Seems like a nice unit. Figured the price would come down since it’s quite a few years old now. Honestly the zoom feature is better than snap on atleast you can zoom in not out like snap on
This unit has been at this price point for a long time. I don't think it will be going down. I know they are working on a firmware update as I type along with a software package.
Oh yes, I'm very familiar with the Snap-on scope and how they zoom. You have to capture with a small time base and then zoom out. Personally I think it sucks and the Snap-on scope lacks features and functionality. For Automotive if I'm not using my uScope I'm grabbing my Pico 4425a for when I need multiple channels and added features.
Take a look at the reference file that shows up at 28 seconds mark. Voltage starts out under the 20V line so most likely around 13 volts or so without using the cursors for a more accurate measurement. When the coil is grounded that voltage pull down to zero to saturate the coil windings. When the plug fires the ground is removed and there is a large voltage spike. This is about 120V. Then while the plug is arcing (called the spark line) the voltage holds for a short time (1.6 - 1.9 ms) for around 25 - 35 volts before it drops back down to 13 - 14 volts. Of course these voltages will vary a bit. It's the pattern you need to look at. Look at the switching on and off. Is it a clean square waveform with sharp corners. Is the voltage spike high enough and is the spark line long enough and leveled out. Are there a few oscillations after the spark line drops back to source voltage.
@@DrivelineMaster thanks for reply, can I test the primary voltage of an ac CDI scooter like that, cause I don't have an oscilloscope, or with a test light cause I have a severe misfire on my scooter
I'm not very familiar with scooters or CDI systems except that they are a form of electronic ignition for scooters and they have a coil with a primary and secondary. You can do some stuff with a digital millimeter (DMM) but you can't get to the details like you can with a scope. The voltage going into the coil should be battery voltage. A DMM with a duty cycle feature can be placed on the primary negative coil terminal to measure coil saturation time. Something we use to call dwell time. The coil should have primary and secondary ohm values that you can also do with a DMM and you can check power and grounds at the CDI box as long as you have the wiring diagram.
Negative lead on ground or battery negative. Red or positive lead on + positive side of the ignition coil and turn on the key. You should read battery voltage. if so, move the read lead to the negative side of the coil primary and place the meter to read duty cycle and crank the engine over. You should read something. I can't be certain but I would guess 25% - 35% or it could be the inverse of 65% to 75%.
Seems like a nice unit. Figured the price would come down since it’s quite a few years old now. Honestly the zoom feature is better than snap on atleast you can zoom in not out like snap on
This unit has been at this price point for a long time. I don't think it will be going down. I know they are working on a firmware update as I type along with a software package.
If you ever used a snap on scope you’d understand the annoyance with there zooming functions
Oh yes, I'm very familiar with the Snap-on scope and how they zoom. You have to capture with a small time base and then zoom out. Personally I think it sucks and the Snap-on scope lacks features and functionality. For Automotive if I'm not using my uScope I'm grabbing my Pico 4425a for when I need multiple channels and added features.
thnx
Can you buy these scopes in England, anyone know?
I will check with AES Wave.
What should be primary voltage when it is running
Take a look at the reference file that shows up at 28 seconds mark. Voltage starts out under the 20V line so most likely around 13 volts or so without using the cursors for a more accurate measurement. When the coil is grounded that voltage pull down to zero to saturate the coil windings. When the plug fires the ground is removed and there is a large voltage spike. This is about 120V. Then while the plug is arcing (called the spark line) the voltage holds for a short time (1.6 - 1.9 ms) for around 25 - 35 volts before it drops back down to 13 - 14 volts. Of course these voltages will vary a bit. It's the pattern you need to look at. Look at the switching on and off. Is it a clean square waveform with sharp corners. Is the voltage spike high enough and is the spark line long enough and leveled out. Are there a few oscillations after the spark line drops back to source voltage.
@@DrivelineMaster thanks for reply, can I test the primary voltage of an ac CDI scooter like that, cause I don't have an oscilloscope, or with a test light cause I have a severe misfire on my scooter
I'm not very familiar with scooters or CDI systems except that they are a form of electronic ignition for scooters and they have a coil with a primary and secondary. You can do some stuff with a digital millimeter (DMM) but you can't get to the details like you can with a scope. The voltage going into the coil should be battery voltage. A DMM with a duty cycle feature can be placed on the primary negative coil terminal to measure coil saturation time. Something we use to call dwell time. The coil should have primary and secondary ohm values that you can also do with a DMM and you can check power and grounds at the CDI box as long as you have the wiring diagram.
@@DrivelineMaster you mean put test leads in series or across the poles of the primary, thanks for reply
Negative lead on ground or battery negative. Red or positive lead on + positive side of the ignition coil and turn on the key. You should read battery voltage. if so, move the read lead to the negative side of the coil primary and place the meter to read duty cycle and crank the engine over. You should read something. I can't be certain but I would guess 25% - 35% or it could be the inverse of 65% to 75%.
😳 Promo sm