I'm getting into drag racing right now, matter a fact I have two losi 22s coming in the mail if you can believe that lol. Anyway I love your channel bro you explain things great! Always excited to see what you are up to next my man. Later and good luck!
Yes... I had a similar problem with my 1:24 Corvette. It used a brushed motor. Same exact problems. I contributed my problems to the lack if gear reduction, and the esc could not keep up with the extra load the motor now sees with a much higher wheel speed. Bottom line...the esc was ar fault even when using a 90c graphine 2 cell.
I'm still not sure exactly what happened. I had geared the car down like Tekin recommended, luckily they honored the warranty and sent me a new one and I haven't had any problems since.
Just FYI there is a known glitch on the Tekin black series with some motors if the rotor spacing from sensor board is too far it will skip and over heat. I had to send my unit in for warranty and took month to get back. Just play it safe don't go under 5.5 T motor.FYI if you use android you can plug it old get Hotwire to it. I use old tablet with mine works great.
Yeah after watching the video your ESC got so hot that the solder post start to melt on board same issue with mine on the Trinity Drag 3.5T. I had to warranty mine no other options also they don't want to replace the ESC so they might try to charge you for replacement $160. My suggestion is to get another motor maybe a Tekin combo :)
I'm not looking to pay for a replacement. If the warranty doesn't cover it after the website and the person I talked to from Tekin both said the ESC could handle the motor, I'll figure out something else to do. Kinda disappointed so far but I'm still holding out hope since so many people have good results with them.
it's because You don't have a UA-cam channel to Blast them on 😂 They'll definitely cover UA-camrs otherwise they know they can lose a lot of Business!! That's Social Media working for us Ha Ha
Lookn at vid, LED's 1 n 2 , 6 n 7 flashing not cuz of shorted motor. its cuz wromg motor installed. Press Mode on ESC 6 times , once INCR, wait for it to beep. its programmed. Turn off ESC, then turn on. Redo Calibration of TX and Rx. Turn off and on. Car will run. Error codes are available on Team Tekins Websight.
I actually read through the error codes. Went through with the hotwire to program it to the correct motor settings and still no luck. Sent it in to Tekin and they sent me a new one and its all good!
Which LED's flashes.. many people goes though the Hotwire first. Learn the onboard setup first. Make the RS beep and save setup. I still know if the LED's flashing say due to wrong motor. Chose.. email Tekins, ask Randy for help, he answer email the same day. How're you have to save setup. Hot wire just shows hidden files like boost and turbo setting. Been using Tekin product since '85.
Just had mine short out between the positive and negative battery posts on the esc board, followed all the directions to a T. Don’t usually have issues with soldering because I also do slot car drag racing also in USDR and MDRL yeah I know that isn’t a really good excuse but some of the chassis/motor jobs I’ve seen I could say more but I’m not gonna... however I did send out an email to tekin support so we’ll see what happens
I run 1/10th No Prep amongst a few other classes including unlimited with my IROC Camaro Mamba Monster Machine, Quick & Fast and easy to work with... I had nothing but issues with the Black Ed RS Pro & 3.5T Gen4 Eliminator... the ESC would heat up and then finally it fried, The ESC compared to just about every other I have tried was very user unfriendly... I shipped them the motor and esc, never got the esc back, got no support from Tekin... Not A Good Experience... I'll stick with my Castle and Trinity motors, Castle support is 5 stars!!!
Unfortunately I have to agree in a way. Tekin did give me pretty good support, repairing and/or sending me a new ESC the first time I had issues. After that I was on my own though. And you are absolutely correct, that ESC fried quickly. I know it wasn't originally designed for drag racing like this but there was a failure point that was way too early in the life of the ESC for me.
I run a xr10 pro legacy edition with that motor and my esc heats up a bit fast, but nothin another fan can’t fix. Just go back to the hobbywing or buy the legacy. It’s working great for me. And I’m using a max amps 7.4 175c battery.
Double check your solder connections on the motor. One phase with a high resistance will trip that fault on rs pro and rsx pro esc. Also I thought you could get data graphing on hobbywing when using pc but not phone/tablet.
I was told by Hobbywing that they currently do not have data log graphs. I'm sure they'll have it in the future but I don't think they do as of now. I double checked all of my connections, and soldered the motor back on 3 times with no luck unfortunately.
