i honestly appreciate people posting info for the masses, BUT.. an AC system charge is measured in pounds, not a walmart pressure gauge. It's best to know exactly how much refrigerant the system should have because that's the weight it's designed to run most efficiently. You can guesstimate the level of charge (that's why there's a range on those can gauges), but you should know at what pressure the low side should be at a given ambient air temperature and additionally, you should really have a high-side gauge attached as well to help determine if you have a blocked orifice tube, a bad expansion valve (i don't know yet which one these have, because i haven't read enough about them) or a bad compressor. Low on charge? then you have a leak, no two ways about it. Sucking down to 15 psi? Well that's low on my F250 but is it on a tripac? Overcharging an AC system will cause it to blow warm air as well, so adding refrigerant to a plugged system or one with a bad xpansion valve won't do any good. Asking someone at Thermoking or a tech at a dealership should get you some solid info to work with. No they won't fix it for free, but more often than not they'll at least give you some basics to work with.
While I appreciate the critique, I also recommend you do not replicate what I did. I ended up blowing out the internal seal on that compressor either due to overcharging the system, using a refrigerant with a leak stop additive, or both.
@@TruckingThemSoftlyLol, just what I said. Sorry that it was a bit late. Next time don't invert the can. No liquid refrigerant should enter the compressor. Liquid charge can only be done on a high side.
As far as I know - low side or the suction side of a compressor, where you connected your can can only be charged with vapor refrigerant. Do not invert the can. If liquid refrigerant from inverted can get into compressor - it can damage it since the liquid can not compress. Also make sure to purge air from the hoses when connecting them to the system as not to contaminate it.
My apu produced cold air then I had a pm service done. Now it does not blow cold air. I have put more money in this apu then its worth. Thermo king charges a arm and a leg for service and many times have to take it back in for service to repair what the previous technician did. Some people have good luck with thermo king but mine has been a money pit...
At what point do you top off the PAG compressor oil? Is there a better way to know that it has the right amount of PAG oil, other than emptying the system and filling it with 8 fl oz of PAG?
I have a weak cold blow, and I decided to add a little freon to the system, I did everything as in the video, and now my clutch turns on for 10 seconds and turns off, so 2 times, then it gives an error with a yellow triangle, and the cold stopped blowing altogether, and on geage it now shows on the red line, as if there is a lot of freon in the system, what do you advise me to do? lower the freon pressure a bit? then it’s not clear why earlier it was weakly blowing cold
I would actually recommend rolling through a Thermoking shop and having them look at it. You might have a wonky sensor, you might be overcharged, you might still be undercharged. I actually overcharged my system not long after I made this video and ended up blowing out the seal on my compressor. Sometimes us youtube mechanics get it wrong and the repair gets more complicated and expensive after.
You probably over charged it, See if you can check the code with a computer to the USB....... Or hookup just the cable without a refigerant can to it and when the AC kicks on see if it reads up to30-40 lbs then kicks itself off... If so restard AC and when it kicks on hold that line to let out some refigerant.... repeat till it stays running..... Ive overcharged mine before
@@bernabebanks7854 I don't know! I don't have a computer for check error! Right now I have a now new problem, yellow triangle,and fan starting,and after 4 seconds stops,fan is outside,which is at the back of the cab cooling radiator which,so he tries to start 4 times, but after 4 seconds it turns off, and the cold does not come, after 4 starts the hairdryer turns off, which blows cold from below in the cabin, and a yellow triangle lights up on the panel, what kind of nonsense is with this Apu I always don’t understand
It did, until my compressor failed a couple weeks later. Another responder to this video pointed out that using refrigerant with a lubricant in it will cause problems, but once I got my APU into a shop I discovered that I had more issues with my AC system than I had originally thought.
Let me guess your air conditioning quit working something wrong with your compressor it's what they told you because Your compressor would not initiate the reason is that you put a coolant would stop leak in your Try pack evolution just just a heads up it's gonna cost you a lot of money to get it repaired because you because you used a leak sealer that it was not designed for designed for trucks or for diesel motors and jamotors and their filters used in the cooling systems I don't know how many times I have to tell driver to stop putting leak sailor inside of your cooling system you will burn up your air conditioning very fast by doing this usually you're a pro usually your depressor a lot of times it will plug up your filter which will mean the coolant go ahead It's not actually moving to your depressor which causes your compressor not to initiate call to initiate causes you to Blow a belt Anyway it's just a heads up I figured I let you know if you have your unit still running you Drain the coolant out and use a coolant that has no leak sailor in it grandma 134 a refrigerator refrigerant
Cost isn't a problem. The real problem is the inconvenience of finding someone professional, excessive waiting and down time and not getting gouged/ripped off.
Good God he could talk the balls off a brass moose...😏
Boy, you got that right?
Are you charging ac or planting land mines ?
i honestly appreciate people posting info for the masses, BUT.. an AC system charge is measured in pounds, not a walmart pressure gauge. It's best to know exactly how much refrigerant the system should have because that's the weight it's designed to run most efficiently. You can guesstimate the level of charge (that's why there's a range on those can gauges), but you should know at what pressure the low side should be at a given ambient air temperature and additionally, you should really have a high-side gauge attached as well to help determine if you have a blocked orifice tube, a bad expansion valve (i don't know yet which one these have, because i haven't read enough about them) or a bad compressor. Low on charge? then you have a leak, no two ways about it. Sucking down to 15 psi? Well that's low on my F250 but is it on a tripac? Overcharging an AC system will cause it to blow warm air as well, so adding refrigerant to a plugged system or one with a bad xpansion valve won't do any good. Asking someone at Thermoking or a tech at a dealership should get you some solid info to work with. No they won't fix it for free, but more often than not they'll at least give you some basics to work with.
