Going to remove all the hallway tile so when I have hardwood installed it’s the same level as the bedrooms. Always hated the color of the tile anyway so this is a great excuse to remove it. I love demo - SO SATISFYING. I’m a 79 year old lady still love doing what I can myself. I’ll have someone else lay the floors but thx for this video. Now I just need the chisel for my hammer drill.
My 16 year old son is gonna be busy in the next couple of days. I’m not paying 600 for demo and a 1300 dollar install for a 220 sqft job. These comments are amazing. Thanks for the content.
I had a basement quote to demo a 800 square foot basement of 8k. Me and my brother did it in 2 days with 2 bins total 800$, not including pizza and beer :)
Just bought a house in Puerto Rico where most old houses are cement. This is so helpful and money saving. So ready for my projects. Thanks for this video. You rock !!!!
Great video thank you......I used a rental makita probably 3 times the size you did. Used a little bit different bit.....The tile would not come loose ...it would splitter and consequently leave no crack to insert the bit............again..........I did not fracture the tile ( live in a condo second floor). Any suggestion for another way ????? Thank you so much !!!!!!!!
You need to hit the title first with a hammer to fracture it. If you live on the second floor you probably have a wood subfloor with some type of backer board. It’s going to be slightly different to remove. Try getting under the backer board with a large pry bar to break it loose. Good luck
Great "how to video". Gonna impress the contractors with my knowledge for my bathroom remodel. If they don't know about this technique, I'm not gonna hire them!
Exactly what I needed. Trying to get very old tile out of a kitchen and it’s like trying to break granite. I have a hammer drill and I’m about to break up the tiles put the hammer drill to good use.
Good video. I was poking around looking for some magic way to remove just one tile, at two different places. When they set them when they did the entire floor there was a couple places where they were very slack about getting the corners to meet at the same level. I reckon just use your method while being very careful not to damage the surrounding tile. I know! If it gets real scary I'll close my eyes.
Great video. We are taking tile off of out 1/2 bath and our screened in porch. So your video is a great help. Quick question. The screened in porch in our house was built on top of existing tile. These tiles extend out about 5 inches on the outside perimeter of the porch. When we remove the old tile do you think that it is practical to cut the tile around the porch and leave the existing tile sitting under the walls of the porch? Or do you think that we will end up having to pull the tile from underneath? Not sure if my explanation is clear. We are a bit nervous since we've never tackled this before. But the old tile is so bad and raised in places and needs replacing. Thanks for your consideration.
Are you talking about mastic and redgard. It might be harder to remove. You can still use the same method. It might take longer. Let me know how it goes.
Thanks for doing this video. This is something that I want to attempt, I'm a complete novice, but looks like a small enough project I can get through slowly and carefully for a first timer. What did you call the drill you used, is it a hammer drill with a chisel bit? What I want to accomplish is to remove all the old tile in my laundry room. The original tile was not laid down properly by the previous homeowner and the tile has come loose on most of the floor. I want to remove all the tile, end result would be to paint the concrete floor rather than replace the tiles. What do you use to smooth out the concrete and prep for applying the paint? Thanks so much again!!
It’s a rotary hammer drill that has a chisel setting on it. This is the one I have Help me decide on this product: Makita HR2475 1" Rotary Hammer, accepts SDS-PLUS bits (D-handle) a.co/d/1xxV2Nt
This is the hammer drill I have. the chisel bits are made to work with this type of drill. it's an SDS-Plus type chuck. Here is the link www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-8-Amp-1-in-Corded-SDS-Plus-Concrete-Masonry-AVT-Rotary-Hammer-Drill-with-4-1-2-in-Corded-Angle-Grinder-with-Hard-Case-HR2641X1/206058492
Breaking up the tile in a small area is fine, but in larger areas it becomes a nightmare. Busted tile is extremely heavy and sharp, and you have to take that into consideration with your cleanup. Most contractor bags are rated for like 50 or 60 lbs max which means it doesn't take much tile debris to hit that threshold, not to mention those sharp pieces will slice through those bags like butter. For my home renovation project I was able to get whole pieces of tile up in about 30 seconds with a roto hammer. Less mess and less space taken up with debris
Thats great if the tile wasn’t mortared down very good. In most cases they don’t come out in one piece. You usually have to use 2 contractors bags so they don’t cut through as easy or use 5 gallon buckets to take them out of the house
i come from a place where contractors don't use standard methods for tiling (e.g not using toothed trowels and using a butter spread method, thickset) due to the concrete floors being uneven. It is a cascade of laziness or incompetence I do not know. I am planning to do the tile removal by myself but i'm not confident that i would be able to remove the tile adhesives smoothly. I'm in a dilemma should i just remove the tiles and spread self levelling cement ? I saw demo work at my neighbours and it took 3 workers with rotary hammers almost a month to remove 1800sqft of tiles and tile adhesive. The result was a horribly scarred floor.
