Thank you! We were able to do this with a 1/4 thick sheet for a large (4x6') double-pane window facing traffic. Cut sound down about 90% for about $240. Going to do our smaller back windows now.
Best tip is measure window with a laser. Also if you still have a gap, i found an expandable insulation that goes up to 1 inch. Get extra suction cup pulls and leave in the room in case of fire so insert can be removed quickly
Thanks for the info! I also plan to use 1/4 inch acrylic. Can you share what type of insulation you used? Were you able to find a product that was 1/4 wide to match the acrylic sheet?
I followed your directions and it turned out perfectly. Very nice video. The only thing I did differently was that I used 1/4" acrylic, but this was fine because the sticky part of the window sealing strip is actually 1/4" wide. I got a very snug fit, no worries of it falling out. I actually have to use the window glass suction cup I had to remove it. Edit: For anyone who is interested, I got my acrylic from Estreetplastics. They got the specs spot on.
I followed this tutorial as an alternative to indow inserts. I had a local acrylic plastics manufacturer cut them for me. I used 1/2" cast acrylic. I used the same MD rubber silicone for the edge that's in the video and filled any remaining gaps with Green Glue sound sealant. The noise reduction was substantial, measured using my phone it went from about 56-58db to 49-50db. It's not a magical amount of sound reduction but it was definitely substantial to the point I found it worthwhile for our master room that's next to a road. don't expect to be able to take these on and off to open windows, they are quite heavy and difficult to remove, but they can definitely be taken off in case of emergency that you need to jump out of your window or something.
Love it, DIY! Found one company for window inserts that wanted around 350 per window, so I looked up a plastics store and got 2 windows cut for around 300 and the rubber is 8 bucks a pack.
Just finished doing a larger window in my office with this information. I didn't really need to make any alterations to the formula and it cut out the incessant highway road noise pretty noticeably. Thanks for posting this vid!
The standard Indow brand inserts are only 1/8" thick acrylic - their expensive acoustic grade is 1/4", so your 3/8" is quite an upgrade, thickness is especially good for sound insulation as you have seen. Price should be substantially lower if you buy the 1/8 acrylic sheet which is probably fine for many people trying to cut cost - weather-stripping type with that TBD.
I've seen many of these videos (I hope to make the plunge this year) - people typically say 1/8" is enough to see the reduction in condensation, removal of drafts, etc. But if you want sound proofing, thicker is better.
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" it actually Block outside Noise coming from Windows. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
Hey! Thanks for posting this - it is very straight forward. Where do you recommend buying plexiglass? If you know of any good places online or in-stores.
Hi, thanks for this great DIY idea. I'm trying to do the same to my window. But just wondering, can you easily take the inserts off during the day to be able to open the window?
I did one 1/4" thick, reduced a lot higher frequency outside noise, but didn't affect much the lower frequency sounds, eg. engines and tire on asphalt.
If the window is already leaky or has a draft, does the dead air space even matter in that case? We also have blinds and dont have much room for extra dead air space.
I would also suggest taking into account the measurement of the edge of the window opening where you will be inserting the window frame. It could be crooked and slanted inwards, causing difficulty inserting the DIY window insert if you only gave 1/4 inch clearance to fit it (plus 1/4 inch for the compressed weatherstrip, basically making it 0 inches clearance), especially for a narrow window that gives you less room to insert it at an angle. You may need to give an extra 1/8 or 1/4 inch clearance to the original measurement if the window opening is crooked.
Hi sir! Thanks for the informative video. Did you do edge polishing when ordering these acrylic windows? Never done this before, wondering if I should have it polished for safer handling by hand, or rather not so weatherstripping can be applied more uniformly? Thanks!
I live on a busy street and this would be a great DIY project. Thank you for posting this video. Now that it has been months since you completed this project, is there anything you would have done differently? One thing i came across on another persons video was the person put silica packets between the window and the Acrylic so it is not fog up. Have you noticed any issues where the window swells or expands causing a gap?
