Make your Aluminum Sprocket Hub Fit Properly !!!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 8 вер 2021
- If you have purchased an Aluminum Hub Mount for your rear drive sprocket & it doesn't seem to tighten down on your wheel hub the way it should, here is a friendly suggestion on how to make that work like it should.. No More Slipping on your Hub, No More hurting spokes..!!!
Finally there is someone out there that thinks the same I do!
Putting a key way in the hub makes things worse and weaker.
I used the blue lock-tight and made sure my gap was good.
Yeah the key way plan doesn't work & neither does using spacers.. I've personally never tried either method because I knew that neither of those ideas weren't going to work well. I prefer to just do a little machine work on the hub if it doesn't fit properly right out of the box that way it doesn't have any problems in the future..👍
finally a definitive tutorial on the adapter! thank you!
I'm glad this helped 🙏. These Hub mounts are way better than those rag joints when they fit properly.. 👍
Thanks lad, my adapter always chewed on the spokes and ruined the wheel. Can't believe I didn't search for a solution on the internet. Good thing i'm doing now!
I flirted with the idea of putting enough tire tubing around the hub to create the gap but ultimately decided it wasnt worth the trouble and went back to pineapple mount
Shimming them with rubber never seems to work properly or at least very long properly.. 🤷♂ I personally have no idea what a Pineapple style mount is.. 🤷♀🤷♀
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes Probably rag joint. It does look like a pineapple slice.😂🤣
Thanks for the video. I just had the hub mount delivered yesterday and it appears to be identical to the one you are using. Test fitted it on the hub and it has the correct gap. This is going to take a lot of frustration out of the build and save probably a couple of hours of farting around with the rag joint. Probably the best 16 bucks spent on this project ! You can also bolt the hub to the sprocket and chuck it up on a lathe, makes the center hole on the sprocket look like a factory cut since it has to be enlarged to fit over the bearing dust cover on coaster bikes. (Huffy Cranbrook)
I'm glad the video helped you & perhaps saved you some time..👍 In the end it is a nice set up, no chains walking off in the future & when you machine the center of the stock sprocket & keep the bearing cover on it gets you a lot more durability & time out of your rear wheel.👍🚴♂️ Enjoy your new motorized bike...
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes Do any of the sprockets with adapter come premachined to fit over the dust cover? I mean is it absoltely necessary to machine that center of the sprocket? How could this be done with a hole saw and be centered and square?
@@GreggLeaverton-xi8lx Yes there are sprockets & Hub mounts that come with the oversized hole for coaster brake rear wheels, they are CNC Aluminum Sprockets & Hub Adapters. The Aluminum Sprockets can only be used with their own Hub mount, so you have to buy both. If you want to use your whole saw Idea, you'll need to get a piece of flat wood like a 2x6 or a 2x12, place a piece of metal at least a 1/16 to 1/8 in thick on the wood then lay the sprocket on that then clamp it all together so none of the Pices can move. Mark the center for the piolet bit on the whole saw on the piece of metal so you're as close to center as you can get, and it should work just fine. The piece of flat metal under your sprocket is used for holding the piolet bit on the whole saw centered while you're sawing the sprocket's center hole, if you don't use the metal plate & just try doing it on the wood the drill bit can walk off center as your whole sawing the sprocket. I have used this method in a pinch a few times in the past.. If you don't want to go through with this procedure, just get the CNC Sprocket & Hub.. Hope I explained this well enough. 👍👍& it works out for you..
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
I hope it helped with your build.👍 🚴♂🚴♂
Great video bro
Thanks..🙏🚴♂️
I like a rag joint and the metal hub I never had a problem with either one of them accept the tightening down thanks for the tip
Wait a min. Are you using rag joint and metal adapter BOTH simultaeously!!??
Thanks. 👍
I used a metal file it seems to be super tight on their. Just waiting for my arch tensioner to test it out
If a metal file gets the job done, then I say break out the metal file.. 👍👍 Hope you enjoy you're bike when it's done.. 🚴♂🚴♂
thank you for this video . i have seen videos with a keyway . like your way better. where did you buy your hub adopter from .