It all depends on how good the person installed the floor. I’ve never had a tile floor in a bathroom take me more that 2 to 4 hours to remove. Some times there are hard spots where the mortar is still sticking up slightly and the floor is scared up from the chisel. Just use self leveling cement and that usually fills in the voids and hides the mortar and having the floor scarred up is good for the self leveling compound to stick to. Even though you need to use a primer. Most times I need to raise the floor back up anyway to match the floor leading out of a bathroom.
@TheUltimateHandymanKyle thank you for the advice. For further context I live in a hot and humid tropical country so although i love watching videos like yours I still have to filter out the extra steps due to the fact that we have less requirements for extreme temperature differences.
I know that this video is a couple of years old. May I ask what kind of roto hammer did you use (i.e. sds plus/max, 3 joules etc) and the width of that chisel. Thanks.
I think it's this one. Im not sure what chisel size I used. It was about 2.5" to 3" wide www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-8-Amp-1-in-Corded-SDS-Plus-Concrete-Masonry-AVT-Anti-Vibration-Technology-Rotary-Hammer-Drill-with-Handle-Hard-Case-HR2641/206040966?g_store=&source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-RM-RMP-GGL-D25P-Multi-NA-MAKITA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-MK884559001-27236-NBR-35-NA-VNT-FY24_Makita_D25P_AON_CPT&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-RM-RMP-GGL-D25P-Multi-NA-MAKITA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-MK884559001-27236-NBR-35-NA-VNT-FY24_Makita_D25P_AON_CPT-71700000119307611--&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAolLu99l3o0W7Xv60frk7OSbNJVNn&gclid=CjwKCAjwl6-3BhBWEiwApN6_kuATMXVPFNwEqXJHoFlxUz_RKP1U7RvRNPR6YPHfdByEVf1zwGBl0xoCZSsQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Chisel looks to be 3”. I can’t day for sure but based on tool size and that chisel it looks to be SDS plus which are the most common at big box stores. I know you weren’t looking for a response from a random so much as the vid maker but as you mentioned, it’s an old video so who knows if the maker will notice and get back to you. I’ve done my fair share of tile floor demos though I have moved in to new build work in the last 3 years or so.
I just did this in my bathroom but it was way harder than the video. I was removing slate tiles and I think that might have something to do with the difficulty….whew!
Question: do you have plywood underneath that? I want to replace the tiles in my foyer and they are sitting on a layer of plywood, followed by what seems to be 1 1/2 layer of concrete
There was no plywood. The tile was on the concrete slab. Someone must have used the plywood to rase the level of the tile to match the floor next to it. Rip all that plywood out and get down to the concrete sub floor. Then you can use self leveling cement to raise the floor back up to where the tile will be flush with the floor next to it. You will have to calculate how much to raise the floor using the thickness of the new flooring.
As long as it’s a thin layers it shouldn’t be a problem. Not sure why that’s happening. You can pour a thin layer of self leveling cement over the slab. That will fill in the uneven floor and make it level for laying the new floor.
Are you putting tiles that look like wood? You can put redgard as a crack prevention membrane on the concrete floor make sure to follow all directions on the bucket. Basically it stops cracks the may form in the slab and keeps them from transferring through to the tile. Now if your slab is older and stable and hasn’t seem much moving or cracking then you could tile directly on the concrete.
I left it on so I could use it. I was replacing it anyway. Sometimes I keep the old toilet bowl around and if I need to go I just set it back on the pipe.
Yes remove the toilet. The one in the video was being replaced and I didn’t care if it got damaged. l like to leave them on as long as possible to be able to use the bathroom if needed.
Hmm. Some short sighted Victorian person layed the ceramic tiles into the concrete fire hearth base so that they form part of the fire hearth. It wouldn't be a problem except that it's raised above the level of surrounding floorboards so I can't lay an new oak floor over. This solution will not work for me therefore.
