Part 2 of 2 - Chevy Cruze - Bad Head Gasket - Installation and reassembly - How To Guide!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- Today I will be installing a new head gasket and reinstalling the cylinder head on this 2014 Chevy Cruze with the 1.4 Liter Turbocharged 4 Cylinder. This can serve as a complete guide, as I will show you every step of the way.
Important - before you re-install your cylinder head, have it hydrotested. This particular vehicle was burning coolant and all signs pointed to the head gasket. In the end, the cylinder head itself was cracked on the exhaust side of cylinder 1 which was causing the issue.
If you feel that I earned it, I'd greatly appreciate a thumbs up! Also, please consider subscribing!
Link to the timing tool:
www.amazon.com...
Thank you so much for watching!
Now for the fine print:
Disclaimer - this video is for entertainment and informational purposes only. Do not attempt. Attempts to recreate, reproduce, or replicate anything seen in this video is done at your own risk. As with any product, it should only be serviced by the manufacturer or a licensed professional. Tampering with your product may void your warranty. Video owner shall not be held responsible if you void your warranty. The video owner will not be liable for any damage or injury incurred by anyone to anything while trying follow the steps in this video. Any and all liability to any part for any direct, indirect, implied, punitive, special, incidental, or consequential damages arising directly or indirectly from any use of the video content is hereby disclaimed. No guarantees or warranties are either implied or expressed that you will have the same results as shown in this video.
Years ago when these motors first came out a lady bought a Chevy Cruze and put 37 miles on it before hydrolocking it in a flooded street. As you can imagine, no warranty obviously and she couldn't wait on insurance to fix it. They're was zero info online about these motors and how to time them so i went down to the Chevy dealership and was picking their minds and no one had a clue how they were timed but they had a brand new jig setup to time them. They were kind enough to let me borrow it providing i come back and show their techs who haven't been schooled on it yet on how is done. Was simple to figure out with the instructions with the tools and I taught those young pups what's what. Worked like a charm
Great! Yeah, when something is new like that with no information... what do you do? Glad you were able to get it going again!
So it was simple with the instructions. But the dealership techs couldn't figure it out. And they needed you to go on ahead and take there timing tool. As long as you agreed to come back and teach them how to use it. Wow what a believable story. You must be like a super mechanic or something is what you are saying. If it wasn't for you showing those young pups what's what the dealership would still be clueless. And nobody would ever know how to time a Chevy Cruze. Thank goodness for you sir. All of us Chevy Cruze owners are in debt to you for you showing those young pups what's what.
I guess you were just watching this how to video for Chevy Cruze head gasket just to make sure they were using the tool correctly. After all. You taught the dealership how to use it when they were clueless. Totally makes sense why you are watching this how too video.
Lol
Bro you won't believe how many people you have helped from all around the world, seriously can't thank you enough 🙏❤️❤️
I'm just happy to help. Thanks for watching!
Ditto. Blown head gasket on my son's girlfriends' 2013 Chevy cruz. I had put in a new turbo just a couple months ago, coolant leak before that, and valve cover leaking oil, and learned to hate them with a passion. Your 2 part videos were invaluable. Thank you very much.
Glad they helped. Hopefully you're good for a while now! Thanks for watching!
About to tackle one. Not the first head gasket I have done but I have downloaded part 1 and 2 to follow along if I get stuck anywhere. Thanks for having this info available. Friend bought an auction car with a blown head gasket and he is going to make thousands in profit once it is running right.
Happy to help. Thanks for watching!
from the scraped off registrastion this guy did the same thing lol
I don't know what it is, I just love the sound of this little engine
You can keep mine lol POS car
Followed your video step by step and my 2013 chevy cruze started right up and has ran great! Thank you very much.
Where did you get head bolts from? Can’t seem to find them
Good to hear! Happy to help!
@@3DayWeekendman ,what cause blown headgasket on this engines?where else the main problem besides head cylinder crack ?
You definitely deserve more subs. Patient, methodical and thoroughly explained. Thank you for your time and effort!
He has left out a few steps in this fucked up journey
@@petehenderson of all the flavors, you chose salty.
Just getting ready to do my wife's 2014 Buick with the 1.4 turbo like this one. Head gasket blew at 144K. I hoping I don't need a new head but reading these comments I'm losing hope .... sounds like once the head gasket goes, the head WILL crack ?? Hers got pretty hot and violent and quit while on the hi-way at 55mph. I really appreciate you sharing time and knowledge with us on your videos. You have another subscriber ! Thanks again !!
Thanks for watching! It all seems to depend on how hot it got and how many times. The failure rate for the ones I've had to do are 50/50. I wish they were a little more resilient, but nothing you can do. When they fail, they overheat quickly!
One flat on cam bolt is 60 degrees. Paint Marker works great for your 60 deg. future reference. Great video tho keep up the good work
Excellent pointer! I did not think about a flat being 60 degrees. Thanks for sharing, and thanks for watching!
I drive a Cruze and this video helps if I ever blow my gasket honestly doesn’t look to be too hard
Right, it's really not that difficult. The worst part can be the exhaust manifold bolts if they are rusted, and the turbo oil drain line bolts can be a bear to line up. Otherwise, not terrible.
Great instructions. I just did my 06 Altima Head gasket and got that car running good then boom my 2014 Cruze starts dumping water in the cylinders. I will be pausing and rewinding this video a bunch!
