Does this harm the sidewall at all overtime from to much flex? I just got f rated 35x12.5r20 on a 9 wide wheel and I’m concerned about a sidewall blowout if I go too low
I can’t even tell you how much this is helping me because I just bought brand new tires and they’re very expensive and I don’t want to wear through them fast so thank you
All true, I have been running 40 psi on 275 65r20's Cooper xlt's 95% commuter miles 09' ram 3500 megacab. Last set I seen 65,000 miles with a perfect wear pattern. Road force balanced and balance rings! They work very well together! Good info on your channel!
Do you run 40psi on all 4 tires? Do you inflate to higher pressures for towing and hauling ? I have a Sierra 2500hd that I’m running 48 psi all around after the chalk test that seems to produce perfect wear pattern, but think I will need to increase for towing and hauling. Cheers 🍻
Been practicing this same experiment for a long time on my truck and much good info on here. There is one issue though beyond proper tire wear based on a tire psi on a given load and I researched things like why my Ford Ranger for its optional tire sizes says 30 psi front and 35 psi in the rear. And that's handling. As well as testing this with my own experience if you run higher tire psi in the front vs the rear you start encouraging the truck to oversteer. If your run more tire psi in the rear vs the front you encourage the truck to understeer. I also found that my trucks braking performance was worse when the front tires were set at a higher psi and given what allegedly would help with even wear and given more weight is on the front of the truck. When all tires were set to 30 psi this did make for a nice plush ride and neutral handling with slightly more body roll in turns but my issue with that was that being a 3.0 v6 Ranger it robbed so much power from my truck mostly going up hills or pulling from a dead stop that it was killing my mpg. Also there can be an error if one uses the load inflation table method or chalk method for tire psi when comparing one tire to another and disregarding a vehicles weight. So I have a total of 8 tires for my truck that are upsized tires that are actually factory options for this 4x4 Ford Ranger. The stock size for this truck is a P235/75r15 SL. Again factory tire psi 30 front with front axle weight of 2,710 and rear psi of 35psi rear axle weight 2,750. The first optional tire size I run is a P265/75r15 SL tire. The rangers that got this fresh off the showroom floor still say it should be 30 psi front and 35 psi Rear even though this bigger tire size can carry more weight with less psi. The other tire size option which I run is a 31x10.5r15 LT tire load range C . Ford only offered this on the slightly newer Rangers with the FX4 level 2 package and they say 30 psi on all 4s even though at that psi they carry less weight than even the stock size tires for my Ranger. So there is a lot of variables here and modified tire psi is also no replacement for proper tire rotation. fronts can be prone to shoulder wear but not just cause of weight alone but because of caster involving camber roll in a turning condition as the tire tilts on it's axis wearing on both outside shoulders of the tire. This can be mistaken for under inflation when it's not. So right now The stock psi recommendations for my truck seems to work best as it aids in understeer and adds stability when cornering even though I'm not carrying any weight in the bed. I also think different tire profiles can dictate weather a staggered tire psi should be used or not. After all not every Ford Ranger like my 99 or newer or older want's a staggered tire psi. some say 30 psi all around and some say 35psi all around. But none of them tell you to run 35 psi front and 30 rear because of positive feedback handing characteristics. Also different model Rangers or Trim packages weight differently too. Something to note that still requires some experiment on my end though is that since the P265/75r15 tires carry more weight than stock size or my 31x10.5r15 LT load range C tires The P rated 265/75r15 tires actually ride worse than the LT variant of more or less same size and using the factory tire psi. So the next experiment is to run 26psi front and 30psi rear on the P265/75r15 tires instead of the 30 psi front and 35 psi rear. This gets complicated and I've messed with this so much but this is my input on the whole situation. Also note for under inflated situations. Your load rating decreases the faster you go on the highway so consider this as well as Dynamic forces involved with turning at speed. I'm neither pro over inflation or pro under inflation.
Great video. My LB7 I bought a few months back had new tires when I bought it and it was always such a horrible ride, especially on the terrible roads in Sacramento. Checked my pressures and they were 65 psi all around, so I lowered it to 45 front, 40 rear and it made a HUGE difference. Don't know why I didn't bother to think about tire pressure to help smooth things out. Love your content man, keep it up. Can't wait for video on your new rig!
Your channel has been helpful, I just bought a 98 Dodge 2500, 24 valve. Glad to see you just got one too. Look forward to seeing more videos on your 2nd Gen.
Great video. I’ve been preaching tire pressures on pickups for ever. So many friends I know complain about their trucks ride quality, mostly newer F150’s, choppy on the highway. Then they get in my 18 F150 and comment on how smooth it is. Only difference is I run about 32 psi and theirs are 40-45 psi. The dealer has adjusted mine almost every time I take it in for an oil change till I told them not to adjust the tire pressure! As you mentioned, the cheapest way to improve your pickup! Good job.
Yes I run 32 cold on all four. I have a 2022 F150 now but still run this pressure. I haul a 5th wheel camper so when I pull I up the rears to 50 and fronts to 40.
This is great information, and should be more widely known than it is. 2006 RAM 2500 diesel with 35X12.5R18 tires here. Previously with Toyo M/Ts I set them to 45F/35R unloaded and would go up to 60 in rear with trailer. Just replaced with Toyo RT Trails, and have found that maybe 40F/28R unloaded per the chalk test but it does feel maybe a little low. Planning to go back up to 45F/35R and see. The RT Trails are F load range, which is wild. Tire dealer set them to factory specs and while the truck felt like it rolled very easily, it was kind of skatey on the road and the rear would easily dance side to side on choppy gravel roads leading to the house.
Not sure where you’re getting this, I wouldn’t trust those sources because it’s pretty well understood that tire pressure is set by manufacturer based on load tables. Which you’re partially correct, when fully loaded it’s possible the rear tires will need to be inflated greater than the fronts. If you inflate to the door tag, especially with oversized tires, you’re just going to burn the centers out of them and have an unnecessarily rough ride.
