Building a Master Mode Button for Star Citizen
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- This is just a fun little project I wanted to build: a master mode button to be used with Star Citizen, with my Star Citizen panels / setup.
The switch I used: www.amazon.de/...
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some tricks for improving diffusion would be to also glue a layer of aluminium foil, or that plastic foil they make lifesaver blankets out of, onto the under side. so any light that shines out the back of the board gets bounced back up and out the front rather than needlessly illuminating behind the panel.
also i found 0.5mm white polypropylene sheets are great for diffusion. So maybe incorporating laser cut section of that for the top surface, with the 3d printed part designed with an identical indentation, at the right thickness, to stick down two layer of the sheet. you can also get it in black, so a layer of black on top with text laser cut out, then a layer of white solid behind it. and you get a great top layer finish to what is a printed part. no need for sanding or painting. also maybe design the panels so any led sections that you want to be diffused are a separate section. so you can print the panel in black, and then a section in clear or white that the leds go into, and make them slot together. so you dont have to worry about the infill percentage of the whole panel in order to get the desired amount of diffusion.
Thanks, really interesting ideas to try out!
I have an Ender3 v2, and the two upgrades that I've done that I highly recommend are: 1. BLtouch (or something to do auto bed leveling), and 2. a PEI bed surface on a magnetic sheet. I don't think I could live without either upgrade at this point 🙂
Thanks. The least auto bed leveling sounds like a serious QoL upgrade too. :D At least I managed to get my printer working again.
For the 3d print stuff you can use isopropyl alcohol as a rub to smooth the surface for PLA prints. That's assuming your not using another material to fill gaps in the print. Its a useful alternative to sanding. Also for the bed adhesion, assuming bed is correctly leveled. Increasing the bed heat can help. I print with a bed of 65-70, also make sure there are no drafts blow over the printer bed. A small breeze can be enough to cool the plastic.
Thanks, I'll check that one out! Interesting to see the difference between IPA treatment and just sanding.
Turn on the brim option in the slicer and set it to a 10 to 15mm. That should pretty much keep the edges of the part from lifting up from the print bed.
Thanks, I'll check that one out.
I dunno man i think it looked awesome when it was installed in the cockpit! Really nice build and video :D
Thanks a lot!
Love the button! Just ordered one as well. Have you considered using that button a PANIC button for chaff/flares (noise/decoys)? I think you could make a cool button on the left side to slap when you have a missile lock
Yeah, that sounds like a good use for it!
You seem pretty handy with the tools you have. I might suggest looking into a voron 3d printer build. All of the plans are free and you get to decide for yourself where you want to cut corners so you can get the performance you want. I built a 2.4 (at custom 500x500x500 mm size) because I'm a crazy masochistic mad scientist.
That would be interesting project. Biggest question probably would be time available for building anything extra.
gotta be one of the best setups on youtube
Thanks!
another great project, another great video! thx for sharing your fails, and thx for sharing, that you just need to start, projekt s don´t need to be berfect at the first time :-)
had a lot of fun watching and I learned a lot 🙂
can you tell me which laser you are using?
have you thougt about using adressable rgb leds? there are stripes and rings. I´m starting with that and arduino right now and you can do crazy stuff
Thanks!
I'm using something from Neje. Probably not even close to being a good one, just picked it up cheap 2nd hand and it has been adequate.
Haven't tried RGB LEDs myself. In the long term, I need so many of those for panel backgrounds that I'll probably stick to green.
First off awesome work everything looks great. But could you show how you wired the green halo buttons to the leo bodnar card, did you use a 5 pin relay. I have 12v green led switches but and having trouble wiring to the relays and leo bodnar card.
Thanks!
The LEDs are not wired to Leo Bodnar, but to a separate 12V circuit. Probably any 12V power source should be OK but I'm using a PC PSU with a breakout board. Here's more about that: ua-cam.com/video/bnanaUbp3rI/v-deo.html
loosen your filament feeder it may be grinding the filament also nozzle may need cleaning
I've been just printing for two years no, without much maintenance. Probably start with proper nozzle cleaning. :D
it is cool!
Push it real good 😁
But can it activate the self destruct? Or do you still have to enter zero zero destruct zero?
viper printer is cheap and plug and play