@TheUltimateHandymanKyle I'm literally doing it right now on a renovation for a home I just purchased. Even my 4 LB hammer sometimes has trouble breaking it. To see your 2 LB break through so many so easily tells me that this was a very cheap ceramic tile.
Don't fool yourself. Most tile if installed properly will not be this easy to remove. Better get your grinder out of the garage, you're gonna need it to grind down properly installed thin set mortar.
I’ve removed a lot of tile and it’s usually the same. Sometimes it might be slightly harder to remove but it always comes out like this. I’ve never used a grinder to remove the mortar. Usually if there are some stubborn spots that are left after removal I use self leveling compound to fill in voids or cover up slightly raised pieces of thin set.
Pro Tip- wet the floor before chiseling the thin set. It really helps keep the dust down. Nice vid bro.
Thanks for the tip. I’ll definitely try that next time
The hammer function on the drill is life changing 🙌
Yes it’s very helpful
Going to remove all the hallway tile so when I have hardwood installed it’s the same level as the bedrooms. Always hated the color of the tile anyway so this is a great excuse to remove it. I love demo - SO SATISFYING. I’m a 79 year old lady still love doing what I can myself. I’ll have someone else lay the floors but thx for this video. Now I just need the chisel for my hammer drill.
Wow! That’s impressive at 79. You must be in great shape. This is hard work. I hope to be able to still do this kind of work when I’m your age.
My 16 year old son is gonna be busy in the next couple of days. I’m not paying 600 for demo and a 1300 dollar install for a 220 sqft job. These comments are amazing. Thanks for the content.
Sounds great! It always good to save money
I had a basement quote to demo a 800 square foot basement of 8k. Me and my brother did it in 2 days with 2 bins total 800$, not including pizza and beer :)
About to face this in our remodel. ive rented a impact hammer in the past and it was a nightmare. They glued carpet to mastic. Thank for the advice.
Just bought a house in Puerto Rico where most old houses are cement. This is so helpful and money saving. So ready for my projects. Thanks for this video. You rock !!!!
Thanks. Good luck with your projects
Here for the same thing chrystian!!
Thank you for posting this! Super helpful and will help with our own project! Grateful for you!
Glad it was helpful! Good luck with your project
Great video thank you......I used a rental makita probably 3 times the size you did. Used a little bit different bit.....The tile would not come loose ...it would splitter and consequently leave no crack to insert the bit............again..........I did not fracture the tile ( live in a condo second floor). Any suggestion for another way ????? Thank you so much !!!!!!!!
You need to hit the title first with a hammer to fracture it. If you live on the second floor you probably have a wood subfloor with some type of backer board. It’s going to be slightly different to remove. Try getting under the backer board with a large pry bar to break it loose. Good luck
Great "how to video". Gonna impress the contractors with my knowledge for my bathroom remodel. If they don't know about this technique, I'm not gonna hire them!
You should do the demo yourself and save some money.
Exactly what I needed. Trying to get very old tile out of a kitchen and it’s like trying to break granite. I have a hammer drill and I’m about to break up the tiles put the hammer drill to good use.
Good luck
Thanks man. I wuz trying to do it w/a 4" chisel and it was taking a while....
No problem. How’s the removal going?
Good video. I was poking around looking for some magic way to remove just one tile, at two different places. When they set them when they did the entire floor there was a couple places where they were very slack about getting the corners to meet at the same level. I reckon just use your method while being very careful not to damage the surrounding tile. I know! If it gets real scary I'll close my eyes.
You might want to remove the grout around the tile that’s being removed. That way it doesn’t crack or chip the good tile next to it.
Thinking about doing this in our downstairs bathroom. Thanks for the info - it doesn't look too difficult with the right tools.
Good luck with your project
Great video. We are taking tile off of out 1/2 bath and our screened in porch. So your video is a great help.
Quick question. The screened in porch in our house was built on top of existing tile. These tiles extend out about 5 inches on the outside perimeter of the porch.
When we remove the old tile do you think that it is practical to cut the tile around the porch and leave the existing tile sitting under the walls of the porch? Or do you think that we will end up having to pull the tile from underneath? Not sure if my explanation is clear. We are a bit nervous since we've never tackled this before. But the old tile is so bad and raised in places and needs replacing.
Thanks for your consideration.
I would cut the tile off at the porch wall and leave it under the there.
