Good one done a good few steels only difference is instead of the stud wall I'd put in a second line of props with scaffolding planks tying in the joist's .See you got your steel reinforce with a top plate . Always check your props first thing in the morning , might get about quarter turn . Lot of heavy work .👍🇮🇪🍀 Stay safe
Exactly the way I do it, only other thing I do is take some photos of the outside walls in case there’s any existing cracks etc that the client at the end try’s to say was you!
I do the same and also get my client to inspect with me, as you say this mitigates any issues later on, that is great advice to any other tradesmen out there, thanks Aidan
I back away from using cast insitu padstones as you cant demonstrate their compressive strength. Save sampling for a cube test, which isn't going to happen on a domestic job.
Great job, similar to how we do it but we get the inside skin in first dry pack it then take out outside skin then drop that steel in? Instead of stud wall, couldn’t you just do a number of arco props with double scaffold boards top and board. Save you money? Top job though?
Did this on the back of an old Victorian property with 500mm width rubble filled stonework. There were 2 beams at 250kg each; one on the floor and one on the top with a steel post each side. The beams were dumped half a mile away as the lorry couldn’t get down the side streets (small Victorian roads). We had to get these beams through a 2ft basement window, through a kitchen, a lounge then into position. We had 5 blokes lumping them bit by bit. If anybody’s worked on old stonework you’ll know that the rubble falls out of the middle.... interesting job. Didnt know you did this sort of work Robin. I guess when your in the trade you inevitably end up doing other work, not just your trade. Cheers mate.
@@gdfggggg no point replying to that freak, if you look throughout the comments section of this upload you will see that freak registered just to be nasty, as sick people do. Just place report and many folks probably will, he will get banned soon enough.
As an approved inspector I see a lot of people installing steels, and it certainly isn’t a job to be undertaken without prior thought. You explained the process well. A lot of people don’t go slow enough or do enough planning but I like your method. Great videos, keep them coming.
Technical as ever and lovely neat job as usual. Like you say used to do a lot of that type of work in England. Never knew what I was doing only how to do it. Thankfully never lost one. Where I am in Oz mostly tin roofs no weight to speak of. Not many brick homes. We cut openings with minimal support and small ones with none. Tie down to stop them blowing away is more of an issue than load in most cases. Different World and like learning a new trade.
I used two 150 x 50 as a sole plate these where in the upright position resting on the joists and over the sleeper walls, the main acrows for the needles etc are taken through the floor onto spreaders on the existing concrete oversite
Just so it goes up at a set time. Sometime you try and upload and doesn’t always work right. This way everyone can get excited for Robin’s video with plenty of time to make a cuppa 🤔
Two lintels are easier to lift, but you do need to bolt them together .... however you can use a single wide one which can be cheaper and quicker, but need to have loading calculations to be sure
when are your " robin clevett's apprentice " hoodies coming out? i seem to do a better job when i pretend to be your apprentice. when i forget, i tend to cut corners and sometimes things do not go according to plan.
I really enjoy watching all your vids, very informative and really good at explaining the reasoning behind everything you do, your methodology is sound. People often forget that there can be a lot of load carried on a back wall. Too many times I go to site and see strong boys holding up a back wall. There are some horror stories out there. Keep up the good vids.
Another interesting video. Thanks, Robin. Just one little point. The critical part of moving the steel while raised, into its final position (which I think is the most dangerous part of the operation) was fast forwarded. It would have been good to see that in real time. 😁
Hi Robin you are a true master my friend love your energy and passion attention to everything!!was wondering i can't see in video the sides , what widths on the pillars .keep them coming
Robin 7:27 in the video - get some new boots ya tight git!! Great job, it always brings a smile to my face when I see this kind of job being done properly, the old "arrr we will only need 2 needles and the old 2 acros will do that" so many excuses as to not do a proper job because they got away with it 10 years ago on a job. Gravity and mass is not to be messed with or guessed. Keep the content coming!! Keep the hair short too it takes a whack off your perceived age!!? perhaps 42 at a push for this video :) Thumbs up.
All those calculations makes you sound like an engineer that lost his way and became a chippy..... good sound advice for people to calculate on basics and apply some common sense... gold star.
Another top quality video love your vids I’m a landscaper and build a lot of timber products for customers and your carpentry skills have tought me a lot and got me out of some difficult situations keep the vids coming
probably a daft question....but why do I regularly see people fitting beams after the shell of the extension is up? It seems logical to install first whilst you have open access for moving the lifters and beam. Then build outwards and knock through last. I'm obviously missing something.
"Wedge and pinning" I was told a long time ago. No one knows what I am talking about nowadays. "Hope and a prayer" seems to be the order of the day when judging whether one has charged the new beam sufficiently enough with force to avoid a dreaded a second wave of forces causing more beam deflection and possible cracks to the masonry. How do you tell? Is it the sound the hammer makes when it is just right? "Overdesigning" cheap steel beams does help, but still, the crack risk must be a constant worry.