@Kebmoz yeah I've noticed that. I went from 33 stock to 37s and been running 45 -40 front back and now i just went down to 35-30 and it's much better now. Smoother and less wear on the middle. 65 doesn't even make sense. Idk why they put on sticker
Look at your tire rating. MaxLoad divided by max psi cold give you a number with in^2 as the units. Divide your corner weight by that number and you get psi. That's what I've been doing for 20 years. Rear tires of my f350 are at 24psi with and empty truck.
It's much simpler to contact the tire manufacturer and ask them. I have 35" Toyo AT Open Country LT295/65R20 tires on my 2005 Dodge 2500 and when I had them installed at Discount Tire they put 80 psi in all the tires. I contacted Toyo and they recommend light load: 40 front, 35 rear/heavy load: 46 front, 51 rear. I've put 42,070 miles on these tires so far with no problems.
Sheesh. I had toyo AT on my stock gmc wheels and it was a horrible ride for years! Bumpy and hard and never realized the tire pressure would be the fault. I blamed the tires lol, tire pressure might have been at max pressure 80psi and tire wear still has 40-50% tred left but uneven wear as shown in video... Got new tires AT and America's tire recommended 35 psi all around. I'm floating now and way better ride
This video is a huge help! Just burned through a set of wrangler workhorses in 20k miles on the rear of my duramax. I knew because of how bad they wore off in the middle it was due to over inflation, but I didn't realize just how overinflated they actually were. Just got new and the tech put them at 70. I'll be dropping that way down tomorrow
34/41 is perfect wear but 30/37 is prime ride quality for me. When I got the free rotation the techs were surprised at the pressure vs wear for the 20k miles I have on them. One of the guys dropped his and texted me after saying how much better the truck was, his wife noticed hahah. He went from 48 front down to 37 like me
I have a ford E-250 and trying to figure out a good pressure to run. Don't want the ride to be soo ruff but don't want to have issues because of going too low.
Dude thank you for this video I have a 2016 Ram Rebel. The door is 55 45. It came factory with a 285 70r18, but road like ass on bumpy dirt roads, from what I read it is because they are e load, and ram I guess did some calculations to find best fuel economy/load rating. My shit is usually empty minus decked drawer system and guns. I stepped up to 285 75r17 got a bit more height, and now on 315 70r17 which is barely taller. All e load. On carlis website they recommended low 30s something about having more air volume you don't need as much pressure. Then I found a tire swap calculator, for the 285 75r17 they recommended like a 3psi drop from stock front and rear. For the 315s they recommend me run 45 front 35 rear. Boy the tpms in New dodges is annoying. I'm currently running 50 40 (lowest I can go without setting off the annoying tpms. I need to try the chalk method. Or do you think it would be more accurate to find a scale and try to go off that chart you showed? I'm on some hankook at's.
Outstanding video. One thing....the factory door sticker does NOT tell you to run 80psi. It tells you, in order to run the max capacity...you have to run 80spi or whatever The factory door sticker is a full sentence, with weight and tire pressure.... just the full sentence on tbe sidewall of tires. None of them, simply say.....tire needs to be at 80psi.....
thanks man, i had always argued with dad over our ford ranger's tire pressure, i felt the car too stiff on bumbs, so much my back hurts also around here, the roads are bad, but he often use it to go on highway, so he prefer higher pressure i think we need an air compressor at our garage to set the pressure before leaving, so each can put the pressure depending on where to go
My 2016 super duty 6.7 had 34/10.5/20 at 65 psi. Horrible ride quality. Stock size. Now have 37/12.5/18 with Carli pintop Front 45 psi, rear 40 psi = butter!!! Great video 👍
My 2016 super duty, has 35x13.5r20s all four at 60 psi and quality is absolute shit, there brand new tires and brand new arkon wheels and she rides normal down a flat road just bumpy as hell from the smallest bumps but once i hit 80 and above the ass end starts shaking, but ive taken it to 2 different shops and each one says there balanced so idk what hell is going on it only does it at 80 and above but didnt do it with the mudgrapplers when i had them or the ridge grapplers when i had my stocks on, so either a tire is warped or a rim is bent or something but i dnt see how they either could be if it rides normal until 80
@@thatcrazycouple2364 sounds like you have a tire that's slightly out of round, a balancer won't correct that they'll be able to zero it and technically it'll be "balanced" but usually with that kind of defect you have to mount it up in a special machine that'll spin the tire and shave it down a tiny bit to make it round. Happens all the time with all terrains and mud terrains
Lol. Just after I have yapped on about tires and Tire psi I left out some details that I feel need to be added. At least from the experience I've learned. So from a load inflation stand point comparing My P265/75r15 SL tires to my LT31x10.5r15 load Range C flotation tires they are roughly the same size but the LT tire is usually de rated on a given load compacity because they expect you to overload it. The P rated variant of the same size tire when choosing an inflation psi they have to add a 10% overage compacity to it for it to perform properly on the same vehicle due to it not being as strong of a construction. Situations like this sorta debunk some myths that a larger tire being a bigger container should require less air pressure to support the same weight vs a small tire. The other thing is rim width because of how that tire profile is shaped onto the rim. The tire options that I have stated Ford recommends the same rim width to all of them including my stock size which I think is 7.5 They do offer the 8.0 width option for the 31x10.5r15s though. But I had not explained the tire psi I've tried outside of factory recommendations yet to give the conclusions to how I got to this point so here's some data.. So if you use a tire load inflation calculator starting with my stock size and front axle psi of 30 the P235/75r15 SL tire carries 1,881lbs. If I try to match that load rating with the 31x10.5LT load range C tire it has to be 34psi and will carry 1,731 lbs. For the Rear factory size tire and tire psi of 35 it says. the 31x10.5LT Load Range C tire has to be inflated to 38 psi and will carry 1,873 lbs. Reminder these are to match the factory size tire load inflation requirements. I can tell you now my truck road absolutely terrible at those new pressures. Also braking sucked and the steering was too sensitive. So for a while I backed the rear down to matched the new tire psi up front. Between 34 or 35 psi. Ya know what I got over half the life of that tire at this point? I got center tread wear 35 psi was too much for all 4 tires and when I realized Ford had a tire psi figured out for that size which was 30psi I then adjusted to that and the truck did much better. But then again 30 psi in the rear robbed my truck of power on those tires. As for the P rated tires..The P265/75R15s? Ya. Apparently I have to air down to match the factory tire sizes and it's indicating to run 26 psi on all 4s as it has more than enough compacity. 