Hello, thanks for the great information! I came across this video and was curious if you had any experience with the SkyRC Tire Balancer and how it compared to the prop balancer?
I haven’t but am still sold on the prop tool. It’s been out for decades and does the job for $10,000 airplanes. I have a jconcpets as well but always go back to the dubro
U mentioned BeachRC , are U local to Myrtle ? I'm interested in getting an rc drag kit , which one would U recommend ? I think there is different trans ratios & other plus/minus things each kit has to offer . Was also thinking of doin a FiveStar conversion kit ? Thanks
I’m very happy with the breakout kit. Hard not to recommend it. If that’s too much to bite off then seems like a Traxxas is a safe bet and eventually move to an rcri or drc chassis. They are more advanced then other current dr10 conversions.
Nice job and great info, but some unsolicited suggestions; 1)... Use a silver Sharpie (fine point is best) to mark the CENTER of the TOP of the tire (on the inside sidewall), after it's through settling. This gives you an absolute zero point to aim for. * I've used the prop balancer for this from day one, and I've been racing 1/8 and 1/10 off-road rc for over 20 years. I always balance my tires, and it definitely helps, but I'm sure it's even more important in drag racing* 2)..You only need ONE piece of putty! Adding more than one is unneeded weight, and it's the worst kind, rotational weight. Instead of adding smaller pieces (putty) on either side of the main (biggest) piece in an attempt to "center" the weight, continue to add to the original piece, but SLIDE the entire chunk of weight LEFT or RIGHT to center that silver mark (up/top). What happens is, when you add that first piece, your original piece of weight is hardly ever EXACTLY center of the offset balance point, so the temptation is to add "left or right" smaller pieces to center it. Just keep sliding the putty left or right/adding more putty until it settles on the bottom (slower and slower as you add weight), and the silver mark s.l.o.w.l.y finds it's TOP center. At some point, you'll be able to spin the tire (or stop it's rotation) on the balancer and the silver mark will not move...... at all ...... no matter where you put it. When you can do that, it's perfectly balanced. PS, since I'm anal about stuff like this, lol, I'll weigh each finished (balanced) tire. You need more than a few sets of tires anyway, so let's say you have six or eight sets of BALANCED rtr rear tires. Weigh them individually and write the weights in grams of each (on the tire itself or number each, 1 through however many on the tire itself, then on paper). All you need to do now it's pair up the closest weights.
Could you possibly walk me through how you made that air pressure tool from a blood pressure cuff. I purchased the two items from Amazon that you linked in description. But having a problem seeing how they go together. Thanks
You’ll want to use the long y piece that has the stethoscope attached. Pull all the pieces off. Then pull of the bulb and the meter and heat the tube ends to slip over the connectors on the two upper tubes of the y and then do the same with the needle end.
Yeah I think we have 2 different kits mine has stethoscope and blood pressure cuff as 2 separate items. And the hoses connected to the cuff. No Y fitting at all
I think Chad Imma try to air up my Big Daddy Belted. I grabbed that Losi sticking my 3.5 with the DRK. Now I know how to set it up. I believe I can get some great results. What Prep you use on the tires again?
Sup man. I used this same clay to balance my wheels and the clay literally flew out of my wheels lol. I cleaned the wheels prior to balancing them and let the clay dry for a day and the same thing keeps happening 🤷 Now I balance another set using JB weld and that has actually held up. Was thinking bout maybe light sanding the wheels to see if that would help the DAS clay actually stick. Question....what tire glue you recommend?
I’ve been thinking of gluing the clay once it gets balanced to see if that helps. I’ve also been people use tungsten putty. I use the usual hobbytown brand of ca snd bob smith tire glue but I have some racers edge stuff on the way to try. Heard it’s good.
Sup man great content. I have a quick question any upgrade out there for DR10 dogbones? Or which from the Team Associated line would fit the DR10? TIA 👍
dr10 takes the b5 platform stuff..i think mip makes some if youre snapping them..if thats the case i would check your ride height and squat..you want them as level as can be before and during the hit..never steep angles or youre going to lose power and risk breaking them..you can raise the ball ends of the sway bar and if you really wanted too space the transmission higher but thats a tall task..not much tuning room on the dr10 chassis
Was really keen to get into the hobby but shit son I want to race a toy car not the real thing to much work in these things I got to cars today but looks like I may sell them
What brand of tire sauce do you recommend? When using tire sauce and tire warmer prior to an onroad race, which is used first?
get stuck
Hello, thanks for the great information! I came across this video and was curious if you had any experience with the SkyRC Tire Balancer and how it compared to the prop balancer?
I haven’t but am still sold on the prop tool. It’s been out for decades and does the job for $10,000 airplanes. I have a jconcpets as well but always go back to the dubro
I'll listen to your wisdom, definitely no need to overcomplicate things if the solution is right here. Looking forward to more tips, thanks!
That’s a lot of prep for no prep racing 🤣
sure is :)
U mentioned BeachRC , are U local to Myrtle ? I'm interested in getting an rc drag kit , which one would U recommend ? I think there is different trans ratios & other plus/minus things each kit has to offer . Was also thinking of doin a FiveStar conversion kit ? Thanks
I’m very happy with the breakout kit. Hard not to recommend it. If that’s too much to bite off then seems like a Traxxas is a safe bet and eventually move to an rcri or drc chassis. They are more advanced then other current dr10 conversions.
