@@patagonia as the video sponsor, do you endorse the decision to edit a summit photo to remove other climbers? It seems like a very problematic precedent. Hard for me to see this incredible film as a documentary anymore.
This is so well made. Obviously the climb itself is peak performance for any mountaineer, but the story building, filming, editing, unique shots showing the intensity of the climb, balance of comedy and tragedy and suspense, etc. One of the best climbing films in a while. Well done.
After watching Devil's Thumb with Honnold and Caldwell with that mindblowing drone footage, it's a real treat to now watch this as insanely magnificent footage. Bravo!
I only saw on Instagram that Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts summited the exact same moment and still wonder why they were edited out of the actual footage when this would be just a nice add on to the story. Can anyone explain that? I mean removing the people from the actual footage seems a lot of work for what?
Frick yeah. And awesome to see Vince sharing in the climb and experience. Old school keeping it alive. And Josh is such a stellar climber. And of course his actions are not social media, just putting up and sending routes in all styles.
Josh & Vince blew my mind!! Such insane climbing. This overall story, and getting to know a little bit about these guys was just perfect. I can’t believe I got to watch this kind of content for free. Bravo to all involved in the making of this. It’s an absolute masterpiece❤
Incredible climbing, and fantastic images. All together makes this documentary a marvel. Thank you for sharing this incredible experience. All my respect for these two masters
Great movie but but the summit sequence is highly problematic, as it does not show the Canadians Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts reaching the summit at the same time via a different route. They seem to be ‘erased’ from the image, even though they appear at the same precise spot in the pics of the expedition report.🤔
Hi, it's the filmmakers from Reel Rock. Quentin and Alik's climb was incredible - it was honored with the Piolet D'or and deserves to be told as its own story. But for the story we set out to tell, of Josh and Vince's deeply personal, multi-year journey on Jirishanca, seeing an additional climber on the summit, who was only visible from some angles and not from others, during the emotional climax of the movie, was very distracting. It would have required a lot of explanation and new information about who he was and how he got there, during the last 30 seconds of the movie. So we made the creative decision to avoid showing Alik on the summit. We can see how some people might object to that decision, but as storytellers we are constantly making choices about what to include or omit as it's impossible to follow every thread. Certainly no disrespect to Quentin and Alik! We recommend reading their great write-up about their climb from the American Alpine Journal: publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216702
@@REELROCK1 There are clear guidelines for ethical documentary film-making. Not cutting dialogue mid-sentence to change its meaning, using footage out of context, using cuts/juxtaposition to falsely imply simultaneity or the perception of cause and effect, selective omission to change the narrative etc. etc. If that scene was causing confusion then a couple of those shots could have been removed from the final cut. That's an editorial choice. A tough choice to make, ethically, because it tells a different story. It simplifies the story, yes, but it also makes the mountain seem more remote, more badass. It puts the climbers alone on the pedestal, which is ironic after Josh's remarks earlier in the film. Deciding to use the footage anyway but remove the climbers is a bit different. That's not editorial anymore, that's completely removing the guarantee that the audience is viewing real footage. It goes beyond even the common case in the climbing media of passing a re-enactment off as footage of the original ascent. Altering images brings everything into question. Was anything else justifiably altered to look more badass? Were anchors edited out? Were cameramen edited out? Did seeing a helicopter confuse viewers? If we don't have the guarantee that we're looking at real documentary footage, then there's no guarantee that anything is real.
@@REELROCK1think that you have possibly got your priorities wrong. They didn’t do the climb so you can make a beautiful movie. You’re making a beautiful movie in order to document their climb. Your core audience are all established climbers / mountaineers - doesn’t it slightly insult their intelligence to suggest that a minor disctraction in the form of objective reality would undermine the project of documenting that reality? You’re film making is a creative project which must remain secondary to its aim as a document. You have placed your own aims and intentions as film makers at the pinnacle of your priority list which has enabled you to feel you can justify digitally altering out objective fact because it compromises your vision or what artistic integrity means in this context. Where does that stop? Will you edit out aid? Edit out bad weather? Edit in anything?