2,160lbs at 26 psi to be exact. Yes It makes the truck ride nice but robs some power and cornering performance is reduced as the tires squeal in the turn and more body roll is present. Tire wear isn't too bad so far. So ya see how this becomes a conundrum? And comparing tire to tire on load compacity without figuring out the weight of the vehicle and design intentions of how the vehicle is supposed to handle will leave you with bad results. Another example of this is say My ranger Came with the optional P265/75r15 tires off the show room floor and I wanted to put the 31x10.5R15 Load Range Cs on it and I was gonna use a load inflation chart or calculator to see what the new tire psi should be. Well now it says the LTs need to be 46 psi to carry 21,34 lbs of that of the P265/75r15 tire has at 30 psi just on the front tires alone. That's Waaaay to much. So how do I roughly know how much weight each tire is carrying? Ya take the front and rear axle weight and divide them by 2. Not both axles combined but separately. So in my case my front axle at 2,710 lbs divided by 2 is 1,355. So even my LTs tires are not technically overloaded even though they carry less weight at the factory 30 psi as my stock tires do as these LTs carry 1,595 lbs at Fords Recommended psi. So technically they are not under inflated. See how this goes? You will never carry that much weight with your ranger and without knowing the weight of your truck to what tire psi you should actually run your just comparing tire to tire. So this is my long discussion on dealing with optional tire sizes and what tire psi you run. More than likely in the case of factory optional tire sizes offered by the factory and proper load indexes and speed ratings as well Your better off sticking with their tire psi recommendations even if it's the same psi. If you go out of factory tire size options then ya kind of have to fall back on things like the chalk tests and load inflation tables. Mind you I'm talking also about light duty trucks. Not heavy duty ones that recommend 80 psi in the rear when ya drive around unloaded all the time. Cause that's the tire put at it's max psi and There's no need to be. So that's my input. Tire types and brands in question I used to make my own discoveries on? General Tire Hts P265/75r15 SL and Dextero DAT1s 31x10.5r15 LTs Load Range C tires. One last thing to note: Yes my tire gauges are calibrated fairly well so the pressures I experimented with are accurate. They are not under or over reporting my findings.
Sadly that wasn’t me, but I’ll be up there in September! There’s more than a few similar looking builds running around now which is pretty cool honestly!
I run all my tires at 30psi just for daily driving, it makes for a better ride on our shitty Manitoba roads and is less harsh on the suspension. If I'm gonna tow something heavy I will of course fill my tires more, that is why I keep a good air compressor in my truck.
I've got 33in nitto ridge grappler on my truck and the rears will never fully touch the ground. Could be at 30lbs and the outer edges still wont touch because no enough weight back there.
Great vid. 🤙🏼Keeping in mind tries will heat up, depending on what you are filling the tire with. Nitrogen, Air, etc. Thus need to account for that, also.
Got a question. I’ve been looking for a 5 inch straight pipe for a 06 5.9. I can’t find one anywhere, I used to see them all the time. Know where to find one?
He explained that you can adjust the warning pressure different ways. You can also change a lot of Chrysler settings with the jscan app 20$ and a cheap obd2 Bluetooth scanner off Amazon 20$. It let's you change lots of setting on your truck.
I covered a few ways to fix that! For Ram trucks you can use Alpha OBD or the AEV Pro Cal SNAP to fix that VERY easily! www.cjcoffroad.com/products/procal-snap-for-2019-hd-ram?_pos=1&_sid=4a6701149&_ss=r
My 07 2500 Laramie Sport 5.9 48RE is on BFG All Terrain T/A's 37 12.5 17" C load range, unloaded I run 35 front and 25 rear only put the rear to 45 or 50 psi with full load. Love the way it drives with these tires I absolutely hate the E rated tires, way to fricken rough riding and I don't need them on this truck.
Not directly related. I run light duty winter tires on my HD RAM 2500; not a diesel. It isn't that much heavier than a 1500 RAM 2wd regular cab. Also, mine isn't a 4X4 either. Using the tire load ratings, I can still haul 1500 lbs. before I need the load range E we use when hauling the camper. Like you we use the truck for back road exploration all winter. Up here in Canada the back roads are graded but icy. Using standard sized tires I run 32 psia all around. I get very good fuel economy, around 22 mpg Canadian which is close to 20 psi American.
The door sticker is for stock tires at max load. If you’re not on the stock tires and not towing or hauling max, that pressure is irrelevant. I run 35/25 empty and 18/15 off road.
I always thought it was a typo or auto correct mistake when I would read in forums " cummings".....this is the first time I've heard someone say it instead of cummins
great video as usual ......... I would love to know your thoughts on Cummins fuel additives for extra lubricant once in awhile (I have a 2021 6.7 3500)
Definitely worthwhile! On the 2021 trucks with the CP4, lubricity is everything for keeping that pump happy. You should run something like optilube in every single tank to prevent issues!
Cold in my opinion. Keeps the baseline more consistent. If you run 40psi cold and just drive a mile, it may go up a couple psi vs if you got on the highway for an hour it could go up double or triple that. If you filled the tire to 40psi hot it could go back down to 35ish cold and then you could be too low. I’d rather run a little higher than lower. Edit: fill to appropriate pressure cold then drive around to heat the tire up, then do the chalk line. Just my opinions hope they help!
What tire pressure do you run on your 3rd Gen? I have a 2006 currently running 55 front 50 rear 325x65x18 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. After watching this, I believe I may be over inflated.
