Panasonic WhisperCeiling FV-20VQ3 bathroom exhaust fan retrofit / installation
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
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Alright...so I'm a homeowner with below-average home improvement skills. Most of the installation videos I've seen leave out the details, and they're done in new construction homes. So I figured I'd record the whole process in case it helps you. I left all of my mistakes in there, so hopefully you won't repeat them. The big thing is DON'T cut the hole in the ceiling so that the lip of the fan body is outside of the drywall. Instead, cut the hole large enough so that the entire fan body (including the lip), passes through the ceiling drywall. The underside of the fan housing has to screw directly into the joists and header, not into your ceiling drywall.
Also, when you're building the header, use 2" x 2" lumber instead of 2" x 4" lumber. Otherwise, you'll obstruct the space where your ductwork needs to run...and you want a straight, clear bath from your fan to your vent.
In a separate video, I'll show you the difference it made once I replaced my existing 4" duct with 6" duct. With the 4" duct, the fan was pretty loud and the bathroom moisture just didn't clear like I expected. The 6" duct helped a lot...it's more quiet now and the bathroom mirror doesn't fog NEARLY as much. I have a small bathroom, so I've found that I need to leave the door halfway open so that the fan isn't starved for air.
Finally...be smart. Flip the breaker, disconnect power, and test to make sure it's REALLY off before you start. And don't blame me if you break something ;)
Here's a list of supplies for this project. You might find 'em useful. Yeah, I'll make a few cents if you buy via these Amazon links.
Panasonic WhisperCeiling FV-20VQ3 fan: amzn.to/2ytjTFX (Or get this one...it's a bit newer and has a simpler installation method: amzn.to/2jLtOEy)
Hard hat (keeps roofing nails out of your head): amzn.to/2i44bKW
Headlamp for hands-free illumination (this one has a lifetime warranty): amzn.to/2jJyUkF
Circular saw (you'll need to cut lumber to build a header): amzn.to/2l71Zqw
Measuring tape: amzn.to/32qNAGU
Reciprocating saw (you may not need this if you build the headers with 2x2s!): amzn.to/2hqUpFY
"The Ugly" reciprocating saw wood blade (again...build the headers with 2x2s, and you may not need this): amzn.to/2yrEVo2
Metal / duct crimper: amzn.to/2zzh5dB
Metallic HVAC tape: amzn.to/2zzFHkj
Rubber grommet or snub bushing (protecting your wires from fraying against the hole in the metal housing...you might be able to pull one from your old / existing fan): amzn.to/2hqVtcA
Wire nuts: amzn.to/2hqWwJy
6" to 4" duct reducer (only use this is you HAVE TO; you really want to just replace what you have with 6" ductwork): amzn.to/2i2Ek63
6" insulated flexible ductwork (Yes, solid pipe is better...but I had access issues and a lack of expertise. Just make sure you pull the flexible ductwork tight.): amzn.to/2i3ebEf
Flexible duct hanger strap: amzn.to/2ys9kCN
Your video was EXTREMELY helpful with installation. I installed the FV-30VQ3 version which was almost identical. Instead of cutting the sheet-rock the 2nd time like you did I chose to remove the electrical box from the structure and moved it over about half an inch and re-welded it in place. I did not have any supporting board on that side so it allowed the duct/electrical box to slide into place once the exhaust fan itself was mounted. I did this because I wanted the lip of the exhaust fan to be able to hold the sheet-rock in place once it was installed. Thanks again for the great how to do video.
Clever workaround! I'm not skilled enough to remove and reweld...nor was I smart enough to even think of it. Good job, and glad the video was helpful!
Yup I actually just installed mine and did the same, awesome that I'm not the only one.
I purchased the Panasonic FV-30VQ3 model (290 cfm). When I called Panasonic with install questions, I was told this model WAS NOT meant to be installed from underneath the sheetrock but for new installation only, that's why it doesn't come with a bracket kit. I mentioned to the technician that there is absolutely nothing in the instructions, paperwork, or even on the box that mentions this fan is to be new installed only. After that mind blowing answer, I asked the technician about ordering a 4 inch exhaust port, since my ducting is 4 inch, he said that if I didn't use a 6 inch duct, the fan will be noisy and the exhaust air will be constricted. I still complained to the technician about the lousy instructions, as if he cared, but at least he got my feedback.
