Good work. It's nice to see a project that reduces e-waste. Those with a better knowledge of electronics will be able to utilize the original backlight power supply and lower the overall cost. As I remember, it's a matter of supplying a constant signal voltage or common ground to one of the wires that connects to the power supply circuit board. Often there are marks on the circuit board that indicate what each wire is for. One of them will be marked "on/off" or "PWR" or something to that effect. Checking that wire with a volt meter will let you know what is needed to keep the power supply and backlight active. For example, that wire may have 5 volts on it (logic high) when the backlight is on and zero volts (logic low) when the backlight is off. The signal processing board is what controls it. If there is no input signal or the on/off switch is pressed, that wire switches logic states. It's possible to rewire the original on/off switch to control the power supply and in turn the backlight. Controlling the power supply voltage and thus the backlight brightness is also possible but requires a fairly in depth understanding of switch mode power supplies.
Good points all around. I should have looked on the logic board the lights were connected to to see if it had a dedicated PWR or on off. Initially it just. It looked like it had 2 20 pin ribbons attached.
I did that with a 55 inch, but instead of using an external psu, i modified the original one , connecting the 5v vsb to the power suply on and the led brightness to the 3.3 rail, so when you plug the tv all comes to life without any other component
@@IfAlexCan I had to look at the schematics and then check if they behavior was the expected connecting the cut wires that were going to the logic board. Then when i confirmed all was correct i made the final cable and take out all that wasnt necesary
Man, you have Just done so many mistake with your electronics, Wall lead have to be L(live) and N(Neutral) + Ground. Houses use alternating current, than the Power supply convert It to Direct current wich almost every electronics use ( other than some motor etc... ), V+ is positive and V- Is negative of the output. If you don't understand what are you doing don't play with 110-220v.
@@IfAlexCan that's true but one mistake with that voltage and it can be your last. Keep going but do some research and maybe you can go to a fast electronics class.
What is this "SODDER" you speak of? The word is SOLDER, Soul-Der, all American mispronounce this simple word, while I typed this you did it 8 more times.
Funny you said this. I never had to type the word out before and had to look up the spelling, only to realize I'd been saying it incorrectly the whole time.
Right!? Look at this one for $600. I bet our is just as good dracobroadcast.com/product/dracast-x-series-led2000-bi-color-led-video-light-panel-with-v-mount-battery-plate/
Good work. It's nice to see a project that reduces e-waste. Those with a better knowledge of electronics will be able to utilize the original backlight power supply and lower the overall cost. As I remember, it's a matter of supplying a constant signal voltage or common ground to one of the wires that connects to the power supply circuit board. Often there are marks on the circuit board that indicate what each wire is for. One of them will be marked "on/off" or "PWR" or something to that effect. Checking that wire with a volt meter will let you know what is needed to keep the power supply and backlight active. For example, that wire may have 5 volts on it (logic high) when the backlight is on and zero volts (logic low) when the backlight is off. The signal processing board is what controls it. If there is no input signal or the on/off switch is pressed, that wire switches logic states. It's possible to rewire the original on/off switch to control the power supply and in turn the backlight. Controlling the power supply voltage and thus the backlight brightness is also possible but requires a fairly in depth understanding of switch mode power supplies.
Good points all around. I should have looked on the logic board the lights were connected to to see if it had a dedicated PWR or on off. Initially it just. It looked like it had 2 20 pin ribbons attached.
I did that with a 55 inch, but instead of using an external psu, i modified the original one , connecting the 5v vsb to the power suply on and the led brightness to the 3.3 rail, so when you plug the tv all comes to life without any other component
Were those markings visible on the logic board or did you have to look at the schematics ?
@@IfAlexCan I had to look at the schematics and then check if they behavior was the expected connecting the cut wires that were going to the logic board. Then when i confirmed all was correct i made the final cable and take out all that wasnt necesary
I saw 3 comments which I didnt like the tone of
you did a good job big boss
and kudus for taking their notes with an open mind and open heart
a video about an lcd protection with plexyglass please....
Right, prevention would have been easier.
I'm glad you didn't electrocute yourself.
I'm terrified of electricity. But projects like this help with knowledge and safety
Well look at that ... I just broke mine (stupid me) couple days ago ... just in time!
Good luck
Hell yeah
Thanks
not a fan of the color tempiture tho
It is a little too blue yes.
Man, you have Just done so many mistake with your electronics, Wall lead have to be L(live) and N(Neutral) + Ground.
Houses use alternating current, than the Power supply convert It to Direct current wich almost every electronics use ( other than some motor etc... ), V+ is positive and V- Is negative of the output.
If you don't understand what are you doing don't play with 110-220v.
You learn way more from your mistakes then successes. So I guess I learned a good amount this time. Thanks for the advice.
@@IfAlexCan that's true but one mistake with that voltage and it can be your last.
Keep going but do some research and maybe you can go to a fast electronics class.
Or... Buy a new light for about half that
What is this "SODDER" you speak of? The word is SOLDER, Soul-Der, all American mispronounce this simple word, while I typed this you did it 8 more times.
Funny you said this. I never had to type the word out before and had to look up the spelling, only to realize I'd been saying it incorrectly the whole time.
Did that with a 60-inch TV, it's the best working light I have !!!
Right!? Look at this one for $600. I bet our is just as good dracobroadcast.com/product/dracast-x-series-led2000-bi-color-led-video-light-panel-with-v-mount-battery-plate/