My 2004 Dodge Ram 3500 DRW weighs 7760 lbs empty. I have Nitto Dura Grappler LT235/80R17 tires. I'm assuming that I divide 7760 by 4. Which gives me 1940 (weight on each tire). Then I use the Nitto Load Inflation Table. Is this correct? Based on the above calculation, I should be running 43 psi front (single), and 48 psi rear (dual). Please let me know if I did this correctly.
Remember that the weight isn’t even front to back though. The front weight on the truck is significantly higher than the back. My suggestion is to put the truck at 48psi, and then go do the chalk line test. Your rear pressures on a dually will be surprisingly low unloaded (since you distribute weight over 4 tires) loaded rear pressures will be what the max load sidewall pressure states though.
It’s a very minimal difference. Experiment on your truck, but I think you’ll find that the improved ride quality etc is well worth the small drop in economy!
@@hickboy3067That may be correct if you have larger tires or a light truck. Let me explain the math a little more using rough estimates of my setup. 3500 lbs max payload ÷ 80 psi = 43.75 pounds per psi. 7000 lb truck ÷ 4 = 1750 per wheel without using scales just for the example. 1750 ÷ 43.75 = 40 psi per tire if my setup was actually a perfect 50/50 weight
That is actually false! Please see page 12 for the load inflation table for a Toyo MT. The safe low pressure limit depends entirely on the weight that’s on the tire: www.toyotires.com/media/3729/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
Buying massive load capacity trucks will ride brutally if you don't put a load weight onto them . Buy a light duty truck and enjoy. I had a friend who bought a 1978 Ford F-150 two wheel drive that had a real nice ride.
Why would you run lower pressure in the rear and higher in front wouldn’t she want to do opposite of that to increase the steering stability? I’ll see you can call any of these companies like NIto and Toyo And they should be able to give you a good estimate based on your vehicle weight.
My super duty has 33x12.5x17. recommended 75psi but the ride is terrible and hard to keep on the road. Swaying is terrible at 75psi. I do tow/haul about 500-800 lbs and tow a 9000lb trailer a few times a year. I just keep 50lbs front and rear and don't over think it! I have never had a problem. All that physics, quantum mechanics, astrology is a bunch of crap. Just use common sense and go with it.
You should ALWAYS run the psi that is on the label of your door. Tire size doesn't matter at all, the truck is still going to put the same amount of weight when empty and when hauling. I have a 2006 2500 mega cab and there is a psi table for when you're empty or loaded, and I've been following that psi list with my 35x12.50R20's and I haven't had a single uneven wear pattern
That could not be more false. All tires require completely different pressures. It all depends on the load inflation table of the exact tire you’re running.
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Does this harm the sidewall at all overtime from to much flex? I just got f rated 35x12.5r20 on a 9 wide wheel and I’m concerned about a sidewall blowout if I go too low
I don’t even have a diesel but I still love your channel.
Most of this stuff is just general truck info!
Same here.
I can’t even tell you how much this is helping me because I just bought brand new tires and they’re very expensive and I don’t want to wear through them fast so thank you
Happy to help!
my 65psi and 80psi at the back is brutal ride!!!!! great video...i will adjust my asap!!! thank you
All true, I have been running 40 psi on 275 65r20's Cooper xlt's 95% commuter miles 09' ram 3500 megacab. Last set I seen 65,000 miles with a perfect wear pattern. Road force balanced and balance rings! They work very well together! Good info on your channel!
Do you run 40psi on all 4 tires? Do you inflate to higher pressures for towing and hauling ? I have a Sierra 2500hd that I’m running 48 psi all around after the chalk test that seems to produce perfect wear pattern, but think I will need to increase for towing and hauling. Cheers 🍻
Been practicing this same experiment for a long time on my truck and much good info on here. There is one issue though beyond proper tire wear based on a tire psi on a given load and I researched things like why my Ford Ranger for its optional tire sizes says 30 psi front and 35 psi in the rear. And that's handling. As well as testing this with my own experience if you run higher tire psi in the front vs the rear you start encouraging the truck to oversteer. If your run more tire psi in the rear vs the front you encourage the truck to understeer. I also found that my trucks braking performance was worse when the front tires were set at a higher psi and given what allegedly would help with even wear and given more weight is on the front of the truck. When all tires were set to 30 psi this did make for a nice plush ride and neutral handling with slightly more body roll in turns but my issue with that was that being a 3.0 v6 Ranger it robbed so much power from my truck mostly going up hills or pulling from a dead stop that it was killing my mpg. Also there can be an error if one uses the load inflation table method or chalk method for tire psi when comparing one tire to another and disregarding a vehicles weight. So I have a total of 8 tires for my truck that are upsized tires that are actually factory options for this 4x4 Ford Ranger. The stock size for this truck is a P235/75r15 SL. Again factory tire psi 30 front with front axle weight of 2,710 and rear psi of 35psi rear axle weight 2,750. The first optional tire size I run is a P265/75r15 SL tire. The rangers that got this fresh off the showroom floor still say it should be 30 psi front and 35 psi Rear even though this bigger tire size can carry more weight with less psi. The other tire size option which I run is a 31x10.5r15 LT tire load range C . Ford only offered this on the slightly newer Rangers with the FX4 level 2 package and they say 30 psi on all 4s even though at that psi they carry less weight than even the stock size tires for my Ranger. So there is a lot of variables here and modified tire psi is also no replacement for proper tire rotation. fronts can be prone to shoulder wear but not just cause of weight alone but because of caster involving camber roll in a turning condition as the tire tilts on it's axis wearing on both outside shoulders of the tire. This can be mistaken for under inflation when it's not. So right now The stock psi recommendations for my truck seems to work best as it aids in understeer and adds stability when cornering even though I'm not carrying any weight in the bed. I also think different tire profiles can dictate weather a staggered tire psi should be used or not. After all not every Ford Ranger like my 99 or newer or older want's a staggered tire psi. some say 30 psi all around and some say 35psi all around. But none of them tell you to run 35 psi front and 30 rear because of positive feedback handing characteristics. Also different model Rangers or Trim packages weight differently too. Something to note that still requires some experiment on my end though is that since the P265/75r15 tires carry more weight than stock size or my 31x10.5r15 LT load range C tires The P rated 265/75r15 tires actually ride worse than the LT variant of more or less same size and using the factory tire psi. So the next experiment is to run 26psi front and 30psi rear on the P265/75r15 tires instead of the 30 psi front and 35 psi rear. This gets complicated and I've messed with this so much but this is my input on the whole situation. Also note for under inflated situations. Your load rating decreases the faster you go on the highway so consider this as well as Dynamic forces involved with turning at speed. I'm neither pro over inflation or pro under inflation.
