I can understand why they're designed like that, and there're good reasons for it, but the way they're going about it will just alienate potential buyers and certainly those who've already made the purchase of the machine!
Sure, one can fabricate spacers, and use longer HT bolts, to use the blades one prefers - but one SHOULDN'T need to have to resort to that to get blades that are up to the job.
That fuel tank design is one of the most asinine designs I've seen in a looong time - it's bad enough that it's sticking out in the breeze waiting to be broken off, but it means the whole tank needs to be replaced instead of just a neck.
So, you have some excellent points there, but while it says "Made in the USA", that means assembled*, as the rest of the label clearly states it uses parts from other countries, too.
It may be mostly US sourced parts, though, to be fair.
*Other terms that may be misleading are "assembled", "packed", etc.
Not sure about the current state of affairs, but for many years Honda and Toyota had more US sourced content than any of the "Big Three", on their cars made on the US assembly lines, because they used their own US factories for their parts.
Oh, forgot, you may find this amusing - way back in the sixties, you could buy cheap plastic toys marked "Made in USA" - there was a Japanese manufacturing town that renamed itself "USA", so it was technically correct.
Thanks for watching and WOW, what a response. This situation is partly my doing. When my craftsman z6400 went down unexpectly, I had to have a small mower...FAST. I didn't have time to do proper research, I bought the first 42" cut machine I found. If I had it to do all over again, I'd run, not walk away. All I can say is...LESSON LEARNED. It is a great machine other than the issues I mentioned in this video.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV
I think we've all made a decision, or purchase, we regret later.
I call them BAD decisions - Best Available Data - it was the best call we could make on what we knew at the time.
Along the same lines, I call 'mistakes' "learning experiences" - the initial mistake is annoying, but if one can learn something from it, it can be some recompense. It's when I repeat the SAME 'learning experience' the real problem lies.
As it is, you should be able to have some spacers machined to place the cutting edges at the correct depth, and that will also allow you to have the pilot machined to the correct diameter for your favourite blades' mounting bore.
That fuel tank, though - NO POSSIBLE EXCUSE for that FUBAR design that should never have reached the drawing board/screen, let alone production.
Gosh I don’t have any of these problems with my John Deere 915B. I run 2-3 acres and change the blades before the season starts and about half way through. It holds 13 gallon and uses no more than my former tractor mowers, the Cub Cadet 1050 or the John Deere L120. I have the 60” cut on the zero turn.
Thank you for watching. This machine is not a commercial grade machine. It's more of a heavy duty residential, much like a cub cadet zero turn or a craftsman zero turn. I used to have a 2005 craftsman z6400. Other than the stamped deck, it was built much "heavier" than this mower. I maintain 6-7 acres a day. When you cut the volume of grass I do, you HAVE to keep your blades sharp. I change blades every week.
Have you thought about adding a metal deflector shield?
Never heard of one.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV You might have to fabricate one yourself.
@Rosedach are you referring to a "mulch/chute guatd"? If so, the was that deck is designed, I would have to weld on the deck. Doing so would void the warranty on the deck.
It's a relief to see a guy that ain't worried 'bout get'n a bit dirty. You did an awesome job at teaching. It's obvious you're smart and know your stuff, but you aren't condescending. You're respectful, which is a rare virtue nowadays. 👍🏻
I subbed a couple minutes in...👍🏻
Thank you for doing this for us.
WOW! I'm humbled. Thank you for watching and for those kind words. I am not the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I do my best to have my ducks in a row before filming. Thanks for the sub and WELCOME to the Big South family.
If you hard face those blades with a 7018 welding rod, you won't have to sharpen them but every couple of years. Nobody does it but me, I guess. But I ve been a mower mechanic for decades. Saves a lot of wasted time underneath the mower.
Thanks for taking the time to watch my video. That's something Worth looking into. Also something I've never heard of. The problem is, blades used every day won't last near that long. The lift edge wears through long before then. As you saw on this video, the cutting edge wasn't the issue. The lift edge was useless after only 18/19 hours of cutting. If there was a way to extend the life of the lift edge that would be AWESOME.