Nice job and great info, but some unsolicited suggestions;
1)... Use a silver Sharpie (fine point is best) to mark the CENTER of the TOP of the tire (on the inside sidewall), after it's through settling. This gives you an absolute zero point to aim for.
* I've used the prop balancer for this from day one, and I've been racing 1/8 and 1/10 off-road rc for over 20 years. I always balance my tires, and it definitely helps, but I'm sure it's even more important in drag racing*
2)..You only need ONE piece of putty!
Adding more than one is unneeded weight, and it's the worst kind, rotational weight.
Instead of adding smaller pieces (putty) on either side of the main (biggest) piece in an attempt to "center" the weight, continue to add to the original piece, but SLIDE the entire chunk of weight LEFT or RIGHT to center that silver mark (up/top).
What happens is, when you add that first piece, your original piece of weight is hardly ever EXACTLY center of the offset balance point, so the temptation is to add "left or right" smaller pieces to center it.
Just keep sliding the putty left or right/adding more putty until it settles on the bottom (slower and slower as you add weight), and the silver mark s.l.o.w.l.y finds it's TOP center.
At some point, you'll be able to spin the tire (or stop it's rotation) on the balancer and the silver mark will not move...... at all ...... no matter where you put it. When you can do that, it's perfectly balanced.
PS, since I'm anal about stuff like this, lol, I'll weigh each finished (balanced) tire.
You need more than a few sets of tires anyway, so let's say you have six or eight sets of BALANCED rtr rear tires. Weigh them individually and write the weights in grams of each (on the tire itself or number each, 1 through however many on the tire itself, then on paper).
All you need to do now it's pair up the closest weights.
thata lot of helpful info. ill make sure to mention or post this comment for everyone to see
Nice videos.I have a question how many channels do I need for a radio for no prep rc racing.
not many..just a few extra for maybe getting full steer back so you can drive back easier
When you let the car sit there, do you want the weight off the tires all the time, so they dont get flat spots and out of balance?
I usually keep it up.
Could you possibly walk me through how you made that air pressure tool from a blood pressure cuff. I purchased the two items from Amazon that you linked in description. But having a problem seeing how they go together. Thanks
You’ll want to use the long y piece that has the stethoscope attached. Pull all the pieces off. Then pull of the bulb and the meter and heat the tube ends to slip over the connectors on the two upper tubes of the y and then do the same with the needle end.
Yeah I think we have 2 different kits mine has stethoscope and blood pressure cuff as 2 separate items. And the hoses connected to the cuff. No Y fitting at all
You should be able to cut the ear plug ends off and the stethoscope and that’s how you get the y
How many passes are you getting from a set of reactions?
I used only a few sets all last year. But ymmv
Thank you
I think Chad Imma try to air up my Big Daddy Belted. I grabbed that Losi sticking my 3.5 with the DRK. Now I know how to set it up. I believe I can get some great results. What Prep you use on the tires again?
Mostly bettlejuice and heaters. Sometimes reaction time when it’s working. You can get beetle juice and gremlin goo from stickyickylreps website.
Thank you .@@Dorkyand40
Sup man. I used this same clay to balance my wheels and the clay literally flew out of my wheels lol. I cleaned the wheels prior to balancing them and let the clay dry for a day and the same thing keeps happening 🤷 Now I balance another set using JB weld and that has actually held up. Was thinking bout maybe light sanding the wheels to see if that would help the DAS clay actually stick. Question....what tire glue you recommend?
I’ve been thinking of gluing the clay once it gets balanced to see if that helps. I’ve also been people use tungsten putty. I use the usual hobbytown brand of ca snd bob smith tire glue but I have some racers edge stuff on the way to try. Heard it’s good.
@@Dorkyand40 cool tnx
Awesome video as usual! One question…. How are you using the tire on the drill?
Beachrc has a rc tire chuck. I’ve seen them on Amain too
@@Dorkyand40 thanks. I’ll pick one up. Also, what grit sandpaper have you found works best or does it really matter?
No problem. I use 80 cause I’m impatient maybe 100 or 120 would be ok. Just take longer.
Sup man great content. I have a quick question any upgrade out there for DR10 dogbones? Or which from the Team Associated line would fit the DR10? TIA 👍
dr10 takes the b5 platform stuff..i think mip makes some if youre snapping them..if thats the case i would check your ride height and squat..you want them as level as can be before and during the hit..never steep angles or youre going to lose power and risk breaking them..you can raise the ball ends of the sway bar and if you really wanted too space the transmission higher but thats a tall task..not much tuning room on the dr10 chassis
@@Dorkyand40 cool man tnx for the info 👍
i am having a hell of a time with my tekin rx8 g3, tekin 3.5t red line motor, always blowing my tires off on launches
It’s going to be really hard to get that going without radio ramping with something like a sanwa m17 or futaba
@@Dorkyand40 I'm running a spectrum dx6r
Yeah. Need to look for a speed setting on throttle. Goin got be hard.
@@Dorkyand40 I have a stage type thing in my radio
Was really keen to get into the hobby but shit son I want to race a toy car not the real thing to much work in these things I got to cars today but looks like I may sell them
Lot of people feel the same. Hopefully it all calms down and locally people just do their own thing.
Can you give me a call 🤙