I just found your videos--thank you for all you have recorded. I've been watching every day after work for the past week. I live in the States--and finding some of the products you use is not easy--especially now with supply chain shortages. I'm on the Canadian border but the border is essentially closed. Any guidance that you or your fans could provide would be greatly appreciated. I had a roof leak. I had to fix it my self (no one would come out during pandemic for a "small" job). I drilled the laundry room ceiling to drain the leak. I think the roof is OK now but certainly am not a pro. The finish coat of plaster loosened in a small area 25 cm by 30 cm and could not be saved. I anchored the surrounding finish coat by drilling/pushing in construction adhesive. The "scratch" coat of plaster is sound. I plan to patch the area with durabond (powdered hard filler) coat after preparing the scratch coat a concrete adhesive (quikrete, PVA) that has to stay damp. There are water stains and some hairline cracks that are sound (barely visible--less than 1mm). I don't want to dig them out if possible but also don't want them to show through the paint. Here in the states, paint suppliers urge use of the "original Zinsser" red label which is oil based to prime water and smoke stains--not BIN. I used the original to prime a plaster repair before and used an acrylic paint (SICO premium MATT, Quebec, CA) for the finish coat. The paint (including primer) loosened 6-7 years later over what probably were "cold spots" from uneven wall insulation. I am at bare plaster now for the whole ceiling (70 year old oil primer that was brittle). The water stains are ugly. I used dilute bleach for any possible mold. What do you think would be best? The oil original on the stains? the 123 of this video? diluted PVA (before or after)? Getting PVA in the States typically means buying wood glue. Thank you for any suggestions that you or your fans to give.
Zinsser paints are really good, but try using Johnstone’s stain away tintable emulsion. It covers nicotine stains in two coats, no need for a primer sealer.
Been using 123 thanks to your vids. This & BiN are an absolute joy to use. So chuffed with the results I've achieved. Still the No.1 P&D channel lads 👍👍 Many thanks
Sorry if you have covered this. Will this paint seal/encapsulate lead paint? 1950s house original internal door frames and skirts. Some chips from furniture moving over the years. I don’t want to sand in case lead present in the deep layers. TIA
For various reasons, I used 123 over my multifinish walls after a mist coat. It peeled off with masking tape that I used to create a neat, sealant line. I have used it on other walls and if I try the thumbnail test that can bring it off. In the end I painted too many walls to sand back down (I just addressed the main culprit). I live in fear that if the emulsion gets knocked, it will start a process of the 123 peeling. I have, since, read many stories like mine about 123. I contacted Zinnser but they had no answers. I can't be the only person to contact them about this adhering matter.
@@PaintingandDecorating I'm just hoping it holds. The 123 seems to dry like a slightly muted satin emulsion finish. And it's certainly not for sanding down unless you want to get rid of it. Thanks for the reply by the way.
I have always used sugar soap to wash walls ready for painting, rather than general soapy water like you used. Does it matter? Obviously fairy liquid is a lot cheaper so I'd prefer that but I was told in my early days not to use detergent.
Can I ask do you work full time? I mean do you have enough work to keep you going? Do you advertise at all? I’m just trying to get in to painting for a living and I’m finding it hard to get consistent work. Thanks
Yes full-time.. sometimes you may have a few weeks slack... Certain times of year.. cheap prices and good work that's what gets you work and recommendations. Then build up from that... People want reasonable prices.. it's up to you how hard you work.. estimate a price do long hours you make money. It's a living..
Hi mate, thanks for the video. I am about to paint a bare plaster bathroom, any advice on what to use, I am thinking about using the Bullseye 123. Thank you
Hi there. I'm currently using the 123 paint and it foamed up a little bit. I think it was over the polyfilla. Can I just sand it and go over it again? Worried it's going to peel. Thank you
Question for you pal. When I decorate and rake out the cracks and fill them but the filler takes 3-4 coats to block out the scarring on the wall. I’ve used Zinzer 123 to prime them first it’s better then BIN because BIN just flashes through. Is there any other method I can use to block out the scarring where I have filled? Some people have said use acrylic eggshell. I’ve used your mixing the paint and filler method is that what you use it for?
Hi there, hope you don’t mind me asking your advice… we’ve recently had our bathroom done and the decorator has applied a valspar Matt base c to the walls… but the adhesion is really poor the slightest scrape and it peels/scrapes off… do you know why this could be? Should they have sanded the finish underneath (I think it was silk) or applied some sort of sealant? Thanks in advance
He must of used the cheap Valspar which is poor quality... Possible not preped the wall correct... Trade Valspar.. is best. But without seeing it's difficult to say . Thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating hi just applied zinser 123 to a bathroom fire door, sanded varnish away ,dusted then rolled on. But it has turned yellow/ white is this normal.? Any idea. Grate video 👍
Could you give me some advice on radiators? I keyed and painted a rad using Hammerite Rad paint (white gloss, oil based) which has anti yellowing. I did 2 coats with a light key in between, 8 or so hours apart, and it looked amazing and perfect white, no streaks. Rads were off for 3 days. After about a week they started yellowing. After a few more weeks they may as well be cream/yellow. What should I do from here? Different paint? BIN or 123 first? Thanks for your videos! They have basically given me the courage to redecorate my whole house!
