My high trim switch seems a bit unstable. Just touching the switch causes the tweeter response to change. It may be a short. Anyone else run into that problem? Thanks for the teardown. I’m going to open it up and check it out.
One thing I noticed is that the woofer does not have a felt ring between it and the mdf. A felt or rubber ring will further improve damping and probably sealing between the cabinet and the speaker
Can you link to the parts you used? I bought a used one and its a bit hollow and feels like there are some echos. I have no technical skills or way of knowing what is a good quality piece or if the numbers mh need to be the same or not.
the stock sound on these is, sad to say, a bit atrocious. like all kinds of wrong. it can make a million dollar studio recording sound like a 5 dollar one. after the mod it is harder to hear any problems. it's a little bit of a mystery why yamaha did this. they even hard wired a limiter into their amp. at least they could have put in a switch for "crappy mode" for those who believe in fighting with their monitors.
i wonder if that plastic bass port has its own resonance, and if it should be dampened around the outside. unless it's considered a rear port midrange exciter.
i hear less muddiness and boxiness in the low-mids and mids which opens up the mid-highs giving clearer presence now when there is no masking going on. I'm curious what other people hear tho. Great work! thinking of doing some mods myself now.
@@easydoes-k9f thanks I eventually figured out the 18 awg could handle 300 watts rms. It's there a general rule about how much overhead you would want?
I want to buy these monitors for my studio, but I'm wondering... does this mod influence the original function of these boxes? Does it make them miss any features?
I really enjoy your video! You did the same as I did on my Polk S20 by putting better parts on the crossover and I changed the Polyfill for acoustic foam to better dampened the cabinet. Sounds more controlled and refined now. Thanks !
Hey man, how did you know the value of the inductor? Did you take it out and measure or do you have any formula based on those capacitors and resistors?
I'm buying a used SP-C21 tomorrow. I'll be sure to inspect the crossover and try to replace the caps and inductor when I have the time. Thanks for inspiring me man.
Amazing work! You mentioned additional caps on the input board that wasn't included by Yamaha. Those are C312 C313 C325 C325 C347 C348 which are not even listed on it's Service Manual. What's the value you've used for those caps? Thank you!
I recently rebuilt my old Mackies HR824s.. Nichicon/WIMA caps, MUSES8920 op amps, Mundorf resistors, Vishay bridge rectifier, UP-OCC copper wiring.. etc. Im looking to add HS5 to my setup and also modify them. Curious which op amps you ended up replacing the original NJM4558 with? 'Im thinking MUSES8820 or LM4562 (more budget friendly) for replacement as they use the same for HS5/HS7/HS8
I also have the HR824 mk1 realy good monitors. with class a b amplifier. and have the msp5 also class a b . and have nichicon caps . but most new monitors like krk or tannoy and some adam,s have cheap chinese capacitors .. I never sell my hr824 :-) . sometimes I do modifications , but don,t think the hr824 or yamaha msp series need that . the are high end. yamaha HS series are more built for home studio,s
Super upgrade .. No matter the design if the parts end up cheap in a Chinese factory what's the frigging point! A. Jones should take a good look at how Pioneer cheaps him out! May be that's why he moved on!.
China is not really the problem. If you got money they can give high quality products. The problem is Western or any other countries' brands' obsession with cheap parts.
Nice vid but it's better to set more precise scale for the frequency response, 5 or at least 10 dB in one cell so the graph will become more informative.
Have you done the mods on the SP-FS52 yet ? I just picked up a pair for $120 so I don’t mind spending a few dollars on modification and maybe lining them with some NoRez dampening material Been watching GR Research on crossover network modifications. I think I’m ready to tackle that now
I change the capasitor and resistors of SP FS52 and it sounds great. I was not able to measure the inductor. Remaining parts I changed with audio quality We need 1.8uf,15uf,150uf,1.8ohm 10W,3.9ohm 10w, 2.2ohm 10W. I kept both inductors unchanged. It's sounds great
@@ranjithps3303 they LCR meter so I’ll be able to measure the inductor. But I know when you switch over from an iron core inductor to an air core inductor , The air core and doctors are many times much larger on top of that using thicker gauge wire. And switching over from electrolytic capacitors to poly caps are many times larger and film cabs. Probably when finished it will have to be made on a new board and will not fit back through the speaker whole I’ll probably have to mounted outside on the back.
