I really was racking my brain to try and show how it levels better and flows. Which to me is going to be huge for modelers and guys who have trouble with getting a good gloss on UVLS (or any acrylic urethane clear really) or who have trouble with those semi rough basecoats. I found i need significantly less reducer to get good flow from paints that have been challenging with 4011. Thanks Steve!
I’ve been using it for a couple weeks now and I love it. My tip dry has all but disappeared and I’ve noticed I have a little more shine in my finished art work. It also has worked great with my uvls gloss.
Thanks for the video and taking the time to make it, but I will continue to use only distilled water to reduce, it has always worked very well for me and is also non-toxic.
Ill never be the guy saying you cant use a little water in your paints. Now i do get a bit testy about people using cleaning products. I did the best I could to offer a non biased overview. Have i switched to using it.. yes. I ALSO find reasons to use other reducers which is situational.
I just started using distilled water for reducing all my water-based paints--E'tac, Createx, and Aqua Flow--and it sure seems to work better for reducing/thinning than tap water. I also recently got an 8 oz. bottle of the 4021 to try, I need to do more testing but I still like the distilled water better so far. Now if I could just get sight back in my left eye...recently had surgery for detached retina and am totally blind in that eye right now--no depth perception at all, have snagged and ruined three needles for my Olympos Microns!
@@sped17373 Tap water can be hit or miss.. one you have minerals that can have hard deposits. But the chlorine levels can fluctuate and cause paint issues. Distilled is better for sure.. bottles is ok. Deonized is better than both. But its not a huge difference.. Tap water is heavily dependant on where you live.
ive used 4012 for I guess about 10 years. The 4021 is a bit slower and more leveling than 4012 But it cuts through paint pretty much as well. It will definitely curb any anxiety of losing the 4012. It does some things better. And of course it plays nice with all of the newer createx paints. It definitely is way better than 4011 for wicked. And other urethane acrylics.
Great test, very informative, I am planning to try the 4021, but I have a large supply of 4011 to use. Because the 4021 dries more slowly would it dissolve a light layer of paint when you are painting a fine line over it?
lets be clear with some paints you can cut back through them with water alone when sprayed thin. Easily. It should not really be much different, however i think most who actually experiment and play with their paints Will find they use significantly less reducer. It really flows way better. The guys who dump a ton of reducer in and a couple drops of paint might need to adjust a bit.
Good video, thanks So I’ve been doing some thrift store art and of course we all know the rule you can’t use acrylic over oil! I saw a Craig F. Video and he said you can use 4050 over an oil painting? Have you had any experience with this or know if it works?
Oil paints on canvas can still be curing up to a couple of years. So that could be a YMMV answer. If the paint is still curing it will definitely shrink and crack any acrylic coating of any type. Im gonna go with "its not a good idea regardless of painting age"
Great video! I've been using 4021 for a while now (bought it right on release) and have had some great results with it so far. Mainly using it with mini guns like the LPH-50 and LPH-80. I still get tip dry, even with the mini guns, that I need to clean off really often though. One thing I have noticed is with the 4021 and autobourne sealer is that it's a lot more prone to "solvent pop" if you go a little too wet with the sealer. Didn't notice it as bad with the 4011.
I havent encountered any issue like that as of yet with it. However not sure where your at but it is exceptionally hot lately. Which could lead to rapid flash surface drying, which could that issue. And of course if your running a fan hard at it.
@@TheAIRspace Temps have been fairly moderate over here, but I only notice that the autobourne sealer is prone to this pop/bubble issue if you go a little wet. It's quite strange, happens almost instantly. The ULVS clears I can hammer on super wet and don't encounter this so I'm not sure what's going on, maybe its not the 4021 and just the nature of the autobourne sealers.
Could you do a video on airbrushing a horse head? Is it possible to never have to disassemble an airbrush as long as you keep it clean using certain methods?
I was getting ready to toss all my Createx paint in the trash. It always has me on the verge of a rage quit. After some testing, I'm just chucking the reducers. I get all I need from IPA or acetone. I don't care about tip dry. I'll just keep picking it off as usual. Coming from the solvent based world, where I can put down paint, and have it ready to mask by the time I grab the tape. I need that, and thinning with acetone gives me that in spades.