The big mistake I did was using the non-flexible stripping on some earlier versions (shown breifly in video on what not to do). With those, small openings opened up, causing very minor condensation by the openings in direct sunlight. Very small area. I did not notice any on the inserts made the way I showed in video. Other than that, air space! The more the better, the insert I showed at the end works far better than the ones closer to window. Also, I screwed up measurments on first set...so I bought laser measure. DM me if you have other questions, hope these help with the noise levels - it was noticably better for me.
@@phillipbunker9017 Please, I have a small question... should the measurement of the "laser cut" for the "acrylic" be exactly the same as the edge of the window? I would like to know if you left 1cm to place the "rubber"...The other thing I wanted to know is if it puts pressure or need to use glue?
@@phillipbunker9017 Hi, thanks so much for the excellent tutorial. I'm having trouble finding that shape of weatherstripping. Could you link to it or recommend where to buy?
@@miumikuhatsukoi5300 leave some room for the weather stripping. The stripping says it's expansion dimensions on the box so account for that on the sides when measuring. No glue, the stripping was self adhesive
I just moved to another place .. but unfortunately it’s upstairs and right on the corner of two main streets and a rail road crossing here in Oxnard California.. all I do is hear obnoxious drivers in their crotch rockets and straight piped Chevy Silverado’s and mustangs (and other nuisance muscle cars) this noise is unbearable 😡 so I want to do this now. But I’m worried if this will make it hotter .. will doing this to the windows make it hotter inside ? I have no ac
I can tell you from experience that living upstairs without an AC in the Summer means you WILL be hot if you remove your air flow. It became so unbearable in my ex gf's apt that we had to rig the one room with suitable windows for AC to have two air conditions running at the same time in different windows to cancel out the oven that the rest of the apartment was. Without a thermometer I estimate the temperature must have been in the upper 110's or mid 120's. I felt like I was going to die in there.
Wonderful and very clear. Thank you. What if you used Green glue on the inner edge of the weather stripping? Do you think that would be in any way a benefit. I love the suction cup tool device; what a great recommendation.
@phillipbunker9017 Ok so i followed this up to the bit where you have to place the acrylic into the window frame and what I am curious about is, how did u get the acrylic to sit int the window frame, did you have some magnetic strips that it adheres to OR did you insert the acrylic into a window channel so it stays in place? Also how do you remove it when you need to clean the other window ?
does any condensation form between the insert and the window? I know this is an issue when the seal goes between a dual pane window and am worried the same thing will happen with these. We have cold winters here (toronto).
I would like to use this to add a frosted acrylic privacy window insert for the window above my shower as the Warranty on my windows does not allow me to add a window film. Since it is for a bathroom, I am concerned about moisture and mold buildup between the insert and the window. Does anyone have tips to avoid this? For example, would using weather stripping only on the 2 sides (no weather stripping on the top and bottom) help to provide adequate air circulation to prevent this?
I live next to a rail road crossing in the City and I want to try and make this to minimize the train horn noise, do you think it would help in reducing this noise?
@@richardlam6885 no i didn’t I thought it was overpriced considering I was renting, and I was about to make my own but then i ended up moving out of the place
The silicone stripping is just adhesive, so how long do you reckon they will stay on the window perimeter after repeated dismounting and remounting of the window? My interest in the inserts is mainly for sound proofing, but I may want to take them out during the day so I can open my windows.
Not sure. I have taken mine out for the summer and put them back in a few times with no trouble. Daily might be harder. Might be worth hot glue on in addition to built in adhesive
How do you go about taking the window insert out? Does it pull out easily just with those suction cups handles? Thank you for this video, I think we'll try this in our apartment as we live on a very busy/noisy street.
How important is the air space to sound prevention. I have a moving door to the balcony and i want to reduce noise but dont have an option for the air space i must put it on the window glass
very informative video. If the rubber is 3/8 - in each side, shouldn't you subtract 3/8 - in each side (total of 6/8 -in)? I am trying to do this one myself and want to make sure i get the right cut. Thanks
The stripping flexes from 3/16 to 3/8. I did the cuts taking the smallest part of the opening, and subtracting off 3/16 from both sides. 1:45 in the video has an example in writing. If you do 3/8 from each side you will risk holes for areas that are wider.