There is a difference in the RX8, it only runs in Dual Mode. I was told that means it only uses the sensors for startup of the motor and then switched to sensorless.
@@FullThrottleRC What is the difference between Sensored and D2 Dual Mode?
Sensored Mode operates by using the sensors in our brushelss motors to track the position of the rotor. Timing boost and turbo rely on these sensors to operate properly and can only be used if the ESC is set for Sensored Only Mode. D2 Dual Mode is our proprietary algorithm that uses the motor sensors for the first few thousand RPM which then transitions to Sensorless operation as the RPMs increase. Boost and Turbo can't be used and sometimes this D2 mode can increase the smoothness and efficiency of a modified setup and decrease operating temperatures.
@@FullThrottleRC I picked up a DR10 RTR today and I'm looking for info when I'm ready to replace it. I was looking at Trinity's drag motor and they recommend a 1/8 ESC.
@@sizemore1048 damn I got a 5700 and 7700 kv Castle creations mamba x and it couldn't take the RPMs I wanted to put in it and shot the ESC sucks but. In my main car I just threw a old slash VXL system in it and she ran away from the 5700 mamba X.😂
You have the esc to wrong motor type, not a short. The quick pit tune settings (pressing the buttons instead of the hotwire) MT stands for Motor Type not Timing. Set it for the first led (no reverse) or the third led (reverse with delay)
@@Crewchief227 I ended up sending this ESC back to Tekin and it was damaged, they replaced it. I wasn't able to modify any settings on it cause it was fried. The new one is working great now! And I don't leave the hot wire plugged in, its actually not even in the car.
I have a video on how I tune the Castle Mamba X ESC in my Front Engine Dragster, but I'm still learning this ESC so I don't feel I know enough yet to make a video on tuning with it.
Did you get a chance to try the motor on another ESC and see if it powered up fine? Seen this info posted on Jim Campbell's facebook page concerning sensor gap that may explain some of these issues: "...We are finding that a lot of the failures in Drag Racing are due to the rotor being too far away from the sensor board. This problem is exponentially amplified by the low turn motors used in Drag Racing, often with too much gear and timing, and the hundreds of amps they draw. A good analogy perhaps would be spool out your real car to rpm redline and then switch 2 spark plug wires... and see which side of the engine the rod comes out of first 😉 Typically we like to see rotor to sensor gap under 1mm. In Drag Racing they may need to be closer. We have found a few motors known to kill multiple esc's that were 1.5mm to 2.0mm gaps and clearly shimmed wrong. ..."
Tekin asked if I would send the motor over with the ESC so I never got a chance to try that out. I did check the sensor gap multiple times thought, and it was definitely under 1mm. I got it as close as I possible could without the rotor actually rubbing the sensors.
I've contacted Tekin and it looks like I'll be sending this one back to them to see what's up. I have a pretty cool idea, I think, to put a fan blowing some cool air on it.
I don't believe so. After some more testing I think something is wrong with the ESC though. I was able to try another motor and still got the same error.
FullThrottleRC yup that’s what happened to mine 2 times I got to send it back during the weekend it sucks cuz it happened during an event and my son lost lol they said it was my motor but I’m running a rx4 with the same car/motor and it’s holding up great they warranty the first one now I got to wait and see what’s goin to happen with the 2nd one sucks cuz it’s supposedly a new one that they sent me 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
I have the same ESC that I installed today. You can use your phone to connect. Most phones come with a normal usb to phone connection. You can use that instead of dragging the laptop around. I do finf the PC version to be way better. Logging is non existent on the phone. Esc's new today so I will keep messing with it.
The tunability is what makes these ESCs so good. No two cars are the same so you need to be able to make changes in the ESC to get the car to perform as best as possible. I don't thinks its possible to just have a plain ESC with set settings in these cars.
@@FullThrottleRC BEC brownouts, difficulties programming, things like that. Nothing impossible to overcome, just little hassles I shouldn't have to overcome in the first place.