Oh, man. Sorry about your luck! Hopefully this video helps you out. Thanks for watching!
Doing this now! Tacing putting it together just gotta get my intake on and air box and we shall see
Fingers crossed!
Just want to say thank you for the well described video. I'm sure GM hates you 😂 but we all love you! Thanks!!!
Glad you found it helpful! Thanks for watching!
You made this video 1 week after I paid someone to do this for me :(. All the other videos were Trash quality. Thank you for posting this! Great video and I’m sure you helped a hand ful of ppl
D'oh! But yes, I've seen the other videos and they were useless. That's why I made this one! I hope it has helped others over the years. Thank you for watching!
This video saved me thousands of dollars. Thanks so much!!!
So glad it helped! Thank you very much!!
This video helped me a lot in order to repair my chevy cruze 2012 , you are the best man! nice and very professional your video
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Great video. Still referencing it as i put this thing back together. Thought i would mention, when you did your valve cover bolts, i think you missed some. I have 15 and im pretty sure yours has 15 too. So the torque order was close, but was a bit different near the end.
Also i saw a diagram on the headbolt torque that was different that yours.
Kepp your fingers crossed for me. So muck stuff to put back together...
Interesting.... Perhaps they vary by year or aftermarket service manuals do it slightly different. Either way, this car is still out there running strong a few years later! Best of luck to you! Hopefully you're able to get yours back on the road soon! Thanks for watching!
@3DayWeekend yep, got it going. Still have to put the splash shields on and need to replace one of the oil lines that developed a drip, but my daughter has drove it to work all week...
Thank you sir. Greetings from TÜRKİYE 🎉This is very special and helpfull video that everybody dont want to teach. Thank you
Greetings! You are very welcome. Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
I hope you used new head bolts and VVT solenoid actuator valves. They are all torque to yield which is incredibly stupid in my opinion. Great video, super helpful as I might be buying one of these cheap because the head gasket is blown.
New head bolts yes, but re-used everything else (other than gaskets). Thanks for watching!
@@3DayWeekend Something else I noticed, is that if the crank is locked in place, both cams are locked in place and the exciter wheels are free spinning until tightened. Aren't you supposed to get them in place and THEN release the timing chain tension to put the sprockets in the correct place (with the chain tensioned and everything locked at TDC), then install the guide lock between cams and then tighten the VVT? I think that is why you were having issues with the wheels not lining back up when you rotated the engine. As the chain was going to its "set" position without tension first. I could be wrong. I've read the manual, reread the manual, watched many videos and still am unclear on the process! lol. Thanks for your vid, and thanks for the help if you find time.
ofc he used new bolts but most wouldnt change the valves.
Do NOT cut gasket! Just take the extra time and pull the timing chain cover and replace gasket properly!
Definitely an option, but the gasket is designed to be cut, and the service manual has instructions for either way - pulling the timing cover and replacing the entire gasket, or cutting it on the marks and replacing only the top portion. If there are any oil leaks on that side of the engine, I'm with you - replace the whole thing! Thanks for watching!
You don't need to, It'd be a pain in the ass if you had to do it this way for a head gasket job..
Nice job.. I overheated my Cruze yesterday when a heater hose blew.. I have a hose joiner showing up tomorrow so I can fill it with plain water to test it.. fingers crossed I don't have to follow your lead..:)
Let's hope it's OK! Seems like a common failure point for sure.
After work like this, I like to change the oil after running the engine for at least a few minutes. That tends to flush any loose debris off the head and valve train and get it into the oil filter or sump so that it can be removed during the change.
Great point! Thanks for sharing.
I run it for a minute or 2 with diesel fuel then drain change oil & filter run it for a while change oil filter again
Just bought a 2014 for my 16 year old daughters first car. I have no reason to watch this video but I watched both of them and it was very enjoyable. I'll be watching your TC video next to see what I may be in for in the future :)
Awesome stuff, I love you how you did the fast forward through parts of this. So many other videos just cut away and sometimes it is helpful to see how you maneuver parts in and out rather than the cut and its in.
Thanks for watching! I agree, a lot can be missed between two video cuts, which is why I like to roll the time lapse. I figure if there is some small detail someone is having issues with, they can at least slow that part down for a closer look! It's not always possible to do it, but I definitely make an effort each time.
probably should have bought her a Toyota I've got a 16 Cruze in my driveway 71k miles leaking water pump blown head gasket with a loan.out of warranty.But your car had a 100k 10 year warranty on the water pump
@@johnmitchell2741 Same here at 90,000. Already dropped $1700 for new water pump and oil filter housing (lost oil pressure). Blown head gasket and now water in the Oil. Engine is now seized.
Although i'm responding to you 2 years later, I'm also an owner of a 2014 for my first car. I am also watching for entertainment lol.
@@cheeseburber2967 we still have the car. Daughter drives it everyday. We’ve had a few things that needed replacing. Most recently had to replace a spark plug and the cables. I think it’s been a good little car for her and if you put some time and money into them they seem to be decent. I think these less expensive cars often don’t get the care that they need and get a bad rap.
Yhu do the up most greatest job on explaining everything step by step… no body else does that or knows what they are talking about 💯
Thanks for the compliments, and thanks for watching!
Yes attention to detail when it is needed without a lot of undue chatter.