@@phillipbunker9017 This is extremely confusing. You say in the video "subtract 3/8 from smallest dimension" and then write "I misspoke it's 3/16 from both sides. Your example works out to be 3/8 from the smallest dimension. Then you say here that 3/8 is wrong and you point the commenter to the example for reference. I cannot make heads or tails of this.
Pretty good, thanks! you think this will work for noise neighboors? I live in Mexico so there’s no shipping of those indowwindow for here For example 50-60 decibels I need to low it to at least 30 you think this will work? To buy acrylic asap
Reduction will be a factor of how much air space in between window and acrylic, and what noise your blocking. High frequency are blocked better than low (bass). You will notice a reduction. I don't have a decibel reader, so can't quantify. Going from 50 to 30 is a massive reduction.
I don't really recommend using a laser as fractions of an inch matter, lasers are 1/4-1/8 off. you can get a more accurate measurement measuring with a few tapes and if they're all consistent. I just bought one off amazon for this project and realized my tapes are far more accurate
Would you recommend a 3/8inch over a 1/4inch acrylic sheet even if you’re sacrificing more loss of air space? I currently have 1.5inch worth of space to put the insert in the window pane.
I would go with thicker for more mass, but no real data to back it up. The air space comment comes from the windows I had an extra inch or so are noticably better sealed for sound and air then the ones with less. That being said trading mass for airspace feels right
3/8 inch thickness wow that is really thick. I think the only thickness I have access to is about 5mm, in your experience do you think it'll be significantly worse?
@@phillipbunker9017 Thanks for the quick reply, much appreciated. Due to the cost of the plexiglass where I am (it's about 50 dollars just for 2mm thickness for the size of my window here, 3/8 inch would be too expensive) I'm going for 3mm (I live in a corner apartment so I have a lot of windows! A blessing and a curse at the same time!). Your video has really helped me! So again thanks x 1 million!
Still strong. The adhesive on the weather stripping still holds after many take out/ put ins. Morning condinsation is an issue on the ones with less air space and more sun. I put some spar urethane on the wood windows to beef up their strength and protect against wear.
Where did you get your acrylic? My window is 54 1/2" x 60 3/4". I cannot find anyone that can provide acrylic that size in Nashville or even online order. Any suggestions?
I don't believe it. Contact a plastics or glass seller. There should be plenty of acrylic (plexiglass) sales/cutting services available now especially with COVID-19 and the popularity of sneeze guards. EDIT: I see your width is 54 inches. You may have to join 2 pieces of plexiglass, which is what I am considering doing.
@Richard Lam I was able to get 1/2 inch laminated glass. Thrilled w the result! I paid a lot more and hadn't professionally done and inserted. A lot more money... and worth it
A couple of things, could you include the serial number or product number for the specific seals you used? If you were to do it again, would you do anything differently?
it might be this one: M-D Building Products 3/8-inch x 3/8-inch x 17-ft. Premium All Climate Rubber Gap Seal Brown Model # WS31121 Store SKU # 1001121259 Home depot Canada
@@rezachaygani8229 is there some kind of rule against posting links? I wish somewould post the links where to buy these. All the seals on home depot are different shapes...does that matter?
I have to disagree about the amount of dead air space required. If you look at a double or triple pane window, there’s not more than about 1/4” airspace between the panes. I made acrylic inserts and placed them up against the inner trim pieces by the tracks for the sash. I placed the gaskets on the surface of the acrylic, between the acrylic and the trim, rather than on the edge of the acrylic and against the sides if the window frame. This gives you a little more room for error if you under-cut your acrylic. Roundhead screws screwed into the window frame perpendicular to the acrylic (NOT into the acrylic!) keep the acrylic and gasket pressed against the trim piece. You do not want any gaps! Note too - NO window frame is going to be perfectly square. Measure the diagonals and you’ll see. Also, the sides of the frame may not be perfectly straight. I made cardboard templates first to fine-tune the shapes. Make sure the frames themselves are well caulked as well. My inserts make a significant reduction in street noise coming into the room.
any issue with condensation between window and insert? I need to remediate noise, but here in Florida we have high humidity and run our air cond 10 months a year
A few days in the winter there was condensation. Minimal in summer, but I don't have Floridian humidity. The windows in the sun were worse than the shade.
