One thing I noticed is that the woofer does not have a felt ring between it and the mdf. A felt or rubber ring will further improve damping and probably sealing between the cabinet and the speaker
I recently rebuilt my old Mackies HR824s.. Nichicon/WIMA caps, MUSES8920 op amps, Mundorf resistors, Vishay bridge rectifier, UP-OCC copper wiring.. etc. Im looking to add HS5 to my setup and also modify them. Curious which op amps you ended up replacing the original NJM4558 with? 'Im thinking MUSES8820 or LM4562 (more budget friendly) for replacement as they use the same for HS5/HS7/HS8
I also have the HR824 mk1 realy good monitors. with class a b amplifier. and have the msp5 also class a b . and have nichicon caps . but most new monitors like krk or tannoy and some adam,s have cheap chinese capacitors .. I never sell my hr824 :-) . sometimes I do modifications , but don,t think the hr824 or yamaha msp series need that . the are high end. yamaha HS series are more built for home studio,s
i wonder if that plastic bass port has its own resonance, and if it should be dampened around the outside. unless it's considered a rear port midrange exciter.
well done... didnt i see +/- regulators with TO-220 heatsinks. are those for the tone pre-amp? if yes, adding more high freq bypass caps might not be that helpful. cos the bipolars inside are in active regions. so PSRR is very high. and since there are no regulator for the power amp stage, adding more low esr electrolytic/poly caps are helpful. but not sure it will be audible tho. looking forward to your next upgrade.. :)
Thanks for watching. Those regulators are the dreaded 78XX and 79XX types, and no I didn't add additional bypass capacitors to the +-rails for the opamps. The .1uF red caps bypass the electrolytics in the signal path. My next upgrade will be to remove that regulator circuit and use lower noise regulators. The most significant change in the power supply are the 10,000uF caps and the bridge rectifier.
@@audioupgrades7759 oh... coupling caps... good idea! haha... those linear 78/79 are not that bad tho... and not sure you can do much more there. a pair of LDOs could be placed in front of them to "pre" regulate the inputs of the 78/79... this can lower the operating temp at least... and further reduce the ripples/noise... again not much you can do with the rectifier bridge itself... you can tap it off from the transformer and split the supply... one to the preamp and one to the 3886s... and good luck for finding those humongous caps. they must be Japanese low ESR caps. and they will cost you an arm and a leg... so why not put the smaller ones in parallel instead... OR just regulate it!!
@@XChaoticComposerX Yeah, there are several paths to this upgrade. I did the easiest and cheapest. I've also thought of using a SMPS power supply to regulate the amplifier power supply.
@@audioupgrades7759 oh... no... no... no... you paid bucks to get these linear! no audiophile in the world like switcher. so dont turn this into a car stereo/boomboxs. switching noise spectrum is TOO broad!
One thing I noticed is that the woofer does not have a felt ring between it and the mdf. A felt or rubber ring will further improve damping and probably sealing between the cabinet and the speaker
Yeah, you can use sealing tape on the baffle.
Hi, why did you use 10000uF caps for the amp when the stock ones are 4700uF? That is ok to do I guess?
hi which opamps did U used? I am going to repleace all 6pcs at yam hs80m and thinking on what will be safe ;) Thanx
I would very much like a build sheet or some more instructions on that, otherwise, great video and great project!
This mod is beyond DIY level. The circuit traces are very delicate on the boards. If you are a tech, then yeah you can handle it.
Is there a build sheet for this? I would love to find instructions on doing this upgrade myself! Thanks a ton and great videos!
Sorry, no...
I recently rebuilt my old Mackies HR824s.. Nichicon/WIMA caps, MUSES8920 op amps, Mundorf resistors, Vishay bridge rectifier, UP-OCC copper wiring.. etc. Im looking to add HS5 to my setup and also modify them.
Curious which op amps you ended up replacing the original NJM4558 with? 'Im thinking MUSES8820 or LM4562 (more budget friendly) for replacement as they use the same for HS5/HS7/HS8
I also have the HR824 mk1 realy good monitors. with class a b amplifier. and have the msp5 also class a b . and have nichicon caps . but most new monitors like krk or tannoy and some adam,s have cheap chinese capacitors .. I never sell my hr824 :-) . sometimes I do modifications , but don,t think the hr824 or yamaha msp series need that . the are high end. yamaha HS series are more built for home studio,s
LM4562
Thanks for the video. Is this a Class AB or a class D amp? Considering buying an HS series speaker.
It's a Class AB amp.
Have you considered or tried removing the grills from the twitters?
no
i wonder if that plastic bass port has its own resonance, and if it should be dampened around the outside. unless it's considered a rear port midrange exciter.
Damping the port cleans up the midrange a little. Use the adhesive foam on the outside.
My tweeters got burnt and i replaced it and immediately the a mplifier burnt it again,with flames what can I do..
But the woofer is working perfectly
The tweeter amplifier could be bad
Was there a fuse inside the HS7? Thanks for the video
Yes
are you familiar with removing the built in limiter on the amp of these monitors? supposedly it really really opens them up
Yes, it's not very difficult to remove.
@@audioupgrades7759 how do you do it?
well done...
didnt i see +/- regulators with TO-220 heatsinks. are those for the tone pre-amp?
if yes, adding more high freq bypass caps might not be that helpful. cos the bipolars inside are in active regions. so PSRR is very high.
and since there are no regulator for the power amp stage, adding more low esr electrolytic/poly caps are helpful. but not sure it will be audible tho.
looking forward to your next upgrade.. :)
Thanks for watching. Those regulators are the dreaded 78XX and 79XX types, and no I didn't add additional bypass capacitors to the +-rails for the opamps. The .1uF red caps bypass the electrolytics in the signal path. My next upgrade will be to remove that regulator circuit and use lower noise regulators. The most significant change in the power supply are the 10,000uF caps and the bridge rectifier.
@@audioupgrades7759 oh... coupling caps... good idea!
haha... those linear 78/79 are not that bad tho... and not sure you can do much more there. a pair of LDOs could be placed in front of them to "pre" regulate the inputs of the 78/79... this can lower the operating temp at least... and further reduce the ripples/noise...
again not much you can do with the rectifier bridge itself... you can tap it off from the transformer and split the supply... one to the preamp and one to the 3886s...
and good luck for finding those humongous caps. they must be Japanese low ESR caps. and they will cost you an arm and a leg... so why not put the smaller ones in parallel instead... OR just regulate it!!
@@XChaoticComposerX Yeah, there are several paths to this upgrade. I did the easiest and cheapest. I've also thought of using a SMPS power supply to regulate the amplifier power supply.
@@audioupgrades7759 oh... no... no... no...
you paid bucks to get these linear! no audiophile in the world like switcher. so dont turn this into a car stereo/boomboxs. switching noise spectrum is TOO broad!
@@audioupgrades7759 wont touch it with a ten foot pole...
Pioneer HPM 100 speakers in back?:)
Those were the HPM 60s fully modified and updated crossovers, real wood veneer on the exterior, damping of the cabinet and new input terminals
where did you buy the new foam?
try partsexpress