Good video. Although you did not mention that Chevrolet indicates that the motor mount bolts are torque-to-yield and should not be reused. Just like the head bolts, only new motor mount bolts are supposed to be used. Basically, any bolt with a torsional torque spec plus an additional angle spec is a torque to yield bolt and should not be reused.
I found your comment very interesting and had to ask around. Although the service manual does not mention anywhere that the engine mount bolts are torque-to-yield, I did confirm through Chevrolet that they are and must be replaced after servicing! Thanks for the info!
thanks for the video, i'm in the process of putting everything back together on my 1.4L Sonic.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Great video. Doing this on my daughters car 2015. Definitely not one of my 3800 impala..... mores the pity
Thanks! Good luck to you!
Great and helpful video. Im getting ready to do my 15 this weekend.
Glad it helped. Best of luck to you! Thanks for watching!
I'm going to subscribe. I'm just buying a buick with this motor. I would have like to hear what a brand new turbo should sound like when motor is reved up. Thank you for the video.
Thanks for the sub and for watching! I can't hear the turbo from inside, but I can't say I've ever revved it up while outside the car. Now you have me curious as well! If (and that's a BIG IF) I get another one of these, I'll have to give it a try!
Thanks million times.. Watching from South Africa..
Awesome! Hopefully you found it helpful. Thank you for watching!
I’m curious how your cams came to be out of phase by 180 degrees? Will that happen every time this job is done or was that something that happened off camera? If you took the head off at tdc the cans shouldn’t have moved ?
You have a 50/50 chance of the cams being 180 out of phase when you set TDC at the crank. The crankshaft turns over twice for every one revolution of the cams. When you're setting TDC on the crank, you could then look at the cams and see if they are out of phase or not. If they are, give the crank one more turn, and you'll be good. Hope that helps to explain it!
Great video very well explained saved my car from the junkyard
Glad it helped! Thank you for watching!
your video continues to help!!! Question? I turned engine to top dead centerand removed head. If the head cams never moved during removal I shouldn't have to turn cmas 180* after installation?
Note keep an eye on the timing belt tensioner it will.jump apart in end up on floor.
Yes, if the pin doesn't go directly through the hole, it will pull out, release the tensioner, and parts will fly everywhere! Definitely worth having a second person for that part to help guide it out.
Lopez from florida Hi! thanks to present this video . i like it. i hope you can fix my car . i find a little water inside with spark plug wet. because over heating by thermosta stay close broken.
Yes, overheating is the typical cause of a failing head gasket in this engine. Coolant in the combustion chamber is a tell-tale sign of a bad head gasket. Hopefully you're able to get it up and running again!
Quick question, I have been following your video while doing the headgasket repair my head is currently at the machine shop. My question is in regards to timing. Like you I noticed my cams were 180 degrees out phase when at top dead center. My question is when putting the plate in to get them turned all the way around you put the engine back to top dead center with the pin in. Isnt this the opposite of how it was when you pulled the head?
If u have a reman head u can put the plate in outside the vehicle before installation also you have to remove the chain tension to the other head do not remove pin while removing and installing to reman head also look at the valves to ensure all are closed while the holding plate is inside the Groove before installing on car to ensure proper timing
Hey man first of all really appreciate you taking the extra time & effort to make this video, I know it’s a lot of work so thank you.
I’ve got a question, though. I have the head off and the new gasket will not fit on the block. Two of the holes on the block protrude a little and those are not lining up, I get one side to fit and the other is off a few millimeters.. does that mean my block is warped? Thank you
A block wouldn't warp in that direction, and certainly not by a few millimeters. If it were warped, the deck wouldn't be flat, but my a matter of thousands of an inch. Perhaps the head gasket isn't right? Or upside down? Not sure on that one. Hopefully you were able to figure it out!
Hey I really want to thank you for getting back to me and answering all my silly questions I have to commend you for all the hard work and detail you put in to every one of your videos,Thanks,John
Thank you!
These two videos have really helped me work on my Cruze. Thank you so much. My head was cracked and I just got my new head. The new one did not come with new camshafts, rocker arms or valve lifters, so I have to transfer them from the old head to the new. Is there a special tool to remove and install the valve lifters?
I've never had to remove them, but the service manual does not indicate that there are any special tools required. Thanks for watching. Glad the videos helped!
Thanks a lot. The most professional video so far on this engine.
Happy to help. Thank you so much for watching!
When you said “ turn the engine” for the timing to line the black block you turned over the crank from the bottom correct and pulled the silver pin in the block out. Then after you line up the cams you reinstalled the pin and crank lined up to the top? Thanks sir
Yes, that's right. I pulled the pin to rotate it, then put it back in. Thanks for watching!
Fantastic tutorial
Thanks for watching!
depending on the milage u should do the water pump and timing chain while u got it all apart,lot cheaper if your doing your own work!
This is true! I did end up replacing the water pump shortly after this project, and made another video about that. Haven't had a timing chain fail in a Cruze yet, but it could happen!
Thank you. you have helped me out big time Here in Australia. Cheers
Glad to help!
i got a question...my 2012 cruze LT 1.4 builds a lot of pressure in the cooling system. after driving it for a while the reservoir gets bubbles and fills up. There is no water in the oil I changed my thermostat...im not losing coolant. Although when i drain the coolant and did a refill my cars front tires were on ramps....should the car be leveled? i did watch videos on how to bleed the system. I dont here any noise by the fuel pump. What do you think? am i not draing and refilling the coolant properley?
