Fantastic! Your instructions and reassurance gave me the confidence to tackle the job. Saved a whole lot of money doing it myself whilst enjoying every step.Thanks a million 👍
Thank you sir, for a clear and concise video. Done at the right pace (very important) some are so slow and full of B.S. that I cannot watch, OTHERS ARE TOO FAST! I'm headed out to the shop now with a new found confidence.
Hands down THE BEST how-to video on the subject! Just one question though. I have a 2001 KX250, and mine actually has two washers. They look identical, but one is slightly thicker than the other. Unfortunately, I do not recall which one was on top. Any ideas? Thank you!
Good vid. My manual (06 RMZ 250) says to keep the oil level above the two holes in the inner tube when filling with oil and purging, so bit confused on that point.
Thanxs bro. I couldnt adjust the rebound valve on the low side but i saw that you assembly the spring and the top part of the fork and then you can adjust with out problems.
hello i got this kind of fork, 2002 year i believe i have to rebuild it, no leaks, but it is VERY hard, VERY VERY hard, i ride it once for now on a road - an it's so painful for my arms! Some people saying that it is normal for this fork, is it true, or it is some kind of malfunction??
great video thanks! i changed many fork seals over the years and i wish i had watched this video before. there were some neat tricks i could have used. but i know now!
Is there a different version of that fork, newer perhaps where additional parts like the bumper and such were used? I didn’t see one on your top cap however the rest was identical.
great job. my 87 kx 250 is unstable in sand and mud and deflects on rocks. ideas?springs are stock compression is all the way out. oil is 120mm. forks are 5mm in triple clamps.
Such a well done video, I may now attempt to change my own seals for once. BTW, I'm sure you didn't mean to tell people we can "buy" our own Dr. Dirt, Scot Gustafson after watching this video. But in case you did; how much does he cost for a day?
its interisting , can i have some question? my fork is 98 showa fork and its work normaly but since last month the rebound like hit back downward so hard like there is no rebound or something that hold it and i dont have any idea whats wrong with it ? can any body help me out?
Very good video! Should have taken time to explain the proper orientation of the fork seal. High pressure side to the inside. I have seen some high end aftermarket fork seals that seem to not have a high pressure side or no low pressure side.
so helpful, i have these forks on a bike they dont belong to, happy to know its fairly universal, now i just hope the part shop isnt a bitch asking for frame numbers because its on the wrong bike xD
Your comment about the bushes with regards to the wear is completely wrong. The wearing surface on the bush is not the copper side, it's the Teflon grey coloured side.
Not too bad. But... the "bushing inspection" was all wrong. He explained and demonstrated how to remove the bushings so as not to damage them. Then, he pulls them out and doesn't even inspect the wear surface of either bushing. This is the area that is most often damaged during removal. This is also the area that is prone to have the most wear. The other surface... the area he points out in the video... is not even a wear surface. I'm not sure he understands all he's saying.
Haha. He knows exactly what he is talking about. The bushings are designed to be sacrificial, to protect the tubes. Yes, you should inspect the channels, but that should be a given. But if you properly maintain your fork assembly, this will not become an issue.
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This is the best open chamber fork rebuild video ever! Thanks!
Fantastic! Your instructions and reassurance gave me the confidence to tackle the job. Saved a whole lot of money doing it myself whilst enjoying every step.Thanks a million 👍
Thank you sir, for a clear and concise video. Done at the right pace (very important) some are so slow and full of B.S. that I cannot watch, OTHERS ARE TOO FAST! I'm headed out to the shop now with a new found confidence.
if i won the lottery i would hire this dude to work on my bikes, doesnt putt around, knows his shit, thanks scott!
What a great video with detailed explanations. Perfect. Thank you!
Hands down THE BEST how-to video on the subject!
Just one question though. I have a 2001 KX250, and mine actually has two washers. They look identical, but one is slightly thicker than the other. Unfortunately, I do not recall which one was on top. Any ideas? Thank you!
Good vid. My manual (06 RMZ 250) says to keep the oil level above the two holes in the inner tube when filling with oil and purging, so bit confused on that point.
You are really a good mecanic specialist..thank..for video...I am an old french fanatic of motorcycle
Thanxs bro. I couldnt adjust the rebound valve on the low side but i saw that you assembly the spring and the top part of the fork and then you can adjust with out problems.
hello
i got this kind of fork, 2002 year i believe
i have to rebuild it, no leaks, but it is VERY hard, VERY VERY hard, i ride it once for now on a road - an it's so painful for my arms! Some people saying that it is normal for this fork, is it true, or it is some kind of malfunction??
great video thanks!
i changed many fork seals over the years and i wish i had watched this video before. there were some neat tricks i could have used. but i know now!
Is there a different version of that fork, newer perhaps where additional parts like the bumper and such were used? I didn’t see one on your top cap however the rest was identical.
Followed your instructions with success. Thanks bro.