I tried this and it actually eliminated condensation (from the inside) in the winter in the north. In your situation I would say make sure your windows are sealed good before attempting.
not to point out the obvious but your inserts don't deal with gaps between the sash and the jam in any way. Doesn't this defeat one of the main reasons for using such a thing?
How annoying it is that you keep showing that ridicuclous movavi logo throughout the entire video... I get it, you are plugging the brand, but have you ever heard of overkill? On a more upbeat note, your video is very informative and I like your explanations and troubleshooting skills.
I like it when he says "Don't cheap out buy the laser" when he could be buying proper laminated windows instead of devaluing the property with junk add on windows
Love how your high horse ass leaves out the enormous cost difference between this DIY and completely replacing a window. Older homes, where this will most often be an issue, will cost thousands of dollars to buy and install "proper laminated windows" compared to this roughly $250 project including the laser and one window.
@@kurtm8623 - the point I raised is your "Don't cheap out buy the laser" kinda contradicts your stated purpose here - for a start a laser is not required and unlike your DIY snake oil "project" proper laminated windows add value to any home and come with installation warranties and is certified
Thank you! We were able to do this with a 1/4 thick sheet for a large (4x6') double-pane window facing traffic. Cut sound down about 90% for about $240. Going to do our smaller back windows now.
Wow I just read this. I am glad someone was able to do this too. Any tips?
Maureen, any tips? Which website?
Best tip is measure window with a laser. Also if you still have a gap, i found an expandable insulation that goes up to 1 inch. Get extra suction cup pulls and leave in the room in case of fire so insert can be removed quickly
Thanks for the info! I also plan to use 1/4 inch acrylic. Can you share what type of insulation you used? Were you able to find a product that was 1/4 wide to match the acrylic sheet?
@@coryvansteenwyk4050 Hi Cory, were you able to find out the answer to your question? Thanks!
This is a good tutorial. I've looked at several before finding yours, and this has been the more informative. Thank you!
I followed your directions and it turned out perfectly. Very nice video. The only thing I did differently was that I used 1/4" acrylic, but this was fine because the sticky part of the window sealing strip is actually 1/4" wide. I got a very snug fit, no worries of it falling out. I actually have to use the window glass suction cup I had to remove it.
Edit: For anyone who is interested, I got my acrylic from Estreetplastics. They got the specs spot on.
I followed this tutorial as an alternative to indow inserts.
I had a local acrylic plastics manufacturer cut them for me. I used 1/2" cast acrylic. I used the same MD rubber silicone for the edge that's in the video and filled any remaining gaps with Green Glue sound sealant. The noise reduction was substantial, measured using my phone it went from about 56-58db to 49-50db. It's not a magical amount of sound reduction but it was definitely substantial to the point I found it worthwhile for our master room that's next to a road. don't expect to be able to take these on and off to open windows, they are quite heavy and difficult to remove, but they can definitely be taken off in case of emergency that you need to jump out of your window or something.
Love it, DIY! Found one company for window inserts that wanted around 350 per window, so I looked up a plastics store and got 2 windows cut for around 300 and the rubber is 8 bucks a pack.
What store did you get it cut?
It was a local Nevada acrylic shop that did it.
@@houstonderk thanks!
Just finished doing a larger window in my office with this information. I didn't really need to make any alterations to the formula and it cut out the incessant highway road noise pretty noticeably. Thanks for posting this vid!
hey can this really cut out the highway noise? I am bothered by the noise so much, even thinking about in my bathroom.
@@yanghuang1376 yes it does cut down noise substantially. downside is that you can never open the windows for fresh air, off course
The standard Indow brand inserts are only 1/8" thick acrylic - their expensive acoustic grade is 1/4", so your 3/8" is quite an upgrade, thickness is especially good for sound insulation as you have seen. Price should be substantially lower if you buy the 1/8 acrylic sheet which is probably fine for many people trying to cut cost - weather-stripping type with that TBD.
I can't compare to different thickness, but I have been happy with the 3/8. Go big!