It's possible it has air in it. It's also possible that the head gasket is bad and allowing compression to enter the coolant system. Hopefully you were able to bleed the system and it is running properly now!
@@3DayWeekend it passed a head gasket test…I’ve bled the system 6 different times
I have the same issue. Did you find a problem and a solution .
@@nikolayzalutskiy9436 yeah I got rid of the car😂😂 I’ll stick to Honda and Toyota
@russkaine It's 2017 buick encore. Not bad besides that.
Thank you, enabled me to work on a 2014 Chevy Volt. A/C compressor is a bear to slide out of the way on the Volt, though, and it hides the crankshaft opening for the pin. Wondering if I need to pin it, or just make sure I have TDC. Thanks again.
If it were me, I'd want that pin in there. Later, when you're setting the timing, you're going to want it absolutely perfect. That pin will ensure you're right at TDC. Thanks for watching! I'm glad the video helped.
The process was pretty simple with your videos, it wasn’t that bad for a person who’s not a mechanic. Car seems like it’s running fine. My question is how long does the smoke take to clear and it goes and comes. It will idle funny sometimes then idles just fine.
If the head is cracked, the white smoke will not go away. I've had one do exactly that. Seemed ok sometimes, then others there was a lot of smoke. The head was cracked. If everything is good, the smoke goes away quickly. Blue smoke means you have a different issue (rings, valve seals, etc). Hopefully that's not the case!
Good Series! I tried to keep track, but if you could double check my list it would be much appreciated: Parts needed: Front Cover Gasket, Head Gasket, Head Bolt set, CPASV Gaskets, Timing Cover Gasket, and have the head hydro-tested. Are there other things that should be done just because? Thanks again for the videos.
Sounds like you have it. I'd throw in a valve cover gasket too if that hasn't been changed. The OEM black ones are pretty rigid and won't like to re-seal after the head is decked. Don't forget the timing kit! Thanks for watching!
So why did the head gasket mess up? If it was a coolant leak do you know where it was leaking from? Maybe I can do a little preventive maintenance and fix coolant leak on Cruze before it gets too expensive. Thanks for the video
The typical reason for failure on these is from overheating from low coolant. Happens all the time. The most common leak is the water outlet housing on the driver's side of the cylinder head, or from the weep hole on the water pump, which is on the passenger side of the engine. I have videos published for both of these items. But yes, check those locations for leaks regularly, especially if you smell coolant under the hood, and check your coolant level often. If the level starts to go down, you could have a potential issue on your hands. Hope that helps! Thank you for watching!
This video has been a lifesaver. Thank you so much! No mention of the camshaft exciter bolts being TTY, did you replace them during the repair?
Correct, they are TTY, but I reuse them. They always take the torque and I haven't had a failure yet despite having done this job on quite a few 1.4's, but technically they should be replaced, same as the head bolts. Glad the video was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Great video. Question about timing. I’m confused to why the timing was off after using the timing tool and everything was torqued in this video. Could you help explain why that happened better? I’m referring to the cam phasers.
Sure thing. The timing tool only fits in one way, but the trick is to make sure the tool is sitting flush on top of the head to ensure it is lined up with the right grooves. The first time I tightened it down, the timing tool seemed to fit, but didn't quite sit flush on the head. This is because one of the phasers was lined up using the wrong groove. The timing tool didn't seat fully into that incorrect groove, so it didn't sit flush on the head with the cam bolts tightened up. If you look at your timing tool, the exhaust slot is pretty long - a couple inches. The intake side has a short one - maybe a half inch. The phaser has two different half inch slots. One is just a cut in the top, but the other is cut in the top AND down into the side a little bit. The timing tool has to sit in the deeper one. Hopefully that helps clarify...... Thanks for watching!
I have a haynes repair manual for a chevy cruse 1.4 turbo...the cylinder head bolt tightening sequence in the book is totally different from what l seen you do..
24044-2a-12.17a HAYNES
The bolt pattern starts from the outsides and works its way in to the middle..
Thanks
The pattern for the cover you put on the head with the 15 bolts was the same as what they had in the book..
But the head bolts were a different pattern..The 1.8 is also the same..could this be a misprint..
Thanks..
That is interesting! I was using the Alldata service manual for this one. I just confirmed that this service manual definitely starts on the inside and works out. In the grand scheme of things, it probably doesn't matter which of those patterns you follow, but I'm sure there are arguments for each!
@@jamesparmiter9393 you always start inside and work your way out when tightening. the opposite when loosening. distortion/warp is common in the middle, where the most heat and pressure is on the center bolts.
Wonderful tutorial, it will help me big time with this engine, thanks! Regarding torque sequence, the one in the Haynes is correct. One you tightened the three bolts to fasten the head to the front cover, beginning the torque here prevents gasket from moving and distorting. I believe, if I remember correctly, the torque sequence starting in the middle is for the 1.8L. I don’t believe it matters since most patterns tend to start in the middle.
Do U have a part number for the tool u used to set timing?