@@coldfinger459sub0 I didn't replace iron core inductor and the air core inductor,other than that I replaced everything. It is really small gap to put it in. My fs52 is 7 years old and the screws are all rusted,have to replace that. Response is entirely different now, the capasitor was so week that when I pulled it just got ripped out.
Do you ever dropped your hs7?? i wondering how durable they are , i dropped my hs5 (not too high , about 6inch maybe but its knocked to hard ceramic floor) it still work but i dont know if it something broken or maybe loose inside it
mine too, from like two feet, also got a accidental candle burn on one side... somethimes i think on get another set of monitors but, buuut... this Yamaha (hs8) still working well, and after room calibration with sonarworks... not need of anything else
They are called bucking magnets, and they are not necessarily to make safe for use around a CRT. (They don't necessarily provide protection ether.) Some manufactures use them for enhancing the magnetic field or something, to enhance the bass driver. My JBL Studio 590's have them on the bass drivers and I really doubt it's so you can put the speaker next to a CRT.
Cool! I'd like to know if anyone has modified the Micca Mb42's, i brought the regular ones like two years ago, they are decent speakers but they could definetelly use a crossover, the only problem being that Micca won't ship that specific component outside of the US so my only options are: A) buid a crossover on my own ( i am hesitating of this because i have 0 experience doing that) B) look online for some other crossover. I hope that anyone can help me. Great video by the way
The upgraded crossover incorporates a zobel network for the woofer and 18 db/octave tweeter crossover. Your best bet is to find someone who knows how to modify crossovers.
Hey man, I would love your input on something.. One of my HS7 has a a bit of a frequency rattle with some bass instruments/frequencies. I've managed to narrow it down and it's neither of the drivers. I've discovered that if I press my hand against the black spoilers that come out it stops resonating. I wonder if something could be loose, maybe a set of screws that need to be tighten ?
Hi - thanks for the video. I just bought this speaker and notice the muddiness of the lower frequencies you mention. Could you share the parts list for the replacement components? Any challenges mounting the air core inductor in place of the iron core inductor? Looks like some zip ties is worked for you. Thanks!
@@audioupgrades7759 Thank you. I ended up replacing the tweeter with a recommended upgrade (Peerless by Tymphany BC25TG15-04) but left the cross over as it was. I applied a little equalization to up the 500 to 4000 Hz amplitude by 2 to 3 dB and now the dialog is more clear to my old ears.
@@dennissmith9664 Dennis Murphy had a simple mod by adding 2R2 and 3.9uF to the tweeter if you want to try that www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/222977-mods-improve-andrew-jones-pioneer-speakers-post6112256.html
@@daijoubu4529 Hi - I was confused by the Dennis Murphy mods for the bookshelf speakers where he recommended not using a resistor on the SP-BS22-LR tweeters, but re-reading the link you provided I realized my mistake. Last night I added the capacitor and it made a huge improvement to the high frequency sounds. I am now running without the equalizer adjustments and a level just +2dB produces much better and easier to hear dialog. Thanks!
hi which opamps did U used? I am going to repleace all 6pcs at yam hs80m and thinking on what will be safe ;) Thanx
Hi, why did you use 10000uF caps for the amp when the stock ones are 4700uF? That is ok to do I guess?
My high trim switch seems a bit unstable. Just touching the switch causes the tweeter response to change. It may be a short. Anyone else run into that problem? Thanks for the teardown. I’m going to open it up and check it out.
