Timing Belt & Water Pump Replacement - Honda Pilot
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- Опубліковано 20 чер 2018
- This DIY describes the steps involved in replacing the timing belt, water pump, guide and tensioner pulleys performed on a 2012 Honda Pilot. The engine is a J35 series V6. Replacement parts and service steps may also be applied to other Honda and Acura vehicles such as the Acura TL, MDX, RDX, RL RLX and Honda's Accord, Crosstour, Odyssey, Ridgeline and Saturn Vue.
The timing belt service interval is 105,000 miles or 7/8 years...whichever comes first.
Unless you have a powered impact tool used with 19 mm high mass impact socket, removing the harmonic balancer bolt is next to impossible.
The OEM (original equipment manufacturer) parts providers for the timing belt components are Mitsuboshi (timing belt), Aisin (water pump), Koyo (idler and tensioner bearings). If you obtain a timing belt kit from the dealer, the parts in their kit are provided by these manufacturers.
If you have no prior experience replacing a timing belt, expect to spend anywhere between 6 to 8 hours to complete the job.
Replacement of the water pump will release coolant from the engine block. This would be a good time to change out the coolant from the radiator which would constitute a complete fluid exchange.
If you'd like to make a donation to the channel, please follow the link below: paypal.me/HardlyMoving?locale...
Honda Pilot Parts and Specialty Tools:
Timing Belt & Water Pump Component Kit (Good kit … comes with OEM Mitsuboshi Timing Belt, Aisin Water Pump & Koyo Bearings):
amzn.to/2VVgYkz
Honda Long Life Coolant:
amzn.to/2Q0hxIb
19 mm High Mass Harmonic Balancer Bolt Removal Socket:
amzn.to/2O2mEGH
OEMTOOLS High Mass 6 Piece Crank Bolt Socket Set, 6 Pack
amzn.to/2G9ZNpF
DEWALT DW4901 1-Inch Crimped End Wire Brush:
amzn.to/2FeWbBw
Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel:
amzn.to/2OawLJL
M12 Fuel 3/8" Ratchet (Bare Tool)
amzn.to/32abdCW
Powered Impact Tool (not the one I used, but less expensive quality corded version):
amzn.to/2F57ldk
As an Amazon associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for your support!
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Great video! I replaced my Honda Pilot 2010 timing belt 4 years ago. I struggled so much to break loose the crankcase bolt until I bought that special socket and it works like a champ 😊👊!!
Glad it helped!
This convinced me NOT to try this one on our 2013 Honda Pilot. I'll tackle a lot of things but not the timing belt where if I screw something up i'll toast my engine. Props to you guys who do it!
Not hard , just follow steps like anything else
You are a bro for putting this *fantastic* video and information together. Thanks man. Thumbs up on a good 1/2 inch cordless impact.... I can't live without that thing anymore.
Yup ... once you start using that cordless impact driver, you can't live without. Can't imagine a time where I made due without out.
Thanks. We try to make what seems to be a complex job as simple as possible.
Thank You! Very well done. I'm about 50K from doing this job myself on a 2012 vs $1000 at the dealer. Pretty much the same as the Accord but a bit more involved getting to the motor mount for removal. In addition, once the belt is on, tensioner released I'd rotate the engine with a breaker bar at least once if not twice around to make sure the marks are in correct timing.
Thanks for your comment! We'll be doing a TB/WP video pretty soon on a 2004 Acura TL V6 which is much the same as the Pilot ... so stay tuned. On V6 twin cam sprocket engines, you'll have to rotate the engine more than twice if using paint on the timing belt to perform an alignment check. As long as the belt it tight between the cam sprockets and the sprockets match their alignment marks -and- the belt leading from the cam to the crankshaft has no slack and the crankshaft match with the alignment marks, there's no need to do an engine rotation to check the alignment. Moreover, you can also start the car with the TB covers off before buttoning everything back up. Here's where I did it on a Honda Accord I4 and a Camry I4:
ua-cam.com/video/zR6W_gP1bo4/v-deo.htmlua-cam.com/video/ks0ynJxYLnY/v-deo.html
My 2013 accord 3.5 has 86k now. Dealers in Hawaii are insane, 3 choices, all around $1700. Screw that, I'll try it. This is the best vid I've seen hands down, appreciate it. The explanation on setting the belt is great. I figure in a year or so I'll have a go at it.
Wow! $1,700!!!??? Mind blowing! Believe it or not, the mechanic will only make around $200 for his work.
