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Hey there! I can typically find them online and download them for free. Search for "2014 rzr 800 service manual pdf" and you'll typically get some results. I like the PDF version so I can save them on my shop computer. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!

To-may-toe, to-mah-toe. Lol You're right, though. Around here we've always said it this way, but I researched the origin of the word and it comes from "Stationary" and "Rotor". I concede and will try to do better! :-)

Yes, overheating is the typical cause of a failing head gasket in this engine. Coolant in the combustion chamber is a tell-tale sign of a bad head gasket. Hopefully you're able to get it up and running again!

Thanks!

It is possible that's all you need, if your describing the sound of the ABS and/or Traction Control System activating. If a sensor is faulty, it can sometimes make the computer think a wheel is going the wrong speed, and the ABS/TCS will attempt to slow the other wheels.

No, no need for that. The gasket it came with is sufficient.

Oh, sorry to hear that! We are really looking forward to the track, but it is going to take a long time to get it ready. At this point I'm hoping to have at least the track driveable in the fall, but we'll see how it goes. Had issues with the dozer, and now it's going to rain for the next 3 days. Delays, delays! I'll be back out there as soon as the weather clears though!

Always check your manual to confirm. It will say in the section labelled "Oil Capacity". You can use the index in the back to find it quickly. The Charger we show in this video took 7 quarts.

There are a couple things you could check - first would be your shifter linkage. Sometimes the shifters will develop some play and you'll be unable to shift it properly. I would take the shifter assembly apart and isolate the shifter linkage, then move it by hand. If you can shift through the gears, you'll just need to work on the shifter. If it still doesn't shift, there could be a problem with the transmission. Hopefully it's just your shifter!

Thanks for the feedback! It has been a few years since I released that video and have made a lot of changes on other videos based on feedback such as this. I very rarely use music anymore, and if I do, the volume is much lower. Thanks again!

That means your stator is shorted to ground. You'll need to open the stator cover and likely replace it. Sometimes it's just a rub inside and can be repaired, while other times it is bad enough that it needs to be replaced. In any case, pulling the stator cover would be my next move.

No checklist, but I show how to remove the turbo and exhaust manifold in my other video, "Chevy Cruze Turbo Problems? Here's a complete guide to replacing it!" Hope that helps!

Thanks! Glad it was helpful!

The subwoofer's amp is internal to the enclosure. There is just a plug on one side that connects to the audio wiring harness. It's separate from the Rockford Fosgate amp that powers the speakers, which is bolted to the inside of the dash right behind the head unit.

We aren't 100% sure. It seems OEM, but does not say Polaris on it anywhere. Every other clutch I've pulled says Polaris right on it, but not this one. I took it apart and everything appears OEM though. Really not sure. The replacement clutch arrived this week, so we'll be putting it back together soon. Decided to give Harvey's Mother Clutcher a try, so I'll do a full review on that. We'll see how long it lasts!

You'll want to account for all the pieces of the chain tensioner. They are spring loaded, so if you pull it out without the tensioner locked in, the pieces may go flying. I would recommend buying a replacement to see what pieces it comes with, then be sure all the pieces from your old one are accounted for. They like to fall down through the timing cover and end up down in your oil pan. I would not start the engine until all the parts are recovered.

The ones I have listed here are a direct replacement for the OEM battery. Same size and everything! Technically, the OEM battery is sitting on its side, so the height actually becomes the width. Perhaps that's where the sizes aren't adding up? In any case, they fit perfectly down in there, and I haven't been left stranded once since I added that second battery. Definitely worth it in my opinion! Thanks for watching!

Yes it did. The turbo was a total loss. I had to replace the entire thing.

Have you been able to do that successfully in the past? Seems like the ECU would recognize that as a fault. Also, without the solenoid, it won't build up all the boost. You'd have to wire the wastegate closed as well, and that seems risky! If you've been able to do it, let us know the details!

@@3DayWeekend You buy a waste gate control set at 40psi plug the hole where the factory junk was screwed in with a plug you can buy. Then plug in the resistor pre made or use your own I can’t remember off the top of my head how many ohms but I bought mine pre-made.

@@3DayWeekend BTW the ECU sees the resistance as everything is OK and hooked up.

Yes, the two are pretty much identical other than the bodies.

It is possible. Be sure to rule out the other possible sources first - clean and tight battery connections, GOOD BATTERY, and test the stator. You shouldn't ever see less than 12v, as your battery should be charged well above that. The voltages you're seeing points me to the battery - either undercharged, a bad cell, or loose/corroded terminals. Hopefully you're able to find it!