We I use a similar method to what your talking about, we have had jobs before where the engineer asked us to bolt a winch to the existing foundation below and pre stress the steel, its amazing how much these steels can flex too, the knowledge you have is being lost, anyone can call themselves a builder in the UK and there have been some horror stories in recent years!!! thanks for your comment
@@ukconstruction Pre-tensioning with a pulley and measuring the deflection to meet design criteria, sounds like a more scientific way of calibrating the beam deflection. But even that is not perfect as it is a point load, not a more realistic uniformly distributed load along the full length of the beam. So even structural engineers struggle to perfect a practical solution to a difficult situation. A compromise like a lot of building task, is inevitable. Thank you for that insight and I hope your good work is given full consideration by your clients.
The beam takes the triangle of wall above the beam, plus the floor loads and transfers them down to either side. That’s why it has to be on dense concrete pads often with engineering brick “nibs” to take the weight down the walls either side. When I did mine, I put Acrow props on the inside to hold up the floor. Six more props (three inside and three outside) supported tubes cut through the wall which carried the weight of the wall. The gap was filled with mortar and natural slate as packing.
Not done this for years but we used to use longer needles and cut round the bearings and roll them big concrete boot lintels of and just concrete them in the oversite.
Nice work Robin (as always!), good to see you're using needles, I see so many builders these days using Strongboy type props for everything however big the load is.
Hi Robin I think the higher you can get these steels the better. Did you not think about taking it higher and having the joists run into the web of the steel in order to have the ceiling running level through.
We can do that but in most cases the steels are taller than the joists so you end up trashing all the rooms above, so although we can do it we give the customer the price either way and they decide
@@ukconstruction Thanks Robin. At least you give the client the option then let them decide. Like you say a lot more work and mess involved. Good luck.
Hi Robin, great video and methodology used. I had an interesting one recently which was in an old building in Sydney city and was an old wool shearing shed near the old docks. There were two timber beams that looked like they were scavenged off an old timber ship, they were massive. There was two of them bolted together. The termites had gotten into the timber and eaten the majority of the inside of the beam. I had to remove it much like you did, section by section and then new lintels and brick it up bit by bit to take the loads above. The old bricks on that building were hand made by the original convicts sent here. I say variety to your work is key so you don't stagnate, I prefer this kind of work where it is like a game of chess, careful planning and execution otherwise one wrong move and it's check mate. Cheers 👍
Hi I noticed you don’t have very deep masonary pillars My steel beam is prob similar in length maybe 5.5mtrs they have suggested I build 900 mm masonry pillars each side it really eats into the space Can I upgrade the steel width to make sure I have thin pillars
Hi Joe, we had a really nice existing foundation on this build, and also the brickwork was super sound and solid, every job can differ and even structural engineers differ on the same design!! Get a second opinion...
Robin could you do a video on boxing in the steels, I always find this a labour intensive job, and wonder if you have any tricks. Enjoyed this one , hope your keeping well !
I am a bit late watching this one Robin, I really like the stud wall inside and particularly like the progressive supports for the steel as it you raise it. That is always a critical point. Very few people prepare for worse case scenario. Excellent work.
An exemplary piece of temporary builderswork and way beyond any textbook method. Main Contractors that are governed by 'ealth and Safety wouldn't go to such lengths, let alone any small jobbing builder. Rather than needling through, generally Acrow Strongbeam ends are used to support the wall from the inside. The beam is lifted into a 4 1/2" deep pocket on the outside and then the inner leaf is removed, including the RC lintel and the beam is slid into position with slate packers, keeping the be3am loaded at all times. This is a tried and tested, structural engineer approved method that requires only a fraction of the temporary builderswork shown. The material to be supported by the new beam and therefore the temporary works is all the loads within a 60deg triangle above the beam that generally does not include any roof load. The exception to this is where there are windows and other openings in part or wholly within the triangle and then the loads will require individual assessment.
Temporary works in construction are important, and are effectively a specialist skill...they are covered by mandatory requirements within the Construction Design and Management Regulations, which covers ‘all’ construction work, not just those works on ‘construction sites’... as for the cast in situ concrete pad stones for the steel beam, concrete can be ‘designed’, relating to cement/aggregate ratios and water content so it can be accurately ‘designed’ to meet or exceed load expectations (as assessed by laboratory concrete design mixes and testing to destruction under load), and provided it is mixed correctly in accordance e with the pre-determined mix design, cast well, and allowed to gain sufficient strength before being loaded, there is no reason to suspect it is an inferior method to others methods, using placing of pad stones etc. Robin seems to have a thoroughly good job here, and no doubt he has been supported by a Structural Engineer, who has also probably actually designed the Temporary Works for the job, and probably provided RAMS for the work itself to ensure they were carried out effectively and safely.
@@stun9771 As you raised the CDM Regs, I trust Robin has supplied the client with the Contractors Health and Safety file as mandated by CDM Regs 2015? I have yet to see any small builder provide such a document to their client despite me reminding everyone of their duty. I also won't mention the PPE - helmet, safety glasses, gloves. I see he has safety footwear and ear defenders. For beams of this load/length the engineers that I use all prefer to spec engineering brick pads as it takes out the difficulty of casting insitu pads that with on site mixing can be variable. Brick pads are much easier to install. As I said, Robin's temporary works are exemplary and beyond the normal good practice. There is nothing wrong with going that extra mile so long as the consequences are acceptable.