Also, I had limited air space. It's likely less thick acrylic and more airspace would have a similar impact. But just guessing
I've seen many of these videos (I hope to make the plunge this year) - people typically say 1/8" is enough to see the reduction in condensation, removal of drafts, etc. But if you want sound proofing, thicker is better.
I'm gonna do this. Another famous company that makes these inserts wanted $500 a window.
One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" it actually Block outside Noise coming from Windows. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
@@homedecore1391 also blocks out all the light though
Very good considerations! 😌🌎✨
Does it help keep the house cool in the summer too?
Hey! Thanks for posting this - it is very straight forward. Where do you recommend buying plexiglass? If you know of any good places online or in-stores.
Hi, thanks for this great DIY idea. I'm trying to do the same to my window. But just wondering, can you easily take the inserts off during the day to be able to open the window?
Does this help with low frequency sounds such as trucks and motorcycles?
I did one 1/4" thick, reduced a lot higher frequency outside noise, but didn't affect much the lower frequency sounds, eg. engines and tire on asphalt.
@@luciocostap Did you llay a sound damp blanket over it too??
@@treydmoe no, just the panel and a regular curtain
What glue do you use to glue the weather strip to the plastic?
How well does it stick to acrylic?
If the window is already leaky or has a draft, does the dead air space even matter in that case? We also have blinds and dont have much room for extra dead air space.
Great upload where can I get this weather stripping I live by a place that will cut my Plexi, but can't find the wedge weatherstripping. Thankyou
where can one purchase the 3/8 type you used?
Any airspace over 1/2” will allow convective currents in the space which reduce R-value.
I would also suggest taking into account the measurement of the edge of the window opening where you will be inserting the window frame. It could be crooked and slanted inwards, causing difficulty inserting the DIY window insert if you only gave 1/4 inch clearance to fit it (plus 1/4 inch for the compressed weatherstrip, basically making it 0 inches clearance), especially for a narrow window that gives you less room to insert it at an angle. You may need to give an extra 1/8 or 1/4 inch clearance to the original measurement if the window opening is crooked.
Hi sir! Thanks for the informative video. Did you do edge polishing when ordering these acrylic windows? Never done this before, wondering if I should have it polished for safer handling by hand, or rather not so weatherstripping can be applied more uniformly? Thanks!
How do you remove it? Do you use a suction cup?
I live on a busy street and this would be a great DIY project. Thank you for posting this video. Now that it has been months since you completed this project, is there anything you would have done differently? One thing i came across on another persons video was the person put silica packets between the window and the Acrylic so it is not fog up. Have you noticed any issues where the window swells or expands causing a gap?
The big mistake I did was using the non-flexible stripping on some earlier versions (shown breifly in video on what not to do). With those, small openings opened up, causing very minor condensation by the openings in direct sunlight. Very small area. I did not notice any on the inserts made the way I showed in video.
Other than that, air space! The more the better, the insert I showed at the end works far better than the ones closer to window.
Also, I screwed up measurments on first set...so I bought laser measure.
DM me if you have other questions, hope these help with the noise levels - it was noticably better for me.
@@phillipbunker9017 Please, I have a small question... should the measurement of the "laser cut" for the "acrylic" be exactly the same as the edge of the window? I would like to know if you left 1cm to place the "rubber"...The other thing I wanted to know is if it puts pressure or need to use glue?
@@phillipbunker9017 Hi, thanks so much for the excellent tutorial. I'm having trouble finding that shape of weatherstripping. Could you link to it or recommend where to buy?
@@miumikuhatsukoi5300 leave some room for the weather stripping. The stripping says it's expansion dimensions on the box so account for that on the sides when measuring. No glue, the stripping was self adhesive
I just moved to another place .. but unfortunately it’s upstairs and right on the corner of two main streets and a rail road crossing here in Oxnard California.. all I do is hear obnoxious drivers in their crotch rockets and straight piped Chevy Silverado’s and mustangs (and other nuisance muscle cars) this noise is unbearable 😡 so I want to do this now. But I’m worried if this will make it hotter .. will doing this to the windows make it hotter inside ? I have no ac
With no AC and no windows to open it would be really hot.