Sure do. I'll add it to the video descriptions as well.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VGCR3GV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
First off great videos I appreciate you. I followed thru step by step. got the head machined passed the tests had to get it shaved down. but everything back together car took awhile to start rough idle ran it for 30-40 mins Drained oil and changed filter spark plugs seem to have burnt oil or fuel. idk if there is too much moisture still in the engine. I’ve been letting it run for 35-45 mins a few times a day it getting better nothing dripping besides water from the exhaust. Car is Misfiring cylinder 2 and 3 maybe due to bad reading from 02 sensors? Any help would be appreciated 🤙🏼🤙🏼
Oh, boy, that's a tough one. It could be so many things, but I wouldn't let it run for long if it's misfiring. It could mess up your catalytic converter. Any moisture in the engine would be burned off within a minute if it were right. If there aren't any trouble codes, it might be worth checking compression. You could have glazed a cylinder if it overheated. I did another video on that if you want to check it out.
@@3DayWeekend thanks I was going to run a compression test today see what happens.
I've got to do a head gasket and timing cover gasket on my 1.4...im assuming I'd need to do the head gasket first then the timing cover gasket so I can put the sealant on both sides of the cover gasket ?
Right. Do the entire head gasket job, then do the timing cover job so you don't need to split your timing cover gasket like I did in this video. You'll be able to put it on all in one piece. Good luck on your project! Hopefully everything turns out well for you. Thanks for watching!
Hi. I've been following your video for this job. My torx plug timing bolt stripped on the side of the motor stripped. I finally got it off but I can not find a replacement anywhere. Where do you recommend I look? Thank u for your time.
Mine did the same and I purchased a replacement from the local Chevrolet dealership.
The part number is 11099272.
Thanks to kst8engineer. Looks like they answered your question!
Great Videos! I have one question for you, Did they Repair that Cracked Cooling port in the Exhaust Port that was causing the leak? If they did, how did they repair it for you?
Unfortunately, the head was not repairable. I ended up getting a replacement from my local salvage yard. Thanks for watching!
Ive gone through your part 1 of 2. And now onto part 2 of 2 and you didnt give a torque value on the exhaust manifold. Other than that great video. Enjoy tear down of part 1 and the install of part 2 and keeping them seperate. Awesome video again
Surprisingly enough, my service manual does not give a torque spec for the exhaust manifold. I just checked again, and it's not in there. Must be why I skipped over that one. I didn't put them on crazy tight, as they can be stubborn to remove. Nice an snug with the quarter inch driver was enough so far. I'm glad you found the video helpful. Hopefully you were able to get it back together! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this two part series. It's very through and we'll filmed to really show you all of the steps. Great job! I'm hoping you can answer a question about a timing. My old head was too warped to machine so i got as new one. The cams are 90° out of phase with other. Is there any harm in rotating them out of the engine and is the direction of rotation clockwise as you're looking at the area where the gears will sit? Thanks for any advice you can give.
No harm in rotating the cams while they are out of the engine, and it doesn't matter which way you rotate them. Once everything is back in position you'll be setting the timing anyway. Thanks for watching and for the compliments!
Great video!! Would it be a good idea to set the phase of the cams using the alignment plate before installing the head? I think that would eliminate the need to rotate the crank in order to rotate the cams 180 to install the plate and save some time. In Part 1 I noticed the tensioner pin was still in the head. When does that come out? I assume it is removed from the head before it goes to the machine shop. When and how does it go back in? Also there were 2 pins in that kit, a long and short. I noticed you used the long one for the tensioner. Where does the short one go?
Yes, it absolutely would be better to set the cam phase before installing the head. I had overlooked that while putting it together, but I'm glad that it showed "worst case scenario" for others who may make the same mistake!
I never took the pin out of the tensioner. When I sent the head to the machine shop, I removed the entire tensioner (including pin) off the head as one piece and set it aside. Once I had the replacement head, I installed the tensioner and pin back on the head.
The short pin in the kit is not used for this project.
Thanks for watching!
@@3DayWeekend Unfortunately I had the headgasket replaced by a shade tree mechanic, but we did not send it to a shop, and it had low compression in the center 2 cylinders. Still mixing oil and water. This time I pulled the head myself and took it to a machine shop and they told me there were multiple cracks in the head. My mechanic/teacher friend in the RealFixesRealFast UA-cam channel told that there was a good chance that the block was also cracked or compromised, is it decision time. Spend $300 on a used head, have it tested and machined and pay the $150+ for gaskets and head bolts and take the time to reassemble to find out the block is cracked, or just buy a guaranteed used motor for $2200-$2800 and drop it in as a unit.
@@3DayWeekend BTW, I could never get the pin in the hole of the tensioner. Tried for a long time. Ended up just disassembling it without the pin in place.
@@bitcoincowboy5659 You are so kind in referring to that mechanic as a shade tree.
Ill bet you meant something else and your settings for text changed it.
@@carlovincetti4538 "Shade tree" means a guy who works on cars under the shade of a tree. Not a professional. Shade tree usually implies worse than an alley mechanic.
I don't see why not just remove the 6 bolts for the intake manifold off of the cylinder head, and remove the 6 nuts on the exhaust manifold side to remove that.
Remove the vvt actuators to get access to the bolts that press fit the sprockets on the camshafts. Remove the sprockets off the cams, loosen the cylinder head bolts, then remove the cylinder head, and there goes the head gasket ready to be removed.
I'm confused on why all the disconnecting of the tubes on the intake manifold, and removing the turbo off the Catalytic converter. Sure, there would be less space, but alot of time would be saved by just not completely removing those items separately, unless they're getting replaced.