Hey Robin cracking video, great explanination and workmanship, my apologies if I talked to much on the live stream i have always held you in high regard, it’s your amazing talent with the pride and passion that you are a true master craftsman all the best Tony 👍
Hi robin. I dont know if you read through any of these comments from older videos but here goes. When you say you "slate up" beneath the steel beam to prop it up, do you literally use slate. I dont know why but I would have imagined slate wouldn't do too well under compression. But this is me speaking from absolute ignorance, so please excuse any stupid question or comment I may make. Secondly, you're obviously not purely a carpenter. , which I imagine makes you a builder then. Is that right.. Does that mean you can do brickwork, carpentry, waterproofing, excavation, I dont know what else, as a licensed builder. Man, my comments always end up so bleeding long. I 'll shut up. Thanks Robin. Dig the way you think.
Hi Jude, we use slate packing on top of the steel to pick up the brick courses and not under the beam where it needs to sit directly on a concrete padstone or steel spreader, the slate is also pointed with a good strong sand and cement mix to completely fill any voids, we also use a drier mix of sharp sand and cement to dry pack larger joints, hope that helps and I do try to read and respond where ever I can, I see about 50 new comments a day across my video collection so it is sometimes hard to answer them all, I particularly liked your comment as it was a really useful question that many people would probably wonder so thanks for that mate!!
Good day, could you please mention the dimensions of the Lintel and the thickness of the brick wall. It would have helped a lot if you had included a rough sketch of the wall, load / structure present above the Lintel. Regards, Sushil Adhikari... ( India 👍👍 )
Heard Robin say, " 9 inch wall." Which means two bricks and a 10mm joint. So, that can be two bricks and a morter joint or one running the length of the wall ( ==== ) like so, or running across the length of the wall, thus : |||||||| Depending on the bond.
@@himynameisandyb . ....the packing would take up any discrepancy/deviation between the upper material. You have to consider the RSJ as a fixed rigid unit, but the joists are a collection of variables. It only takes one or two joists to be on a different plane (that's the difference between carpentry and joinery) and therefore the remaining joists would need packing anyway .
@@himynameisandyb I get asked that all the time but there not as keen when we tell them it’ll involve putting needles through the upstairs walls and props through the floors. That’s more rooms to redecorate. Everything’s possible. Some customers are working to a budget and don’t care if the ceilings run through as one
Hi Robin. Very informative video, thank you for posting. A couple of questions: 1) The pad stones are cast in-situ. I assume these must have re-bar in them to prevent concrete cracking in compression. Is there a reason why these would be cast in-situ rather than externally wherethere is more space, then fitted later? 2) Is the idea with needles that they run fully through the wall and are supported by a prop at both ends? I assume so as then they act as a simply supported beam rather than a cantilever. But just couldn’t tell from the video. Thanks.
A bed of mortar will crack and crumble as the steel expands & contracts with heat over time. Solid packers like slate, engineering brick, or steel shims, set at intervals along the beam, will be better.
Hi I am Hasan my daughter, s structure engineer has suggested frame for steel beams and columns for kitchen extension size width 7.5m depth 4m. Please advice if you can suggest the type of steel beams and columns are required and also their sizes. Suggest if we can reduce number of beam and column by other secured method. Thank you.
Your daughter is correct. Due to the wall being removed you require a moment frame to be able to resist the wind load. The only exception is if you have wall returns either side of 655mm
Thanks Robin. You have a really sensible method described here, and thanks for all the safety tips. I will be recommending this video to my steel beam calculation clients. 👍
Was this live?? I am just catching now! Great stuff as ever Robin. I am a 39r old seeking a carpentry apprentice in Ireland and wondering if its possible to learn the craft from anyone anywhere in the world that does their work as pristinely and meticulously as you!! Amazing stuff, a joy to have you explain and demonstrate! Maidhc in Cork, Ireland
Nice one....Here in Victoria the building regs require demolition of this type to be engineered. Whilst this involves a cost I think it's worth it given it eliminates the guess work. Also id it goes arse up you can blame the engineer
Blimey!! that was mad!!! I have had comments on my video from people that say that my work was way over the top, this collapse of the building in Chelsea is not the first one in recent years indeed there has been many!!!, I spent many years working as a sub contractor for loads of different building firms and I have seen some really bad and dangerous stuff, I have also seen when buildings do move and crack due to insufficient shoring, the trouble is that anyone can call themselves a builder!!!!!
Awesome video as ever RC. May I ask how is the roof of the extension supported on the existing external wall? It looks like a substantial piece of timber has been fixed/screwed to the brickwork with the new extension joists notch cut and resting on it. If so, would that leave the timbers at risk of moisture that moves through brickwork? Cheers
Hi Joe, that wall will be used for framing out other parts of this build, The material in that wall was less than £100 and it only took a couple of hours for me to fix, we never waste anything, time material or even fixings!! all the best mate
When you add, cast in situ padstones with crush test, lifting equipment, labour to put steel in room to then hoist plus props plus needles plus timber stud install and remove, then extra safety ladder detail, just seems expensive way for a straight forward job. Love your carpentry
Definitely not my favourite job to do but also one of the most satisfying when that steel gets in place and the acrow’s are under it so I’m looking forward to this just to see how you do it
That is a 100% fail safe method, I don't build stud walls I simply remove ceiling an use more props with scaffold boards on the floor joists above and a plank on the floor. Just saves on cost a little
At the start of the video you can see the end grain of the rafter up against the brick work. They have been notched to sit on the ledger. Is this personal preference over joist hangers or does it depend on what the local authority want/say?