One thing I noticed is that the woofer does not have a felt ring between it and the mdf. A felt or rubber ring will further improve damping and probably sealing between the cabinet and the speaker
Yeah, you can use sealing tape on the baffle.
Have you considered or tried removing the grills from the twitters?
no
Parts list for this?
Can you link to the parts you used? I bought a used one and its a bit hollow and feels like there are some echos. I have no technical skills or way of knowing what is a good quality piece or if the numbers mh need to be the same or not.
You can find the inductor at partsexpress.com and the cap at mouser.com
the stock sound on these is, sad to say, a bit atrocious. like all kinds of wrong. it can make a million dollar studio recording sound like a 5 dollar one. after the mod it is harder to hear any problems. it's a little bit of a mystery why yamaha did this. they even hard wired a limiter into their amp. at least they could have put in a switch for "crappy mode" for those who believe in fighting with their monitors.
I'm not sure what recording people hear when they mix. I can't listen to the stock unit.
i wonder if that plastic bass port has its own resonance, and if it should be dampened around the outside. unless it's considered a rear port midrange exciter.
Damping the port cleans up the midrange a little. Use the adhesive foam on the outside.
What Is The Best Respray Black?
You can remove the vinyl wrap and use whatever pattern that you like.
i hear less muddiness and boxiness in the low-mids and mids which opens up the mid-highs giving clearer presence now when there is no masking going on. I'm curious what other people hear tho. Great work! thinking of doing some mods myself now.
Was there a fuse inside the HS7? Thanks for the video
Yes
The quality of the transient reproduction is dramatically better with the modified speaker! Well done! By the way: which OP amps were used?
I think they were the LM4562s
A new bridge rectifier wont make any difference... thats voodoo...
My tweeters got burnt and i replaced it and immediately the a mplifier burnt it again,with flames what can I do.. But the woofer is working perfectly
The tweeter amplifier could be bad
I've blown a driver on the BR bookshelf speaker. Do you know a 4 inch driver i could replace it with?
You would have to replace both. Measure the parameters of the good one.
Anyone e know what gauge the new inductor is? 14 or 18 awg? Huge difference in price. Thanks.
18ga
@@easydoes-k9f thanks I eventually figured out the 18 awg could handle 300 watts rms. It's there a general rule about how much overhead you would want?
I want to buy these monitors for my studio, but I'm wondering... does this mod influence the original function of these boxes? Does it make them miss any features?
What DC voltage does the power supply put out?
+ _ 29.4V and + - 15V
Pioneer HPM 100 speakers in back?:)
Those were the HPM 60s fully modified and updated crossovers, real wood veneer on the exterior, damping of the cabinet and new input terminals
I really enjoy your video! You did the same as I did on my Polk S20 by putting better parts on the crossover and I changed the Polyfill for acoustic foam to better dampened the cabinet. Sounds more controlled and refined now. Thanks !
can the front Yamaha logo LED plate be taken out? or is that glued to the MDF case?
You might not want to try and remove it.
Thinking abount the same thing rn. I kinda want to replace the LED Colour to make it fit my setup more ..
I know these are highly regarded, but, man, that is one cheap-ass mid-bass driver. Yamaha cost is probably $8-$10, tops.
Hey man, how did you know the value of the inductor? Did you take it out and measure or do you have any formula based on those capacitors and resistors?
measured
@@easydoes-k9f nice, thanks man
Thanks for the video. Is this a Class AB or a class D amp? Considering buying an HS series speaker.
It's a Class AB amp.
can we have a demo of before and after mod?
I'm buying a used SP-C21 tomorrow. I'll be sure to inspect the crossover and try to replace the caps and inductor when I have the time. Thanks for inspiring me man.
Thanks for this video, now i can see that i can safely screw into the sides <3
are you familiar with removing the built in limiter on the amp of these monitors? supposedly it really really opens them up
Yes, it's not very difficult to remove.
