Good video. I replaced the banjo bolt without any issues except, as you note, the two copper crush washers for sealing to the top of the housing I received as an "OEM Part # ending in 6513 are indeed too large and should have an ID of 10mm, not the 13mm size. Otherwise the washers won't seal the housing to banjo bolt properly. I just reused the old washer from the defective original banjo bolt and hopefully there will be no leaks using it, I have heard some people have just used one correct-size washer, Teflon tape, and no washer at all and have had success. Those 13mm washers, along with the rubber o-ring, appear to be used with the oil line itself and not the banjo bolt. There's a lot of confusion out there about all of this and Mercedes should make these issues clear!
Most of the time I have issues with the washers being the culprit of the leaks but overall I am glad you were able to correct issue and I agree that Mercedes should make it clear but then they’ll just lose money if they tell us how do things 😂
I've had no leaks at the banjo bolt. The old (original) washer was in good shape, so I just carefully cleaned it and the bolt face and tightened the bolt until it was snug. I didn't use a torque wrench to do so - just tightened until everything felt secure. I've driven quite a bit since then with no issues. You could probably go down to your local parts store and just buy a 25 cent 10mm copper washer if your original washer doesn't appear pristine. I'm not sure why it says two are needed when just one does the job effectively. @@playwithraph1115
Thank you for the video, much appreciated. I have a '13 c250 and this will be my next project. @4:15 you mentioned that the correct crush washer size should be an M10. Can you please advise if this is an M10 x14mm x 1mm or M10 x 16 mm x 1 mm? TIA
@@TexThaiAuto I went ahead and shotgun the crush washer. I ordered 200 pieces of assorted copper crush washer (M5 - M14*1mm) in a see-through compartmented plastic case for a little less than $6, shipped. Thank you and Happy Thanksgiving!🦃
Hey at 0:41 there’s oil all over where the bolt your showing us is. I was wondering if you new why. Mine has oil leaking down there also. looks like head gasket. But I don’t have coolant get low or oil?
Seen plenty of videos of people switching out the top line but never the bottom one. That's the one that's leaking oil for me, anyone go a link they can direct me to ?!
Did you end up finding a solution to the bottom on? I removed the bolts holding it but there is another line on the top that doesn’t come off that’s holding in the bottom one. I’m afraid to pull to hard and damage it… I already removed bolts
Great video brother! I just replaced the part on my C250! Your video was very useful. Thank you!
Thanks for posting this video, it really helped me replace the turbo oil line on my C250.
I’ll be sure to upload more when I work on this car!
Thank you for making this! You’ve saved me so much time, trying to figure why I can’t get the shield out - the hidden fifth bolt…
Good video. I replaced the banjo bolt without any issues except, as you note, the two copper crush washers for sealing to the top of the housing I received as an "OEM Part # ending in 6513 are indeed too large and should have an ID of 10mm, not the 13mm size. Otherwise the washers won't seal the housing to banjo bolt properly. I just reused the old washer from the defective original banjo bolt and hopefully there will be no leaks using it, I have heard some people have just used one correct-size washer, Teflon tape, and no washer at all and have had success. Those 13mm washers, along with the rubber o-ring, appear to be used with the oil line itself and not the banjo bolt. There's a lot of confusion out there about all of this and Mercedes should make these issues clear!
Most of the time I have issues with the washers being the culprit of the leaks but overall I am glad you were able to correct issue and I agree that Mercedes should make it clear but then they’ll just lose money if they tell us how do things 😂
Did you end up having leaks by re-using the washer? I just picked up the o-ring and didnt realize i needed washer until watching this video..
I've had no leaks at the banjo bolt. The old (original) washer was in good shape, so I just carefully cleaned it and the bolt face and tightened the bolt until it was snug. I didn't use a torque wrench to do so - just tightened until everything felt secure. I've driven quite a bit since then with no issues. You could probably go down to your local parts store and just buy a 25 cent 10mm copper washer if your original washer doesn't appear pristine. I'm not sure why it says two are needed when just one does the job effectively. @@playwithraph1115
Excellent video mate, thank you for Sharing...
Great video. Can you explain why you torque the banjo bolt to 6 Nm and then turn it a further 90 Deg?
Mercedes spec- essentially helping the bolt/crush washers sit evenly.
@@TexThaiAuto Thanks - that's useful to know
Thank you for the video, much appreciated. I have a '13 c250 and this will be my next project. @4:15 you mentioned that the correct crush washer size should be an M10. Can you please advise if this is an M10 x14mm x 1mm or M10 x 16 mm x 1 mm? TIA
You need to check to see what your vehicle has specifically. Personally I am unsure and just match what I have in front of me.
@@TexThaiAuto I went ahead and shotgun the crush washer. I ordered 200 pieces of assorted copper crush washer (M5 - M14*1mm) in a see-through compartmented plastic case for a little less than $6, shipped. Thank you and Happy Thanksgiving!🦃
Awesome. Happy thanksgiving!🦃
Is there a washer that you use for the top e10 connecting the line to the engine case?
No just the bolt but the line has an o ring on it.
Hey at 0:41 there’s oil all over where the bolt your showing us is. I was wondering if you new why. Mine has oil leaking down there also. looks like head gasket. But I don’t have coolant get low or oil?
Check the vacuum pump
What are the part numbers for the o-ring and crush washers and where did you get them from?
Mercedes. If you call them with your vin they’ll get it for you.
How did you get a long extension through that opening
1/4 inch
is there going to be oil dripping everywhere? do I need to drain the oil first?
You’ll have some drip but not enough to justify draining all the oil.
How long does it take for the repair?
Less than an hour.
does this leak occur above the starter?
I would check the valve cover gasket and see if it is running down.
@@TexThaiAuto it's not the gasket. I've already changed it and there's still a leak
Seen plenty of videos of people switching out the top line but never the bottom one. That's the one that's leaking oil for me, anyone go a link they can direct me to ?!
Email me at texthaiauto@gmail.com
Did you end up finding a solution to the bottom on? I removed the bolts holding it but there is another line on the top that doesn’t come off that’s holding in the bottom one. I’m afraid to pull to hard and damage it… I already removed bolts
i emailed you, would you be able to help me out,m im stuck on the bottom one.. @@TexThaiAuto
i wactched this specifically to find out how to installl the cover again and of course he skippped it
How did you get the 2 bolts put to free the dipstick with the heat shield still being in there