Incredible climb! I've been so psyched on this movie since I heard their podcast about the climb on the Cutting Edge. That ice roof is mad on such a big mountain!
very proud to see Vince on something like this - he leart me on UA-cam the Quad Anchor for Iceclimbing - where i liked his coolness right a way - of both :-))
Herzliche Gratulation! Das war eine echt tolle Leistung von euch! Danke für euren Film und eure persönlichen Eindrücke! Berg Heil und schöne Grüße aus 🇦🇹 (Austria)!
Like special Forces guys who've smoked a joint, Josh and Vince navigate through situations any mortal would find traumatising with an awareness that only comes from a person who's searched the soul. Being so close to the edge only seems to remind them they are alive. Toying with death means they control it. We all need to cope with death in some way, many avoid the idea, but some fight it; and in doing so grow as people. I was particularly impressed with the decision to back off when they knew it was too close, they are committed to their families, the greater cause for their lives, above all else. Yet this is more than two guys climbing a rock, it is an exploration and an expression of man's need to face mortality and suffering to overcome it. In this way, what they are doing is art, creative expressions of the soul to explore something meaningful and helpful. The filmmaking is equally as artistic and significant to the cause. I'm blown away at the capturing of these fascinating personalities, the history, even trauma, that drives the behaviour, juxtaposition of the dying mountain environment with the sense of overcoming, it is sensationalised but it needs to be. These feats and these movies are more than just glorified adverts on social media, they are creative expressions of people who are toying with deeply important existential issues and coming through it with insight that us viewers can harness to direct our own lives in the face of the same existential issues. So thanks for doing, creating and sharing, it means a lot.
Great job with the audio. Love to see the drone footage with the actual audio of the climb under it (or however you did that, maybe overdubs, but it sounded pretty real to me). Great film! Love to see Josh Lowell still cranking em out!
Ultimate mountaineering movie! So amazing to witness this on a comfortable couch 😂 and so easy to forget how much skilled these guys are! Speechless. And the filming, and the music! It got it all. Thanks for sharing this (while writing this comment I paused at 29’56 and the drone shot of the summit is unreal)
It’s moments like these I’m really thankful for this kind of access to such amazing stories. Great tale of two nice guys doing cool shit in the mountains.
Just watched this for the second time. What a fantastic film. Josh is such a low-key crusher, and Vince is Vince. What a legendary team to pull off this climb!
Big UP and Sender Films consistently make the best climbing films. Such a beautiful balance between objective and larger purpose in this one, wonderfully imagined by detailed character building. Great work!
I've seen that mountain for the first time this year from the distance on Mururaju. It captures your attention like nothing else! What an insane climb!
I first met Vince back in the old 90s AMGA days when he was this young buzz saw and you could tell in the first five minutes that he was going places. Good to see you still gettin' after it, Vince. And yes, it's for sure not tennis! Congratulations on your little climb, guys (wink).
26:05 "I see risk as a bank account, you make withdrawals through your life, you should only take a withdrawal if it is really rewarding or inspiring to you" . Wow what an incredible way of putting it, definitely see it in a different way now, and makes me feel way better about the times I chose to be safe. Definitely keeping that quote
In August this year I camped in the valley below Jirishanca, marveling at the stunning mountain. I sat and wondered, is there a route up this in current conditions, and if so, who would go for it? Now we know. Congrats Josh and Vince, and thanks for inspiring us to keep getting after it in the Blanca and Huayhuash before these glaciers are gone.
I gotta ask.... how did you descend something like that? Is there enough solid ice for rapping on ice screws? Albalakov's? Snow bollards? Cams/Pro? Up is one thing but in such technical terrain I'd think the decent could be just as harrowing.. pulling ropes, loss choss... bloody hell that sends shivers down my spine... nice work lads.. I'd like to see either of you at 50th anniversary of Banff Mountain Film Festival in 2025...
Probably some downclimbing where the terrain warrants it. A threads and snow bollards as much as possible, then you sling boulders where it's just rock. Worst comes to worst you start rapping off pitons, nuts and cams. Some footage of the descent would've been interesting.