I've worked for nut cases in the past doing stuff like this, crash bang wollip,... Come on come on ...charge...charge...we need this finished today.....haha
Great video, Love the idea of the timber safety props either end. On some big knock throughs ie:installation of a portal frame or box frame we also run a scaffold tube through the lines of acro props to tie them together.
Very good. Can I ask a question. I have an old house the beam was out in a long time ago. But opening up some dodgy hardboard round it. I found that there is wood what might have been a lintel from the old house but just bits. Can I leave it as the house hasn’t moved or the walls on the top cracked. So it seems fine. It should I have e it take out and a pad put in. Not sure about the other side of the beam supposed as not got to that bit.
Very well explained. I am taking a leap this year and starting my own internal renovations company. Been building flats for a decade now. 16 hour days project managing and it is robbing my soul. I need my freedom.
Good one done a good few steels only difference is instead of the stud wall I'd put in a second line of props with scaffolding planks tying in the joist's .See you got your steel reinforce with a top plate . Always check your props first thing in the morning , might get about quarter turn . Lot of heavy work .👍🇮🇪🍀 Stay safe
Exactly the way I do it, only other thing I do is take some photos of the outside walls in case there’s any existing cracks etc that the client at the end try’s to say was you!
I do the same and also get my client to inspect with me, as you say this mitigates any issues later on, that is great advice to any other tradesmen out there, thanks Aidan
I back away from using cast insitu padstones as you cant demonstrate their compressive strength. Save sampling for a cube test, which isn't going to happen on a domestic job.
Robin I've done a hell of a lot of DIY building work on my home over the years, but this is a the point where I finally call in a pro. Thanks.
It's a little known fact that Robin is an actor and there's an old guy called Ted who really does all the work.
😂
Hi Robin, did you use the slate to force your deflection? Thought you might prefer a hard wood wedge. Great vid as always. Keep up the good work.
Great job, similar to how we do it but we get the inside skin in first dry pack it then take out outside skin then drop that steel in?
Instead of stud wall, couldn’t you just do a number of arco props with double scaffold boards top and board. Save you money?
Top job though?
On more complex steel work I tie all the acros props together with a long scaffold pole. Helps me to stop me munching on my boxers.
Did this on the back of an old Victorian property with 500mm width rubble filled stonework. There were 2 beams at 250kg each; one on the floor and one on the top with a steel post each side. The beams were dumped half a mile away as the lorry couldn’t get down the side streets (small Victorian roads). We had to get these beams through a 2ft basement window, through a kitchen, a lounge then into position. We had 5 blokes lumping them bit by bit. If anybody’s worked on old stonework you’ll know that the rubble falls out of the middle....
interesting job.
Didnt know you did this sort of work Robin. I guess when your in the trade you inevitably end up doing other work, not just your trade.
Cheers mate.
@Big Cock I’m not interested in bullshit. Been building for 20yrs and this was one of my more challenging jobs.
@@gdfggggg no point replying to that freak, if you look throughout the comments section of this upload you will see that freak registered just to be nasty, as sick people do.
Just place report and many folks probably will, he will get banned soon enough.
Respect. Random rubble stone. Any bit could move at any time. Been there. Well done.👍
@@willbee6785 thanks mate
Jeez, I thought I was meticulous!
If this guy charges by the day he must be expensive
@@himynameisandyb I never charge by the day, only price work
If people want it done right they’ll pay a fair price. Those that don’t can find Joe Bodgitt who gets paid in cash.
As an approved inspector I see a lot of people installing steels, and it certainly isn’t a job to be undertaken without prior thought. You explained the process well. A lot of people don’t go slow enough or do enough planning but I like your method. Great videos, keep them coming.
@Big Cock You obviously do!
Thanks for your comment, sorry about any offensive comments by others!!!
No worries Robin, there always one idiot. I look forward to seeing up coming videos. If you have an BC related questions I’d be happy to help.
@@BerkleyBuilds Thats great many thanks
Wow you actually know what you're doing! A rare find on youtube builder vids. Very useful, thanks!!
Technical as ever and lovely neat job as usual. Like you say used to do a lot of that type of work in England. Never knew what I was doing only how to do it. Thankfully never lost one. Where I am in Oz mostly tin roofs no weight to speak of. Not many brick homes. We cut openings with minimal support and small ones with none. Tie down to stop them blowing away is more of an issue than load in most cases. Different World and like learning a new trade.
Great video.
How did you prepare the internal floor for all the acros and temporary stud wall?
scaffold planks
Or solid floor to bear off...