I can tell you from experience that living upstairs without an AC in the Summer means you WILL be hot if you remove your air flow. It became so unbearable in my ex gf's apt that we had to rig the one room with suitable windows for AC to have two air conditions running at the same time in different windows to cancel out the oven that the rest of the apartment was. Without a thermometer I estimate the temperature must have been in the upper 110's or mid 120's. I felt like I was going to die in there.
How did you get the tubing to stick to the wood of the window?, is it only held by pressure?
Wonderful and very clear. Thank you. What if you used Green glue on the inner edge of the weather stripping? Do you think that would be in any way a benefit. I love the suction cup tool device; what a great recommendation.
Thank you. It's been about 1.5 years and the stripping held up well so far. I don't have experience with green glue
@@phillipbunker9017 thank you for your reply!
Beautiful job,beautiful tutorial.
Hey Bud where did you order your acrylic? My windows are 59" x 59" and I have 2 of em
@phillipbunker9017
Ok so i followed this up to the bit where you have to place the acrylic into the window frame and what I am curious about is, how did u get the acrylic to sit int the window frame, did you have some magnetic strips that it adheres to OR did you insert the acrylic into a window channel so it stays in place? Also how do you remove it when you need to clean the other window ?
Why is it so hard to find any info on this method? Does it work or not? And I mean significantly work? Like 60% reduction
Which brand of weather stripping did you use?
Hi, I’m worried that the strips will let loose in time, what are your experiences?
does any condensation form between the insert and the window? I know this is an issue when the seal goes between a dual pane window and am worried the same thing will happen with these. We have cold winters here (toronto).
I would like to use this to add a frosted acrylic privacy window insert for the window above my shower as the Warranty on my windows does not allow me to add a window film. Since it is for a bathroom, I am concerned about moisture and mold buildup between the insert and the window. Does anyone have tips to avoid this? For example, would using weather stripping only on the 2 sides (no weather stripping on the top and bottom) help to provide adequate air circulation to prevent this?
Another commenter mentioned putting packets of moisture absorbing silica in between the window and the acrylic cover
I live next to a rail road crossing in the City and I want to try and make this to minimize the train horn noise, do you think it would help in reducing this noise?
Maybe, but I don't have a good guess by how much. Higher pitch noises are blocked better than lower pitch.
did you end up trying it?
@@richardlam6885 no i didn’t I thought it was overpriced considering I was renting, and I was about to make my own but then i ended up moving out of the place
The silicone stripping is just adhesive, so how long do you reckon they will stay on the window perimeter after repeated dismounting and remounting of the window? My interest in the inserts is mainly for sound proofing, but I may want to take them out during the day so I can open my windows.
Not sure. I have taken mine out for the summer and put them back in a few times with no trouble. Daily might be harder. Might be worth hot glue on in addition to built in adhesive
Fabulous idea, many thanks.
So many questions. :). What type of acrylic did you utilize?
3/8 inch paper covered clear. I don't have any other details
How do you go about taking the window insert out? Does it pull out easily just with those suction cups handles? Thank you for this video, I think we'll try this in our apartment as we live on a very busy/noisy street.
It is heavy, but very manageable with the suction cups with handle
How important is the air space to sound prevention. I have a moving door to the balcony and i want to reduce noise but dont have an option for the air space i must put it on the window glass
The video that I sent you was taken from my front door some 30 ft from this four-lane Street,. Will your method work for my application
very informative video. If the rubber is 3/8 - in each side, shouldn't you subtract 3/8 - in each side (total of 6/8 -in)? I am trying to do this one myself and want to make sure i get the right cut. Thanks
The stripping flexes from 3/16 to 3/8. I did the cuts taking the smallest part of the opening, and subtracting off 3/16 from both sides. 1:45 in the video has an example in writing. If you do 3/8 from each side you will risk holes for areas that are wider.
Let me know if you have other questions, and if you do make it would like to here your experience.
@@phillipbunker9017 This is extremely confusing. You say in the video "subtract 3/8 from smallest dimension" and then write "I misspoke it's 3/16 from both sides. Your example works out to be 3/8 from the smallest dimension. Then you say here that 3/8 is wrong and you point the commenter to the example for reference. I cannot make heads or tails of this.