Sure thing! Hopefully people will find this helpful. The wiring schematics can be very intimidating, but I found if I draw them out like this, they really aren't too bad. Thanks for watching!

Terrific! I have also experienced the "Service 4WD System" error, and was able to resolve it by pulling a fuse. It was in this exact same Jeep! Been working great since though, so here's hoping it was just a fluke. Thanks for watching all the way in Brazil!

It could be the exact same problem I had in this video, or you could have something wrong inside your differential. Knowing what I know now, I'd check the coupler first. If you still can't get it to work, crack open the differential and take a good look at the actuator mechanism. You should be able to test that right on the bench. Hope that helps! Good luck to you, and thanks for watching!

Good question! You can remove the crank pin with the head off. You'll be setting the timing later on once the head is back on, so it isn't crucial right now to have the crank at TDC. Just be sure to put the pin back in when you're ready to put the head back on so you can set your timing. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!

Yes, it is normal for things to smoke after a rebuild, and it will typically stop after a heat cycle or two. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!

Sorry to hear that. These engines can be trouble! Hopefully you were able to get it running again. Thank you for watching!

Sure thing! Hopefully you found it helpful. Thanks for watching!

Oh man! That's crazy! Hopefully you're able to fix it up and get it running again! Thanks for sharing and for watching!

Absolutely I enjoyed the video, keep up the great work 👍

You bet. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the pointers and for watching!

You shouldn't have to do the rings. I do the rings in another video because the previous driver kept trying to drive it repeatedly while it was overheating. That glazed the cylinder walls. Of all the cruzes we've done with bad head gaskets, only one had glazed cylinders. If it was running fine before the head gasket failure, wasn't consuming oil or misfiring, and it wasn't run for extended periods of time overheated, the rings are most likely OK. Hope that helps, and I hope your rings are OK! Thanks for watching!

They are perfect. No issues, and I highly recommend it! Kind-of a pain to put them on, but definitely worth it.

Oh wow! I haven't heard that sound! This one didn't make any noise when it actually failed. It just lost power and threw the code. Hopefully you're able to get it up and running again!

@@3DayWeekend working on it this weekend. There's a lot of oil on the front side of the engine where the crankshaft pulley and all that is. I didn't get an overpressure code but my boost sensor could be bad. I've got everything loose except that one hidden bolt on the oil return.

Glad to help. Thank you for watching!

That would make things SOOO much easier!!! Thanks for watching!

These engines, although prone to many failures, are definitely easy to work on!

You're welcome! Hopefully it is a great machine and you are able to enjoy it. Thanks for watching!

@@3DayWeekend West The Name the part

Also an option. :-)

Very good question, but no, I didn't reach out to them. The Gilomen tuned ECU came with the machine when he got it, so I wouldn't expect any kind of warranty support. To this day I'm still uncertain if the ECU was faulty itself, or perhaps it could have been reprogrammed and been fine. We only had 5 days to figure it out, or he would have missed the next trip. That meant we didn't have time to ship it back, have it reprogrammed or replaced, then sent back. Alba offered an option of sending a tuned ECU out to us next-day (paid for next-day shipping), then we could send the existing ECU back to them later on. That's what we did and he was able to make the trip! It was close though. I put the new ECU in his machine the day before we left! Again, no discredit to Gilomen. The machine ran and felt great up until the failure, and if we had more time, we could have given them the opportunity to work on it. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching and for the comment!

You got me curious so I checked their site and they do offer a free "test and reflash" service. If we weren't so pressed for time, I probably would have gone that route. Maybe it would have been fine, maybe they would have found it to be faulty and we'd have to look at other options. Impossible to know now!

If I had all the parts pre-ordered and didn't need to send the head out for testing / decking, I can get this job done in under a day. Waiting for the head was the longest part. I'd say in the end it was apart for 2 weeks. Hope that helps!

Oof. Yeah, definitely not a cheap failure!. Suspension Armor is definitely the better option in my book! So far so good! Thanks for watching!

My math was wrong in the first one. When I put it in the site it came up with a different value, so I double checked everything and confirmed that I had calculated wrong. 502 was the right one after all. It has been a year and it is still running great!

Yes, it is pretty much the same procedure.

From the clutch side, counter-clockwise. From the stator side, clockwise.

White smoke from the exhaust is a tell-tale sign you have a bad head or head gasket. If you do choose to replace the head gasket, be sure you have the cylinder head hydrotested by a machine shop. I had one that was smoking pretty badly due to a crack in the head and had to get a replacement one. Sorry to hear about your problem!