Great question! In article written for the American Alpine Club, Vince recounts their descent route, "Many of the traversing pitches Josh and I had climbed on the way up had to be reclimbed, which made for slow going. It got dark quite quickly, further complicating route-finding. Tired, but cautious, Josh and I slowly made 12 to 14 awkward rappels back to our bivy, dealing with a few fatigue-induced route-finding errors and some seriously tangled ropes." You can read the rest of the article, Buena Suerte: The First Free Ascent of Jirishanca's Southeast Face, on The American Alpine Club Publications, or listen to their episode of The Cutting Edge Podcast, Vince Anderson and Josh Wharton on Jirishanca.
Good eye! Vince says they're Japanese fishing gloves. The pair he wore is the SHOWA TEMRES 282-02. They seem to be popular in the alpine community at the moment. Plus they're quite affordable.
Best half hour of climbing content I've seen in awhile!!
I would have watched another 30 minutes easily.
Hats off to Josh & Vince for such an incredible climb, and thanks to the film crew for putting together this masterpiece. What a story!
love your videos too bury
@@lucaspalacios2941 Thank you!!
A wild Andraz appears
@@user1756😂
Love your videos andraz, big inspiration :-)
Man, drones have revolutionized how these movies look. That long shot at 27:17 is just mind bending
absolutely metal, that shot of them on the summit is unreal. i can't even begin to imagine the downclimb
agreed, crazy shit mate
Just once, show us the damn downclimb!
There was another party on the summit at the same time but they edited them out. With that fact, those scenes become really strange.
Hi there, Reel Rock has responded to a similar comment below if you would like to learn more about the situation.
@@patagonia as the video sponsor, do you endorse the decision to edit a summit photo to remove other climbers? It seems like a very problematic precedent. Hard for me to see this incredible film as a documentary anymore.
This is so well made. Obviously the climb itself is peak performance for any mountaineer, but the story building, filming, editing, unique shots showing the intensity of the climb, balance of comedy and tragedy and suspense, etc. One of the best climbing films in a while. Well done.
Incredibly well-told story all around. Two badass, cool dudes. Loved every second!
That was fantastic and inspiring - all 40/50-something folks who love the mountains should watch this.
We couldn't agree more!
Exactly!
After watching Devil's Thumb with Honnold and Caldwell with that mindblowing drone footage, it's a real treat to now watch this as insanely magnificent footage. Bravo!
I only saw on Instagram that Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts summited the exact same moment and still wonder why they were edited out of the actual footage when this would be just a nice add on to the story. Can anyone explain that? I mean removing the people from the actual footage seems a lot of work for what?
Because it’s apparently too distracting and would ruin the shot and require explanation.
@@SimonMatthews-ni4xj an unsatisfactory response, right? This isn't a fictional drama, it's supposed to be a documentary.
What a great achievement. Brilliant filming and great editing. I would love to have had a few shots of the downclimb.
Is it dangerous? "I mean, its not tennis" 😂
Vince is a real one 😂
I want a Vince-approved playlist. Mad lad.
Frick yeah.
And awesome to see Vince sharing in the climb and experience.
Old school keeping it alive.
And Josh is such a stellar climber. And of course his actions are not social media, just putting up and sending routes in all styles.
No social media says everything about purity and authenticity in climbing today. Thanks for keepin' it real.
Josh & Vince blew my mind!! Such insane climbing. This overall story, and getting to know a little bit about these guys was just perfect. I can’t believe I got to watch this kind of content for free. Bravo to all involved in the making of this. It’s an absolute masterpiece❤
This was amazing thank you for putting this out there
Glad you enjoyed it!
The drone really changes how we see climbing. Amazing.
Amazing movie and amazing accomplishment! So down to earth and just overall badass, love to see it!
Best alpine film in ages!
Tremendous climb and spectacular film to document it. Really well done!
Congratulations on the send, what an accomplishment, and what a journey. Thanks, helps a lot!
Incredible climbing, and fantastic images. All together makes this documentary a marvel. Thank you for sharing this incredible experience. All my respect for these two masters
Respect and great film. Thanks.