Zinsser Permawhite satin. I've done all my woodwork and radiators. Not as easy to apply as oil based but pretty good and no sign of yellowing after several years.
Radiators were never designed to be painted they are a sprayed finish, wash them down, scrape and rub down any loose or flaking paint, prime or undercoat and always finish in waterbased paint. Oil base paint will yellow much quicker plus it's easy to give a quick freshen up coat with waterbased paint. Try and stick to zinsser products.
@@michelleslockdown if the finish is using a roller.. then the Zinsser 123 should be applied using a roller.. also allow it to fully dry for 24 hrs.. before making a decision.. thanks
Excellent! 👏👏👏Thank you.
@@JD-hy2pg welcome thanks
As always, so much to learn watching your methods - have used Zinsser, agree how good it is.
Thank you..
Nice even over
I just found your videos--thank you for all you have recorded. I've been watching every day after work for the past week.
I live in the States--and finding some of the products you use is not easy--especially now with supply chain shortages. I'm on the Canadian border but the border is essentially closed. Any guidance that you or your fans could provide would be greatly appreciated.
I had a roof leak. I had to fix it my self (no one would come out during pandemic for a "small" job). I drilled the laundry room ceiling to drain the leak. I think the roof is OK now but certainly am not a pro. The finish coat of plaster loosened in a small area 25 cm by 30 cm and could not be saved. I anchored the surrounding finish coat by drilling/pushing in construction adhesive. The "scratch" coat of plaster is sound. I plan to patch the area with durabond (powdered hard filler) coat after preparing the scratch coat a concrete adhesive (quikrete, PVA) that has to stay damp.
There are water stains and some hairline cracks that are sound (barely visible--less than 1mm). I don't want to dig them out if possible but also don't want them to show through the paint.
Here in the states, paint suppliers urge use of the "original Zinsser" red label which is oil based to prime water and smoke stains--not BIN. I used the original to prime a plaster repair before and used an acrylic paint (SICO premium MATT, Quebec, CA) for the finish coat. The paint (including primer) loosened 6-7 years later over what probably were "cold spots" from uneven wall insulation.
I am at bare plaster now for the whole ceiling (70 year old oil primer that was brittle). The water stains are ugly. I used dilute bleach for any possible mold.
What do you think would be best? The oil original on the stains? the 123 of this video? diluted PVA (before or after)? Getting PVA in the States typically means buying wood glue.
Thank you for any suggestions that you or your fans to give.
Great vid as always and your commitment to your workmanships is always tops.
Thank you.
Zinsser paints are really good, but try using Johnstone’s stain away tintable emulsion. It covers nicotine stains in two coats, no need for a primer sealer.
You should be in a college teaching your trade, a lot of apprentices would benefit from your skill & knowledge!!
Thank you..
Nearly £60 a tin. Good stuff though . Easy to work with.
Been using 123 thanks to your vids. This & BiN are an absolute joy to use. So chuffed with the results I've achieved. Still the No.1 P&D channel lads 👍👍 Many thanks
Thank you from both of us. 👍
I always watch your videos keep em comein
Thank you.. plenty more to come.
Sorry if you have covered this. Will this paint seal/encapsulate lead paint? 1950s house original internal door frames and skirts. Some chips from furniture moving over the years. I don’t want to sand in case lead present in the deep layers. TIA
Yes perfect for this.. thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating Brilliant. Thank you for the reply 👍🏻
For various reasons, I used 123 over my multifinish walls after a mist coat. It peeled off with masking tape that I used to create a neat, sealant line. I have used it on other walls and if I try the thumbnail test that can bring it off. In the end I painted too many walls to sand back down (I just addressed the main culprit). I live in fear that if the emulsion gets knocked, it will start a process of the 123 peeling. I have, since, read many stories like mine about 123. I contacted Zinnser but they had no answers. I can't be the only person to contact them about this adhering matter.
If it peeled off to bare plaster then your mist coat failed, not the 123.
@@PaintingandDecorating No, it peeled off to the mist coat.
@@PaintingandDecorating I'm just hoping it holds. The 123 seems to dry like a slightly muted satin emulsion finish. And it's certainly not for sanding down unless you want to get rid of it. Thanks for the reply by the way.
I have always used sugar soap to wash walls ready for painting, rather than general soapy water like you used. Does it matter? Obviously fairy liquid is a lot cheaper so I'd prefer that but I was told in my early days not to use detergent.
small amount of washing up liquid is okay wipe and dry..thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating In that case, more sugar soap for me. Cheers.