@@hardlymovingpro yeah, total rip. I really think I can do this with proper prep, patience and attention to detail. Just need to decide if I want to invest in a Milwaukee impact, try a cheaper corded or go the breaker/cheater bar way with the special socket.
@@alohawg You can get away with using a cheapo ac electric impact gun. You'll definitely need the 19 mm high mass impact socket to get the crank pulley bolt off. The rest of the job you can get away with using hand tools. I get the job done faster and easier using my electric ratchet tools.
@@hardlymovingpro good deal, yeah I was looking at this earlier. www.harborfreight.com/85-amp-corded-12-in-heavy-duty-extreme-torque-impact-wrench-64120.html
The socket and special tool can be gotten together on Amazon under $30. Thanks again, brother, good stuff.
@@alohawg Yea ... the harborfreight would work just fine.
Recently did this work on the Wifey’s 06 Ody. Who ever performed the timing belt before stripped the engine motor mount bolt. Took forever and a day to back out the bolt with lots of patience and WD40. Once removed, tapped and dressed the mount and bolt. Dealer wanted over $200 just for the aluminum mount. No way Jose! To much $$$ already spent on OEM parts...Great video, thanks...
Good job and thanks! Next time think about taking a trip to the salvage yard to get needed parts.
Your method worked great! Thank you
Glad you liked it!
Excellent! Thank you SO much for sharing!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for your post!
This was awesome, and much appreciated.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Good video thank you
Ty for making this alot of good information 👍
No problem 👍
Hello i really interested on your video installing new water pump and belt. Yoi made so easy buddy.. good job.
Thanks!
Very helpful video, for both a 2012 Pilot and a 2005 Pilot. Thanks!
Appreciate your comment! Glad you found the video useful.
Dude, you need the weighted 19mm socket specifically designed to remove that crank bolt. Takes it off with one good buzz from the impact.
You're 100% correct and thanks for your comment. You just didn't watch the video to the 1:52 minute mark where I used the 19 mm high mass socket. I wanted to show people what it's like NOT to have a high mass (weighted) impact socket.
@@hardlymovingpro 🤣🤣🤣 thanks brother. I laugh at how people comment before fully watching. So ready to speak lol
@@WingoTribe704 Yup ... is that amazing or basic human nature. See something wrong then spend time to comment immediately rather than watching the rest of the video. Probably gave me a thumbs down too.
I had the timing belt fail on my '09, so tackling it myself, lot of money being sunk into tools I'm only ever going to use one time...but still cheaper then taking it to a shop.
I hear ya! Only thing you have to worry about is if any of the valves are bent. If so, you'll have to remove the cylinder heads and bring it to an automotive machine shop to get the heads worked on.
How many miles were on your Pilot? Manufacturer recommends replacing at 107k
My silly butt thought I was getting a new Ram and didn't put the money in it and now I'm at 140k with knocking noise. Not sure if it's the hydraulic tensioner or a rod but I do have a visible leak around the valve cover gasket on that same side as the timing belt. Anyways, gonna replace the timing belt and water pump right now because I'm overdue and hopefully that noise goes away. 😁🤞🏽
I just found and watched this video today, as I am considering doing this job on my 2012 Pilot.Thanks for the great instructions! My only concern is torquing the harmonic balancer bolt correctly. All other videos show this step being done on a lift, using a balancer holder tool and plenty of room to swing a torque wrench underneath. I will be doing this on the ground as you did. The recommended procedure I've seen is, torque to 47 ft/lbs then tighten an additional 60 degrees. I'm not sure this can easily be done sitting on the ground, working in the fender well using a 1/2" torque wrench. How did you accomplish this step?
I just torque down the balancer bolt with a high torque electric impact gun. The bolt will not come loose.
Thanks so much. I just subscribed your channel few weeks ago. I watched quite a lot from there. I liked the way you use chain wrench in other videos and ordered one for me. As part of this video, I myself done pilot timing belt change a week ago, one thing i struggled for 2 hours is putting the new belt back. I see lot of slack between crank to camshaft. then right camshaft to left camshaft with water pump in middle. You marked the old belt with paint and transferred it to new belt, very good idea i should have watched your before. question is you move crank pulley clockwise one notch to right, then at times you turn crank pulley 2 notch to the left .. didnot understand this, because when you fit the belt with crank to camshaft(right) and when you turn crank will not your timing on right cam will also shift, you also said turn crank 2 nothc to left again will not this affect timing on both the cam.. can you please explain in detail, i am sure i am missing something, so next time i wont spend 2 hours if i understand your trick. Thanks again. let me know if i want to contribute some dollar to your channel.