I would use a 7024 rod in the weak area, while it's thick enough to weld on. 7024 beads are flat, so you won't need to grind them down or anything. It will alloy with the blade metal, and should last two or three times as long. It's harder than the blade so it won't wear as much. If you choose to hard face the cutting edge, get the beads as smooth as you can, or it will take a long time grinding to get an edge back on it. I would guess two seasons then a touch up sharpen. The different metals will weigh different than the blade metal so try and get the same amount on both sides. When you go to sharpen the blade, you'll wonder if the grinder is doing anything. It won't be that easy to tell. You can see the metal is gone in the middle of the thrower. Just build it up an inch wide, make it thick. It's a harder metal. The blade might last three or four years if you do it right. It won't wear like the old one. It'll wear a little bit then you can put another pass or two on it next year. The harder metal will just polish up from the grass. They're making soft blades that wear out in the middle. They're not going to sell you blades that might last five years, or even three. I hard faced a set of blades with 9010 rod once, and it took forever to sharpen them but they stayed sharp for three years. Just my push mower. But I mowed yards back then. Yeah that whole middle about an inch wide needs built up on that blade. I would bet it'll last two years no matter how much you mow. There's probably something designed about the mowing deck that's throwing the grass all out to the edge, so it's sliding across the blade on its way out instead of going up away from the blade. I'd make a pair of hard blades out of some regular blades, and just see how long they lasted. That will tell you what you need to do to them. But yeah they don't advertise about hard facing mower blades. So what's your blade guy going to say when you don't buy any more for a couple of years? I'd love to see that picture...
Agree whole heartedly on hard surfacing the blades. I service dozens of commercial mowers and hard surface with nickel, resharpen and rebalance. Generally get three or four times the life out of them.
@@rogerray7820 this idea is intriging to me. I spoke with a metallurgist and he told me that doing so is a catch 22 situation. He said it's expensive to do and although it absolutely will extend the life of the cutting edge, it won't extend the life of the lift edge. That's how blades wear out. It's not the cutting edge that is no longer useful, it's the fact that dust, dirt and grass itself literally eat away the lift edge. Adding material before use would most certainly make the blade too heavy and a waste of money doing it after. His words, not mine....new blades are cheaper.
Could you make a video showing how to "hard surfaces a lawn mower blade"?
Airens probably won't move the filler to the rear near the engine for fire safety. Just my observation. I had a Poulan Pro tractor style mower that I purchased a new fuel tank for, then found out that the original fuel tank had a recall on it. AYP/Husqvarna wouldn't reimburse me for the fuel tank because I am not an "authorized service center". Swapping out a fuel tank, and checking for leaks is elementary work, but they don't think so.
@Thomas-ul3uy thanks for watching. Funny thing is, the filler neck had been on the operator left arm side for several years with, to my knowledge, zero issues. WEIRD!
Money is the reason
Exactly!
Great video very informative good luck with the rest of the equipment
@@wileyherring7407 Thank you for watching.
Holy crap. I wooden blade would last longer than that!! LOL
🤣🤣🤣 Yep! Ariensco is not getting good feedback on their poor design. If you watched the whole video, and I hope you did, I ran the Oregon blades for 13 hours. I sharpened them and ran them for another 9 hours. They've good for one more sharpening. They've performed well.
It has to do with the material and thickness of the blade. Some blades are harder. Example. Every honda blade lasts 10 times longer.
I have already cut blades to fit for my applications
Thanks for watching. These blades are not hardened AT ALL. There is little to no carbon in them.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV yes, I believe it. Probably like those sears blades. Junk.
Thanks for the video
@@frontlinemedia4270 you bet!
I enjoy his videos! Down to earth without being an "EXPERT"
Thank you for watching and thanks for the kind words. I'm far from an expert. The info I give is from personal experience. I'm not a mechanic, I'm just a working man that works on my own stuff as much as I can.
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I own the Ariens Zenith for 3 years and I have had no problems whatsoever never change the blades but I don't mow my grass low or wet grass either I mow 4 inches or higher.
Thanks for watching. When you mow every day, changing/sharpening blades weekly is a MUST. Otherwise, the grass blade tips turn brown. That is a sure sign the blades need sharpening. Some guys put sharp on every other day. That is kind of overkill IMHO.
Call copperhead mower blades, talk to tech service and give them the spec's of the OEM blades. They may be able to help you out. They make blades with the same offset.
Thanks for the advice but, unfortunately, with the patent, no aftermarket blades are available. The ones in this video just happen to be the same dimensions even thought they are for a Dixie Chopper.
What's the number y'all?
They should recall that tank.