Great video. My LB7 I bought a few months back had new tires when I bought it and it was always such a horrible ride, especially on the terrible roads in Sacramento. Checked my pressures and they were 65 psi all around, so I lowered it to 45 front, 40 rear and it made a HUGE difference. Don't know why I didn't bother to think about tire pressure to help smooth things out. Love your content man, keep it up. Can't wait for video on your new rig!
Thanks. I'm going to use this to dial in the tire pressure on my Prius.
😂
The chalk method is so simple and easy to do. Thanks!
Your channel has been helpful, I just bought a 98 Dodge 2500, 24 valve. Glad to see you just got one too. Look forward to seeing more videos on your 2nd Gen.
Great video. I’ve been preaching tire pressures on pickups for ever. So many friends I know complain about their trucks ride quality, mostly newer F150’s, choppy on the highway. Then they get in my 18 F150 and comment on how smooth it is. Only difference is I run about 32 psi and theirs are 40-45 psi. The dealer has adjusted mine almost every time I take it in for an oil change till I told them not to adjust the tire pressure! As you mentioned, the cheapest way to improve your pickup! Good job.
@john do you run 32 psi on all four? I have a ram rebel on kenda 35/12.50/20.
@johnfox7740
@johnfox7740. Let me know please.
Yes I run 32 cold on all four. I have a 2022 F150 now but still run this pressure. I haul a 5th wheel camper so when I pull I up the rears to 50 and fronts to 40.
45/40 on my 4th gen with Carli leveling and it’s great.
This is great information, and should be more widely known than it is. 2006 RAM 2500 diesel with 35X12.5R18 tires here. Previously with Toyo M/Ts I set them to 45F/35R unloaded and would go up to 60 in rear with trailer. Just replaced with Toyo RT Trails, and have found that maybe 40F/28R unloaded per the chalk test but it does feel maybe a little low. Planning to go back up to 45F/35R and see. The RT Trails are F load range, which is wild. Tire dealer set them to factory specs and while the truck felt like it rolled very easily, it was kind of skatey on the road and the rear would easily dance side to side on choppy gravel roads leading to the house.
I've heard from everywhere that running lower in rear is not good. That if anything, the rear is supposed to be higher
Not sure where you’re getting this, I wouldn’t trust those sources because it’s pretty well understood that tire pressure is set by manufacturer based on load tables. Which you’re partially correct, when fully loaded it’s possible the rear tires will need to be inflated greater than the fronts. If you inflate to the door tag, especially with oversized tires, you’re just going to burn the centers out of them and have an unnecessarily rough ride.
@Kebmoz yeah I've noticed that. I went from 33 stock to 37s and been running 45 -40 front back and now i just went down to 35-30 and it's much better now. Smoother and less wear on the middle. 65 doesn't even make sense. Idk why they put on sticker
dude at 9:43 was checking out your truck and did a double take lol. who can blame him though
Look at your tire rating. MaxLoad divided by max psi cold give you a number with in^2 as the units. Divide your corner weight by that number and you get psi. That's what I've been doing for 20 years. Rear tires of my f350 are at 24psi with and empty truck.
Can you break that down a bit
Just look at the chart I have in the video for a great basic guide!
It's much simpler to contact the tire manufacturer and ask them. I have 35" Toyo AT Open Country LT295/65R20 tires on my 2005 Dodge 2500 and when I had them installed at Discount Tire they put 80 psi in all the tires. I contacted Toyo and they recommend light load: 40 front, 35 rear/heavy load: 46 front, 51 rear. I've put 42,070 miles on these tires so far with no problems.
Sheesh. I had toyo AT on my stock gmc wheels and it was a horrible ride for years! Bumpy and hard and never realized the tire pressure would be the fault. I blamed the tires lol, tire pressure might have been at max pressure 80psi and tire wear still has 40-50% tred left but uneven wear as shown in video...
Got new tires AT and America's tire recommended 35 psi all around. I'm floating now and way better ride
Thank you for this literally getting new toyos tomorrow
Just bought a 2nd gen cummins with aftermarket tires and wheels. This got me to the perfect pressure for me
Best explanation of tire pressure!!! Thank you!
This video is a huge help! Just burned through a set of wrangler workhorses in 20k miles on the rear of my duramax. I knew because of how bad they wore off in the middle it was due to over inflation, but I didn't realize just how overinflated they actually were. Just got new and the tech put them at 70. I'll be dropping that way down tomorrow
What a great way to to set ur tire pressure and ware I am going to do this this weekend
the stance on the Ram 2500 is awesome
Yep I do this same thing in my power wagon, every time I get to the tire shop they freak out lol
34/41 is perfect wear but 30/37 is prime ride quality for me. When I got the free rotation the techs were surprised at the pressure vs wear for the 20k miles I have on them. One of the guys dropped his and texted me after saying how much better the truck was, his wife noticed hahah. He went from 48 front down to 37 like me
On the 30/37 are you referring to 30 rear and 37 front or the other way around 30 front 37 rear?
I have a ford E-250 and trying to figure out a good pressure to run. Don't want the ride to be soo ruff but don't want to have issues because of going too low.