It's your choice if you want to move the crank or camshaft pulley to ease mounting of the belt. If you move either one towards each other (1 or 2 cogs) you're creating slack to make the mounting easier. When you re-position what your moved (crank or cam pulley) after the belt installation to TDC, and if your used your paint marks, everything should line up with no belt slack.
@@hardlymovingpro I may have missed it, but did you thread the battery clamp bolt to hold the timing belt adjuster? Also install the idler pulley bolt loosely so the pulley can move but not fall off? Curious if these steps would make it easier to put the belt on, and not have to mess with moving the cams/crankshaft. I'm a newb DIY, and read these steps in the Haynes manual. Great video, btw. Thanks!
Threading the battery clamp bolt is a technique used to keep the belt tensioner pin locked before removing the belt. I prefer to press down and compress the tensioner pin back down in a vice and lock it in place with a metal pin (aka granade pin from a previous TB job or a drill bit). This was shown in the video. The tensioner exists on the left side of the engine...the side with the most slack. Mounting of the belt is on the right side where there's no slack. You make the slack by turning either the crank or cam into each other, mount the belt and turn the crank or cam back to its TDC position. After the belt has been installed on the right side, the left cam may have to turned towards the right cam to mount the belt. When both cams have the belt mounted, the left side belt mounting is easy ... there's plenty of slack. The starting point of the belt installation starts at the crankshaft. It's up to you if want to mount the belt starting from the left cam or the right cam. It doesn't matter. Use paint marks to verify the cam and crank positions. The details I'm providing you is technique not provided in typical repair manuals. All they tell you is to mount the belt.
@@hardlymovingpro Wow, thanks for the quick reply, much appreciated. I'll give your technique a try. Thanks again!
Great video and great step by step written directions on your site. Do you believe this would be the same, or similar enough to follow, on a 2001 Acura Cl Premium?
Thanks! I think the Acura may be easier. May not have all that electrical stuff I had removed to get to the side motor mount on the Pilot. Have a friend with a late model MDX. None of that electrical stuff is in the way.
Hardly Moving Productions Thanks!
No problem.
This video is amazing in so many ways!! You can truly tell and see your professionalism here as you work your way through all these parts.
I found your channel and video as I am doing research now in hopes to understand what all I need for a 2012 Odyssey 100k maintenance. If possible, can you confirm what I am missing? Forgive me as I am unaware of the actual names.
Timing belt
Hydraulic tensioner
Water pump
Spark plugs
Is there anything else I should consider while I am at? I plan to have this done locally and not at the dealer but would like to shop around for OEM parts where possible. I believe in paying for quality parts and labor, but $1900 out the door seems a bit high at the dealership.
Thank you!
Sorry for the late response ... missed your post. Idler pulley is missing but if you got a kit, it should be in there. If possible, you should shot of an OEM Aisin kit. They're high quality but expensive.
Hey there sir, I was wondering if you could give some advice on my upcoming project, it's my sons 1991 acura legend v6 it needs an water pump replacement and while we're at it we gonna replace timing belt and tensioners too,what kit do you recommend we get that it would at least last 100k miles ... Thanks
Dayco is a big OEM parts supplier for the auto industry. Here's a link to the kit advertised on Amazon:
amzn.to/2YZurJB
You can also go with CRP Industries. Here's the link:
amzn.to/2JQqEe8
For myself, I would install OEM timing belt. Hopefully made in Japan, not Mexico
The Japanese belt makers are Bando and Mitsuboshi ... although I have changed OEM belts on Honda's with the Gates logo on it. Continental is a good European brand. Korean TB kits are also pretty good. The good domestic belt makers are Dayco and Gates. I've seen Gates belts last over 100k miles. It's all about the belt installation. Unless the engine is designed with a dynamic belt tensioner, it can get a little tricky trying set the belt to the optimum tension. Too tight and the engine makes noise and stresses the idler and tensioner bearings; too loose and the belt slaps against the TB cover and could eventually snap over time.
Im buying a 2012-15 pilot soon. Few questions: is this an interference engine so if the belt breaks the engine gets damaged? If I attempt to do this job how long does it normally take 4-5hr? Out of 1-10 what level of difficulty would you say? Thanks for the video. I did 1 timing belt in my life on a 97 civic 1.6 yrs ago.