I did say during the Part 1 video the job can be done without completely removing the intake manifold from the engine compartment. I've always had to remove the exhaust manifold to get enough space though. I wanted to show the procedure as it is outlined in the service manual, which has you remove both completely. Hope that helps clarify!
@3DayWeekend totally get the service manual part. It does say that, but it's unnecessary. Also, there is space to remove the exhaust manifold as well.
I have a question, the timing phasers have marks on them , how are they aligned ? Or what are they aligned to?
You line up everything with the timing tools. Flat plate for your cams, big pin for your crank, then the metal brace over the top of your phasers to line them up. With all 3 parts in place, your engine is in time. Hope that helps!
First off, awesome video sir!! I am going to be undertaking this job later this week and had a quick question for you. Can you also leave the exhaust manifold/turbo assembly in the engine bay and just pull it away from the head? Or does it actually have to be completely removed?
I've always pulled it out. I've never tried to leave it in. Maybe by now you've tried and can let us know if it worked? Thanks for watching! I'm glad it helped!
Yes, it can be done. It’s kind of a pain to get off the manifold studs but it does clear! There are a few minor things to disconnect (that plastic pipe and vacuum line to the turbo) but there is a nut down below to remove that helps hold the exhaust pipe on and take the band clamp off. I fear that this job may not be going back together though as the head gasket was perfect and the head is not warped… We’re waiting for a confirmation from the machine shop and but I’m betting the head is cracked (number 1 was filled with coolant). The gentleman that owns the car may not even proceed with fixing it. Besides the cost of a new head we discovered a number of the plastic coolant housings were cracked and extremely brittle. He fears that it may just bring more headaches to come but we will see. Thank you again sir for this video, you genuinely made life a lot easier for me!
I just replace my head due to a blown gasket. Setting the timing, I cannot for the life of me get the cam retainer plate to slide in and out smoothly. I have to preload the cams slightly to get the plate to go in. It was this way with my old head also. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong?
The engine is TDC, the cam phasers are clocked properly, visually everything looks good.
Make sure the tensioner retaining pin is out and give it one more try if you didn't already. I did have one engine that I could not get to slide it smoothly no matter what I did. I had to put a little pressure on the intake cam with my wrench and it would slide in. I put it back together like that, and it ran like a champ with no issues. You might be OK to just send it as-is. I didn't have to turn the cam, just a little pressure was enough for the plate to fit in. If it's wrong, you'll get a code for cam/crank correlation and you'll have to try again.
Where were you a few months ago? Had to watch a guy do this who only spoke Spanish. Good video
Yeah... and he didn't really show how he did it step by step. There was a lot of information missing. That's why I made this one! Thank you!
Thank you so much for this detailed video!!!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
How many hours did this take from start to finish? How many hours would a dealer charge for this? Thanks in advance, this is a really good series of videos!
I didn't really time myself, but looks like the standard expected time for a dealer is 11 hours.
I just got the news that my head gasket is bad on my 2013 cruze and the dealership won’t change it because they said they couldn’t garuntee the work because they didn’t have a machine shop to mill the head if it needed it and that GM recommended replacing the engine for $10,000.
I’m having trouble with the timing actuator sprocket holder. I have it in all the correct places but it is like a teeter totter because the spot where the middle screw gets tightened is too high to make everything flat. 22:29
That's very odd. I've done multiple rebuilds and it always fits flush on all three mounting spots if installed correctly. I'm not sure what would cause that. Hopefully you were able to figure it out....
When you took the head to the machine shop, did you leave the cams in it?
Ditto... curious to hear the answer
@@willstarttomorrow7131 I am actually talking my 2012 cruze 1.4T head to the machine shop tomorrow to get resurfaced and pressure tested. My machinist said "you can bring it to me with the cams in it".
The other reason I am asking is because he said the cams were 180 degrees out of time. If you timed the engine like he mentioned before removing the heads, the cams SHOULD have stayed in time. So maybe his machinist pulled the cams and put them back in 180 out? 🤔
@Johnny Turbo... thanks for the quick reply
Yes, I did leave the cams in the head went I sent it to the machine shop. He didn't have to take them out of the head to surface it.
The crankshaft spins twice to every 1 rotation of the cams. When you set the crank to TDC, you have a 50/50 shot of the cams being at TDC as well, or 180 degrees off. One more rotation of the crank will bring everything to TDC so the timing marks match up.
Hope that helps!
@@3DayWeekend thanks! Once the cams are removed, as long as they are rotated so the cam timing tool fits in the end of them, they are timed correct?
Great Video! Saved me tons of time. U da man
Glad I could help!
Good job, but it's a lot of work, my car just blow head. About how much would it cost to fix.
If you're doing it yourself, the head gasket, head bolts, exhaust manifold, new manifold bolts, and having the head machined will set you back maybe $350. It will also need an oil change and some coolant when you're done. I've heard of shops charging a couple to a few thousand.
Great Video!!! Could you have aligned the cam before putting it onto the block? How long did the job take you from beginning to end?
Thanks! Yes, the cam can be set up properly outside the car. I did it this way to show what to do if someone forgot. The first time took weeks because the head had to be sent out, then it was found to be bad, so I had to source another head and get that machined, then I had to wait for some parts. Work wise, first time... I'd say maybe 8 hours or so.
Wait a minute..did you rotate that engine two revolutions with the pin on the crank?! Lol j/k. Your video was extremely helpful because im doing same job, I'm waiting for the new head to come in but I was researching how to set timing and you explained it well. Thank you sir
haha Thank you!