IPA and acetone certainly will give faster flash times The 4013 and the 4020 use those You can of course add those to the 4011 as well. Straight ipa and acetone of course will affect pot time And naturally be a bit brutal to use without great ventilation. Leveling may become an issue. And dye back if you get too heavy. But if you’ve done solvent you already know how too hot a mix behaves and how to adjust I have used both myself to increase flash, but that’s a bit more spray gun specific and definitely not something I want to get stuck troubleshooting for folks on the internet Best to ya! Bill
Because the rewetting? Not necessarily. 1 the only time it will be an issue is if you need zero bleed. And if you do, you are already supposed to put a barrier coat with no reducer of a slightly different makeup then the coating above it. I can run some tests but I suspect its a non issue. Personally if I want a bright white spot over a waterbased candy id use a solvent white. And same with solvents id use waterbased over solvent if I needed zero bleed. Its by far the best approach
no its not. 18 mil plus 2 mil is 20 2 mil is 10% 9 parts paint 1 part reducer. or 2 is 10% of 20. But that's a pretty common mistake. 4 to 1 is 20% not 25 3 to one is 25% and 2 to one is 33% 1.8 ml would wind up being 9.09090909% of a 19.8 ml solution (18 plus 1.8) Thanks for stopping in!
Not sure why anyone would want to use 4012 Absolute garbage reducer, nothing but issues with seeding and clumping...horrid stuff. 4021 I do like that you can pre mix it now and it's not an issue yay!
until environmental changes happened 4012 was way better than 4011. ive still used it for a lot of things. I got lots of reducer here. But 4012 gets used as a cleaner more now. There are a bunch of people still using 4012 and have been unwilling to give it up And I know why, 4011 doesn't cut paint like 4012 does. But with 4021 that takes that concern away. The 21 will be the go to reducer for most people.
@@Aviopic I expect, from conversations ive had , you will see a "faster" reducer for those extreme humidity situations Like we have for 4013 and 4020 Only based on the 4021 base. As for earlier you mentioned pre mixed. While im not a fan, and of the "i will tread very carefully and not mix all my paints with reducer" I do have some premixed for over a week with no signs of an issue.
Love that you did this!!
I really was racking my brain to try and show how it levels better and flows. Which to me is going to be huge for modelers and guys who have trouble with getting a good gloss on UVLS (or any acrylic urethane clear really)
or who have trouble with those semi rough basecoats.
I found i need significantly less reducer to get good flow from paints that have been challenging with 4011.
Thanks Steve!
Thanks for the review. Im going to give it a try
I’ve been using it for a couple weeks now and I love it. My tip dry has all but disappeared and I’ve noticed I have a little more shine in my finished art work. It also has worked great with my uvls gloss.
it definitely flows very well. and breaks down the paint much better than 4011
Thanks for the video and taking the time to make it, but I will continue to use only distilled water to reduce, it has always worked very well for me and is also non-toxic.
Ill never be the guy saying you cant use a little water in your paints.
Now i do get a bit testy about people using cleaning products.
I did the best I could to offer a non biased overview. Have i switched to using it.. yes. I ALSO find reasons to use other reducers which is situational.
I just started using distilled water for reducing all my water-based paints--E'tac, Createx, and Aqua Flow--and it sure seems to work better for reducing/thinning than tap water. I also recently got an 8 oz. bottle of the 4021 to try, I need to do more testing but I still like the distilled water better so far. Now if I could just get sight back in my left eye...recently had surgery for detached retina and am totally blind in that eye right now--no depth perception at all, have snagged and ruined three needles for my Olympos Microns!
@@sped17373 Tap water can be hit or miss.. one you have minerals that can have hard deposits. But the chlorine levels can fluctuate and cause paint issues.
Distilled is better for sure.. bottles is ok. Deonized is better than both. But its not a huge difference.. Tap water is heavily dependant on where you live.
I love 4012! also love cleaning my brushes with it. Hope I get to like and love 4021. Great review Bill! Thanks!!!
ive used 4012 for I guess about 10 years. The 4021 is a bit slower and more leveling than 4012 But it cuts through paint pretty much as well.
It will definitely curb any anxiety of losing the 4012. It does some things better. And of course it plays nice with all of the newer createx paints.
It definitely is way better than 4011 for wicked. And other urethane acrylics.
Great test, very informative, I am planning to try the 4021, but I have a large supply of 4011 to use. Because the 4021 dries more slowly would it dissolve a light layer of paint when you are painting a fine line over it?
lets be clear with some paints you can cut back through them with water alone when sprayed thin. Easily.
It should not really be much different, however i think most who actually experiment and play with their paints Will find they use significantly less reducer. It really flows way better.
The guys who dump a ton of reducer in and a couple drops of paint might need to adjust a bit.