I used two 150 x 50 as a sole plate these where in the upright position resting on the joists and over the sleeper walls, the main acrows for the needles etc are taken through the floor onto spreaders on the existing concrete oversite
Belt braces & shoelaces wow
Great to see a fellow builder doing things properly! Needles and supports galore!!
What is premier for, never understood it. Can it just be a normal upload.
Just so it goes up at a set time. Sometime you try and upload and doesn’t always work right. This way everyone can get excited for Robin’s video with plenty of time to make a cuppa 🤔
Really interesting, thanks Robin! Am I right in saying this is a solid wall, and if there was a cavity you'd require a steel for each skin? Cheers
Yes, exactly
Two lintels are easier to lift, but you do need to bolt them together .... however you can use a single wide one which can be cheaper and quicker, but need to have loading calculations to be sure
when are your " robin clevett's apprentice " hoodies coming out?
i seem to do a better job when i pretend to be your apprentice. when i forget, i tend to cut corners and sometimes things do not go according to plan.
That's a great shout mate yours will be free!!! Dm me on Instagram and I will get you one!!!
I really enjoy watching all your vids, very informative and really good at explaining the reasoning behind everything you do, your methodology is sound. People often forget that there can be a lot of load carried on a back wall. Too many times I go to site and see strong boys holding up a back wall. There are some horror stories out there. Keep up the good vids.
Thank you very much!
Another interesting video. Thanks, Robin. Just one little point. The critical part of moving the steel while raised, into its final position (which I think is the most dangerous part of the operation) was fast forwarded. It would have been good to see that in real time. 😁
Hi Robin you are a true master my friend love your energy and passion attention to everything!!was wondering i can't see in video the sides , what widths on the pillars .keep them coming
Robin 7:27 in the video - get some new boots ya tight git!!
Great job, it always brings a smile to my face when I see this kind of job being done properly, the old "arrr we will only need 2 needles and the old 2 acros will do that" so many excuses as to not do a proper job because they got away with it 10 years ago on a job. Gravity and mass is not to be messed with or guessed.
Keep the content coming!! Keep the hair short too it takes a whack off your perceived age!!? perhaps 42 at a push for this video :)
Thumbs up.
All those calculations makes you sound like an engineer that lost his way and became a chippy..... good sound advice for people to calculate on basics and apply some common sense... gold star.
Another top quality video love your vids I’m a landscaper and build a lot of timber products for customers and your carpentry skills have tought me a lot and got me out of some difficult situations keep the vids coming
probably a daft question....but why do I regularly see people fitting beams after the shell of the extension is up? It seems logical to install first whilst you have open access for moving the lifters and beam. Then build outwards and knock through last. I'm obviously missing something.
"Wedge and pinning" I was told a long time ago. No one knows what I am talking about nowadays. "Hope and a prayer" seems to be the order of the day when judging whether one has charged the new beam sufficiently enough with force to avoid a dreaded a second wave of forces causing more beam deflection and possible cracks to the masonry. How do you tell? Is it the sound the hammer makes when it is just right? "Overdesigning" cheap steel beams does help, but still, the crack risk must be a constant worry.
We I use a similar method to what your talking about, we have had jobs before where the engineer asked us to bolt a winch to the existing foundation below and pre stress the steel, its amazing how much these steels can flex too, the knowledge you have is being lost, anyone can call themselves a builder in the UK and there have been some horror stories in recent years!!! thanks for your comment
@@ukconstruction Pre-tensioning with a pulley and measuring the deflection to meet design criteria, sounds like a more scientific way of calibrating the beam deflection. But even that is not perfect as it is a point load, not a more realistic uniformly distributed load along the full length of the beam. So even structural engineers struggle to perfect a practical solution to a difficult situation. A compromise like a lot of building task, is inevitable. Thank you for that insight and I hope your good work is given full consideration by your clients.
The beam takes the triangle of wall above the beam, plus the floor loads and transfers them down to either side. That’s why it has to be on dense concrete pads often with engineering brick “nibs” to take the weight down the walls either side.
When I did mine, I put Acrow props on the inside to hold up the floor. Six more props (three inside and three outside) supported tubes cut through the wall which carried the weight of the wall.
The gap was filled with mortar and natural slate as packing.
Always remember to keep your acrows perfectly plum you be surprised how many people don't until they see one snap 🔨
Perfect Tip there
I’d keep them plumb instead of the fruit 🤣
@@oneflymanflies4924 🤦♂️ some of the one's I use are like 🍌😝
Hi Robin, this is the type of video I would love to see more of, but I also love all your other vids as well!
More to come!
Genie lifts are okay but have there cons. There are special beam lifters about that are even better for most lifts. 👍
The timber frame idea is perfect..peice of mind as safety comes first with any structural load.
Not done this for years but we used to use longer needles and cut round the bearings and roll them big concrete boot lintels of and just concrete them in the oversite.
Yes Robin at least I now know that we do it safely each time. Thank you
Good idea removing the needles gradually me. 👌
we need robin clevett outakes...lol
For some reason he reminds me of Mick Jagger!!
Nice work Robin (as always!), good to see you're using needles, I see so many builders these days using Strongboy type props for everything however big the load is.