Dude thank you for this video I have a 2016 Ram Rebel. The door is 55 45. It came factory with a 285 70r18, but road like ass on bumpy dirt roads, from what I read it is because they are e load, and ram I guess did some calculations to find best fuel economy/load rating. My shit is usually empty minus decked drawer system and guns. I stepped up to 285 75r17 got a bit more height, and now on 315 70r17 which is barely taller. All e load. On carlis website they recommended low 30s something about having more air volume you don't need as much pressure. Then I found a tire swap calculator, for the 285 75r17 they recommended like a 3psi drop from stock front and rear. For the 315s they recommend me run 45 front 35 rear. Boy the tpms in New dodges is annoying. I'm currently running 50 40 (lowest I can go without setting off the annoying tpms. I need to try the chalk method. Or do you think it would be more accurate to find a scale and try to go off that chart you showed? I'm on some hankook at's.
I believe those tpm sensors can get programmed to a lower psi to avoid it coming up on your truck
I’d say any tire shop should be able to do it
haha FIANCE... congrats! another great video. love your content. thanks for all the hard work.
Outstanding video.
One thing....the factory door sticker does NOT tell you to run 80psi.
It tells you, in order to run the max capacity...you have to run 80spi or whatever
The factory door sticker is a full sentence, with weight and tire pressure.... just the full sentence on tbe sidewall of tires.
None of them, simply say.....tire needs to be at 80psi.....
I've got a 6.7, running 45/40 on Cooper AT3 unloaded, sometimes 5 psi lower, runs pretty smooth. If in doubt, 50 all round.
thanks man, i had always argued with dad over our ford ranger's tire pressure, i felt the car too stiff on bumbs, so much my back hurts
also around here, the roads are bad, but he often use it to go on highway, so he prefer higher pressure
i think we need an air compressor at our garage to set the pressure before leaving, so each can put the pressure depending on where to go
My 2016 super duty 6.7 had 34/10.5/20 at 65 psi. Horrible ride quality. Stock size.
Now have 37/12.5/18 with Carli pintop
Front 45 psi, rear 40 psi = butter!!!
Great video 👍
My 2016 super duty, has 35x13.5r20s all four at 60 psi and quality is absolute shit, there brand new tires and brand new arkon wheels and she rides normal down a flat road just bumpy as hell from the smallest bumps but once i hit 80 and above the ass end starts shaking, but ive taken it to 2 different shops and each one says there balanced so idk what hell is going on it only does it at 80 and above but didnt do it with the mudgrapplers when i had them or the ridge grapplers when i had my stocks on, so either a tire is warped or a rim is bent or something but i dnt see how they either could be if it rides normal until 80
@@thatcrazycouple2364 sounds like you have a tire that's slightly out of round, a balancer won't correct that they'll be able to zero it and technically it'll be "balanced" but usually with that kind of defect you have to mount it up in a special machine that'll spin the tire and shave it down a tiny bit to make it round. Happens all the time with all terrains and mud terrains
Great content once again. It's like you're reading my mind.
Lol. Just after I have yapped on about tires and Tire psi I left out some details that I feel need to be added. At least from the experience I've learned. So from a load inflation stand point comparing My P265/75r15 SL tires to my LT31x10.5r15 load Range C flotation tires they are roughly the same size but the LT tire is usually de rated on a given load compacity because they expect you to overload it. The P rated variant of the same size tire when choosing an inflation psi they have to add a 10% overage compacity to it for it to perform properly on the same vehicle due to it not being as strong of a construction. Situations like this sorta debunk some myths that a larger tire being a bigger container should require less air pressure to support the same weight vs a small tire. The other thing is rim width because of how that tire profile is shaped onto the rim. The tire options that I have stated Ford recommends the same rim width to all of them including my stock size which I think is 7.5 They do offer the 8.0 width option for the 31x10.5r15s though. But I had not explained the tire psi I've tried outside of factory recommendations yet to give the conclusions to how I got to this point so here's some data.. So if you use a tire load inflation calculator starting with my stock size and front axle psi of 30 the P235/75r15 SL tire carries 1,881lbs. If I try to match that load rating with the 31x10.5LT load range C tire it has to be 34psi and will carry 1,731 lbs. For the Rear factory size tire and tire psi of 35 it says. the 31x10.5LT Load Range C tire has to be inflated to 38 psi and will carry 1,873 lbs. Reminder these are to match the factory size tire load inflation requirements. I can tell you now my truck road absolutely terrible at those new pressures. Also braking sucked and the steering was too sensitive. So for a while I backed the rear down to matched the new tire psi up front. Between 34 or 35 psi. Ya know what I got over half the life of that tire at this point? I got center tread wear 35 psi was too much for all 4 tires and when I realized Ford had a tire psi figured out for that size which was 30psi I then adjusted to that and the truck did much better. But then again 30 psi in the rear robbed my truck of power on those tires. As for the P rated tires..The P265/75R15s? Ya. Apparently I have to air down to match the factory tire sizes and it's indicating to run 26 psi on all 4s as it has more than enough compacity. 2,160lbs at 26 psi to be exact. Yes It makes the truck ride nice but robs some power and cornering performance is reduced as the tires squeal in the turn and more body roll is present. Tire wear isn't too bad so far. So ya see how this becomes a conundrum? And comparing tire to tire on load compacity without figuring out the weight of the vehicle and design intentions of how the vehicle is supposed to handle will leave you with bad results. Another example of this is say My ranger Came with the optional P265/75r15 tires off the show room floor and I wanted to put the 31x10.5R15 Load Range Cs on it and I was gonna use a load inflation chart or calculator to see what the new tire psi should be. Well now it says the LTs need to be 46 psi to carry 21,34 lbs of that of the P265/75r15 tire has at 30 psi just on the front tires alone. That's Waaaay to much. So how do I roughly know how much weight each tire is carrying? Ya take the front and rear axle weight and divide them by 2. Not both axles combined but separately. So in my case my front axle at 2,710 lbs divided by 2 is 1,355. So even my LTs tires are not technically overloaded even though they carry less weight at the factory 30 psi as my stock tires do as these LTs carry 1,595 lbs at Fords Recommended psi. So technically they are not under inflated. See how this goes? You will never carry that much weight with your ranger and without knowing the weight of your truck to what tire psi you should actually run your just comparing tire to tire. So this is my long discussion on dealing with optional tire sizes and what tire psi you run. More than likely in the case of factory optional tire sizes offered by the factory and proper load indexes and speed ratings as well Your better off sticking with their tire psi recommendations even if it's the same psi. If you go out of factory tire size options then ya kind of have to fall back on things like the chalk tests and load inflation tables. Mind you I'm talking also about light duty trucks. Not heavy duty ones that recommend 80 psi in the rear when ya drive around unloaded all the time. Cause that's the tire put at it's max psi and There's no need to be. So that's my input. Tire types and brands in question I used to make my own discoveries on? General Tire Hts P265/75r15 SL and Dextero DAT1s 31x10.5r15 LTs Load Range C tires. One last thing to note: Yes my tire gauges are calibrated fairly well so the pressures I experimented with are accurate. They are not under or over reporting my findings.