The instructions DEFINITELY leave a lot to be desired!
Either way I think you would need to calk so the moisture does not enter the attic
Scott, really, REALLY, appreciate you making the decision to create this tutorial as opposed to bypassing the effort and just installing the fan, being done with it and going on with your life unto more enjoyable things. A lot of people when watching a video really don't understand how much effort goes behind it's production. Feel this is really going to help me a lot. Hopefully (thanks to your video) I will be able to mitigate some of the pit falls you came across or at least prepare for them in advance now that I know what I am going to be dealing with. I feel your video is going to save me a lot of time and (probably money too). So glad I have this video available to serve as a map so I have a better idea of how to navigate my way through this project with less trial and err. Thank you very much!
Appreciate the kind words! Hopefully you'll learn from my mistakes and everything will go smoothly. For what it's worth, I still love my fan and it's still moving air like a champ!
Thank you! I wish I saw this video 8 hours ago, but I’m grateful I saw it nonetheless. I feel so see . Now, back to tackling this fan.
You've got this!
Scott, your video was well done, as helpful. >>>Scott, in my area, the flexible exhaust vinyl hose is not code, as a solid metal exhaust is code, and furthermore, the entire pipe, from exhaust to the roof, including the entire fan should be insulate to avoid condensation, only if you reside in a cold climate area.>>>I applaud your workmanship........great job!
Thanks, Conrad...glad it helped!
Great video! I would suggest taking out the AC cable box and re-solder it with drywall clearance. Also turning the fan 90 degree instead of putting two studs and cut the current stud. But your suggestion of taping to prevent air leakage was a great idea. Thanks again for the video~
Thanks for this video. Very helpful. I was over here scratching my head trying to figure this out.
Hope it made your life a little easier!
This video is a savior! Glad I saw it before starting my install, saved a lot of agonizing redo's! Thank you
So glad it helped... best of luck with your project!
Wonderful video! I have the 290 cfm version I am about to install and you answered all my questions before I even started. Thanks for making this video and saving me and others time.
So happy to help. Learn from my mistakes!
You are the man ! Very helpful video. You have a great sense of humor.
Appreciate it...glad it was helpful!
A word of warning…. it’s a good fan, but it’s only as good as the size of the duct. It’s noisy and inefficient, because the exhaust duct isn’t large enough to handle the air volume. 110 CFM is sufficient for a standard bathroom
Great video, thanks for posting. "It would have been easier if we just moved" hilarious!
Not bad but, you should have positioned the fan 90 degrees from how you had it with the duct pointed between you joist. The 2X4 you added could then be laid on its side to give support while maintaining clearance. Otherwise you could have simply laid a 1X4 on top of the sheetrock to fasten to from the bottom. With the other sides attached to the joist it would be secure. Nice job though, very clean.
Thanks! I positioned it that way so that it could have a straight run out to the soffit exhaust vent. But you're right...there are a few variations on workable ways to do this install.
nice job, very realistic install...things happen where you have to re fit things.😄
Thanks for the comment---hope the video's helpful!
Noise: if you use 6" duct or 6" to 7" or 8" reducer and use 7" or 8" duct then the noise level will reduce dramatically.
TF!!!?😵🤔
The exact problem I was looking to solve. thanks for the video
You bet...good luck with your installation!
This fan is loud. And as you heard it even after putting a 6 inch duct its loud. In the video the sound is very low. Since he is close to the mike he sound clear but the sound in the background is high
The fan box can be installed above the drywall or under it, it will work either way. But its better for old work to have the box under the drywall. The screws are intentionally long so they can go through the drywall and screw into the mounting bracket. Either way works but its probably better to have the black box under the drywall so you have a nice tight fit.
thanks for the video, very useful and saved me a bunch of time
Glad it helped!
Wish I would have seen this last week. Ended up modifying the exhaust and electrical box to get it to fit.
The good news is that it'll go a LOT easier if you ever install a second one. I just replaced our kids' bathroom exhaust fan and installed the same model number-the installation took about half the time of the first one. I used 2x2' lumber to build the frame in the attic, cut the larger square in the ceiling the first time around, and everything went really smoothly overall.
Great job Scott!
Appreciate it!
Thank you!!!!!
You sir are a life saver! Thank you.