Brutal documentary Patagonia!!! Probably the best I have seen. Amazing climbing. Es bestial ! Enhorabuena y gracias!!!!
Great movie but but the summit sequence is highly problematic, as it does not show the Canadians Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts reaching the summit at the same time via a different route. They seem to be ‘erased’ from the image, even though they appear at the same precise spot in the pics of the expedition report.🤔
Hi, it's the filmmakers from Reel Rock. Quentin and Alik's climb was incredible - it was honored with the Piolet D'or and deserves to be told as its own story. But for the story we set out to tell, of Josh and Vince's deeply personal, multi-year journey on Jirishanca, seeing an additional climber on the summit, who was only visible from some angles and not from others, during the emotional climax of the movie, was very distracting. It would have required a lot of explanation and new information about who he was and how he got there, during the last 30 seconds of the movie. So we made the creative decision to avoid showing Alik on the summit. We can see how some people might object to that decision, but as storytellers we are constantly making choices about what to include or omit as it's impossible to follow every thread. Certainly no disrespect to Quentin and Alik! We recommend reading their great write-up about their climb from the American Alpine Journal: publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216702
@@REELROCK1 There are clear guidelines for ethical documentary film-making. Not cutting dialogue mid-sentence to change its meaning, using footage out of context, using cuts/juxtaposition to falsely imply simultaneity or the perception of cause and effect, selective omission to change the narrative etc. etc.
If that scene was causing confusion then a couple of those shots could have been removed from the final cut. That's an editorial choice. A tough choice to make, ethically, because it tells a different story. It simplifies the story, yes, but it also makes the mountain seem more remote, more badass. It puts the climbers alone on the pedestal, which is ironic after Josh's remarks earlier in the film.
Deciding to use the footage anyway but remove the climbers is a bit different. That's not editorial anymore, that's completely removing the guarantee that the audience is viewing real footage. It goes beyond even the common case in the climbing media of passing a re-enactment off as footage of the original ascent.
Altering images brings everything into question. Was anything else justifiably altered to look more badass? Were anchors edited out? Were cameramen edited out? Did seeing a helicopter confuse viewers? If we don't have the guarantee that we're looking at real documentary footage, then there's no guarantee that anything is real.
@@REELROCK1 Very poor decision. Immediately calls into question the integrity of the film makers. Emblematic of the times. Sad state.
@@REELROCK1think that you have possibly got your priorities wrong. They didn’t do the climb so you can make a beautiful movie. You’re making a beautiful movie in order to document their climb.
Your core audience are all established climbers / mountaineers - doesn’t it slightly insult their intelligence to suggest that a minor disctraction in the form of objective reality would undermine the project of documenting that reality?
You’re film making is a creative project which must remain secondary to its aim as a document. You have placed your own aims and intentions as film makers at the pinnacle of your priority list which has enabled you to feel you can justify digitally altering out objective fact because it compromises your vision or what artistic integrity means in this context.
Where does that stop? Will you edit out aid? Edit out bad weather? Edit in anything?
I wonder if the climbers consented to this alteration prior to release
That is the definition of adventure and badassness !!! Congrats to the climbers and the movie team.
Great story, very impressed, no hyperbole!
Just wow, the dron images really make justice to the whole experience. Taking exposure to a whole new level on this mountain. Well done.
Incredible climb! I've been so psyched on this movie since I heard their podcast about the climb on the Cutting Edge. That ice roof is mad on such a big mountain!
Insanely impressive on all fronts cinematography, storytelling, and climbing. Amazing work by everyone involved.
Absolutely beautiful work, and these two guys seem so down to earth... Incredible feat. Hats off.
nice work fellas!
cool to see Zarela on as expedition support! luv her! !
Best soundtrack to a climbing movie hands down! Theeosees for the win!!!
very proud to see Vince on something like this - he leart me on UA-cam the Quad Anchor for Iceclimbing - where i liked his coolness right a way - of both :-))
No Appropriate Words to Describe this...Just Phenomenal.
What a mountain & route!
Ultimate...conquered...and beyond! Totally enjoyed the vid guys! Thanks for creating cool content to watch and dream about.