@robertlam-qd1xb after speaking with ariensco, not knowing how it got damaged, they said it was most likely operator error and wouldn't offer any resolution. I love my Gravely, but this experience has left a BAAAAAD taste in my mouth for Ariens as a company. It will be years down the road but when that day comes, I'm SERIOUSLY considering going to another brand mower.
@@MrLouChris number for what, Ariensco?
Brian, the blades I use on my Zoom 50, same as yours shape wise. I order blades off of Ebay, aftermarket blades, You can order 1-10 sets or more at a time and save $$$. They are made in the USA and I get up to 3 cuts on blade usage, weather new or sharpened.
Thanks for letting me know. I will have to check to see if they have them for a 42" cut. The blades for this machine have a patent on them, and as of the filming of this video, there were no blades available in the aftermarket world. That's why I went with the flat oregon blades featured in this video. I called Rotary, Stens and USA blades. None of them had blades the same shape and length as the OEM bldes.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV I double-checked and yes they are listed on Ebay, they are priced higher than last year, but they are listed.
Get er done!. That tank was an easy fix.
It was. It was also unnecessary. Poor design was to blame for that. I had a Craftsman Z6400 and its fill cap was located where I stated in this video this one should've been located. Last years Ariens Ikon model was designed completely different. Thanks for watching. If you have subscribed, please do so. It would help the channel and I'd really appreciate it....very much.
Great video i have been landscaping for 37 years Just bought a new Wright stander 48 not happy the gas tank should always be on the the right side of the mower just a dumb design . As a landscaper you know we all try to get as close to the edge of every thing we cut less time on the trimmer
YES!! Thank you for watching. I put a trimmer rack on my Gravely 452 to save trimming time.
Had mine for two weeks and sold at a $500 loss. No bueno......went out and got a bobcat 48 sit down
I'm looking at a Bobcat 42" for the same reason.
Look at encore before hand! It's the best mower I've ever used! And ice tried all of them! I'm not a dealer! I'm a owner operator lawncare service! You'll love the price and how much heavier duty they are!!! Plz don't just dismiss it cuz you don't know about them ( if you do cool) but wow! 52 inch is small ass I can go!
Good video, had a new ariens a few years ago, got rid of it and will never buy an ariens again, hope you have better luck than i did!😊
Thanks for watching. You and me both.
I love you man!!! I operate a Yazoo 61" Master Mower retired from Chicago Park District that is wildly over designed from 1998. Twin cylinder TJD wisconsin engine (yes I had to rebuild it once). The trans is a Rockford that upon rebuild (one time) resulted in clutch plates that wore less than 0.001". I'm a retired engineer & machinist, and that machine is built like a tank. My blades are offset, and are close to 1/2" thick. I sharpen every 2 years. Of course, its only cutting 5 acres per week, but I shave the earth every other week .... cutting at the street. I had to rebuild the deck once ... I had my mower parked outside for years. Upon rebuild, I made it bullet proof. My blades are keyed to the spindle. I think the original designer was a genius. I made it better. It's noisy, so I added another muffler so it looks like a "chopper". Yes, I'm crazy but I need quiet so I can listen to music while I cut. I'm not ready for something new while I operate the oldest lawn mower in my county. I love your channel, keep posting.
Thanks for watching. I appreciate your support.
I wish you was my neighbor. Seriously. We need more good people like you. You have made this video and it has nothing to do with me, yet i continued to watch. Just wanted to hang out with ya. If that makes sense. Wish you well brother. Keep up the good info. God speed!
WOW! What a nice compliment. I would count it an honor to hang out. Are you close to NC?
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV middle ga
Thanks for reporting and the trouble you went through to make this video, Brian. Do you still use the OEM tires you got on that "96 F-150? or the oil or brake shoes? Just get the heaviest ,hardest, and thickest 14 in. blades (preferably Oregon ) with 5/8 in hole that you need, and after a week or two, order another set and just switch them out every two or three weeks after you take a file or flap wheel to the sharp edges and bottoms. I get the 42" restriction on the width of you machine and the huge contrast in quality after that Craftsman. I use a floor jack and a couple of jack-stands (Harbor Freight) to support and change the blades on my 600 lb. 54 " BadBoy. That fuel tank filler tube De-laminating is an Ariens design flaw.and probably should be recalled by the National Highway Traffic Safety Board (NHTSA) or equivalent in your state ; just a few phone calla and the pictures from your UA-cam video ,and tell Ariens that you're thinking of running those same pictures to your lawyer, too. Fuel leaks are BIG Deals. Wishing You well, Brian .