How about if the tile adhesive is that glue plus with the rubber in it? Or waterproofing membrane
Are you talking about mastic and redgard. It might be harder to remove. You can still use the same method. It might take longer. Let me know how it goes.
Thanks for doing this video. This is something that I want to attempt, I'm a complete novice, but looks like a small enough project I can get through slowly and carefully for a first timer. What did you call the drill you used, is it a hammer drill with a chisel bit? What I want to accomplish is to remove all the old tile in my laundry room. The original tile was not laid down properly by the previous homeowner and the tile has come loose on most of the floor. I want to remove all the tile, end result would be to paint the concrete floor rather than replace the tiles. What do you use to smooth out the concrete and prep for applying the paint? Thanks so much again!!
It’s a rotary hammer drill that has a chisel setting on it. This is the one I have Help me decide on this product: Makita HR2475 1" Rotary Hammer, accepts SDS-PLUS bits (D-handle) a.co/d/1xxV2Nt
You might have to poor a concrete resurfacer on the floor. When you take out the tile it’s going to leave some fine chisel marks
Is that a standard hammer drill with a chisel bit? Do i need a special chisel bit or can i just put in a regular chisel privided it fits in well?
This is the hammer drill I have. the chisel bits are made to work with this type of drill. it's an SDS-Plus type chuck. Here is the link www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-8-Amp-1-in-Corded-SDS-Plus-Concrete-Masonry-AVT-Rotary-Hammer-Drill-with-4-1-2-in-Corded-Angle-Grinder-with-Hard-Case-HR2641X1/206058492
Breaking up the tile in a small area is fine, but in larger areas it becomes a nightmare. Busted tile is extremely heavy and sharp, and you have to take that into consideration with your cleanup. Most contractor bags are rated for like 50 or 60 lbs max which means it doesn't take much tile debris to hit that threshold, not to mention those sharp pieces will slice through those bags like butter. For my home renovation project I was able to get whole pieces of tile up in about 30 seconds with a roto hammer. Less mess and less space taken up with debris
Thats great if the tile wasn’t mortared down very good. In most cases they don’t come out in one piece. You usually have to use 2 contractors bags so they don’t cut through as easy or use 5 gallon buckets to take them out of the house
i come from a place where contractors don't use standard methods for tiling (e.g not using toothed trowels and using a butter spread method, thickset) due to the concrete floors being uneven. It is a cascade of laziness or incompetence I do not know.
I am planning to do the tile removal by myself but i'm not confident that i would be able to remove the tile adhesives smoothly. I'm in a dilemma should i just remove the tiles and spread self levelling cement ?
I saw demo work at my neighbours and it took 3 workers with rotary hammers almost a month to remove 1800sqft of tiles and tile adhesive. The result was a horribly scarred floor.
It all depends on how good the person installed the floor. I’ve never had a tile floor in a bathroom take me more that 2 to 4 hours to remove. Some times there are hard spots where the mortar is still sticking up slightly and the floor is scared up from the chisel. Just use self leveling cement and that usually fills in the voids and hides the mortar and having the floor scarred up is good for the self leveling compound to stick to. Even though you need to use a primer. Most times I need to raise the floor back up anyway to match the floor leading out of a bathroom.
@TheUltimateHandymanKyle thank you for the advice. For further context I live in a hot and humid tropical country so although i love watching videos like yours I still have to filter out the extra steps due to the fact that we have less requirements for extreme temperature differences.
Thank you so much! The answer to my dilemma
No problem. Good luck with your demo.
I know that this video is a couple of years old. May I ask what kind of roto hammer did you use (i.e. sds plus/max, 3 joules etc) and the width of that chisel. Thanks.
I think it's this one. Im not sure what chisel size I used. It was about 2.5" to 3" wide www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-8-Amp-1-in-Corded-SDS-Plus-Concrete-Masonry-AVT-Anti-Vibration-Technology-Rotary-Hammer-Drill-with-Handle-Hard-Case-HR2641/206040966?g_store=&source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-RM-RMP-GGL-D25P-Multi-NA-MAKITA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-MK884559001-27236-NBR-35-NA-VNT-FY24_Makita_D25P_AON_CPT&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-RM-RMP-GGL-D25P-Multi-NA-MAKITA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-MK884559001-27236-NBR-35-NA-VNT-FY24_Makita_D25P_AON_CPT-71700000119307611--&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAolLu99l3o0W7Xv60frk7OSbNJVNn&gclid=CjwKCAjwl6-3BhBWEiwApN6_kuATMXVPFNwEqXJHoFlxUz_RKP1U7RvRNPR6YPHfdByEVf1zwGBl0xoCZSsQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Chisel looks to be 3”. I can’t day for sure but based on tool size and that chisel it looks to be SDS plus which are the most common at big box stores.