The Pilot 3.5L engine is an interference engine. With no prior experience and you are just replacing the timing belt and pulleys, it should be about 5 to 6 hours. Add another hour for the water pump. If you take the parts off and put them in sequential order, have the tools, and follow the video it should be straightforward.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you
Hey so at the end to put the timing belt tensioner you said turn clockwise. I assume once you line it back up you release the tensioner correct
That's correct. Clock wise will move the slack to the left where the tensioner goes
I have one more question please, i thought of changing crank seal, but the challenge i found was removing the woodruf key, it is not coming out at all, i hammered little bit but eventually left it like that, i dont want to damage crank, i used chisel and slight hammered but no luck, what you recommend to remove stubburn crank key(woodruf key)..
There should be no reason to remove the woodruf key. If the crank pulley gear is stuck, you should use a pulley removal tool.
@@hardlymovingpro hi, to change crankshaft front seal, can i remove crank gear(smaller one) without removing woodruf key. i thought u take woodruf key out then the small crank pulley out then change the crank seal.
@@hardlymovingpro hi, i am able to remove crankk pullye, it is next small crank sprocket pulley onn which timing belt rides NOT serpentine belt, that is the pulley i want to remove to change crank seal. which i believe have to remove woodruf key which is stuck and it wont come out
You should not have any issues removing the key. If it is stuck, something is wrong. The key should move freely and should be removed easily once you remove the harmonic balancer.
Do you have a video showing replacing cam/crankshaft seals on J series engines? How often should they be replaced? Is there any chance that one might turn the pulleys while trying to remove the seals and mess up big time? Thanks.
Haven't experienced Honda engines with worn out camshaft seals very much. Only did one a few month ago on a I4 F series.
Crankshaft seals should ideally be replaced along with re-sealing the oil pump at the time you are doing TB (because it has to be removed for that, along with the oil pan). As for camshaft seals, it is a universally accepted opinion among Honda specialists that you should not touch the old seals UNLESS they are leaking.
Never encountered a worn out crankshaft seal on a Honda engine. Even with over 200k miles.
just had timing belt replaced with the kit now steering wheel feels tough so could it be air ?
The timing belt or the accessory belt? Because the accessory belt drives the power steering pump. Check the fluid level in the power steering reservoir.
@@hardlymovingpro timing done but hoses for power steering where disconnected to make room im asking is there possibility that it might have air fluid is good topped up
Even if air got into the lines, the air will eventually work its way out to the reservoir.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks for the response
Is it easy to change the spark plugs during the process of changing out the timing belt and water pump?
Removal and replacement of the spark plugs is unrelated to performing a TB replacement; however, removal of the plugs does make it easier to rotate the engine since there's no compression pressure to overcome.
Talk to Bundy's Garage, his Gates water pump failed on his 2003 TL, engine got out of time and bent the valves. Many reviews of leaking or failed Chinese Gates water pump on Amazon also. OEM pump should be used.
I tend to agree which is why my preference is Aisin water pumps which is a OEM provider for Toyota and Honda. Also, what you think is a Gates water pump may not be Gates if purchased through Amazon. It appears that Amazon is a dumping ground for cheap Chinese knock offs that is extremely difficult to detect the difference. So I would not be too quick to assume Gates makes poor quality water pumps.
Would the process be the same for a 2015 Honda Pilot or are there substantial differences?
Should be the same once you able to access the time belt covers.
Did you discount the battery for this job, like when computer (sub) got disconnected and removed?? Thanks
Not necessary if the ignition is off.
by accident timing belt broke, how can I re-aline the timing belt correctly? thanks.
Did the belt brake while the engine was running?
Please help! I've done ALL the steps but having major hard time with the crank shaft pulley nut.. ive got the special 19 socket but my dewalt only offer 300 pounds off tork... any suggestions
impact gun...
Try applying some heat on the pulley nut head with a propane torch. Not red hot. Then attempt to torque it loose.
Do I have to remove my radiator fans for this job?
Nope. These are transverse mounted engines that face the fender.
Why not drain the radiator before taking the water pump out? Also, is the process similar for a 2007 Pilot?
Removing the water pump results in coolant coming out of the engine block. Draining the radiator does not remove coolant from the block. I only drain the radiator if the customer wants a complete coolant fluid exchange. Yes...the process is almost identical for a 2007 Pilot. The timing belt and pulley layout if virtually identical. Thanks for your question and good luck with the job!