I got this one on E-Bay from a seller that goes by TKO dirt.. It fit really well & you can use your stock Sprocket.🚴♂🚴♂
Where did you get that hub adapter from it's an interesting looking one I've never seen one like that I'm just curious as what brand or manufacturer makes that specific one
I got it from TKO Dirt. I don't know if that's it brands name or not but that's where I got it.. 🚴♂🚴♂
Thank you
I'm glad if it helped you 👍👍
I just bought this same adapter...What did you use for the side because the screws they send for the sides that clamp are small ?? And do you use threadlock on these?
It's OK to use the hardware that came with your adapter..👍You won't have any problems with it.. I don't use lock tight on the threads, in case it's along time when you need to remove it, steel bolts already try to corrode in Alum. anyway.. I've use 100's of these & have never had a problem.🚴♂🚴♂
Hello! Sorry for my English. Rubber rings provide cushioning. Depreciation will disappear with such a mount. What to do in this case?
Depreciation is very important .
The rubber rings provide cushioning but they also put too much stress on the spokes of the wheel, they are always pulling on them when taking off & the whole time you are riding.. If you change to an aluminum hub mount it takes all of these problems away, all of the force of the chain pulling you forward is now only on the hub mount & not the spokes of the wheel, also the sprocket will turn much straighter & not have any wobble to throw the chain off the sprocket.. I have included a link to help explain.. I hope it helps.. Click on this link to watch the video.. ua-cam.com/video/5gUbA7JQpv4/v-deo.html
First time owning a 4stroke ambull my gear box busted planning to buy a new gear box am wondering if the sprocket have something to do with the gear box if it's not set right planning to buy one of those to get a better ride
This Hub adapter is a way better set up than those rag joints that come with your kit, it keeps your sprocket turning straight & keeps it from rotating like an egg.. If your gear box broke because the chain road up on the rear sprocket teeth & put tension on the chain & broke the gear box then yes this will keep it from doing that.. Although if your gear box broke because of clutch chatter ( jerking really hard at take off) then this hub adapter won't help with that..😥😥The 4 -stroke bikes clutches are really jerky when they are brand new, it takes a few tanks of gas for them to were in to get better.. My friendly advice is ; pedal a little more when taking off & ease into the throttle a little slower & smoother to help get the weight moving & you should be fine. When you get on the throttle really hard to take off it's really hard on the gear box & clutch.. I would definitely put on a hub adapter..👍👍
Taking some material off the flat surfaces will work but youre changing the full contact of the hub into more of a elongated or egg shaped hole in the hub...I used to explain this a lot to young machinists or tool makers for years in mfg environments when a hub ( after some very large hubs would fail) the proper way is to know the outside diameter of what your going to hub, then take your hub material ( two halves) and machine your two hub bolts ( the tightening bolt holes first), then place and egual amount of shims between the two halves, tighten everything up and then machining the bore on a lathe to the same diameter of what is going to be hubbed.... you will then have full contact around the hub diameter, discard the shims and now you have full radial contact and some space too.
I agree..👍I tried to keep my explanation super simple because I know most people building these bikes don't have any machinery around to do it that way, but they may have a simple little surface grinder to get them by for this simple little adjustment to make these Hubs fit a little better. 🚴♂🚴♂
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes Gavin’s explanation leads me to realize that your solution looks good…but actually still results in little actual surface-contact between the hub adapter halves and the hub. So…although the grip may be tighter with your solution, the likelihood of slipping still remains as we’re still relying on 2 smooth surfaces purchasing each other with very little surface contact. Your are right, however, that most in this hobby do not have access to the milling machinery that Gavin suggestion would require to implement. Personally, I use a tapped in set screw with a crowned leading edge. One solid bite is all it takes…and it hasn’t budged a micron since the installation…nor has it chewed up the hub as you characterized in your video.