I have always assumed because of their pricing on the equipment that it was too notch especially the way it’s bragged upon. If it’s that finicky , I’m not sure it would be good fit for me I’m definitely wiring/soldering savy but it didn’t take long for the magic smoke to come out of that one
@@Basshertz13 the power was definitely there. Of the 3 ESCs I've had in the car, this one woke it up big time! I never actually had any smoke come out of it though. Never any funny smells or signs of shorting.
I'm getting into drag racing right now, matter a fact I have two losi 22s coming in the mail if you can believe that lol. Anyway I love your channel bro you explain things great! Always excited to see what you are up to next my man. Later and good luck!
Thank you so much for the kind words!!
Yes...
I had a similar problem with my 1:24 Corvette. It used a brushed motor. Same exact problems.
I contributed my problems to the lack if gear reduction, and the esc could not keep up with the extra load the motor now sees with a much higher wheel speed.
Bottom line...the esc was ar fault even when using a 90c graphine 2 cell.
I'm still not sure exactly what happened. I had geared the car down like Tekin recommended, luckily they honored the warranty and sent me a new one and I haven't had any problems since.
Just FYI there is a known glitch on the Tekin black series with some motors if the rotor spacing from sensor board is too far it will skip and over heat. I had to send my unit in for warranty and took month to get back. Just play it safe don't go under 5.5 T motor.FYI if you use android you can plug it old get Hotwire to it. I use old tablet with mine works great.
Yeah after watching the video your ESC got so hot that the solder post start to melt on board same issue with mine on the Trinity Drag 3.5T. I had to warranty mine no other options also they don't want to replace the ESC so they might try to charge you for replacement $160. My suggestion is to get another motor maybe a Tekin combo :)
I'm not looking to pay for a replacement. If the warranty doesn't cover it after the website and the person I talked to from Tekin both said the ESC could handle the motor, I'll figure out something else to do. Kinda disappointed so far but I'm still holding out hope since so many people have good results with them.
I was using Tekin 3.5 and mine was under warranty. Don’t know how it happened but it quit. They would not cover under warranty.
it's because You don't have a UA-cam channel to Blast them on 😂 They'll definitely cover UA-camrs otherwise they know they can lose a lot of Business!! That's Social Media working for us Ha Ha
Lookn at vid, LED's 1 n 2 , 6 n 7 flashing not cuz of shorted motor. its cuz wromg motor installed. Press Mode on ESC 6 times , once INCR, wait for it to beep. its programmed. Turn off ESC, then turn on. Redo Calibration of TX and Rx. Turn off and on. Car will run. Error codes are available on Team Tekins Websight.
I actually read through the error codes. Went through with the hotwire to program it to the correct motor settings and still no luck. Sent it in to Tekin and they sent me a new one and its all good!
Which LED's flashes.. many people goes though the Hotwire first. Learn the onboard setup first. Make the RS beep and save setup. I still know if the LED's flashing say due to wrong motor. Chose.. email Tekins, ask Randy for help, he answer email the same day. How're you have to save setup. Hot wire just shows hidden files like boost and turbo setting. Been using Tekin product since '85.
Just had mine short out between the positive and negative battery posts on the esc board, followed all the directions to a T. Don’t usually have issues with soldering because I also do slot car drag racing also in USDR and MDRL yeah I know that isn’t a really good excuse but some of the chassis/motor jobs I’ve seen I could say more but I’m not gonna... however I did send out an email to tekin support so we’ll see what happens
They were pretty quick to respond when I contacted them. And I had a new ESC in a couple weeks. Hope they get it right for you!
I run 1/10th No Prep amongst a few other classes including unlimited with my IROC Camaro Mamba Monster Machine, Quick & Fast and easy to work with... I had nothing but issues with the Black Ed RS Pro & 3.5T Gen4 Eliminator... the ESC would heat up and then finally it fried, The ESC compared to just about every other I have tried was very user unfriendly... I shipped them the motor and esc, never got the esc back, got no support from Tekin... Not A Good Experience... I'll stick with my Castle and Trinity motors, Castle support is 5 stars!!!
Unfortunately I have to agree in a way. Tekin did give me pretty good support, repairing and/or sending me a new ESC the first time I had issues. After that I was on my own though. And you are absolutely correct, that ESC fried quickly. I know it wasn't originally designed for drag racing like this but there was a failure point that was way too early in the life of the ESC for me.