Thanks for the video man love the channel
Putting 33 12x5 x20 on a F150 XLT my 1st time putting big tires on it.
What a beautiful truck you have!
I love it!
Thank you for your vids man. You’re helping me out greatly with my truck. Awesome info on all of your vids👍
When in doubt put em at 40 and forget it
ON GOD LMFAO
Facts. From the dealer, the front was 42, rear was 50. Aftermarket tires so door label didn't help. I said screw it, 42 it is.
I think I saw your gray dodge on 395 near Mono lake back at end of June….. or one that looked very similar.
Sadly that wasn’t me, but I’ll be up there in September! There’s more than a few similar looking builds running around now which is pretty cool honestly!
@@JustDiesels I’ll be back up near June lake in the OBS mid-September! Love it up there
Holy crap I’m running 50 psi on my 285/75/17 I need to do the chalk thing
What did you figure. Shop keeps putting mine at 40 and get bad vibration at 70mph+
As always, great info!
Excellent video on tire pressure!
Most helpful!
I run all my tires at 30psi just for daily driving, it makes for a better ride on our shitty Manitoba roads and is less harsh on the suspension.
If I'm gonna tow something heavy I will of course fill my tires more, that is why I keep a good air compressor in my truck.
I've got 33in nitto ridge grappler on my truck and the rears will never fully touch the ground. Could be at 30lbs and the outer edges still wont touch because no enough weight back there.
Sounds like a good excuse to get a metal rear bumber
Great video. You're the best. Thanks.
How do I reprogram/change psi tpms level on chevys/gmc?
Good stuff! How about some basic trailer tow hook up?
What would you want to see? Happy to make videos if people want them!
Very nice video as usual 😬👌🏻
Thank you again!
I like to know what is the right presure for a 35-12.50-18 all terrain tire in my jeep wrangler 4doors
Great vid. 🤙🏼Keeping in mind tries will heat up, depending on what you are filling the tire
with. Nitrogen, Air, etc. Thus need to account for that, also.
great video indeed. but yes the heating up on the road is what i was thinking the entire video. so how should this be accounted for?
2011 ram 2500 6.7. I run 42 front 30 rear on 37’s seems to be good.
I know you mentioned it before, but what kind/brand of wheels are they?
Thanks much!
Ty for the knowledge.
Got a question. I’ve been looking for a 5 inch straight pipe for a 06 5.9. I can’t find one anywhere, I used to see them all the time. Know where to find one?
Good information....unfortunately my 2019 Ram 2500 has a TPMS that doesn't allow me to go much less than 60psi without having the warning come on.
He explained that you can adjust the warning pressure different ways. You can also change a lot of Chrysler settings with the jscan app 20$ and a cheap obd2 Bluetooth scanner off Amazon 20$. It let's you change lots of setting on your truck.
I covered a few ways to fix that! For Ram trucks you can use Alpha OBD or the AEV Pro Cal SNAP to fix that VERY easily! www.cjcoffroad.com/products/procal-snap-for-2019-hd-ram?_pos=1&_sid=4a6701149&_ss=r
GREAT VIDEO!!!
My 07 2500 Laramie Sport 5.9 48RE is on BFG All Terrain T/A's 37 12.5 17" C load range, unloaded I run 35 front and 25 rear only put the rear to 45 or 50 psi with full load. Love the way it drives with these tires I absolutely hate the E rated tires, way to fricken rough riding and I don't need them on this truck.
Andrew, any recommendations on accurate tire gauges?
Hello which is better for a 2008 Ram 2500 4x4 a Nitto or Toyo to avoid death wooble. For instante BF Goodrich All terrain are Bad for this heavy truck
My MM3 has the ability to change TPMS.
Not directly related. I run light duty winter tires on my HD RAM 2500; not a diesel. It isn't that much heavier than a 1500 RAM 2wd regular cab. Also, mine isn't a 4X4 either. Using the tire load ratings, I can still haul 1500 lbs. before I need the load range E we use when hauling the camper. Like you we use the truck for back road exploration all winter. Up here in Canada the back roads are graded but icy. Using standard sized tires I run 32 psia all around. I get very good fuel economy, around 22 mpg Canadian which is close to 20 psi American.
Ok, my door sticker says 80 psi.. can i go 40 safely for trails??
The door sticker is for stock tires at max load. If you’re not on the stock tires and not towing or hauling max, that pressure is irrelevant. I run 35/25 empty and 18/15 off road.
What pressure do you air down to and is there a process you know of to figure out that optimum pressure??
What do you recommend for a 3rd gen? Toyo M/T 37 13.50 getting uneven wear on front outside of tires.
How much psi for my 22 inch Nitto ridge grappler???
Turned my head away for a split second from my phone and heard “ Foreskin “ 💀
Good video bro
I always thought it was a typo or auto correct mistake when I would read in forums " cummings".....this is the first time I've heard someone say it instead of cummins
How much did you spend on your suspension/lift system? I have an 03 and just looking around for what works.
Mr. Blaine would approve of this message.
great video as usual ......... I would love to know your thoughts on Cummins fuel additives for extra lubricant once in awhile (I have a 2021 6.7 3500)
Definitely worthwhile! On the 2021 trucks with the CP4, lubricity is everything for keeping that pump happy. You should run something like optilube in every single tank to prevent issues!