@@gotchurebeacons-gaming9023 Gavin's explanation is correct too, I have a Lathe & a Bridgeport but as you mentioned that at home hobbyist usually don't have access to that equipment, so I presented an Idea that works for people with minimal equipment that they could do to remedy this problem with minimal expense. First I did it to a couple of my bikes & gave them the time & road test before I ever made the video, I'd hate for some advice to make someone's problem worse because of my advice. I've done this to a lot of bikes that bought the cheap China mount since & haven't had one issue. I found company that makes them & you don't have to do anything to them (They actually fit correctly). I don't see a problem putting a set screw on there as additional support, I just don't care for people trying to shim them up.. 🤷♂🤷♂Thanks for your input..🚴♂🚴♂
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes Thank you for the reply. I agree that shims…especially rubber…aren’t the way to go. Short of a perfect fit, a solid bite is the answer. The woodruff key/notch is too aggressive and damaging to the hub. I’m thankful for folks like yourself that actually weigh the consequences of their advice before throwing it out there.
Your voice sounds like Sherriff Matt Dillon on Gunsmoke. Excellent video. If you run into some AFFORDABLE Plutonium or any on Clearance please let me know.
🤣🤣 I'll let you know, It's harder to find these days.. 😁😁
I have one similar to this but if you take too much off then wouldn’t the holes for the sprocket not line up?my hub must be way too small for this part because I have a lot of room between the hub and the hub adapter.
Your correct, you can't take a massive amount off or the bolt holes won't still line up. 😢I don't know what size your hub is but they do make spacers & they also make a Hub for free wheel wheels..
If it rest on 14g standard spokes from the torque does it eventually bend the spokes causing them to bend and brake???
No not at all. It may on some wheels just touch the spokes, but all of the torque & all of the pulling of the bike is focused on the hub it's self-clamped onto the rear wheel's hub. That's why I prefer them. Where the standard rag joint that comes with the kit does all of the torque on the spokes, the hub if installed correctly doesn't put any stress on any spokes. 🚴♂🚴♂
Well that's good news because I recently bought one because my rag adapter wasn't making Nathan my sprockets straight no matter what I did and I was concerned because my new adapter had a space between no matter how hard I tightened it so I guess it's a good thing to have a space between your adapters I'll just leave mine alone then
Good to hear another point of view here. I want to put one of these on a hub with a dip in the center, so I will have to fill in the gap with JB Weld, or stronger, and more metal like, and use the hub mount as a mold for it. After I degrease it all I can try fitting it this way, though the key-way might be good too if done right, because, according to warranty, my JB Weld already ruined my hub.......Your sprocket hub fit in between those spokes perfectly, and those spokes looked heavier than 12 gauge......Your instruction is helpful.
It sounds like your rear wheel is a free wheel style.. They do make a hub with a smaller center hole for free wheel wheels. A coaster brakes wheel takes a 1 1/2in hub & usually a free wheel hub takes a 1.0 in hub although some bike wheels are metric so they do make shims that you can buy so you don't have to do all that creative work to make it fit. 🚴♂🚴♂
Hopefully this info helps & saves you some work. Thanks for watching 👍
So would it be better for me to get a slightly smaller size or should i get my exact size and grind it down ?
Get your exact size, sometimes they fit just fine & you won't have to do any grinding at all , this is just a friendly suggestion in case you do have to make it fit a little better & if you need to you shouldn't have to do much grinding at all.. 👍👍
What kind of back rim is it and what size hub adapter is it 🚲💨💨💯
It's just a 26in. coaster brake wheel.. 1.5 Hubs fit coaster brake wheels & 1.0 fits a free wheel rear wheel.
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes thanks 👍
Would doing that not throw off the dimensions of the holes? on the sprocket and hub
Good question.. 👍It usually doesn't because you're only taking off a small amount of material, you only need a gap about the thickness of construction paper to ensure it's gripping the hub properly. In a rare case you really need to remove some material from the hub mount to make it fit properly, you can drill the hole mounts on the hub to the next size to help make up the difference but I've never had it come to having to do that.. 🚴♂🚴♂
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes ok thanks for the reply I have done a lot of research into this I have most everything ordered I am ordering the rest once I take measurements. Thanks again
Mine has an insert so is that an issue. Its on a mountain bike with center pull brakes.