WOW! Thanks for watching and for that GREAT response. It was full of great info. Although I still have Ole Gertrude, she's retired. We're in the process of going through her and getting her road worthy for Nate to use as his daily driver. I'll look into the fuel tank safety issue. In all honesty, I never considered or even thought about reporting it. Food for thought.
I don't own any of the machines discussed but you kept my attention the whole way through. Earned a like
Thank you for watching and for the kind words. Thanks for the like as well.
I just guessing that you probably hit a tree branch that was sticking out just far enough to hit the tank because you would have felt it had it stuck the tire and tank. What a bummer. I have a 48 Encore Edge (budget commercial $5900) and love the dual tanks 9gal.
Best of luck and be careful. ✌️✌️✌️✌️
Thanks friend. You do the same and thanks for stopping by.
I have the upgraded one, get it! It's worth it! The FX engine is a beast and only uses 1 gal per 2 acres of hilly land!!! Love the 4500 hydros! Did you find Gator blades for it?
Putting a thin weld beed,, on the ends of the original blades may resolve/ help the splitting blade pitch issues...... i used to wax the inner decks and i run walk behinds with sulkeys for the gate issues, hydro lesco that is
Thanks for watching! Good thought but As long as there are alternative blades I'm not spending time trying to weld, grind and balance blades. The Oregon blades I featured in this video work very well. Time is money and as long as I can get them at a reasonable price, I'll stick with them.
Must be 19 hrs in a sand pit. No way. 47 year mechanic here.
24 years in lawn care for me. Sand? Some but not much. Most of my accounts are borderline muddy. Look at the difference between the oe and Oregon blades. I got 3 sharpening out of the Oregon blades. As you saw, 18/19 hours and the oe blades were shot.
I spent 20 years as a fleet mechanic with as many as 20 mowers running all day in very dry and muddy condition. Remember, it's all grit. Now some blades may be softer than others and not all mowers have the same blade speed.
@henrysmith8012 thanks for watching. Exactly! The blades for this machine are NOT hardened. I found that out AFTER filming this video. I thought it might be a defective set of blades so, I bought another set. Turns out they WERE NOT defective. We cut in even wetter conditions and I got the same result. The long and short of it, the OEM blades are JUNK.
You are exactly right about the blades being very soft. If you cut a whole day long . You have to sharpen the blades. And the next day the same. Then you have to get new blades. And I live in the mountains of N.C. But I love the engine and power . I have Ikon XD 52
I have a Ariens Ikon 52 inch love the way it mows nice machine only problem my deck belt broke at 20.4 hours
Thanks for watching. Not all Ariens machines are lemons. They changed the design on the envy 42" cut in 2023. The 2022 models was completely different. I'm glad you've had success with your choice. Best of luck in the future.
LOLOL, when you showed US the tag that showed where the mower was built, it made me chuckle. The mower is made in the US with out-sourced parts...LOL
Thanks for watching.
ua-cam.com/video/PPCaqCRg_vI/v-deo.htmlsi=y1gyjMU47kKnEH52
The “Out-Sourced” parts is the engine and tires. Everything else is built in house.
@@monroefive-o40
ua-cam.com/video/PPCaqCRg_vI/v-deo.html
Unbelievable! Man, you are the truth. Thanks.
Thank you for watching! I appreciate the kind words. If you haven't already, please subscribe. I love to have you as part of the Big South gang.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV Done.
Don’t give up on the XD Brian. I think it will still serve you well
Thanks for watching!
The lawn mower I got carries 103 inch belt and it's $60 102 inch belt is 10.00 I cut the end of the tensioner off and redrill the hole belt works great
Thanks for watching!
That tank was an easy fix
Thanks for watching. Yes, it was easy, but EXPENSIVE. If they had loated the fill neck on the back where I described in the video, it wouldn't have been an issue. I wish they would involve end users in the designing process of these machines. Wishful thinking I know.
right on man. good points. i ride an x mark lazer z w 60" . blades are 50$ a setand i getabout 3 sharpenings before they are toast. buttheyare thick. i sharpen with a belt sander and an angle jig.