Can I ask do you work full time? I mean do you have enough work to keep you going? Do you advertise at all? I’m just trying to get in to painting for a living and I’m finding it hard to get consistent work. Thanks
Yes full-time.. sometimes you may have a few weeks slack... Certain times of year.. cheap prices and good work that's what gets you work and recommendations. Then build up from that... People want reasonable prices.. it's up to you how hard you work.. estimate a price do long hours you make money. It's a living..
Pro 👍
Thank you.
Hi mate, thanks for the video. I am about to paint a bare plaster bathroom, any advice on what to use, I am thinking about using the Bullseye 123. Thank you
Great vid, as always. just 1 question do you regularly use the 9" roller? I've generally used 12" or 15" many thanks
Who uses 9' anymore unless you're diy'ing
These guys are great decorators but a bit stuck in their ways with equipment.
You say that, but where do you wash out a massive roller?
@@teckelteckels2730 same place i wash all my rollers. at home in the washing machine 👍
👍👍
Thanks
thanks again !!
thank you.
Hi there. I'm currently using the 123 paint and it foamed up a little bit. I think it was over the polyfilla. Can I just sand it and go over it again? Worried it's going to peel.
Thank you
Yes allow to dry fully first.. then sand. Always can be small problems like this.. thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating thank you
Question for you pal. When I decorate and rake out the cracks and fill them but the filler takes 3-4 coats to block out the scarring on the wall. I’ve used Zinzer 123 to prime them first it’s better then BIN because BIN just flashes through. Is there any other method I can use to block out the scarring where I have filled? Some people have said use acrylic eggshell. I’ve used your mixing the paint and filler method is that what you use it for?
Great video as always, can I ask will you use an oil based topcoat over the 123?
Thanks and no all water based finish on this job.. thanks
Hi there, hope you don’t mind me asking your advice… we’ve recently had our bathroom done and the decorator has applied a valspar Matt base c to the walls… but the adhesion is really poor the slightest scrape and it peels/scrapes off… do you know why this could be? Should they have sanded the finish underneath (I think it was silk) or applied some sort of sealant? Thanks in advance
He must of used the cheap Valspar which is poor quality... Possible not preped the wall correct... Trade Valspar.. is best. But without seeing it's difficult to say . Thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating hi just applied zinser 123 to a bathroom fire door, sanded varnish away ,dusted then rolled on.
But it has turned yellow/ white is this normal.? Any idea. Grate video 👍
Could you give me some advice on radiators? I keyed and painted a rad using Hammerite Rad paint (white gloss, oil based) which has anti yellowing. I did 2 coats with a light key in between, 8 or so hours apart, and it looked amazing and perfect white, no streaks. Rads were off for 3 days. After about a week they started yellowing. After a few more weeks they may as well be cream/yellow. What should I do from here? Different paint? BIN or 123 first? Thanks for your videos! They have basically given me the courage to redecorate my whole house!
Use a radiator enamel or switch to a tried and tested water based system imo
Zinsser Permawhite satin. I've done all my woodwork and radiators. Not as easy to apply as oil based but pretty good and no sign of yellowing after several years.
@@markrowland5393 Really good stuff but i find it really thin to apply , too pissy , just wish it had a bit more body.
Radiators were never designed to be painted they are a sprayed finish, wash them down, scrape and rub down any loose or flaking paint, prime or undercoat and always finish in waterbased paint. Oil base paint will yellow much quicker plus it's easy to give a quick freshen up coat with waterbased paint. Try and stick to zinsser products.
@@markrowland5393 will give this a go! Recommend anything prior to applying? Other than a light key and clean?
witch finish the radiator is going to be
Not sure yet may be Allcoat white satin. Thanks
I just used this on parts of ceiling now it’s shinny in them parts 🙈
Yes it's not a Matt finish.. and really is only a primer.. and always needs a top coat.. thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating I’ve put Matt coat over but still shining. Should I sand ? Thanks for help
@@michelleslockdown if the finish is using a roller.. then the Zinsser 123 should be applied using a roller.. also allow it to fully dry for 24 hrs.. before making a decision.. thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating thanks it’s looking better already.
What you using for top coat mate?
Was that Zinsser that you rolled onto the ceiling/walls or the main paint?
Yes Zinsser...
Great stuff.
Thanks
Zinsser ought to sponsor your videos with all that promoting you do for them
Yes they should... Will be checking out more materials from others to balance.. thanks
Can you use the Zinsser 123 straight onto a previous gloss finish?
Always key your gloss coat finish.
Always best to to lightly sand anything they may be rough or gloss finish.. all surfaces should be clean first. Thanks.
Did you only use a 2 and half litre for all that mate? 😀
3 litres about... went a long way. thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating thanks for reply mate 😀😀