2000 Yamaha YZF-R1 Engine Rebuild - Part 15
Вставка
- Опубліковано 16 вер 2024
- Part 15 - Lapping in the new valves. Wow, this was a lot of work. My advice - get your valve seats cut by a CNC machine, much easier than hand lapping.
Previous Video: • 2000 Yamaha YZF-R1 Eng...
Next Video: • 2000 Yamaha YZF-R1 Eng...
Keep up the videos!! been watching everyone part...cant wait to see it fire up :)
I'm very impressed with your eye for detail and how you stress for perfection.
Thanks for the kind words. If no valve leaks, no need to lap and I would re-use the existing valves. With only 10k miles that makes sense, and avoiding the lapping will save lots of time. For cleaning, I would start with soaking them in anything like B12, or Seafoam to break up the carbon - hit them with a soft brush, that stuff can be nasty to get off, let the chemical bath do most of the work.
Clover is the only brand my local HW warehouses carry - so I've never compared it to anything else. For fine lapping, use your favorite polishing compound, but for coarse grain lapping, I think Clover is it.
If anyone is considering lapping valves I can tell you that if you use the proper valve lapping tool, which is a handled tool with a plunger on it that grabs the valve nicely it makes valve lapping very easy. Using this tool it would take you an hour tops for 20 valves.
Totally agree, the R1 valves are quite small, so you need to find the smallest lapping tool you can.
It's a trade-off, the more coarse grain the less work it will be, but you run the risk of lapping too much... I found 500 a good starting point, but mine were very pitted. Depending on yours, 1000 sounds fine, just be prepared to put a lot of elbow grease in. Check with blue dye, you'll know after a while if the 1000 grit is making a difference or not.
Dude you're awesome!
I would only lap a set of valves once, and yes, I bought new valves. I thought about reusing my old ones, but i put so much work in, it felt silly to take that risk and shortcut. I will never hand lap again, its too much work to get a good result :-)
@fucem1 more vids are coming, I'm still waiting for my cylinders to come back from the replating... that's when things will get moving full steam ahead.
@Combine1777 I'm going to be extremely anxious when I hit that start button the first time. I'll set my expectations low, and hopefully beat them. lol.
Amazing....thanks for sharing!
Thanks a lot for the videos! Learned a lot from watching them. I'm rebuilding an 05 R6 engine. The bike only had 10k miles on it but i cracked the engine case when i wrecked so i have to install everything on a new case i picked up on ebay. Before disassembling the head if i check for leaks and the valves are not leaking then do i need to lap it? You said you bought new valves... but what process would you recommend on cleaning it?
Do you have more info on the Chem Dye...????...liked all the videos........roy
Is there a normal amount of times you can lap the valve seats like this in the life of an engine? And you bought all new valves right?
Hey John.... How do you like the clover lapping compound your using? The 1 lb tub is super expensive. I found a 2oz on ebay for around $10 that i'll get. Was just wondering if there's another one you recommend.
How did it go with the 800 grit? You think 1000grit is till fine to make a difference.
What are you using on the stem so that you can grab it to turn it?
Hi supermotoJohn, I have a problem of chargeing even if the stator and the regulator are working well. This electric problem makes me crazy. Ur help please
You don't say what specific problem you are having, but I will assume its a charging problem, which can be frustrating. Stay cool, and be methodical, the charging system has a small number of components. I don't have the service manual in front of me, but test the stator first, it should be putting out 75v AC I believe. Next, test the rectifier/regulator. Inspect all wiring and connectors, they can easily short and get compromised. If the stator is good, the wiring/connectors are good, and the R/R is good, that only leaves the battery. It's never a bad idea to throw a new battery into the bike. If after doing that, you still have problems, go to the R1-Forum where a more detailed conversation can happen, or take it to a good local mechanic.
Amateur mechanics always show you some color on a paper towel after spraying with paint thinner. Dykem Blue ,which is greasy, shows which valve needs some lapping. In a head job after grinding the valves and valve seat you might need a few twists with fine compound .What you are doing is wrong. A few minutes running will pound down the microscopic high spots on valve or seat. Not grinding or cutting the valves and seats makes the seat too wide and the valves get cupped leading to short life and poor flow. GO to a PRO.
Ukinanam kano
ajde to malo brze ja bi to napravio za dva dana i samo vatra pozdrav iz srbije