Whats a maybe? My mate was always using them, never went to one of his sites though.
Hi Robin
I think the higher you can get these steels the better. Did you not think about taking it higher and having the joists run into the web of the steel in order to have the ceiling running level through.
We can do that but in most cases the steels are taller than the joists so you end up trashing all the rooms above, so although we can do it we give the customer the price either way and they decide
@@ukconstruction Thanks Robin. At least you give the client the option then let them decide. Like you say a lot more work and mess involved. Good luck.
Hi Robin, great video and methodology used. I had an interesting one recently which was in an old building in Sydney city and was an old wool shearing shed near the old docks. There were two timber beams that looked like they were scavenged off an old timber ship, they were massive. There was two of them bolted together. The termites had gotten into the timber and eaten the majority of the inside of the beam. I had to remove it much like you did, section by section and then new lintels and brick it up bit by bit to take the loads above. The old bricks on that building were hand made by the original convicts sent here. I say variety to your work is key so you don't stagnate, I prefer this kind of work where it is like a game of chess, careful planning and execution otherwise one wrong move and it's check mate. Cheers 👍
Yes, its this type of varying work that makes the job more exciting, and the chess analogy is spot on!!! have a good week mate
Hi
I noticed you don’t have very deep masonary pillars
My steel beam is prob similar in length maybe 5.5mtrs they have suggested I build 900 mm masonry pillars each side it really eats into the space
Can I upgrade the steel width to make sure I have thin pillars
Hi Joe, we had a really nice existing foundation on this build, and also the brickwork was super sound and solid, every job can differ and even structural engineers differ on the same design!! Get a second opinion...
Brilliant work and a very impressive tutorial. Thanks Robin
you are welcome Daniel
Great work again Robin. 👍🏽
Robin could you do a video on boxing in the steels, I always find this a labour intensive job, and wonder if you have any tricks. Enjoyed this one , hope your keeping well !
That's a good topic I will do that mate, hope your well too
Easy. Cut soldiers and hammer into the flange. Screw in 2x1 so you can get a fixing in from the bottom. Screw in plasterboard/ply/mdf
I am a bit late watching this one Robin, I really like the stud wall inside and particularly like the progressive supports for the steel as it you raise it. That is always a critical point.
Very few people prepare for worse case scenario. Excellent work.
Thanks Harvey, better late than never!!!😊
An exemplary piece of temporary builderswork and way beyond any textbook method. Main Contractors that are governed by 'ealth and Safety wouldn't go to such lengths, let alone any small jobbing builder.
Rather than needling through, generally Acrow Strongbeam ends are used to support the wall from the inside. The beam is lifted into a 4 1/2" deep pocket on the outside and then the inner leaf is removed, including the RC lintel and the beam is slid into position with slate packers, keeping the be3am loaded at all times. This is a tried and tested, structural engineer approved method that requires only a fraction of the temporary builderswork shown.
The material to be supported by the new beam and therefore the temporary works is all the loads within a 60deg triangle above the beam that generally does not include any roof load. The exception to this is where there are windows and other openings in part or wholly within the triangle and then the loads will require individual assessment.
Thanks for your comment Clive appreciate it
Temporary works in construction are important, and are effectively a specialist skill...they are covered by mandatory requirements within the Construction Design and Management Regulations, which covers ‘all’ construction work, not just those works on ‘construction sites’... as for the cast in situ concrete pad stones for the steel beam, concrete can be ‘designed’, relating to cement/aggregate ratios and water content so it can be accurately ‘designed’ to meet or exceed load expectations (as assessed by laboratory concrete design mixes and testing to destruction under load), and provided it is mixed correctly in accordance e with the pre-determined mix design, cast well, and allowed to gain sufficient strength before being loaded, there is no reason to suspect it is an inferior method to others methods, using placing of pad stones etc.
Robin seems to have a thoroughly good job here, and no doubt he has been supported by a Structural Engineer, who has also probably actually designed the Temporary Works for the job, and probably provided RAMS for the work itself to ensure they were carried out effectively and safely.
@@stun9771 As you raised the CDM Regs, I trust Robin has supplied the client with the Contractors Health and Safety file as mandated by CDM Regs 2015? I have yet to see any small builder provide such a document to their client despite me reminding everyone of their duty. I also won't mention the PPE - helmet, safety glasses, gloves. I see he has safety footwear and ear defenders.
For beams of this load/length the engineers that I use all prefer to spec engineering brick pads as it takes out the difficulty of casting insitu pads that with on site mixing can be variable. Brick pads are much easier to install.
As I said, Robin's temporary works are exemplary and beyond the normal good practice. There is nothing wrong with going that extra mile so long as the consequences are acceptable.
@@stun9771 you're boring everyone now
Whilst you're getting all your paperwork together we'd gave got the beaming and brewed up. Box tickers everywhere.