@@audioupgrades7759 how do you do it?
Amazing work! You mentioned additional caps on the input board that wasn't included by Yamaha. Those are C312 C313 C325 C325 C347 C348 which are not even listed on it's Service Manual. What's the value you've used for those caps? Thank you!
They are 100uF on the +-15V rails going to the op amps.
I recently rebuilt my old Mackies HR824s.. Nichicon/WIMA caps, MUSES8920 op amps, Mundorf resistors, Vishay bridge rectifier, UP-OCC copper wiring.. etc. Im looking to add HS5 to my setup and also modify them. Curious which op amps you ended up replacing the original NJM4558 with? 'Im thinking MUSES8820 or LM4562 (more budget friendly) for replacement as they use the same for HS5/HS7/HS8
I also have the HR824 mk1 realy good monitors. with class a b amplifier. and have the msp5 also class a b . and have nichicon caps . but most new monitors like krk or tannoy and some adam,s have cheap chinese capacitors .. I never sell my hr824 :-) . sometimes I do modifications , but don,t think the hr824 or yamaha msp series need that . the are high end. yamaha HS series are more built for home studio,s
LM4562
I have a pair of HS7s. Where can I get this done?
You would have to send the speakers out to me.
where did you buy the new foam?
try partsexpress
Where did the body of the music go on the modified one? Something sounds terribly wrong with it now.
The removal of reflections inside the unit with upgraded dampening materials I suspect. I think the separation and detail is much better.
Thanks son!!👀👍🏽
I would very much like a build sheet or some more instructions on that, otherwise, great video and great project!
This mod is beyond DIY level. The circuit traces are very delicate on the boards. If you are a tech, then yeah you can handle it.
Super upgrade .. No matter the design if the parts end up cheap in a Chinese factory what's the frigging point! A. Jones should take a good look at how Pioneer cheaps him out! May be that's why he moved on!.
China is not really the problem. If you got money they can give high quality products. The problem is Western or any other countries' brands' obsession with cheap parts.
Nice vid but it's better to set more precise scale for the frequency response, 5 or at least 10 dB in one cell so the graph will become more informative.
Main upgrade is Inductor coil, looked iron coil low end part, changed with air coil high quality wiring. Good video.
Have you done the mods on the SP-FS52 yet ? I just picked up a pair for $120 so I don’t mind spending a few dollars on modification and maybe lining them with some NoRez dampening material Been watching GR Research on crossover network modifications. I think I’m ready to tackle that now
I change the capasitor and resistors of SP FS52 and it sounds great. I was not able to measure the inductor. Remaining parts I changed with audio quality We need 1.8uf,15uf,150uf,1.8ohm 10W,3.9ohm 10w, 2.2ohm 10W. I kept both inductors unchanged. It's sounds great
@@ranjithps3303 they LCR meter so I’ll be able to measure the inductor. But I know when you switch over from an iron core inductor to an air core inductor , The air core and doctors are many times much larger on top of that using thicker gauge wire. And switching over from electrolytic capacitors to poly caps are many times larger and film cabs. Probably when finished it will have to be made on a new board and will not fit back through the speaker whole I’ll probably have to mounted outside on the back.
@@coldfinger459sub0 I didn't replace iron core inductor and the air core inductor,other than that I replaced everything. It is really small gap to put it in. My fs52 is 7 years old and the screws are all rusted,have to replace that. Response is entirely different now, the capasitor was so week that when I pulled it just got ripped out.
Do you have to start with the rings/speakers or could you start by removing the amp first (and disconnect the drivers from that side)?
Yes, but it's more difficult to disconnect the wires from the speakers.
Love the video, but if I change the tweeter type do I need to have a diffrent crossover or can I just mod it like you did yours.
You would have to redesign the tweeter section of the crossover.
@@easydoes-k9f thanks. Im still learning the basics, I appreciate your response.
What were your thoughts? Did you enjoy the monitors more after the upgrades?