Pretty good, thanks!
you think this will work for noise neighboors? I live in Mexico so there’s no shipping of those indowwindow for here
For example 50-60 decibels I need to low it to at least 30 you think this will work? To buy acrylic asap
Reduction will be a factor of how much air space in between window and acrylic, and what noise your blocking. High frequency are blocked better than low (bass). You will notice a reduction. I don't have a decibel reader, so can't quantify. Going from 50 to 30 is a massive reduction.
Can you tell me from wich company you ordered the material. A link would be helpful. Thanks.
Menards or home Depot for the weather stripping. For the acrylic call a plastic supplier local to you.
I don't really recommend using a laser as fractions of an inch matter, lasers are 1/4-1/8 off. you can get a more accurate measurement measuring with a few tapes and if they're all consistent. I just bought one off amazon for this project and realized my tapes are far more accurate
Would you recommend a 3/8inch over a 1/4inch acrylic sheet even if you’re sacrificing more loss of air space? I currently have 1.5inch worth of space to put the insert in the window pane.
I would go with thicker for more mass, but no real data to back it up. The air space comment comes from the windows I had an extra inch or so are noticably better sealed for sound and air then the ones with less. That being said trading mass for airspace feels right
3/8 inch thickness wow that is really thick. I think the only thickness I have access to is about 5mm, in your experience do you think it'll be significantly worse?
I don't have a good gauge on that. If you can make up for mass with air space that will help
@@phillipbunker9017 Thanks for the quick reply, much appreciated. Due to the cost of the plexiglass where I am (it's about 50 dollars just for 2mm thickness for the size of my window here, 3/8 inch would be too expensive) I'm going for 3mm (I live in a corner apartment so I have a lot of windows! A blessing and a curse at the same time!). Your video has really helped me! So again thanks x 1 million!
Looks like your plexiglass is crooked toward the top of the window frame. Laser measurements didn't help?
Did this and worked perfectly then summer came around and the weather strips keep coming off. Anybody has any tips for this?
How have these held up after a year? Do they do a good job blocking highway noise?
Still strong. The adhesive on the weather stripping still holds after many take out/ put ins. Morning condinsation is an issue on the ones with less air space and more sun. I put some spar urethane on the wood windows to beef up their strength and protect against wear.
@@phillipbunker9017 your video has inspired me to do this. I am very sensitive to highway noise. Do you have an email, in case I have any questions?
@@johntrailer1604 you can post them here. Higher frequencys are easier to block than low, so hope it works for highway noise
@@phillipbunker9017 my window is 58-9/16th long, and 34-7/8th wide. What dimensions should I tell the shop to cut the acrylic?
@@johntrailer1604 depends on your weather stripping flexibility. Also did you measure 3 spots to make sure it's not on an angle? Top middle bottom
How effective would this be against annoying barking dogs?
Have enough airspace and I would expect a noticable difference
Where did you get your acrylic? My window is 54 1/2" x 60 3/4". I cannot find anyone that can provide acrylic that size in Nashville or even online order. Any suggestions?
I don't believe it. Contact a plastics or glass seller. There should be plenty of acrylic (plexiglass) sales/cutting services available now especially with COVID-19 and the popularity of sneeze guards. EDIT: I see your width is 54 inches. You may have to join 2 pieces of plexiglass, which is what I am considering doing.
@Richard Lam I was able to get 1/2 inch laminated glass. Thrilled w the result! I paid a lot more and hadn't professionally done and inserted. A lot more money... and worth it
A couple of things, could you include the serial number or product number for the specific seals you used? If you were to do it again, would you do anything differently?
I don't have any boxes left. If you pause and Google the name it should come up. Home Depot had them.
it might be this one:
M-D Building Products 3/8-inch x 3/8-inch x 17-ft. Premium All Climate Rubber Gap Seal Brown
Model # WS31121
Store SKU # 1001121259
Home depot Canada
@@rezachaygani8229 is there some kind of rule against posting links? I wish somewould post the links where to buy these. All the seals on home depot are different shapes...does that matter?
Question, at 7:28 "covered window is 8 to 10 degrees warmer."