My Question is the camshaft sprockets how do they get timed or dont they?
The sprockets don't matter. Just time the cams, crank, and exciter wheels using the timing kit, and tighten it all down. Turn it over a few times, then verify your timing is still good, then send it!
i didn’t see when you removed the cam pin that’s stuck in the left side of the head, mine is still in, is that why i can’t set my cam timing/ why i can’t turn my cams? engine is not at TDC
I removed the timing pin once I had the cam sprockets re-installed, but before setting the timing. That way your tension is correct while setting the timing. You should be able to turn the cam as long as your pistons are down out of the way, provided everything is installed properly. They won't move freely, as there is quite a bit of tension on them from the valve springs. If you're hung up on those, it will be a "soft stop" as you put pressure against a spring. If you're hitting a piston, it will be a "hard stop" when you try to turn it. Hope that helps!
nissan sentra went to shop check my A/C said it was good but still not blowing cold air
Well, that's not good! If the pressure is good, then it's time to start looking at the clutch. Is it engaging? If not, then why? Sometimes it can be a bad pressure sensor, other times the clutch itself is bad. I will typically short the relay to manually kick it on. That will tell you if it's a sensor/computer issue, or if it is a clutch issue. If pressures are good and the clutch is spinning, the blend door may be stuck. Hopefully you're able to get that figured out!
You could have washed the vanity cover before putting it back on. 😁
Very true! I didn't show it, but once I ran the engine for a bit to make sure it wasn't going to explode, I did degrease the entire engine bay. Looked like new again!
Just throw it out lol
The cam locking plate won't slide in effortlessly on mine we've loosened and readjusted a couple times but the exhaust cam always needs a tiny wiggle for the plate to slide in. Can't see it move when removed
Well all I can say is it must not be an issue because she runs great!
I had one engine that gave me a little resistance at that part. I found an ever so slight burr on one cam shaft slots that was keeping the plate from sliding in. I sanded it down and the plate slid right in. Probably not necessary, but sometimes I go overboard!
Awesome! Must have been close enough then! Glad you got it up and running again!
@3DayWeekend Awesome to know glad I wasn't crazy!
QUICK QUESTION SO MY SPARK PLUGS HAD OIL WHEN BEING CHANGED AND OIL DID NOT SEEM MILKY AT ALL. I BOUGHT THE HEAD GASKET. THE CAR STARTED SMOKING WHITE OUT THE MUFFLER AFTER SPARK PLUGS WERE CHANGED THOUGH BUT CAR WAS MESSING UP BEFORE THE SPARK PLUG CHANGE IF THAT MAKES ANY SENSE. WHAT CAN IT BE?
If you have oil sitting down on your spark plugs, it means your valve cover gasket is bad. This is a common failure, and not too expensive or difficult to fix. If the spark plugs are removed with the oil sitting on them, it will allow the oil to leak down into the cylinder. The next time the car is started, it will burn off that oil, and you will see smoke from the exhaust, but it should be blue smoke and only last for a little while.
White smoke from the exhaust could just be condensation, and is normal, especially in cooler temperatures. If the exhaust smells sweet though, that could be coolant getting into the combustion chamber, which indicates a much bigger problem.
Hope that helps!
Thank you! We truly appreciate it 🙏 ❤️
Happy it helped. Thanks for watching!
@3Day Weekend
I'm going to replace three things, the piston rings, head gasket, and oil cooler, first do I have to replace the camshaft bolts, or is it ok to reuse the old ones?
Could you also please mention any other parts I need to replace that are not reusable like bolts or gaskets..? Anything else you recommend replacing while I'm there??
Thanks in advance ❤️❤️
I really want to know how you put the timing chain tensioner back in that's on the side of the head
Leave the pin in it when you're ready to reinstall. Tilt that end of the head down and the first thing I do is line up the pin with the hole in the timing cover. Once the pin starts coming through that hole, I start lining up the rest of the head. It is much easier with a second person to hold the transmission side of the head, but I've done it alone (with a lot of grunting).
Hey brother, I have a question for you . If a 2013 Chevy Cruze car has 100,000 miles on it and a blown head gasket, should just the head gasket be replaced or should the piston rings be replaced too?
You shouldn't have to do the rings. I do the rings in another video because the previous driver kept trying to drive it repeatedly while it was overheating. That glazed the cylinder walls. Of all the cruzes we've done with bad head gaskets, only one had glazed cylinders. If it was running fine before the head gasket failure, wasn't consuming oil or misfiring, and it wasn't run for extended periods of time overheated, the rings are most likely OK. Hope that helps, and I hope your rings are OK! Thanks for watching!
If you idle you dont really see to much if gasket was perfectly seal when you drive if still not sit properly will make car overheat and lose coolant I will drive around to make sure at 100%
That's correct. I idle a heat cycle or two first to make sure there isn't any air in the system. Once I'm content, I'll take it out on a good drive. Definitely don't want to overheat it right out of the gate with a new head gasket!
So do i remove the pins when positioning the camshafts?
The cam tensioner pin yes, but the crank pin no. Remove the crank pin when you turn the engine over by hand, but be sure to put it back in to re-check the timing.
excellent video man 🙂🙂
Thanks! Hope you found it helpful!