Thanks for watching. Have you even tried a 60 grit flap disc on an angle grinder. Oh baby, that's the bomb diggity for sharpening blades.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV yep .thats how i used to do it. i made the angle jig from old car parts. it keeps blade at correct angle and i remove less metal to achieve a nice uniform edge. i can shave with these . keep blades cool by dipping in water bucket when too hot to hold. keeps the temper in the blade. actually can get 4 sharpenings per blade and each sharpening goes 18 hrs on avg. i mow high thick pastures not nice lawns. except my lawn. 🤣.i also break rules by throwing grass to the inside and mulch itas i move it to a center location. clean cut and no grass clumps . my pastures look like a golf course for a week. less bugs and healthy grass . throwing to center alao removes most weed seed and keeps weeds away without chems.
@@KevinFreist I stripe grass. Watch some of my lawn are videos. After cutting, I go back over it and redisperse the clippings. Either way works well but I don't cut hrass lower than 3 inches. In this NC heat, if it's cut much lower, it will cook it. When I sharpen blades I usually use the blade close to the center, the most unused portion of the cutting edge as a guide to get the 30° angle. I've thought about getting an all American blade sharpening system just haven't pulled the trigger on that yet.
If I'm Ariens I'm sending you a free gas tank and a check for your hard work at testing and doing the work of the failed engineering dept.
Thank you for watching and.....THANK YOU! I found out at the dealership I am dealing with now that the gas tank WAS covered by the warranty. The dealership I bought this machine from, the one I left after 22 years of trading with them, it was NOT covered under the warranty. Another reason I am no longer trading with that dealer.
Can you please give us a follow up a yr or later to see if the spindles are cheap and that's why they use such a thin blade.
@jesusbolivar9178 thanks for watching. I am working on just such a video. It's going to the editing room in the next week or so.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTVwow , did dealer pocket yer cash, the Love of money, the root of all evil. Lord Bless.
I have old toro im just watching anyways i scrape the bottom of my decks almost every time im done mowing any thick grass my blades need redone to
Thanks for watching. I wish I had time to scrape decks. I usually lift the deck, stick it in a pool of standing water, turn the blades on and lift the deck up and down. It doesn't get every morsel of grass off but it does that the majority of it.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV yeah that'll get some of it off
You are cutting sand, that's why.
There are a few of my clients that have sand but most aren't. I've spoke to two others that had the same issue I had, premature blade wear. The Oregon blades I installed on this video are still on the ariens mower as of today, 6-7-23. They have 12 hours on them and other than the missing paint, the look almost new. The patented ariens blades are obviously made of very soft material.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV Have you found the gravely blades to be better?
@@alzuu1 no. The best cutting, longest lasting blade for the gravely is Copperhead blades by Rotary. They last FOREVER.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV I did some research and it seems like the Ikon, Gravely ZT-X, ZT-XL don't have after market blades like you said. Things like the Gravely HD and up and the Ariens Apex(which is the step up from the Ikon) do. The blades on those are about .2 inches thick while the one that's for the Ikon and the gravely ZT-Xs is only .16 inches so I'm guessing the .20 inch blades are more high quality.
@@alzuu1 the blades for this Ikon are only 14.5 inches long.
As a gardener for 20+ years i can say this base on years of experience, bought a route with a mix of yards some nice yards and some with nothing bit patches of weeds and weedy grass, I was replaceing blades very often all looking like the ones you show in this video, for a reason not worh mentioning i separeate the account with nice lawns, and after just cutting this nice yards i dont have to reaplace the blades for months, so if you make dust when moving for sure you are removing life on the blades
Thanks for watching. How do you do that? I don't have time to stop and change blades. All blades, regardless of ground quality stir dust, much like a helicopter blade. Only difference between the two is a mower creates suction where a helicopter blows downwards. The end result is the same, DUST. No metal blade is going to last any length of time and give a quality cut traveling at those speeds that close to the source of the damage.
A few things to look for when buying a zero turn. Depth and thickness of the deck, standard blades that are not bent stupid and gauge wheels in the 4 corners and in the middle of the deck. You will find that John deere makes a great commercial mower even though I am a kubota guy. I personally have a kubota commercial mower and I absolutely love it. The city runs Deere and I like that even better. Magmow blades fit on both. Awesome blades.