Good video, thanks So I’ve been doing some thrift store art and of course we all know the rule you can’t use acrylic over oil! I saw a Craig F. Video and he said you can use 4050 over an oil painting? Have you had any experience with this or know if it works?
Oil paints on canvas can still be curing up to a couple of years. So that could be a YMMV answer.
If the paint is still curing it will definitely shrink and crack any acrylic coating of any type.
Im gonna go with "its not a good idea regardless of painting age"
Wow great to know- thanks!
Thank you!
Great video! I've been using 4021 for a while now (bought it right on release) and have had some great results with it so far. Mainly using it with mini guns like the LPH-50 and LPH-80. I still get tip dry, even with the mini guns, that I need to clean off really often though.
One thing I have noticed is with the 4021 and autobourne sealer is that it's a lot more prone to "solvent pop" if you go a little too wet with the sealer. Didn't notice it as bad with the 4011.
I havent encountered any issue like that as of yet with it.
However not sure where your at but it is exceptionally hot lately. Which could lead to rapid flash surface drying, which could that issue.
And of course if your running a fan hard at it.
@@TheAIRspace Temps have been fairly moderate over here, but I only notice that the autobourne sealer is prone to this pop/bubble issue if you go a little wet. It's quite strange, happens almost instantly.
The ULVS clears I can hammer on super wet and don't encounter this so I'm not sure what's going on, maybe its not the 4021 and just the nature of the autobourne sealers.
Could you do a video on airbrushing a horse head?
Is it possible to never have to disassemble an airbrush as long as you keep it clean using certain methods?
Thank you!
I was getting ready to toss all my Createx paint in the trash. It always has me on the verge of a rage quit. After some testing, I'm just chucking the reducers. I get all I need from IPA or acetone. I don't care about tip dry. I'll just keep picking it off as usual. Coming from the solvent based world, where I can put down paint, and have it ready to mask by the time I grab the tape. I need that, and thinning with acetone gives me that in spades.
IPA and acetone certainly will give faster flash times
The 4013 and the 4020 use those
You can of course add those to the 4011 as well. Straight ipa and acetone of course will affect pot time And naturally be a bit brutal to use without great ventilation.
Leveling may become an issue. And dye back if you get too heavy. But if you’ve done solvent you already know how too hot a mix behaves and how to adjust
I have used both myself to increase flash, but that’s a bit more spray gun specific and definitely not something I want to get stuck troubleshooting for folks on the internet
Best to ya!
Bill
I compleyely feel yah. I threw out all my wicked colors and i don't use anything Createx anymore.
For water based i switched to Golden high flow.
Useless for candy applications I guess 🤔
Because the rewetting? Not necessarily.
1 the only time it will be an issue is if you need zero bleed.
And if you do, you are already supposed to put a barrier coat with no reducer of a slightly different makeup then the coating above it.
I can run some tests but I suspect its a non issue.
Personally if I want a bright white spot over a waterbased candy id use a solvent white.
And same with solvents id use waterbased over solvent if I needed zero bleed. Its by far the best approach
1.8 ml is 10%
no its not. 18 mil plus 2 mil is 20 2 mil is 10%
9 parts paint 1 part reducer.
or 2 is 10% of 20.
But that's a pretty common mistake.
4 to 1 is 20% not 25
3 to one is 25%
and 2 to one is 33%
1.8 ml would wind up being 9.09090909% of a 19.8 ml solution (18 plus 1.8)
Thanks for stopping in!
@@TheAIRspace if you say so
Not sure why anyone would want to use 4012 Absolute garbage reducer, nothing but issues with seeding and clumping...horrid stuff.
4021 I do like that you can pre mix it now and it's not an issue yay!
until environmental changes happened 4012 was way better than 4011. ive still used it for a lot of things. I got lots of reducer here. But 4012 gets used as a cleaner more now.
There are a bunch of people still using 4012 and have been unwilling to give it up And I know why, 4011 doesn't cut paint like 4012 does. But with 4021 that takes that concern away.
The 21 will be the go to reducer for most people.
@@TheAIRspaceSo we're sort of back to 4013 😉
@@Aviopic I expect, from conversations ive had , you will see a "faster" reducer for those extreme humidity situations Like we have for 4013 and 4020 Only based on the 4021 base.
As for earlier you mentioned pre mixed. While im not a fan, and of the "i will tread very carefully and not mix all my paints with reducer"
I do have some premixed for over a week with no signs of an issue.