I run a xr10 pro legacy edition with that motor and my esc heats up a bit fast, but nothin another fan can’t fix. Just go back to the hobbywing or buy the legacy. It’s working great for me. And I’m using a max amps 7.4 175c battery.
I was looking bat those batteries to you like it?
My problem with the xr10 pro, like I mentioned, is I like to read the data log graphs to help with tuning. Hobbywing currently doesn't offer that.
hazards20001 yes! They are amazing batteries and put out sooo much power. I have a really fast 3.5t car. And it’s a DR10
Double check your solder connections on the motor. One phase with a high resistance will trip that fault on rs pro and rsx pro esc. Also I thought you could get data graphing on hobbywing when using pc but not phone/tablet.
I was told by Hobbywing that they currently do not have data log graphs. I'm sure they'll have it in the future but I don't think they do as of now. I double checked all of my connections, and soldered the motor back on 3 times with no luck unfortunately.
Do you have any way of checking the motor to see if it burnt it out when testing ?
@@Basshertz13 I can plug it back up to the old esc and see if it works
I recommend the RX8 same features 1/8th scale power
There is a difference in the RX8, it only runs in Dual Mode. I was told that means it only uses the sensors for startup of the motor and then switched to sensorless.
@@FullThrottleRC I must be misunderstanding because I have no problem programming timing or boost on my laptop throttle curves Etc
@@FullThrottleRC What is the difference between Sensored and D2 Dual Mode?
Sensored Mode operates by using the sensors in our brushelss motors to track the position of the rotor. Timing boost and turbo rely on these sensors to operate properly and can only be used if the ESC is set for Sensored Only Mode. D2 Dual Mode is our proprietary algorithm that uses the motor sensors for the first few thousand RPM which then transitions to Sensorless operation as the RPMs increase. Boost and Turbo can't be used and sometimes this D2 mode can increase the smoothness and efficiency of a modified setup and decrease operating temperatures.
@@rong648 I've never really used or looked into the D2 mode. I may have to check it out once I get everything else figured out.
@@FullThrottleRC I picked up a DR10 RTR today and I'm looking for info when I'm ready to replace it. I was looking at Trinity's drag motor and they recommend a 1/8 ESC.
I had a RS pro in a 2wd slash conversation and I some how blew the capacitor off
😳
I blew a cap on my first burn out
@@sizemore1048 damn I got a 5700 and 7700 kv Castle creations mamba x and it couldn't take the RPMs I wanted to put in it and shot the ESC sucks but. In my main car I just threw a old slash VXL system in it and she ran away from the 5700 mamba X.😂
You have the esc to wrong motor type, not a short. The quick pit tune settings (pressing the buttons instead of the hotwire) MT stands for Motor Type not Timing. Set it for the first led (no reverse) or the third led (reverse with delay)
Also don't leave your hotwire plugged in, even the BT version was never meant to be left plugged in.
@@Crewchief227 I ended up sending this ESC back to Tekin and it was damaged, they replaced it. I wasn't able to modify any settings on it cause it was fried. The new one is working great now! And I don't leave the hot wire plugged in, its actually not even in the car.
Did you ever get the car figured out with that tekin
Sent the ESC in to Tekin and they sent me a new one and it's been working fine
One used ESC for sale only used few times, practically new. Open to offers 😅
🤣🤣 I was seriously going to sell the Hobbywing but now I'm reconsidering. Maybe I need to keep it just in case
FullThrottleRC I’m a pretty new subscriber and love the content dude 👍🏼
Try the 10th scale Maclan esc
000000000000000000000000⁰
You got any ESC Basic or how to tune videos
I have a video on how I tune the Castle Mamba X ESC in my Front Engine Dragster, but I'm still learning this ESC so I don't feel I know enough yet to make a video on tuning with it.
I'm thinking of building my SC10 into a drag car.... Maybe
It's a fun adventure! I'd say jump into it!
Just be sure to check your local laws.anynofbtjem need to be based on a certain wheel base or chassis.
Did you get a chance to try the motor on another ESC and see if it powered up fine? Seen this info posted on Jim Campbell's facebook page concerning sensor gap that may explain some of these issues:
"...We are finding that a lot of the failures in Drag Racing are due to the rotor being too far away from the sensor board. This problem is exponentially amplified by the low turn motors used in Drag Racing, often with too much gear and timing, and the hundreds of amps they draw.