Thank you for producing and sharing this information. It has been extremely helpful to me.
Little bit dramatic. I don't think anyone has ever been injured by a freon can exploding.
I believe there it a purge valve (there is on my truck A/C anyway) you can press it down. That way you can know it’s empty and add the max amount.
Been here 10 minutes. If you know you know 😂
Thanks for posting. You talk too much. Just get to the point.
While I appreciate the critique, I also recommend you do not replicate what I did. I ended up blowing out the internal seal on that compressor either due to overcharging the system, using a refrigerant with a leak stop additive, or both.
@@TruckingThemSoftlyLol, just what I said. Sorry that it was a bit late. Next time don't invert the can. No liquid refrigerant should enter the compressor. Liquid charge can only be done on a high side.
Amen
Good info
As far as I know - low side or the suction side of a compressor, where you connected your can can only be charged with vapor refrigerant. Do not invert the can. If liquid refrigerant from inverted can get into compressor - it can damage it since the liquid can not compress. Also make sure to purge air from the hoses when connecting them to the system as not to contaminate it.
How do you purge the air from the hoses?
@@FirstnameLastname-wl9jx Open the valve on a can before attaching the hose. When you see refrigerant come out - put the hose on.
Hey how many liters of oil to change apu evolution
My apu produced cold air then I had a pm service done. Now it does not blow cold air. I have put more money in this apu then its worth. Thermo king charges a arm and a leg for service and many times have to take it back in for service to repair what the previous technician did. Some people have good luck with thermo king but mine has been a money pit...
Same here. I think thermo king sabotaged me!!!
Same here. Spend 3 thousand dollar in 2 months
Mine has 2 ports by the radiator fan but they are both the larger size that the one on the can doesn't work with 😣
TK specifies an exact weight of R134. You don't measure it by pressure.
Good thing it worked for you
My coolant fan won’t cut on and engine overheats where is the fuse located for the fan please
At what point do you top off the PAG compressor oil? Is there a better way to know that it has the right amount of PAG oil, other than emptying the system and filling it with 8 fl oz of PAG?
I have a weak cold blow, and I decided to add a little freon to the system, I did everything as in the video, and now my clutch turns on for 10 seconds and turns off, so 2 times, then it gives an error with a yellow triangle, and the cold stopped blowing altogether, and on geage it now shows on the red line, as if there is a lot of freon in the system, what do you advise me to do? lower the freon pressure a bit? then it’s not clear why earlier it was weakly blowing cold
I would actually recommend rolling through a Thermoking shop and having them look at it. You might have a wonky sensor, you might be overcharged, you might still be undercharged. I actually overcharged my system not long after I made this video and ended up blowing out the seal on my compressor. Sometimes us youtube mechanics get it wrong and the repair gets more complicated and expensive after.
@@TruckingThemSoftly ))
You probably over charged it, See if you can check the code with a computer to the USB....... Or hookup just the cable without a refigerant can to it and when the AC kicks on see if it reads up to30-40 lbs then kicks itself off... If so restard AC and when it kicks on hold that line to let out some refigerant.... repeat till it stays running..... Ive overcharged mine before
What time of computer for the apu codes and were to plug it
@@bernabebanks7854 I don't know! I don't have a computer for check error! Right now I have a now new problem, yellow triangle,and fan starting,and after 4 seconds stops,fan is outside,which is at the back of the cab cooling radiator which,so he tries to start 4 times, but after 4 seconds it turns off, and the cold does not come, after 4 starts the hairdryer turns off, which blows cold from below in the cabin, and a yellow triangle lights up on the panel, what kind of nonsense is with this Apu I always don’t understand
Did it work after you added it?
It did, until my compressor failed a couple weeks later. Another responder to this video pointed out that using refrigerant with a lubricant in it will cause problems, but once I got my APU into a shop I discovered that I had more issues with my AC system than I had originally thought.
metals too much
You talk wayyyyyyyy too much. Good video, but golly, if I didn't really need to see the work done I would've turned somewhere else. OMG !!!!!
Let me guess your air conditioning quit working something wrong with your compressor it's what they told you because Your compressor would not initiate the reason is that you put a coolant would stop leak in your Try pack evolution just just a heads up it's gonna cost you a lot of money to get it repaired because you because you used a leak sealer that it was not designed for designed for trucks or for diesel motors and jamotors and their filters used in the cooling systems I don't know how many times I have to tell driver to stop putting leak sailor inside of your cooling system you will burn up your air conditioning very fast by doing this usually you're a pro usually your depressor a lot of times it will plug up your filter which will mean the coolant go ahead It's not actually moving to your depressor which causes your compressor not to initiate call to initiate causes you to Blow a belt Anyway it's just a heads up I figured I let you know if you have your unit still running you Drain the coolant out and use a coolant that has no leak sailor in it grandma 134 a refrigerator refrigerant
So... You skipped English class but you're a pro at AC repair....
By the way... It's on an APU not his engine.
Maaan, this guy before can cause anybody an aneurysm 😂😂😂. What a f. dumb explanation on all accounts!!!
Damn man you talk too much
Stop being cheap ,& let a professional do it
Cost isn't a problem. The real problem is the inconvenience of finding someone professional, excessive waiting and down time and not getting gouged/ripped off.
Also it's not a easy task to find a professional that do it right, just because hast a title of something not always mean the job is done correctly
and on top of what these guys said, they rip you off
Easily a $200+ bill plus sitting around the shop all day