I like they way you explain things, awesome video
Thanks alot - i doing this first time and this vid give me so much help !
Great video ...except I can’t get the base bolts out on the bottom on mine. They just keep spinning and spinning!
great job. my 87 kx 250 is unstable in sand and mud and deflects on rocks. ideas?springs are stock compression is all the way out. oil is 120mm. forks are 5mm in triple clamps.
before you do anything you should make sure you have the correct springs for your weight, "front and rear," and your rear sag is set correctly.
i deal with clark jones at noleen suspension he set me up great hes awesome!!!!!! i asked this a year ago!!!!!!
other videos point out NOT to get oil down the dampening rod hole when refilling. He seemed to pour it right down the middle. Confused on that
Maybe because he had the rod removed when pouring and others had left it inserted while pouring the oil in ??
Such a well done video, I may now attempt to change my own seals for once.
BTW, I'm sure you didn't mean to tell people we can "buy" our own Dr. Dirt, Scot Gustafson after watching this video. But in case you did; how much does he cost for a day?
its interisting , can i have some question? my fork is 98 showa fork and its work normaly but since last month the rebound like hit back downward so hard like there is no rebound or something that hold it and i dont have any idea whats wrong with it ? can any body help me out?
it looks like you have a cool job btw
Hi Steve; can you do a DIY on seal replacement on a air fork from a CRF250R 2017
is this a similar procedure for the front shocks on a 2003 KTM 625 sxc?
Very good video! Should have taken time to explain the proper orientation of the fork seal. High pressure side to the inside. I have seen some high end aftermarket fork seals that seem to not have a high pressure side or no low pressure side.
Will this be the same process for a 2011 yz450f ?
The most usefull one I have seen. Thanks guys!..
Great video!!
My base bolt just spins and will not come out. It also won't tighten back up. It is as if the threads just wiped out. Suggestions?
I got the same issue ...did you get yours to work?
@@craigpajek8698 I did. You need to compress the fork a little to get it to tighten and loosen.
I have a ktm 85sx 2007 and i mot sure if it has the open chamber fork does simeone know?
How do i know how many cc should i put on my fork?
oil down the dampening rod hole? in the manual its says no oil in center..
It doesn't really matter, so long as you properly bleed the system and add the correct amount of replacement oil.
Ya Need to know much oil for the riders body weight ?
Great Stuf! Cheers from Norway
Does this method work for 2016 ktm 450 exc?
You can tell that this guy does this like 100 times per day
Nice work
husqvarna sm610 ie . what front fork oil level 00 ML
Oil seal took me ten minutes with a knife and screwdriver to remove... Think it was glued on...
Are these the same thing as telescopic forks?
Yes and no.
All modern forks are telescoping, but not all telescoping forks are open or closed chambered.
so helpful, i have these forks on a bike they dont belong to, happy to know its fairly universal, now i just hope the part shop isnt a bitch asking for frame numbers because its on the wrong bike xD
does any one know how much oil to use in a 1990 rm 125 showa forks that are open chambered
Your comment about the bushes with regards to the wear is completely wrong. The wearing surface on the bush is not the copper side, it's the Teflon grey coloured side.
How do I find the right size fork driver
Google is your friend.
same for ktm exc-f 250 (2007) ?
Great vid guys.
Good job thanks
My bottom bolt is just spinning once I got it loose won't come off?? Help anyone? please?
push and compress the fork hard while trying to impact it out.
if you can't do it that way you might need to buy a dampening rod holder.
40 uga dugas, my favourite unit of mesurment :D
LMAO! I have the same screwdriver set. Thats awesome.
Wonderful. Thanks!
de cuantos mm tiene que ser la cámara de aire?
is it the same on a suzuki rm250 2003?
Yup, exactly the same on the ‘03 RM250. That’s what I have as well.
@@craigpajek8698 thanks for the answer. Its only 5 years late
Fantastic! Thanks!
How The hell did he get 40ft lbs from an impact driver?
u are awesome!!!!!!!!!
Lol who has an old triple clamp lying around. Its no necessarily a wear part
ive actually cracked 3 of em
thanks much
👍👍
250 shootout????
Btw its pronunced ^Huskvarna^ Ur welcome :)
yy
*not* *someone*
Not too bad. But... the "bushing inspection" was all wrong. He explained and demonstrated how to remove the bushings so as not to damage them. Then, he pulls them out and doesn't even inspect the wear surface of either bushing. This is the area that is most often damaged during removal. This is also the area that is prone to have the most wear. The other surface... the area he points out in the video... is not even a wear surface. I'm not sure he understands all he's saying.
Haha. He knows exactly what he is talking about.
The bushings are designed to be sacrificial, to protect the tubes. Yes, you should inspect the channels, but that should be a given. But if you properly maintain your fork assembly, this will not become an issue.
(y)
Clear and awesome 👏
(y)