A good analogy perhaps would be spool out your real car to rpm redline and then switch 2 spark plug wires... and see which side of the engine the rod comes out of first 😉
Typically we like to see rotor to sensor gap under 1mm. In Drag Racing they may need to be closer. We have found a few motors known to kill multiple esc's that were 1.5mm to 2.0mm gaps and clearly shimmed wrong. ..."
Tekin asked if I would send the motor over with the ESC so I never got a chance to try that out. I did check the sensor gap multiple times thought, and it was definitely under 1mm. I got it as close as I possible could without the rotor actually rubbing the sensors.
You said your in Louisiana, we have a group of about 15 guys in new iberia. We run street races almost every other weekend
Awesome! I'm about 2 hours away from New Iberia but I'll have to look into making the trip one day!
@@FullThrottleRC absolutely man, look me up on facebook Sky Comeaux
Better watch out with the heat and put on a fan I went they 2 pros already and I wasn’t even pushing it customer service is good tho
I've contacted Tekin and it looks like I'll be sending this one back to them to see what's up. I have a pretty cool idea, I think, to put a fan blowing some cool air on it.
FullThrottleRC did u blow it up???
I don't believe so. After some more testing I think something is wrong with the ESC though. I was able to try another motor and still got the same error.
FullThrottleRC yup that’s what happened to mine 2 times I got to send it back during the weekend it sucks cuz it happened during an event and my son lost lol they said it was my motor but I’m running a rx4 with the same car/motor and it’s holding up great they warranty the first one now I got to wait and see what’s goin to happen with the 2nd one sucks cuz it’s supposedly a new one that they sent me 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
@@MarioMartinez-id4ee thanks for the heads up. I'll see what happens with it.
Graphs is on the way on the hobbywing
I talked to some people at Hobbywing and was told they would be eventually but couldn't get an idea of how long eventually would be
Is that hobbywing still for sale?
Not as of now. It'll probably be for sale in the near future. Follow me on Instagram, I'll probably post it there.
Damn i just bought this 1 and 2 other tekin escs!
I got it back from Tekin and back in the car, check out my latest video.
I have the same ESC that I installed today. You can use your phone to connect. Most phones come with a normal usb to phone connection. You can use that instead of dragging the laptop around. I do finf the PC version to be way better. Logging is non existent on the phone. Esc's new today so I will keep messing with it.
Good to know that I can hook it up to my phone in a pinch!
Dang it. I was hoping the no prep referred to the ESC. All these links and cards needed to program ECS's is getting old.
The tunability is what makes these ESCs so good. No two cars are the same so you need to be able to make changes in the ESC to get the car to perform as best as possible. I don't thinks its possible to just have a plain ESC with set settings in these cars.
Hook the motor up to the old esc and see what happens, that should tell you if its the motor or the esc
I tried out another motor on this esc and still nothing but I'll try that out as well
Was that your 3.5t trinity that possibly burned up?
Yes. After some more troubleshooting, I I'm not sure that the problem was the motor though.
I ordered same motor gonna try orion r8 extreme pro . I hope it can hang it's supposed to be a no limit esc .
hazards20001 dude, I put a xr10 pro legacy edition with my 3.5 trinity and it works great. I do recommend adding another fan pointing at it though
@@FullThrottleRC also on the description of the motor it says 1/8 scale esc is recommended.
I'm not a fan of Tekin ESCs
Any particular reason? Everyone has a preference, I like to try different things
@@FullThrottleRC BEC brownouts, difficulties programming, things like that. Nothing impossible to overcome, just little hassles I shouldn't have to overcome in the first place.
@@RFVCXR200R that makes sense. I haven't had any issues with programming yet, I'm going to see what happens with this ESC when it goes back to Tekin
I have always assumed because of their pricing on the equipment that it was too notch especially the way it’s bragged upon. If it’s that finicky , I’m not sure it would be good fit for me I’m definitely wiring/soldering savy but it didn’t take long for the magic smoke to come out of that one
@@Basshertz13 the power was definitely there. Of the 3 ESCs I've had in the car, this one woke it up big time! I never actually had any smoke come out of it though. Never any funny smells or signs of shorting.