Thanks for watching. No offense intended but I wouldn't have a JD if it was given to me. Stamped decks don't last. My Gravely has almost 1200 hours on it and the deck still looks brand new. I've seen the magmow blades. Never used them though. I would have to check to see if they would be cost effective. If they're like tweels, most likely not.
I have a Dixie Chopper and it is 20 years old. On second set of blades and the blades are perfect. The weight of the blades shouldn't affect the mower deck.
Thanks for watching. With all due respct to you, and I want to reinterate, this is nothing personal, if you've only used 2 sets of blades in 20 years, you're either not using it much, not cutting a lot of acreage or you're abusing it. Even a full residential mower should have new blades at the first hint of lawn growth in spring. Not doing so puts unnecessary stress on the belts, spindles, bearings and if it's an electric pto, it overheats and shortens the clutch's life. When blades get that dull, you're no longer cutting grass, you're beating it to death.
Thinking about buying that same mower, this video helped me decide to go on and get it. New subscriber also!
Thank you for subscribing and for watching. BEFORE you pull the trigger on that purchase, may I suggest you watch this video FIRST....
ua-cam.com/video/or-QxPETcjg/v-deo.htmlsi=taZaxv0ZKxkaqryJ
Ariens is like a cheap Gravely. Have a two year old Gravely zt48. Very fast mower. Cut 4 acres. Sharpened once. Heated the edges cherry red and quenched in water. Also have a 1996 Sears (by AYP). Has 12 x 12 x 26 tractor lug tires. Still use it for cutting saplings, brush and ditches when wet and the steep banks around my shop and pulling the Gravely out when it gets stuck. Its blades are .200 thick spring leaf material.
Two issues with the Gravely. Brake cable broke and it did not come with Donaldson air filter. Has one now.
Thanks for watching. My pro turn 300 and 452 doesn't have a brake cable. This ariens does. The Gravely's brake system is contained inside the hydrogear pumps. I don't run factory blades. Too expensive. I run the HD copperhead blades by Rotary. The last FOREVER.
If I were to guess where you hit gas cap and side panel is backing off trailer. I back my wife"s ZTR mower into its storage area each week so she does not have to back up and I can tell you, they are hard to back up straight. See if your trailer railing has a matching scrape. My Up Nort accent loves your Dixie accent.
Thanks for watching. I have tested that theory myself and in order for that to have happened with the trailer, it would've had to happen driving up onto it because I don't back my machines on the trailer. To tell you the truth, I have run a thousand times and for the life of me, I don't know how or where it happened. Thanks for the compliment on my accent and again, thanks for watching.
I'm looking at a Gravely ZTX 42. The serial number is 918008. Do those also use the same proprietary blades as the Ariens?
Thanks for watching. 918 model number, RUN! That is the EXACT SAME TURD as this Ariens, just has red paint. STAY AWAY from it. If you're looking at the Gravely line, look at the proturn Z or ZX. They are the entry level commercial but many buy them for personal use. They're only a grand or so more but are FAR better built than the "RED" Ariens.
I bought an Ariens Ikon XD 52 with the Kawasaki. I've had it for almost 4 years and have had zero problems with. I even used it commercially for a year, Gator Blades and all... It runs/cuts great. I agree that you should be able to use aftermarket blades. Sorry to hear you haven't had a great experience.
Thanks for watching. They redesigned the envy and changed a lot of things and NOT for the better. I'm glad to hear you've had good success. I wish I could say the same.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTVI'm not going to lie. I'm a little jealous of the lights on yours! 😂 😂 Not sure when I would use them but I like them. I've looked at adding lights to mine just for fun. 👍👍
Good video. Last year, I waited almost 2 months for blades for a customers lawn mower. Couldn't find them anywhere. Thanks
Thank you for watching. That's one of the reasons I started using Oregon blades. They work just as good even though they are completely different, plus they're available everywhere.
Aaron's built my Craftsman 20 years ago had the same shape blades they were $90 to replace. The reason for the shape of the blade at the time was so you could add a flat one on the bottom so it could be a mulching deck. That way both cutting edges were at the same level
Ariens never made Craftsman. Craftsman, like many other box store mowers, were made by either MTD or AYP.
Sears sent me to home Depot to buy Aaron's parts to fix it
Does the heavier blades put more stress on the spindles ?
Thanks for watching. Absolutely not. I made sure of that before I installed them. The dealer told me they are capable of handling up to a 52 inch cut blade length.