Not sure if my first comment posted I've been following your videos. My question is in regards to timing with the cams. When you originally pulled the head the cams were already 180 degrees out of phase when the engine was at top dead center. So why would flipping the cams all the way around to get the plate to fit and keeping the engine at top dead center get it in time? Would this do the opposite would be 180 degrees out of time at this point? I appreciate any input thank you for the videos very helpful!
I think I understand your asking, so let me do my best to answer this for you. The crankshaft will spin twice for every one revolution of the cam shaft. This means that at top dead center, your cams will either be at their "top dead center" or 180 degrees opposite of that (which mine were). You basically have a 50/50 shot of the cams being in the "right" position for every rotation of the crankshaft. During disassembly, if I had turned the crank one more full rotation, then the cams would have been lined up for the timing plate. Does that answer your question?
@@3DayWeekend yes it does for every one completed spin of the crankshaft the cams turn half way. So the only thing to do is to spin the crank one more full rotation and the cams will be in line if you were already 180 degrees out of phase. Thank you
I used your videos to replace the head gasket on my 2017 Buick Encore. The videos were a huge help. Very detailed. When i got the head back from being resurfaced i went ahead and turned the camshafts until the plate fit in the end of them . I did this before installing the head. After getting the camshafts lined up all the valves were closed except for the exhaust valves on the #2 cylinder. They were open about .093 . Is that normal? Please help
Is this the same process to remove and replace the valve lash lifters
You shouldn't have to completely remove the cylinder head to access the lifters, but I believe you will still need to take out the cam sprocket bolts to remove the cam shafts.
@@3DayWeekend also with that timing kit from Amazon the square block piece how is that supposed to be used?
@@nathandominguez7465 you can remove the lifters easily. you only have to remove the cam cover. do not touch the timing. screwdriver is all you need... if you still want to learn.. reply
Watching that effort in fast motion for that 180 tells me you needed a longer half in. ratchet.
Haha yeah, it would definitely be helpful! I got 'er all snugged down eventually!
Thank You. it is very thorough...
Glad it was helpful!
After fixing my chevy cruze 2012 model it don't want to start when I try it goes blank
Did your battery discharge while you were working on it? Cables nice and tight? I'd start there.
How much it cost to replace head gasket for chevy cruze ? If you can help
I've heard of dealerships asking about $4,000. Lowest from a shop is about $2,000. Most of the cost depends on if your cylinder head is OK. The machine shop will be able to tell for sure. Hopefully yours is OK!
Great couple of videos. I've probably watched 4 times up till now. I couldn't have attempted this job without them. I had to replace cracked head. I have come to a point that I need to ask you something.
I'm understanding that the camshaft sprocket bolts are torque to yield and should be replaced. I noticed that you didn't. You did replace the torque to yield head bolts. So, can I also reuse the camshaft sprocket bolts?
Thanks for watching! Yes, the head bolts must be replaced. Sprocket bolts can be reused though.
At 14:50, what does that chain tool do, that the factory chain guide that goes there doesn't do?
It has little teeth on it that hold the front sprocket in place while you line everything up.
@@3DayWeekend thanks, yup I just did a head job on my 2012 cruze thanks to you 😁👍 great videos
Need more explanation on the timing part
If you have the tool, it's pretty self-explanatory. Put the crank shaft pin in (remove the timing chain pin), turn the cams to install the timing plate on the right side of them, and install the timing set over the sprockets. It will only tighten down if you have it installed correctly. Once everything fits together like I show (crank pin in, plate on the cams, and timing set fully seated), you're in time!
I dont understand why you did not install the cam postion plate before removing head so it would be already lined up ?
You can do it that way for sure. Sometimes for videos, you have to do things "wrong" or "the hard way" so you can show how to fix it if someone else were to do it that way. Thanks for watching!
Did you have to buy a new head or was you able to repair that one ?
This one had a crack and had to be replaced. I was able to get one from my local salvage yard. I sent it to the machine shop and it passed the tests so he resurfaced it and I installed it on this engine. Cracked heads are rare. Typically they are just warped.
Hi! How much will this job be with labor and everything?
Every shop will be a little different, but I would expect somewhere in the $2-3000 range, assuming the head itself is OK.
What is the actual point of the aluminium block with the cam adjuster ? If the slots at other end are located ?
The cams can be moved independently of the sprockets. So... pin for the crank, the aluminum cage for the exciter wheels, and the flat black plate for the cams. That will get everything lined up properly.
What are the head bolt toque specs? Also the bolt in the end of the cam shafts by the timing chain? And the cam bearing bolts?
All of those specs are in the video, minus the camshaft bearing cap bolts. I never removed them. They get tightened to 71 inch pounds in a spiral pattern (similar to the head bolt pattern).
Also Led lights on the hood take away a lot of shadows.
The channel has progressed a lot in the past couple years, and I now have a light that is mounted directly to the camera. It eliminates all the shadows, provided I remember to turn it on! Thank you so much for watching and for your suggestions!
@@3DayWeekend Yeah i figured as much this video has been out for a while and its a bit of a life saver cuz nobody else has this removal for any of these sonic engines.
2012 cruze running hot,no heat,no coolant lost..... new thermostat,water pump & radiator and still overheating
Any ideas?
If you have no heat, you are either low on coolant or your water pump isn't pumping (faulty pump, an air pocket around the impeller, or a blockage in your hoses somewhere). Make sure you don't keep letting it over heat. Those heads love to warp if they get too hot...