Herzliche Gratulation!
Das war eine echt tolle Leistung von euch!
Danke für euren Film und eure persönlichen Eindrücke!
Berg Heil und schöne Grüße aus 🇦🇹 (Austria)!
What an awesome and inspiring film...! ❤
Like special Forces guys who've smoked a joint, Josh and Vince navigate through situations any mortal would find traumatising with an awareness that only comes from a person who's searched the soul. Being so close to the edge only seems to remind them they are alive. Toying with death means they control it. We all need to cope with death in some way, many avoid the idea, but some fight it; and in doing so grow as people. I was particularly impressed with the decision to back off when they knew it was too close, they are committed to their families, the greater cause for their lives, above all else. Yet this is more than two guys climbing a rock, it is an exploration and an expression of man's need to face mortality and suffering to overcome it. In this way, what they are doing is art, creative expressions of the soul to explore something meaningful and helpful. The filmmaking is equally as artistic and significant to the cause. I'm blown away at the capturing of these fascinating personalities, the history, even trauma, that drives the behaviour, juxtaposition of the dying mountain environment with the sense of overcoming, it is sensationalised but it needs to be. These feats and these movies are more than just glorified adverts on social media, they are creative expressions of people who are toying with deeply important existential issues and coming through it with insight that us viewers can harness to direct our own lives in the face of the same existential issues. So thanks for doing, creating and sharing, it means a lot.
Great job with the audio. Love to see the drone footage with the actual audio of the climb under it (or however you did that, maybe overdubs, but it sounded pretty real to me). Great film! Love to see Josh Lowell still cranking em out!
Sois unas Máquinas!!!! 🦾🦾
Best documentary everrrrrrr thx from swedennnn
Ultimate mountaineering movie! So amazing to witness this on a comfortable couch 😂 and so easy to forget how much skilled these guys are! Speechless. And the filming, and the music! It got it all. Thanks for sharing this (while writing this comment I paused at 29’56 and the drone shot of the summit is unreal)
Big congratz guys :-) Admire you a lot and also big thanks to patagonia for this amazing video!
This made me crook at the end. Amazing courage and force of will.
It’s moments like these I’m really thankful for this kind of access to such amazing stories. Great tale of two nice guys doing cool shit in the mountains.
Incredible.
Congrats.
Thank you for be inspiring
Just watched this for the second time. What a fantastic film. Josh is such a low-key crusher, and Vince is Vince. What a legendary team to pull off this climb!
Big UP and Sender Films consistently make the best climbing films. Such a beautiful balance between objective and larger purpose in this one, wonderfully imagined by detailed character building. Great work!
Aside from editing shots to remove climbers who are also on the summit at the same time, I agree with everything you said.
Thank you👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Incredible climb. I love the crew of climbers in this video.
Great films Guy`s, Big Respect
Half-Way there! Going down, sometimes it's harder, then going up. Excellent video!
Why edit Quentin and Alik out of the summit shots?
Hi there! You can see a great image of Josh, Vince, and Alik on the summit while waiting for Quentin to make his final push here: pat.ag/TY/Jirishanca
Hi there, Reel Rock has responded to a similar comment below.
Yeah, "Death is the reminder to live." The cold shadow that reminds you of the warmest sunshine. Thank you for this exceptional video.
Great film! Amazing footage.
What a climb, great film!
The last hero shots were unreal. What an impressive mountain
great production here. amazing climb and climbers. and dads.
Some of the raddest dads out there!
wow great job everyone involved
Love the understated attitude of the climbers. Amazing job, guys!
Best climbing film I've seen in years,
Wow, i've climbed mountains before but that's top level nice work
Excellent, thanks it's a shame that it didn't mention the two Canucks they met on the summit.
I've seen that mountain for the first time this year from the distance on Mururaju. It captures your attention like nothing else! What an insane climb!
Gorgeous climb and gorgeous movie!
the background info on both climbers made it so much more tangible, awesome content
jajaja muy bueno!! tremendo pegue!! realmente impresionante y motivador, digno de hipérbole
mindblowing, great achievement and great movie. @patagonia can those red puff jacket be bought somewhere ?