Daniel Jones Glad it's helpful! (Or at least more helpful than the Panasonic directions).
I put this in today after watching your video. Very helpful thank you.,
yeksun Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for making this video. Looking to get this fan to replace a patheticlally weak fan that leaves my bathroomed steamed up. This should help me save a ton of time - cheers!
I wish I saw this a few hours ago. I installed a similar Panasonic ventilating fan (FV-08-11VFL5) and had the same problem with the drywall creating a gap when you slide in the vent and electric box. They don’t line up because the drywall gets in the way. The instructions do NOT account for this! The instructions pretend the ceiling drywall is paper thin.
Great video, Thank you
maybe the best way was to lay the new 2x4 frame wood flat instead of upright, giving you the clearence for the duct work?
Buy the retrofit versions for retrofit work.
Great VIDEO. I have the same delema with these damn Panasonic Fans. In addition in MA you need to use solid 4" pipe and insulated. How ya like those tomatoes.
Wow! Three cheers for codes. 🙌
Good video man!
Thanks!
This video saved me. Buy your kids a car and pony.
Ha! So glad it helped!
Love when someone does something wrong and all the comments are "Great Job" LOL. You're supposed to connect the duct/electrical box part BEFORE you secure it. Don't blame Panasonic and their directions. Read them and understand them before you go hacking away at something
I'm getting ready to do an install of this fan and the instructions state 1) install header(s) 2) attach fan to headers 3) insert duct to adapter 4) connect wires. I'm not sure where the duct/elec box connection occurs as the instructions are quite vague? I'll have to do more research before I start cutting, etc. (After doing more research I think I agree with a lot of the statement and this fan really is for new construction. If you are installing/replacing an existing fan, you have to cut the hole bigger than the template, etc. as the video shows. I built the 2"x4" supports and then installed in the attic. My vent points parallel to the rafters/joists and if you plan correctly, you don't have to notch the end (if you even need it).
Did you ever figure out that rattling type noise from all the air movement? I installed the fv30vq3 model and it sounds the same. When the bottom grill is off, just putting my hand to redirect airflow would make it go away, I made up an air redirect and it worked until I put the bottom part on and that changed the characteristics again and noise came back.
The rattle noise is too much, sounds like I'm in a warehouse. I don't mind the airflow noise, just don't want the rattling. Hope you figured it out.
These come with the Flex-Z Fast bracket now that makes installation a breeze. Just installed the 150 CFM version. That Flex-Z Fast bracket gives great support and installs in a snap if you can get in from the attic. I dindn't even try from beneath.
That's great to hear! I'm all for easy!
Not for the ones that are 190 CFM and upwards They show it on the image but is not there in the box or manual
I read in the comments you have two of these. I did the same and got two installed but with 6” ducts. One sounds way quieter than the other. The louder one sounds kind of how yours sounds, like some mechanism is rubbing or something. Are both of them the same for you? I can’t get over it that one is much quieter. Both are the same model
That's a mystery. The one in my guest bathroom is louder because it's on a smaller flexible duct, with a bit of a curve / bend close to the fan. Not optimal. If they're both the same type of duct, and they're both heading straight out, that would probably suggest the fan? Maybe some of the other folks who've commented here have ideas, too.
@@ScottHancock it’s a brand new fan.. the fan is also spinning freely and round instead of wobbly. I took a video of it turned on at .5x optical setting on my iPhone and it seems like the flapper inside is moving up and down where as the good one is not moving at all. I wonder if that’s the issue
How about installing the fan from the attic and having the initial hole. Resting the fan lip area on the drywall then screwing on to the sides. Won’t that prevent from making the hole bigger
It's a great question. To be honest, I installed this so long ago that I can't remember. Someone else here might be able to advise!
This was a HELL project. Panasonic is crazy not giving much clearance for the duct.
That's a pretty fair assessment. The instructions certainly left a lot to be desired, too.
Glad I found this so I can hear how the unit sounds when reduced from 6" to 4". That's pretty loud. I put in a 110CFM WhisperQuiet and it was really just a hum. Albeit that was 4" solid pipe throughout. I'm curious how this is performing now 5 years later.
It's still running like a champ! It's proven to be well worth the installation hassle.