@@hardlymovingpro you could drill a hole in the water pump and drain it cleanly :-)
Would not recommend it. Also, unless you have a right angle drill, how's there enough room to drill a hole? And after you drill the hole, how do you control the coolant flow?
@@hardlymovingpro Catching fluid is not an issue. if the hole is fairly small, just direct stream into a funnel with a hose attached. And when flow slow down, use rag between funnel and engine. On the new pump, can tread a new hole so, can drain "next time"
You can do what you want but I wouldn't. I bought a large plastic cement mix container at Home Depot to capture my coolant. Its both large and deep and can hold a lot of coolant. Cost me around $7.
This should.be illegal how they make em like this
How long of a process is this?
Around 3 hrs for me
Did you... reuse the old hydraulic tensioner? :-O
That's correct.
hello group, can anyone provide me the torque values on a 2011 Honda Pilot 3.5 engine for the installation of the water pump kit?
Make the 10 mm water pump mounting bolts hand tight using the 1/4" ratchet wrench. Using anything bigger might sear off the bolt heads.
I went through 3 breaker bars..Before I got that socket. And still needed a torch to break that loctite....Honda must think that bolt is coming off with 200lbs applied
I'm guessing you're talking about the harmonic balancer bolt?
hi is it reverse thread ?? thanks
No reverse threads
Toyota timing belts jobs seem so much easier
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At 5:14 OUCH!!
which milwaukee impact wrench was that? looks like an old model.
Which one? I'm using two.
@@hardlymovingpro which one did you use to remove the crank bolt?
@@jcontradiction amzn.to/33MtHLi
Will the kit work for a 2nd gen tl from 2002?
Nope. 2004 started a new design ... but I'll find a compatible kit for you.
@@hardlymovingpro aw shoot, should've waited for your response. I'll go cancel my amazon order haha
Here's the link to the OEM Parts ... it fits the TL from 2000 to 2003: Aisin Water Pump, Mitsuboshi Timing Belt & believe Koyo Pulleys. These are all OEM Japanese parts ... just like the dealership: amzn.to/34nsrhB
@@hardlymovingpro you're the man! Thanks so much. Know any links for the cam and crank seals?
If it were a Toyota, I'd recommend replacing the crank and cam seals. But on the Honda's I've worked on with high mileage, they don't seem to wear out and leak.
Is this same for 2004 pilot?
Should be pretty much the same.
What is the purpose of marking the belt?
Helps to install the belt if you're not sure the belt is off a cog.
To make sure you install the new one exactly how the old one was. That way when all markings align, you have a peace of mind that the timing is correct. Usually done by DIYers as professionals do not mark the belts as they are doing hundreds of TB jobs and perfected it.
My goodness you have to remove so many parts just for access it looks like a nightmare
As strange as it may sound, this is one of my easier repairs. Check out the Lexus RX300 Evaporator/Heater Core replacement. I think that may change your perspective.
Yup nightmare 🗡️🗡️ have to take apart entire engine just to get oil change.. bastard 🙈😭
Yep. But you only need to do it every 100K miles or 7 years, so not big of a deal.
Crank pulley nut 180 ftlbs.
That's about right ... but takes more to get it off.
Day time
I've always wondered why Honda insists on interference engines with rubber timing belts. Toyota has been making comparable engines that are non-interference, even with variable valve timing for years.
As we all know, you break a timing belt with a non-interference engine, all it does is strand you. You get towed, you get a new one put on, set the engine timing, and you're back in business.
An interference engine, it breaks, valves are bent and engine is destroyed.
Surely Honda can design an build a non-interference engine.
Think the newer engines use chains. But the belt drive is both durable and reliable.
TB is cheaper and quieter. Toyota has also used TB in their V6 engines. As for non interference engine, it simply is not as effective and powerful as the V one.
Also less centrifigal mass to rob horsepower
How much was this job
On the internet, people are quoting prices that shops charge anywhere between $800 to $1200 +.
My water pump just went out and now I see what I have to do to fix it...... and I'm so screwed
Take it slow, step by step and you can do it yourself.
Considering that it will cost me at the minimum $430 for a shop to do it, I'm genuinely considering doing it myself. I just have to find someone who has the tools that is willing to help me out
@@omgimissed84 Never seen a price quote of around $430. More like $800 to $1,200. If going through the trouble of replacing the pump, might as well replace the belt the pulleys.
You're right. never seen a price quote of $430 ... especially on a V6.
Disconnect battery first?
Doesn't matter.