Hey Robin cracking video, great explanination and workmanship, my apologies if I talked to much on the live stream i have always held you in high regard, it’s your amazing talent with the pride and passion that you are a true master craftsman all the best Tony 👍
Thanks for being on the Stream mate it looks like we share many subs!!! I appreciate your input mate!! all the best to you too mate
Hi robin. I dont know if you read through any of these comments from older videos but here goes. When you say you "slate up" beneath the steel beam to prop it up, do you literally use slate. I dont know why but I would have imagined slate wouldn't do too well under compression. But this is me speaking from absolute ignorance, so please excuse any stupid question or comment I may make. Secondly, you're obviously not purely a carpenter. , which I imagine makes you a builder then. Is that right.. Does that mean you can do brickwork, carpentry, waterproofing, excavation, I dont know what else, as a licensed builder. Man, my comments always end up so bleeding long. I 'll shut up. Thanks Robin. Dig the way you think.
Hi Jude, we use slate packing on top of the steel to pick up the brick courses and not under the beam where it needs to sit directly on a concrete padstone or steel spreader, the slate is also pointed with a good strong sand and cement mix to completely fill any voids, we also use a drier mix of sharp sand and cement to dry pack larger joints, hope that helps and I do try to read and respond where ever I can, I see about 50 new comments a day across my video collection so it is sometimes hard to answer them all, I particularly liked your comment as it was a really useful question that many people would probably wonder so thanks for that mate!!
@@ukconstruction Thanks Robin. really appreciate your thoughtfulness, in every respect. Cheers mate. Jude.
So much knowledge
Good day, could you please mention the dimensions of the Lintel and the thickness of the brick wall.
It would have helped a lot if you had included a rough sketch of the wall, load / structure present above the Lintel.
Regards,
Sushil Adhikari...
( India 👍👍 )
Heard Robin say, " 9 inch wall." Which means two bricks and a 10mm joint. So, that can be two bricks and a morter joint or one running the length of the wall
( ==== ) like so, or running across the length of the wall, thus : ||||||||
Depending on the bond.
A nine inch wall means double brick solid wall. No cavity.
That beam looks a bit low. Should be tight under the joists 7:14
Andy b.....
....looks like he's filled gap with cut down concrete blocks and pug.
As a customer I would want the beam as high as possible
@@himynameisandyb .
....the packing would take up any discrepancy/deviation between the upper material.
You have to consider the RSJ as a fixed rigid unit, but the joists are a collection of variables.
It only takes one or two joists to be on a different plane (that's the difference between carpentry and joinery) and therefore the remaining joists would need packing anyway .
@@himynameisandyb I get asked that all the time but there not as keen when we tell them it’ll involve putting needles through the upstairs walls and props through the floors. That’s more rooms to redecorate. Everything’s possible. Some customers are working to a budget and don’t care if the ceilings run through as one
Hi Robin. Very informative video, thank you for posting. A couple of questions:
1) The pad stones are cast in-situ. I assume these must have re-bar in them to prevent concrete cracking in compression. Is there a reason why these would be cast in-situ rather than externally wherethere is more space, then fitted later?
2) Is the idea with needles that they run fully through the wall and are supported by a prop at both ends? I assume so as then they act as a simply supported beam rather than a cantilever. But just couldn’t tell from the video.
Thanks.
I put the padstones in last. That way I am able to put a line of mortar on the top of the beam. I jack it up so I have a good bed for the wall..
Same here, guaranteed a full bed of mortar under the suspended brickwork then shutter for the pad stone
A bed of mortar will crack and crumble as the steel expands & contracts with heat over time. Solid packers like slate, engineering brick, or steel shims, set at intervals along the beam, will be better.
@@Benzknees, fair point well made, food for thought indeed
@@Benzknees or 1 to 1 dry mix.
this is why i love the comments. we can all improve and refine our skillsets.
If you can see the joists, is it essential to remove the plasterboard before putting in the acrows?
Excellent video
What’s the recommended space between needles for an old Victorian house?
Hi I am Hasan my daughter, s structure engineer has suggested frame for steel beams and columns for kitchen extension size width 7.5m depth 4m. Please advice if you can suggest the type of steel beams and columns are required and also their sizes. Suggest if we can reduce number of beam and column by other secured method. Thank you.
I would say that trust your structural engineer and if in doubt about the sizes of beams specified then get a second opinion
Your daughter is correct. Due to the wall being removed you require a moment frame to be able to resist the wind load. The only exception is if you have wall returns either side of 655mm
Thanks Robin. You have a really sensible method described here, and thanks for all the safety tips. I will be recommending this video to my steel beam calculation clients. 👍
Hi Robin, thanks mate hope your well, I often see your videos pop up!! we will have to collaborate one day!!
@@ukconstruction I'm well thanks Robin! Yes it would be great to collab one day!
Great content, thanks a lot! It just gives so many safe guarding to prevent any fault/undesired situation.
Why in UK people don't use concrete crown with reinforce Rod those beams are not very commons on building. On others countries
Was this live?? I am just catching now! Great stuff as ever Robin. I am a 39r old seeking a carpentry apprentice in Ireland and wondering if its possible to learn the craft from anyone anywhere in the world that does their work as pristinely and meticulously as you!! Amazing stuff, a joy to have you explain and demonstrate! Maidhc in Cork, Ireland
great video. just wondering about the size of your needles. they look like 100 x 50 RHS ?