I cant tell you how much better this is than "influencer content". Real is better every time...nice work
This is the best UA-cam video I have ever watched
I first met Vince back in the old 90s AMGA days when he was this young buzz saw and you could tell in the first five minutes that he was going places. Good to see you still gettin' after it, Vince. And yes, it's for sure not tennis! Congratulations on your little climb, guys (wink).
Amazing send!! Not sure what all the background was for though (@Pat lol)? No shots of getting down!? Thats the other half of it!
26:05 "I see risk as a bank account, you make withdrawals through your life, you should only take a withdrawal if it is really rewarding or inspiring to you" . Wow what an incredible way of putting it, definitely see it in a different way now, and makes me feel way better about the times I chose to be safe. Definitely keeping that quote
Freakishly awesome vid!
Great climb, great personallities!
In August this year I camped in the valley below Jirishanca, marveling at the stunning mountain. I sat and wondered, is there a route up this in current conditions, and if so, who would go for it? Now we know. Congrats Josh and Vince, and thanks for inspiring us to keep getting after it in the Blanca and Huayhuash before these glaciers are gone.
Thank you for sharing! Sounds like an incredible experience!!
would have loved to see them repell down :D
crazy Video, thanks a lot
Wow, .....wow. this is inspiring and apsoutly bad ass. Massive inspritation.
Excellent!!
Great stuff !
insane climb and story!!!!
Epic! Nice work gents!
Well done boys and super coop docu. 💪🤘
I gotta ask.... how did you descend something like that? Is there enough solid ice for rapping on ice screws? Albalakov's? Snow bollards? Cams/Pro? Up is one thing but in such technical terrain I'd think the decent could be just as harrowing.. pulling ropes, loss choss... bloody hell that sends shivers down my spine... nice work lads.. I'd like to see either of you at 50th anniversary of Banff Mountain Film Festival in 2025...
Probably some downclimbing where the terrain warrants it. A threads and snow bollards as much as possible, then you sling boulders where it's just rock. Worst comes to worst you start rapping off pitons, nuts and cams.
Some footage of the descent would've been interesting.
Great question! In article written for the American Alpine Club, Vince recounts their descent route, "Many of the traversing pitches Josh and I had climbed on the way up had to be reclimbed, which made for slow going. It got dark quite quickly, further complicating route-finding. Tired, but cautious, Josh and I slowly made 12 to 14 awkward rappels back to our bivy, dealing with a few fatigue-induced route-finding errors and some seriously tangled ropes."
You can read the rest of the article, Buena Suerte: The First Free Ascent of Jirishanca's Southeast Face, on The American Alpine Club Publications, or listen to their episode of The Cutting Edge Podcast, Vince Anderson and Josh Wharton on Jirishanca.
Utterly inspiring
Just awesome.
Kudos gentleman,that was a absolute joyride
Amazing!!!
Damn this was awesome. No fluff just badass climbing
Check out 'Splitter'. A Jonathon Copp film from 20+ years ago. Features a young Josh who was just as cool headed as a young'n.
Awesome
Just f***ing Awesome!
Well done gentlemen.
Respect vraiment à ces grimpeurs de l extrême ❤❤❤❤
does anyone know what gloves Vince is wearing during the ice pitches? Look like cold stores ones put can't see the brand
Good eye! Vince says they're Japanese fishing gloves. The pair he wore is the SHOWA TEMRES 282-02. They seem to be popular in the alpine community at the moment. Plus they're quite affordable.
@@JustinRoth Great, thanks! And good job on the film, we need more of this content fr!
Amazing
"Is it dangerous?"
"I mean, it's not tennis. So ya"
Best quote lol.
That was a great film. Makes me want to go climb. TFPU
great video, keep making the pure aline gear to make these expeditions happen
Most down to Earth if not for being a climber
‘It’s not tennis’ just about sums it up, fantastic 30 minutes, a mountain falling down with two amazing humans going up
Watch his facial expressions, so similar to Alex H. Two world class climbers with similarities, not to surprising. Great doc.