Does the insert cause the window to be that much hotter in the summer?
No. I left a few in over the summer since we run the AC anyways. I did not do any empirical measurements, but our upstairs felt more comfortable.
What is the thickness of acrylic sheet?
I used 3/8 inch
Just in case ya'll didn't know, this video was made with MOVAVI VIDEO EDITOR TRIAL.
lol
Gosh, it was overkill... dang and throughout the entire video, how annoying is that?
😂😂😂😂
I have to disagree about the amount of dead air space required. If you look at a double or triple pane window, there’s not more than about 1/4” airspace between the panes. I made acrylic inserts and placed them up against the inner trim pieces by the tracks for the sash. I placed the gaskets on the surface of the acrylic, between the acrylic and the trim, rather than on the edge of the acrylic and against the sides if the window frame. This gives you a little more room for error if you under-cut your acrylic. Roundhead screws screwed into the window frame perpendicular to the acrylic (NOT into the acrylic!) keep the acrylic and gasket pressed against the trim piece. You do not want any gaps!
Note too - NO window frame is going to be perfectly square. Measure the diagonals and you’ll see. Also, the sides of the frame may not be perfectly straight. I made cardboard templates first to fine-tune the shapes. Make sure the frames themselves are well caulked as well. My inserts make a significant reduction in street noise coming into the room.
Great job bud,beats the 600 dollar Windo insert option,if you know what I mean 👍👍👍👍👍👍
cheap tools that will save you a headache when doing this:
caliper $10
laser measure $20
How are these working for you so far?
I replied in a comment a few below in detail, overall very good
What is pet acrylic
Omg I need this
any issue with condensation between window and insert? I need to remediate noise, but here in Florida we have high humidity and run our air cond 10 months a year
A few days in the winter there was condensation. Minimal in summer, but I don't have Floridian humidity. The windows in the sun were worse than the shade.
I tried this and it actually eliminated condensation (from the inside) in the winter in the north. In your situation I would say make sure your windows are sealed good before attempting.
not to point out the obvious but your inserts don't deal with gaps between the sash and the jam in any way. Doesn't this defeat one of the main reasons for using such a thing?
This isn't obvious to me. the window insert should block noise coming from the gap between the sash and the jamb
WHats the thickness of the acrylic that you used?
3/8 inch
NVM I shouldve listened.I got too excited...THank you!!!
Hmmm it looks like an excellent idea.... But at $100 each, I have 20 windows, yikes!
Do you need to soundproof all windows or just bedroom?
$2000 is less than the cost of replacing 2 windows with good windows and more effective per window as well
Landscape mode.
Dual pane acrylic are up to 10x more effieient. See: ua-cam.com/video/O4koJRZgPRY/v-deo.html
that was tedious .
Awful video with that label in the middle. Really annoying
Bad lighting
Awful Narrow video
Too bad because it has good content
Fuck me, use the metric system already, America.
How annoying it is that you keep showing that ridicuclous movavi logo throughout the entire video... I get it, you are plugging the brand, but have you ever heard of overkill?
On a more upbeat note, your video is very informative and I like your explanations and troubleshooting skills.
Thanks for the nice words. Imagine how annoyed I was after doing all the editing the ''free' video software wanted me to pay for the full version!
I like it when he says "Don't cheap out buy the laser" when he could be buying proper laminated windows instead of devaluing the property with junk add on windows
Love how your high horse ass leaves out the enormous cost difference between this DIY and completely replacing a window. Older homes, where this will most often be an issue, will cost thousands of dollars to buy and install "proper laminated windows" compared to this roughly $250 project including the laser and one window.
@@kurtm8623 - the point I raised is your "Don't cheap out buy the laser" kinda contradicts your stated purpose here - for a start a laser is not required and unlike your DIY snake oil "project" proper laminated windows add value to any home and come with installation warranties and is certified
Do you work for a window company?
@@margaretanderson5531 - LOL nope
How does an insert, which can be taken out, devalue a property?
Will 1/4 thickness work?
Whats the thickness of the insert ?
Oh I see you said its 3/8, thanks for the instructional.
What’s thickness of the acrylic that you used ???