For critical listening the upgraded unit sounds more accurate.
Is there a build sheet for this? I would love to find instructions on doing this upgrade myself! Thanks a ton and great videos!
Sorry, no...
may I have the size of the box?
210mm x 332mm x 284mm
Do you ever dropped your hs7?? i wondering how durable they are , i dropped my hs5 (not too high , about 6inch maybe but its knocked to hard ceramic floor) it still work but i dont know if it something broken or maybe loose inside it
dropped mine coup[le of times, dont worry
@@lachlancameron3528 It deps on how it lands.
mine too, from like two feet, also got a accidental candle burn on one side... somethimes i think on get another set of monitors but, buuut... this Yamaha (hs8) still working well, and after room calibration with sonarworks... not need of anything else
For me the bass port tube broke from the middle, but can simply glue back
Double magnate in 2019 pioneer gives double magnate?
They are called bucking magnets, and they are not necessarily to make safe for use around a CRT. (They don't necessarily provide protection ether.) Some manufactures use them for enhancing the magnetic field or something, to enhance the bass driver. My JBL Studio 590's have them on the bass drivers and I really doubt it's so you can put the speaker next to a CRT.
Cool! I'd like to know if anyone has modified the Micca Mb42's, i brought the regular ones like two years ago, they are decent speakers but they could definetelly use a crossover, the only problem being that Micca won't ship that specific component outside of the US so my only options are: A) buid a crossover on my own ( i am hesitating of this because i have 0 experience doing that) B) look online for some other crossover. I hope that anyone can help me. Great video by the way
The upgraded crossover incorporates a zobel network for the woofer and 18 db/octave tweeter crossover. Your best bet is to find someone who knows how to modify crossovers.
@@audioupgrades7759 i see, Is there risk of ruining the speakers?
@@lamecasuelas2 No really if you do everything correctly.
Hey man, I would love your input on something.. One of my HS7 has a a bit of a frequency rattle with some bass instruments/frequencies. I've managed to narrow it down and it's neither of the drivers. I've discovered that if I press my hand against the black spoilers that come out it stops resonating. I wonder if something could be loose, maybe a set of screws that need to be tighten ?
There is a row of screws if you look down into the fins of the heatsink. Check and see if those are tight.
@@audioupgrades7759 I have a question. Is this a class AB or class D amp?
Hey, i don't know if you gonna reply to this but i have the same problem since today. Did you fix it somehow?
It's a class AB amp. Class D amps are much lighter weight and don't need a large power transformer.
Hi - thanks for the video. I just bought this speaker and notice the muddiness of the lower frequencies you mention. Could you share the parts list for the replacement components? Any challenges mounting the air core inductor in place of the iron core inductor? Looks like some zip ties is worked for you. Thanks!
Hi Dennis, the air core inductor is .80mH and the red capacitor is 10 uF. The coil is glued with hot melt glue.
@@audioupgrades7759 Thank you. I ended up replacing the tweeter with a recommended upgrade (Peerless by Tymphany BC25TG15-04) but left the cross over as it was. I applied a little equalization to up the 500 to 4000 Hz amplitude by 2 to 3 dB and now the dialog is more clear to my old ears.
@@dennissmith9664 Dennis Murphy had a simple mod by adding 2R2 and 3.9uF to the tweeter if you want to try that www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/222977-mods-improve-andrew-jones-pioneer-speakers-post6112256.html
@@daijoubu4529 Hi - I was confused by the Dennis Murphy mods for the bookshelf speakers where he recommended not using a resistor on the SP-BS22-LR tweeters, but re-reading the link you provided I realized my mistake. Last night I added the capacitor and it made a huge improvement to the high frequency sounds. I am now running without the equalizer adjustments and a level just +2dB produces much better and easier to hear dialog. Thanks!
Hi - One more question - did you change the crossover design in this video, or simply replace the components with higher quality parts? Thanks.