@@hardlymovingpro ummm ok
May have over torque it
Lucky you didn’t break the starter
The starter gear is pretty tough. No longer have a need to do bump starts to get the pulley bolt off. My new Milwaukee M18 1/2" impact tool puts out over 1,200 lbs of torque and combined with the Leslie high mass impact socket, the pulley bolt spins right off!
Ok people if you want to do the old school method to remove a pulley bolt, DO NOT be whoever was in that car and hold on the starter my goodness. You BUMP it. A few rapid quick bumps will release that bolt. Did it on my 04 Acura MDX, 4 quick semi- rapid bumps and came off like a charm. NEVER hold into the key like the way they did it. Surefire way to ruin a starter and possibly a flywheel.
If you watched the whole video, I removed the pulley bolt with a high mass 19 mm Leslie impact socket with a powered impact tool. The bump start method of releasing crank pulley bolts on Honda's generally does not work. If it worked for you, consider yourself fortunate.
The Honda Pilot we have (2012), you don't have an opportunity to 'bump' the starter. When you twist the key to start, it decides how long the starter is spinning.
Yup nightmare 🗡️🗡️ have to take apart entire engine just to get oil change.. who ever design this bastards 🙈😭
Your need a 19mm balancer socket, standard socket won't work.
You are correct. At the 1:51 time mark I talk about using a high mass 19 mm impact socket to take off the harmonic balancer bolt. It has never let me down!
HOU MACH THES COSTS WED PARTS . AND LAVOR.GOOD JOb.
Between $900 - $1,800.
Seems to me the hardest part of the job is getting the crank pulley off
Yes it is. Highly recommend you have a powered impact driver (air or electric) with a high mass 19 mm impact socket.
Hardly Moving Productions will do... what electric impact would you recommend?
If you don't do this type of work very often, get yourself an inexpensive a/c powered electric impact driver sold through Northern Tool or Harbor Freight. They cost between $50 to $100. I own Milwaukee 18v drivers ($300 +) because I get a lot of parts off cars at the salvage yard and there are no a/c power supplies to plug into.
Hardly Moving Productions I saw a kid use a harbor freight one for around 130 with the special socket... worked well... thanks for the tips!!! Merry Christmas 🎁
Hey that's great! That high mass impact socket is worth it! And Merry Christmas too you!
that crankshaft bolt is way to tight if you can get that bolt off honda why it makes no since took me all day to do timeing belt
Know that feeling! That's why I use a high torque impact gun with a high mass impact socket like what I used in the video.
i recently change my in a honda pilot 2011. i paid 1500
That's about right for a dealership price.
Why mark the belt? If your marks are right you'll be fine, but good video
It's for the guys who've never done a timing belt replacement and aren't sure they have everything in alignment.
@@hardlymovingpro ya I hear you
That's simply additional peace of mind for a DIYer that the belt is installed correctly.
Damn that crank bolt gave you hell! lol. I actually bought a 3/4" just because if this bolt! What a PITA! Here's the gun i use. ua-cam.com/video/m054LFfJm6Q/v-deo.html
Saw the video. That guy really likes his Big Bertha air gun. The problem is, it's not portable. My Milwaukee puts out around 400 lbs of torque and combined with the 19 mm heavy mass socket, it did the trick.
@@hardlymovingpro that's awesome, I have to upgrade my electric impact. Right now I have a Kobalt. But it's not that great. and "that guy" is me! haha. Great video by the way!
Word to the Wise:
"Listen to what the Man Says."
I've known "Mechanics" who are Stubborn, who will sit there all day, trying to Break Free That Honda Crank Bolt.
And that Damn Bolt will not come Lose.
Should you be lucky enough, to have a good Air Compressor, just buy the Lisle #77080 19 MM Harmonic Balancer Socket from Amazon.com for about $25 bucks/ shipped asap.
(It will save Time and Headaches)
Should you not have access to an Air Compressor or Air Impact, just go to your Nearest Home Depot and rent a Milwaukee 1/2 Drive 2767-20 M18 Fuel Impact Wrench. You'll been quicker.
(Assuming, you have ordered the Lisle 19MM #77080 Socket.
"Easy Peecy-Japanisee."
Have a Nice day. 😊
No wonder pilot is not successfull coz its got tough maintenance
Not that much tougher than a Toyota.
LOL. This is a typical Honda V6 TB job that is applicable to hundred other cars as well, Honda and other V6s alike.
Not good
Need more attention
Sorry you think so.