Dont mind a little noise. It adds privacy. How much performance did you loose? I just ordered a new one 290 cfm and a cone reducer 6-4”
So it looks like it went from 6 inch at the fan reduced to 4. I think I read he upgraded to 6 eventually. Was the wall cap or foor cap 6 inches ir 4. Just asking because I'm going to install a similar fan but only have 4 inch wall cap
Do you think whoever designed this fan hates people?
HA! It's VERY possible that the person who wrote the installation manual hates people. The fan itself has been a champ since I installed it!
@@scottandkatiehancock8267 I mean the two final screws are a work of art, you install the piece from the outside but you tighten them from inside )))
Hi Scott.. thanks for uploading this video! I like how you recorded the fan noise at the end. It is quite loud. I have the 80 cfm one and thinking to replace with this one. Were you able to reduce the noise eventually?
Thanks for the comment! Yes...if you replace 4" duct with 6" duct, and vent it straight away from the fan, the noise decreases a lot. I used insulated flexible duct, but I'm sure straight / hard duct would be even better. I wasn't able to do that with our guest bathroom fan (same model), but it's still significantly quieter than a lot of fans I hear in other homes and businesses!
Thanks Scott for responding! I just spoke with my contractor he will be using 6 inch ducting
Unfortunately I'm in a condo so I can't use a 6" duct 😢. My noise is elevated.
Maybe it's just the video, but it sounds noisy to me. Sounds like metal vibrations more than the actual fan. Did you ever caulk and tape the joints in the attic? Did the noise improve afterwards?
I did caulk the joints on the attic side. The noise decreased considerably when I upgraded to 6" flexible duct. For it to truly be "whisper quiet," you probably need to use rigid duct, like Panasonic recommends.
Thanks for the update! I clicked on your profile accidentally, I see a video about Mammoth Cave. Crazy, I'm from that area.
Does this come with the Panasonic flex z fast bracket?
You provided plenty of info, however you should not cut the joist. You should have instead position the system in a different direction where the vent is pointing between the 2 joist and you should've tried securing other sides of the unit instead of the one with the vent coming out. Just my opinion.
I think the joist you're referring to (the one I trimmed away with a reciprocating saw) is a header piece that I screwed in during the fan installation. It's smarter to just use a 2x2" instead of a 2x4"...I did that for my second fan installation and avoided that trouble. However, the integrity of the house isn't in question, because I didn't cut into part of the existing ceiling / roofing lumber. I only added that header (per Panasonic's instructions) to support the fan itself.
He didn't cut a ceiling joist, he only cut a short header that was added solely for the fan screws. What was left was plenty to support the fan securely.
Thanks for sharing! Do you cover the fan with those (pink) foam insulation after installation in the attic?
Yep...once I got everything sealed up and connected, I re-fluffed and filled the insulation back around the fan.
@@ScottHancock Great, I was a little worried about filling the insulation on top or too close to the fan, thanks!
You installed it wrong, the cutout should only be the size of the box, the outlet and electrical box is installed first then the box slides in to connect to it. You did not have to cut the hole bigger.
You dont get it do you. The electrical box is so close to the bottom, it does does not slide back fully. If you have the fan you will understand
Good job gotta replace mine
Good luck! Framing on the attic side was probably the trickiest bit for me, but it was mostly because there wasn't much room between the ceiling and the roof. Let me know if you have questions, but hopefully I made all the mistakes for you in this video.
Sounds like something hitting the fan. Next time you don't love dinner, make sure to tell her you should have gone to McDonald's instead. See how she likes that.
Whisper Quiet. I think not. GREAT JOB!
What a pain in the ass! I just put in a Panasonic FV-08-11VFM5 that pumps out either 80 or 110 cfm. It replaced a 50 cfm Broan in my ensuite. At 80 cfm there was not much improvement but at 110 it was a very noticeable improvement. I also have vaulted ceilings which don't help matters. This fan came with a Flex Z mounting bracket which made it a breeze to install. I was able to do it all without going into the attic. Not sure why they wouldn't sell this exhaust fan with the same bracket? I have a larger bathroom to do now and had planned on putting this fan in there to replace the 80 cfm Broan but not if I have to install it through the attic...... vaulted ceilings leave no room for this kind of crap.
No kidding! At the time of the installation, the Flex Z Fast bracket wasn't available on a fan with this high of a CFM. I will say that the second one of these I installed went WAY faster than the first. There's a learning curve, for sure.