Mountain bikes have the smaller hubs typically.
The insert is used if the adapter doesn't fit the hub tightly, if the adapter fits the hub tightly you shouldn't need the insert but if it doesn't then use the adapter for a tight fit so the adapter doesn't spin on you wheels hub..👍
I to look for that gap but I do this also give it some teeth to bite down with I take a file or hacksaw and rough up that smooth shinny aluminum surface not much like a pair of pliers that's my way
That is a good idea 👍 especially if you're running a bigger engine, can't have too much bite on a hub adapter..
the aluminum will only lose more contact surface for the hub, if ther was a way to get the steel bicycle hub off then get it knurled by a machine shop somewhere would probably be a better option
Is there a free wheeling on sprocket for the engine?
No unfortunately not.. 😭
Sir I have a problem i own a aluminium frame cycle i need to increase the distance to fix a hub which is 130 mm my normal distance 126 mm around.. how can I install it i am stuck with it bro please help.. i can't cold set a aluminium bike ? How 🥺😭
I'm not quite sure what your asking,,? Are you trying to mount an aluminum hub to your wheel or are you saying the hub you have doesn't fit the hub on the wheel you have..? I'm not sure what you mean by increase the distance to make a hub fit..?? If you can help me understand what your trying to do a little more clear I can possibly help you.. 👍
So basically, its designed to slightly warp the hub out-of-round for a tight fit?
Not actually.. The hub hole is just a bit smaller so when it's installed it grips the wheel hub, nothing is or gets warped using one of these. 👍👍
Where can i purchase this, and where can i get the shims ?
You can get this on E-Bay from TKO dirt. They have two sizes so you shouldn't need shims, but if you want shims, I have seen them on E=bay also. I have never bought shims, so I don't have any suggestions on a page.
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes ok thank you.
How did that adapter hold up?
This adapter has never given me any problems ever. Right out of the box this thing fits properly & has never ever slipped or come loose & it fits the standard sprocket that comes in your kit so no need to spend the extra money on a CNC Sprocket that only fits its own adapter. I just used this one in the video, but I actually didn't have to file or grind on it, I just used it show how people could fix their cheaper ones to make them work.. I have two of them, ones been on for about 8 yrs now & the other ones going on two years.
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes cool thanks. I have the same one and was worried about the threads stripping out. They seem like the best design because their so much wider than the fancy cnc ones. Those cdh power sprockets with a gold chain do look sweet tho
If you gotta take material off, a piece of sandpaper and a flat concrete floor works best, the way this guy shows/tells is dumb, I personally like the other style sprocket-adapter myself, because you can put two of them together for double clamping area, all you need is 3 bolts long enough to go through the sprocket and both adapters, you might need to shorten the spacers, it's well worth doing, it just looks and works way better, good-luck!
They don't make these for a 32 tooth sprocket and it sucks. You should of bought the one that the screws mount flush
This style of adapter bolt heads has plenty of clearance & uses the stock sprocket that come with your kit. The adapters that have counter sunk flush mount bolts is usually the CNC adapter that only fits a CNC sprocket & this adapter won't fit a CNC Sprocket.🤷♀🤷♀
shim. shim. shim. why remove metal? especially only one half. proper shim will NOT slip
I'm glad the shim method worked in your case..👍 Although not everyone can make shims work so I try to keep it simple for the people that just have a few hand tools around to use..Sometimes these are pretty close to working when people get them so just taking a little material off ( even just one side) sometimes is all they need for it to tighten down & not slip on their Hub..
WOW! you gut showed how to NOT do it!!!
What...??
@@EcoTransGaspoweredBikes if you think thats the right way..... you just keep doing it.....and i will do it the right way
@@randyhorton8399 Not every hub mount needs a little surfacing, sometimes you get lucky & they work just fine right out of the box, although I have had to do a little milling on probably about 40 of them through the years & they have worked just fine, but if you have a better suggestion that also works I'm always open to suggestions..
@@randyhorton8399 Telling him he is doing it wrong and that you do it right and then NOT saying what the supposed right way is... Hard to take seriously.