I know you weren’t looking for a response from a random so much as the vid maker but as you mentioned, it’s an old video so who knows if the maker will notice and get back to you.
I’ve done my fair share of tile floor demos though I have moved in to new build work in the last 3 years or so.
@@dallinbagley4486 Any response is good. I appreciate yours too, thanks.
@@dallinbagley4486 I notice everything. I responded.
I just did this in my bathroom but it was way harder than the video. I was removing slate tiles and I think that might have something to do with the difficulty….whew!
Very helpful tip
Thanks
Question: do you have plywood underneath that? I want to replace the tiles in my foyer and they are sitting on a layer of plywood, followed by what seems to be 1 1/2 layer of concrete
There was no plywood. The tile was on the concrete slab. Someone must have used the plywood to rase the level of the tile to match the floor next to it. Rip all that plywood out and get down to the concrete sub floor. Then you can use self leveling cement to raise the floor back up to where the tile will be flush with the floor next to it. You will have to calculate how much to raise the floor using the thickness of the new flooring.
Great video man
Thanks
Straight to the point
That was the goal
If you don’t mind saying what did you charge for this job?
This was part of a larger project. It probably took me 2 to 3 hours to take out the tile and clean up the mortar off of the slab. Around $270
Why is the concrete coming up with mortar removal when I do this. Like a chunk of mortar will have a thin layer of of the slab ..
As long as it’s a thin layers it shouldn’t be a problem. Not sure why that’s happening. You can pour a thin layer of self leveling cement over the slab. That will fill in the uneven floor and make it level for laying the new floor.
thank you !!!
Good luck with you project.
Thanks.
Happy to help
How about terra-cotta tile what do you recommend
Same method. It should be easy to break. Let me now how it goes
All the people commenting about how easy this looks , post your actual results. I'd be surprised if your opinion changed or not. Gotta get er done.
Did you apply new tile to that ?
No it was vinyl tiles
I did this in my bathroom, im wood tiling my floor, now my question is... dobi need to put something over the concrete before tiling?
Are you putting tiles that look like wood? You can put redgard as a crack prevention membrane on the concrete floor make sure to follow all directions on the bucket. Basically it stops cracks the may form in the slab and keeps them from transferring through to the tile. Now if your slab is older and stable and hasn’t seem much moving or cracking then you could tile directly on the concrete.
@@TheUltimateHandymanKyle thanks for advice
Thankd dude
No problem
Why is the toilet still there?!
I left it on so I could use it. I was replacing it anyway. Sometimes I keep the old toilet bowl around and if I need to go I just set it back on the pipe.
U didn't remove the toilet. I thought it was mandatory. What r the rules there? I really don't want to mess with the toilet
Yes remove the toilet. The one in the video was being replaced and I didn’t care if it got damaged. l like to leave them on as long as possible to be able to use the bathroom if needed.
You need it removed to get all the flooring up
Hmm. Some short sighted Victorian person layed the ceramic tiles into the concrete fire hearth base so that they form part of the fire hearth. It wouldn't be a problem except that it's raised above the level of surrounding floorboards so I can't lay an new oak floor over. This solution will not work for me therefore.
So the tile was laid under the raised concrete of the hearth?
Dude, what type of cheap tiles fractures with that hammer? 😂
Have you ever hit a tile with a hammer? They all break like this
@TheUltimateHandymanKyle I'm literally doing it right now on a renovation for a home I just purchased. Even my 4 LB hammer sometimes has trouble breaking it. To see your 2 LB break through so many so easily tells me that this was a very cheap ceramic tile.
@@rodneym1390 This might say more about your strength than the supposed quality of the tile 😅
Don't fool yourself. Most tile if installed properly will not be this easy to remove. Better get your grinder out of the garage, you're gonna need it to grind down properly installed thin set mortar.
I’ve removed a lot of tile and it’s usually the same. Sometimes it might be slightly harder to remove but it always comes out like this. I’ve never used a grinder to remove the mortar. Usually if there are some stubborn spots that are left after removal I use self leveling compound to fill in voids or cover up slightly raised pieces of thin set.