Thank you !
I think I know what the answer would be but would you suggest doing this with a cold or hot tire?
Cold in my opinion. Keeps the baseline more consistent. If you run 40psi cold and just drive a mile, it may go up a couple psi vs if you got on the highway for an hour it could go up double or triple that. If you filled the tire to 40psi hot it could go back down to 35ish cold and then you could be too low. I’d rather run a little higher than lower.
Edit: fill to appropriate pressure cold then drive around to heat the tire up, then do the chalk line. Just my opinions hope they help!
Nick is spot on with his advice! I like to check hot and cold to see where it’s at both ways!
Thanks for the great explanation of tire pressure! Hopefully you aren’t still in the doghouse for calling your fiancé your girlfriend. 😂
What tire pressure do you run on your 3rd Gen? I have a 2006 currently running 55 front 50 rear 325x65x18 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. After watching this, I believe I may be over inflated.
I have 42 and 36 in that truck unloaded!
Who makes a good, reliable tire guage?
My 2004 Dodge Ram 3500 DRW weighs 7760 lbs empty. I have Nitto Dura Grappler LT235/80R17 tires. I'm assuming that I divide 7760 by 4. Which gives me 1940 (weight on each tire). Then I use the Nitto Load Inflation Table. Is this correct? Based on the above calculation, I should be running 43 psi front (single), and 48 psi rear (dual). Please let me know if I did this correctly.
Remember that the weight isn’t even front to back though. The front weight on the truck is significantly higher than the back. My suggestion is to put the truck at 48psi, and then go do the chalk line test. Your rear pressures on a dually will be surprisingly low unloaded (since you distribute weight over 4 tires) loaded rear pressures will be what the max load sidewall pressure states though.
So what would you run your 3rd gen tire pressure's at? Thanks
He said..45/40
@@cencoast_7.340 Yea u can't hear, he said newer trucks 45/40. He never said what he runs his 3rd gen at.
My third gen is 43ish front and 37ish rear typically!
@@JustDiesels Thanks!
Why more pressure in the front and not the rear ?
God your videos are so good man. I wish you made more videos. Also for educational purposes I’d like for you to have a second gen p pump truck 😉
I’d like for me to have one too! If a few people buy shirts maybe I can get one haha
Please get one. I’d love to see one on the channel
are you going to burn more fuel with lower pressures?
Maybe but it might not be noticeable and it’s worth the ride quality to me.
It’s a very minimal difference. Experiment on your truck, but I think you’ll find that the improved ride quality etc is well worth the small drop in economy!
I just wanna get rid of my low tire light from my aftermarket
I walked through a few methods for how to do that in the video!
Are you on the central cal coast? Slo paso area? Great vid
I don't think so. Looks like SoCal.
Yep, So Cal!
Nice, thanks
AH! Interesting 👍
😂👍
Dividing the Max payload of the tire by the Max pressure of the tire will give you pounds per PSI.
That would put my tires at 22.5 PSI 🤷
@@hickboy3067That may be correct if you have larger tires or a light truck. Let me explain the math a little more using rough estimates of my setup. 3500 lbs max payload ÷ 80 psi = 43.75 pounds per psi. 7000 lb truck ÷ 4 = 1750 per wheel without using scales just for the example. 1750 ÷ 43.75 = 40 psi per tire if my setup was actually a perfect 50/50 weight
My door jamb on my 2001 Tacoma says 26 psi 🤣
Aren't you not supposed to go below 35 psi in tires like this
That is actually false! Please see page 12 for the load inflation table for a Toyo MT. The safe low pressure limit depends entirely on the weight that’s on the tire: www.toyotires.com/media/3729/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
Huh, I've always heard different
@@JustDiesels where do I find a load inflation table for pressures under 35 psi?
I need those rims. What kind of rims are those?
Here’s a link! www.cjcoffroad.com/products/cjc-edition-ram-trail-ready-20-x-9-5-simulated-beadlock-wheel
What rims are those
What tire preasure do you run in the obs unloaded?
32 front and 25 rear in a desperate attempt to improve the ride quality haha
I’ve heard E rating shouldn’t go below 50 psi. Not true?
Not true at all as a blanket statement. It all depends on the exact tire, and how much weight is on it.
Mine are vibrating like crazy at 40
Buying massive load capacity trucks will ride brutally if you don't put a load weight onto them . Buy a light duty truck and enjoy. I had a friend who bought a 1978 Ford F-150 two wheel drive that had a real nice ride.
thanks...
What about for running stretched tires ??
Chalk test
Why would you run lower pressure in the rear and higher in front wouldn’t she want to do opposite of that to increase the steering stability?
I’ll see you can call any of these companies like NIto and Toyo And they should be able to give you a good estimate based on your vehicle weight.
You run lower in the rear because an empty truck bed weighs thousands of pounds less than the front end that has an engine!
@@JustDiesels nooks and crannies
👍🏻
My super duty has 33x12.5x17. recommended 75psi but the ride is terrible and hard to keep on the road. Swaying is terrible at 75psi. I do tow/haul about 500-800 lbs and tow a 9000lb trailer a few times a year. I just keep 50lbs front and rear and don't over think it! I have never had a problem. All that physics, quantum mechanics, astrology is a bunch of crap. Just use common sense and go with it.
The freaking tire installer even bases it off the door sticker!! I tell them it's irrelevant!
They always do! They’ll throw 80 psi in a tire with a max of 50! Haha
Must be les schwab lol
You should ALWAYS run the psi that is on the label of your door. Tire size doesn't matter at all, the truck is still going to put the same amount of weight when empty and when hauling. I have a 2006 2500 mega cab and there is a psi table for when you're empty or loaded, and I've been following that psi list with my 35x12.50R20's and I haven't had a single uneven wear pattern
That could not be more false. All tires require completely different pressures. It all depends on the load inflation table of the exact tire you’re running.
Are you saying that the door sticker applies ONLY to the OEM tires that came with truck with regard to PSI?