Nice one Robin. Thanks for the video. Always look forward to your postings! Cheers
Nice one....Here in Victoria the building regs require demolition of this type to be engineered. Whilst this involves a cost I think it's worth it given it eliminates the guess work. Also id it goes arse up you can blame the engineer
Shame the builders in Chelsea didn't watch this video.
Blimey!! that was mad!!! I have had comments on my video from people that say that my work was way over the top, this collapse of the building in Chelsea is not the first one in recent years indeed there has been many!!!, I spent many years working as a sub contractor for loads of different building firms and I have seen some really bad and dangerous stuff, I have also seen when buildings do move and crack due to insufficient shoring, the trouble is that anyone can call themselves a builder!!!!!
@@ukconstruction hit the nail on the head there Robin
You must have the best customer s lol
I have the nicest customers, I am really lucky
Hi Robin, great video as usual. I would be interested to know how much load was being picked up in that situation? Thanks
Really great, thank you Robin!
Awesome video as ever RC. May I ask how is the roof of the extension supported on the existing external wall? It looks like a substantial piece of timber has been fixed/screwed to the brickwork with the new extension joists notch cut and resting on it. If so, would that leave the timbers at risk of moisture that moves through brickwork? Cheers
What did that all cost? Hope the temporary timber wall was repurposed.
Hi Joe, that wall will be used for framing out other parts of this build, The material in that wall was less than £100 and it only took a couple of hours for me to fix, we never waste anything, time material or even fixings!! all the best mate
Its robin clever mate of course the timber was used
When you add, cast in situ padstones with crush test, lifting equipment, labour to put steel in room to then hoist plus props plus needles plus timber stud install and remove, then extra safety ladder detail, just seems expensive way for a straight forward job. Love your carpentry
Definitely not my favourite job to do but also one of the most satisfying when that steel gets in place and the acrow’s are under it so I’m looking forward to this just to see how you do it
That is a 100% fail safe method, I don't build stud walls I simply remove ceiling an use more props with scaffold boards on the floor joists above and a plank on the floor. Just saves on cost a little
Amazing, so you are a top builder and structural engineer on addition to all the woodworking skills. Great video.
You only need a beam lifter if Roger isn't available
I also like to keep needles in for a few days. Boss not happy tho. Says it's costing him money. Lol
Good on you!!!!
The next day boss has already got the boys to load them in the van. He is a tottenham supporter......🧐🧐🧐
it`ll cost more when any cracks or gives are on his insurance premiums.
@@themagpie_1 true but boss won't listen
Great video. It looks as though you have inserted your needles on different courses in some places. Is there any particular reason for this?
Good job Robin I would like to see a follow up, to see how it turns out or another video on the progress of the build..
You are one fantastic builder! Thanks for the real quality info 🙏🏻
thank you Robin for sharing your knowhow, brilliant buildability wise
thank you so much , very informative video
At the start of the video you can see the end grain of the rafter up against the brick work. They have been notched to sit on the ledger. Is this personal preference over joist hangers or does it depend on what the local authority want/say?
how much would cost fitting steel beam 6m long. roughly ? which part England your base is ?
very nice apart from the stud work just how i was tort todo it.
Hi mate, what mix do you use for the dry packing?
Great work as always Robin. What size and thickness are the rectangular sections you're using as needles?
Hi. Re the steel beam, does it sit on damp proof membrane or do you use it at all re the beam.
Make sure you nail all props to timber and clamp to Steel
Concreate "pillows" on both ends of the beam?
Great video and information. Got my like and sub
thanks for this video, excellent work
Looking forward to this, should be very interesting. Cheers till later on Robin.
Hope you enjoy it!
Always enjoy you & the skill build guys work 👍
Proper Craftsmanship 👏👏😉
Thanks 👍
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
Very good explanation 👍
I've worked for nut cases in the past doing stuff like this, crash bang wollip,... Come on come on ...charge...charge...we need this finished today.....haha
Nicely explained and great safety built in. Thanks Robin.
Thanks for watching!
Great video,
Love the idea of the timber safety props either end.
On some big knock throughs ie:installation of a portal frame or box frame we also run a scaffold tube through the lines of acro props to tie them together.
Exactly. Hope he stitch nailed the top & bottom of the acrows as well.
Very good. Can I ask a question. I have an old house the beam was out in a long time ago. But opening up some dodgy hardboard round it. I found that there is wood what might have been a lintel from the old house but just bits. Can I leave it as the house hasn’t moved or the walls on the top cracked. So it seems fine. It should I have e it take out and a pad put in. Not sure about the other side of the beam supposed as not got to that bit.
Thanks.
Very well explained. I am taking a leap this year and starting my own internal renovations company. Been building flats for a decade now. 16 hour days project managing and it is robbing my soul. I need my freedom.
Well done for breaking away!! I'm sure you will enjoy it far more!!
Brilliant Robin! Looking forward to some more, keep up the good work 👍🏻
Thanks, will do!
Thanks just the instruction I needed.
Have you made needles yourself ? They look hand made alot longer than usual strong boys alot better !
Check the strong boys spec for the designed load. You might be surprised.